audio recording on IC -help wanted

That'll work - and it's cheap too. Thanks for pointing that one
out...

On Jul 19, 9:08 pm, PhattyMo <Phatt...@nospam.gmail> wrote:
gwatts wrote:
PhattyMo wrote:
gwatts wrote:

Mad Scientist Jr wrote:

Does anyone know where you can order a plastic 9v battery holder with
a snap off cover that flush mounts in a project box, guitar body, etc?
It would be like the AA battery holder in this Synsonics Terminator
guitar except for 9v...

There are a few here:

http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/electrical_other.htm

$16 for a battery holder!!?#$

Bring your Vaseline.

Do you have any better suggestions for what Mad Sci Jr. wants?

Maybe "Figure H" here..?http://www.mouser.com/catalog/630/1742.PDF

And it's only $4.
 
On Mar 12, 5:39 pm, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:
On Wed, 12 Mar 2008 07:43:19 -0700 (PDT), bill.slo...@ieee.org
wrote:





On Mar 11, 3:34 pm, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:
On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 07:57:49 -0700 (PDT), bill.slo...@ieee.org
wrote:

On Mar 10, 10:59 am, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com
wrote:
On Sun, 9 Mar 2008 16:57:49 -0700 (PDT), bill.slo...@ieee.org wrote:
Since "restoring voltage handling capability" means thickening up the
oxide layer, it probably will decrease the part's capacitance,
bringing it back towards the as-new value. The tolerance on most
electrolytic capacitors is pretty high, so it might be hard to prove.

---
You certainly don't seem to be thinking straight since, regardless
of the tolerance, measuring the capacitance before, and then after
reforming would certainly indicate if the process had changed the
capacitance.

Sure it would, but how many people have a capacitor handy that needs
reforming?

---
Who cares?

We're talking process, not logistics.

Actually, we are talking about being helpful,

---
No, we're not.
Being helpful doesn't seem to figure in your priorities, and I'm not
(at the moment) bored enough to indulge in the kind of dim-witted nit-
picking that you do fancy.

<snip>

--
Bill Sloman, Nijmegen
 
"Joerg" <notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote in message
news:p3TIj.4014$p24.3690@nlpi061.nbdc.sbc.com...
ian field wrote:
"Joerg" <notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote in message
news:evQIj.26778$Ch6.8240@newssvr11.news.prodigy.net...
ian field wrote:
"Joerg" <notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote in message
news:7%bIj.20887$xq2.6498@newssvr21.news.prodigy.net...
While contemplating a new design I was looking around for tapped
inductors and 455kHz IF filters which also can be used as such. Got a
sticker shock. Even at quantities they can't be had under 75c. Ouch!
Also, not many brands. Digikey doesn't have any, Mouser only carries
one (Xicom).

Are LC IF filters finally going lalaland? I remember them to be really
cheap. They had to, because even a $10 radio contained half a dozen of
those.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Try: http://www.abacus.co.uk/jkcm/Products/Passive

Look for the passive product matrix PDF above the top LH corner of the
main panel.

Its a large group of companies, so it may have a facility local to you.
Thanks, Ian, but that's the usual suspects. They only have ceramic
resonators.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Nothing here:
http://www.toko.co.jp/products/en/coils/index_variable_e.html then?

That's just inductors sans tap, only adjustable. Toko does have filters
but the selection has shriveled to stuff like these 3.58MHz chroma
filters:

http://www.toko.co.jp/products/en/filters_lc/fss_e.html

I usually need more extreme tap ratios (or impedance ratios). But even
these 3.58MHz will likely go lalaland soon because analog TV is gone for
good in the US next year. It's going to be a 100% cut, there won't be any
analog stations left by the end of February. Meaning no chroma carriers
either.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Some of the PDF sheets I downloaded from that page contain a notice inviting
customers to enquire about detailed specifications - have you tried doing
that?
 
