Chip with simple program for Toy

[Jasen Betts]

On 2010-07-07, W. eWatson <wolftracks@invalid.com> wrote:

On 7/7/2010 4:59 AM, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2010-07-06, W. eWatson<wolftracks@invalid.com> wrote:


I constructed the battery pack in the link above, but w/o the coil. I
plugged it into the 1004ifd and immediately got something of a single
note noise from the device. This seems wrong. Any ideas? I did not
connect to the LNB and disk.

with the input open circuit unloaded and the output shorted it could be oscilating,
or that could be the base level tone.

Thanks. So I should put the choke in and connect the LNB? Yes, F.

Yeah, the choke will probably help, for even better termination you could stick a 75 ohm
resistor (82 is probably close enough) in parallel with the choke and a 100pF capacitor parallel
with the battery. But that may not be needed,

Pointing the LNB arm of the dish (which point in the approximate
direction of the focus) somewhere in the general direction of the sun (during the
day) and you should get a big peak on the meter.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

 

[W. eWatson]

On 7/8/2010 2:44 AM, Jasen Betts wrote:

On 2010-07-07, W. eWatson<wolftracks@invalid.com> wrote:
On 7/7/2010 4:59 AM, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2010-07-06, W. eWatson<wolftracks@invalid.com> wrote:


I constructed the battery pack in the link above, but w/o the coil. I
plugged it into the 1004ifd and immediately got something of a single
note noise from the device. This seems wrong. Any ideas? I did not
connect to the LNB and disk.

with the input open circuit unloaded and the output shorted it could be oscilating,
or that could be the base level tone.

Thanks. So I should put the choke in and connect the LNB? Yes, F.

Yeah, the choke will probably help, for even better termination you could stick a 75 ohm
resistor (82 is probably close enough) in parallel with the choke and a 100pF capacitor parallel
with the battery. But that may not be needed,

Pointing the LNB arm of the dish (which point in the approximate
direction of the focus) somewhere in the general direction of the sun (during the
day) and you should get a big peak on the meter.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
I hadn't realized that some years ago I had put a choke on the cable. I

happened to remove some of the deteriorating electrical tape.

Now I am at a loss. I hooked up the LNB on the dish, and still get the
squeal. Maybe that's OK. The CM sees a voltage of 10 on it's meter or 35
on signal strength. That corresponds to what I measure across the
battery pack with my volt meter. It looks like gain may jack up the
signal strength. It may change the pitch. Not sure. Things get louder.

I have a second (Aspen) LNB detached from the dish. The LNB on the dish
was part of the original equipment.

OK, I've got something going with the Aspen. If I point it at the
ground, the needle goes up. If I point at the sky, it goes to zero.
Pointing it near the sun doesn't change the sky reading, since I
probably need to use the disk and point it at the sun. I think the link
above gives some clues about pointing.

I'll be back shortly. I went to get my voltmeter, and when I came back
wasn't hearing much of anything. I checked the voltage at it's up around
9v. Interestingly, the sun was getting blocked by some clouds. Probably
not related. I hope the batteries aren't getting drained by this
exercise, AA. They were fresh.

I think some more fiddling is required.

 

[W. eWatson]

On 7/8/2010 7:00 PM, W. eWatson wrote:

On 7/8/2010 2:44 AM, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2010-07-07, W. eWatson<wolftracks@invalid.com> wrote:
On 7/7/2010 4:59 AM, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2010-07-06, W. eWatson<wolftracks@invalid.com> wrote:


I constructed the battery pack in the link above, but w/o the coil. I
plugged it into the 1004ifd and immediately got something of a single
note noise from the device. This seems wrong. Any ideas? I did not
connect to the LNB and disk.

with the input open circuit unloaded and the output shorted it could
be oscilating,
or that could be the base level tone.

Thanks. So I should put the choke in and connect the LNB? Yes, F.

