Chip with simple program for Toy

[Soeren]

Hi Terry,

"krem" <news@rkremser.endjunk.com> wrote:

Hello, I have a motor lifting an object over a set range. Upon
reaching a set height i would like it to reverse and then start to
lower, and again once reaching a bottom position change direction and
begin to rase again. I know i'm going to have to end up using limit
switches and would prefer to use two push button ones if possible.
(temperary on) The motor which needs to be controlled is going to be
running on either 5-6 volt dc supply and doesn't pull a huge
current. (typically runs on 4 AA batteries and lasts a long time) I
would like to have a solution which doesn't include and
microcontrollers as i've yet to take that plunge. Thanks in advance
for any input or suggestions

This naturally doesn't meet your requirement for constant unattended
operation. But it may be of interest to anyone who ends up here via
keywords like 'motor' and 'reversal'. Uses a 2-pole changeover relay
plus two N/C microswitches.

Cannot see the original post, but this does, I assume

O V+
|
+-|>|-+
| _|_
| | /| O OO O OO
| | / | - - | / | | / |
| |/__| | | | | | |
| | | | | | | +----------O +V
+-----+ | | | | |
| | | | | +---------------------------+
+-------+ | | | |
| | | / |
| O | | |
-> | | | |
| O | | |
| | | |
+---------+ | |
| (2) |
(1) _|_
/ \
| M |
O V+ \___/
| |
+-|>|-+ |
| _|_ |
| | /| O OO O OO |
| | / | - - | / | | / | |
| |/__| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | +----------O +V |
+-----+ | | | | | |
| | | | | +---------------------------+
+-------+ | | |
| | | /
| O | |
-> | | |
| O | |
| | |
+---------+ |
| (1)
(2)


--
Regards,
Soeren

* If it puzzles you dear... Reverse engineer *

 

[CFoley1064]

Subject: bending 200 resistors
From: johanwagener@webmail.co.za (Johan Wagener)
Date: 5/3/2004 9:05 AM Central Standard Time
Message-id: <c86a2c09.0405030605.421c98db@posting.google.com

I need to bend more than 200 resistor leads before I solder them to my
pcb. I can't seem to find one of those resistor lead bending tools.

Any hints on how to accurately bend them all so that they fit
perfectly?

http://www.jameco.com/

TOOL,LEAD FORMING, 1/4-1/2WATT RESISTORS

Jameco #106884
Mfg Ref #801 2.75 USD

If you're in a bind, make one yourself. Get a piece of hardwood or metal which
has a width greater than the distance between your PCB holes. Mill it down so
the width is one lead diameter less than the distance between your hole
centers. Mill a small groove across the width of the piece such that the leads
will fit securely. Then mill out a concavity in the center of the piece such
that the resistor body will fit inside without touching the piece. Then just
insert the resistors, and manually bend the leads down with your fingers. If
you need a hint, punch in the number at JAmeco.com and look at the picture.
Voilla.

This is one of those cheapie tools that wll last at least one lifetime. Gotta
buy one sometime.

Good luck
Chris

 

[cpemma]

CFoley1064 wrote:

Subject: bending 200 resistors
From: johanwagener@webmail.co.za (Johan Wagener)
Date: 5/3/2004 9:05 AM Central Standard Time
Message-id: <c86a2c09.0405030605.421c98db@posting.google.com

I need to bend more than 200 resistor leads before I solder them to
my pcb. I can't seem to find one of those resistor lead bending
tools.

Any hints on how to accurately bend them all so that they fit
perfectly?

http://www.jameco.com/

TOOL,LEAD FORMING, 1/4-1/2WATT RESISTORS

Jameco #106884
Mfg Ref #801 2.75 USD

This is one of those cheapie tools that wll last at least one
lifetime. Gotta buy one sometime.

I got a very similar jig free with an electronics mag donkey's years ago, be
nice to say it's still going strong but I lost the beggar.

