8V 40mA bi-pin lamp (Marantz)

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:b8vdoaFlnjnU1@mid.individual.net...
jfeng@my-deja.com

**Except that is a REALLY dumb idea. The dial scale in the old Marantz
recievers is blue.

Maybe, maybe not. If I had one in my inventory/junque box, I would
consider it a cheeap expeeriment and give it a try. If I could get one
for about a dollar, I would consider taking a chance.

** Wide angle, 5mm blue LEDs sell for about $1.00 each.

The correct 8V bi-pin lamps will cost you more.

You will need one resistor ( 470 ohms to 1kohms) for each LED and just
ignore the insane crap here from AD etc about visible flicker at 60Hz.

If there is (or you perceive) any flicker, just wire a bead tantalum across
each LED - just make sure there is *NO* reverse current.
 
It is to some of us. I find the PWM'd LED flicker of road works cone-top
beacons very annoying, as well as the flicker from PWM'd LED stop and tail
lights on some makes of car.




I have been wondering this for some time but can't seem to Google an answer:

In the last couple of years the road-work beacons in the UK have been able
to flash a long line of beacons in sequence, like an airport landing strip.
i.e. there is a sequenced line of flashes from near to far.
I think this can only happen if each individual beacon is able to
communicate with the next down the line.

The simplest solution to me would be to have a sensor pointed towards the
beacon up the line, that delays its own flash. This flash would then be
similarly delayed by the next beacon downline and so on.


Have you any idea how this really works?



Cheers,


Gareth.
 
"Ian Field = Fool"
Phil Allison

** LEDs are, believe it or not, DIODES !!

Having LEDs run on one half-phase of AC can cause flicker.

More importantly, you have to protect it on the alternate half-cycles, the
series resistor doesn't usually drop enough voltage at the reverse leakage
current to protect the typically 5V PIV.

** The spec of 5V is a nonsense.

Red LEDs take at least 9V reverse before any current flowed.

The white ones I have in stock took 22V with no current.



.... Phil
 
Gareth Magennis formulerede Sunday:
It is to some of us. I find the PWM'd LED flicker of road works cone-top
beacons very annoying, as well as the flicker from PWM'd LED stop and tail
lights on some makes of car.




There's an app note here for a Stop/Tail IC.

http://www.maximintegrated.com/app-notes/index.mvp/id/4316
(It claims an operating frequency of 200 Hz, but this is not necessarily what
is currently out there)


Seems a bit Sledgehammer To Crack a Nut to me, but there you go.
My current Stop and Tail technology is 2 wires and a cheap easily replaceable
dual filament bulb.
Which uses more energy, and breaks several times more often than LED.
Many drivers seems to lazy to check or fix their taillights.

Leif

--
Husk křrelys bagpĺ, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.
 
"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:b94m47FobcuU1@mid.individual.net...
"Ian Field = Fool"
Phil Allison

** LEDs are, believe it or not, DIODES !!

Having LEDs run on one half-phase of AC can cause flicker.

More importantly, you have to protect it on the alternate half-cycles,
the series resistor doesn't usually drop enough voltage at the reverse
leakage current to protect the typically 5V PIV.


** The spec of 5V is a nonsense.

Red LEDs take at least 9V reverse before any current flowed.

The white ones I have in stock took 22V with no current.

Getting away with a single static test is one thing - continuous repetitive
negative half-cycles might have a more tangible effect on LED life
expectancy.
 
On Monday, September 9, 2013 11:07:02 AM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:
"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message

news:b94m47FobcuU1@mid.individual.net...



"Ian Field = Fool"

Phil Allison



** LEDs are, believe it or not, DIODES !!



Having LEDs run on one half-phase of AC can cause flicker.



More importantly, you have to protect it on the alternate half-cycles,

the series resistor doesn't usually drop enough voltage at the reverse

leakage current to protect the typically 5V PIV.





** The spec of 5V is a nonsense.

Red LEDs take at least 9V reverse before any current flowed.

