Chip with simple program for Toy

On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 06:49:54 -0800 (PST), George Herold
<gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Feb 21, 1:07 pm, DaveC <inva...@invalid.net> wrote:
Regular Formvar doesn't
dissolve in solder.
...Jim Thompson

For which you would recommend...?

They make 'nasty' chemicals that will strip the enamel. But for
relatively big wires I just burn it off with a butane torch/ lighter.
For the fine wire the burn method is a bit dodgy, 'cause you can melt
the copper too... turns into a little copper ball on the end of the
wire.

Goerge H.
Yep, a nice little _green_ ball :-(

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona 85048 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
 
On Feb 21, 1:07 pm, DaveC <inva...@invalid.net> wrote:
Regular Formvar doesn't
dissolve in solder.
...Jim Thompson

For which you would recommend...?
They make 'nasty' chemicals that will strip the enamel. But for
relatively big wires I just burn it off with a butane torch/ lighter.
For the fine wire the burn method is a bit dodgy, 'cause you can melt
the copper too... turns into a little copper ball on the end of the
wire.

Goerge H.
 
On Thu, 21 Feb 2013 10:16:08 -0700, Jim Thompson
<To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

On Thu, 21 Feb 2013 09:05:25 -0800, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:

On Thu, 21 Feb 2013 06:41:32 -0800 (PST), George Herold
gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Feb 21, 2:06 am, DaveC <inva...@invalid.net> wrote:
This is one conductor in a cable from some iPod earphones:

http://www.tinyuploads.com/images/mizPu4.jpg

What is the best way to deal with the fibre strands and to tin the wire?

Thanks,
Dave

I did something like that... I just teased the wire away from the
fibers, cut the fibers, and the enamel on the wire burned off from the
heat of the soldering iron.

George H.
I don't even bother to try to tease the fibers away. I just get a good
blob of solder on the tip of the iron and push the wire into it. In my
experience everything burns away except the wire.
Eric

That works for "SolderEze" coated wire. Regular Formvar doesn't
dissolve in solder.

...Jim Thompson
The enamel and the fibers don't dissolve in the solder, they just burn
away. And it's not instant, the removal of the varnish and tinning of
the strands. Sometimes I need to add more solder as the varnish and
fibers burn away. I've never heard of SolderEze coated wire. It sounds
like useful stuff. I'm gonna look for some.
Thanks,
Eric
 
On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 08:44:21 -0800, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:

On Thu, 21 Feb 2013 10:16:08 -0700, Jim Thompson
To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

On Thu, 21 Feb 2013 09:05:25 -0800, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:

On Thu, 21 Feb 2013 06:41:32 -0800 (PST), George Herold
gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Feb 21, 2:06 am, DaveC <inva...@invalid.net> wrote:
This is one conductor in a cable from some iPod earphones:

http://www.tinyuploads.com/images/mizPu4.jpg

What is the best way to deal with the fibre strands and to tin the wire?

Thanks,
Dave

I did something like that... I just teased the wire away from the
fibers, cut the fibers, and the enamel on the wire burned off from the
heat of the soldering iron.

George H.
I don't even bother to try to tease the fibers away. I just get a good
blob of solder on the tip of the iron and push the wire into it. In my
experience everything burns away except the wire.
Eric

That works for "SolderEze" coated wire. Regular Formvar doesn't
dissolve in solder.

...Jim Thompson
The enamel and the fibers don't dissolve in the solder, they just burn
away. And it's not instant, the removal of the varnish and tinning of
the strands. Sometimes I need to add more solder as the varnish and
fibers burn away. I've never heard of SolderEze coated wire. It sounds
like useful stuff. I'm gonna look for some.
Thanks,
Eric
It may not even exist anymore. I last used it in 1987, when I was at
GenRad, Phoenix.