MC74HC4316A datasheet and pdf check from
http://www.chinaicmart.com/series-MC7/MC74HC4316A.html
The MC74HC4316A utilizes silicon–gate CMOS technology to achieve fast
propagation delays, low ON resistances, and low OFF–channel leakage
current. This bilateral switch/multiplexer/demultiplexer controls
analog and digital voltages that may vary across the full analog power–
supply range (from VCC to VEE).
The HC4316A is similar in function to the metal–gate CMOS MC14016 and
MC14066, and to the High–Speed CMOS HC4016A and HC4066A.
Each device has four independent switches. The device control and
Enable inputs are compatible with standard CMOS outputs; with pullup
resistors, they are compatible with LSTTL outputs. The device has been
designed so that the ON resistances (RON) are much more linear over
input voltage than RON of metal–gate CMOS analog switches. Logic–level
translators are provided so that the On/Off Control and Enable logic–
level voltages need only be VCC and GND, while the switch is passing
signals ranging between VCC and VEE. When the Enable pin (active–low)
is high, all four analog switches are turned off.
 
In article <4791A722.5792BEED@earthlink.net>,
sci.electronics.design, mike.terrell@earthlink.net says...
krw wrote:

In article <bsbkj.465$uE.362@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net>,
sci.electronics.design, notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net
says...
krw wrote:
In article <47905C96.AB28D5F7@earthlink.net>,
sci.electronics.design, mike.terrell@earthlink.net says...
Jim Thompson wrote:
On Fri, 18 Jan 2008 02:05:59 GMT, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:
On Fri, 18 Jan 2008 01:10:23 GMT, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:
[snip]
We also have a Dymo LabelWriter 400, but it's local to my wife's
machine.

We still write labels by hand, or I print, glue to blank label, then stick.
We have ~1000 Girl Scouts... we're neighborhood level now, and I'm the
neighborhood cookie manager ;-)

That sure explains the label printer.
Sure explains why NOT to volunteer ;-)

If your wife wasn't busy with her volunteer work she might decide to
spend more time keeping you in line! :(

Tell me about it. My wife isn't working since we moved and doesn't
want to look because we're not planning on staying here for more
than another six months or so. Who knows though, if there's work
to be done we may stay for a long time (since we finally made it
out of weenie-land).


So, where are you guys now?

NE OH. It's a lot cheaper than VT, though a lot more "big-city".
When asked about the size of the city, I reply "five Walmarts, five
Home Despots, and four Lowes". There are two, two, and zero in the
whole state of VT. ;-)

Always on the look-out for business-friendly places and where they don't
tax grandparents out of their homes :)

Well, we made it 2/3rds of the way to KY. There is a *lot* more
work here too. ;-)


I beat you to kentucky. I arrived there in the later half of in
1952, at a hospital in Menifee County.! ;-)

Yeah, but you were dumb enough to leave. ...for Florida, of all
places! <ack!>

--
Keith
 
Yep, it is. It is a good clue that I am talking to a dumb kid who knows not
much.

I know that it is not proprietary yet, you think that it is.

Grow up, get some modicum of intelligence and berate your parents for
spoiling your sorry ass.

Now, run along.



"Michael Black" <et472@ncf.ca> wrote in message
news:pine.LNX.4.64.0804061512410.9461@darkstar.example.org...
On Sun, 6 Apr 2008, jusme wrote:

It is not proprietary.

How do you know that?

You've asked about a transistor that has a number that fits no
standard, and yet does fit the sort of number you see on proprietary
parts.

You want some, but can't find them.

You'll settle for an equivalent, but don't know any.

You haven't told us anything about why this transistor is so important
to you.

That all adds up to a strong indication that it is a house number.

You know more about it than us, yet you are having trouble finding it.
That's a good clue about something.

