Chip with simple program for Toy

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"Jacky Luk" <jl@knight.com> wrote in message
news:ch79fj$pmb4@imsp212.netvigator.com...
 
John, this should be archived on 'basics

Regards,
Bob Monsen

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:237fj0p1aba7pm745ilsinin1cbmmhbnl9@4ax.com...
On Wed, 01 Sep 2004 11:36:29 -0500, John Fields
jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

From last time:

PHEW... That's it for this installment. Next one will be: "Since
You
Have A Comparator Left Over What'll It Take To Turn It into A
Flasher?"

Stay tuned... :)


AND NOW, SPORTS FANS...


+-----+------+---------------------------------------+-----+
| | | |R3 |
| [634K] [316K] +-[634K]-+ R2 [2.4K] |
| | | | | +-[100K]-+ | |
+|9V +------|-----+--|+\ | R1 | | [LED] |
[BAT] | | U1A | >--+---[100K]--+--|+\ | |K |
| | 1.2V-+--------|-/ U1B| >--+---+ |
| | | +--|-/ | [LOAD]
| [78.7K][LM385] | R4 | |
| | | +-----------+----[1M]----+ |
| | | | R5 | |
| | | +----+-[100k]--[IN4148>]-+ |
| | | | | CR1 |
| | | C1[1ľF][10M]R6 |
| | | | | |
+-----+------+--------------+----+-------------------------+

That's the basic scheme, with component values chosen just to get us
off the ground and the plan being to provide something like a 10%
duty
cycle for the LED flash, with an on time of about 100ms and an off
time of about 900ms.

So, where do we start? With U1A.

With the battery voltage above about 6V, the output of U1A will
always
be high. If we can assure that when that's the case the + input of
U1B
will be higher than the - input, the output of U1B will also always
be
high when the output of U1A is high, and the LED will be off.

Let's assume, for some reason, that that's not the case and that we
have a transient condition where the output of U1B is driven low,
but
that we have the circuit connected to a fresh battery with a 9 volt
output. If that's true, then the output of U1A will be high, and
since R1 and R2 are equal resistances the voltage on U1B+ will be
half
the battery voltage; 4.5V.

Now, if the voltage on U1B- is higher than that, the output of U1B
will stay low and the LED will stay lit, but only for as long as it
will take for C1 to discharge to <4.5V through R4, R5, and CR1.
When
that happens, the output of U1B will go high, the LED will turn off,
U1B+ will go to 9V, and C1 will start charging through R4. Because
of
the offset voltage differences between U1B+ and - and the slight
differences in the output structures of U1A and B, it's conceivable
that when C1 charged up close to the supply voltage U1B- might go
enough higher than U1B+ to drive the output of U1B low, so R6 is in
there to prevent that from happening since it forms a voltage
divider
with R4 and is chosen to make sure that U1B- can never go higher
than
U1B+ when the outputs of U1A and B are both high. More on that
later.

Assume now that the battery voltage has fallen enough to cause the
output of U1A to go low. When that happens, U1B+ will go to about
3V,
making it less positive than U1B-. That will force the output of
U1B
low, which will turn on the LED and force C1 to start discharging
through R4, R5, and CR1 until U1B goes slightly less positive than
U1B+. When that happens, the output of U1B will go positive, the
LED
will go out, and C1 will start charging through R4 until U1B- goes
slightly more positive than U1B+, starting the cycle anew.

Notice that there is more resistance in the charge path than there
is
in the discharge path, which means that the capacitor will discharge
more quickly than it will charge. We can use this to tailor the
duty
cycle of the LED to be whatever we want, in this case about 10% with
a
total period of about 1 second.

But how do we choose the values of R and C to get us what we want?

Looking at R1 and R2 just at the threshold of switching, we can see
that when the output of U1A is high the circuit looks like this:

6V (U1A OUT)
|
[R1]
|
+---> 6V (U1B+)
|
[R2]
|
6V (U1B OUT)

Then, when U1A OUT goes low, forcing U1B OUT low:

0V (U1A OUT)
|
[R1]
|
+---> 0V (U1B+)
|
[R2]
|
0V (U1B OUT)

Then, when C1 discharges to 0V:

0V (U1A OUT)
|
[R1]
|
+---> 3V (U1B+)
|
[R2]
|
6V (U1B OUT)

Then, when it charges to 3V:

0V (U1A OUT)
|
[R1]
|
+---> 0V (U1B+)
|
[R2]
|
0V (U1B OUT)

Thereafter, U1B will continue to oscillate as the voltage on U1B+
switches from 3V to 0V, so our job becomes one of making C1 charge
from 0V to 3V in 100ms and making it discharge from 3V to 0V in
900ms.

