Best solder free electrical connection

[Grant]

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 17:34:22 -0400, "Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

"Bob Eager" <rde42@spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:8ctifbFl54U2@mid.individual.net...
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:

I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to stick to the tabs.

To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
solder.


That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a very hot
iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get out quick. The
tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If he applies a low heat,
the plastic will get a lot of heat on it before the tab gets hot enough to
melt the solder.
The 63/73 is the way to go, but 60/40 is just fine. Also do not move the
wires while the solder is cooling. This is one big way to mess up the
joint.

I'm surprised nobody mentioned cleaning up the battery tab first,

some of that cheap gear is terribly difficult to tin, without a
good scratching up and cleaning first. Emery paper, sand paper,
even a sharp instrument. And wash the grease off too, metho or
IPA should be safe for the plastic?

The trick is to go in quick, if it doesn't work straight away (like
less than a second), remove the heat, let the thing cool right down,
and try again later.

Problems happen when you keep the heat on to no effect, melting the
surrounds.

Be aware of the need for the fresh heat bridge, created by applying
iron and solder together, so the flux is working. It's perfectly
fine to have several attempts, provided you let the parts cool right
down between the attempts.

And yes, practice makes perfect, so try some other soldering to get
a feel for how the solder, flux and iron behave together.

Try soldering (stripped) insulated wire together until you can make
clean solder joints without burning the insulation, basic thermal
feel and control. Don't be afraid to waste solder, learn to coax
excess solder off a joint by application of the iron and new solder.

Grant.

 

[Grant]

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:26:23 -0400, Nate Nagel <njnagel@roosters.net> wrote:

On 08/16/2010 05:56 PM, tony sayer wrote:
In article<Q7OdnZbA56RZMvTRnZ2dnUVZ_uydnZ2d@earthlink.com>, Ralph
Mowery<rmowery28146@earthlink.net> scribeth thus

"rangerssuck"<rangerssuck@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:f58e1c93-6fef-4cf0-941f-826597f8d898@5g2000yqz.googlegroups.com...
.
Alternatively, Assuming you're in the US, go towww.arrl.org (American
Radio Relay League) and find an amateur radio guy in your area (just
search by state, and with a little poking around, you'll find someone
nearby). Virtually ALL of these people know how to solder, and will
likely be extremely willing to help you learn how.

That sounds like a good idea, but I bet a very few of them know how to
solder or even have a soldering tool. That comes from be being a ham for
over 35 years and knowing the ones in the local area.
Many that know how will usually be willing to help.



Seems its a dying craft making any of your own gear now.

Anything on You tube on soldering at all?..

meh? I still solder quite regularly, because if nothing else, I'm far
more likely to have solder and heat shrink handy than I am butt splices
and a crimping tool.

Also, the tool makes a huge difference. I (heart) my ancient Weller
soldering station, the constant-temp tips make life so much better.

I used to use the Weller, but disliked that little jump when the
magnet pulled in (or let go). Also iron based leads (like on
signal diodes) could be troublesome The new Hakko I have now
is great.

Grant.

nate

 

[steve robinson]

robgraham wrote:

On 16 Aug, 20:39, Bob Eager <rd...@spamcop.net> wrote:
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I
have a small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I
can see myself easily melting all the plastic around the
contacts before I can get anything to stick to the tabs.

To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can
get/borrow a temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower
temperature and use 63/37 solder.

--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
 http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

I notice that nobody has raised the point for the OP that his
problem of previous soldering is that he is possibly using too
powerful a soldering iron - one with too big a bit. This is the
most likely cause of his problem with melting the support for the
tag he is soldering to. Haven't we all done it - and even with a
temperature controlled one and 50 years of experience I softened
the mount for the centre pin of a connector yesterday, and had to
go back and apply heat to straighten it.

John - I've had a quick scan through Ebay and suggest that
#370414838261 is a good buy (ie I've got one!) for a controlled iron
if you feel that the advise to try,try,try again is worth following.

Rob

Try lead based solder 60/40 has a lower melting point

 

[Bob Eager]

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 17:34:22 -0400, Ralph Mowery wrote:

"Bob Eager" <rde42@spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:8ctifbFl54U2@mid.individual.net...
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:

I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to stick to the tabs.

To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow
a temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use
63/37 solder.


That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a very
hot iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get out quick.
The tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If he applies a
low heat, the plastic will get a lot of heat on it before the tab gets
hot enough to melt the solder.
The 63/73 is the way to go, but 60/40 is just fine. Also do not move
the wires while the solder is cooling. This is one big way to mess up
the joint.