Now I use a scrap of perfboard sawn through the holes.
--
email address is a black hole. Change cpemma to cpm.

 

[Michael Black]

"cpemma" (cpemma@mexbro.co.uk) writes:

CFoley1064 wrote:
Subject: bending 200 resistors
From: johanwagener@webmail.co.za (Johan Wagener)
Date: 5/3/2004 9:05 AM Central Standard Time
Message-id: <c86a2c09.0405030605.421c98db@posting.google.com

I need to bend more than 200 resistor leads before I solder them to
my pcb. I can't seem to find one of those resistor lead bending
tools.

Any hints on how to accurately bend them all so that they fit
perfectly?

http://www.jameco.com/

TOOL,LEAD FORMING, 1/4-1/2WATT RESISTORS

Jameco #106884
Mfg Ref #801 2.75 USD

This is one of those cheapie tools that wll last at least one
lifetime. Gotta buy one sometime.

I got a very similar jig free with an electronics mag donkey's years ago, be
nice to say it's still going strong but I lost the beggar.

Now I use a scrap of perfboard sawn through the holes.

Was it Practical Electronics? It was imported here to Canada,
and they often seemed to have interesting things. Fairly bulky things
taped to the magazine. I'm sure I bought the issue with the bending jig,
though I can't recall every using it. Salvaging resistors off circuit
boards means there isn't much lead to work with. And if I did indeed buy
that issue, I sure don't know where the bending jig is.

Michael

 

[cpemma]

Michael Black wrote:

"cpemma" (cpemma@mexbro.co.uk) writes:
CFoley1064 wrote:
Subject: bending 200 resistors
From: johanwagener@webmail.co.za (Johan Wagener)
Date: 5/3/2004 9:05 AM Central Standard Time
Message-id: <c86a2c09.0405030605.421c98db@posting.google.com

I need to bend more than 200 resistor leads ...


TOOL,LEAD FORMING, 1/4-1/2WATT RESISTORS

Jameco #106884
Mfg Ref #801 2.75 USD

This is one of those cheapie tools that wll last at least one
lifetime. Gotta buy one sometime.

I got a very similar jig free with an electronics mag donkey's years
ago, be nice to say it's still going strong but I lost the beggar.

Now I use a scrap of perfboard sawn through the holes.

Was it Practical Electronics?

Could well have been, but I'm talking over 30 years ago...
--
email address is a black hole. Change cpemma to cpm.

 

[Terry Pinnell]

Dave <Dave@local.here> wrote:

I have a cheapo ultrasonic pest repeller thing that's just an osc/amp + small
speaker. What I'd like to do is remove the speaker and feed the signal into a
more powerful amp then use that to drive a tweeter. The freq. is about 25-30kHz.
Has someone got a *simple) circuit I can use to do this please? I only have a
multimeter (no 'scope) so I can't see if it's working. I don't want to build the
osc. from scratch because, as I say, I have no 'scope to see it's actually
working.
tia

See this recent thread.

To: Newsgroups: sci.electronics.basics
Subject: Re: Need ultrasonic sound
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 14:12:13 +0100
Message-ID: <p2bv805gbum6n76ak217qmlasd09hi4pl4@4ax.com>

The 'Dazer' I mentioned has now arrived. It's very small and powered
by a single 9V PP3. So, assuming it really is effective (and there are
many apparently genuine endorsements), I'm guessing that the
significant difference to my DIY design (18V, and rather larger piezo)
is as Soeren implied, namely the need for an inductor to get
resonance.

I'll open it up soon and report back. But I anticipate still needing
an answer to a question to which I've so far seen no thorough reply:
how to *measure* the output power? (Or calculate it reliably.)

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

 

[burbeck]

On Wed, 26 May 2004 09:31:18 +0100, burbeck <crooksie@bigfoot.com>
wrote:

On 25 May 2004 23:38:52 -0700, stanfleisch90@hotmail.com (stan) wrote:

Can anyone point me to any webisite or provide me information about
how to build a device that can listen through a concrete wall?

