Chip with simple program for Toy

Miles Golding wrote:
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:3FCB68E0.3E7FF30D@earthlink.net...
Miles Golding wrote:

I think I have succeeded in soldering the 6 wires to the switch
terminals,
thanks to the helpful advice given by members on this newsgroup and
alt.binaries.schematics.electronics a few days ago.
Before I re-assemble the computer and test the connections, can someone
please tell me what the device is that, when exposing the switch unit, I
found clamped around the cables, shown in the photo in its unclamped
state.
It is quite heavy for its size, and I assumed it was some sort of
magnet,
but it doesn't appear to have any magnetic properties. I think it may
have
caused the wires to sever in the first place, because it was lying loose
inside the computer case, and any movement of the computer would have
surely
put strain on the delicate wire strands.
Is this an essential item?
Miles G

[Image]

Miles, this is not a binaries newsgroup. You already have the picture
posted on news:alt.binaries.schematics.electronic You should just post a
message pointing to the message on that newsgroup.
--
24 days!


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Thanks Michael. I just wanted to let Lord Garth know - he was very helpful
on this newsgroup and I hadn't seen his name on the other. My apologies. I
guess those extra kbs are wasting bandwidth and people's time.
Miles G
A lot of news servers delete any file with a binary attached so you
should use the proper groups so people will see it. ;-)
--
24 days!


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:3FCB68E0.3E7FF30D@earthlink.net...
Miles Golding wrote:

I think I have succeeded in soldering the 6 wires to the switch
terminals,
thanks to the helpful advice given by members on this newsgroup and
alt.binaries.schematics.electronics a few days ago.
Before I re-assemble the computer and test the connections, can someone
please tell me what the device is that, when exposing the switch unit, I
found clamped around the cables, shown in the photo in its unclamped
state.
It is quite heavy for its size, and I assumed it was some sort of
magnet,
but it doesn't appear to have any magnetic properties. I think it may
have
caused the wires to sever in the first place, because it was lying loose
inside the computer case, and any movement of the computer would have
surely
put strain on the delicate wire strands.
Is this an essential item?
Miles G

[Image]

Miles, this is not a binaries newsgroup. You already have the picture
posted on news:alt.binaries.schematics.electronic You should just post a
message pointing to the message on that newsgroup.
--
24 days!


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
Thanks Michael. I just wanted to let Lord Garth know - he was very helpful
on this newsgroup and I hadn't seen his name on the other. My apologies. I
guess those extra kbs are wasting bandwidth and people's time.
Miles G
 
Miles Golding wrote:
I think I have succeeded in soldering the 6 wires to the switch terminals,
thanks to the helpful advice given by members on this newsgroup and
alt.binaries.schematics.electronics a few days ago.
Before I re-assemble the computer and test the connections, can someone
please tell me what the device is that, when exposing the switch unit, I
found clamped around the cables, shown in the photo in its unclamped state.
It is quite heavy for its size, and I assumed it was some sort of magnet,
but it doesn't appear to have any magnetic properties. I think it may have
caused the wires to sever in the first place, because it was lying loose
inside the computer case, and any movement of the computer would have surely
put strain on the delicate wire strands.
Is this an essential item?
i don't know what it is called but i think it is to reduce noise
radiated in the signal lines.

i would leave in on, someone must have thought it was essential.

there would be nothing wrong with finding a good place for it in the
enclosure and tacking it down with hot-melt glue. just make sure it is
positioned so there is room for everything else that's in there.

-- rob
 
(my newsserver won't let me post to alt.electronics)
John <reeferjon@msn.com> wrote:
Hi Guys.
I have the following problem, could you please help provide a little insight
into the calculation.

A piece of refrigeration equipment has a 50hp engine with a 12v control
system, an alternator for battery recharge and of course a 12v (100Ah)
battery for starting.
The control system has a remote temperature and standby/ready control. To
use the remote standby function the main controller must be on.
The problem is this.
When in standby mode the current draw from the battery is about 500mA, if
the system is left in this state for a few days then the battery does not
have enough capacity left for the starter to crank the engine.

Question.
What is the lowest voltage/capacity that the battery can be allowed to drop
to but still be able to start the engine (12.2v seems to be the industry
standard voltage).
Finally how does the result equate to time e.g. do we have 20 hours at 500mA
or 50 hours at 500 mA before the battery capacity is to low to crank.

Battery standard lead-acid deep cycle type 100Ah.
I have some doubts that it's a deep cycle, not a starting battery.
Anyway, for optimum battery life, you don't want to take it much below
70% charge.
This is 30AH of usuable charge, or 60 hours.
To top off the battery then requires the engine to run, charging at
20A for 1.5 hours. (much faster isn't good for the battery)

If you don't care much about usable battery life, you may be able to
take out 60Ah, for around 120 hours between 3 hour charges.
(IIRC, battery longevity will around double if you only use the smaller
cycles)

Can you investigate why the control unit draws 500ma?
That's a lot of power, my laptop uses around that amount.
 