But, we have a problem in that there's no guarantee that, even with
both comparator outputs low, U1B- will go lower than U1B+ when the
cap
discharges.

So we'll add a bias resistor (R7) to make sure that when both
comparator outputs are low U1B+ will be positive enough to allow the
cap to discharge below that voltage and switch the output high.

+-----+------+--------------------------+------------+-----+
| | | |R7 | |
| | | [100K] |R3 |
| [634K] [316K] +-[634K]-+ | R2 [2.4K] |
| | | | | +-[100K]-+ | |
+|9V +------|-----+--|+\ | R1 | | [LED] |
[BAT] | | U1A | >--+-[100K]----+--|+\ | |K |
| | 1.2V-+--------|-/ U1B| >--+---+ |
| | | +--|-/ | [LOAD]
| [78.7K][LM385] | R4 | |
| | | +-----------+----[1M]----+ |
| | | | R5 | |
| | | +----+-[100k]--[IN4148>]-+ |
| | | | | CR1 |
| | | C1[1ľF][10M]R6 |
| | | | | |
+-----+------+--------------+----+-------------------------+


If we choose R7 to be 100kohms, then with both comparator outputs
high
we'll have what amounts to:

6V 6V 6V
|R1 |R7 |R2
[100K] [100K] [100K]
| | |
+----------+---------+--->U1B+

So we'll wind up with the battery voltage on U1B+, which is what we
want, so that's OK.


With U1A OUT low and U1B OUT high (immediately after U1A OUT goes
low,
but before U1B out has a chance to switch) we'll have:


6V 6V
|R7 |R2
[100k] [100K]
| |
+----------+---------+--->U1B+
|R1
[100K]
|
GND

Which reduces to:

6V
|
[50K]
|
+---->4.0V (U1B+)
|R1
[100K]
|
GND

So, since at that moment the cap will be charged up to very nearly
6V,
U1B- will also be at 6V and the comparator's output will go low,
which
is what we want, so that's OK, too.

Now, a microsecond or so later, when U1B OUT goes low we'll have
what
amounts to:

6v
|R7
[100k]
|
+------+------+
| |
[100K] [100K]
| |
GND GND

which reduces to:

6V
|R7
[100K]
|
+---->2.0V (U1B+)
|
[50K]
|
GND

Which is also fine because the voltage on U1B- will still be more
positive than 2.0V and U1B OUT will stay low, lighting the LED and
discharging C1 through R4, R5, and CR1.

When C1 discharges to less than 2V the voltage on U1B- will be less
positive than the voltage on U1B+, which will make U1B OUT go high.
This will make the voltage on U1B+ go to 4V and will turn off the
LED
and start charging the capacitor through R4. Then, when C1 charges
up
to 4V it will cause U1B OUT to go low, starting the cycle anew.

Now, with U1B OUT switching between high and low we'll have (after
the
first discharge from 6V to 2V) C1 oscillating between 2V and 4V, and
what we want is to have it discharge from 4V to 2V in 100
milliseconds
and then charge from 2V to 4V in 900 milliseconds. To do that we'll
need to select something in the right ballpark to work with, and
since
T=RC and we're talking about almost zero load from the comparator
input, a microfarad and a megohm sound about right for a first cut.

Since, when the capacitor is charging, it'll be starting from 2V and
rising to 4V with a 6V supply, that's really only 2 volts out of a 4
volt spread, so if we write

V1
T kRC , where k = ln ----
V2

and V1 is the 4 volt spread and V2 is the two volt excursion we'll
be
making, then

4V
k = ln ---- = ln 2 = 0.693
2V

Then, since we know C is going to be 1ľF, we can rearrange to solve
for R:

T 0.9s
R = --- = -------------- = 1.298 megohms
Ck 1E-6F * 0.693

The closest standard 1% value is 1.3 megohms, so that should be
close
enough!


Now, for the discharge time, we have a diode in there so we have to
subtract about 0.7V from the 4V spread, leaving us with a 3.3V
spread
and a 2V excursion, so this time

3.3
k = ln ----- = ln 1.65 = 0.501
2.0

and

T 0.1s
R = --- = --------------- = 199.6 kohms
Ck 1e-6F * 0.501

The closest standard 1% value for that one is 200k, so that's also
pretty close.