Thanks

hi there stan,
the tradishional method for a device of this type is an inverted wine
glass,

traditional even

 

[R. Steve Walz]

Dimitrij Klingbeil wrote:

R. Steve Walz wrote:

Do you have a reference to support that claim?
----------------------------
Plenty! But you can get your own.
So if you get tired of posturing you could go look it up.
But then you're WAAAAY too dishonest to go do THAT!

May or may not be true, I did noy check it.
--------------------

Then you have no right to question it either. Go away.

Your style however brings me to
the idea to look these proof techniques up on the internet
---------------------

Disingenuous cut-n-paste toss-off humor is irrelevant.

And NO "proof" OF ANY KIND WHATSOEVER is possible anyway,
when it is resisted dishonestly,
or on Usenet,
or among any group of disingenuous partisans.

-Steve
--
-Steve Walz stevew@armory.com ftp://ftp.armory.com/pub/user/rstevew
Electronics Site!! 1000's of Files and Dirs!! With Schematics Galore!!
http://www.armory.com/~rstevew or http://www.armory.com/~rstevew/Public

 

[Activ8]

On 4 Jun 2004 02:03:49 -0700, Google Vasiliou wrote:

Dear All

I need your help on the following issue.

I have to construct a Class AB - push pull amplifier with MOSFET
Amplifier should be able to provide 21Watt output power (10.5
Watt RMS) at 8 ohm load (i.e speaker) .
The circuit suppose to be able to amplify input signal from 1 Vrms at
a range of 10 Hz to 40 KHz .

Requirements
1) Vdc should not exceed 50 Volts
2) Dc Current not to exceed 2 Amperes.
3) Construction of Amplifier should be with MOSFET , even if we can find
easier ways!

Your opinion would be reall help for me .

So what's your question?

WHy crosspost to repair if the thing isn't even built?
--
Best Regards,
Mike

 

[Paul Guy]

On Tue, 8 Jun 2004 21:31:28 +0100, "Daniel Kelly \(AKA Jack\)"
<d.kellyNOSPAM@NOSPAM.ucl.ac.uk> wrote:

Hi,

I am planning a job where I need to manually solder surface mount ICs. Some
of these ICs have pins that are only 0.5mm apart! I'm worried that this
will be impossible to solder manually.

I've looked on the web - people tell me it is possible to solder SMDs but
I'm worried their talking about older SMDs with pin-to-pin distances of more
like 1mm.

I'm a relatively skilled soldering iron user.

Is it possible to manually solder ICs with pins only 0.5mm apart?

Thanks,
Jack

The pads MUST NOT have any applied solder on them. If they do,

remove it all with solderwick. (the bumps from the solder will not
allow the chip to lie flat.)
Align the IC, solder one corner pin to hold it down. Solder the
opposite corner down. Don't worry if the solder joins several pins.
Make absolutely sure it's aligned properly, and all the pins are
resting on the pads. Now apply enough solder that all the pins are
covered, even if they are all shorted together.
Here's the neat part: Take some "solderwick" (the braided stuff you
use for removing solder) and remove all the solder! It doesn't really
take it all off, it leaves the required amount underneath the "feet"
of the pins. If you look in a microscope, you'll find that you have
almost perfectly soldered pins. There will be trouble if the pins
didn't all touch the pads prior to soldering. Chips intended for
surface mount must have good co-planarity, so be very gentle handling
them. If you bend the leads for than a few thousands of an inch, you
can expect trouble.
If you have a good touch with an iron, and are using good liquid
flux (RMA type, you must remove the residual flux afterward using a
solvent like isopropyl alcohol), you can zoom thin solder along the
pins, and it will not short them out. I believe it's absolutely
necessary to use the proper liquid flux in order to pull this off, and
it does need a bit of practice. You'll need the solderwick to remove
shorted pins. I figure if you're using solderwick anyhow, then do the
first method and not lose any sleep over it.
I have successfully soldered QFP80's this way, the most difficult
part is the alignment to the pads.
This is not a fast way to solder, but it doesn't need any fancy
equipment.
To show how crude you can get, instead of using our hot air reflow
stations (several thousand $ each), I demonstrated soldering a QFP80
using an old crappy soldering GUN, along with the solderwick removal.
The final results were just as good, under close inspection with a
microscope, and they easily met the IPC/EIA J-STD-001C soldering
standards. (Don't do this with a good chip! The soldering guns can
damage chips because of electrostatic discharge (ESD) from the
capacitive coupling to the power line.)

