Chip with simple program for Toy

Ed Edmondson wrote:
Where can I find the information which would allow me to determine what type
and values of resistors I would need to scale this 30 volt meter to 3,000
volts?

Somewhere I have seen some formula which tells you how. All I know is that I
need a precision (2%) non-inductive set of high voltage resistors to accomplish
this task.
Any help here?

Thanks,
Ed
Ed Edmondson
Alamosa, CO
ee0035jr@aol.com
This is either troll or a very incomplete question? However ....

Two things; and assuming for the moment we are talking, for
illustrative purposes, about a D'arsonval (galvanometer) type
meter?

1) You need to know how much current the meter needs to deflect;
normally this is stated as fsd (full scale deflection). After
that it's a simple ohm's law calculation.

For example: Let's suppose your meter needs one milliamp (10 to
the minus 3 amps; or 0.001 amp) to deflect fully to read 30
volts.

Then; your 30 volt meter resistance currently is 30/0.001 =
30,000 ohms. OK so far? Another way is to say is that the meter
is a "One thousand ohms per volt" model.

So, for 3,000 volts you will need 3,000 x 1000 ohms = total
resistance of 3,000,000 ( 3 million) ohms. Since you already have
30,000 ohms you will need to add 3,000,000 - 30,000 = 2,970,000
ohms (2.97 megohms).

That's the simple answer.

2) But, it depends what type of equipment you are measuring. An
item that operates at 3000 volts may have a very limited capacity
to provide enough current for the meter to measure accurately! It
all depends on the circuitry of what is being measured.

Something 'heavy' like the HT of a radio transmitter, or perhaps
a microwave oven (For goodness sake be careful those voltages can
kill you! Quite apart from being cooked or cancer induced by
radio or microwaves; especially if you are not a technically
competent electronics person) probably wouldn't even notice one
extra milliamp for the voltmeter.

But if that meter was used to measure a circuit only capable of
supplying, let's say for the sake of example, one milliamp total?
Then when the voltmeter was attached, the available current would
be split and the apparent voltage would probably read,
erroneously, at around 1500 volts or less!

So better learn the basics of all electrical work which is Ohm's
Law. And, at 3000 volts, 'Be careful out there'. And, again, it
depends on the voltmeter AND the circuit you are measuring. Oh
and by the way are you talking AC or DC voltage? They can be very
different kettles of fish.

Your question reads rather along the lines of "How much gas will
my car use ..... ?" Without specifying the size or fuel
consumption of the engine, how far to travel etc. OK?

Terry.
 
Bob Masta wrote:
Here's a puzzler:

I recently had the bake (lower) element go bad in
my electric oven. For a couple of weeks prior to
actual failure, you could see a bright spot a few
inches from one end. I noticed that it was in about
the same spot as the last element that failed,
about 10 years ago. I mentioned this to the
guy in the appliance parts store, and he said
"Yeah, they all usually fail a few inches from
the end."

The failure spot doesn't appear to be in a
point of high mechanical stress. There are
gentle bends near it (different on the two
elements that I have), but the failure is in
a straight spot... and there are other, much
more severe bends elsewhere.

The element is mechanically attached only by
the ends. There are supports in the long
straight stretch farthest from the ends, but
they are skids, so they don't impose any stress.

My only thought so far is that maybe this is some
sort of temperature or expansion gradient effect.
Closer to the end there might be a higher gradient,
but the actual temperature would be lower. Farther
out the temperature might be higher, but less
gradient.

Does this seem reasonable? Any other ideas?
(I'm assuming that this is not due to a built-in
failure point so Chromalox can sell more elements. <g>)

Bob Masta
tech(AT)daqarta(DOT)com

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
Shareware from Interstellar Research
www.daqarta.com
Nah. That's too suspicious. Some oven elements burn out
eventually, more often the lower (baking) one; because IMO they
get more use than the broil elements in top of oven.
But gosh, it's now five/six years since I've had to replace one
and we have four cooking stove ovens, two in a school canteen
both used daily for several hours.
Top elements go too often in same manner; a hot spot then
failure. Although, we usually change those before they get unsafe
(metal pan in contact with element etc.), again it's infrequent.
Much in the same way that my car low beams seem to get more use
and seem to burn out more frequently than high beams. And we have
never had to replace the heating element in our dishwasher.
Considering price pretty reliable stuff. In your life time you
may replace, say, three oven elements?
And to comment; yes I suppose that at some point the temperature
must change from the red heat within the oven to something much
lower where the element connects to the wiring in back of the
oven.
Good luck.
 
