wire conductivity

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 6, 2017 at 2:32:01 PM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote:

At 60 Hz in copper, the skin depth is about 8.5 mm, slightly thicker
than gauge 0.
You are talking about skin effect which is only starts to show above a
few kilohertz, otherwise the raw diameter of the wire is what carries
the current. Multi-strand wire (such as power cords, or speaker wire) is
convenient as it flexes, but it carries no more current than an
equivalent solid core wire at frequencies under around 10kHz. For
transmission towers where the outer diameter of the wire is much larger
that 8.5mm dia, then uses multi-stranded wire to get around it.

In the words of the prophet: Yabbut!! (Yes, but!)

Most discussions around wire material and types wind up, at least at some
point, around speaker wire discussions. Hence the reference to surface
area being an advantage. Speaker wires commonly carry in the multi-kHz frequencies.

For normal household use the difference will be negligible, and in some
specific conditions actually favor solid conductors. And to be a tiny bit
snarky: "There is a formula for that".

My specific choice for speaker wire is #12 19-strand THHN wire chucked
and twisted in a drill for easier handling. Quite manageable and extremely tough.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Some notes on speaker wire.

https://passlabs.com/press/speaker-cables-science-or-snake-oil

Greg
 
The page would not load for me, but I got this to say. I don't buy this snake oil shit. As long as the gauge is thick enough to allow good damping and not lose signal you are good to go.

As far as I can tell, the best speaker wire would be solid, like Rpmex that is in a casing which will force the two leads to run parallel.

Nelson Pass designs little three watt amplifiers n shit like that, there is no appreciable magnetic field. Audiophiles swear by them though. They also like single ended triode tube amps. This is where you take a 6L6 or 1 6550 per channel and rock the house with five watts. They replace perfectly good capacitors with super expensive ones which supposedly sound better.

He is obviously pandering to those who do not know electronics. Float your scope and the DUT, put the scope probe across any coupling cap in there and if all you see is DC it is good enough for the job. Same with filters, if all you see is DC it is good enough. I mean they do the cap job on single ended amps.

In some cases you might get a little more oomph out of a class AB amp upping the value of the main filters but you are not getting more power. All you get is more time at your dynamic headroom point before the voltages drop to the steady state power point. Same shit a few milliseconds later.

I have indeed heard the difference when speaker wires are of insufficient gauge, but it was an extreme demonstration.. fifty feet of zip cord that was maybe 28 gauge or something. Not much fatter than telephone wire.
 
In article <602f6567-bd60-4255-9fa1-88b73d2a4e98@googlegroups.com>,
jurb6006@gmail.com says...
The page would not load for me, but I got this to say. I don't buy this snake oil shit. As long as the gauge is thick enough to allow good damping and not lose signal you are good to go.

As far as I can tell, the best speaker wire would be solid, like Rpmex that is in a casing which will force the two leads to run parallel.

Nelson Pass designs little three watt amplifiers n shit like that, there is no appreciable magnetic field. Audiophiles swear by them though. They also like single ended triode tube amps. This is where you take a 6L6 or 1 6550 per channel and rock the house with five watts. They replace perfectly good capacitors with super expensive ones which supposedly sound better.

He is obviously pandering to those who do not know electronics. Float your scope and the DUT, put the scope probe across any coupling cap in there and if all you see is DC it is good enough for the job. Same with filters, if all you see is DC it is good enough. I mean they do the cap job on single ended amps.

In some cases you might get a little more oomph out of a class AB amp upping the value of the main filters but you are not getting more power. All you get is more time at your dynamic headroom point before the voltages drop to the steady state power point. Same shit a few milliseconds later.

I have indeed heard the difference when speaker wires are of insufficient gauge, but it was an extreme demonstration.. fifty feet of zip cord that was maybe 28 gauge or something. Not much fatter than telephone wire.

When they can sell about 6 feet of wire to go from the equipment to a
wall socket for over $ 100 , it proves they will buy most anything.

That wire must be some oxygen free, special insulated wire or some such
snake oil coated. There is no way the wire of the same gauge is going
to be noticed when there is probaly over 50 feet of cheep wire from the
socket to the breaker box of the house and hard telling how many miles
of even cheaper made wire to the power company.
 
