Chip with simple program for Toy

Ian Field brought next idea :
"BeeJ" <nospam@spamnot.com> wrote in message
news:kl7pg9$n7f$1@speranza.aioe.org...
Sure, if the OP really wants a *white* strobe.

I think using bright blue makes it a little easier than white to pickup
the
mark if the surface is small - blue makes little details stand out more.
High
speed license plate readers are usually lit with blue(ish) - looks like
almost
half the way to UV even. So, in reality perhaps OP might even benefit from
using a color strobe rather than a white strobe.

And tri-color would give any color the op wanted.

there is one tiny problem - the 3 LED chips can't physically occupy exactly
the same place inside the encapsulation, at a distance this is not
significant, but at close quarters there will be some divergence of the
individual beams - there will be at least some colour fringing round the
edges.
I could live with that. Where can I buy a complete unit?
 
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 02:18:02 +0000, passerby
<f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_911@example.com> wrote:

responding to
http://www.electrondepot.com/electronics/white-lede-strobe-circuit-link-120366-.htm
, passerby wrote:
spamnot wrote:

How about R G & B Leds in triads? Are there not some that include
all
three together in one package? Steerable color types.


Sure, if the OP really wants a *white* strobe. I was just curious what makes
white color so special for a strobe that it cannot be a coherent bright flash
of any color, really. Red may be a little difficult to pick up on a black
background but it all depends on the brightness. Besides, one can put a nice
reflective stripe on the spindle (I've a pen with silver acrylic paint - marks
anything and is reflective like hell) and either lower the required brightness
or increase the frequency of the flashes - whatever is required for the
application.

I think using bright blue makes it a little easier than white to pickup the
mark if the surface is small - blue makes little details stand out more. High
speed license plate readers are usually lit with blue(ish) - looks like almost
half the way to UV even. So, in reality perhaps OP might even benefit from
using a color strobe rather than a white strobe.
I built a strobe like that. We were making these strobes to go on
automobile wheel hubs (a stupid idea IMO, but what the customer
wanted). The idea was to give the spokes some forward/reverse
appearance whilst driving down the street (this is the Fast and
Furious mind set)...

The white leds show quite a bit of "tailing" when observed on a scope
via a photo diode, and didn't have the sharp definition of a xenon
strobe (blurry spokes).

Xenon was out of the question for size and ruggedness, but a RGB led
in a "Piranha" style package worked well (and added a whole new level
of complexity since the customer now wanted fading colors or the
ability to match the color scheme of the F&F decor).

I thought blue-white had the greatest impact.
 
"BeeJ" <spamnot@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:kl9uro$s6i$1@speranza.aioe.org...
Ian Field brought next idea :

"BeeJ" <nospam@spamnot.com> wrote in message
news:kl7pg9$n7f$1@speranza.aioe.org...
Sure, if the OP really wants a *white* strobe.

I think using bright blue makes it a little easier than white to pickup
the
mark if the surface is small - blue makes little details stand out more.
High
speed license plate readers are usually lit with blue(ish) - looks like
almost
half the way to UV even. So, in reality perhaps OP might even benefit
from
using a color strobe rather than a white strobe.

And tri-color would give any color the op wanted.

there is one tiny problem - the 3 LED chips can't physically occupy
exactly the same place inside the encapsulation, at a distance this is
not significant, but at close quarters there will be some divergence of
the individual beams - there will be at least some colour fringing round
the edges.

I could live with that. Where can I buy a complete unit?
There is yet another tiny problem - the 3 LEDs require different Vf each,
the red & green are fairly close but the blue is almost double. You can't
just strap the 3 in parallel.

The first place I'd look is probably Farnell, but outlets may be different
where you are.
 
On Mon, May 06, 2013 at 02:35:52PM -0500, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Mon, 06 May 2013 12:01:44 -0400, Uncle Steve wrote:

Back again for some more abuse.

I'm building a 12V battery charger that will be controlled by a small
low-power microcontroller. I've not yet hooked up the microcontroller,
but most of the code is written and I'm trying to finalize the charger
electronics before I hook it up.

The circuit is very simple. An 18V 2A transformer, a bridge rectifier,
and filter capacitor feeds a main power rail. A 5V regulator produces a
few mA for the microcontroller, which I won't show here. The charger is
more or less as follows, though I will leave out the resistor/divider
taps which hook up to the ADC channels on the micro.


+18VDC ---------------------------+
Q1 c e | D1 R1
-----\_/--------->|----\/\/\--------+12(batt)
b| |
+------+ |
| | +--+----------+
/ Q2 e\_/c |
R1 \ |b |
/ | e |c Q3
\ +--\/\/\------\_/
| R2 |b
| | R3 SW1
LED1 \_/ +--\/\/\-- \-- +5V
---
|
|
GND --------------+------------------------------------ GND(batt)


Q1 - MJE3055
D1 - 1N4004
R1 - .5 5W

Q2 - BC557
R2 - 200K

Q3 - 2N2222
R3 - 1K


The microcontroller will strobe R3 with PCM at about 488HZ with a duty
cycle dependant on the charge profile. R1 is the sense resistor and
permits measuring instantaneous charge current. I've got the battery
attached and can watch the voltage rise (and settle) as I manually
engage a switch attached as shown. The battery voltage as it came from
Wallmart was about 12.7V. Charge current with this circuit is 1.4A at
this point in its charge cycle. The heat-sink gets rather warm, but it
isn't all that big and I'm going to target 3 or 4A as the peak charge
current so I'll probably substitute a TO-3 package with a much beefier
heat-sink when I put the project in an enclosure.

So far, so good. The output of Q1 shows .6V ripple. Attaching my scope
to the base of Q1 shows an idle (SW off) voltage of 16mV and a 120Hz
signal with a 70mVpp with a duty cycle of 17%. I'm not exactly sure
where this signal is coming from, although its frequency suggests a
causal relationship with the AC mains. There does not appear to be any
ripple on the 5V rail, but my scope isn't good enough to really zoom in
on it.

The other side of the coin is that the Q2/Q3 network seems to be rather
sensitive. When I pass my hand over the breadboard the distortion
described above doubles and I can get an amplitude of 1V on that
distortion by standing up suddenly while sitting in front of the idle
circuit. It is difficult to say what is happening because I can double
the distortion by attaching the scope to a wall-wart USB charger, and I
know I haven't yet calibrated the scope all that well either. (Scope
shows 4.5V from the 5V regulator.) But the fact that I can affect the
circuit just by moving things in the general vicinity is, um, rather
shocking.

Besides installing the circuit in a metal case, are there any easy
solutions to fix that 16mV idle voltage? Should I just change the BC557
to a 2n2222 and work out how many of what kind of resistors I need to
supply the 3055 with the mA it needs to dump several amps into the
battery? I like this version because it is easy to set up and has a low
part count, but I'd really like to get rid of the noise and the
sensitivity to movement.

Start a new thread! This isn't even remotely related to fan motors!
Sorry. My newsreader crashes when I 'post' so I have to reply to
something and then delete the references header, which I forgot to do
in this case. What happens next is dependant on the newsreader you
use.