Michael



"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:3bbhv3pc123lsj9occbd2ph4rvubkkg1ok@4ax.com...
On Sat, 5 Apr 2008 12:40:04 -0500, "jusme" <jbleaux@gmail.com> wrote:

:eek:r equivalent. I only need one but would like to have some spares.
:
:I have looked all over. I would even take a datasheet.
:
:Thank you.
:

Most likely a proprietary type number made for an oem. You won't be able
to find
one anywhere - unless the manufacturer of your equipment can help.
 
krw wrote:
In article <4791A722.5792BEED@earthlink.net>,
sci.electronics.design, mike.terrell@earthlink.net says...
krw wrote:

In article <bsbkj.465$uE.362@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net>,
sci.electronics.design, notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net
says...
krw wrote:
In article <47905C96.AB28D5F7@earthlink.net>,
sci.electronics.design, mike.terrell@earthlink.net says...
Jim Thompson wrote:
On Fri, 18 Jan 2008 02:05:59 GMT, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:
On Fri, 18 Jan 2008 01:10:23 GMT, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:
[snip]
We also have a Dymo LabelWriter 400, but it's local to my wife's
machine.

We still write labels by hand, or I print, glue to blank label, then stick.
We have ~1000 Girl Scouts... we're neighborhood level now, and I'm the
neighborhood cookie manager ;-)

That sure explains the label printer.
Sure explains why NOT to volunteer ;-)

If your wife wasn't busy with her volunteer work she might decide to
spend more time keeping you in line! :(

Tell me about it. My wife isn't working since we moved and doesn't
want to look because we're not planning on staying here for more
than another six months or so. Who knows though, if there's work
to be done we may stay for a long time (since we finally made it
out of weenie-land).


So, where are you guys now?

NE OH. It's a lot cheaper than VT, though a lot more "big-city".
When asked about the size of the city, I reply "five Walmarts, five
Home Despots, and four Lowes". There are two, two, and zero in the
whole state of VT. ;-)

Always on the look-out for business-friendly places and where they don't
tax grandparents out of their homes :)

Well, we made it 2/3rds of the way to KY. There is a *lot* more
work here too. ;-)


I beat you to kentucky. I arrived there in the later half of in
1952, at a hospital in Menifee County.! ;-)

Yeah, but you were dumb enough to leave. ...for Florida, of all
places! <ack!

Only after 30+ years in Ohio. At that time there was no electronics
work in the area. Months between job postings. A freind who was an EE
ended up serviceing lotto machines for the state of Ohio. i was hired
as a broadcast engineer as soon as I hit Florida. It was my first, and
only application after moving south. I was hired before I had time to
apply anywhere else.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
PCPaul wrote:
On Sat, 03 Jan 2009 11:03:29 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Gun control is for morons and cowards. England is the perfect example
of a nation governed by cowards who are afraid of armed citizens.

Afraid of armed Yanks, definitely.

24% of the US casualties in the first Gulf War were down to 'friendly
fire'.

24%.

'Friendly fire' accidents do happen. Mostly due to the troops of
various countries not following the instructions for proper ID, correct
passwords, or keeping up with the proper communications for the day or
mission. Some are simply where they were told not to be. Either they
ignored the orders, or the command chain was so slow it never arrived.

Would you rather they be captured and tortured to death by the enemy?


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

aioe.org, Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white
listed, or I will not see your messages.

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.
 
On Mon, 21 Jul 2008 13:05:25 -0700 (PDT), Max65 <mporzio@tele2.it>
wrote:

Hi John,

This is just like the classic puzzle: 2 caps, each 1F, one charged to
1 volt, the other to zero. Connect them in parallel. Q is conserved,
so the voltage drops to 0.5 across both. The energy drops from 0.5 to
0.25 joules. Where did the other 0.25 j go?

I've an idea about the two caps puzzle.
Assuming no resistance between the two caps, the only solution is an
electromagnetic emmission due to the two voltage steps in zero
seconds.
If you analyze the resulting shape in the frequency domain (instead of
the time domain), you get a zero time pulse with infinite armonics.
That should be the place where the other 0.25j went.
In the true life (we know) that energy spread between the
electromagnetic pulse and the parassitic components of the capacitor
leads.


Massimo
The analogies are nice. In the paralleled-cap case, with no losses,
the two caps oscillate with the connection inductance, exchanging
charge back and forth forever, and the full 0.5 joules stays within
the system.