The white ones I have in stock took 22V with no current.

Getting away with a single static test is one thing - continuous repetitive
negative half-cycles might have a more tangible effect on LED life
expectancy.

Gotta agree with Phil, The 5V spec is nonsense. I haven't found an LEDs that (reverse bias) avalanche at any voltage less than 20V. If no current flows then what damage is done?

Phil, do you perhaps know the part number of the red LED that could only take 9V of reverse bias? I'd like to order some.

Oh.. most of the LED's I looked at took over 100 V of reverse bias till they avalanched.

George H.
 
"Leif Neland" <leif@neland.dk>


** Wot is WRONG with this wog idiot ??

** Just checked a bin of assorted LEDs for breakdown voltage with a test
current of around 10uA.

The lowest was 30V and the highest was 157V - both red LEDs.

A blue LED was 21V.

Two white LEDs were 42 and 61V

LEDs of the exact same type show similar figures, but the variation
between types is large.


If the variation is large,

** But the threshold is at least 30V for any red, green or amber LED !!!!!!

Generally much higher and easy to test.

if X percent of the LEDs have a breakdown voltage below the one in the
circuit,

** The application is replacing 6V and 12V lamps that run from AC.

Fuckwit .


..... Phil
 
Ian Field wrote:
"Mike Tomlinson" <mike@jasper.org.uk> wrote in message
news:1jVOMOOXdWKSFwmY@jasper.org.uk...
En el artículo <mn.31b07dd9e5677419.130671@neland.dk>, Leif Neland
leif@neland.dk> escribió:

The treatment could be botox at the vocal cords (would it help for
typing? Possibly in the hands instead) or brain surgery.

He'd have to have a brain in the first place to operate on.

And yet he still has more lucid moments than JF & JT put together!

Still trying to put them down, and I doubt either read the group when
it isn't cross posted to SED.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
 
ggherold@gmail.com
** The spec of 5V is a nonsense.

Red LEDs take at least 9V reverse before any current flowed.

The white ones I have in stock took 22V with no current.

Getting away with a single static test is one thing - continuous
repetitive
negative half-cycles might have a more tangible effect on LED life
expectancy.

Gotta agree with Phil, The 5V spec is nonsense.
I haven't found an LEDs that (reverse bias) avalanche at any voltage
less than 20V. If no current flows then what damage is done?

Phil, do you perhaps know the part number of the red LED that could only
take 9V of reverse bias?

Oh.. most of the LED's I looked at took over 100 V of reverse bias till
they avalanched.

** Just checked a bin of assorted LEDs for breakdown voltage with a test
current of around 10uA.

The lowest was 30V and the highest was 157V - both red LEDs.

A blue LED was 21V.

Two white LEDs were 42 and 61V

LEDs of the exact same type show similar figures, but the variation between
types is large.


.... Phil
 
Phil Allison tastede fřlgende:
** Just checked a bin of assorted LEDs for breakdown voltage with a test
current of around 10uA.

The lowest was 30V and the highest was 157V - both red LEDs.

A blue LED was 21V.

Two white LEDs were 42 and 61V

LEDs of the exact same type show similar figures, but the variation between
types is large.


Beancounting:

If the variation is large, if X percent of the LEDs have a breakdown
voltage below the one in the circuit, a reverse diode cost Y, the
repair cost is Z, collateral damage is P, damage to reputation is Q, do
you pur a reverse diode in?

Perhapes forward voltage is a median, but if reverse breakdown is
fatal, it is the 0.001 percentile or something.

"Don't exceed this voltage, one in ... might break". Don't want it to
be the gear down indicator on your next flight.

Leif

--
Husk křrelys bagpĺ, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.
 
On Thursday, September 12, 2013 12:03:52 AM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:
ggherold@gmail.com



** The spec of 5V is a nonsense.



Red LEDs take at least 9V reverse before any current flowed.



The white ones I have in stock took 22V with no current.



