audio recording on IC -help wanted

[Don Klipstein]

In article <468742c7$0$14986$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au>, Mr.T wrote:

"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4686C2AA.62D46A3@hotmail.com...
You need at least a 23W CFL to match the output of a 100W incandescent.

Ony for a good one at the start of it's life. They get even dimmer with use
though.

The table here...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Incandescent_lamp#Power

Shows a 100W incandescent providing 1700 lumens.

I see 1710, 1730 and 1750 on packages having "standard" incandescents,
as low as 1670 for 750 hour soft white.

The lowest wattage CFLs I have seen produce 1700-plus lumens are the
Philips 25 watt SLS (1750 lumens) and 26 watt spirals.

In comparison some new CFLs I have claim only 1100 lumens for an 18W and
1200 lumens for a 20W.

I think some 18 watt ones produce 1200 lumens. A standard 75W
incandescent (120V 750 hour) produces 1190-1210 lumens. So optimistically
an 18W CFL in new condition will match that.

The 11W CFLs claim 600 lumens and that makes them only slightly brighter
than a standard 40W bulb instead of equivalent to a 60W as claimed.

I do wish they wouldn't make these silly claims for them.

They're probably comparing to an industrial service 60W incandescent,
which does indeed produce only about 600 lumens.

In my experience, a 13W CFL in new condition matches a 60W standard
incandescent when things are going well for the CFL.

The usual actual "standard incandescent" equivalences of CFLs in new
condition:

9W spiral - 40 watts

13W spiral - optimistically 60 watts
15W spiral - 60 watts fairly easily

18-20W spirals - 75 watts

23 watt spirals - between 75 and 100, good to perform as well as a 75
after they have aged or are running at non-optimum temperature.

25 watt Philips and 26 watt spirals - 100 watts

30 watt spirals - 100 watts after aging or when temperature is non-optimum

Me too, and those equally silly 8,000 hour claims.

That is for 3 hours per start in a 25 degree C ambient. This is the
actual industry standard for fluorescents. I think that a more
appropriate one for incandescent-replacement CFLs should be 1 hour per
start in a 40 degree C ambient.

Meanwhile, I do have CFLs normally last a few thousand hours.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com, http://www.misty.com/~don/cfx.html)

 

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[Eeyore]

Arfa Daily wrote:

There seems to be a point being missed here though. Governments are trying
to force these things on us. So they are now appearing in shops at very
cheap prices. That includes both 'reputable' makes, which must be being
subsidised by the manufacturers or somebody in the supply chain, as well as
'no names' that probably are Chinese manufactured shit. How is Joe Public to
know which he is buying, when they are all the same price?

Most ppl I know recognise the Philips brand name. These are the ones that seem
to be being subsidised, currently 39p each in Morrisons with an E-on (power
company) logo.


Graham

 

[larwe]

Can someone suggest a reasonably-priced monochrome camera module (I
can live with color but don't need it), VGA-resolution camera module
with some kind of buffer and low-speed interface; SPI, I2C, RS232,
etc. SPI would be my preference.

I need two of them, and perhaps two spares, to build a demo platform
for a student to work with very simple stereoscopic machine vision.
Currently he is working with a PC and two USB webcams but he wants a
smaller system to go in a vehicle without requiring huge batteries,
plus he doesn't want the overhead of a USB stack. We've put together a
general block diagram for his circuit and have good candidates for
most of the components, but the cameras are a sticky point.

I really want uncompressed or lossless data (preferably de-Bayerized
if color) - we don't really want to deal with JPEG artifacts. 0.5-1fps
is fine.

All the cellphone camera modules I've looked at appear to be bare
image sensors requiring a real-time DMA port to acquire the data. The
Ovis-based hobbyist solutions like the C328R from <http://
www.electronics123.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2027/.f?sc=8&category=241> are
pretty much what I want, except for the unavoidable JPEG compression.

A $50 price point @ qty 5 is fairly sweet - obviously cheaper would be
better.

Thoughts?

Gracias.