In the plate-dielectric case, if you place the dielectric outside the
plates and let it get sucked in, and there's no friction, the
dielectric plate will oscillate back and forth in the plane of the
plates, almost escaping the plates at extreme excursions, in (I think)
a sinusoidal motion [1]. The sum of electric and kinetic energy will
always be 0.5 joules.

In both cases, in the real world, half the energy is eventually lost,
and 0.25 joules remain.

John

[1] that would be an interesting differential equation.
 
I need to display the numbers 0-255 in decimal on a 3-digit LED
display for a microcontroller project (it would need to be visible in
the dark). Ideally the display would be inexpensive and not take up
too many uC outputs, but what I am finding is expensive ($30 or more).
Does anyone make an inexpensive 3-digit 7-segment LED module that
accepts serial input from say, a PICAXE or a BASIC Stamp 2? Also I
haven't done anything using serial i/o yet but I saw some displays
that had a "clock" pin (so the controller can sync up the data stream
with the module). Would I need to get a clock module for the basic
stamp to talk to the display module? What would a good one be? Can you
build a reliable clock for less using a 555 timer? I as thinking about
how such a device might work without a clock and thought of a way to
do it with 2 lines output, 0-0 would mean no data, 0-1 would mean here
comes some data, 1-0 would mean low, 1-1 would mean high. The display
module would consist of a microcontroller with 2 inputs and 12 outputs
(3 groups of 4 outputs going to a 7-segment encoder IC to drive each
digit). Is this a decent solution or unnecessary? Any advice or links
to a good example would be appreciated... Thanks.
 
Jim Thompson wrote:
On Fri, 18 Jan 2008 02:05:59 GMT, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:
On Fri, 18 Jan 2008 01:10:23 GMT, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:
[snip]
We also have a Dymo LabelWriter 400, but it's local to my wife's
machine.

We still write labels by hand, or I print, glue to blank label, then stick.
We have ~1000 Girl Scouts... we're neighborhood level now, and I'm the
neighborhood cookie manager ;-)

That sure explains the label printer.

Sure explains why NOT to volunteer ;-)
Nah, true volunteering includes sacrifice. OTOH you get first dibs with
those cookies. My preference are the mint cookie with dark chocolate cover.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
 
GPE wrote:

"Joerg" <notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote in message
news:%Fn9i.13397$RX.11812@newssvr11.news.prodigy.net...

Hello Folks,

Ok, first, those card ejectors from RichCo and other mfgs don't seem to be
in stock anywhere. Is there a place that sells them by the dozens and not
truck loads?

Other: We've designed the boards per spec. Holes for the ejector 250mils
in, boards exactly Eurocard length (160mm) but the boards aren't flush
with the front rails of the VME cage. So maybe those ejectors wouldn't
work anyhow.

Are there any "pull tools" available? We used to have those for ultrasound
machines because ejectors were rattling to much. But that was many moons
ago and I don't have the foggiest where they came from. Basically they
caught the holes and then you cantilevered the board out. Of course,
engineers didn't want to be sissies so we kept pulling by hand until thick
callusses developed.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com


VME?!?!
Wow, I remember VME... barely.

We used Schroff for VME front panels and hardware.

So did we. But they seem to be in the habit of not answering emails.


They used to advertise regularly for custom VME front panels in trade
magazines ... and a picture of my panel was always the one in the middle.

We never had problems with fit on the board. And it has been such a long
time since I've worked with these - I can't help with dimensions.
We are actually using the VME as a HW-addressed SPI bus and, gasp, at
3.3V. But don't tell anyone about that, might be against some kind of
unspoken law...

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com
 
Tim Shoppa wrote:

On Nov 13, 8:55 pm, Jeff Wisnia <jwis...@conversent.net> wrote:

One of the GE Weathertron Model 3AAT80B1A1 thermostats in our home is
doing its thing and when the temperature setting is increased a few
degrees above ambient the auxillary heaters come on OK to supplement the
heat pump's output.