I found this link....

http://www.avrfreaks.net/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=printview&t=44715&start=0

which implies it's no more.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona 85048 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
 
On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 08:44:21 -0800, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:

On Thu, 21 Feb 2013 10:16:08 -0700, Jim Thompson
To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

On Thu, 21 Feb 2013 09:05:25 -0800, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:

On Thu, 21 Feb 2013 06:41:32 -0800 (PST), George Herold
gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Feb 21, 2:06 am, DaveC <inva...@invalid.net> wrote:
This is one conductor in a cable from some iPod earphones:

http://www.tinyuploads.com/images/mizPu4.jpg

What is the best way to deal with the fibre strands and to tin the wire?

Thanks,
Dave

I did something like that... I just teased the wire away from the
fibers, cut the fibers, and the enamel on the wire burned off from the
heat of the soldering iron.

George H.
I don't even bother to try to tease the fibers away. I just get a good
blob of solder on the tip of the iron and push the wire into it. In my
experience everything burns away except the wire.
Eric

That works for "SolderEze" coated wire. Regular Formvar doesn't
dissolve in solder.

...Jim Thompson
The enamel and the fibers don't dissolve in the solder, they just burn
away. And it's not instant, the removal of the varnish and tinning of
the strands. Sometimes I need to add more solder as the varnish and
fibers burn away. I've never heard of SolderEze coated wire. It sounds
like useful stuff. I'm gonna look for some.
Thanks,
Eric
---
Several of the polyurethane and polyester films used to insulate
magnet wire melt easily and allow for quick soldering:

http://www.mwswire.com/pdf_files/mws_tech_book/page2_3.pdf


--
JF
 
Jamie wrote:

Most likely the tau symbol didn't come out but some where in my math
history it once represented 2 * PI.
It still does: http://tauday.com/tau-manifesto
--
Roberto Waltman

[ Please reply to the group,
return address is invalid ]
 
On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 19:55:53 -0500, Roberto Waltman <usenet@rwaltman.com> wrote:

Jamie wrote:

Most likely the tau symbol didn't come out but some where in my math
history it once represented 2 * PI.

It still does: http://tauday.com/tau-manifesto
I've often used "circles" as a unit of angular measure, where 1c = 360 degrees.


--

John Larkin Highland Technology Inc
www.highlandtechnology.com jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com

Precision electronic instrumentation
Picosecond-resolution Digital Delay and Pulse generators
Custom timing and laser controllers
Photonics and fiberoptic TTL data links
VME analog, thermocouple, LVDT, synchro, tachometer
Multichannel arbitrary waveform generators
 
On 2/22/2013 11:52 AM, Jim Thompson wrote:
On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 08:44:21 -0800, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:

On Thu, 21 Feb 2013 10:16:08 -0700, Jim Thompson
To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

On Thu, 21 Feb 2013 09:05:25 -0800, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:

On Thu, 21 Feb 2013 06:41:32 -0800 (PST), George Herold
gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Feb 21, 2:06 am, DaveC <inva...@invalid.net> wrote:
This is one conductor in a cable from some iPod earphones:

http://www.tinyuploads.com/images/mizPu4.jpg

What is the best way to deal with the fibre strands and to tin the wire?

Thanks,
Dave

I did something like that... I just teased the wire away from the
fibers, cut the fibers, and the enamel on the wire burned off from the
heat of the soldering iron.

George H.
I don't even bother to try to tease the fibers away. I just get a good
blob of solder on the tip of the iron and push the wire into it. In my
experience everything burns away except the wire.
Eric

That works for "SolderEze" coated wire. Regular Formvar doesn't
dissolve in solder.

...Jim Thompson
The enamel and the fibers don't dissolve in the solder, they just burn
away. And it's not instant, the removal of the varnish and tinning of
the strands. Sometimes I need to add more solder as the varnish and
fibers burn away. I've never heard of SolderEze coated wire. It sounds
like useful stuff. I'm gonna look for some.
Thanks,
Eric

It may not even exist anymore. I last used it in 1987, when I was at
GenRad, Phoenix.

I found this link....

http://www.avrfreaks.net/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=printview&t=44715&start=0

which implies it's no more.

