audio recording on IC -help wanted

Christian <mail@christiangroeger.de> wrote in news:5n1psbFftiuhU1
@mid.uni-berlin.de:

Hi,

I bought a kind of old device with lcd-display i'd like to use. But I
can't find any information about the components in that device. Maybe
anyone here can provide me with a datasheet or information about
similar
chips.
Thanks in advance.

The Display is a Toshiba TLX-1501-C3M with a 16-pin connector, I
figured
out that pin 7 is GND and pin 6 is +5V.
The controller for that display is a M6355 by OKI Japan. It seems that
pins 1-3 and 9-16 of the display-connector are directly connected to
the
OKI-chip.
How old a device?

Is it a a dot-matrix or other sort of display?

Do you think it could be a Hitachi HD447800 based clone?
 
On Wed, 10 Sep 2008 13:13:06 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
<speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote:

On Wed, 10 Sep 2008 11:56:37 -0500, John Fields
jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Wed, 10 Sep 2008 09:35:51 -0700 (PDT), Paul <energymover@gmail.com
wrote:

On Sep 10, 9:07 am, John Larkin
jjlar...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote:
You could temperature control an opamp, or put a temperature sensor
nearby and tweak a compensation factor.

Thanks for the good advice. I just have a bit of experience in temp
controlling op-amps, but it sounds worth it. I nearly have a truck
load
of thermistors ranging from 402 SMD to the typical large round
versions. As far as I know it would take a bit of trial and error to
calibrate such a thermistor offset circuit for the op-amp? Also I
suppose there's no reason to add more thermal insulation to prevent
the op-amp temperature from varying as much.

---
"No reason _not_ to add", yes? Also,:

http://www.isotemp.com/product.html

JF

One reason not to put an electrometer amplifier in an oven is that
you'll greatly increase the input bias current at normal operating
temperatures (since the oven has to run somewhat hotter than the
hottest possible Ta to be effective).
---
OK, then, how about in a little Peltier fridge? :)

JF
 
Subject: Re: MI5 says "Kill Yourself"
Newsgroups: uk.misc,uk.legal,uk.politics.misc,uk.media
References: <zlsiida.4248.3258FE24@fs1.mcc.ac.uk> <53eeev$cmg@axalotl.demon.co.uk> <5$
Organization: Toronto Free-Net
Distribution:

iain@hotch.demon.co.uk (Iain L M Hotchkies) wrote:
Indeed. If you've ever had a 'conversation' with someone suffering
from florid schizophrenia, you'll know how difficult it can be to
'argue' with them.
I don't have florid symptoms. But I'm in a difficult situation, because those
people who don't know, aren't going to believe, and those who do, they just go
along with the crowd. It's never a good idea to go against the grain, and the
grain here is defined by interests in the establishment and the media. Even
people who could say out loud what was happening won't, because then there's a
risk that they'll be seen as traitors and ostracised.

Usually this type of 'hidden abuse' is racial and targetted at a racial
minority within a country. You keep the minorities out of the good jobs, but
you don't admit discrimination exists. It happens everywhere, not just in
Britain. The persecution that is going on now is in reality a refined form of
racism. Instead of "nigger" it's "nutter", and abusing the mentally ill is
still socially acceptable today. In 50 years it might not be, but today there
isn't any social or legal sanction against it.

So really they've refined racial harassment down to a minority of one. The
words may be different, but the methods are the same.

5244


--
Posted via NewsDemon.com - Premium Uncensored Newsgroup Service
------->>>>>>http://www.NewsDemon.com<<<<<<------
Unlimited Access, Anonymous Accounts, Uncensored Broadband Access
 
Kevin McMurtrie wrote:

In article <7GGji.18519$2v1.10215@newssvr14.news.prodigy.net>,
John Doe <jdoe@usenetlove.invalid> wrote:

"Albert Manfredi" <albert.e.manfredi@nospam.com> wrote:

pfjw@aol.com> wrote:

Issues with LEDs today:

Color rendering
Diffusion

Once those are solved effectively, they will be excellent
alternatives. My guess is 5 years to color rendering, and 5 more to
diffusion. Most LEDs today filter a single color to a specific
monochromatic output. Even the LED-type flashlights are very
heavily skewed to the blue end of the spectrum in order to get
sufficient brightness, and require multiple LEDs to get even a
minor beam with very poor diffusion.