Point taken, but I didn't mean *that* much lower. It just reduces the
complete melting point by a few tens of degrees; clearly it has to be hot
enough to do the joint quickly.



--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

 

[RES]

"Nate Nagel" <njnagel@roosters.net> wrote in message
news:i4cdud0bmc@news2.newsguy.com...

On 08/16/2010 05:56 PM, tony sayer wrote:
In article<Q7OdnZbA56RZMvTRnZ2dnUVZ_uydnZ2d@earthlink.com>, Ralph
Mowery<rmowery28146@earthlink.net> scribeth thus



Seems its a dying craft making any of your own gear now.

Anything on You tube on soldering at all?..

meh? I still solder quite regularly, because if nothing else, I'm far
more likely to have solder and heat shrink handy than I am butt splices
and a crimping tool.

Also, the tool makes a huge difference. I (heart) my ancient Weller
soldering station, the constant-temp tips make life so much better.

This is an aside to the discussion on soldering, but it might be of some
general interest. A relative of mine is the manager of a fairly large
electronics manufacturing plant here in the US. Yup, they make electronic
devices here in the USA and have been kicking Pacific Rim, China and Mexican
exports in the rump for years. The devices are major and fairly custom made
for each customer. The result is that our intelligent and educated shop
people are flexible in what they can do, where Pacific Rim only exceed where
it's highly routine.

That aside, he took me on a tour of the plant one day while it was in
operation. The each circuit board, once components are in place, is
rigorously tested by computerized probes that can identify and isolate
specific components that are either bad or didn't get soldered in properly.
The boards are flagged and sent to the "repair" benches. There, about a
dozen people with soldering irons desolder the component and replace it by
hand. The boards then go back to be tested and certified for installation
into the "big iron." Each station had at least 5-6 soldering irons of
various wattages and tips PLUS laminar flow air hoods to extract any fumes.
The lighting was very good, also, as you'd suspect.

He told me that the dozen or so people who man the repair stations and
soldering irons are some of the most highly paid of the hourly workers,
since it takes a combination of manual dexterity, attention to detail and
patience to get the new components in place properly.

Nonny

 

[Ralph Mowery]

"RES" <nothingpublic@hotmail.com> wrote in message
newsbednRs86MmTX_TRnZ2dnUVZ5qSdnZ2d@giganews.com...

"Nate Nagel" <njnagel@roosters.net> wrote in message
news:i4cdud0bmc@news2.newsguy.com...
He told me that the dozen or so people who man the repair stations and
soldering irons are some of the most highly paid of the hourly workers,
since it takes a combination of manual dexterity, attention to detail and
patience to get the new components in place properly.

I can believe that. I have built some simple electronic devices using 5 or
6 of the old style ICs that had 14 to 40 pins on them and put together some
kits that had about 30 ICs on them.

I have not tried any of the newer surface mounted devices. Doubt that I
ever will due to the size of them. Can't see the things and don't have the
tools to do it.

 

[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

On Aug 16, 12:43 pm, "john hamilton" <bluesta...@mail.invalid> wrote:

I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull.  Thanks.

Is the OP in the USA or the UK or where?????

 

[rangerssuck]

On Aug 16, 1:43 pm, "john hamilton" <bluesta...@mail.invalid> wrote:

I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull.  Thanks.

Take it to the local TV repair guy, and ask him to teach you how to do
it, so you'll be prepared for next time.
Alternatively, Assuming you're in the US, go towww.arrl.org (American
Radio Relay League) and find an amateur radio guy in your area (just
search by state, and with a little poking around, you'll find someone
nearby). Virtually ALL of these people know how to solder, and will
likely be extremely willing to help you learn how.

 

[Bob Eager]

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 19:09:49 -0400, Ralph Mowery wrote:

"RES" <nothingpublic@hotmail.com> wrote in message
newsbednRs86MmTX_TRnZ2dnUVZ5qSdnZ2d@giganews.com...


"Nate Nagel" <njnagel@roosters.net> wrote in message
news:i4cdud0bmc@news2.newsguy.com...
He told me that the dozen or so people who man the repair stations and
soldering irons are some of the most highly paid of the hourly workers,
since it takes a combination of manual dexterity, attention to detail
and patience to get the new components in place properly.


I can believe that. I have built some simple electronic devices using 5
or 6 of the old style ICs that had 14 to 40 pins on them and put
together some kits that had about 30 ICs on them.