...Jim Thompson
Interesting. I find that they still sell "solderable Beldsol", which is
specified to solder without stripping at 750 F. A bit hotter iron than
usual, but no blue flames required.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 USA
+1 845 480 2058

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
 
On Sun, 17 Feb 2013 12:55:07 -0800, John Larkin wrote:

On Sun, 17 Feb 2013 14:33:28 -0500, Jamie
jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote:

Fred Abse wrote:

On Sat, 16 Feb 2013 22:05:03 -0800, Daniel Pitts wrote:


I went with 1MHz = 1/(2?*2mH*C) which results in C=50.6pF


It's f=1/(2*pi*sqrt(L*C))

That's not the easiest way to remember it:

Just remember that 2*pi*f*L=1/(2*pi*f*C) at resonance....(1)

From which you can derive everything you need for whatever
circumstance.

There's a further trick. 2*pi*f crops up so many times, that we
allocate a symbol to it, actually the lower case Greek omega, which I
will type as a lower case "w", here. That means you only have to do a
single pi approximation for the whole calculation, which improves
precision.
Ok, but since "w" omega is kind of not a constant, because you still need
to define it at the start, may I add the part there to even shorten it

w= ?*f

Most likely the tau symbol didn't come out but some where in my math
history it once represented 2 * PI.

for some reason I can't find the lower case Omega (? ) in my chart.

Jamie

EEs use tau to mean "time constant." We represent 2*pi as 2*pi.
Indeed.

Usenet doesn't necessarily support 8-bit extended character sets (of
which there are a few). Better to stick to standard ASCII.

That goddamn Greek mu screws up LTspice listings over Usenet, if you
don't watch out for it, for example.

--
"For a successful technology, reality must take precedence
over public relations, for nature cannot be fooled."
(Richard Feynman)
 
On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 12:29:59 -0800, Fred Abse <excretatauris@invalid.invalid>
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Feb 2013 12:55:07 -0800, John Larkin wrote:

On Sun, 17 Feb 2013 14:33:28 -0500, Jamie
jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote:

Fred Abse wrote:

On Sat, 16 Feb 2013 22:05:03 -0800, Daniel Pitts wrote:


I went with 1MHz = 1/(2?*2mH*C) which results in C=50.6pF


It's f=1/(2*pi*sqrt(L*C))

That's not the easiest way to remember it:

Just remember that 2*pi*f*L=1/(2*pi*f*C) at resonance....(1)

From which you can derive everything you need for whatever
circumstance.

There's a further trick. 2*pi*f crops up so many times, that we
allocate a symbol to it, actually the lower case Greek omega, which I
will type as a lower case "w", here. That means you only have to do a
single pi approximation for the whole calculation, which improves
precision.
Ok, but since "w" omega is kind of not a constant, because you still need
to define it at the start, may I add the part there to even shorten it

w= ?*f

Most likely the tau symbol didn't come out but some where in my math
history it once represented 2 * PI.

for some reason I can't find the lower case Omega (? ) in my chart.

Jamie

EEs use tau to mean "time constant." We represent 2*pi as 2*pi.

Indeed.

Usenet doesn't necessarily support 8-bit extended character sets (of
which there are a few). Better to stick to standard ASCII.

That goddamn Greek mu screws up LTspice listings over Usenet, if you
don't watch out for it, for example.
Yup. 1m and 1M are both 0.001. 1meg is 1e6.



--

John Larkin Highland Technology Inc
www.highlandtechnology.com jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com

Precision electronic instrumentation
Picosecond-resolution Digital Delay and Pulse generators
Custom timing and laser controllers
Photonics and fiberoptic TTL data links
VME analog, thermocouple, LVDT, synchro, tachometer
Multichannel arbitrary waveform generators
 
On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 13:15:50 -0800, John Larkin wrote:

Yup. 1m and 1M are both 0.001. 1meg is 1e6.
"1meg" works fine, though. It's been like that since Berkeley Spice
started, and it was all on punch cards and Teletype.