Yeah, the choke will probably help, for even better termination you
could stick a 75 ohm
resistor (82 is probably close enough) in parallel with the choke and
a 100pF capacitor parallel
with the battery. But that may not be needed,

Pointing the LNB arm of the dish (which point in the approximate
direction of the focus) somewhere in the general direction of the sun
(during the
day) and you should get a big peak on the meter.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
I hadn't realized that some years ago I had put a choke on the cable. I
happened to remove some of the deteriorating electrical tape.

Now I am at a loss. I hooked up the LNB on the dish, and still get the
squeal. Maybe that's OK. The CM sees a voltage of 10 on it's meter or 35
on signal strength. That corresponds to what I measure across the
battery pack with my volt meter. It looks like gain may jack up the
signal strength. It may change the pitch. Not sure. Things get louder.

I have a second (Aspen) LNB detached from the dish. The LNB on the dish
was part of the original equipment.

OK, I've got something going with the Aspen. If I point it at the
ground, the needle goes up. If I point at the sky, it goes to zero.
Pointing it near the sun doesn't change the sky reading, since I
probably need to use the disk and point it at the sun. I think the link
above gives some clues about pointing.

I'll be back shortly. I went to get my voltmeter, and when I came back
wasn't hearing much of anything. I checked the voltage at it's up around
9v. Interestingly, the sun was getting blocked by some clouds. Probably
not related. I hope the batteries aren't getting drained by this
exercise, AA. They were fresh.

I think some more fiddling is required.
OK, here's the deal. With the Aspen I have the meter around 30 with it

lying on the table. When I point it to the sky it goes to 0. When I
point it at the ground it goes back up to around 30

With the DTV and dish, the dish is just point to the empty sky, and the
meter is reading 20. When I put my hand in front of the LNB and
immediate vicinity, the meter rises to higher values according to how
close I am to the LNB.

OK, time to read the material about pointing the dish.

 

[W. eWatson]

Ah,I found someone outside the web that had good knowledge of the the
Itty Bitty Tele (IBT), and here's my problem. The voltage needs to be
kept about 12v, maybe 11v, but it's crucial to get this working.
Further, the choke is not needed. As it turns out, the Aspen LNB is very
good, but I should replace the dish with one that accommodates the
Aspen. The Aspen won't fit on the dish. No easy mechanical link.
Secondly, the dish is better in this app if it's circular. Well,things
to do ofter the next weeks.

Thanks for pitching in.

 

[m II]

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mike

 

[Grant]

On Fri, 06 Aug 2010 14:04:58 -0700, "Paul Hovnanian P.E." <Paul@Hovnanian.com> wrote:

Tim Williams wrote:

"Jan Panteltje" <pNaonStpealmtje@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:i3hmi5$hhb$1@news.albasani.net...
If you mathematically look at it, look up Fourrier transform,

Four rear transform?

Rule 34, it lives

No, its 'furrier' transform. Because the math is pretty hairy.

Thanks Paul, I needed this with my morning coffee Math is
not my strong point.

Grant.

 

[Shaun]

The only joke is you asshole!!

Don't anyone click on the link in the original message, it full of viruses,
trojans and exploits.

 

[Daniel Mandic]

Cydrome Leader wrote:

It used to be 110, decades ago and has crept up to a nominal 120.

check any old appliance with a cloth and rubber cord. they'll be
maked 110, 115 and even 117 volts and maybe even 60 "cycles".

Hi!


I thought it is 115V in America today....

Old appliances in europe had 220-240V (written on a backside-badge)
input. The former 220V standard has been raised to 230V today.

Bad designed circuitry, awaiting exactly 110 or 220V, might have a
heat-problem.... that's all, but can destroy a device in long term
though.


--
Daniel Mandic

 

[Nobody]

On Thu, 26 Aug 2010 08:00:45 +0000, Daniel Mandic wrote:

Old appliances in europe had 220-240V (written on a backside-badge)
input. The former 220V standard has been raised to 230V today.

Or lowered to 230V for the UK and Eire, where it used to be 240V. For now,
anything sold in the EU must work with 230V +/- 10% (207V-253V).