I've been soldering (on and off) for well over 40 years, and find it
strangely satisfying! Last project was one of these:

http://www.sparetimegizmos.com/Hardware/SBC6120-2.htm

and these:

http://www.sparetimegizmos.com/Hardware/SBC6120_Front_Panel.htm

Great fun to build and to program!

I have not tried any of the newer surface mounted devices. Doubt that I
ever will due to the size of them. Can't see the things and don't have
the tools to do it.

I keep meaning to have a go, since I seem to have mastered single-eye
soldering now.



--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

 

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, "john hamilton"
<bluestar95@mail.invalid> wrote:

I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.

Bad idea. The nail varnish is an insulator, and is likely to wick back

into the (non) connection.

 

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 19:05:20 +0100, "Toby"
<postmaster@127.0.0.1.invalid> wrote:

"john hamilton" <bluestar95@mail.invalid> wrote in message
news:i4btbg$m7c$1@news.eternal-september.org...
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole
will bend upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in
the connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
unwinding. Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.


Solder is the only reliable way, IMO

Just bend the tabs out, so they are not touching the plastic, make sure the
iron is nice and hot, dab some solder on the end of the iron, then place
this on one of the tabs and feed in a little more solder to tin the tab,
should take a couple of seconds.
Now strip about 5mm of the wires and tin the end of the wire, if the
insulation shrinks back, then snip the end of the wire off so it is about
5mm.
Place the wire on top of the solder on the tab and heat the wire until the
solder on the tab melts again.

Hold the wire with something other than your hand, as it may get quite hot!

Once it has cooled, marvel at your handywork

Or, buy these two from eBay, or anywhere that sells this sort of stuff...
350373699059 (Twin AA battery holder with a PPÂŁ type connector on the top)
and one of these
350350685890 (PP3 battery connector)

Toby...
Ore use a conductive "glue" like the stuff sold to fix rear window

defroster grids, or printed circuit traces. After making the good
electrical contact with that (it is usually silver bearing) add a dab
of epoxy, or even hot melt glue, to give it a bit of mechanical
support.

Or just learn to solder - - - - .the low temperature eutectic "paste
solder" would actually work pretty good for this and only requires
minimal heat.

 

[Stormin Mormon]

I was thinking to enlarge the holes in the tabs, and use pop rivets.
Sadly, the battery holder pictured won't take .250 push on connectors,
I don't think. The metal is chromed, so solder won't stick very well,
it's also likely steel. There is no really good way to make the
connection.

Wire through the hole, twist the wire, and solder the wire to itself
is about the best answer I can find.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Fred McKenzie" <fmmck@aol.com> wrote in message
news:fmmck-102C3C.15445916082010@news.mixmin.net...


What about threading tiny self-tapping screws into the holes in the
rivets that connect the lugs to the contacts?

Fred

 

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 17:34:22 -0400, "Ralph Mowery"
<rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

"Bob Eager" <rde42@spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:8ctifbFl54U2@mid.individual.net...
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:

I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to stick to the tabs.

To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
solder.


That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a very hot
iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get out quick. The
tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If he applies a low heat,
the plastic will get a lot of heat on it before the tab gets hot enough to
melt the solder.
The 63/73 is the way to go, but 60/40 is just fine. Also do not move the
wires while the solder is cooling. This is one big way to mess up the
joint.

And a good reason to use 63/37. It is a "fast freeze" solder (the real

term is Eutectic - meaning it has a very narrow "plastic" range,
essentially going almost instantly from solid to liquid, and liquid to
sollid, with no "putty" stage in between.

 

[tm]

"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung##spamblock**@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Rfkao.67860$4B7.52675@newsfe16.iad...

I was thinking to enlarge the holes in the tabs, and use pop rivets.
Sadly, the battery holder pictured won't take .250 push on connectors,
I don't think. The metal is chromed, so solder won't stick very well,
it's also likely steel. There is no really good way to make the
connection.

I would be most surprised if they were chromed. Most likely a thin nickel
plate
to prevent oxidation. Solder will work fine. That's why they put the hole
for a wire.


Solder it.



tm



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

 

[aemeijers]

john hamilton wrote:

I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.


Nobody else said it, so I will- if your attempted repairs end up

trashing the battery box, a 2xAA holder in pretty common, and should not
be hard to find at Radio Shack (or whatever the UK equiv is), or online,
like at MPJA.com. For a toy with a half-life of hours, I have even
taped the wires to the end of the battery, and jammed/taped them back
into the box. (may have to extend the wires to do that.)

--
aem sends...