Heck, we still talk about model "cards".

Spice was always *supposed* to be non-case-sensitive.

--
"For a successful technology, reality must take precedence
over public relations, for nature cannot be fooled."
(Richard Feynman)
 
On Sunday, February 17, 2013 10:13:11 PM UTC+1, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Sun, 17 Feb 2013 08:38:47 -0800, olmo wrote:



Hi there,



I just got a raspberry pi and was wondering if it is possible to use its

PWM output to control current flow to a 12 V Battery



Almost certainly, but I don't know what sort of PWM speeds you can attain

with a rasberry pi, so I can't comment on how practical it may be.



(with an IGBT).



In IGBT is a poor choice in a circuit that's working on voltages around

12V. Even 120V is low for an IGBT to be a good choice. MOSFETs are

generally better than IGBTs up to around 500-ish volts, IGBTs are

generally better above 1000-ish volts, and in between it's a toss up.



My

idea is to use a 300 W windmill, a simple AC/DC converter, a IGBT, and

the battery at the other side.



What do you propose to use for your AD/DC converter?



If voltage is above 13.8V, I reduce the current via PWM to fully charge

the battery and disconnect the windmill as soon as the battery is fully

charged.



The windmill has a build in over voltage security system, so I think it

can be ok to just disconnect the windmill.



From the raspberry pi part, I think it's not a problem to read analog

voltage and use PWM. My question is related to how can I connect the Pi

to an IGbT and which circuit I need for that.



You need to do a lot of studying.



From your quote of 13.8V, I assume that you want to charge a lead acid

battery. These batteries have a specific charging profile that you need

to hold to if you want to keep them happy. Basically, you hold the

current below some maximum that's determined by either the battery or

your circuit, then you hold the voltage below some maximum that's

determined by the battery, the temperature, and how long you're going to

hold the battery on charge.



Google "float charging lead-acid batteries".



Exactly how you connect the switching element (IGBT or MOSFET) to the

battery and how you drive its gate depends a lot on things that you

haven't stated.



Why not just go buy a charge controller that matches your windmill?



--

Tim Wescott

Control system and signal processing consulting

www.wescottdesign.com
Hi Tim,

thank you for your reply. I have made a very primitive diagram, see here: http://i.imgur.com/YegwxzO.jpg


The idea is the following: I'm not interested in doing some fancy charging for the battery, I know that the battery will suffer a bit because of this, but it does not matter.

I think it will be enough to rectify the power and send it into a battery directly, and only switch off if voltage is too high. I guess most of the time the battery will be below 13.8V, so the switch will be closed, and any wind that comes flows directly into the battery. I could even put a condensator after the AC/DC converter to minimize the impact of opening and closing to the generator, but I guess it will handle it well (wind can also change very abruptly, and the generator has a protection for overvlotage included)

Yes, of course I could buy a charger for 100 u$ and that's it, but my idea is to use the pi to monitor the battery, and controll other things as well. And this is the first part. I also intend to build a better algorithm in the future.
 
Bret Cahill <Bret_E_Cahill@yahoo.com> wrote:
But you never hear of electricians advocating anyone going around
testing installed CBs for safety.

This is similar to the idiot light problem. ?Supposing the idiot
light has burned out?

Here in the UK AFAIK there doesn't seem to be any way to test them. I
had a brocken socket to be replaced and couldn't find the breaker. We
tried the method of shorting the socket to earth to trip it. The wires
just fused & sat there live.
?We eventually found the breaker at the other side of the store & had
?to
replace with a derated one because the resistance of the circuit was
too high.

Ron

Your wiring needs replacing, a short-circuit should blow even a breaker
of double that spec.
Or you can wait until the house burns down.....

An acquaintence owned a nice small old house with a fuse panel,
probably 60 amps for the main. His insurance company refused to
insure it. The house was supposedly torched by a meth head and he
lost everything.
that sucks, but at least he didn't get ripped off by the insurance
company.
 