Bad designed circuitry, awaiting exactly 110 or 220V, might have a
heat-problem.... that's all, but can destroy a device in long term
though.

It's a problem for incandescent light bulbs, which need to run close to
the filament's limit for maximum efficiency. A bulb designed for 240V will
produce signficiantly less light at 220V, while a bulb designed for 220V
will burn out rather quickly at 240V.

 

[John Fields]

On 26 Aug 2010 08:00:45 GMT, "Daniel Mandic"
<daniel_mandic@hotmail.com> wrote:

Cydrome Leader wrote:

It used to be 110, decades ago and has crept up to a nominal 120.

check any old appliance with a cloth and rubber cord. they'll be
maked 110, 115 and even 117 volts and maybe even 60 "cycles".

Hi!


I thought it is 115V in America today....

---
120V nominal, +/- 10%
---

Old appliances in europe had 220-240V (written on a backside-badge)
input. The former 220V standard has been raised to 230V today.

Bad designed circuitry, awaiting exactly 110 or 220V, might have a
heat-problem.... that's all, but can destroy a device in long term
though.

---
You're an Idiot.

If you want to find out why, post back with why you think you're not
and I'll be happy to light you up, even if you can't stand the heat.

---
JF

 

[Daniel Mandic]

John Fields wrote:

---
120V nominal, +/- 10%
---

blackouts and idiot user on the other end of the stripe ;-)
No blind-current compensators etc. (you are the idiots, and that with
110 voltage)

You're an Idiot.

If you want to find out why, post back with why you think you're not
and I'll be happy to light you up, even if you can't stand the heat.

you mean a circuitry will not get more warm when having 238 instead of
220 volt. C'mon...

Field-Theory....

JF

--
Daniel Mandic

 

[John Fields]

On 27 Aug 2010 07:58:48 GMT, "Daniel Mandic"
<daniel_mandic@hotmail.com> wrote:

John Fields wrote:

---
120V nominal, +/- 10%
---

blackouts and idiot user on the other end of the stripe ;-)
No blind-current compensators etc. (you are the idiots, and that with
110 voltage)

---
240V single phase and 240V center-tapped (120-0-120) is what's nearly
universal in our residences here.
---

You're an Idiot.

If you want to find out why, post back with why you think you're not
and I'll be happy to light you up, even if you can't stand the heat.

you mean a circuitry will not get more warm when having 238 instead of
220 volt. C'mon...

---
What makes you think it has to?

---
JF

 

[Daniel Mandic]

John Fields wrote:

---
What makes you think it has to?

---
JF

Hi John Fields!


it has... more power, more heat. (where should the DC transformer
dissipate their +1 or +2 voltage? Not to mention how much the circuitry
consume...)

narrow design might make trouble....
Off course, you are right, normally it should not make problems
[207V-253V], except incandescent light bulbs....


--
Daniel Mandic

 

[Sjouke Burry]

Ng Spim wrote:

Pellentesque dign
cut

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_____ ______
|__ __/ __ \__ __|/\ | | | ____/\ |_ _| | | | | | __
\| ____|
| | | | | | | | / \ | | | |__ / \ | | | | | | | |
|__) | |__
| | | | | | | | / /\ \ | | | __/ /\ \ | | | | | | | | _
/| __|
| | | |__| | | |/ ____ \| |____ | | / ____ \ _| |_| |___| |__| | |
\ \| |____
|_| \____/ |_/_/ \_\______| |_|/_/ \_\_____|______\____/|_|
\_\______|

 

[Grant]

On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:12:55 -0700, Tim Wescott <tim@seemywebsite.com> wrote:

On 09/24/2010 11:48 AM, panfilero wrote:
Hello,

ok, say you've got a DC voltage supply in series with a switch and an
inductor, the inductor ties back into the power supply completing a
circuit. ok, the switch is closed for a little bit then opened....
from what I understand this causes the inductor to produce a hell of a
voltage across itself cause it doesn't like the drastic change in
current. now the switch is open, the circuit it broken there's no
loop for the current... my question is... is there current flowing?
even though it's a broken line because of the switch? If the inductor
is pushin current out of itself, is there current flowing through the
inductor or just out one end of the inductor? I've heard you can
really mess up a switch this way, with that high voltage across the
inductor hanging on one end of the switch... but if the other end of
the switch is floating, how does the switch get damage? I mean, there
can't be any current flowing through the switch, can there? If one end
is floating?

much thanks!