But you can use a combination of red, green, and blue high intensity
LEDs, to create any variant of "white" that you prefer. From what
Ive read so far, the efficiency of the new high intensity LEDs is
almost identical now to that of CFLs, which means about the same
lumens for 1/4 or 1/5th the power of an equally bright incandescent
bulb.

Don't believe everything you read.

Experience is the best teacher.

In other words, LEDs suck for bright light sources.

However, the hype is good for selling them to fools over the
TV/Internet. Like that one guy selling LED light bulbs on TV (USA). He
doesn't explicitly say that they're bright as a lightbulb, but they
are in a lightbulb package and used in the commercial as if they were
a lightbulb. Some people probably fall for that.

The weird thing about LEDs is that they would last such a long time
that they wouldn't need replacement. In principle, you can build
them right into the lamp itself. Or in walls, or whatever.

Right, but pointless except for low light applications.


http://www.lumileds.com/products/line.cfm?lineId=19

145 Typical lumens from 700mA @ 3.6V, or 58 lumens per watt. The LED is
a surface mount chip 3.1 x 4.6 x 2.1 millimeters in size. A thin strip
of 12 of these chips puts out light comparable to a 100W tungsten lamp
but only uses 30W.

I'm using 8 of the older Luxeon K2 LEDs in a bicycle light. The output
is nothing short of impressive. It's brilliant at just 5W of input
power. Crank it up to 40W and it puts car headlights to shame.
 
I think so.

"Ale" <alejandrocavalieri@gmail.com>
???????:1193686107.585592.299230@57g2000hsv.googlegroups.com...
On 28 oct, 17:52, "Patrick - townt.com"
<patrick.che...@towntarget.com.hk> wrote:
I only know S27328 is make by NS, not data for FS27328

P

"Patrick - townt.com" <patrick.che...@towntarget.com.hk
źśźgŠóślĽóˇsťD:4723c1e6$...@rain.i-cable.com...



it seem you may search with google.com or alldatasheet.com

"Ale" <alejandrocavali...@gmail.com
???????:1193347020.291322.133...@k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
Hello:

If it possible to get a transistor? "FS27328 008" datasheet?.I guess
it's TO-39 pack.- Ocultar texto de la cita -

- Mostrar texto de la cita -
Thanks for answer, is NS National Semiconductor? I think S27328
datasheet is what i'm looking for.
 
hi, i`m making up a power supply , with four 78 XX series regulators
and lm317 adjustable reg.

is it ok to bolt all these on the same heatsink without insulating
washers ?

thanks,
mark k
 
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On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 17:23:30 -0800 (PST), bill.sloman@ieee.org
wrote:

On Jan 27, 4:17 pm, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:
On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 10:16:37 -0800 (PST), bill.slo...@ieee.org
wrote:





On Jan 26, 3:57 pm, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:
On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 20:27:44 -0800 (PST), bill.slo...@ieee.org
wrote:

On Jan 26, 2:08 am, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:
On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 14:36:13 -0800 (PST), bill.slo...@ieee.org
wrote:

On Jan 25, 6:08 pm, mad.scientist...@gmail.com wrote:
I am interested in building a "selector" gadget for devices that take
jumpers
to select a program, such as this game cartridge where you have 5
jumpers
to select program #0-31 (the jumpers represent the binary number):

snip

Why don't you just use a rotary switch which opens and closes four
outputs. You can get binary coded decimal or hexadecimal - if you use
a hex switch your users have to understand the the sequence
0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,A,B.D,E,F.

---
What, no "C"? ;)
---

Oops. That should have been 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,A,B,C,D,E,F. Sorry.

Farnell stocks both kinds of switch in a variety of formats, and there
must be other broad-line distributors who cater to the segment of the
market.

It's a lot easier and cheaper than programming a PIVC and wiring up 7-
segment displays.

---
You still have to wire up seven-segment displays, and you still have
to wire up them up to BCD to seven-segment decoder-drivers, and you
have to wire the inputs of the decoder-drivers to pulled-up or
pulled-down switch contacts, so the only advantage is not having to
use logic to drive the decoder inputs.

