8V 40mA bi-pin lamp (Marantz)

"dave" <ricketzz@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:sfadnZq5gaMnD7XPnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@earthlink.com...
On 09/04/2013 06:14 PM, Arfa Daily wrote:




Although of course, care needs to be taken that the lamps are actually
being fed with DC.

LEDs run fine on AC, as long as the voltage and current are within limits.

Which is exactly what I said. If running them on AC, they are fine as long
as the series resistor is of sufficient value to limit the forward current,
and the reverse voltage on the opposite half cycle does not exceed the
rather low PIV that LEDs tend to have. That aspect can be mitigated by
having a conventional diode in inverse parallel, but this will result in a
flicker at half the supply frequency that Phil can't see, but some of us
can, or by putting another LED in inverse parallel, which will conduct on
the opposite half cycle producing light, and clamping the reverse voltage
across the first diode to the value of the forward voltage of the second
diode, different, of course for different colours. The inverse is also true
that the first diode will clamp the reverse voltage across the second diode
on the opposite half cycle.

Arfa
 
On Wednesday, September 4, 2013 6:52:36 AM UTC-7, Tim Schwartz wrote:
Hello all,

Anyone know of a generic lamp that is an 8 volt, 40 mA bipin type?
These are used as source indicators in receivers like the Marantz 2270
and 2275. The 6.3 volt 7380 is readily available, but won't last long
running on 8 volts, and gets too hot as well.

Are you sure they are bi-pin lamps? I own a couple Marantz receivers of that vintage (2215 and 2275), and they used "fuse lamps" which have the same dimensions as a 3AG fuse.

Of course a reliable vendor who sells them would be just as good.

The fuse lamps are readily available on eBay. You can also get them from All Electronics in Van Nuys, California; the 8V lamps are $1 each or $8.50 for 10, while 6V and 12V lamps are slightly cheaper.
 
"Arfa Daily"
"dave"
Arfa Daily wrote:



Although of course, care needs to be taken that the lamps are actually
being fed with DC.

LEDs run fine on AC, as long as the voltage and current are within
limits.


Which is exactly what I said.

** But not in the post that "dave" replied to.

My god you are a bullshitting ass.


.... Phil
 
"Arfa FUCKWIT Daily"
"Phil Allison"


** LEDs are, believe it or not, DIODES !!

So they can be used on low voltage ( ie 6.3V ) AC supplies with only a
series resistor.


Yes. However, they are not renowned for having a very high PIV, so
whilst you would probably get away with just a series resistor at low
AC,


** Jesus FUCKING CHRIST -

this IDIOT just DOES NOT READ !!!!!!!!!



No, it's YOU who either does not read,

** FFS - you REPEATED the info in MY post back to me !!!

You pompous, bullshitting, fucking nut case.



..... Phil
 
"Arfa Dickhead Daily"
** For typical red bezels or indicator lights, it is simply not
visible.


It is to some of us. I find the PWM'd LED flicker of road works cone-top
beacons very annoying,


** WTF has that got to do with my comment ?????????????????

Fuck of you pathetic pommy fool.


If you knew anything about anything, you would have understood that
traffic cone lights use LEDs, flashed at around 30 Hz,

** I live in Sydney.

The subject is LED bezels.

I was speaking from REAL experience - not making stupid guesess like you.

And YOU are the man with defective colour vision and gods know how many
other genetic defects.

BTW:

How many red LEDs have YOU used to replace the bezel lamps in Fender amps ??

There is no sign of flicker.

Surprising but true.


.... Phil
 
En el artículo <mn.31b07dd9e5677419.130671@neland.dk>, Leif Neland
<leif@neland.dk> escribió:

The treatment could be botox at the vocal cords (would it help for
typing? Possibly in the hands instead) or brain surgery.

He'd have to have a brain in the first place to operate on.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
 
Phil Allison sendte dette med sin computer:
"Arfa Dickhead Daily"


** For typical red bezels or indicator lights, it is simply not visible.


It is to some of us. I find the PWM'd LED flicker of road works cone-top
beacons very annoying,


** WTF has that got to do with my comment ?????????????????

Fuck of you pathetic pommy fool.