So here's the final schematic:

+-----+------+--------------------------+------------+-----+
| | | |R7 | |
| | | [100K] |R3 |
| [634K] [316K] +-[634K]-+ | R2 [2.4K] |
| | | | | +-[100K]-+ | |
+|9V +------|-----+--|+\ | R1 | | [LED] |
[BAT] | | U1A | >--+-[100K]----+--|+\ | |K |
| | 1.2V-+--------|-/ U1B| >--+---+ |
| | | +--|-/ | [LOAD]
| [78.7K][LM385] | R4 | |
| | | +-----------+---[1.3M]---+ |
| | | | R5 | |
| | | +----+-[200k]--[IN4148>]-+ |
| | | | | CR1 |
| | | C1[1ľF][10M]R6 |
| | | | | |
+-----+------+--------------+----+-------------------------+

One final thing, R6 will increase the charge and discharge times by
about 10%, but for a low battery indicator I don't think that's
going
to cause any heartburn.

Good luck!

--
John Fields
 
view what with notepad?

--
Don Kelly
dhky@peeshaw.ca
remove the urine to answer
"Jacky Luk" <jl@knight.com> wrote in message
news:ch79h5$olb3@imsp212.netvigator.com...
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"Jacky Luk" <jl@knight.com> wrote in message
news:ch79fj$pmb4@imsp212.netvigator.com...
 
"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:98jgj0l52jma204nu2vbkj1pbdqi1f5mc6@4ax.com...
On Fri, 03 Sep 2004 00:34:17 GMT, "Joe"
nuisancewildlife@nospamearthlink.net> wrote:



Thank you John,

As I said previously, I have a lot of difficulty with ascii
schematics. I
copied the complete post and will have to go thru it slowly to try
and
understand it. Is there a site I can visit for a tutorial on ascii
schematics? I am seeing more and more of them lately. I just don't
understand what some of the symbols mean and how they are connected.

---
It's fairly easy, but different folks use slightly different
conventions sometimes, so it gets confusing. Basically, here's what
I
do:

|
|
Vertical wire: |
|
|


Horizontal wire: ---------------

| |
| |
Wires crossing but not connected: ---|--- or -------
| |
| |
|
|
Wires connected: ---+-+---
|
|


2-leaded components:

Basically, describe what it is with an alpha designation in
brackets,
put some wires on it, and connect it to something.

Horizontal R1
Resistor --[100K]-- or --[100K]-- or --[R1]-- or --[R]--


Vertical R1| | | |
Resistor [100K] or [100K] or [R1] or [R]
| | | |


Horizontal C1
Capacitor --[100ľF]-- or --[100ľF]-- or --[C1]-- or --[C]--


Show polarity where needed, like for electrolytic capacitors:

C1 + |+
--[100ľF]-- or [100ľF]
|

and diodes:

A = Anode
K = Cathode =
K |A
--[1N4000>]-- OR --[1N4000]-- OR [1N4000]
|



For transistors and FETs, label the terminals and put in aything
else
you need to :

| |
Q1 C D
---B NPN ---G
2N4401 E 2N7000 S
| |


For opamps and comparators:


---|+\
| >--
---|-/


For larger blocks, identify the part, label the connections and
enclose them in a box. I like to use +'s for the corners, other
folks
use dots or single quotes or commas. Add pin numbers if you like,
or
whatever will make your meaning clear


+---------+
----|TR- |
----|TH OUT|----
----|D |
+---------+
555


For switches:

____
---O O--- or ---> |
|
O



Then just hook it all up:



+12 +12 +12
| | |
[10K] [10K] 555 [1M]
| | +---------+ |
| <--+-[0.1ľF]-+----|TR- OUT|---|---->OUT
| | | |
O | DIS|---+
| | | |
GND | TH|---+
+---------+ |+
[1ľF]
|
GND

That's a 555 timer which puts out a pulse about 1 second long each
time you press the switch.


Also, there's a free ASCII schematic drawing program out there which
a
lot of people use to post stuff to the non-binary newsgroups. I
forget what its name is (Andy's something-or-other, I think) and the
link to it, but I'm sure somebody will post that info if you ask for
it or if they read this.
Andy´s ASCII-Circuit v1.25.250804 www.tech-chat.de

--
John Fields
 
"Jacky Luk" <jl@knight.com> wrote in news:ch79h5$olb3
@imsp212.netvigator.com:

View with notepad
"Jacky Luk" <jl@knight.com> wrote in message
news:ch79fj$pmb4@imsp212.netvigator.com...
I'm guessing that's your answer and not the question...