Hexadecimal rotary switches have a pointer on the rotating bit which
points to the appropriate number out of the 16 printed on the front of
the part - you see the numbers and the pointer by virtue of the light
reflected from them.

---
Not always, and why are you going on about a 16 state hexadecimal
switch which can only switch between 16 channels when the OP said
he's looking for a BCD display and the ability to switch between 32
channels?

You do know how BCD works, don't you?
---

Sure. But what the client asks for, what the client wants, and what
the client needs are three different things.

---
And you, of course, are the one who will determine what the client
gets?

Don't be silly. The client makes up their own mind. The trick is give
them the information they need to make a choice that they are happy
with at the time, and will stay happy with for some time to come.
---
OK, the OP has all of the stuff I proposed and by now he must have
read your "contribution", so let's wait and see what he decides he
wants to do. Unfortunately, if he decides in my favor, I'm sure
you'll heap some abuse on him for making that choice since you've
already done so with that slur demeaning his .sig for no reason at
all other than to drag him down.
---

snipped irrelevant joke

You get satisfied customers by giving them what they need at minimum
expense. If they really need a BCD display, that's what you give them,
but if they can settle for two parallel octal rotary switches
displaying all the octal numbers from 00 to 37 or one hex rotary
switch plus a toggle switch the circuit can be much simpler and
appreciably cheaper

---
What a horse's ass you are.

In your opinion - as if it mattered.
---
It must, since you keep replying, trying to convince me (as well as
yourself) that it doesn't.

Like saying it often enough will make it true?
---

One gets satisfied customers by giving them what they want, and
second guessing them by telling them that what they really need and
what you'll provide them with is the Stilton you've selected for
them instead of the Roquefort they really want isn't going to get
you many happy campers.

You don't second guess them - you offer them them Stilton and
Roquefort as alternatives to the Kraft Cheddar they learned about the
school canteen.

Or, BTW, many employment offers.

And 555 experts get job offers from all over the world?
---
I can't speak for anyone else, and I don't get job offers, but I do
get design work from clients all over the world.

You, however, vehemently being a 555 adversary, (and certainly not
an expert) seem to have become unemployable.

Cause and effect?

Perhaps you should start brushing up on your 555 skills; you might
at least then qualify for an entry level technician position in one
of the myriad firms which has passed you by.
---

Wasting time and effort duplicating this with a
seven segment display

snipped the fun bit

Besides, the OP stated that he wanted to use seven-segment displays
so, unlike you, who wants to shove his "solutions" down everybody's
throats I prefer to give 'em what they ask for.

I prefer to give them what they want, rather than what they ask for.

---
No, you prefer to give them what you think they should have.
---

Sure. They are less likely to come back bitching about me not telling
them about a better solution when they find out it exists.
---
Like something other than that hex abortion you proposed, with that
afterthought toggle switch to get you from 15 to 31?
---

But then
again, your customers would not be all that enterprsing to start with.
---
Well, Bill, I have customers and you don't so you really don't have
much of a soapbox to be preaching from. Moreover, you don't know
who my customers are, so you're just pissing in the wind, as usual.
---

Getting them to understand what they actually want can take a while
and requires some diplomacy - not one of my strong points and not a
skill user groups offer the space to exercise.

---
I think the problem isn't one of their being able to determine what
they want, it more like your _not_ being able to determine what they
want and trying to force your decision of what they need down their
throats.
---

Well, you would like to think that.
---
That's exactly what I think, not what I'd "like to think."

Is English not your first language?
---

If he wants to use an UP/DOWN pushbutton scheme, or a pot and an
ADC, that's fine with me and I enjoy the exercise of executing the
design, while it seems all you enjoy is trying to execute the
designer.
---

One of the marks of a good designer is that capacity to step back and
see what the client wants done - this does require some understanding
of what the client might be trying to achieve, and can frequently
avoid a great deal of unnecessary elaboration.