Have you had your Coprolalia disgnosed properly?

The treatment could be botox at the vocal cords (would it help for
typing? Possibly in the hands instead) or brain surgery.

Do you know how you got it?

If we know your bad behaviour is caused by a disease, it is easier to
forgive.


Leif

--
Husk křrelys bagpĺ, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.
 
On Fri, 6 Sep 2013 01:31:39 +0100, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>
wrote:

That aspect can be mitigated by
having a conventional diode in inverse parallel, but this will result in a
flicker at half the supply frequency that Phil can't see, but some of us
can, or by putting another LED in inverse parallel, which will conduct on
the opposite half cycle producing light, and clamping the reverse voltage
across the first diode to the value of the forward voltage of the second
diode, different, of course for different colours.

Surely, it will be at the _SAME_ frequency but exist as a light
source for only half the period (duty cycle). N'est-ce pas?
 
On 6/09/2013 2:50 PM, jfeng@my-deja.com wrote:
On Wednesday, September 4, 2013 6:52:36 AM UTC-7, Tim Schwartz
wrote:
Hello all,

Anyone know of a generic lamp that is an 8 volt, 40 mA bipin type?
These are used as source indicators in receivers like the Marantz
2270 and 2275. The 6.3 volt 7380 is readily available, but won't
last long running on 8 volts, and gets too hot as well.

Are you sure they are bi-pin lamps? I own a couple Marantz receivers
of that vintage (2215 and 2275), and they used "fuse lamps" which
have the same dimensions as a 3AG fuse.

**The 6.3 Volt bi-pin lamps are used for input selection indication and
for the stereo beacon. The dial backlights are fuse style, 8 Volt 200ma
types.

Of course a reliable vendor who sells them would be just as good.

The fuse lamps are readily available on eBay. You can also get them
from All Electronics in Van Nuys, California; the 8V lamps are $1
each or $8.50 for 10, while 6V and 12V lamps are slightly cheaper.

**Except that the OP wanted bi-pin lamps, which are not difficult to obtain.



--
Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au
 
"Black Iccy"
"Arfa Fuckwit Daily"
That aspect can be mitigated by
having a conventional diode in inverse parallel, but this will result in a
flicker at half the supply frequency that Phil can't see,


Surely, it will be at the _SAME_ frequency but exist as a light
source for only half the period (duty cycle). N'est-ce pas?

** AD is a colossal, bullshitting moron.

The repetition rate is 50Hz or 60Hz, same as the field rate of a regular (
interlaced) TV.

Got an sine wave generator on your bench with 2.5 V rms available ?

Connect a LED across the output and sweep the frequency across the range
from 20 to 100Hz or so and see what happens.


.... Phil
 
Phil Allison kom med denne ide:
"Black Iccy"
"Arfa Fuckwit Daily"

That aspect can be mitigated by
having a conventional diode in inverse parallel, but this will result in a
flicker at half the supply frequency that Phil can't see,


Surely, it will be at the _SAME_ frequency but exist as a light
source for only half the period (duty cycle). N'est-ce pas?


** AD is a colossal, bullshitting moron.

The repetition rate is 50Hz or 60Hz, same as the field rate of a regular (
interlaced) TV.
If you are talking about CRT-TV's, the phosphor(?) coating have
afterglow, to reduce flickering.

On the corner of the eye, the flickering is visible for some people on
some monitors.

The afterglow time varies depending on what the monitor is constructed
for. The old IBB green monitors had a very long afterglow to make the
image comfortable for wieving.

Got an sine wave generator on your bench with 2.5 V rms available ?

Connect a LED across the output and sweep the frequency across the range from
20 to 100Hz or so and see what happens.

When doing so, try different wavelengths, intensities and viewing
angles.

Flicker sensitivity varies between people.
When you are tired, you are more sensitive.

Perhaps your condition makes you less sensitive for flicker and proper
behaviour.

Leif

--
Husk křrelys bagpĺ, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.
 