Getting away with a single static test is one thing - continuous

repetitive

negative half-cycles might have a more tangible effect on LED life

expectancy.



Gotta agree with Phil, The 5V spec is nonsense.

I haven't found an LEDs that (reverse bias) avalanche at any voltage

less than 20V. If no current flows then what damage is done?

Phil, do you perhaps know the part number of the red LED that could only

take 9V of reverse bias?

Oh.. most of the LED's I looked at took over 100 V of reverse bias till

they avalanched.

** Just checked a bin of assorted LEDs for breakdown voltage with a test

current of around 10uA.
The lowest was 30V and the highest was 157V - both red LEDs.
A blue LED was 21V.

Two white LEDs were 42 and 61V

LEDs of the exact same type show similar figures, but the variation between

types is large.

Grin.. yeah large variation. We're using these red led's (AND114R) as reverse biased photo detectors. Vbreak ~25 volts. The same company makes a similar led.. same material, same wavelength (AND113R) a bit more light. It's breakdown voltage is ~120 V.

Thanks for the measurements.

George H.
 
On Thursday, September 12, 2013 12:57:00 AM UTC-4, Leif Neland wrote:
Phil Allison tastede fřlgende:



** Just checked a bin of assorted LEDs for breakdown voltage with a test

current of around 10uA.



The lowest was 30V and the highest was 157V - both red LEDs.



A blue LED was 21V.



Two white LEDs were 42 and 61V



LEDs of the exact same type show similar figures, but the variation between

types is large.





Beancounting:



If the variation is large, if X percent of the LEDs have a breakdown

voltage below the one in the circuit, a reverse diode cost Y, the

repair cost is Z, collateral damage is P, damage to reputation is Q, do

you pur a reverse diode in?



Perhapes forward voltage is a median, but if reverse breakdown is

fatal, it is the 0.001 percentile or something.



"Don't exceed this voltage, one in ... might break". Don't want it to

be the gear down indicator on your next flight.

Huh? If it's critical just put another LED or diode back to back in parallel. (I wonder if someone already makes such a device.)

George H.
Leif



--

Husk křrelys bagpĺ, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske

beslutning at undlade det.
 
Phil Allison har bragt dette til os:

Fuckwit .


.... Phil

Your title should go below your name, not above.

Leif

--
Husk křrelys bagpĺ, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.
 
"Leif Neland" <leif@neland.dk>

Fuckwit.


Your title should go below your name,

** Your mother needs shooting.

What a vile piece of know nothing, autistic scum you are.

Get off this newsgroup for ever.




.... Phil
 
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:peydnQxjG925sqzPnZ2dnUVZ_gqdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
Ian Field wrote:

"Mike Tomlinson" <mike@jasper.org.uk> wrote in message
news:1jVOMOOXdWKSFwmY@jasper.org.uk...
En el artículo <mn.31b07dd9e5677419.130671@neland.dk>, Leif Neland
leif@neland.dk> escribió:

The treatment could be botox at the vocal cords (would it help for
typing? Possibly in the hands instead) or brain surgery.

He'd have to have a brain in the first place to operate on.

And yet he still has more lucid moments than JF & JT put together!


Still trying to put them down, and I doubt either read the group when
it isn't cross posted to SED.

Having KF'd JF months ago, I only see his insane ranting when someone else
replies to him - JT is becoming increasingly comedic, great stuff for a good
belly-laugh.
 
"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:b9d21cFg7rbU1@mid.individual.net...
"Leif Neland" <leif@neland.dk


** Wot is WRONG with this wog idiot ??


** Just checked a bin of assorted LEDs for breakdown voltage with a
test current of around 10uA.

The lowest was 30V and the highest was 157V - both red LEDs.

A blue LED was 21V.

Two white LEDs were 42 and 61V

LEDs of the exact same type show similar figures, but the variation
between types is large.