Regards,

Uncle Steve

--
There should be a special word in the English language to identify
people who create problems and then turn around and offer up their own
tailor-made bogus non-solutions designed to completely avoid the root
causes of the situation under consideration. 'Traitor' might be a
good choice, but lacks the requisite specificity. One of the problems
with contemporary English is it lacks many such words that would
otherwise categorically identify certain kinds of person, place, or
thing -- making it difficult or impossible to think analytically about
such objects. These shortcomings of the English lexicon are
representative of Orwellian linguistics at work in the real world.
 
On Mon, May 06, 2013 at 12:01:44PM -0400, Uncle Steve wrote:
Back again for some more abuse.

I'm building a 12V battery charger that will be controlled by a small
low-power microcontroller. I've not yet hooked up the
microcontroller, but most of the code is written and I'm trying to
finalize the charger electronics before I hook it up.

The circuit is very simple. An 18V 2A transformer, a bridge
rectifier, and filter capacitor feeds a main power rail. A 5V
regulator produces a few mA for the microcontroller, which I won't show
here. The charger is more or less as follows, though I will leave out
the resistor/divider taps which hook up to the ADC channels on the
micro.


+18VDC ---------------------------+
Q1 c e | D1 R1
-----\_/--------->|----\/\/\--------+12(batt)
b| |
+------+ |
| | +--+----------+
/ Q2 e\_/c |
R4 \ |b |
/ | e |c Q3
\ +--\/\/\------\_/
| R2 |b
| | R3 SW1
LED1 \_/ +--\/\/\-- \-- +5V
---
|
|
GND --------------+------------------------------------ GND(batt)


Q1 - MJE3055
D1 - 1N4004
R1 - .5 5W

Q2 - BC557
R2 - 200K

Q3 - 2N2222
R3 - 1K
R4 - 2k

The microcontroller will strobe R3 with PCM at about 488HZ with a duty
cycle dependant on the charge profile. R1 is the sense resistor and
permits measuring instantaneous charge current. I've got the battery
attached and can watch the voltage rise (and settle) as I manually
engage a switch attached as shown. The battery voltage as it came
from Wallmart was about 12.7V. Charge current with this circuit
is 1.4A at this point in its charge cycle. The heat-sink gets rather
warm, but it isn't all that big and I'm going to target 3 or 4A as the
peak charge current so I'll probably substitute a TO-3 package with a
much beefier heat-sink when I put the project in an enclosure.

So far, so good. The output of Q1 shows .6V ripple. Attaching my
scope to the base of Q1 shows an idle (SW off) voltage of 16mV and a
120Hz signal with a 70mVpp with a duty cycle of 17%. I'm not exactly
sure where this signal is coming from, although its frequency suggests
a causal relationship with the AC mains. There does not appear to be
any ripple on the 5V rail, but my scope isn't good enough to really
zoom in on it.

The other side of the coin is that the Q2/Q3 network seems to be
rather sensitive. When I pass my hand over the breadboard the
distortion described above doubles and I can get an amplitude of 1V on
that distortion by standing up suddenly while sitting in front of the
idle circuit. It is difficult to say what is happening because I can
double the distortion by attaching the scope to a wall-wart USB
charger, and I know I haven't yet calibrated the scope all that well
either. (Scope shows 4.5V from the 5V regulator.) But the fact
that I can affect the circuit just by moving things in the general
vicinity is, um, rather shocking.

Besides installing the circuit in a metal case, are there any easy
solutions to fix that 16mV idle voltage? Should I just change the
BC557 to a 2n2222 and work out how many of what kind of resistors I
need to supply the 3055 with the mA it needs to dump several amps into
the battery? I like this version because it is easy to set up and has
a low part count, but I'd really like to get rid of the noise and the
sensitivity to movement.
As suggested, I moved this out of the existing thread. It was an
mistake that I did not remove the references header.

At any rate, I set up a separate pair of 2n2222, 10K resistor, and
BC557 similar to the input stage above as well as a LED. Then I
connected a small spool of insulated wire to the base of the 2n2222
and then let it out a couple of feet until the LED stayed onish without
my hands being near the device.

The result is a strong 6-7MHz signal for a bunch of cycles and then
some dead time. It looks like there could be some FM in there, and on
the high part of the cycle there appears to be an additional small
signal, but I can't resolve any detail with my equipment.

If I hold the spool in my hand the amount of on time changes
considerably depending how much of my hand is in contact with the
plastic and insulation. With palm open, there is one rise/fall cycle
at about 6.5MHz when my hand is about 6in from the wire. As my hand
gets closer, a second peak appears and so on until there is a train of
several dozen cycles at or near the measured frequency.

Any idea what the hell that signal might be?


Regards,

Uncle Steve

--
There should be a special word in the English language to identify
people who create problems and then turn around and offer up their own
tailor-made bogus non-solutions designed to completely avoid the root
causes of the situation under consideration. 'Traitor' might be a
good choice, but lacks the requisite specificity. One of the problems
with contemporary English is it lacks many such words that would
otherwise categorically identify certain kinds of person, place, or
thing -- making it difficult or impossible to think analytically about
such objects. These shortcomings of the English lexicon are
representative of Orwellian linguistics at work in the real world.
 
On 5/6/2013 3:01 PM, Uncle Steve wrote:
On Mon, May 06, 2013 at 02:35:52PM -0500, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Mon, 06 May 2013 12:01:44 -0400, Uncle Steve wrote:

Back again for some more abuse.

I'm building a 12V battery charger that will be controlled by a small
low-power microcontroller. I've not yet hooked up the microcontroller,
but most of the code is written and I'm trying to finalize the charger
electronics before I hook it up.

The circuit is very simple. An 18V 2A transformer, a bridge rectifier,
and filter capacitor feeds a main power rail. A 5V regulator produces a
few mA for the microcontroller, which I won't show here. The charger is
more or less as follows, though I will leave out the resistor/divider
taps which hook up to the ADC channels on the micro.


+18VDC ---------------------------+
Q1 c e | D1 R1
-----\_/--------->|----\/\/\--------+12(batt)
b| |
+------+ |
| | +--+----------+
/ Q2 e\_/c |
R1 \ |b |
/ | e |c Q3
\ +--\/\/\------\_/
| R2 |b
| | R3 SW1
LED1 \_/ +--\/\/\-- \-- +5V
---
|
|
GND --------------+------------------------------------ GND(batt)


Q1 - MJE3055
D1 - 1N4004
R1 - .5 5W

Q2 - BC557
R2 - 200K

Q3 - 2N2222
R3 - 1K


The microcontroller will strobe R3 with PCM at about 488HZ with a duty
cycle dependant on the charge profile. R1 is the sense resistor and
permits measuring instantaneous charge current. I've got the battery
attached and can watch the voltage rise (and settle) as I manually
engage a switch attached as shown. The battery voltage as it came from
Wallmart was about 12.7V. Charge current with this circuit is 1.4A at
this point in its charge cycle. The heat-sink gets rather warm, but it
isn't all that big and I'm going to target 3 or 4A as the peak charge
current so I'll probably substitute a TO-3 package with a much beefier
heat-sink when I put the project in an enclosure.