 

[J Burns]

Ralph Mowery wrote:

"Bob Eager" <rde42@spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:8ctifbFl54U2@mid.individual.net...
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:

I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to stick to the tabs.
To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
solder.


That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a very hot
iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get out quick. The
tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If he applies a low heat,
the plastic will get a lot of heat on it before the tab gets hot enough to
melt the solder.

Overheated tips give me a hassle with oxidation. I think the most
important factor is thermal conductivity to the joint. The flow can be
slow with a small pencil-pointed iron. A bigger tip with a flat side
can work much faster.

I'd clean the iron, tab, and wire, make a good mechanical connection,
apply rosin flux to the connection and the iron, and turn on the iron.
When the flux smoked, I'd begin testing the iron by touching solder to
it. When it melted solder quickly, I'd touch the iron to the
connection. Almost instantly, the flat side of the tip and the drop of
molten solder should conduct enough heat to the joint for it to draw
solder from the iron. I'd have the iron out of there before the plastic
could soften.

Dadburnit, the last battery holders I bought had the tabs riveted to the
battery contacts. They develop resistance from invisible corrosion
around the rivets. I have to keep spraying with contact cleaner. I
also have jumper cables that develop resistance from unseen corrosion
where the wires are crimped.

 

[Smitty Two]

In article <i4btbg$m7c$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
"john hamilton" <bluestar95@mail.invalid> wrote:

I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.

Go buy a battery holder that has leads already attached. Twist those
leads to the leads coming from the toy.

Smitty Two, who owns a soldering company, has taught 50 people to
solder, has soldered hundreds of thousands of components by hand, and
knows that while soldering is easy, it can't be taught in two minutes
with a paragraph.

 

[tm]

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsrestwhich-E25BE0.20421816082010@news.eternal-september.org...

In article <i4btbg$m7c$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
"john hamilton" <bluestar95@mail.invalid> wrote:

I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in
the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.

Go buy a battery holder that has leads already attached. Twist those
leads to the leads coming from the toy.

Smitty Two, who owns a soldering company, has taught 50 people to
solder, has soldered hundreds of thousands of components by hand, and
knows that while soldering is easy, it can't be taught in two minutes
with a paragraph.

No, not for mil spec results. But this is just a friggin toy. Solder it.






--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

 

[Smitty Two]

In article <i4d2fc$1c2h$1@adenine.netfront.net>,
"tm" <the_obamunist@whitehouse.gov> wrote:

No, not for mil spec results. But this is just a friggin toy. Solder it.

The OP already said he solders poorly. For $1.50 or so he can buy a damn
battery holder with wires attached. He can do it before or after he
melts the one he has trying to solder it.

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, "john hamilton"
<bluestar95@mail.invalid> wrote:

Sigh. No imagination left on Usenet. OK, no soldering or heat
allowed. Some ideas.

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

Plan A: Looks like the rivets used to mount the contacts have a
through hole in them. Shove a 2-56 flat head bolt through the hole
from the inside. Put two washers, lockwasher, and a nut on the
outside. Wrap the wire around the bolt between the washers and
tighten the nut. If you can't find a bolt that fits, you might be
able to find a suitable copper rivet. Beat on it with a hammer to
assemble.

Plan B: Thread the rivet hole and insert a lockwasher and 2 washer
sandwitch held in place with a small bolt. Getting the bolt length
correct will be the major challenge.

Plan C: Strip off about 3cm of wire from the leads. Bend into a
spiral. Shove the spiral between the battery contacts and the
matching rivet and spring. Be sure you have a good electrical
connection. Wrap the whole mess in giant shrink tube, electrical
tape, duct tape, or just bury it in hot melt glue. Whatever it takes
to keep the wires from moving.

Plan D: Buy a dual AAA cordless phone battery pack. They usually
have two leads and a connector. Chop off the connector, strip the
leads, and twist the matching wires together. Wrap with electrical
tape or use shrink tube.

Plan E: Brute force cold welding. If the wires are copper, you can
just run them through the holes in the terminals and pound everything
flat with a small hammer and anvil. The copper will cold flow and
eventually create a solid connection. You may need to add additional
soft copper wire filler to get a proper connection. See any jewelry
maker or blacksmith for details.

Plan F: Forget the holder and just spot weld wires directly to the
battery. This is far more fun than learning to solder as it throws
spark and hot slag all over the place.
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yabesdeGKJo>
Since you probably don't have a cazapitive discharge spot welder, drag
it down to the local Batteries Plus store and have them do it.



--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558