---
Yes, and you certainly proved that you had no clue that the OP
_wanted_  to be able to switch 31 channels and get a decimal
representation of the hot channel decimally when you unnecessarily
elaborated on that totally useless hexadecimal implementation.
---  

I was perfectly well aware that the OP wanted to select one of 31
channels.
---
One of 32 channels.
---

It is less clear that they needed - or really wanted - an
eleborate, expensive and complicated decimal display of the channel
number.
Here, since it seems you misunderstood it the first time around, is
the OP's post:

"I am interested in building a "selector" gadget for devices that
take jumpers to select a program, such as this game cartridge where
you have 5 jumpers to select program #0-31 (the jumpers represent
the binary number):

http://www.retroblast.com/Misc/Vectrex.php
http://www.retroblast.com/images/stories/Image/rb_archive/photos/vectrex/Vectrex_Review%20(4).JPG
http://www.retroblast.com/images/stories/Image/rb_archive/photos/vectrex/Vectrex_Review%20(12).JPG

The selector would have two 7-segment LEDs that display the
currently selected program number (0-31), and a couple pushbuttons
(+/-) that let you increase/decrease the program #. The device
translates the number into binary and turns on/off the appropriate
switches or relays which are attached to the jumpers on the device
(ie the above game cartridge).

Or I would even like to build a kind of analog to digital converter
device which has a potentiometer (for example 100k) which gets
translated into an 8-bit number (0-255) and 8 switches get
opened/closed that represent the value of the pot. Adding three
7-segment LEDs to display the current value in decimal would be cool
and then it could be used as a "selector" as well.

Does anyone know of any plans or schematics out on the Web to
construct something like these? (For now I just wire switches to the
jumpers.)

Thanks."


Notice that he spells out, rather unambiguously, that he wants a way
to generate a 5 bit binary number manually (in order to select one
of 32 channels addressed in binary) and to represent the selected
channel in decimal notation using two or three seven-segment
displays.

As for the (Digi-Key) cost of the display:

LED DISPLAY, LUMEX LDS-A414RI 1.57 3.14
DISPLAY DRIVER, TI 74HC4511E 0.80 1.60

That comes to $4.74, which I don't think will exactly break the bank
and will give the OP exactly what he asked for/wants.
---

Which, when you look at the price of BCD encoded rotary switches
turns out to be a serious _dis_ advantage.

You can pay of the order of $20 (if the U.S. dollar hasn't completely
collapsed since I looked at this evening paper) for a fancy
hexadecimal switch intended to end up on the front panel of
"professional" gear, or you can pay a couple of dollars for a part in
a dual-in-line package intended to be soldered into a board.

---
Ah, but if the application calls for a front panel, then the panel
mounted rotary switch (or the ON/OFF pushbuttons, or the pot and
ADC, or the rotary encoder, or thumbwheel switches, etc, etc.) could
be used to good advantage, especially if the front panel was
screened with numerical switch position/channel legends.
---  

Silk-screened front panels cost money - for prototype work we just
used Letraset transfers onto brushed aluminium to create the legends
and protected them with a layer or two of polyurethane varnish.
Cheaper and a great deal quicker.

---
Yes, and I've used Dymo labels. So what?

Dymo labels look terrible and don't last.
---
So what?

They're cheap, easily replaceable, and a great deal quicker than
taking the time needed to line up press-on letters so they don't
look amateurish. Plus, once press-on letters are overspayed it's a
done deal so if you don't take care with the layout they'll look
like shit forever.

Dymo label legends look like shit to start out with, and everyone
expects them to, so there's no onus placed on anyone for that.
Plus, they're easy to read and, since you're the one who's bitching
about cost, should realize that they give a lot of bang for the
buck.
---

The point isn't that some panel marking methods are cheaper than
others, it's that, basically, your hex "solution" won't yield the
results the OP asked for.
---

No. But it might well serve the purpose.
---
So what? It's not what the OP described in his wish list, so
whether it serves the purpose or not is immaterial.

After all, he's currently doing the switching with wire jumpers
which also serve the purpose, but they're not what he wants and are
only a little bit more clumsy than your offering.
---

Even Texas now has minimum wage legislation, so spending a couple of
hours wiring up several unnecessary seven segment display would chew
up rather more money than you'd need to spend even on a professional
rotary switch.

---
Several hours???

I guess you've never heard of PCB mount seven-segment displays.