So far, so good. The output of Q1 shows .6V ripple. Attaching my scope
to the base of Q1 shows an idle (SW off) voltage of 16mV and a 120Hz
signal with a 70mVpp with a duty cycle of 17%. I'm not exactly sure
where this signal is coming from, although its frequency suggests a
causal relationship with the AC mains. There does not appear to be any
ripple on the 5V rail, but my scope isn't good enough to really zoom in
on it.

The other side of the coin is that the Q2/Q3 network seems to be rather
sensitive. When I pass my hand over the breadboard the distortion
described above doubles and I can get an amplitude of 1V on that
distortion by standing up suddenly while sitting in front of the idle
circuit. It is difficult to say what is happening because I can double
the distortion by attaching the scope to a wall-wart USB charger, and I
know I haven't yet calibrated the scope all that well either. (Scope
shows 4.5V from the 5V regulator.) But the fact that I can affect the
circuit just by moving things in the general vicinity is, um, rather
shocking.

Besides installing the circuit in a metal case, are there any easy
solutions to fix that 16mV idle voltage? Should I just change the BC557
to a 2n2222 and work out how many of what kind of resistors I need to
supply the 3055 with the mA it needs to dump several amps into the
battery? I like this version because it is easy to set up and has a low
part count, but I'd really like to get rid of the noise and the
sensitivity to movement.

Start a new thread! This isn't even remotely related to fan motors!

Sorry. My newsreader crashes when I 'post' so I have to
Fix your newsreader!
 
On Mon, 06 May 2013 16:15:36 -0400, Uncle Steve wrote:

On Mon, May 06, 2013 at 12:01:44PM -0400, Uncle Steve wrote:
Back again for some more abuse.

I'm building a 12V battery charger that will be controlled by a small
low-power microcontroller. I've not yet hooked up the microcontroller,
but most of the code is written and I'm trying to finalize the charger
electronics before I hook it up.

The circuit is very simple. An 18V 2A transformer, a bridge rectifier,
and filter capacitor feeds a main power rail. A 5V regulator produces
a few mA for the microcontroller, which I won't show here. The charger
is more or less as follows, though I will leave out the
resistor/divider taps which hook up to the ADC channels on the micro.


+18VDC ---------------------------+
Q1 c e | D1 R1
-----\_/--------->|----\/\/\--------+12(batt)
b| |
+------+ |
| | +--+----------+
/ Q2 e\_/c |
R4 \ |b |
/ | e |c Q3
\ +--\/\/\------\_/
| R2 |b
| | R3 SW1
LED1 \_/ +--\/\/\-- \-- +5V
---
|
|
GND --------------+------------------------------------ GND(batt)


Q1 - MJE3055
D1 - 1N4004
R1 - .5 5W

Q2 - BC557
R2 - 200K

Q3 - 2N2222
R3 - 1K
R4 - 2k

The microcontroller will strobe R3 with PCM at about 488HZ with a duty
cycle dependant on the charge profile. R1 is the sense resistor and
permits measuring instantaneous charge current. I've got the battery
attached and can watch the voltage rise (and settle) as I manually
engage a switch attached as shown. The battery voltage as it came from
Wallmart was about 12.7V. Charge current with this circuit is 1.4A at
this point in its charge cycle. The heat-sink gets rather warm, but it
isn't all that big and I'm going to target 3 or 4A as the peak charge
current so I'll probably substitute a TO-3 package with a much beefier
heat-sink when I put the project in an enclosure.

So far, so good. The output of Q1 shows .6V ripple. Attaching my
scope to the base of Q1 shows an idle (SW off) voltage of 16mV and a
120Hz signal with a 70mVpp with a duty cycle of 17%. I'm not exactly
sure where this signal is coming from, although its frequency suggests
a causal relationship with the AC mains. There does not appear to be
any ripple on the 5V rail, but my scope isn't good enough to really
zoom in on it.

The other side of the coin is that the Q2/Q3 network seems to be rather
sensitive. When I pass my hand over the breadboard the distortion
described above doubles and I can get an amplitude of 1V on that
distortion by standing up suddenly while sitting in front of the idle
circuit. It is difficult to say what is happening because I can double
the distortion by attaching the scope to a wall-wart USB charger, and I
know I haven't yet calibrated the scope all that well either. (Scope
shows 4.5V from the 5V regulator.) But the fact that I can affect the
circuit just by moving things in the general vicinity is, um, rather
shocking.

Besides installing the circuit in a metal case, are there any easy
solutions to fix that 16mV idle voltage? Should I just change the
BC557 to a 2n2222 and work out how many of what kind of resistors I
need to supply the 3055 with the mA it needs to dump several amps into
the battery? I like this version because it is easy to set up and has
a low part count, but I'd really like to get rid of the noise and the
sensitivity to movement.

As suggested, I moved this out of the existing thread. It was an
mistake that I did not remove the references header.

At any rate, I set up a separate pair of 2n2222, 10K resistor, and BC557
similar to the input stage above as well as a LED. Then I connected a
small spool of insulated wire to the base of the 2n2222 and then let it
out a couple of feet until the LED stayed onish without my hands being
near the device.

The result is a strong 6-7MHz signal for a bunch of cycles and then some
dead time. It looks like there could be some FM in there, and on the
high part of the cycle there appears to be an additional small signal,
but I can't resolve any detail with my equipment.

If I hold the spool in my hand the amount of on time changes
considerably depending how much of my hand is in contact with the
plastic and insulation. With palm open, there is one rise/fall cycle at
about 6.5MHz when my hand is about 6in from the wire. As my hand gets
closer, a second peak appears and so on until there is a train of
several dozen cycles at or near the measured frequency.

Any idea what the hell that signal might be?


Regards,

Uncle Steve
I'm not making sense of your schematic. If Q2 is a PNP it should have
its emitter to +18V and its collector to the base of Q1. (Q1 should have
its collector _connected_!!). Q3 is configured to deliver current to the
base of Q2, but it needs to pull current -- ?!?!?!?!

Could you be showing the emitters and collectors of Q2 and Q3 reversed?

If it's doing anything at all (which presumably it is) then amongst your
various transistors you have tons of uncontrolled gain, so it's not
surprising that its oscillating or doing other weird stuff.

What's your goal? A charge current that's proportional to the voltage at
the SW1 end of R3?

I'd have to think about how to take that collection of transistors and
make a stable circuit out of it, but if you're really building to that
schematic then I suspect that you need to make some changes!

Note that if you're charging a lead-acid battery (gel or flood) the ideal
charge profile is to limit both voltage and current. Voltage is limited
to some magic number (which I can never remember -- look it up), and
current is limited either by the charger's capabilities or the
battery's. When the charge of the battery is low it accepts charge at
the constant current, but then as it charges you must drop the current to
hold the voltage constant.