The blue "Aux Heat" indicator recently stopped lighting in that mode. I
could live with it that way, but being an engineer I'm sort of anal
about having everything working the way it was designed to.

Does anyone happen to know the type number or the voltage/current
ratings of the "grain of wheat" incandescent indicator bulbs used in
those thermostats. (It's soldered in.)

It would be annoying to spend good money to replace an otherwise working
thermostat just for the want of a bulb.

I suppose I could measure the voltage and current draw of the working
bulb in our other identical thermostat, but I thought I'd ask here first.


The vast majority of US thermostats use 24VAC control voltage. Yours
may be the exception. A voltmeter across the connection to the bulb
would tell you real quick.

24 or 28VAC grain of wheat lamps are often 5-10mA or less.

If you want to do the LED replacment others have suggested, keep in
mind that most LED's do not tolerate much in the way of reverse
voltage.

Tim.

I soldered in a new bulb yesterday. Tracing the circuit showed that
here's a single diode in the common return lead to both the bulbs in the
thermostat so the bulbs effectively see only half of the nominal 24 volt
AC supply.

I used a 12-14 volt "grain of wheat" bulb left over from my sons' model
railroading period of 20+ years ago and it worked fine.

Jeff


--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.
 
In <Xns996AE2280D18Fzoodlewurdle@140.99.99.130>, Lostgallifreyan wrote:
don@manx.misty.com (Don Klipstein) wrote in
news:slrnf9a7md.3hg.don@manx.misty.com:

Ok, I see that lumens depend on the spectrum, not just the actual
visible watts emitted, but given that there is convection in an
incandescent lamp that makes some of its power emit in the IR, does
enough leave that way to bring the lumens per input watts down to
levels that can account for stated line-power-to-light efficiences of
3% and lower?

Most of the output of an incandescent is IR.

What I meant was, might more heat be carried away by the convection in the
argon fill, and be either conducted or radiated away at far longer
wavelengths? I mentioned convection specifically to be clear I'm not
talking about directly radiated energy.
As far as I understand what goes on there, around 10-15 watts is
convected from the filament in a 100 watt "USA-usual" "standard" A19.

I think when Cree talk of lumens per watt, they're talking of lumens
for each watt of electrical input, and that's how I want to make the
comparison.

I was only mentioning figures of lumens per watt of visible light
output
to explain that an incandescent achieving 17.1 lumens per input watt
is nearly 7% efficient.

Put 100 watts into an incandescent that chieves 17.1 lpw. You get
1710
lumens. Each lumen is about 1/250 watt of "white light", not the
1/683 watt assumed by those claiming incandescents are only 1-2%
efficient.

I've managed unintentionally to get you to say that three times now. :)

I'm not always quick on the uptake, but I try... what I'm getting at, is
can any other evaluation result in that lower figure? I'm not convinced
that taking only the lumens at 555 nm accounts for this. Lumens seem
slippery enough if they depend on spectra and photopic sensitivity anyway.

Wikipedia again:
"In photometry, luminous flux or luminous power is the measure of the
perceived power of light. It differs from radiant flux, the measure of the
total power of light emitted, in that luminous flux is adjusted to reflect
the varying sensitivity of the human eye to different wavelengths of
light."
I believe some who are not aware that the lumen is a unit of luminous
and not radiant flux, or not aware of visible wavelengths other than 555
nm having less than 683 lumens per watt, divided a lumen/watt efficacy
figure by 683 to come up with incandescents being only 1-2% or 2.6%
efficient.

I guess that much can be relied on. So try it this way:

Take a 100W incandescent, and a large ellipsoidal mirror to gather as much
of its radiant flux as you can, throwing it to the other focus of the
ellipse where a black painted thermopile awaits. The incoming light is
passed through a dichroic filter at 700 nm to send the IR elsewhere and
pass only the visible light to the thermopile. Assuming you get close to
ideal light gathering for the visible wavelengths (and IR rejection), how
many watts will be read from the thermopile?
I expect about 6.7 watts in the case of a 1710 lumen 100W incandescent,
if the ellipsoidal mirror is a whole ellipsoid and 100% reflective and the
dichroic filter passes all 400-700 nm light.