If the variation is large,


** But the threshold is at least 30V for any red, green or amber LED
!!!!!!

Generally much higher and easy to test.

if X percent of the LEDs have a breakdown voltage below the one in the
circuit,


** The application is replacing 6V and 12V lamps that run from AC.

It still exceeds what the manufacturer *GUARANTEES* that the part can
withstand.

If you want to take a chance running the part out of spec, that's your
choice.
 
<ggherold@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:faac58f2-0842-4b10-9501-182da3a56316@googlegroups.com...
On Thursday, September 12, 2013 12:57:00 AM UTC-4, Leif Neland wrote:
Phil Allison tastede fřlgende:



** Just checked a bin of assorted LEDs for breakdown voltage with a
test

current of around 10uA.



The lowest was 30V and the highest was 157V - both red LEDs.



A blue LED was 21V.



Two white LEDs were 42 and 61V



LEDs of the exact same type show similar figures, but the variation
between

types is large.





Beancounting:



If the variation is large, if X percent of the LEDs have a breakdown

voltage below the one in the circuit, a reverse diode cost Y, the

repair cost is Z, collateral damage is P, damage to reputation is Q, do

you pur a reverse diode in?



Perhapes forward voltage is a median, but if reverse breakdown is

fatal, it is the 0.001 percentile or something.



"Don't exceed this voltage, one in ... might break". Don't want it to

be the gear down indicator on your next flight.


Huh? If it's critical just put another LED or diode back to back in
parallel. (I wonder if someone already makes such a device.)

2-pin bi-colour LEDs exist - but the end result won't be either red nor
green.
 
Ian Field udtrykte prćcist:
ggherold@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:faac58f2-0842-4b10-9501-182da3a56316@googlegroups.com...
On Thursday, September 12, 2013 12:57:00 AM UTC-4, Leif Neland wrote:
Phil Allison tastede fřlgende:



** Just checked a bin of assorted LEDs for breakdown voltage with a
test

current of around 10uA.



The lowest was 30V and the highest was 157V - both red LEDs.



A blue LED was 21V.



Two white LEDs were 42 and 61V



LEDs of the exact same type show similar figures, but the variation
between

types is large.





Beancounting:



If the variation is large, if X percent of the LEDs have a breakdown

voltage below the one in the circuit, a reverse diode cost Y, the

repair cost is Z, collateral damage is P, damage to reputation is Q, do

you pur a reverse diode in?



Perhapes forward voltage is a median, but if reverse breakdown is

fatal, it is the 0.001 percentile or something.



"Don't exceed this voltage, one in ... might break". Don't want it to

be the gear down indicator on your next flight.


Huh? If it's critical just put another LED or diode back to back in
parallel. (I wonder if someone already makes such a device.)

Yes, that is my point.
2-pin bi-colour LEDs exist - but the end result won't be either red nor
green.

Here's some old news: http://ledsmagazine.com/news/3/11/14
One half of the led lights in the positive half-cycle, the other half
in the other half-cycle.

Leif

--
Husk křrelys bagpĺ, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.
 
Phil Allison tastede fřlgende:
"Black Iccy"


And just for kickers, the forward conduction breakdown from each diode, in
turn, ought to be lower than the reverse destruction breakdown voltage, in
my
experience anyway. Therefore a single dropping resistor would be effective.

** For interest sake, I checked a few 5mm white LEDs in stock for reverse
breakdown.

Each exceeded 21 volts with reverse current under 3uA ( maybe nothing)

Be fine with a 12.6V AC heater supply and ONE resistor.

It would be interesting to test this:

12V AC, one led with a dropping resistor, giving say 10mA.
Another led, with a diode in reverse, same size dropping resistor.

24V AC, similar circuits. (dropping resistor having the proper larger
value)

Run for a a couple of months, or until a led fails.

I bet it will be the one at 24V without diode in reverse.

Leif


--
Husk křrelys bagpĺ, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.
 
"Leif Neland" <leif@neland.dk>


** Fuck off RETARDED TROLL !!!!!!!!!!
 

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