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com
 
On Mon, May 06, 2013 at 03:38:19PM -0500, amdx wrote:
On 5/6/2013 3:01 PM, Uncle Steve wrote:
Sorry. My newsreader crashes when I 'post' so I have to

Fix your newsreader!
I started doing that, but the path I went down is superficially
similar to Larry Wall's story and I fear it will be a while yet before
I have running code.


Regards,

Uncle Steve

--
There should be a special word in the English language to identify
people who create problems and then turn around and offer up their own
tailor-made bogus non-solutions designed to completely avoid the root
causes of the situation under consideration. 'Traitor' might be a
good choice, but lacks the requisite specificity. One of the problems
with contemporary English is it lacks many such words that would
otherwise categorically identify certain kinds of person, place, or
thing -- making it difficult or impossible to think analytically about
such objects. These shortcomings of the English lexicon are
representative of Orwellian linguistics at work in the real world.
 
On Mon, May 06, 2013 at 03:40:00PM -0500, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Mon, 06 May 2013 16:15:36 -0400, Uncle Steve wrote:

On Mon, May 06, 2013 at 12:01:44PM -0400, Uncle Steve wrote:
Back again for some more abuse.

I'm building a 12V battery charger that will be controlled by a small
low-power microcontroller. I've not yet hooked up the microcontroller,
but most of the code is written and I'm trying to finalize the charger
electronics before I hook it up.

The circuit is very simple. An 18V 2A transformer, a bridge rectifier,
and filter capacitor feeds a main power rail. A 5V regulator produces
a few mA for the microcontroller, which I won't show here. The charger
is more or less as follows, though I will leave out the
resistor/divider taps which hook up to the ADC channels on the micro.


+18VDC ---------------------------+
Q1 c e | D1 R1
-----\_/--------->|----\/\/\--------+12(batt)
b| |
+------+ |
| | +--+----------+
/ Q2 e\_/c |
R4 \ |b |
/ | e |c Q3
\ +--\/\/\------\_/
| R2 |b
| | R3 SW1
LED1 \_/ +--\/\/\-- \-- +5V
---
|
|
GND --------------+------------------------------------ GND(batt)


Q1 - MJE3055
D1 - 1N4004
R1 - .5 5W

Q2 - BC557
R2 - 200K

Q3 - 2N2222
R3 - 1K
R4 - 2k

The microcontroller will strobe R3 with PCM at about 488HZ with a duty
cycle dependant on the charge profile. R1 is the sense resistor and
permits measuring instantaneous charge current. I've got the battery
attached and can watch the voltage rise (and settle) as I manually
engage a switch attached as shown. The battery voltage as it came from
Wallmart was about 12.7V. Charge current with this circuit is 1.4A at
this point in its charge cycle. The heat-sink gets rather warm, but it
isn't all that big and I'm going to target 3 or 4A as the peak charge
current so I'll probably substitute a TO-3 package with a much beefier
heat-sink when I put the project in an enclosure.

So far, so good. The output of Q1 shows .6V ripple. Attaching my
scope to the base of Q1 shows an idle (SW off) voltage of 16mV and a
120Hz signal with a 70mVpp with a duty cycle of 17%. I'm not exactly
sure where this signal is coming from, although its frequency suggests
a causal relationship with the AC mains. There does not appear to be
any ripple on the 5V rail, but my scope isn't good enough to really
zoom in on it.

The other side of the coin is that the Q2/Q3 network seems to be rather
sensitive. When I pass my hand over the breadboard the distortion
described above doubles and I can get an amplitude of 1V on that
distortion by standing up suddenly while sitting in front of the idle
circuit. It is difficult to say what is happening because I can double
the distortion by attaching the scope to a wall-wart USB charger, and I
know I haven't yet calibrated the scope all that well either. (Scope
shows 4.5V from the 5V regulator.) But the fact that I can affect the
circuit just by moving things in the general vicinity is, um, rather
shocking.

Besides installing the circuit in a metal case, are there any easy
solutions to fix that 16mV idle voltage? Should I just change the
BC557 to a 2n2222 and work out how many of what kind of resistors I
need to supply the 3055 with the mA it needs to dump several amps into
the battery? I like this version because it is easy to set up and has
a low part count, but I'd really like to get rid of the noise and the
sensitivity to movement.

As suggested, I moved this out of the existing thread. It was an
mistake that I did not remove the references header.

At any rate, I set up a separate pair of 2n2222, 10K resistor, and BC557
similar to the input stage above as well as a LED. Then I connected a
small spool of insulated wire to the base of the 2n2222 and then let it
out a couple of feet until the LED stayed onish without my hands being
near the device.

The result is a strong 6-7MHz signal for a bunch of cycles and then some
dead time. It looks like there could be some FM in there, and on the
high part of the cycle there appears to be an additional small signal,
but I can't resolve any detail with my equipment.

If I hold the spool in my hand the amount of on time changes
considerably depending how much of my hand is in contact with the
plastic and insulation. With palm open, there is one rise/fall cycle at
about 6.5MHz when my hand is about 6in from the wire. As my hand gets
closer, a second peak appears and so on until there is a train of
several dozen cycles at or near the measured frequency.

Any idea what the hell that signal might be?


Regards,

Uncle Steve

I'm not making sense of your schematic. If Q2 is a PNP it should have
its emitter to +18V and its collector to the base of Q1. (Q1 should have
its collector _connected_!!). Q3 is configured to deliver current to the
base of Q2, but it needs to pull current -- ?!?!?!?!

Could you be showing the emitters and collectors of Q2 and Q3 reversed?
I don't think so. The arrangement is described as a Sziklai Pair, and
is described at the following URL:

http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/TheTransistorAmplifier/TheTransistorAmplifier-P1.html#THEDARLINGTON

If it's doing anything at all (which presumably it is) then amongst your
various transistors you have tons of uncontrolled gain, so it's not
surprising that its oscillating or doing other weird stuff.

What's your goal? A charge current that's proportional to the voltage at
the SW1 end of R3?
SW1 is a stand in for the TTL level output from a microcontroller pin
and will operate at 488Hz PWM as described above.

I'd have to think about how to take that collection of transistors and
make a stable circuit out of it, but if you're really building to that
schematic then I suspect that you need to make some changes!
The oscillation showing up at the base of Q1 may be the result of some
sort of capacitance issue with Q2/Q3. I fiddled with a few small
ceramic capacitors in a naive fashion, but I did not accomplish
anything other than destroying a 2n2222. I simply haven't
internalized enough information about how these things operate to
figure out what I should do to eliminate the distortion.

Note that if you're charging a lead-acid battery (gel or flood) the ideal
charge profile is to limit both voltage and current. Voltage is limited
to some magic number (which I can never remember -- look it up), and
current is limited either by the charger's capabilities or the
battery's. When the charge of the battery is low it accepts charge at
the constant current, but then as it charges you must drop the current to
hold the voltage constant.
I understand that. The preliminary figures I have suggest that the
charge voltage should be 13.8V and the float voltage 13.5V.

