D
Don Y
Guest
On 5/19/2022 11:30 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
I put a short length of chain terminated in a steel ring (thickness
of the \"ring\" on the back of car) with a short bungy cord on the
other end (terminating in its hook).
Chain Bungy
O888888~~~~~~~~C
Ring 8 Hook
8 excess chain
8
Place the ring in the catch and let the hatch grab it and \"suck it in\".
Use the hook on the other end of the bungy cord to engage the \"ring\"
at the bottom of the cargo area. So, there is some \"give\" to the tie down.
If you need to have the hatch a bit more open (to accommodate something
\"thicker\"), move the bungy to expose another link in the chain while
keeping the same tension on the bungy cord.
Slip a furniture pad (Harbor Freight) between the hatch and the item
its being held against -- and another *under* the item between it
and the cargo floor. So, when the hatch bounces -- as you navigate
the potholes and speed bumps in the neighborhood -- it has some
cushion (I keep several furniture pads in the car at all times as
there\'s often something that needs to be isolated from the vehicle\'s
interior surfaces, even if the hatch CAN close)
[This assumes the hatch can be held AGAINST whatever is sticking out
the ass end of the vehicle, under the tension of the bungy cord]
I\'d not want to drive long distances like this but it has been
quite good for the 2-3 mile trip to home depot, lowes, etc.
[Store the contraption in the \"trunk\" (spare tire storage area)
as you never know when you will need it]
Hinges aren\'t accessible \"over the outside\" when the hatch is
going to be almost closed; there\'s a rubber seal there (the
hinges are inboard of the door) so barely room for a bit of twine!
Wiper axle seems like it\'s an invitation for a \"wiper repair\"!
(That was my first idea, thankfully rejected.)
There are some tie points on the sides of the cargo area. But, the
\"ring\" that the hatch normally catches is much easier to access
and better positioned.
Spare wheel is under the cargo area (SUV) so you\'d have to remove the
\"floor insert\" to get access to the wheel. Then, where do you put
that large piece of \"floor\" while you\'re transporting cargo?
Rear seat needs to be folded down. As does the passenger seat, often.
But, I can easily carry 12 ft lumber, copper/PVC tubing, etc. like
this (furniture pads used to protect seat leather, etc.). Reserve those
favors you ask of neighbors with trucks to the really difficult
transports!
Would it have been so hard for the manufacturer to have anticipated this?
(I suspect driving with the hatch open -- in any way -- would likely
be seen as a liability issue.)
In a previous hatchback, I could lie in the back and HOLD the hatch
closed. Used this technique to transport many 10\' trees home when
we were landscaping the yard!
But, this hatch has too much mass (inertia) to be comfortable doing so.
First bump would have it flying open with me attached!
I put a short length of chain terminated in a steel ring (thickness
of the \"ring\" on the back of car) with a short bungy cord on the
other end (terminating in its hook).
Chain Bungy
O888888~~~~~~~~C
Ring 8 Hook
8 excess chain
8
Place the ring in the catch and let the hatch grab it and \"suck it in\".
Use the hook on the other end of the bungy cord to engage the \"ring\"
at the bottom of the cargo area. So, there is some \"give\" to the tie down.
If you need to have the hatch a bit more open (to accommodate something
\"thicker\"), move the bungy to expose another link in the chain while
keeping the same tension on the bungy cord.
Slip a furniture pad (Harbor Freight) between the hatch and the item
its being held against -- and another *under* the item between it
and the cargo floor. So, when the hatch bounces -- as you navigate
the potholes and speed bumps in the neighborhood -- it has some
cushion (I keep several furniture pads in the car at all times as
there\'s often something that needs to be isolated from the vehicle\'s
interior surfaces, even if the hatch CAN close)
[This assumes the hatch can be held AGAINST whatever is sticking out
the ass end of the vehicle, under the tension of the bungy cord]
I\'d not want to drive long distances like this but it has been
quite good for the 2-3 mile trip to home depot, lowes, etc.
[Store the contraption in the \"trunk\" (spare tire storage area)
as you never know when you will need it]
Hinges aren\'t accessible \"over the outside\" when the hatch is
going to be almost closed; there\'s a rubber seal there (the
hinges are inboard of the door) so barely room for a bit of twine!
Wiper axle seems like it\'s an invitation for a \"wiper repair\"!
(That was my first idea, thankfully rejected.)
There are some tie points on the sides of the cargo area. But, the
\"ring\" that the hatch normally catches is much easier to access
and better positioned.
Spare wheel is under the cargo area (SUV) so you\'d have to remove the
\"floor insert\" to get access to the wheel. Then, where do you put
that large piece of \"floor\" while you\'re transporting cargo?
Rear seat needs to be folded down. As does the passenger seat, often.
But, I can easily carry 12 ft lumber, copper/PVC tubing, etc. like
this (furniture pads used to protect seat leather, etc.). Reserve those
favors you ask of neighbors with trucks to the really difficult
transports!
Would it have been so hard for the manufacturer to have anticipated this?
(I suspect driving with the hatch open -- in any way -- would likely
be seen as a liability issue.)
In a previous hatchback, I could lie in the back and HOLD the hatch
closed. Used this technique to transport many 10\' trees home when
we were landscaping the yard!
But, this hatch has too much mass (inertia) to be comfortable doing so.
First bump would have it flying open with me attached!