-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
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"Robert C Monsen" <rcsurname@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:yN4_c.121481$mD.11768@attbi_s02...
"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:98jgj0l52jma204nu2vbkj1pbdqi1f5mc6@4ax.com...
On Fri, 03 Sep 2004 00:34:17 GMT, "Joe"
nuisancewildlife@nospamearthlink.net> wrote:



Thank you John,

As I said previously, I have a lot of difficulty with ascii
schematics. I
copied the complete post and will have to go thru it slowly to try
and
understand it. Is there a site I can visit for a tutorial on ascii
schematics? I am seeing more and more of them lately. I just don't
understand what some of the symbols mean and how they are connected.

---
It's fairly easy, but different folks use slightly different
conventions sometimes, so it gets confusing. Basically, here's what
I
do:

|
|
Vertical wire: |
|
|


Horizontal wire: ---------------

| |
| |
Wires crossing but not connected: ---|--- or -------
| |
| |
|
|
Wires connected: ---+-+---
|
|


2-leaded components:

Basically, describe what it is with an alpha designation in
brackets,
put some wires on it, and connect it to something.

Horizontal R1
Resistor --[100K]-- or --[100K]-- or --[R1]-- or --[R]--


Vertical R1| | | |
Resistor [100K] or [100K] or [R1] or [R]
| | | |


Horizontal C1
Capacitor --[100ľF]-- or --[100ľF]-- or --[C1]-- or --[C]--


Show polarity where needed, like for electrolytic capacitors:

C1 + |+
--[100ľF]-- or [100ľF]
|

and diodes:

A = Anode
K = Cathode =
K |A
--[1N4000>]-- OR --[1N4000]-- OR [1N4000]
|



For transistors and FETs, label the terminals and put in aything
else
you need to :

| |
Q1 C D
---B NPN ---G
2N4401 E 2N7000 S
| |


For opamps and comparators:


---|+\
| >--
---|-/


For larger blocks, identify the part, label the connections and
enclose them in a box. I like to use +'s for the corners, other
folks
use dots or single quotes or commas. Add pin numbers if you like,
or
whatever will make your meaning clear


+---------+
----|TR- |
----|TH OUT|----
----|D |
+---------+
555


For switches:

____
---O O--- or ---> |
|
O



Then just hook it all up:



+12 +12 +12
| | |
[10K] [10K] 555 [1M]
| | +---------+ |
| <--+-[0.1ľF]-+----|TR- OUT|---|---->OUT
| | | |
O | DIS|---+
| | | |
GND | TH|---+
+---------+ |+
[1ľF]
|
GND

That's a 555 timer which puts out a pulse about 1 second long each
time you press the switch.


Also, there's a free ASCII schematic drawing program out there which
a
lot of people use to post stuff to the non-binary newsgroups. I
forget what its name is (Andy's something-or-other, I think) and the
link to it, but I'm sure somebody will post that info if you ask for
it or if they read this.


Andy´s ASCII-Circuit v1.25.250804 www.tech-chat.de

--
John Fields
Thanks Robert,

I will download it. I visited the site, but did not go to the download
section, I hope I don't have to speak German to understand it.

Joe
 
[snip]

You might try my ascii schematic drawing program. I think you will find it
easier to use than Andy's and it has a few more features.

It's at www.fidalgo.net/~garyr/pyascii/

The executable and associated files are in PyAscii_04_Win9x.zip (~ 2 MB)

The source files are in PyAscii_04_source.zip

Just click on the filename to start the download.

Gary Richardson
 
I read in alt.binaries.schematics.electronic that Gary Richardson
<garyr@fidalgo.net> wrote (in <10jrl2uc19v435a@corp.supernews.com>)
about 'Ascii Circuit Art', on Tue, 7 Sep 2004:
Just click on the filename to start the download.
I bet you say that to all the girls.
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
The good news is that nothing is compulsory.
The bad news is that everything is prohibited.
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk
 
Geo <hy1k-hwia@dea.spamcon.org> wrote in message news:<82grk01pimi8jr28pntv0u9dpd9hkud3mi@4ax.com>...
On 19 Sep 2004 09:55:55 -0700, guitarpicker@ureach.com wrote:

I posted this to some other newsgroups but I thought some of you might
be interested in this as well. I saw this product in the September
issue of Nuts & Volts. Its a video card for microcontrollers called
the ezVID from Multilabs. It uses serial lines for communications.
Seems like a good product for the price. It has decent resolution
with color video. The large SRAM based user character storage is a
nice addition to. I found it at www.multilabs.net and they also have
a decent applications page.