The current strategy I'm working on will limit the average current
over time with PWM, measuring instantaneous current when Q1 is on to
drive a feedback loop to set PWM duty-cycle. I'll be reading supply
voltage, and voltage at either side of the .5 Ohm sense resister at
various times throughout the PWM cycle. The software will do ADC at
about 125KHz so there's lots of room to average things nicely. I
assume there's no real problem with allowing current to spike at short
intervals if the battery naturally wants more amps than my PS will
supply on a continual basis. I may be wrong, and it may be a simple
matter to install a load resistor with the sense resistor. I'm still
in larval stage so this stuff is still a little mysterious.


Regards,

Uncle Steve

--
There should be a special word in the English language to identify
people who create problems and then turn around and offer up their own
tailor-made bogus non-solutions designed to completely avoid the root
causes of the situation under consideration. 'Traitor' might be a
good choice, but lacks the requisite specificity. One of the problems
with contemporary English is it lacks many such words that would
otherwise categorically identify certain kinds of person, place, or
thing -- making it difficult or impossible to think analytically about
such objects. These shortcomings of the English lexicon are
representative of Orwellian linguistics at work in the real world.
 
On Mon, 06 May 2013 18:04:51 -0400, Uncle Steve wrote:

On Mon, May 06, 2013 at 03:40:00PM -0500, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Mon, 06 May 2013 16:15:36 -0400, Uncle Steve wrote:

On Mon, May 06, 2013 at 12:01:44PM -0400, Uncle Steve wrote:
Back again for some more abuse.

I'm building a 12V battery charger that will be controlled by a
small low-power microcontroller. I've not yet hooked up the
microcontroller, but most of the code is written and I'm trying to
finalize the charger electronics before I hook it up.

The circuit is very simple. An 18V 2A transformer, a bridge
rectifier, and filter capacitor feeds a main power rail. A 5V
regulator produces a few mA for the microcontroller, which I won't
show here. The charger is more or less as follows, though I will
leave out the resistor/divider taps which hook up to the ADC
channels on the micro.


+18VDC ---------------------------+
Q1 c e | D1 R1
-----\_/--------->|----\/\/\--------+12(batt)
b| |
+------+ |
| | +--+----------+
/ Q2 e\_/c |
R4 \ |b |
/ | e |c Q3
\ +--\/\/\------\_/
| R2 |b
| | R3 SW1
LED1 \_/ +--\/\/\-- \-- +5V
---
|
|
GND --------------+------------------------------------
GND(batt)


Q1 - MJE3055
D1 - 1N4004
R1 - .5 5W

Q2 - BC557
R2 - 200K

Q3 - 2N2222
R3 - 1K
R4 - 2k

The microcontroller will strobe R3 with PCM at about 488HZ with a
duty cycle dependant on the charge profile. R1 is the sense
resistor and permits measuring instantaneous charge current. I've
got the battery attached and can watch the voltage rise (and settle)
as I manually engage a switch attached as shown. The battery
voltage as it came from Wallmart was about 12.7V. Charge current
with this circuit is 1.4A at this point in its charge cycle. The
heat-sink gets rather warm, but it isn't all that big and I'm going
to target 3 or 4A as the peak charge current so I'll probably
substitute a TO-3 package with a much beefier heat-sink when I put
the project in an enclosure.

So far, so good. The output of Q1 shows .6V ripple. Attaching my
scope to the base of Q1 shows an idle (SW off) voltage of 16mV and a
120Hz signal with a 70mVpp with a duty cycle of 17%. I'm not
exactly sure where this signal is coming from, although its
frequency suggests a causal relationship with the AC mains. There
does not appear to be any ripple on the 5V rail, but my scope isn't
good enough to really zoom in on it.

The other side of the coin is that the Q2/Q3 network seems to be
rather sensitive. When I pass my hand over the breadboard the
distortion described above doubles and I can get an amplitude of 1V
on that distortion by standing up suddenly while sitting in front of
the idle circuit. It is difficult to say what is happening because
I can double the distortion by attaching the scope to a wall-wart
USB charger, and I know I haven't yet calibrated the scope all that
well either. (Scope shows 4.5V from the 5V regulator.) But the
fact that I can affect the circuit just by moving things in the
general vicinity is, um, rather shocking.

Besides installing the circuit in a metal case, are there any easy
solutions to fix that 16mV idle voltage? Should I just change the
BC557 to a 2n2222 and work out how many of what kind of resistors I
need to supply the 3055 with the mA it needs to dump several amps
into the battery? I like this version because it is easy to set up
and has a low part count, but I'd really like to get rid of the
noise and the sensitivity to movement.

As suggested, I moved this out of the existing thread. It was an
mistake that I did not remove the references header.

At any rate, I set up a separate pair of 2n2222, 10K resistor, and
BC557 similar to the input stage above as well as a LED. Then I
connected a small spool of insulated wire to the base of the 2n2222
and then let it out a couple of feet until the LED stayed onish
without my hands being near the device.

The result is a strong 6-7MHz signal for a bunch of cycles and then
some dead time. It looks like there could be some FM in there, and
on the high part of the cycle there appears to be an additional small
signal, but I can't resolve any detail with my equipment.

If I hold the spool in my hand the amount of on time changes
considerably depending how much of my hand is in contact with the
plastic and insulation. With palm open, there is one rise/fall cycle
at about 6.5MHz when my hand is about 6in from the wire. As my hand
gets closer, a second peak appears and so on until there is a train
of several dozen cycles at or near the measured frequency.

Any idea what the hell that signal might be?


Regards,

Uncle Steve

I'm not making sense of your schematic. If Q2 is a PNP it should have
its emitter to +18V and its collector to the base of Q1. (Q1 should
have its collector _connected_!!). Q3 is configured to deliver current
to the base of Q2, but it needs to pull current -- ?!?!?!?!

Could you be showing the emitters and collectors of Q2 and Q3 reversed?

I don't think so. The arrangement is described as a Sziklai Pair, and
is described at the following URL:

http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/TheTransistorAmplifier/
TheTransistorAmplifier-P1.html#THEDARLINGTON

If it's doing anything at all (which presumably it is) then amongst
your various transistors you have tons of uncontrolled gain, so it's
not surprising that its oscillating or doing other weird stuff.

What's your goal? A charge current that's proportional to the voltage
at the SW1 end of R3?

SW1 is a stand in for the TTL level output from a microcontroller pin
and will operate at 488Hz PWM as described above.

I'd have to think about how to take that collection of transistors and
make a stable circuit out of it, but if you're really building to that
schematic then I suspect that you need to make some changes!

The oscillation showing up at the base of Q1 may be the result of some
sort of capacitance issue with Q2/Q3. I fiddled with a few small
ceramic capacitors in a naive fashion, but I did not accomplish anything
other than destroying a 2n2222. I simply haven't internalized enough
information about how these things operate to figure out what I should
do to eliminate the distortion.

Note that if you're charging a lead-acid battery (gel or flood) the
ideal charge profile is to limit both voltage and current. Voltage is
limited to some magic number (which I can never remember -- look it
up), and current is limited either by the charger's capabilities or the
battery's. When the charge of the battery is low it accepts charge at
the constant current, but then as it charges you must drop the current
to hold the voltage constant.