Phil Allison wrote:

Ralph Mowery wrote:



I got some wire of 16 and 12 guage to use for 12 volt power wiring. It
may have been called speaker wire. A red and black pair.
The wire turned out to be aluminuim with a coating of copper.

I have seen some coax where the center conductor is aluminum with a
coating of copper, but this is for use at radio frequencies where the
skin effect is very much in effect.


** Copper clad aluminium wire ( aka CCA ) is commonly used for loudspeaker
voice coils - enamel coated of course.

The advantage is lower weight compared to pure copper, leading to more dBs
per watt.
Yes, that is definitely one place where it makes sense!
The wire in my Magneplanar speakers is made that way, although it isn't a
coil.

Jon
 
isw wrote:


ISTR that the problem was mostly that electricians couldn't be bothered
to learn the new techniques and so on that were mandatory to install the
stuff safely. It was only when it was installed just like Cu that it was
prone to overheating.
If the wrong wire terminal combination is installed, then your house WILL
burn down, guaranteed! If you use the right CO/ALR fittings EVERYWHERE,
then over time you will STILL develop poor connections. You can go around
and tighten all the terminals in your breaker box and outlets and switches
every ten years or so. But, it is STILL a risk, even with all the right
parts, as the wire just keeps creeping out from under the terminals. And,
of course, some people wired up their houses with those incredibly awful
poke the wire in the hole switches and outlets, which even with all copper
wire make poor connections after a few years.

Jon
 
On Tuesday, January 10, 2017 at 11:38:54 AM UTC-8, Jon Elson wrote:
> isw wrote:

[about aluminum house wiring]

ISTR that the problem was mostly that electricians couldn't be bothered
to learn the new techniques and so on that were mandatory to install the
stuff safely.

If the wrong wire terminal combination is installed, then your house WILL
burn down, guaranteed! If you use the right CO/ALR fittings EVERYWHERE,
then over time you will STILL develop poor connections.

I've seen poor connections with copper wire, too; many industrial plants
are wired with heavy aluminum (I've done some of it). I don't know about CO/ALR
specifically, but there ARE effective ways to use aluminum wiring.
 
In article <2a4f8197-96df-4bc9-8970-829f1f2ff50b@googlegroups.com>,
whit3rd@gmail.com says...
On Tuesday, January 10, 2017 at 11:38:54 AM UTC-8, Jon Elson wrote:
isw wrote:

[about aluminum house wiring]

ISTR that the problem was mostly that electricians couldn't be bothered
to learn the new techniques and so on that were mandatory to install the
stuff safely.

If the wrong wire terminal combination is installed, then your house WILL
burn down, guaranteed! If you use the right CO/ALR fittings EVERYWHERE,
then over time you will STILL develop poor connections.

I've seen poor connections with copper wire, too; many industrial plants
are wired with heavy aluminum (I've done some of it). I don't know about CO/ALR
specifically, but there ARE effective ways to use aluminum wiring.

I don't know about all large plants, but the one I worked at would go
around every year to all the motor control centers and run an scan with
an infered camera to check for hot spots.
 
Ralph Mowery wrote:
I have seen some coax where the center conductor is aluminum with a
coating of copper, but this is for use at radio frequencies where the
skin effect is very much in effect.

CATV coax (RG-59, RG-6, RG-11) uses a STEEL center conductor for
strength, not aluminum. The figure eight version for drops hs an added
stainless steel messenger wire. .500", .750" and larger trunk cables use
aluminum to reduce the weight, but the .750" and larger trunk lines have
to be able to handle 30A on the center conductor. .500" is only used to
feed line extenders or line taps, and needs to be able to carry 15A.
CATV line equipment is typically powered by 60 VAC modified sine wave
from a large pole or pad mounted CVT, but some early 12 channel hardware
was powered by 30VAC modified sine wave power supplies. This was mostly
obsolete by the '70s.



--
Never piss off an Engineer!

They don't get mad.

They don't get even.