But no PAL just NTSC...

Geo
Geo,
Hopefully them will comeout with a PAL version soon.

Guitarpicker
 
"Rich Grise" <null@example.net> wrote in message
news:drM3d.5211$Ii2.4242@trnddc09...
On Monday 20 September 2004 06:24 pm, Hal Murray did deign to grace us
with
the following:


An AND gate can be made of two diodes and a resistor:

+5V
|
R
|
A -|<|--+---- OUT
|
B -|<|--+

Here, R is a resistor and the |<| thingies are small diodes.

[snip]

My question: What's the point of the resistor here? It seems to me
this could work without it.

Without the resistor, how much current would you get through
one of the diodes when the inputis at 0V?

That's simple. All of it. ;-)
Yeah. Besides, how didja come up with this "AND Gate" stuff? ;-)
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electronic/diodgate.html
 
"Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com>
wrote:

Yeah. Besides, how didja come up with this "AND Gate" stuff? ;-)
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electronic/diodgate.html
Why did you give us this url ?

To show a totally faulty way of doing it?

Look at the first circuit on that web page.
If both inputs are high there is no problem, the output is high, it is
directly connected to the plus 6 Volt power supply.

If input A goes low, what happens?

Unless it can take out the power supply and kill it, nothing happens to
the output. It is still directly connected to the plus 6 Volt power
supply.

If the input to A is made up of a switch to ground it will burn the
diode, or if a very sturdy diode is used, the power supply will burn.



--
Roger J.
 
"Roger Johansson" <no-email@home.se> wrote in message
news:Xns956B7B8A225E086336@130.133.1.4...
"Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com
wrote:

Yeah. Besides, how didja come up with this "AND Gate" stuff? ;-)
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electronic/diodgate.html

Why did you give us this url ?

To show a totally faulty way of doing it?

Look at the first circuit on that web page.
If both inputs are high there is no problem, the output is high, it is
directly connected to the plus 6 Volt power supply.

If input A goes low, what happens?

Unless it can take out the power supply and kill it, nothing happens to
the output. It is still directly connected to the plus 6 Volt power
supply.

If the input to A is made up of a switch to ground it will burn the
diode, or if a very sturdy diode is used, the power supply will burn.

The link shows an "OR" gate. There seems to be a disconnect in the definition.

It is possible to have an "AND" gate or an "OR" gate using the same components.

There is also the possibility that there may be some confusion in the
definition of a 1 and 0. Let us assume a 1 = positive voltage above 1V. 0 =
less than 1V.

An "AND" for positive logic has a pull up to VCC and the cathodes of the
diodes connected so that pulling the anode of either diode to a "LOW" (GND by
definition) will give one diode drop (nominal 0.7V) at the output. GND +
(nominal 0.7V)

AN "OR" for positive logic (as shown in the link,) has the resistor pulling
down, and the diodes connected with the cathodes common to the resistor.
Pulling the Anode of either diode to VCC results in an output of VCC - (Nominal
0.7V)

Is that any clearer?
 
"Clarence" <No@No.Com> wrote:

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electronic/diodgate.html

If input A goes low, what happens?
Unless it can take out the power supply and kill it, nothing happens
to the output. It is still directly connected to the plus 6 Volt power
supply.

The link shows an "OR" gate.
No, it doesn't. If anything it is an always gate, the output is always
high because it is directly connected to the plus 6 Volt supply.

How could it ever be anything but high, unless the power supply is turned
off, or breaks down?

AN "OR" for positive logic (as shown in the link,) has the resistor
pulling down, and the diodes connected with the cathodes common to the
resistor. Pulling the Anode of either diode to VCC results in an output
of VCC - (Nominal 0.7V)

Is that any clearer?
No. And I can't believe that you are trying to defend that circuit as
anything but a big mistake.

Don't you see that the output is directly connected to plus 6 Volt?

Compare how the connection to plus 6 Volt is drawn in the the following
circuits. The connection is drawn exactly alike in the first circuit, so
there can be no doubt that the output is connected to plus 6 Volt.