"capitano" <sdfsdf@Fsdfsdf.sfdsdf> wrote in message
news:bftpq002d0t@enews4.newsguy.com...
I have found a pic programmer called Picstart Plus on the cpc website

http://custom1.farnell.com/cpc/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CPC+Catalogue&product%5Fid=SC0122566

Does anyone know if I can use this device to program microchip controllers.

Does it connect to a PC computer at all, if so, is it USB or serial ?

In the details we have "Connects directly to Programmer ZIF socket"
which programmer ? Do I need to buy a programmer as well, or is
this the programmer ?

Thanks.




I think you need a programmer for that. This appears to be an add-on. If you
want a good programmer that can handle many PICs, visit:

http://www.crownhill.co.uk/

They have a programmer called ePIC. I've been using it for a long time with
no problems. Plugs in PCs parallel port. There are many others out there,
and probably cheaper too, but make sure they can support a wide range of
PICs.

Costas
 
capitano wrote:

I have found a pic programmer called Picstart Plus on the cpc
website http://custom1.farnell.com/cpc/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CPC+Catalogue&product%5Fid=SC0122566

Does anyone know if I can use this device to program microchip
controllers. Does it connect to a PC computer at all, if so, is it USB or
serial ? In the details we have "Connects directly to Programmer ZIF
socket"which programmer ? Do I need to buy a programmer as well, or isthis the
programmer ? Thanks.
This is not a Picstart Plus, this is an "ISPICR1 In Circuit PIC Programmer"
*for* the Picstart Plus.
The Picstart Plus is *the* development programmer for PICs.
http://www.microchip.com/1000/pline/tools/picmicro/program/picstart/index.htm
The Picstart Plus is a development programmer where you stick the DIP chip on
the programmer, and then you put the PIC in the board.
Now, before you ask, a 'development' programmer is designed to program a chip
once in a while, while you are designing a product. This is opposed to a
'production' programmer, which can program a bunch of chips at the same time, in
great volume. Of course, they both end up programming the chip, but guess which
one is cheaper?
So the ISPICR plugs into the Picstart Plus and brings the signals out to the
target board, so you can program the chip while still on the board, and program
chips in packages other than DIP.
 
On Fri, 25 Jul 2003 21:52:06 +0100, "John Jardine"
<john@jjdesigns.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:


Never seen any on the web but regularly use a few from a set of 30 that
Wireless World magazine published in the late fourties?.
They called them "Nomographs" and are printed as vertical sections of
special purpose slide rules. Just use a straight edge to connect a set of
variable 'scales' together.
Yes they are useful. Repetitive calculations such as 'power dissapation' or
'diameter of wire to give minimum RF resistance' are a ball ache to
constantly run through on a calculator keypad.
IIRC, there's one in the back of the ARRL Handbook for relating
freqency, capacitance and inductance in tuned circuits. It's actually
very useful.
--

"I believe history will be kind to me, since I intend
to write it." - Winston Churchill
 
On Sat, 26 Jul 2003 01:45:02 -0400, "Troy Lane" <t_lane@bellsouth.net>
wrote:

Save Up To 80% Off Retail!
www.fastlanedistributors.com
"Blowout" has bad connotations as regards electronics.

John
 
Best thing to do if he is uncooperative is to notify the police and have him
cited for disturbing the peace. They can at least bang on his door and scare
him a little.