As for the rest, approximately or "educated guesses":

UV passing through the glass: .12%
UV absorbed by the glass: .02%

Heat conducted/convected from the filament: ~13%

IR passing through the glass: ~60%
IR absorbed by the glass: ~20.16% ("rounded oddly" to make figures add to
100%)

I understand that photometric measurements abount, and radiometric ones are
rarer, but that's what I want to look at, as without that grounding the
rest seems most insecure.
- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)
 
Jim Thompson wrote:
On Fri, 18 Jan 2008 01:10:23 GMT, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 16:35:17 -0800, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 16:17:17 -0800, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 15:56:55 -0800, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Is there a really, really detailed schematic with guaranteed output
voltage limits versus sink current for the LM324? Most look like this:

http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM124.pdf

Obviously, page 8 top left and the schematic show that one can get to
around 700mV above the negative rail at 1mA, one BE drop of Q13 plus the
saturation voltage (or close to it) of Q12. But no "hard" data anywhere.
You don't like page 4 ?:)

Nope, they only give one value there, how much current it is guaranteed
to drive when at 2V above the rail (10mA). Then uA value stated for
200mV isn't too useful, it just confirms that the current source
outlined in the schematic actually made it into production ;-)

10mA is pretty much at the point where the output device loses it. Not a
terribly useful piece of information.
WHY are you using an LM324... CHEAPSKATE ?:)

Umm, yes, that would be correct. Also the sheer number of suppliers, no
single-sourced parts around here unless there really is a compelling
reason. And usually there isn't a compelling reason.
All LM324's are not made the same. Remember my blacklisting Motorola?

I don't remember. What did their LM324 do to you?

Extreme distortion. Reeked havoc with active filters.
It reeked? SCNR ;-)

But yes, I would never use them for anything high fidelity. Only for
mundane stuff and since most circuits somehow end up in that category I
am probably responsible for a grand total of a large truckload in sales
of LM324.

BTW my Barricade needed a few power cycles over the last week. Not good.
Yep, Mine got like that more and more often over time.

I've read that some of the heat sinks in there are on the skimpy side,
at least I'll open it before I give it up. Mostly because of that LPT port.


What did you buy to replace yours?
Linksys BEFSR81

I've got a Cisco wireless here (I believe same brand as Linksys) that
also has a few CAT-5 ports so I can use it as backup should the SMC
croak on a busy workday. I try to have a backup for pretty much anything
essential.


Tried a firmware upgrade before?
Yes. It was current, yet erratic :-(

Some firmwares supposedly could choke up when incomplete or deliberately
mutilated packets arrived, requiring a power cycle. At least that's what
I've read.


Of
course the real cheapskate fix would be to plug it into a timer that
turns it off for an hour after midnight :)
Yep.

Unfortunately I am going to need that printer port in there ...
Linksys makes a printer switch but, since the printers were wearing
out too, I bought printers with network ports... hp LaserJet 2015dn
and hp OfficeJet Pro K850.

Got one of those as well (Brother MFC). Also has fax, copier and scanner
in there. The sheet feeder is really nice. Every year I had to copy a
huge stack of papers before giving them to my CPA, in case they get
lost. Now it's really easy: Put stack in MFC, hit scan to file button on
PC, go do something else. No waste of paper and 15 minutes later it's
all in one PDF file. Sweet.


We also have a Dymo LabelWriter 400, but it's local to my wife's
machine.

We still write labels by hand, or I print, glue to blank label, then stick.