-Paul
...............................................................
Paul
Somewhere in the Nova Scotia fog
ANTISPAM - Please remove the m's in my email address

 

[John Larkin]

On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 21:12:35 -0300, Paul Guy
<mpaulmguym@meastlinkm.ca> wrote:

On Tue, 8 Jun 2004 21:31:28 +0100, "Daniel Kelly \(AKA Jack\)"
d.kellyNOSPAM@NOSPAM.ucl.ac.uk> wrote:

Hi,

I am planning a job where I need to manually solder surface mount ICs. Some
of these ICs have pins that are only 0.5mm apart! I'm worried that this
will be impossible to solder manually.

I've looked on the web - people tell me it is possible to solder SMDs but
I'm worried their talking about older SMDs with pin-to-pin distances of more
like 1mm.

I'm a relatively skilled soldering iron user.

Is it possible to manually solder ICs with pins only 0.5mm apart?

Thanks,
Jack

The pads MUST NOT have any applied solder on them. If they do,
remove it all with solderwick. (the bumps from the solder will not
allow the chip to lie flat.)

We sent out some BGA chips (560 or so balls) to be soldered. The guy
who did it for us applied no solder, just used the solder coating that
came on the board. He said you have to apply the flux with a bare
finger, nothing else will do. He did xray every joint, and all the
boards worked fine.

John

 

[Andre]

John Larkin <jjlarkin@highSNIPlandTHIStechPLEASEnology.com> wrote in message news:<98bfc09udp1ivrkjsmgqp4n0fo6t2r7na2@4ax.com>...

On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 21:12:35 -0300, Paul Guy
mpaulmguym@meastlinkm.ca> wrote:

On Tue, 8 Jun 2004 21:31:28 +0100, "Daniel Kelly \(AKA Jack\)"
d.kellyNOSPAM@NOSPAM.ucl.ac.uk> wrote:

Hi,

I am planning a job where I need to manually solder surface mount ICs. Some
of these ICs have pins that are only 0.5mm apart! I'm worried that this
will be impossible to solder manually.

I've looked on the web - people tell me it is possible to solder SMDs but
I'm worried their talking about older SMDs with pin-to-pin distances of more
like 1mm.

I'm a relatively skilled soldering iron user.

Is it possible to manually solder ICs with pins only 0.5mm apart?

Thanks,
Jack

The pads MUST NOT have any applied solder on them. If they do,
remove it all with solderwick. (the bumps from the solder will not
allow the chip to lie flat.)

We sent out some BGA chips (560 or so balls) to be soldered. The guy
who did it for us applied no solder, just used the solder coating that
came on the board. He said you have to apply the flux with a bare
finger, nothing else will do. He did xray every joint, and all the
boards worked fine.

Thats pretty neat I have some dead cameras here with fried BGA
controller chips.

BGA chips are a total pain to solder- you need a proper infra-red
reflow unit and X-ray scanner which your average hobbyist (except
maybe Sam G and/or Chip Shultz) won't have access to.