 

[GPE]

"Joerg" <notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote in message
news:%Fn9i.13397$RX.11812@newssvr11.news.prodigy.net...

Hello Folks,

Ok, first, those card ejectors from RichCo and other mfgs don't seem to be
in stock anywhere. Is there a place that sells them by the dozens and not
truck loads?

Other: We've designed the boards per spec. Holes for the ejector 250mils
in, boards exactly Eurocard length (160mm) but the boards aren't flush
with the front rails of the VME cage. So maybe those ejectors wouldn't
work anyhow.

Are there any "pull tools" available? We used to have those for ultrasound
machines because ejectors were rattling to much. But that was many moons
ago and I don't have the foggiest where they came from. Basically they
caught the holes and then you cantilevered the board out. Of course,
engineers didn't want to be sissies so we kept pulling by hand until thick
callusses developed.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

VME?!?!
Wow, I remember VME... barely.

We used Schroff for VME front panels and hardware.
They used to advertise regularly for custom VME front panels in trade
magazines ... and a picture of my panel was always the one in the middle.

We never had problems with fit on the board. And it has been such a long
time since I've worked with these - I can't help with dimensions.

Good luck,
Ed

 

As far as I can see from the OnSemi datasheet, the MC33063ADR2G and
MC34063ADR2G are totally identical except for the specified
temperature range (-40 to +85degC vs 0 to +70degC).

Does anyone know of any physical difference between them, such as
altered package construction or materials?

Are the the 33063 devices actually tested at the -40 and +85degC
temperature extremes, or is the difference purely a way of promoting
the device for different market segments (with appropriate cost
adjustments)?

John

 

[Mr.T]

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:tg6hi.5673$ri2.5080@newsfe5-win.ntli.net...

As I said Graham, your faith in a system of democracy that allows the
small
man to have a say, is heartning even, but rather out of date I think.

By a couple of thousand years IMO. Democracy started and ended in ancient
Greece. Then quasi (representitive) democracy was invented, when they could
even be bothered with the pretence. Which wasn't all that often anyway.

We have not had democracy of that sort in the UK for at least the last 10
years

You think you did have it under Maggie Thatcher
But don't worry, The USA is worse under Bush, and so is Australia under
Howard.

MrT.

 

[128]

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[flexi-arduino-based]

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Cheers!

 

[Jim Thompson]

That is to wash my dick instantly after pulling my dick off the dog's ass.
So keep in mind folks if you don't want to carry that smelly cock to a
public place.



...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

America: Land of the Free, Because of the Brave

 

[Joerg]

Clifford Heath wrote:

Joerg wrote:
Eh? Did you find your way to this page: <http://www.atmel.com/dyn/
products/devices.asp?family_id=651
Says "Directory Listing Denied" :-(

The URL was broken, need to re-join it:
http://www.atmel.com/dyn/products/devices.asp?family_id=651>.

Thanks. But same as usual, only TX with uC, not transceivers with uC.

Is there anything with receive that reaches down to 144MHz (2 meter)
band?

You'll have to study the data sheets in detail, see if it can be goosed
down via another master oscillator etc. Most likely not if there are
frequency dependent parts inside. The area below 300MHz seems to be
strictly discrete and ASIC territory.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

 

[noone]

Ok, Thanks for reading my post.

I have a Taylor 68 A/M RF and AF sig gen (valve) off eBay, cheap.

Low volume on AF and low output RF signal. Tracked it down to the volume pot obviously.
100k lin with 2 pole switch on/off on the back. Gone to 380k with most of the track gone.

The worry I have is, it says nothing about power disipation of the track.
It's a fairly big pot at 40mm dia with a metal back, bakelite front and patent number 439028.
I don't want to put a standard modern one in just to have it go bang on me or cause more damage .

If you have any ideas or a circuit diagram that would help a lot.

Thanks

 

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[Percival P. Cassidy]

My mother-in-law spilled something on the handset of her CrystalTone
amplified telephone, and the outgoing volume level is now pathetic;
i.e., the people she calls can hardly hear her, even with the "boost"
button pressed.