Laying out a board to create a single protoptype can be worth the
effort for very high speed electronics. For this sort of work a one-
off prototype is usually hand-soldered onto perforated prototyping
boards. You can wire-wrap the connections but I've not seen it done in
recent years.

---
Oh, well...

If I don't go directly from schematic to PCB that's exactly how I do
my prototypes and one-offs.  Vector T-44 terminals hot-pressed into
FR-4 perfboard with 0.025" diameter holes on a 0.1" rectangular
grid.

Components are mounted on the forked side of the terminal and the
connections wire-wrapped on the other side of the board.  For
high-frequency stuff I use single or double sided copper clad
perfboard and spot-face a 0.1" diameter space around the terminals.

Works great.
---

Wire-wrapping isn't all that quick - pushing the device into the
printed circuit board doesn't take long,
---
It's not printed circuit board, it's FR-4 perfboard.

Here:

http://www.vectorelect.com/Vectorbord.htm
---

but making all the necessary connections takes ages.
---
If you don't know how to wire-wrap and you have bad vision and
don't have the right tools, that's true.

However, that's not the case here.
---

snipped igression

What the client thought they wanted, not knowing what alternatives
were available.

---
You grasp at straws, Sloman.

The client described what he wanted to achieve and presented a
couple of ways he thought would get him where he wanted to be.

Your cockamamie hex rotary switch "solution", LOL, cannot by itself
a decimal display make.
---

If the OP actually needed a decimal display - in most cases all that
is necessary is an unambiguous indication of the channel selected and
a hexadecimal number serves the purpose just as well as a decimal
number - it isn't as if the OP wants to do arithmetic with the number
displayed.
---
Indeed, and that's exactly what he'd have to do to in order to
decode the hex legends on the switch along with the position of the
MSB toggle switch. Clumsy, at best.

Why can't you get it through that thick goddam skull of yours that
what's important here is to give the OP what he _wants_ instead of
insisting that he be subjected to the vagaries of your determination
of his needs?

From your past (and present) rhetoric it sounds to me like you think
you're uniquely qualified to determine what everyone's needs should
be and you'd like to be the one to dole out that amount.

I can see it now...

The Sloman approved haircut, mode of dress, political ideology, and
meal.

Remind you of anyone?


--
JF
 
On 28 Dec, 09:19, Clint Sharp <cl...@clintsmc.demon.co.uk> wrote:
In message
3539308b-6c3d-468b-90da-b85660a8d...@b38g2000prf.googlegroups.com>,
te...@hotmail.com writes>So have none of you out there reading this got a programmer or
anything that would read this chip ?

I would suspect that whatever security devices were built into the chip
by Motorola will have been enabled when the device was programmed by
whoever built the dashboard originally to prevent people reading the
code out.

It's highly likely that the mileage is stored in the EEPROM area of the
chip, not the main program flash and the companies that offer 'mileage
correction' are just reading and altering that area, having nothing to
do with program code.

As for the fault you have, it's more likely that whatever supply voltage
is used for your device has become marginal or the clock oscillator has
changed enough that the device can't start at lower temperatures,
possibly a combination of the two. If the device is mounted on a
flexible membrane then I'd suggest cracked tracks as another possiblity.

It's unlikely (but not impossible) that the device is faulty.

--
Clint Sharp
Hi,
Clint if you look at post #6 in this thread you can see 2 links to
pictures of the chip on the circuit board.

Yeah I believe the mileage is stored in the EEPROM area of the
chip.

Regards.
 
The LCD on our landline phones has become illegible. Is there a way to
restore the LCD, or do we just go get new phones?

Thanks.

Lynn Willis
 
I'm in the UK. I have the usual F-series connector on the coax
entering my cable modem.

http://www.newtechindustries.com/newtech/catalog/images/200-045.jpg

--------

I need to remove the connector every now and then so I lubed the
threads with a smear of vaseline.

At these RF frequencies (about 340 MHz) do I need to have true
electrical contact between the plug and socket or is close proximity
enough?

Would loose "hand tight" be sufficent?
 