Fred Abse <excretatauris@invalid.invalid> wrote:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 18:54:58 -0500, Charles wrote:

I still think that 1.5Ghz is marginal with today's gear. Either a
block converter or one that can do at least 5Ghz would be more appropriate.

It's not so much the first converter, as the first LO, that would add to
the cost. Continuously, linearly, sweeping over a 5GHz range is not
exactly cheap.
Nowadays you don't need to sweep linear. As long as the frequency is
known the CPU knows where to put the dot on the display.

--
Failure does not prove something is impossible, failure simply
indicates you are not using the right tools...
nico@nctdevpuntnl (punt=.)
--------------------------------------------------------------
 
On Feb 23, 1:15 pm, John Larkin
<jjlar...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote:
On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 12:29:59 -0800, Fred Abse <excretatau...@invalid.invalid
wrote:


On Sun, 17 Feb 2013 12:55:07 -0800, John Larkin wrote:

On Sun, 17 Feb 2013 14:33:28 -0500, Jamie
jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote:

Fred Abse wrote:

On Sat, 16 Feb 2013 22:05:03 -0800, Daniel Pitts wrote:

I went with 1MHz = 1/(2?*2mH*C)  which results in C=50.6pF

It's f=1/(2*pi*sqrt(L*C))

That's not the easiest way to remember it:

Just remember that 2*pi*f*L=1/(2*pi*f*C) at resonance....(1)

From which you can derive everything you need for whatever
circumstance.

There's a further trick. 2*pi*f crops up so many times, that we
allocate a symbol to it, actually the lower case Greek omega, which I
will type as a lower case "w", here. That means you only have to do a
single pi approximation for the whole calculation, which improves
precision.
Ok, but since "w" omega is kind of not a constant, because you still need
to define it at the start, may I add the part there to even shorten it

 w= ?*f

 Most likely the tau symbol didn't come out but some where in my math
history it once represented 2 * PI.

for some reason I can't find the lower case Omega (? ) in my chart.

 Jamie

EEs use tau to mean "time constant." We represent 2*pi as 2*pi.


Indeed.

Usenet doesn't necessarily support 8-bit extended character sets (of
which there are a few). Better to stick to standard ASCII.

That goddamn Greek mu screws up LTspice listings over Usenet, if you
don't watch out for it, for example.


Yup. 1m and 1M are both 0.001. 1meg is 1e6.
Yes, I discovered that. Also the LTspice default value for resistance
of an inductor is 1 milliohm and so the Q is too high. I'm playing
with a couple LC tank circuits for IR 36KHz use (6.8mH and 2700pF) and
need the rise and fall times to be only a couple cycles out of 32.
What sort of inductor Q would you recommend?

-Bill

--

John Larkin                  Highland Technology Incwww..highlandtechnology.com  jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com

Precision electronic instrumentation
Picosecond-resolution Digital Delay and Pulse generators
Custom timing and laser controllers
Photonics and fiberoptic TTL data links
VME  analog, thermocouple, LVDT, synchro, tachometer
Multichannel arbitrary waveform generators- Hide quoted text -
 
On Mar 7, 9:39 pm, Bill Bowden <bper...@bowdenshobbycircuits.info>
wrote:
On Feb 23, 1:15 pm, John Larkin





jjlar...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote:
On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 12:29:59 -0800, Fred Abse <excretatau...@invalid.invalid
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Feb 2013 12:55:07 -0800, John Larkin wrote:

On Sun, 17 Feb 2013 14:33:28 -0500, Jamie
jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote:

Fred Abse wrote:

On Sat, 16 Feb 2013 22:05:03 -0800, Daniel Pitts wrote:

I went with 1MHz = 1/(2?*2mH*C)  which results in C=50.6pF

It's f=1/(2*pi*sqrt(L*C))

That's not the easiest way to remember it:

Just remember that 2*pi*f*L=1/(2*pi*f*C) at resonance....(1)

From which you can derive everything you need for whatever
circumstance.