The mic element looks pretty much the same as the electret ones sold by
Radio Shack, but I cannot detect a sufficient polarizing voltage for an
electret -- just 0.7V.

The only two mic elements RS lists are electret, and I have been unable
to track down any mic elements of a similar size that are not electret.

Any ideas?

Perce

 

On 4 jun, 13:42, mikko.syrjala...@NO.kronodoc.SPAM.com (Mikko
Syrjälahti) wrote:

I'm looking for a way to add a TNC connector to our PCB. The PCB will have
micro stripline or grounded coplanar waveguide circuit to which the signal
has to connect. 50ohms as usual.

Most PCB connectors seem to have two wires coming from the end of the connector
and I strongly suspect their matching integrity.

Does anyone know of suitable connector or matching characteristics of the forementioned
type of TNC connectors ?

There are coaxial sockets designed to provide a minimally reflective
transition from microstrip to coxial cable. IIRR TNC connectors are
too big to match to normal thickness PCB's and you'd probably have to
throw in some kind of inter-series connector to get the signal from a
sub-minature coax connector to TNC.

http://www.rosenberger.de/PDF/Publications/1_HF_Coaxial/00_Basics.pdf

seems to have some SMCC connectors that might do what you want.

http://www.pasternack.com

might be another source.

--
Bill Sloman, Nijmegen

 

[Brendan Gillatt]

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Michael Black wrote:

On Tue, 3 Jun 2008, Brendan Gillatt wrote:

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Phil wrote:
Having a separate switch is not ideal since in this
case.

Any ideas anyone?

Could you just diode OR the switch to both contacts?

But he wants to activated two different things, but in the same
mechanical space.

Like he said, press the button a tiny bit, and it adjusts
the autofocus (and activates the LCD panel if it had gone
to sleep). Press the button a bit harder, and the camera
actually takes a picture.

One button switch connected to two functions wont' allow
you to do the actions independently.

I understood he just wanted to take a photo and the fact that it kept
going to sleep was preventing the shutter from being released. By ORing
them together the camera is woken up just as the photo is taken.

- --
Brendan Gillatt | GPG Key: 0xBF6A0D94
brendan {a} brendangillatt (dot) co (dot) uk
http://www.brendangillatt.co.uk
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[legg]

On 4 Jun 2008 18:54:13 GMT, ba221@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Gaetan
Mailloux) wrote:

Hi

I would need the data sheet for the TD6709 DAC chip.

I can not find it with Google.

What else is on the body of the part. Mfr logo of any kind?

Where is it used/from?

RL

 

[Eeyore]

Phil Allison wrote:

"Eeysore Fucking CUNTHEAD "

** See the word " impending " ????

Need to look up a dictionary - do you fuckwit ?

Was in all the news papers.

Newspapers don't make the law.

Graham

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Mon, 22 Dec 2008 11:28:24 -0000, Ron(UK) <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote:

jakdedert wrote:
Ron(UK) wrote:
Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
Peter Hucker wrote:

LESS THAN A YEAR?!?!?! I have Duracells with a use by date of about 4
or 5 years in the future.


So do I. They rarely last more than a year before they leak, and some
brands even less. Before they changed from some anonymous Chinese
manufacturer to GPT, the Office Depot brand sold here lasted 3-4 months.


An awful lot of the 'Duracells' you'll find in discount places,
markets, etc. are chinese fakes. A genuine Procell PP3 has six
cylindrical cells which look like a small AAA cell. The ripoffs I`ve
seen have flat cells. You can barely tell the difference from external
appearances alone - the price should be your guide.

Ron(UK)

They are actually AAAA cells.....

Same in an Energizer, the difference is that the cells in a Procell
are connected by spotwelded on flat metal strips
In an Energizer, pressure alone connects the cells to the top terminals
and bottom conductors. That might explain why they sometimes
inexplicably fail after a few minutes.

I though "Procell" was one of those cheap makes you get in Farnell?

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

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