-A


-A

John

 

[Captain]

Presumably, the mountanis in Nepal are as windy as mountains everywhere.
Have you considered a wind powered generator. Since you won't be worried
about the muscle power requirements, and should have a lot of energy to work
with, you can use a 12V car alternator without modification. Bicycle parts,
particularly chains and cogs, can be used to increase the rotational speed
of the alternator.

The simplest rig I've seen used a 55 gallon drum cut in half lengthways and
mounted at each end of a beam so that they acted like a big aeneometer. The
beam was drilled through the centre and as shaft bolted through it, which
turned the big cog from a bike. A system of chains and more cogs was used
to increase speed and the generator produced a steady voltage and current
limited 12 Volts. This was used to charge car batteries and run radios and
a limited amount of lighting. It was definitely a haywire rig, but it
seemed to work pretty well.

There's probably an optimum length of beam to get the most energy out of any
wind. Longer has more torque but turns slower, while the reverse would hold
true of shorter beams.

Hope this helps

Cap

 

[Ironfist5687]

You have NO real content then and nothing logical or reasonable to
offer a discussion of the real issues.
Steve

You dont even know anything about what he's talking about you piece of trash!!

 

[R. Steve Walz]

Ironfist5687 wrote:

You have NO real content then and nothing logical or reasonable to
offer a discussion of the real issues.
Steve

You dont even know anything about what he's talking about you piece of trash!!
--------------

John Wolf, the diaper fetish boy troll, ladies and gentlemen!!

-Steve
--
-Steve Walz rstevew@armory.com ftp://ftp.armory.com/pub/user/rstevew
Electronics Site!! 1000's of Files and Dirs!! With Schematics Galore!!
http://www.armory.com/~rstevew or http://www.armory.com/~rstevew/Public

 

[Rich Grise]

"Captain" <Captain7@rochester.rr.com> wrote in message
news:EI7zc.159412$hY.65087@twister.nyroc.rr.com...

Presumably, the mountanis in Nepal are as windy as mountains everywhere.
Have you considered a wind powered generator. Since you won't be worried
about the muscle power requirements, and should have a lot of energy to
work
with, you can use a 12V car alternator without modification. Bicycle
parts,
particularly chains and cogs, can be used to increase the rotational speed
of the alternator.

From his description of the climate it sounds more tropical than
mountainous.
I'd think if they're in mountains, and don't already have hydro, then
they're
probably not smart enough to run a viable colony anyway. ;-)

And I haven't heard much one way or the other on water wheels on the rain
gutters during monsoon.

Thanks!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

"Captain" <Captain7@rochester.rr.com> wrote in message
news:EI7zc.159412$hY.65087@twister.nyroc.rr.com...

Presumably, the mountanis in Nepal are as windy as mountains everywhere.
Have you considered a wind powered generator. Since you won't be worried
about the muscle power requirements, and should have a lot of energy to
work
with, you can use a 12V car alternator without modification. Bicycle
parts,
particularly chains and cogs, can be used to increase the rotational speed
of the alternator.

The simplest rig I've seen used a 55 gallon drum cut in half lengthways
and
mounted at each end of a beam so that they acted like a big aeneometer.
The
beam was drilled through the centre and as shaft bolted through it, which
turned the big cog from a bike. A system of chains and more cogs was used
to increase speed and the generator produced a steady voltage and current
limited 12 Volts. This was used to charge car batteries and run radios
and
a limited amount of lighting. It was definitely a haywire rig, but it
seemed to work pretty well.

There's probably an optimum length of beam to get the most energy out of
any
wind. Longer has more torque but turns slower, while the reverse would
hold
true of shorter beams.

Hope this helps

This one looks pretty cool:
http://www.fortunecity.com/greenfield/bp/16/savonius2.htm
That's one of "about 747" matches at:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&q=savonius+wind+turbine

And during the rainy season, just turn it sideways!

