Chip with simple program for Toy

It will work, but its not too practical for practical audio
measurements. A good meter will have "weighted scales" to compensate
for the hearing of our ears.
How much will it deviate from a real db meter due to the unweighted
scales?
 
In article <JkfRa.162$m53.25656@petpeeve.ziplink.net>,
<foobear@foobar.com> wrote:
-Byron A Jeff <byron@cc.gatech.edu> wrote:
-> In article <3zqQa.158$m53.25256@petpeeve.ziplink.net>,
-> <foobear@foobar.com> wrote:
-> -Hello folks,
-> -
-> -I'm trying to program a 16f84 PIC by Microchip with the PICALL Programmer.
-> -I'm using the PICALL Programmer Software as well v0.14
-
-> An aside: once you get rolling you'll definitely want to take a look at newer
-> members of the PIC family. They are much better and much cheaper than the
-> 16F84. These include the 16F628 and the 16F819. Definitely worth checking out.
-
-Thanks, I'll keep that in mind
-
-[snip]
-
-> -The programmer hardware and software _seems_ to work. I can read data
-> -off it (although there is no real data on these blank chips), and erase
-> -them without error. But when I try loading code on there or verifying
-> -it using the 'Verify' option with PICALL I get errors such as
-> -
-> -Verify Error
-> -Program: addres=0000 buffer=2810 device=3fff
-> -
-> -Would this indicate a problem with the code, or something else?
-
-> A problem with the programmer. the 3fff from the device indicates that nothing
-> has been programmed.
-
-Do you mean the programmer software or hardware?
-I've tried 2 different hardware programers and have received the same
-kind of error messages.

Either. Both. Don't know. Could be the interface. It's a parallel port
programmer right? It could be the parallel port.


-
-> -I've tried some hex dumps off some pic sites and I also tried compiling
-> -simple code using gpasm under GNU/Linux and I tried the P84 compiler by
-> -Charles Manning that came bundled with a DIY programmer kit 117
-
-> Not relevant in this case. It's the programmer/programmer software/hardware
-> interface, not the code.
-
-I just thought this might be the case because I can verify and program
-the unit where there is no code in the softwares program buffer, or
-at least I dont gett any error messages. Well I will stop looking at the
-code for problems then and concentrate on something else.

That doesn't mean anything. A clear programmer buffer won't try to program
anything into the chip. A faulty programmer generally will read all 1's. The
end result is that even if the chip and/or programmer is faulty, it will
often read/verify as being OK because it's blank.

-
-
-> -Does anyone have any simple 16f84 code I could try using to test out this
-> -programmer? (in hex if possible) or maybe some hints as to what I should try
-
-> I general I find the keys are doublechecking the pin assignments on Tait style
-> programmers. However I'm not sure how the PICALL is laid out.
-
-Here is a link to the PICALL schematic if you care to take a look.
-Is the PICALL a Tait style programmer?
-
-
-> -If this is off topic here, I apologize.
-
-> This is as good a place as any. There's a lot of discussion of PICs in
-> comp.arch.embedded. Also the PICLIST is an invaluable resource. You can
-> get started at http://www.piclist.com. Finally since you using Linux then
-> the resources at my TLVP site (linked from the 16F628 page above) and the
-> gnupic project, which has gpasm, are also useful.
-
-This looks like it will be very useful once/if I can get past this initial
-hurdle. Thank you.

Take my advise. Take an hour an put together one of my trivial programmers
(since you have 16F84 parts you'll have to build the HVP programmer here:

http://www.finitesite.com/d3jsys/proghvp.html )

Test it with David Tait's FPP under windows, or use my version of picprg 2.3d
under Linux. You can find it on my Trivial Programmer site.

One nice feature of picprg 2.3d is that it'll autodetect the chip in the
socket. It's a good debugging feature because if it doesn't autodetect you
can be sure that there's a hardware or config error to work on before trying
to program.