We have ~1000 Girl Scouts... we're neighborhood level now, and I'm the
neighborhood cookie manager ;-)
That sure explains the label printer.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
 
mad.scientist.jr@gmail.com wrote:

slider wired to signal out
the farther to the right
it's moved, the more
resistant material the
signal has to travel through
thus higher resistance
v
___
|
signal in->====================
^
strip of resistant-but-somewhat-
conducting material

I would be looking for something that would be pretty durable and
cheap & easy to build. Something involving liquids wouldn't work.
What about liquids that become solids? Epoxy resin, roe
instance. If you could come up with a mold for a strip of
epoxy loaded with graphite powder, you might be able to make
a slightly conductive strip. Then use plain epoxy to glue
that to an insulating backing strip.
 
Jamie wrote:
Joerg wrote:

Jamie wrote:

Joerg wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:

On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 16:17:17 -0800, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:

On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 15:56:55 -0800, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Is there a really, really detailed schematic with guaranteed
output voltage limits versus sink current for the LM324? Most
look like this:

http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM124.pdf

Obviously, page 8 top left and the schematic show that one can
get to around 700mV above the negative rail at 1mA, one BE drop
of Q13 plus the saturation voltage (or close to it) of Q12. But
no "hard" data anywhere.


You don't like page 4 ?:)

Nope, they only give one value there, how much current it is
guaranteed to drive when at 2V above the rail (10mA). Then uA
value stated for 200mV isn't too useful, it just confirms that the
current source outlined in the schematic actually made it into
production ;-)

10mA is pretty much at the point where the output device loses it.
Not a terribly useful piece of information.



WHY are you using an LM324... CHEAPSKATE ?:)


Umm, yes, that would be correct. Also the sheer number of suppliers,
no single-sourced parts around here unless there really is a
compelling reason. And usually there isn't a compelling reason.

BTW my Barricade needed a few power cycles over the last week. Not
good. What did you buy to replace yours? Tried a firmware upgrade
before? Of course the real cheapskate fix would be to plug it into a
timer that turns it off for an hour after midnight :)

Unfortunately I am going to need that printer port in there ...

Yes, Replace the caps.
I had some issues with my not to long ago.


Thanks. The electrolytics in the power supply inside the router?
That's kind of disappointing. Those routers used to be on the pricier
side, metal case, no wall wart and all that.

I'm on my second unit. the first one lasted about 8 hours. I unplugged
it from the service because a severe storm was coming in and I had just
got cable internet.. I went to work, my step son got home and thought he
was mighty smart!. I had other adapters there in the same area
unplugged. He didn't bother to look or care if they were correct of not,
all he wanted was the internet.. So, my first unit was a 5 volt DC
wallwart unit. I had a 12 AC wall wart there unplugged. so you can guess
which one went into the router.
Of course, it was all my fault which it usually is. I can say with
confidence, that boy does not share my gene pool.

The one I have now uses a 12 volt AC wallwart and the PSU is internal
with electro caps ..
Mine dried up and lost value... Caused unstable supply.
That must have been anotehr router. Mine has a SMPS built-in.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
 
Joerg wrote:
Jamie wrote:

Joerg wrote:

Jamie wrote:

Joerg wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:

On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 16:17:17 -0800, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:

On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 15:56:55 -0800, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Is there a really, really detailed schematic with guaranteed
output voltage limits versus sink current for the LM324? Most
look like this:

http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM124.pdf

Obviously, page 8 top left and the schematic show that one can
get to around 700mV above the negative rail at 1mA, one BE drop
of Q13 plus the saturation voltage (or close to it) of Q12. But
no "hard" data anywhere.



You don't like page 4 ?:)

Nope, they only give one value there, how much current it is
guaranteed to drive when at 2V above the rail (10mA). Then uA
value stated for 200mV isn't too useful, it just confirms that
the current source outlined in the schematic actually made it
into production ;-)

10mA is pretty much at the point where the output device loses
it. Not a terribly useful piece of information.




WHY are you using an LM324... CHEAPSKATE ?:)


Umm, yes, that would be correct. Also the sheer number of
suppliers, no single-sourced parts around here unless there really
is a compelling reason. And usually there isn't a compelling reason.