--
Roger J.
 
"Roger Johansson" <no-email@home.se> wrote in message
news:Xns956BBE496DBA186336@130.133.1.4...
"Clarence" <No@No.Com> wrote:

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electronic/diodgate.html

If input A goes low, what happens?
Unless it can take out the power supply and kill it, nothing happens
to the output. It is still directly connected to the plus 6 Volt power
supply.


The link shows an "OR" gate.

No, it doesn't. If anything it is an always gate, the output is always
high because it is directly connected to the plus 6 Volt supply.

How could it ever be anything but high, unless the power supply is turned
off, or breaks down?
Ah-ha! I see what you mean. I thought it referred to the design maximum
voltage. But IF it is actually a power supply (battery?) it is really wired
wrong. But since it was an educational web site, perhaps the questions should
be "WHAT is WRONG with this picture?"
 
"Clarence" <No@No.Com> wrote:

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electronic/diodgate.htm

How could it ever be anything but high, unless the power supply is
turned off, or breaks down?

Ah-ha! I see what you mean. I thought it referred to the design
maximum voltage. But IF it is actually a power supply (battery?) it is
really wired wrong. But since it was an educational web site, perhaps
the questions should be "WHAT is WRONG with this picture?"
This web page is obviously not intended to show examples of faulty
circuits, so it is simply a mistake.



--
Roger J.
 
"Roger Johansson" <no-email@home.se> wrote in message
news:Xns956BC48D7AACA86336@130.133.1.4...
"Clarence" <No@No.Com> wrote:

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electronic/diodgate.htm

How could it ever be anything but high, unless the power supply is
turned off, or breaks down?

Ah-ha! I see what you mean. I thought it referred to the design
maximum voltage. But IF it is actually a power supply (battery?) it is
really wired wrong. But since it was an educational web site, perhaps
the questions should be "WHAT is WRONG with this picture?"

This web page is obviously not intended to show examples of faulty
circuits, so it is simply a mistake.

So I was too subtle?
 
"Clarence" <No@No.Com> wrote:

This web page is obviously not intended to show examples of faulty
circuits, so it is simply a mistake.

So I was too subtle?

Maybe just a bit too fast, from being wrong to being subtle.

Remember that we are writing in an international newsgroup, where you
cannot be too subtle without a big risk of being misunderstood. So we
need to establish what is right and wrong clearly first, and then you can
be subtle as much as you like.


--
Roger J.
 
"Roger Johansson" <no-email@home.se> wrote in message
news:Xns956BD87C1B51D86336@130.133.1.4...
"Clarence" <No@No.Com> wrote:

This web page is obviously not intended to show examples of faulty
circuits, so it is simply a mistake.

So I was too subtle?

Maybe just a bit too fast, from being wrong to being subtle.

Remember that we are writing in an international newsgroup, where you
cannot be too subtle without a big risk of being misunderstood. So we
need to establish what is right and wrong clearly first, and then you can
be subtle as much as you like.
I was not wrong, the web site was!
Remember the diagram was NOT mine.
I did not refer to it other than to say it was connected as an "OR" which is
is.
It has as you pointed out, a fatal flaw.
What I wrote was entirely correct.

Don't blame me if you didn't understand.
English IS the common language here.
 
All i want to do is just take a shot
from 3 meters away from tripod mamera.
Hi John,

Here is a simple circuit to pick a relay.

http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Lab/5185/circuit1.html

You have to scroll down to the last project. Before you do though, make sure
your software with your camera doesn't have it built in!! I have a Cannon A40
el cheapo, and to my suprise/delight, I can view, zoom, and release the shutter
from my laptop. Rigged up an extension cable, works like a charm!

John
 
"Rich Grise" <null@example.net> wrote in message
news:Jp54d.9609$464.7746@trnddc01...
On Monday 20 September 2004 10:37 pm, Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the
Dark
Remover" did deign to grace us with the following:

"Glenn Gundlach" <stratus46@yahoo.com> wrote in message

We used to call this MML or Mickey Mouse Logic. Handy for CMOS (no
loading) and slow signals like door open switches.
gg

Didja hear that Michael Eisner is going to be leaving Disney?

Because it's a Mickey Mouse Operation. ;-)

I heard that Mickey wants to divorce Minnie on the grounds of
insanity because she's fucking Goofy.

Cheers!
Rich
Owww, you get a howler for that one!! </Harry Potter>
 

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