Hope this helps,

BAJ
 
Byron A Jeff <byron@cc.gatech.edu> wrote:
Take my advise. Take an hour an put together one of my trivial programmers
(since you have 16F84 parts you'll have to build the HVP programmer here:
http://www.finitesite.com/d3jsys/proghvp.html )
I will certainly do that, although I'm still learning to read schemtics.
I just really wanted to use the PICALL since I invested money in it already :)

Test it with David Tait's FPP under windows, or use my version of picprg 2.3d
under Linux. You can find it on my Trivial Programmer site.

One nice feature of picprg 2.3d is that it'll autodetect the chip in the
socket. It's a good debugging feature because if it doesn't autodetect you
can be sure that there's a hardware or config error to work on before trying
to program.
I downloaded this and compiled it already. It looks nice.

Thanks
-v
 
Another question comes to mind:
Why do we need the capacitor of 0.47uF near the microphone.
The impedance of this capacitor is 3K at 1000Hz, 30K at
100Hz, 150K at 20Hz, so it will have some effect on the lower
frequecies, is that what we need?
 
On Sun, 13 Jul 2003 15:29:05 -0500, John Fields
<jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 18:27:51 -0700, baywood
baywood@drizzle.invalid.com> wrote:

What I have been looking for is a circuit for a switch that operates
at a set relative humidity. Essentially I need a 5% RH range with one
fan turning on at the low end and another at the high end of the
range. I'll be working with 12VDC and the fans draw 130mA each. My
knowledge of electronics is pretty limited. It seems most RH sensors
are based on capacitance (e.g.
http://www.kollar.com/observatory/cloud2/691901.pdf) and I have no
idea of how to build a switch based on capacitance. Anything pointing
me in the right direction would be appreciated.

---
They're based on capacitance, but you can get them with a DC ouput
voltage which varies with relative humidity, so all you'd need would be
a couple of comparators to determine the fan setpoints. Check this out:

http://content.honeywell.com/sensing/prodinfo/humiditymoisture/
Thanks for the pointer to comparators. I had looked at sensors with
voltage output, all the ones I found were significantly more expensive
(esp. the honeywell's)...looks like
http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/Comparators.html will get me going
with comparators.
 
Time-delay relays are available in on-delay and off-delay versions.
On-delay provides a delay between the time the switch is turned on and the time
that power is applied to the device being controlled.
Off-delay provides a delay between the time the switch is turned off and the
time power is removed from the device being controlled.
These relays are available in fixed delay (30 seconds, 5 minutes, etc) and
adjustable delay versions.

You need an off-delay unit that matches the voltage and current specifications
of the unit you are controlling and provides the proper time delay.

This will require some re-wiring and is not an "easy" answer. Since you are
working with mains voltage, find someone knowledgeable to do the wiring or help
you with it.

Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net> wrote:

I have a switch that cuts the power to 2 different AC circuits. I need
one of those two to stay on for a few seconds after the other is off.
Is there some easy circuit to do this. The current requirements are
about 15A at 110V
More about me: http://thelabwiz.home.mindspring.com/
VB3 source code: http://thelabwiz.home.mindspring.com/vbsource.html
VB6 source code: http://thelabwiz.home.mindspring.com/vb6source.html
VB6 - MySQL how to: http://thelabwiz.home.mindspring.com/mysql.html
Drivers for Pablo graphics tablet and JamCam cameras: http://home.earthlink.net/~mwbt/
johnecarter atat mindspring dotdot com. Fix the obvious to reply by email.
 
<foobear@foobar.com> wrote in message
news:B55Ra.161$m53.25686@petpeeve.ziplink.net...
John Jardine <john@jjdesigns.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:

foobear@foobar.com> wrote in message
news:3zqQa.158$m53.25256@petpeeve.ziplink.net...
[clip]

I'm actually feeding 18v. The green LED comes on, anad one of the red
ones as well. The interesting thing is I get the same type of errors
with the PICALL programmer, and P16PRO programmer (kit 81v4).

I've also tried 2 different 16f84 chips. The self tests and the cable
tests run ok. and the 'Erase' and 'Read' functions work ok. If I have
no code in the PICALL software buffer (program memory all reads 3fff)
'Verify' and 'Program' work but as soon as I load some code in the
PICALL software buffer and the Verify or Program I get those errors.