"Arthur Jernberg" <stubby@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:MF2dnZk17-Es1oOiXTWJhg@comcast.com...
Problem is, whatever means you try to produce an electronic signal to jam
his reception makes you legally responsible for producing said signal.
Since
you are doing it with a preumpetive reason to cause vendictely limit
another's ability to view public television he will have legal right to
charge you with an offence, let alone anyone else in the area that is
affected. It may be better to just discuss with him the situation and
ask
to have the sound level reduced when watching his tele, that is unless you
have caused a situation already that will limit your ability to openly
converse with him. Cheers
"gothika" <gothika@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:84vmhvcltn3e3apdd1lm959ie38ij9vnga@4ax.com...
I'm no expert but if he's watching something in the uhf/vhf band seems
what you need is a rf generator that can match frequency with what
ever channel he's watching then an amp to boost the signal to jam
strength and something to produce raster or even some really
irritating noise.(audio and video.)
If he pulling the signal through a vcr and using the rf out this makes
your task easier as all vcrs output the signal through channel 3 or 4.
(just buy a small rf modulator and a rf amp with enough guts to jam
the rf modulator in his vcr.
Some of the more technical savvy here can give you more precise
details.

On 15 Jun 2003 14:04:28 GMT, melaniegree64694@aol.com
(Melaniegree64694) wrote:

Hi
I have a neighbour who watches terrestrial television at a loud
volume
into
the early hours. It's very annoying I have asked him to turn it down to
no
avail. Is there a simple jamming device I can make to turn his telly
into
a
snowstorm and get good nights sleep? I have noticed that some vehicles
if
they
have faulty electrics can produce this effect. Can I replicate this
with
an
electric motor or such like?

Mel
 
On Sat, 26 Jul 2003 17:07:58 -0400, "Ziguy"
<robertlatour54@hotmail.NOSPAM.com> wrote:

I need to calculate the Inside to ambiant thermal resistance of a small
plastic box filled with potted resin... How do I calculate that, what're the
properties needed?

Thanks

Or if you know some good links on the subjet...
First, you have to define "inside". There is some internal object to
be cooled, and - assuming it's isothermal - its shape and dimensions
matter. So its relationship to the outside of the box will be complex.
There are basicly no affordable software tools to model a 3-d heat
transfer situation like this; it's a lot easier to experiment.

John
 
What is better in term of heat dissipation: A TO220 in free air inside a
closed box or a TO220 sunk in a box full of resin?

From inside, I wanted to say from the TO220 case surface! The box is
rectangular, 2.25" x 1.75" x 0.75" and will contain a 2" x 1.5" PCB.

Thanks


"John Larkin" <jjlarkin@highlandSNIPtechTHISnologyPLEASE.com> a écrit dans
le message de news:so16iv858nigel86frn1h2f6gqlv13l0q0@4ax.com...
On Sat, 26 Jul 2003 17:07:58 -0400, "Ziguy"
robertlatour54@hotmail.NOSPAM.com> wrote:

I need to calculate the Inside to ambiant thermal resistance of a small
plastic box filled with potted resin... How do I calculate that, what're
the
properties needed?

Thanks

Or if you know some good links on the subjet...


First, you have to define "inside". There is some internal object to
be cooled, and - assuming it's isothermal - its shape and dimensions
matter. So its relationship to the outside of the box will be complex.
There are basicly no affordable software tools to model a 3-d heat
transfer situation like this; it's a lot easier to experiment.

John
 
Ziguy wrote:
What is better in term of heat dissipation: A TO220 in free air inside a
closed box or a TO220 sunk in a box full of resin?

the box full of resin


--
Achilles: I wish my wish would not be granted.
< an undescribable event occurs >
Achilles: What happened? Where's my Genie?
Tortoise: Our context got restored incorrectly.
Achilles: What does that cryptic comment mean?
Tortoise: The system crashed.


To email me send to :

rb <my last name> AT ieee DOT org
 
Ziguy wrote:
I need to calculate the Inside to ambiant thermal resistance of a small
plastic box filled with potted resin... How do I calculate that, what're the
properties needed?
As a first approximation, you can take the resin
filled box as all the same temperature and the
thermal resistance from the case to the air
will determine the box/resin temperature.

Achilles: I wish my wish would not be granted.
< an undescribable event occurs >
Achilles: What happened? Where's my Genie?
Tortoise: Our context got restored incorrectly.
Achilles: What does that cryptic comment mean?
Tortoise: The system crashed.


To email me send to :

rb <my last name> AT ieee DOT org
 
On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 02:46:33 +0000 (UTC), "Costas Vlachos"
<c-X-vlachos@hot-X-mail.com> Gave us:

"Ziguy" <robertlatour54@hotmail.NOSPAM.com> wrote in message
news:3JEUa.13731$Wh.1371784@news20.bellglobal.com...
What is better in term of heat dissipation: A TO220 in free air inside a
closed box or a TO220 sunk in a box full of resin?