I understand that. The preliminary figures I have suggest that the
charge voltage should be 13.8V and the float voltage 13.5V.

The current strategy I'm working on will limit the average current over
time with PWM, measuring instantaneous current when Q1 is on to drive a
feedback loop to set PWM duty-cycle. I'll be reading supply voltage,
and voltage at either side of the .5 Ohm sense resister at various times
throughout the PWM cycle. The software will do ADC at about 125KHz so
there's lots of room to average things nicely. I assume there's no real
problem with allowing current to spike at short intervals if the battery
naturally wants more amps than my PS will supply on a continual basis.
I may be wrong, and it may be a simple matter to install a load resistor
with the sense resistor. I'm still in larval stage so this stuff is
still a little mysterious.
Look again -- I don't think you're there. One huge thing to note: your
Sziklai pair is only going to work well when it's all the way off or all
the way on -- PWM is good, but don't expect it to work in anything
resembling a linear fashion.


+18V Q1 ___ battery
o---------------- ------|___|-----o
\ ^
---
|
|
.-.
| |
| |
'-'
|
|
|<
.---| Q2
| |\
| |
| |
| |
PWM |/ |
o---------| Q3 |
|> |
| |
| |
=== ===
GND GND
(created by AACircuit v1.28.6 beta 04/19/05 www.tech-chat.de)


--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com
 
On Mon, May 06, 2013 at 06:32:52PM -0500, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Mon, 06 May 2013 18:04:51 -0400, Uncle Steve wrote:

On Mon, May 06, 2013 at 03:40:00PM -0500, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Mon, 06 May 2013 16:15:36 -0400, Uncle Steve wrote:

On Mon, May 06, 2013 at 12:01:44PM -0400, Uncle Steve wrote:
Back again for some more abuse.

I'm building a 12V battery charger that will be controlled by a
small low-power microcontroller. I've not yet hooked up the
microcontroller, but most of the code is written and I'm trying to
finalize the charger electronics before I hook it up.

The circuit is very simple. An 18V 2A transformer, a bridge
rectifier, and filter capacitor feeds a main power rail. A 5V
regulator produces a few mA for the microcontroller, which I won't
show here. The charger is more or less as follows, though I will
leave out the resistor/divider taps which hook up to the ADC
channels on the micro.


+18VDC ---------------------------+
Q1 c e | D1 R1
-----\_/--------->|----\/\/\--------+12(batt)
b| |
+------+ |
| | +--+----------+
/ Q2 e\_/c |
R4 \ |b |
/ | e |c Q3
\ +--\/\/\------\_/
| R2 |b
| | R3 SW1
LED1 \_/ +--\/\/\-- \-- +5V
---
|
|
GND --------------+------------------------------------
GND(batt)


Q1 - MJE3055
D1 - 1N4004
R1 - .5 5W

Q2 - BC557
R2 - 200K

Q3 - 2N2222
R3 - 1K
R4 - 2k

The microcontroller will strobe R3 with PCM at about 488HZ with a
duty cycle dependant on the charge profile. R1 is the sense
resistor and permits measuring instantaneous charge current. I've
got the battery attached and can watch the voltage rise (and settle)
as I manually engage a switch attached as shown. The battery
voltage as it came from Wallmart was about 12.7V. Charge current
with this circuit is 1.4A at this point in its charge cycle. The
heat-sink gets rather warm, but it isn't all that big and I'm going
to target 3 or 4A as the peak charge current so I'll probably
substitute a TO-3 package with a much beefier heat-sink when I put
the project in an enclosure.

So far, so good. The output of Q1 shows .6V ripple. Attaching my
scope to the base of Q1 shows an idle (SW off) voltage of 16mV and a
120Hz signal with a 70mVpp with a duty cycle of 17%. I'm not
exactly sure where this signal is coming from, although its
frequency suggests a causal relationship with the AC mains. There
does not appear to be any ripple on the 5V rail, but my scope isn't
good enough to really zoom in on it.

The other side of the coin is that the Q2/Q3 network seems to be
rather sensitive. When I pass my hand over the breadboard the
distortion described above doubles and I can get an amplitude of 1V
on that distortion by standing up suddenly while sitting in front of
the idle circuit. It is difficult to say what is happening because
I can double the distortion by attaching the scope to a wall-wart
USB charger, and I know I haven't yet calibrated the scope all that
well either. (Scope shows 4.5V from the 5V regulator.) But the
fact that I can affect the circuit just by moving things in the
general vicinity is, um, rather shocking.

Besides installing the circuit in a metal case, are there any easy
solutions to fix that 16mV idle voltage? Should I just change the
BC557 to a 2n2222 and work out how many of what kind of resistors I
need to supply the 3055 with the mA it needs to dump several amps
into the battery? I like this version because it is easy to set up
and has a low part count, but I'd really like to get rid of the
noise and the sensitivity to movement.

As suggested, I moved this out of the existing thread. It was an
mistake that I did not remove the references header.

At any rate, I set up a separate pair of 2n2222, 10K resistor, and
BC557 similar to the input stage above as well as a LED. Then I
connected a small spool of insulated wire to the base of the 2n2222
and then let it out a couple of feet until the LED stayed onish
without my hands being near the device.

The result is a strong 6-7MHz signal for a bunch of cycles and then
some dead time. It looks like there could be some FM in there, and
on the high part of the cycle there appears to be an additional small
signal, but I can't resolve any detail with my equipment.

If I hold the spool in my hand the amount of on time changes
considerably depending how much of my hand is in contact with the
plastic and insulation. With palm open, there is one rise/fall cycle
at about 6.5MHz when my hand is about 6in from the wire. As my hand
gets closer, a second peak appears and so on until there is a train
of several dozen cycles at or near the measured frequency.

Any idea what the hell that signal might be?


Regards,

Uncle Steve

I'm not making sense of your schematic. If Q2 is a PNP it should have
its emitter to +18V and its collector to the base of Q1. (Q1 should
have its collector _connected_!!). Q3 is configured to deliver current
to the base of Q2, but it needs to pull current -- ?!?!?!?!

Could you be showing the emitters and collectors of Q2 and Q3 reversed?

I don't think so. The arrangement is described as a Sziklai Pair, and
is described at the following URL:

http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/TheTransistorAmplifier/
TheTransistorAmplifier-P1.html#THEDARLINGTON

If it's doing anything at all (which presumably it is) then amongst
your various transistors you have tons of uncontrolled gain, so it's
not surprising that its oscillating or doing other weird stuff.

What's your goal? A charge current that's proportional to the voltage
at the SW1 end of R3?

SW1 is a stand in for the TTL level output from a microcontroller pin
and will operate at 488Hz PWM as described above.

I'd have to think about how to take that collection of transistors and
make a stable circuit out of it, but if you're really building to that
schematic then I suspect that you need to make some changes!