I thought I built my first programmer (kit81) wrong. so I got the PICALL
programmer and the same errors occur :(


P.S What would happen if the fuses for code protection were blown on these
chips?




-v
(Mine's the P16PRO and I've just tried a 16F84, blank, programmed and with
empty and full buffer and various fuses.)

The Red Led should only flash on when you do a 'read' or 'verify' or
'programme' etc.

Blown fuses have no effect on the workings. It'll still programme.
For the fuses I used Oscillator='XT'. WatchDog timer ='OFF'. powerup timer
='OFF'. Code Protect='OFF'

The only time I can get near to your problem is when I stick the 16F84 in
the wrong place in the 40 pin socket.
The PIC needs to be at the *bottom* of the socket. Not the IC Pin 1= socket
pin 1 position.
regards
john
 
Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net> wrote in message news:<3F1583B7.DE6DF9C8@cox.net>...
I have a switch that cuts the power to 2 different AC circuits. I need
one of those two to stay on for a few seconds after the other is off.
Is there some easy circuit to do this. The current requirements are
about 15A at 110V
Maybe you can use a relay with a capacitor across the coil.
It would be a DC relay with a diode and resistor in series
with the AC line. Figure out how much current the relay coil
needs and add a resistor so you get the right amount at 120
volts, half wave. When power is shut off, the capacitor will
keep the relay engaged for a short period. But it also works
in reverse and delays the turn on time.

-Bill
 
Yes, there is some freeware available for testing schematics and designing
PCBs.
Please browse to
http://home.planet.nl/~heuve345/freesoft/elec.html
for a list of freeware or to
http://home.planet.nl/~heuve345/electronics/software.html
for some commercial software and (free) Spice models.

HTH,

--
Gert van den Heuvel
webmaster www.HobbyElectronics.info

"The Data Wraith" <thedatawraith@iprimus.com.au> wrote in message
news:3f156528_1@news.iprimus.com.au...
Hi everybody,

As a relative beginner in electronics, I was wondering if there is any
freeware (Windows) available that would allow me to design and test pcb's
and schematics, that I have designed, on my computer.

Many thanks
TDW
 
Sorry, my mistake.

"Bill Bowden" <HoldenCaulfield@att.net> wrote in message news:401eed4d.0307162141.f1e0e16@posting.google.com...
engi> wrote in message news:<bf4l0401ppr@enews1.newsguy.com>...
Another question comes to mind:
Why do we need the capacitor of 0.47uF near the microphone.
The impedance of this capacitor is 3K at 1000Hz, 30K at
100Hz, 150K at 20Hz, so it will have some effect on the lower
frequecies, is that what we need?

The 0.47uF capacitor reactance is 339 ohms at 1000 Hz
which isn't much compared to the 10K resistor. But the
capacitor could be a little bigger.

-Bill
 
Costas Vlachos wrote:
Hi all,

I'm using a standard diff. amp. circuit (with one op-amp and 4
resistors) to amplify the voltage across a current-sense 0.1 Ohm
resistor. I need to get a 1V/A signal, so the gain of the diff. amp.
must be 10. In reality it must be 10 +/- 10% due to the tolerance of
the sense resistor, so I need to be able to trim the gain in this
range. The sense resistor is on the high-side of the PSU and the
common mode voltage can vary from 0 to 30V. Because of this, I also
need to slightly trim one of the 4 resistors in the diff. amp.
circuit to maximise CMRR.

The problem is that, in this circuit (using one op-amp), the gain and
CMRR are inter-related. To trim CMRR I need a very small variation in
one of the resistors. To trim the gain, a much larger variation is
required in two of the resistors simultaneously. This makes
calibration of this circuit for both correct gain and max. CMRR a
pain...

To solve this, I set the diff. amp. with a fixed gain of
approximately 9 and added a small-R trimmer in series with one of the
4 resistors (compensating the other branch as necessary). This
enables me to accurately trim CMRR. I then fed the output of the
diff. amp. to a non-inverting amp. with a variable gain from 1 to
approx. 1.23. This 2-op-amp approach gives me an overall gain between
9 and 11 as required, which is independent of CMRR. I've implemented
this, it works fine and calibration is quick and easy.