From inside, I wanted to say from the TO220 case surface! The box is
rectangular, 2.25" x 1.75" x 0.75" and will contain a 2" x 1.5" PCB.

Thanks



There are special epoxy encapsulants that are thermally conductive. I've
used them for potting temperature sensors in heatsinks with excellent
results. Try these:

Electrolube ER2074 (thermal conductivity: 1.26 W/mK)
Robnor RX700K/BK (thermal conductivity: 1.00 W/mK)

The first one is milky white colour, the second one is black.

Costas

Stycast 2850 Is fine, and available in pints. A higher conductivity
version is available at a much higher cost, and contains huge grains
of a crystalline substance.

Actually, just about any good, strong epoxy will work good as a
conduction cooling design on a package that small with a single
transistor device in it.

Be sure to optimize your design for minimal dissipation in the
device first.
 
"Ziguy" <robertlatour54@hotmail.NOSPAM.com> wrote in message
news:3JEUa.13731$Wh.1371784@news20.bellglobal.com...
What is better in term of heat dissipation: A TO220 in free air inside a
closed box or a TO220 sunk in a box full of resin?

From inside, I wanted to say from the TO220 case surface! The box is
rectangular, 2.25" x 1.75" x 0.75" and will contain a 2" x 1.5" PCB.

Thanks


There are special epoxy encapsulants that are thermally conductive. I've
used them for potting temperature sensors in heatsinks with excellent
results. Try these:

Electrolube ER2074 (thermal conductivity: 1.26 W/mK)
Robnor RX700K/BK (thermal conductivity: 1.00 W/mK)

The first one is milky white colour, the second one is black.

Costas
 
In article <3JEUa.13731$Wh.1371784@news20.bellglobal.com>,
Ziguy <robertlatour54@hotmail.NOSPAM.com> wrote:

What is better in term of heat dissipation: A TO220 in free air
inside a closed box or a TO220 sunk in a box full of resin?

From inside, I wanted to say from the TO220 case surface! The box
is rectangular, 2.25" x 1.75" x 0.75" and will contain a 2" x
1.5" PCB.
I did a similar experiment many years ago (too many!).
300mW plastic transistors in free air, and then potted
in epoxy resin, in a plastic box about 1x1x0.4 inches.

Vbe measurements showed that the transistors required
about 4x the power to reach the same junction temperature.

--
Tony Williams.
 
On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 17:42:53 +0800, Dave Baker <dpbaker@streamyx.com>
Gave us:

On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 02:46:33 +0000 (UTC), "Costas Vlachos"
c-X-vlachos@hot-X-mail.com> wrote:

There are special epoxy encapsulants that are thermally conductive. I've
used them for potting temperature sensors in heatsinks with excellent
results. Try these:

Electrolube ER2074 (thermal conductivity: 1.26 W/mK)
Robnor RX700K/BK (thermal conductivity: 1.00 W/mK)

3M has some available through RS.
1.256 W/mC

Damn expensive at US$43 for 50mL though! The other downside is that it can't
be air-freighted, so I have to wait a week for the truck to arrive from
Singapore. So, I'm interested to hear that just ordinary epoxy might be good
enough at dissipating heat - maybe I'll try that instead.

Dave

Liquid steel is a good choice. Remember that even a good RTV can
dissipate quickly enough to be good (not the tube/squeese kind, it
must be able to be vacuumed). It would also be serviceable with RTV
whereas epoxies usually mean you get one shot at the device, when it
goes, the whole module is gone. It all depends on how hot you are
getting it as well though. A poorer epoxy may do the job, but will
be hotter in the overall, even though it would or may still be within
operating specs for the device.

Look for the "stycast" stuff, it is pretty cheap. That same 50
bucks would probably get you a full pint of it. Enough for a couple
dozen boxes that size at least. Most distributors want you to be a
company, so you may have to worm your way to a "sample" purchase.

Emerson & Cummings is one.
 