Here's the sequence:

Everything is at rest, and the switch is open.

Then you close the switch. Current starts ramping up in the inductor,
because V = L * di/dt.

Now you open the switch. WHAM! The current in the inductor goes down
really fast, so V goes up really high. At this point, one of two things
are going to happen, based on things that aren't on your schematic:
either that current from the inductor will go to charging up it's own
native capacitance (doubtful, or at least doubtful that it'll be the
only thing happening), or the voltage across the switch contacts --
which probably haven't opened all the way yet -- will be sufficient to
make it arc.

It's the arc that damages the switch (and possibly other things in your
circuit). It's the same effect that makes the old mechanical Kettering
ignition system work, except there the spark is controlled and directed
to the spark plugs.

It's that same urge to just make as much voltage as necessary to flow
the current that damages transistors that turn coils on and off, unless
you put in some sort of snubber or other device to absorb the energy
stored in the coil.

And to make a boost switching converter.

Supplementary? How likely to bust the wire's enamel insulation?

Grant.

 

[TXMarsh]

TomC... email sent : )

tim

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Fred Abse wrote:

On Wed, 20 Oct 2010 21:21:43 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Drop off at DC? They aren't useless unless you don't know shit about
linear power supplies. There were literally millions of linear power
supplies built with 2N3055. A lot of companies made their entire income
from the LM723 & 2N3055.

A fair few of those suffered from HF instability, as in "I can hear you
three megs up". Layout was everything, otherwise the only cure was to
reduce the loop gain and to hell with the degradation in regulation.

Glad to be rid of both devices.

I've worked with 5V 1000A linear supplies built with them that were
rock solid. Of course, that power supply was in a $250,000 piece of
broadcast equipment.

--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

 

[JanOrme99@aol.com]

SPAM

 

[JeffM]

JanOrme99@ aol.com wrote:

SPAM

If you don't make unnecessary posts to Usenet,

you will make fewer people (who have already plonked the OP)
angry at you.

If you use a proper tool to read Usenet,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Usenet_newsreaders
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_Usenet_newsreaders
you'd see a lot less of this crap anyway.

 

[Fredxx]

"Rich Grise" <richg@example.net.invalid> wrote in message
news:idnim6$mlm$1@news.eternal-september.org...

panfilero wrote:

Other answers that mentioned sine waves.... I never mentioned sine
waves... I never even mentioned a square wave, I just said a wave that
was high for 50% of the period... basically a pulse waveform with a
duty cycle of 0.5, if you do the math on this, the rms value of a
pulse is it's peak times the square root of the duty cycle, for Vin =
10V, and D = 0.5 you get 7.07V

Vin * sqrt(D) = 7.07V

No, that only applies to a sine wave. For pulses, it's a straight
1-to-1 because the sides are straight up and down. i.e., 50% duty
cycle yields 50% power, and so on. But only for pulses and rectangular
waves. For triangle waves, it's another equation, for sines you use
RMS, and so on.

I regard RMS to mean the equivalent voltage into a resistive load which has
the same heating effect as a constant DC voltage. The principle can apply
to any waveform.

As you say, for a sine wave, the RMS value is 1/root-2 (0.7071) x peak
voltage.

For this square wave, which has a duty cycle of 50% and a "on" value of 10V,
the RMS value is 7.07V. Try using an example 10R load. 100% duty cycle
dissipation is 10W, for 50% it's 5W. (= (7.07V x 7.07V) / 10R)