On Sun, 7 Dec 2003 10:42:47 -0000, "John" <reeferjon@msn.com> wrote:

When in standby mode the current draw from the battery is about 500mA, if
the system is left in this state for a few days then the battery does not
have enough capacity left for the starter to crank the engine.
I'm wondering if a solar panel could provide the .5 a and fix the
problem?
 
On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 00:08:27 GMT, James Meyer <jmeyer@nowhere.com>
wrote:

My old Schwin "Black Phantom" bike (I really wish I still had it) had
brake lights built in. They used a switch that sensed when the bike slowed down
(for whatever reason) and turned the light on. They used a small plastic tube
with a brass ball in it that could roll from one end to the other. The tube was
mounted horizontally with a pivot near the center. Picture a little cannon like
they show on the Bugs Bunny cartoons. The tube is capped at each end. The end
toward the front has a couple of contacts with flexible wires attached built in.
The tube has a stop under the front end so that it can't pivot all the way
level. It's still pointed up a little bit when the ball rolls toward the front
because the bike is stopping. Once the bike is still, the ball runs to the back
end again.

So simple it HAS to work.
the simpiest sollutions almost always work best IMHO ...
:)

-- Regards, SPAJKY
& visit site - http://www.spajky.vze.com
Celly-III OC-ed,"Tualatin on BX-Slot1-MoBo!"
E-mail AntiSpam: remove ##
 
"Alistair" <alistair.echlin@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:br9sq1$ncp$1@sparta.btinternet.com...
Hi there,

Senario:

I am moving house and I want to install my mini dish in the same location
as
where the previous owner has his. I know the ball park direction to face
the
dish, all I would like to know is how does the alignment work? Can I just
point it and obtain the localiser jargon and then fine tune the direction
to
get the reciever to lock onto the satellite? Or do I need to pay someone
to
come and do it for me, which I am reluctant to do as I am more than
capable
to do it myself..

Many Thanks

Alistair
If I can find my installation manual, I will post in
alt.binaries.schematics.electronics
 
"Baphomet" <no.spam@no.spam.us> wrote in message
news:vth1nt6e3tq38b@corp.supernews.com...
"Alistair" <alistair.echlin@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:br9sq1$ncp$1@sparta.btinternet.com...
Hi there,

Senario:

I am moving house and I want to install my mini dish in the same
location
as
where the previous owner has his. I know the ball park direction to face
the
dish, all I would like to know is how does the alignment work? Can I
just
point it and obtain the localiser jargon and then fine tune the
direction
to
get the reciever to lock onto the satellite? Or do I need to pay someone
to
come and do it for me, which I am reluctant to do as I am more than
capable
to do it myself..

Many Thanks

Alistair

If I can find my installation manual, I will post in
alt.binaries.schematics.electronics
Nuts. I just noticed the UK. I have Dish Network so it's probably different.
Sorry.
 
I am trying to wire and old 1920's typewriter to a modern PS/2
connection, AT computer keyboard. I plan to basically remove the
control IC from an old keyboard, and wire each keyswitch connection to
a momentary button, which is hooked to mechanical levers in the
typewriter. Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the internal
keyswitches in a standard PC keyboard. I havent been able to fiond one
online, all i keep getting is PS/2 pinouts, or the pinouts for the IC.
thanks in advance,
-Rich
Good morning, Rich. That's a cool idea, which should be quite a bit of work.
$2.50 will get you free advice and a cup of coffee at Starbucks, so for what
it's worth, a few observations....

The one time I wanted a keyboard schematic (arc-percussive welder/high noise
environment, wanted to do additional filtering of signals without
optocoupling), I had to call the keyboard manufacturer's US office and ask.
They sent one over with no problem. You might have to use the usual subterfuge
to get them to cooperate.

Communication between the PC and the keyboard is accomplished through a
proprietary serial communication protocol. The original IBM PC had a dedicated
Intel peripheral chip to accomplish this, and the AT and later keyboards use a
dedicated microcontroller IC in the keyboard which reads the key matrix and
then communicates the results to the PC. Since there aren't individual outputs
for each of the keys, you can't get there directly from the keyboard. Even if
you were to disable/remove the microcontroller and just run directly off the
individual keyswitches, the 102 keys are read by the microcontroller in a
matrix, so you will need to manufacture a scanner circuit to read the keyboard
matrix and translate the signals to individual outputs. For a hobbyist
project, this doesn't look too hopeful.