On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 06:21:47 +0100, Tony Williams
<tonyw@ledelec.demon.co.uk> Gave us:

I did a similar experiment many years ago (too many!).
300mW plastic transistors in free air, and then potted
in epoxy resin, in a plastic box about 1x1x0.4 inches.

Vbe measurements showed that the transistors required
about 4x the power to reach the same junction temperature.

You failed to say which method produced the higher factor.
Doh!
 
X-No-Archive: Yes



Costas Vlachos wrote:

Electrolube ER2074 (thermal conductivity: 1.26 W/mK)
Robnor RX700K/BK (thermal conductivity: 1.00 W/mK)

The first one is milky white colour, the second one is black.
There's also MG Chemicals stuff:
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/832tc.html

How good do you want the conductivity to be? You can also melt some tar in a
soda can and pour it in. Many electronic ballasts and transformers are potted
this way.
 
"Philippe Signoret" <philippe_signoret@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8d1b98ae.0307262224.7207b640@posting.google.com...
Is there a simple circuit (or IC) that can be built to counter act a
short circuit?
I am talking about something that will cut off power if there is a
short circuit.

For example, I can get +5vdc from a disc drive power cable inside the
computer, but if I short it I have to restart the computer, and I am
sure it is not good for the computer.

Is there a way to cut off power for my circuit connected to the
computer?

I hope you understood me somewhat, I found this very difficult to
explain without an image.

Thanks in advance,
Philippe Signoret
hi philippe
if the normal current that you intend to take off the 5V supply is small
i.e. <200mA, then i would suggest a 1 Ohm 1/4 watt flameproof / fusible
resistor, or a simple wire fuse, either connected in series with your
circuit (in the + 5V) would be better than nothing.
bob
 
"crooksie" <burbeck@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:tsTUa.436$qb2.518060@newsfep1-win.server.ntli.net...
"Philippe Signoret" <philippe_signoret@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8d1b98ae.0307262224.7207b640@posting.google.com...
Is there a simple circuit (or IC) that can be built to counter act a
short circuit?
I am talking about something that will cut off power if there is a
short circuit.

For example, I can get +5vdc from a disc drive power cable inside the
computer, but if I short it I have to restart the computer, and I am
sure it is not good for the computer.

Is there a way to cut off power for my circuit connected to the
computer?

I hope you understood me somewhat, I found this very difficult to
explain without an image.

Thanks in advance,
Philippe Signoret

hi philippe
if the normal current that you intend to take off the 5V supply is small
i.e. <200mA, then i would suggest a 1 Ohm 1/4 watt flameproof / fusible
resistor, or a simple wire fuse, either connected in series with your
circuit (in the + 5V) would be better than nothing.
bob
or even something like this

http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/browse/Module.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0575043716.1059325374@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccdadcimemkmhlcfngcfkmdgkldfhf.0&cacheID=ukie&3236
778259=3236778259&catoid=-84755791
 
"crooksie" <burbeck@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8ETUa.444$qb2.519704@newsfep1-win.server.ntli.net...
"crooksie" <burbeck@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:tsTUa.436$qb2.518060@newsfep1-win.server.ntli.net...

"Philippe Signoret" <philippe_signoret@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8d1b98ae.0307262224.7207b640@posting.google.com...
Is there a simple circuit (or IC) that can be built to counter act a
short circuit?
I am talking about something that will cut off power if there is a
short circuit.

For example, I can get +5vdc from a disc drive power cable inside the
computer, but if I short it I have to restart the computer, and I am
sure it is not good for the computer.

Is there a way to cut off power for my circuit connected to the
computer?

I hope you understood me somewhat, I found this very difficult to
explain without an image.

Thanks in advance,
Philippe Signoret

hi philippe
if the normal current that you intend to take off the 5V supply is small
i.e. <200mA, then i would suggest a 1 Ohm 1/4 watt flameproof / fusible
resistor, or a simple wire fuse, either connected in series with your
circuit (in the + 5V) would be better than nothing.
bob
or even something like this


http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/browse/Module.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0575043716.1059325374@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccdadcimemkmhlcfngcfkmdgkldfhf.0&cacheID=ukie&3236
778259=3236778259&catoid=-84755791

sorry bad link try this
http://ps.circuitprotection.com/docs/LVRds.Final.pdf
 

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