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Sage]

Well, the problem is as follows: the installation is on the peak of a
mountain, where there are no streams of any size within transmission
distance... at least within efficient transmission distance. So using
hydro is actually less efficient than these other options. Lately the
wind has been blowing a little, and there is one wind turbine there.
But see in the monsoon there are days of complete cloud and rain, yet
with little wind above 5 mph, so basically we're trickling in a little
solar and that's it. We have 100 watts of solar at this point. We
could get more solar, but money's an issue and plus isn't it fun to
make a human powered generator?

Sage

From his description of the climate it sounds more tropical than
mountainous.
I'd think if they're in mountains, and don't already have hydro, then
they're
probably not smart enough to run a viable colony anyway. ;-)

And I haven't heard much one way or the other on water wheels on the rain
gutters during monsoon.

Thanks!
Rich

 

[Charles Jean]

On Tue, 15 Jun 2004 04:40:03 GMT, "Rich Grise" <null@example.net>
wrote:

"Captain" <Captain7@rochester.rr.com> wrote in message
news:EI7zc.159412$hY.65087@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
Presumably, the mountanis in Nepal are as windy as mountains everywhere.
Have you considered a wind powered generator. Since you won't be worried
about the muscle power requirements, and should have a lot of energy to
work
with, you can use a 12V car alternator without modification. Bicycle
parts,
particularly chains and cogs, can be used to increase the rotational speed
of the alternator.

From his description of the climate it sounds more tropical than
mountainous.
I'd think if they're in mountains, and don't already have hydro, then
they're
probably not smart enough to run a viable colony anyway. ;-)

And I haven't heard much one way or the other on water wheels on the rain
gutters during monsoon.

Thanks!
Rich

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Rough calculation for:
1 inch/hr rain
500 sq.ft. hut roof area
8' distance between roof gutter and downspout exit(entrance to paddle
wheel generator)

(1 inch/hr) X (500 ft^2) X (ft/12 in) X (hr/3600 sec) X (62.4 lb/ft^3)
X (8 ft) = 5.77 ft-lb/sec
or
5.77/550 = 0.01 HP
or
..01 X 746 = 7.46 Watts

Assuming water to wire process is 100% efficient.

and
7.46 Watts/12 V = 0.6 A
(600/1600) X 100 = 37.5 % charge on a 1600 maH NMH battery

~3 hrs worth of in/hr rain would top up one NiMH battery

Looks kind of grim to me. Needs lots of rain, Lots of roofs, lots of
batteries....
Higher roofs of larger area not a bad idea, either.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++
If God hadn't intended us to eat animals,
He wouldn't have made them out of MEAT!
- John Cleese

 

[Rich Grise]

"Sage" <sagenepal@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:e2c6ebeb.0406151215.4c6abeaa@posting.google.com...

Well, the problem is as follows: the installation is on the peak of a
mountain, where there are no streams of any size within transmission
distance... at least within efficient transmission distance. So using
hydro is actually less efficient than these other options. Lately the
wind has been blowing a little, and there is one wind turbine there.
But see in the monsoon there are days of complete cloud and rain, yet
with little wind above 5 mph, so basically we're trickling in a little
solar and that's it. We have 100 watts of solar at this point. We
could get more solar, but money's an issue and plus isn't it fun to
make a human powered generator?

Howcome you've never commented one way or the other on using water
wheels during that rainy season? How many buildings are there with
roofs?(rooves?) How hard is it to build rain gutters? How many gallons
fall on a roof during an average rain? How many joules get released
when that water descends 8 feet? Put a "chain pump" in the downspout,
and run it reverse, like a water wheel. It might take some gearing
up, but what the hey!

And if you "don't need it, because the rain fills up the cistern,"
or some craziness like that, ;-) then build another cistern, upslope
if there _is_ any, and fill it with water too. (while it's raining,
and all your downspouts are generating, you can pump water uphill as
well.) Then let it run the water wheel(s) until it runs out, and _then_
start pedaling the damn bicycle!

Cheers!
Rich