There's a further trick. 2*pi*f crops up so many times, that we
allocate a symbol to it, actually the lower case Greek omega, which I
will type as a lower case "w", here. That means you only have to do a
single pi approximation for the whole calculation, which improves
precision.
Ok, but since "w" omega is kind of not a constant, because you still need
to define it at the start, may I add the part there to even shorten it

 w= ?*f

 Most likely the tau symbol didn't come out but some where in my math
history it once represented 2 * PI.

for some reason I can't find the lower case Omega (? ) in my chart.

 Jamie

EEs use tau to mean "time constant." We represent 2*pi as 2*pi.

Indeed.

Usenet doesn't necessarily support 8-bit extended character sets (of
which there are a few). Better to stick to standard ASCII.

That goddamn Greek mu screws up LTspice listings over Usenet, if you
don't watch out for it, for example.

Yup. 1m and 1M are both 0.001. 1meg is 1e6.

Yes, I discovered that. Also the LTspice default value for resistance
of an inductor is 1 milliohm and so the Q is too high. I'm playing
with a couple LC tank circuits for IR 36KHz use (6.8mH and 2700pF) and
need the rise and fall times to be only a couple cycles out of 32.
What sort of inductor Q would you recommend?

-Bill
Bill I'm not sure I understand your question. But it will take about
Q cycles for an oscillator/ filter to either build up or decay back
down.

George H.
--

John Larkin                  Highland Technology Incwww.highlandtechnology.com jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com

Precision electronic instrumentation
Picosecond-resolution Digital Delay and Pulse generators
Custom timing and laser controllers
Photonics and fiberoptic TTL data links
VME  analog, thermocouple, LVDT, synchro, tachometer
Multichannel arbitrary waveform generators- Hide quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
 
On Mar 8, 5:51 am, George Herold <gher...@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Mar 7, 9:39 pm, Bill Bowden <bper...@bowdenshobbycircuits.info
wrote:


On Feb 23, 1:15 pm, John Larkin



Yup. 1m and 1M are both 0.001. 1meg is 1e6.


Yes, I discovered that. Also the LTspice default value for resistance
of an inductor is 1 milliohm and so the Q is too high. I'm playing
with a couple LC tank circuits for IR 36KHz use (6.8mH and 2700pF) and
need the rise and fall times to be only a couple cycles out of 32.
What sort of inductor Q would you recommend?

-Bill


Bill I'm not sure I understand your question.  But it will take about
Q cycles for an oscillator/ filter to either build up or decay back
down.

George H.
The problem is to receive 32 or 64 cycle bursts of 36KHz from a hand
held IR remote control and output a DC level representing the time
duration of the bursts, either 890uS or twice that of 1.778 mS. It
looks like a tradeoff between gain and response time. If the Q of the
LC circuit is low, the response time will be fast with low gain, and
visa versa. How do I approximate the Q of the inductor for a
reasonable compromise of gain and response time?

-Bill
 
On Fri, 8 Mar 2013 18:57:22 -0800 (PST), Bill Bowden
<bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info> wrote:

On Mar 8, 5:51 am, George Herold <gher...@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Mar 7, 9:39 pm, Bill Bowden <bper...@bowdenshobbycircuits.info
wrote:


On Feb 23, 1:15 pm, John Larkin



Yup. 1m and 1M are both 0.001. 1meg is 1e6.


Yes, I discovered that. Also the LTspice default value for resistance
of an inductor is 1 milliohm and so the Q is too high. I'm playing
with a couple LC tank circuits for IR 36KHz use (6.8mH and 2700pF) and
need the rise and fall times to be only a couple cycles out of 32.
What sort of inductor Q would you recommend?

-Bill


Bill I'm not sure I understand your question.  But it will take about
Q cycles for an oscillator/ filter to either build up or decay back
down.

George H.