BTW my Barricade needed a few power cycles over the last week. Not
good. What did you buy to replace yours? Tried a firmware upgrade
before? Of course the real cheapskate fix would be to plug it into
a timer that turns it off for an hour after midnight :)

Unfortunately I am going to need that printer port in there ...

Yes, Replace the caps.
I had some issues with my not to long ago.


Thanks. The electrolytics in the power supply inside the router?
That's kind of disappointing. Those routers used to be on the pricier
side, metal case, no wall wart and all that.

I'm on my second unit. the first one lasted about 8 hours. I unplugged
it from the service because a severe storm was coming in and I had just
got cable internet.. I went to work, my step son got home and thought
he was mighty smart!. I had other adapters there in the same area
unplugged. He didn't bother to look or care if they were correct of
not, all he wanted was the internet.. So, my first unit was a 5 volt
DC wallwart unit. I had a 12 AC wall wart there unplugged. so you can
guess which one went into the router.
Of course, it was all my fault which it usually is. I can say with
confidence, that boy does not share my gene pool.

The one I have now uses a 12 volt AC wallwart and the PSU is internal
with electro caps ..
Mine dried up and lost value... Caused unstable supply.


That must have been anotehr router. Mine has a SMPS built-in.

Really, they made like 4 different units supporting the same external
options.
Mine has 4 Eports and 1 WAN, 1 printer and 1 serial port for external
back up modem


--
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"
 
Jamie wrote:
Joerg wrote:
Jamie wrote:

Joerg wrote:

Jamie wrote:

Joerg wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:

On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 16:17:17 -0800, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:

On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 15:56:55 -0800, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Is there a really, really detailed schematic with guaranteed
output voltage limits versus sink current for the LM324? Most
look like this:

http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM124.pdf

Obviously, page 8 top left and the schematic show that one can
get to around 700mV above the negative rail at 1mA, one BE
drop of Q13 plus the saturation voltage (or close to it) of
Q12. But no "hard" data anywhere.



You don't like page 4 ?:)

Nope, they only give one value there, how much current it is
guaranteed to drive when at 2V above the rail (10mA). Then uA
value stated for 200mV isn't too useful, it just confirms that
the current source outlined in the schematic actually made it
into production ;-)

10mA is pretty much at the point where the output device loses
it. Not a terribly useful piece of information.




WHY are you using an LM324... CHEAPSKATE ?:)


Umm, yes, that would be correct. Also the sheer number of
suppliers, no single-sourced parts around here unless there really
is a compelling reason. And usually there isn't a compelling reason.

BTW my Barricade needed a few power cycles over the last week. Not
good. What did you buy to replace yours? Tried a firmware upgrade
before? Of course the real cheapskate fix would be to plug it into
a timer that turns it off for an hour after midnight :)

Unfortunately I am going to need that printer port in there ...

Yes, Replace the caps.
I had some issues with my not to long ago.


Thanks. The electrolytics in the power supply inside the router?
That's kind of disappointing. Those routers used to be on the
pricier side, metal case, no wall wart and all that.

I'm on my second unit. the first one lasted about 8 hours. I
unplugged it from the service because a severe storm was coming in
and I had just
got cable internet.. I went to work, my step son got home and thought
he was mighty smart!. I had other adapters there in the same area
unplugged. He didn't bother to look or care if they were correct of
not, all he wanted was the internet.. So, my first unit was a 5 volt
DC wallwart unit. I had a 12 AC wall wart there unplugged. so you can
guess which one went into the router.
Of course, it was all my fault which it usually is. I can say with
confidence, that boy does not share my gene pool.

The one I have now uses a 12 volt AC wallwart and the PSU is
internal with electro caps ..
Mine dried up and lost value... Caused unstable supply.


That must have been anotehr router. Mine has a SMPS built-in.

Really, they made like 4 different units supporting the same external
options.
Mine has 4 Eports and 1 WAN, 1 printer and 1 serial port for external
back up modem
Similar here except it has 7 LAN ports. But no wall wart. Also, the
whole metal box remains remarkably cool.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
 
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