Is this approach OK? Or is it better to set the diff. amp. to have
unity gain and then adjust the non-inv. amp.'s gain from 9 to 11? The
net effect in terms of overall gain is the same, but is there a
reason for using one or the other setup? Or maybe it's better to use
another approach altogether?

Any comments are appreciated.
Use a standard instrumentation amp from analog devices, burr-brown etc,
and save yourself a lot of grief.

Kevin Aylward
salesEXTRACT@anasoft.co.uk
http://www.anasoft.co.uk
SuperSpice, a very affordable Mixed-Mode
Windows Simulator with Schematic Capture,
Waveform Display, FFT's and Filter Design.
 
Thanks for the diagram, but should the circuit I build be connected as shown or
should the diode be reverse of what is shown!!

Sorry, and am a Newbie.

Thanks,
Ed
 
Thanks for the diagram, but should the circuit I build be connected as
shown or
should the diode be reverse of what is shown!!

Hi Ed,

Look at the datasheet for the IRF630A, see the diode connecting the source
and drain? Your diode across the coil should be in the same direction. The
diode in the FET is doing the same thing the diode across the coil is doing.

Include your diode, eliminate the counter EMF at the source.

Jay
 
<lawyer> wrote in message news:<bf6avt010iu@enews1.newsguy.com>...
The 1K resistor on the mic looks a little low.
You will probably get more signal from the mic
with a 10-20k resistor. The mic sees a 1K load
in parallel with a 10K which is less than 1K total.
If you use 10K, the mic will see a 5K load and
the output voltage will be higher.

How exactly does the mic see 10K in parallel with 1K,
the 10K is connected to the op amp which is a very
high impedance. Also the 1K goes up to the +V whereas
the 10K goes through the 10M and the load into GRD ?
You have to remember the op-amp always wants to see the
two inputs (inverting and non-inverting) at the same
voltage. If they are slightly different, the output of
op-amp would be driven all the way to the rail since it
has a very high gain. The gain is set by the two resistors
10K and 10M which gives a gain of 1000 in this case.

Now, when the signal from the mic moves positive,
the op-amp output moves negative far enough to cancel
out the positive signal at the input and keep it at zero.
In this case it moves 1000 times more negative because
of the high 10M feedback resistor.

So, you can see that the input to the op-amp never really
changes at all, and is held constant at zero by the output
feeding back a voltage through the 10M resistor.

So, we can conclude from this that the 10K resistor is
effectively connected to ground, since one side of it is
always zero.

The power supply is a short circuit to AC signals, so
the mic sees the 1K in Parallel with the 10K which is
effectively connected to ground.

Does that make sense?

-Bill
 
"Bill Bowden" <HoldenCaulfield@att.net> wrote in message news:401eed4d.0307171405.5b0bd854@posting.google.com...
lawyer> wrote in message news:<bf6avt010iu@enews1.newsguy.com>...
The 1K resistor on the mic looks a little low.
You will probably get more signal from the mic
with a 10-20k resistor. The mic sees a 1K load
in parallel with a 10K which is less than 1K total.
If you use 10K, the mic will see a 5K load and
the output voltage will be higher.

How exactly does the mic see 10K in parallel with 1K,
the 10K is connected to the op amp which is a very
high impedance. Also the 1K goes up to the +V whereas
the 10K goes through the 10M and the load into GRD ?

You have to remember the op-amp always wants to see the
two inputs (inverting and non-inverting) at the same
voltage. If they are slightly different, the output of
op-amp would be driven all the way to the rail since it
has a very high gain. The gain is set by the two resistors
10K and 10M which gives a gain of 1000 in this case.

Now, when the signal from the mic moves positive,
the op-amp output moves negative far enough to cancel
out the positive signal at the input and keep it at zero.
In this case it moves 1000 times more negative because
of the high 10M feedback resistor.

So, you can see that the input to the op-amp never really
changes at all, and is held constant at zero by the output
feeding back a voltage through the 10M resistor.

So, we can conclude from this that the 10K resistor is
effectively connected to ground, since one side of it is
always zero.