But, there are ways to get the cool effect you're looking for. First, I would
look at the IBM Selectrics (II and newer). They have a data port in the back,
where you can control the typewriter with outside logic level signals. A
friend did a PC/Selectric typewriter interface about 20 years ago, and was
happy with the results. A standard digital I/O board such as the Measurement
Computing CIO-DIO-48 ($119.99 USD) would be just about all you'd have to buy.
You could put that card in an old PC, sweat out the comm I/O and timing issues
in the programming flavor of choice, and you're good to go.

If you _really_ want to use individual solenoids to flip the levers, you might
want to try getting a couple of CIO-DO48-DD boards from Measurement Computing
($199.00 USD ea.). Each output can drive up to 500mA at 50VDC, which should be
enough for small solenoids (you're going to need a lot of those, too, but
that's another story). Slap those in an old PC, wire 'em up, program, and
you're done.

There are a lot of very difficult mechanical issues involved in getting enough
electrical solenoids into such a small space as the underside of an old
Underwood. The earliest electric typewriters were bulky, balky, and quickly
junked as better ones became available. Pretty steep learning curve there.

Summary:
1) Very difficult to do this without some kind of computer between the keyboard
and the typewriter.
2) Cool effect possible with IBM Selectric II or III.

Good luck.
Chris
 
Junkmail789 wrote:
This is not a binaries newsgroup. You can post images to
news:alt.binaries.schematics.electronic by attaching it as a GIF, JPEG,
or other common image file. Then, post a message here giving the name
of the post. If you try to post a binary file here, most people will
never see it.
--
4 days!


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
The way I see it, you are looking for a 500mS period. If you want to keep
your 10uF cap then you will need a total resistance of 50Kohms. So, use a
50K pot for R2 and throw in a 1K resistor for R1.

Craig
 
On Mon, 22 Dec 2003 00:38:52 -0800, "Ed Price" <edprice@cox.net>
wrote:
the "resonant circuit" you ask about is a simple LC
parallel circuit, sometimes called a "tank" circuit.
Is there another "name" also for serial resonant LC circuit or is just
called serial "tank" circ.?

-- Regards, MERRY CHRISTMAS & HAPPY NEW YEAR, SPAJKY ÂŽ
& visit my site @ http://www.spajky.vze.com
Celly-III OC-ed,"Tualatin on BX-Slot1-MoBo!"
E-mail AntiSpam: remove ##
 
Hello,

Does anyone know what sort of peak or sustained current Superior Electric
Supercon(tm) connectors can carry if they are *not* asked to interrupt a
live circuit?

See: http://www.newark.com/product-details/text/CD121/9942.html

I need them to carry 12VDC, 75A pulses at a duty cycle less than 25% and
will *not* disconnect while hot. The 100 amp connectors look to me to be
gross overkill, and I'm wondering if the 50 or 25 amp units can handle this
current?

I've had no luck finding a data sheet for these on-line. Given the holidays,
it'd be a while before I could order one up from Superior, so thought I'd
ask here.

Thanks,

Mike D.
Hi, Mike. Supercons are not made to interrupt a live circuit -- their rating
isn't like switches, which have a switching current rating and a holding
current rating. It's basically just I^2*t here. The peak heating power being
dissipated by the resistance of the connector contact is a function of the
square of the current, so if you're going to have 3 times current or nine times
power, it should be a duty cycle of around 11%. That would technically put
your 25A Supercons out of the running, but would open up room for the 50s --
1.5^2 * .25 duty cycle = .55 rated power. The good, conservative choice would
be the 50A Supercons.

Having said that, I don't see much of a practical problem with what you're
doing, unless this is for a medical or life support application.You're getting
them new, you're going to keep them in a relatively cool non-humid environment,
you're going to keep the pin and receptacle clean and burnished, right? Also,
you're not going to be going crazy with a lot of insertion/extraction cycles,
right? That degrades the contact resistance of the receptacles as much as
anything else.

Give yourself points for these things. Seriously, I've seen Supercons fail
(charring/discoloration of receptacle plastic is usually a good sign), and
usually the culprit is at least one of the above along with high current. New
and with only a reasonable number of insertion cycles, they're way underrated
at 25A.

Go for it, and Merry Christmas.
Chris
 
"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:uh9juv00rn8q7rsk6e130ea1khrfg49h7s@4ax.com...
I hope you all have a wonderful Christmas!

--
John Fields

Merry Xmas to you too, and everyone at s.e.* and a.b.s.e

Best wishes from cold and cloudy Liverpool, UK.

Costas
 
And a cheerful Bah, humbug to you as well Win!

-Chuck

Winfield Hill wrote:
John Fields wrote...

I hope you all have a wonderful Christmas!


Bah, humbug!

Thanks,
- Win

whill_at_picovolt-dot-com
 
Chuck Harris wrote...
Winfield Hill wrote:
John Fields wrote...

I hope you all have a wonderful Christmas!

Bah, humbug!