On Wed, 24 Oct 2007 13:34:29 -0700, Joerg
<notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Hello Folks,

After some Google searching and perusing the sites of the usual
contenders I only found one uC family that has serious on-chip RF
transceiver capabilities, the Cypress CYWUSB6953 and its brethren.
rfPICs and others usually only have a transmitter.

Anyhow, the Cypress will only serve 2.45GHz but I need the lower UHF
bands for range reasons. Is anything coming down the pike soon or will
that have to remain a two-chip solution?
It would help if you had specified the country in which it should
operate. The frequency bands, the power levels and duty cycles vary
with country or at least with continent.

You said that the range was too short on 2.45 GHz. What kind of
propagation environment do you have ? Free space, lot of thick trees,
indoor or what ?

In a free space environment, the capture area of an omnidirectional
receiver antenna at a higher frequency can get quite small, thus the
receiver signal will be weaker. Also a lot of wet trees will attenuate
the 2.45 GHz signal.

On the other hand, in typical indoor situations and at the streets of
a large city, there are going to be plenty of reflections and the
propagation is more or less independent of the frequency. The shorter
wavelength might even propagate more easily through narrow slits in
air conditioning ducts etc.

Paul
 
On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 21:26:09 -0600, George <gh424NO824SPAM@cox.net>
put finger to keyboard and composed:

I've gotten myself into a spot of trouble, and would
appreciate some help with it.

This is a Bolun WR-601 wireless microphone, specifically the
receiver for that system, which is powered by a single AAA
alkaline battery. Current is 52 ma. with a new battery.
The system transmits at about 116 MHz.

I am changing the output connector of the receiver from a
1/4" phone plug (not all that useful anymore) to a 1/8"
socket, and that required cutting a notch in the PC board,
which in turn required moving a couple components. While
desoldering and resoldering one component, one lead pulled
out of it, so I need to replace this component with
something.

It is light green, and looks pretty much like a 1/4W
resistor. It is the only component connecting the positive
terminal of the battery to the On/Off switch.

The color bands are orange, orange, gold, silver. So that
would be either a 3.3-ohm resistor, or a 3.3 uH inductor.

I broke it apart, and it is indeed made of very fine copper
wire wound on a core of non-conductive black stuff.

Markings on the board are not all that helpful, but near
enough to possibly apply, but not necessarily, is
something that *might* read "L1".

Well, I'm leaning pretty hard toward it being an inductor,
probably to filter out any RF stuff that might be picked up
around the battery. And I can't think of a good reason to
have a 3.3-ohm resistor in that position. But I just wanted
to see if that makes sense to people who, unlike me, know
what they're doing.

If it is an inductor, I also need to know what I can get
away with as a replacement. I assume a jumper wire *might*
work well enough, but I also happen to have an inductor with
color bands blue, gold, grey, silver that came in a R/S coil
assortment. I have a dim memory of there being a slightly
modified color band scheme where the gold band acts like a
decimal point. If that's right, then this would be 6.8 uH,
which is only about double the original. In fact, I have
two of those, if that helps, so I could parallel them and
end up really close.

Well, I would appreciate some expert thoughts about this.
If it sounds like it's an inductor, the question is how
close the replacement needs to be. Am I right about the
value of the R/S inductors? If not, could I just make the
right coil myself?

Thanks for any suggestions.

By the way, for anyone interested, I got this system on Ebay for
$12.48 including shipping from Hong Kong. It actually works. You
get the lapel mic, the transmitter, and the receiver, but no
batteries. Works up to 20M away. Uses FM. Not exactly hi-fi, but
seems good enough for voice. It's available from several sellers.
The one I bought from was:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330174450908
It's probably a 3.3uH inductor. I can buy a bag of 5 for AU$1.20.

A 3.3 ohm resistor would drop 0.17V at 52mA which is a significant
loss for a 1.5V battery supply.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
 
On 2 Oct, 14:37, Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelati...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 22 Sep, 22:14, DJ Delorie <d...@delorie.com> wrote:
Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelati...@hotmail.com> writes:
Similar kind of thing. Except I only need a handful !