The oscillation showing up at the base of Q1 may be the result of some
sort of capacitance issue with Q2/Q3. I fiddled with a few small
ceramic capacitors in a naive fashion, but I did not accomplish anything
other than destroying a 2n2222. I simply haven't internalized enough
information about how these things operate to figure out what I should
do to eliminate the distortion.

Note that if you're charging a lead-acid battery (gel or flood) the
ideal charge profile is to limit both voltage and current. Voltage is
limited to some magic number (which I can never remember -- look it
up), and current is limited either by the charger's capabilities or the
battery's. When the charge of the battery is low it accepts charge at
the constant current, but then as it charges you must drop the current
to hold the voltage constant.

I understand that. The preliminary figures I have suggest that the
charge voltage should be 13.8V and the float voltage 13.5V.

The current strategy I'm working on will limit the average current over
time with PWM, measuring instantaneous current when Q1 is on to drive a
feedback loop to set PWM duty-cycle. I'll be reading supply voltage,
and voltage at either side of the .5 Ohm sense resister at various times
throughout the PWM cycle. The software will do ADC at about 125KHz so
there's lots of room to average things nicely. I assume there's no real
problem with allowing current to spike at short intervals if the battery
naturally wants more amps than my PS will supply on a continual basis.
I may be wrong, and it may be a simple matter to install a load resistor
with the sense resistor. I'm still in larval stage so this stuff is
still a little mysterious.

Look again -- I don't think you're there. One huge thing to note: your
Sziklai pair is only going to work well when it's all the way off or all
the way on -- PWM is good, but don't expect it to work in anything
resembling a linear fashion.


+18V Q1 ___ battery
o---------------- ------|___|-----o
\ ^
---
|
|
.-.
| |
| |
'-'
|
|
|
.---| Q2
| |\
| |
| |
| |
PWM |/ |
o---------| Q3 |
|> |
| |
| |
=== ===
GND GND
I will consider that, but note that Q1 is NPN. What you propose
suggests I was counting on current-limiting to occur in the wrong
place.

The software feedback loop ought to allow the ideal pulse width to
'fly' automatically at the correct setting, assuming the ADC readings
are reasonably accurate. Theoretically, I should also be able to
detect collapse (?) of the transformer flux if the current draw grows
too large, which would be a nice bonus.


Regards,

Uncle Steve

--
There should be a special word in the English language to identify
people who create problems and then turn around and offer up their own
tailor-made bogus non-solutions designed to completely avoid the root
causes of the situation under consideration. 'Traitor' might be a
good choice, but lacks the requisite specificity. One of the problems
with contemporary English is it lacks many such words that would
otherwise categorically identify certain kinds of person, place, or
thing -- making it difficult or impossible to think analytically about
such objects. These shortcomings of the English lexicon are
representative of Orwellian linguistics at work in the real world.
 
On 2013-05-07, Uncle Steve <stevet810@gmail.com> wrote:

I will consider that, but note that Q1 is NPN. What you propose
suggests I was counting on current-limiting to occur in the wrong
place.
You can do it like this using the transistors you have.

+18V ----+---+ _+----->|--[Rsense]-----> BAT+
| \ /|
| ----- '3055
| |
+ +
_\| /
------ BC557
|
[100] 0.25W
|
+
/
pwm in |/
---[1K]--| PN2222
|\
_\|
+
|
0V ---+---

The software feedback loop ought to allow the ideal pulse width to
'fly' automatically at the correct setting, assuming the ADC readings
are reasonably accurate.

Theoretically, I should also be able to
detect collapse (?) of the transformer flux if the current draw grows
too large, which would be a nice bonus.
saturation will show in the primary current much more than anything on
in the secondary circuit and the by detecting it you're measuring the
line voltage more than any other variable.

--
⚂⚃ 100% natural

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
 
On Tue, May 07, 2013 at 06:43:00AM +0000, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2013-05-07, Uncle Steve <stevet810@gmail.com> wrote:

I will consider that, but note that Q1 is NPN. What you propose
suggests I was counting on current-limiting to occur in the wrong
place.

You can do it like this using the transistors you have.

+18V ----+---+ _+----->|--[Rsense]-----> BAT+
| \ /|
| ----- '3055
| |
+ +
_\| /
------ BC557
|
[100] 0.25W
|
+
/
pwm in |/
---[1K]--| PN2222
|\
_\|
+
|
0V ---+---
How do you arrive at 100 ohms? I was using 200K because the value is
close to the threshold where it allows something like full power to
flow through the 3055. With 100k or less I was seeing my (cheap)
meter show fluxuating nonsense voltages at the emitter of up to 1500V,
although my scope showed nothing much amiss at lower frequency
settings. I was thinking that the 3055 was somehow generating large
spikes with the rising edge of the pulse, but I did not test it
exhaustively.

The software feedback loop ought to allow the ideal pulse width to
'fly' automatically at the correct setting, assuming the ADC readings
are reasonably accurate.

Theoretically, I should also be able to
detect collapse (?) of the transformer flux if the current draw grows
too large, which would be a nice bonus.

saturation will show in the primary current much more than anything on
in the secondary circuit and the by detecting it you're measuring the
line voltage more than any other variable.
That's what I meant. I don't like to be wrong, so it bugs me that I
am not familiar enough with the nomenclature to avoid stepping on my
dick. I probably should say that the PWM will limit the average
/power/ going in the battery, which is what really matters.

As I understand it, volts are sort of like the size of the pipe;
amperes are like the pressure or the rate of flow, and power is the
throughput. Of course it isn't plumbing and there isn't any water.


Regards,

Uncle Steve

--
There should be a special word in the English language to identify
people who create problems and then turn around and offer up their own
tailor-made bogus non-solutions designed to completely avoid the root
causes of the situation under consideration. 'Traitor' might be a
good choice, but lacks the requisite specificity. One of the problems
with contemporary English is it lacks many such words that would
otherwise categorically identify certain kinds of person, place, or
thing -- making it difficult or impossible to think analytically about
such objects. These shortcomings of the English lexicon are
representative of Orwellian linguistics at work in the real world.
 
On Tue, May 07, 2013 at 08:52:59AM -0400, Uncle Steve wrote:
On Tue, May 07, 2013 at 06:43:00AM +0000, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2013-05-07, Uncle Steve <stevet810@gmail.com> wrote:

I will consider that, but note that Q1 is NPN. What you propose
suggests I was counting on current-limiting to occur in the wrong
place.

You can do it like this using the transistors you have.

+18V ----+---+ _+----->|--[Rsense]-----> BAT+
| \ /|
| ----- '3055
| |
+ +
_\| /
------ BC557
|
[100] 0.25W
|
+
/
pwm in |/
---[1K]--| PN2222
|\
_\|
+
|
0V ---+---

How do you arrive at 100 ohms? I was using 200K because the value is
close to the threshold where it allows something like full power to
flow through the 3055. With 100k or less I was seeing my (cheap)
meter show fluxuating nonsense voltages at the emitter of up to 1500V,
although my scope showed nothing much amiss at lower frequency
settings. I was thinking that the 3055 was somehow generating large
spikes with the rising edge of the pulse, but I did not test it
exhaustively.
I quickly experimented with some lower value resisters and found that
the primary effect of using anything lower than 10K is damage to
either the 2n2222 or the BC557. The failure mode appears to be mainly
permanently shorting collector and emitter, but I observed partially
damaged transistors which would produce 1V at the base of Q1 in the
idle state. Since I've been doing a fair bit of fooling around in the
last 24 hours, it seems I've collected a half-dozen damaged
transistors, which probably contributed to some of the anomalous
readings I have had.