The power supply is a short circuit to AC signals, so
the mic sees the 1K in Parallel with the 10K which is
effectively connected to ground.

Does that make sense?
Good explanation, so we have 10K connected to ground, the other one,
the 1K, is connected to +V , so still - they are not in parallel ?
 
Jay,

Excellent. So in order not to let the electrons slip back into the drain and
burn out my MOSfet, I put the diode between the electromagnet and the drain
pin. I'm just repeating back so that I know I'm understanding this right. The
way you have it drawn, it looks like its in parallel, whereas I was thinking it
should be in a series. I'm going to wire it in a series just in case.

One more question, if you don't mind. I have a DC source, a small motocycle
battery. Do I need to put a load on that battery to get the electromagnet
going? Like a resistor in parallel with the electromagnet and the battery?
Please forgive the elementary nature of this question, I'm just learning
electronics.

Thanks!
Ed

Hi Ed,

Look at the datasheet for the IRF630A, see the diode connecting the source
and drain? Your diode across the coil should be in the same direction. The
diode in the FET is doing the same thing the diode across the coil is doing.

Include your diode, eliminate the counter EMF at the source.

Jay
 
the Wiz wrote:

Time-delay relays are available in on-delay and off-delay versions.
On-delay provides a delay between the time the switch is turned on and the time
that power is applied to the device being controlled.
Off-delay provides a delay between the time the switch is turned off and the
time power is removed from the device being controlled.
These relays are available in fixed delay (30 seconds, 5 minutes, etc) and
adjustable delay versions.

You need an off-delay unit that matches the voltage and current specifications
of the unit you are controlling and provides the proper time delay.
Ok I found a time delay relay for sale on E-Bay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2546108664&category=36328
now where do I find some kind of socket to plug the thing into so I can wire
it up?

Chris W
 
"AC/DCdude17" <JerC@prontoREMOVETHISmail.com> schreef in bericht
news:3F163D14.16B83760@prontoREMOVETHISmail.com...
X-No-Archive: Yes



"Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun'" wrote:

I got tired of switching the leads of my DMM. Suddenly if dawned on
me that I can just set the power supply to 10.0V for exaample, and
read the current, and then divide the voltage by the current to find
the resistance. Like I put a resistance on the PS, it reads 10.0V and
the current is .018A, so 10 / .018 gives 555.6 ohms. Must be a 560
ohm resistor.

Dangerous and inaccurate. Inaccurate, because the resistor will warm up
and the resistance will increase.
Dangerous??? You got to be joking. Educational is the keyword here!

[snip]

--
Thanks,
Frank Bemelman
(remove 'x' & .invalid when sending email)
 
Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net> wrote in message news:<3F172E38.9708B93A@cox.net>...
the Wiz wrote:

Time-delay relays are available in on-delay and off-delay versions.
On-delay provides a delay between the time the switch is turned on and the time
that power is applied to the device being controlled.
Off-delay provides a delay between the time the switch is turned off and the
time power is removed from the device being controlled.
These relays are available in fixed delay (30 seconds, 5 minutes, etc) and
adjustable delay versions.

You need an off-delay unit that matches the voltage and current specifications
of the unit you are controlling and provides the proper time delay.

Ok I found a time delay relay for sale on E-Bay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2546108664&category=36328
now where do I find some kind of socket to plug the thing into so I can wire
it up?

Chris W
That relay requires an 11-pin, octal-type socket. Available most
quickly from W.W. Grainger or a surplus store. This absurdly-named
device has the same size pins as the old octal-base tubes: just has
eleven of them.
If you're anywhere near Silicon Valley, go to Halted Specialties,
Triangle Machinery, Excess Solutions or Weird Stuff and goggle at the
choices.
Wade Hassler
 
<engi> wrote in message news:<bf78de01hhn@enews2.newsguy.com>...
Good explanation, so we have 10K connected to ground, the other one,
the 1K, is connected to +V , so still - they are not in parallel ?
Yes they are in parallel from a signal point of view.
The 1K resistor is grounded through the power supply.
+V and ground are the same points for AC signals.

Think about a bypass capacitor placed across the circuit
from +V to ground. It connects the two points together.

-Bill
 

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