Next time someone tells me I'm wasting my time making my own boards,
I'm going to point them at this thread :)

Last time this came up, it got me thinking.  I can etch on 8 mil FR4,
and double-stick tape that to an unetched copper clad board, to get
what I think you're asking for.  But, not being an RF expert, I have
no idea how well it would "work".  I think it would be worth the
effort to find out if this is a viable RF prototyping platform, just
to satisfy my curiosity, if you can send me a PDF of a SS layout (no
vias ;).  Contact me off-list if you're interested.

That technique works very well. Someone mentioned the Wainwright
system, which is basically the same - they were sometimes used at
Racal Comms for RF prototypes when I worked there. I've used it
myself, etching the carriers at home.

Yes it was the Wainwright system I had in mind but I can find no info on
the web.

Graham
They were extremely expensive for little blank PCBs with double-sided
tape on the back. I liberated a few from the lab for my own use when I
was at Racal.

Leon
 
Lostgallifreyan wrote:
ehsjr <ehsjr@bellatlantic.net> wrote in news:qNlzi.11350$pf3.5813@trndny06:


"Don't bother" ?? How much stuff have you experimented with
this way to arrive at that conclusion? For the record, I've
done it many times - although I've never dried toroids.

As to running the fan if he wants to - we're talking about
a microwave oven that was thrown out. What's the problem
with modifying that?



In comparison with direct heating of the transformer core by putting
current through its windings, I don't think that a microwave oven shell can
compete.
Ah, I see what you're thinking now. I suggested the microwave
oven/light bulb in response to this:
"The sun has not shown itself for days, and is not expected to the
coming days.

I am now looking for a suitable secondhand mini oven at ebay and such
places."

I was not proposing it to compete with the technique of passing
current through the windings - it was intended as an alternative
to getting an oven from ebay.

I don't need to spell out the complications of trying, for that to
be clear. For some things an indirect source of heat inside a microwave
with the fan to help get vapour out is a good idea, but it's more awkward
and far less effective in this case.
Regarding effectiveness, how do you know it is
far less effective? Have you dried toroids by
passing current through them? Intuitively, I
would also think current through the toroid
to raise its temperature would be more effective
at drying it than raising ambient temperature, but
I have no experience with doing the former, so I
can't estimate how much more effective it would be.
That's why I ask.

It's not so much the experimenting that matters, just the quality of
observation.
But there has to be something to observe, so it is not
clear what you have in mind.

Ed

I admit to not thinking of direct self-heating first, but
credit where it's due, his idea to do that IS the best one.
 
Phil Allison wrote:
"Joerg"

It's ok for simple audio stuff. But we have to extricate signals in the uV
region.


** What the heck do you imagine all microphone, tape head and phono
pre-amps have been doing for the last 70 years - PAL ????


Grrrrrrrrrrr..........
Yes, electret microphones. I only know the cheaper ones and they had
rather mundane JFETs in there, not good enough here.

70 years, hmm, maybe I should check out nuvistors as well :)

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
 
One of the GE Weathertron Model 3AAT80B1A1 thermostats in our home is
doing its thing and when the temperature setting is increased a few
degrees above ambient the auxillary heaters come on OK to supplement the
heat pump's output.

The blue "Aux Heat" indicator recently stopped lighting in that mode. I
could live with it that way, but being an engineer I'm sort of anal
about having everything working the way it was designed to.

Does anyone happen to know the type number or the voltage/current
ratings of the "grain of wheat" incandescent indicator bulbs used in
those thermostats. (It's soldered in.)

It would be annoying to spend good money to replace an otherwise working
thermostat just for the want of a bulb.

I suppose I could measure the voltage and current draw of the working
bulb in our other identical thermostat, but I thought I'd ask here first.

Thanks guys,
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.
 
larwe zwsdotcom@gmail.com posted to sci.electronics.design:

So you mean some NEW designs are being done with MSP430 ?

Yes.

That does not mean the existing devices are going to
vanish any time soon.
(Indeed, if Ti are smart, the new devices will be pin-compatible.)

They definitely won't based on the discussions I've had. The first
part will be an all-singing-all-dancing part [i.e. someone's ASIC
sold to the general market]. Other versions will follow. I'd expect
to see early silicon at the end of next year.

Was TI the foundry for Chipcon, or did chipcon use a more
conventional foundry ?

I'm not sure, didn't follow the relationship that closely.
That was some odd pasting.
 
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