The problem is to receive 32 or 64 cycle bursts of 36KHz from a hand
held IR remote control and output a DC level representing the time
duration of the bursts, either 890uS or twice that of 1.778 mS. It
looks like a tradeoff between gain and response time. If the Q of the
LC circuit is low, the response time will be fast with low gain, and
visa versa. How do I approximate the Q of the inductor for a
reasonable compromise of gain and response time?

-Bill
---
Why not just count the number of cycles in a burst and assign the
length of the burst accordingly?

--
JF
 
On Sat, 09 Mar 2013 07:21:04 -0600, John Fields
<jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Fri, 8 Mar 2013 18:57:22 -0800 (PST), Bill Bowden
bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info> wrote:

On Mar 8, 5:51 am, George Herold <gher...@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Mar 7, 9:39 pm, Bill Bowden <bper...@bowdenshobbycircuits.info
wrote:


On Feb 23, 1:15 pm, John Larkin



Yup. 1m and 1M are both 0.001. 1meg is 1e6.


Yes, I discovered that. Also the LTspice default value for resistance
of an inductor is 1 milliohm and so the Q is too high. I'm playing
with a couple LC tank circuits for IR 36KHz use (6.8mH and 2700pF) and
need the rise and fall times to be only a couple cycles out of 32.
What sort of inductor Q would you recommend?

-Bill


Bill I'm not sure I understand your question.  But it will take about
Q cycles for an oscillator/ filter to either build up or decay back
down.

George H.


The problem is to receive 32 or 64 cycle bursts of 36KHz from a hand
held IR remote control and output a DC level representing the time
duration of the bursts, either 890uS or twice that of 1.778 mS. It
looks like a tradeoff between gain and response time. If the Q of the
LC circuit is low, the response time will be fast with low gain, and
visa versa. How do I approximate the Q of the inductor for a
reasonable compromise of gain and response time?

-Bill

---
Why not just count the number of cycles in a burst and assign the
length of the burst accordingly?
Skewing the topic a wee bit: Does there exist any kind of standard for
remote control signaling?

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona 85048 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
 
On Sat, 09 Mar 2013 08:33:06 -0700, Jim Thompson
<To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

On Sat, 09 Mar 2013 07:21:04 -0600, John Fields
jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Fri, 8 Mar 2013 18:57:22 -0800 (PST), Bill Bowden
bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info> wrote:

On Mar 8, 5:51 am, George Herold <gher...@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Mar 7, 9:39 pm, Bill Bowden <bper...@bowdenshobbycircuits.info
wrote:


On Feb 23, 1:15 pm, John Larkin



Yup. 1m and 1M are both 0.001. 1meg is 1e6.


Yes, I discovered that. Also the LTspice default value for resistance
of an inductor is 1 milliohm and so the Q is too high. I'm playing
with a couple LC tank circuits for IR 36KHz use (6.8mH and 2700pF) and
need the rise and fall times to be only a couple cycles out of 32.
What sort of inductor Q would you recommend?

-Bill


Bill I'm not sure I understand your question.  But it will take about
Q cycles for an oscillator/ filter to either build up or decay back
down.

George H.


The problem is to receive 32 or 64 cycle bursts of 36KHz from a hand
held IR remote control and output a DC level representing the time
duration of the bursts, either 890uS or twice that of 1.778 mS. It
looks like a tradeoff between gain and response time. If the Q of the
LC circuit is low, the response time will be fast with low gain, and
visa versa. How do I approximate the Q of the inductor for a
reasonable compromise of gain and response time?

-Bill

---
Why not just count the number of cycles in a burst and assign the
length of the burst accordingly?

Skewing the topic a wee bit: Does there exist any kind of standard for
remote control signaling?

...Jim Thompson
---

It seems everyone who uses IR signaling has their own protocol, so I
don't think there's a datacom "standard" out there.

The hardware, though, seems to be designed to operate at one of
several available IR wavelengths, with several common modulation
frequencies available if you choose not to roll your own.

--
JF
 

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