Using fresh parts and 100K between Q3 and Q2, everything is good. The
battery is only drawing 1.6A at this time so I can't easily test the
circuit at higher currents without draining the battery a whole lot.
The ripple at the base of Q1 is still there at 60mVpp which propagates
to the emitter, although I wouldn't see it without the diode. My
guess is that the Sziklai pair is too sensitive for this application,
but I don't really know why or what to do about it. The proximal
sensitivity to mass is another concern, and I don't know whether there
is an internal oscillation occuring that is amplified by a proximal
mass, or whether a proximal mass is triggering the amplification of
power-line hum. An extra .22uF filter capacitor on the 5V rail has no
effect.


Regards,

Uncle Steve

--
There should be a special word in the English language to identify
people who create problems and then turn around and offer up their own
tailor-made bogus non-solutions designed to completely avoid the root
causes of the situation under consideration. 'Traitor' might be a
good choice, but lacks the requisite specificity. One of the problems
with contemporary English is it lacks many such words that would
otherwise categorically identify certain kinds of person, place, or
thing -- making it difficult or impossible to think analytically about
such objects. These shortcomings of the English lexicon are
representative of Orwellian linguistics at work in the real world.
 
On 5/7/2013 8:52 AM, Uncle Steve wrote:

As I understand it, volts are sort of like the size of the pipe;
amperes are like the pressure or the rate of flow, and power is the
throughput. Of course it isn't plumbing and there isn't any water.


Regards,

Uncle Steve

Even with water, pressure and rate of flow are not the same thing.
Power is the rate of doing work.
 
On Tue, 07 May 2013 13:15:10 -0400, Tom Biasi <tombiasi@optonline.net>
wrote:

On 5/7/2013 8:52 AM, Uncle Steve wrote:

As I understand it, volts are sort of like the size of the pipe;
amperes are like the pressure or the rate of flow, and power is the
throughput. Of course it isn't plumbing and there isn't any water.


Regards,

Uncle Steve

Even with water, pressure and rate of flow are not the same thing.
Power is the rate of doing work.
The length of the pipe divided by the diameter is proportionally
equivalent to resistance.

Volts equates to pressure

Current equates to flow rate

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona 85048 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
 
On 5/7/2013 1:18 PM, Jim Thompson wrote:
On Tue, 07 May 2013 13:15:10 -0400, Tom Biasi <tombiasi@optonline.net
wrote:

On 5/7/2013 8:52 AM, Uncle Steve wrote:

As I understand it, volts are sort of like the size of the pipe;
amperes are like the pressure or the rate of flow, and power is the
throughput. Of course it isn't plumbing and there isn't any water.


Regards,

Uncle Steve

Even with water, pressure and rate of flow are not the same thing.
Power is the rate of doing work.


The length of the pipe divided by the diameter is proportionally
equivalent to resistance.

Volts equates to pressure

Current equates to flow rate

...Jim Thompson

I thought he might look it up himself Jim :)
 
On Tue, May 07, 2013 at 09:43:54AM -0700, George Herold wrote:
I don't think so.  The arrangement is described as a Sziklai Pair, and
is described at the following URL:

I redrew your circuit and tried to make Q2/Q3 look like a Darlington
or Sziklai.. didn't work.

One issue I have with your 'pair' is that the idea of the pair is to
get more current gain. So a transistor with only a small maximum
current drives the bigger transistor. I your case you've got it
backwards. The BC557 has a max Ic of 100mA and the 2n2222 is 500mA.
It also seems like the BC557 wiil driven right near it's max
current... Maybe a beefier pnp is in order?
Those are just the parts I have on hand, which were selected more or
less at random for the purpose of experimentation. I'm not really
concerned with the fact that the BC557 is 'smaller' than the 2n2222,
only that there is enough juice getting to the base of the MJE3055,
which appears to be true at this point. Before I hooked up the
battery, I used a 36VDC permanent magnet motor and stalled it by hand
to show almost 4A going through the sense resistor.

I suppose you're correct, as the diagrams of Darlington pairs don't
include anything like the 100K I have installed on the Emitter of the
2n2222, and clearly the last BC557 I blew up was due to the greater
driving power of the 2n2222. I see 26mA going out of the PNP.
Perhaps I don't really need the BC557, and could get away with just
the 2n2222 and an appropriate current limiting resistor.

What led to using the PNP transistor was my initial misunderstanding
of how the 3055 worked, and I assumed the base-emitter voltage of 5V
meant that it should have 5V going in to it max, but I failed to
appreciate that I have the 3055 and battery configured in the emitter-
follower configuration. Perhaps I should move the 3055 to the other
side of the battery and try again.


Regards,

Uncle Steve

--
There should be a special word in the English language to identify
people who create problems and then turn around and offer up their own
tailor-made bogus non-solutions designed to completely avoid the root
causes of the situation under consideration. 'Traitor' might be a
good choice, but lacks the requisite specificity. One of the problems
with contemporary English is it lacks many such words that would
otherwise categorically identify certain kinds of person, place, or
thing -- making it difficult or impossible to think analytically about
such objects. These shortcomings of the English lexicon are
representative of Orwellian linguistics at work in the real world.
 
On Tue, 07 May 2013 13:27:24 -0400, Tom Biasi <tombiasi@optonline.net>
wrote:

On 5/7/2013 1:18 PM, Jim Thompson wrote:
On Tue, 07 May 2013 13:15:10 -0400, Tom Biasi <tombiasi@optonline.net
wrote:

On 5/7/2013 8:52 AM, Uncle Steve wrote:

As I understand it, volts are sort of like the size of the pipe;
amperes are like the pressure or the rate of flow, and power is the
throughput. Of course it isn't plumbing and there isn't any water.


Regards,

Uncle Steve

Even with water, pressure and rate of flow are not the same thing.
Power is the rate of doing work.


The length of the pipe divided by the diameter is proportionally
equivalent to resistance.

Volts equates to pressure

Current equates to flow rate

...Jim Thompson

I thought he might look it up himself Jim :)
Ooooops! Sorry! He is flailing quite a bit. I remember being there
;-)

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona 85048 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
 
On 5/7/13 5:52 AM, Uncle Steve wrote:
As I understand it, volts are sort of like the size of the pipe;
amperes are like the pressure or the rate of flow, and power is the
throughput. Of course it isn't plumbing and there isn't any water.
Volts are like PSI (pressure).
Amperes are like flow-rate.
Ohms are like 1/(pipe size).
Watts are work performed.

Sans quantum and gravitational effects, electricity is very much like a
electron fluid. There are differences, but it is a useful comparison for
intuitive reasoning.
 

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