"Leif Neland"

** AD is a colossal, bullshitting moron.

** Same as you - pig brain.



The repetition rate is 50Hz or 60Hz, same as the field rate of a regular
( interlaced) TV.

If you are talking about CRT-TV's,

** Yep.


Got an sine wave generator on your bench with 2.5 V rms available ?

Connect a LED across the output and sweep the frequency across the range
from 20 to 100Hz or so and see what happens.

When doing so,


** No **YOU** need to do the fucking test !!!!!!!

Cos I have done it many times already

You fucking, asinine, Kraut pile of shit.





..... Phil
 
On Fri, 6 Sep 2013 21:06:40 +1000 "Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote
in Message id: <b8tra3FbfplU1@mid.individual.net>:

"Leif Neland"


** AD is a colossal, bullshitting moron.

** Same as you - pig brain.



The repetition rate is 50Hz or 60Hz, same as the field rate of a regular
( interlaced) TV.

If you are talking about CRT-TV's,

** Yep.


Got an sine wave generator on your bench with 2.5 V rms available ?

Connect a LED across the output and sweep the frequency across the range
from 20 to 100Hz or so and see what happens.

When doing so,



** No **YOU** need to do the fucking test !!!!!!!

Cos I have done it many times already

You fucking, asinine, Kraut pile of shit.

Now, now little Phildo... Your mummy (she ain't a very good lay), won't
approve of language Like that. Especially from a mouth freshly filled with
Daddy's cum.
 
On Fri, 6 Sep 2013 21:27:45 +1000 "Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote
in Message id: <b8tshlFbogcU1@mid.individual.net>:

"Bill Palmer"


** Fuck off you damn troll

100,000 people die every day, why aren't you one of them?
 
On 09/05/2013 05:19 PM, Arfa Daily wrote:
"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:b8sgcmF3angU1@mid.individual.net...

"Arfa Dickhead Daily"


** For typical red bezels or indicator lights, it is simply not
visible.


It is to some of us. I find the PWM'd LED flicker of road works
cone-top beacons very annoying,

If you see "flicker" at 30 Hz you must hate television.
 
"dave"
If you see "flicker" at 30 Hz you must hate television.

** Huh ???

The refresh rate of CRT based TVs is at least 50Hz - because of
interlaced scanning.

There is still massive strobing if you wave an object in front of one, as
the dots / stripes go dark long before the next refresh cycle.

A LED ( any colour ) pulsed at 30Hz flickers obviously - this stops at
about 40 to 45 Hz.


.... Phil
 
On 9/6/2013 12:50 AM, jfeng@my-deja.com wrote:
On Wednesday, September 4, 2013 6:52:36 AM UTC-7, Tim Schwartz wrote:
Hello all,

Anyone know of a generic lamp that is an 8 volt, 40 mA bipin type?
These are used as source indicators in receivers like the Marantz 2270
and 2275. The 6.3 volt 7380 is readily available, but won't last long
running on 8 volts, and gets too hot as well.

Are you sure they are bi-pin lamps? I own a couple Marantz receivers of that vintage (2215 and 2275), and they used "fuse lamps" which have the same dimensions as a 3AG fuse.


Of course a reliable vendor who sells them would be just as good.

The fuse lamps are readily available on eBay. You can also get them from All Electronics in Van Nuys, California; the 8V lamps are $1 each or $8.50 for 10, while 6V and 12V lamps are slightly cheaper.
There are the source indicators (PHONO, FM, AM, TAPE, AUX, ....) NOT the
dial scale lamps, which are 'fuse type'.

--Tim
 
On Friday, September 6, 2013 6:29:13 AM UTC-7, Tim Schwartz wrote:
There are the source indicators (PHONO, FM, AM, TAPE, AUX, ....) NOT the
dial scale lamps, which are 'fuse type'.

--Tim

I guess I never had to replace any of those in my sets.....;-)

I hesitate to enter the fray, but if I thought 12V lamps were brigth enough, I would just use those. That might be easier to find. Operating at 8V, they would probably last a very long time (the GE rule of thumb from the middle of the last century was the twelfth power of the voltage).
 

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