And a cheerful Bah, humbug to you as well Win!
---------- (seen on Groklaw)

From me (hereinafter referred to as "the wishor") to you (hereinafter
referred to as the "wishee") Please accept without obligation, except as
stated herein, implied or implicit, my best wishes for an environmentally
conscious, socially responsible, politically correct, low stress, non-
addictive, gender neutral, celebration of the winter solstice holiday,
practiced within the most enjoyable traditions of the religious persuasion
of your choice, or secular practices of your choice, with respect for the
religious/secular persuasions and/or traditions of others, or their choice
not to practice religious or secular traditions at all, and a financially
successful, personally fulfilling and medically uncomplicated recognition
of the onset of the generally accepted calendar year 2001, but with due
respect for the calendars of choice of other cultures or sects, and having
regard to the race, creed, color, age, physical ability, religious faith,
choice of computer platform or dietary preference of the wishee.

By accepting this greeting you are bound by these terms:

1. This greeting is subject to further clarification or withdrawal.

2. This greeting is freely transferable provided that no alteration shall
be made to the original greeting and that the proprietary rights of the
wishor are acknowledged.

3. This greeting is communicated "as is" and implies no promise by the
wishor to actually implement any of the wishes, nor does it create any
warranties of any kind, except as expressly stated herein.

4. This greeting may not be enforceable in certain jurisdictions and/or
the restrictions herein may not be binding upon certain wishees in certain
jurisdictions and is revocable at the sole discretion of the wishor.

5. This greeting is warranted to perform as reasonably may be expected
within the usual application of good tidings, for a period of one year or
until the issuance of a subsequent holiday greeting, whichever comes first.

6. The wishor warrants this greeting only for the limited replacement of
this wish or issuance of a new wish at the sole discretion of the wishor.

7. Any references in this greeting to "the Lord", "Father Christmas",
"Our Savior", or any other festive figures, whether real or fictitious,
dead or alive, shall not imply any endorsement by or from them in respect
of this greeting, and all proprietary rights in any referenced third
party's names and images are hereby acknowledged.

Thanks,
- Win

whill_at_picovolt-dot-com
 
Yes, a local legal firm wished me, but did not imply or guarantee, a Merry
Christmas. Merry Christmas to all.

Cheers!

Chip Shults
My robotics, space and CGI web page - http://home.cfl.rr.com/aichip
 
In sci.electronics.design, Winfield Hill
<Winfield_member@newsguy.com> wrote:

Chuck Harris wrote...

Winfield Hill wrote:
John Fields wrote...

I hope you all have a wonderful Christmas!

Bah, humbug!

And a cheerful Bah, humbug to you as well Win!

---------- (seen on Groklaw)

From me (hereinafter referred to as "the wishor") to you (hereinafter
referred to as the "wishee") Please accept without obligation, except as
stated herein, implied or implicit, my best wishes for an environmentally
conscious, socially responsible, politically correct, low stress, non-
Gee, this is much better than the one I posted...

addictive, gender neutral, celebration of the winter solstice holiday,
practiced within the most enjoyable traditions of the religious persuasion
of your choice, or secular practices of your choice, with respect for the
religious/secular persuasions and/or traditions of others, or their choice
not to practice religious or secular traditions at all, and a financially
successful, personally fulfilling and medically uncomplicated recognition
of the onset of the generally accepted calendar year 2001, but with due
What a ripoff, this is a recycled, three-year-old greeting license!

I changed the date to 2004 and forwarded it to my favorite mailing
list.

respect for the calendars of choice of other cultures or sects, and having
regard to the race, creed, color, age, physical ability, religious faith,
choice of computer platform or dietary preference of the wishee.

By accepting this greeting you are bound by these terms:

...

2. This greeting is freely transferable provided that no alteration shall
be made to the original greeting and that the proprietary rights of the
wishor are acknowledged.
Yeah, I changed the date and forwarded it (without attribution,
even) just like I said above, so sue me...

5. This greeting is warranted to perform as reasonably may be expected
within the usual application of good tidings, for a period of one year or
until the issuance of a subsequent holiday greeting, whichever comes first.
In plain English that means "Sorry, this greeting has expired."

...

Thanks,
- Win

whill_at_picovolt-dot-com
-----
http://mindspring.com/~benbradley
 
Ben Bradley wrote...
Winfield wrote:

... onset of the generally accepted calendar year 2001 ...

5. This greeting is warranted to perform as reasonably may be expected
within the usual application of good tidings, for a period of one year or
until the issuance of a subsequent holiday greeting, whichever comes first.

In plain English that means "Sorry, this greeting has expired."
Right, it's much safer to promulgate a legal document with a
rock-solid disclaimer that invalidates the whole thing. :>)

Thanks,
- Win

whill_at_picovolt-dot-com
 

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