They go for over unity! ;-)
 
On Fri, 6 Jan 2017 18:18:32 -0800 (PST), avagadro7@gmail.com wrote:

On Friday, January 6, 2017 at 9:01:07 PM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:
avag...@gmail.com wrote:


using http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

is there a functional difference, other factors ie metal purity equal,

between 8-12-14> gauge wire having 10 strands and 25 strands ?



** Yes, stranded wire is far more flexible.


does covering each copper strand with aluminum coating increase
conductivity ?


** Aluminium wire is often coated in copper, not the other way around.

It improves conductivity and most importantly makes it possible to solder the ends.

Sometimes it is passed off as being pure copper to the unwary.



.... Phil


accessed the specs via 4 lines of ID codes.....copper inside, aluminum coating outside, 25 strands Ga 12 has a mil spec rating

difficult scraping the silver off with a new utility blade

More likely to be coated with silver, particularly if mil spec.

RL
 
On Sat, 7 Jan 2017 14:43:12 -0800 (PST), avagadro7@gmail.com wrote:

no, in the 1930's rubber insulation decayed against copper so cladding was produced. Aluminum cladding ( I read this last night ) did not adhere to copper but the Westinghouse patent covering copper with silver produced a functioning AL outer layer .....for lower temps on the surface or greater resistance to degradation from outside heat sources...I'm not sure which or both.

Thus, with a fine multiple strand wire there is more conductivity, less degradation more flex with a smaller space occupation. Maybe more effective bundling ?

that's what the material suggests. I read the answer to my question of not flowing thru less resistance toward the center of a copper wire with a thicker AL cladding as the outer areas of conductivity are geometrically larger supplying more free electrons in this Cu AL apparently topping more conductive copper below.

now tell me why that wire is more resistive ? as per common knowledge.

AlSi coatings are used for environmental protection. They will not
improve surface conductivity directly, but can preserve conductivity
of the coated material and assist to reduce corrosion.

I've never seen it offered for copper. Perhaps you can offer a
reference or link to the material you're refering to?

Aluminum is more resistive by volume than copper (less resistive by
weight).....so is unlikely to be used to reduce skin resistance of a
copper conductor directly, in the short term.

RL
 
On 1/10/2017 10:09 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
That wire must be some oxygen free, special insulated wire or some such
snake oil coated. There is no way the wire of the same gauge is going
to be noticed when there is probaly over 50 feet of cheep wire from the
socket to the breaker box of the house and hard telling how many miles
of even cheaper made wire to the power company.

For the definitive answer from an electrical engineer, see the answer by
Bill Shymanski
https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en#!topic/alt.engineering.electrical/eWXk4BjP-rM
 
On 1/7/2017 10:24 PM, isw wrote:
In article <N5ydneYpyOkclO3FnZ2dnUU7-dvNnZ2d@giganews.com>,

The only aluminum wire is used as power lead-ins to houses, as it is much
cheaper than copper. They did use aluminum wire INSIDE houses in the US
around 1966-1968, and it burned a lot of houses down, due to the cold flow
of aluminum weakening the contact force.

ISTR that the problem was mostly that electricians couldn't be bothered
to learn the new techniques and so on that were mandatory to install the
stuff safely. It was only when it was installed just like Cu that it was
prone to overheating.

The problem is only for 15 and 20 amp branch circuits. Larger wire is
used often without problems.

Around 1965 the price of copper went through the roof and aluminum
started to be used on 15 and 20A circuits. Failed connections and fires
resulted, and in 1971 UL pulled the listing on that aluminum wire and
the aluminum rating for devices like switches and receptacles. New
standards soon followed. The new aluminum wire was harder, and devices
had a CO/ALR (Revised) rating.

The CPSC had extensive testing done on aluminum connections. That
testing found that the aluminum oxide surface insulating layer caused
much of the problem - the actual metal-metal contact could be quite
small. Installations done "properly" could still fail. The probability
of a failure was just higher for aluminum than copper. Even though
there is a new alloy, most of the wire actually installed is the "old
technology" stuff. "Backstab" device connections were never listed for
use with aluminum.

If someone is working with this 15 & 20A wire there is a good paper on
connections at:
http://www.kinginnovation.com/pdfs/ReducingFire070706.pdf
It is written by the engineer that supervised the testing for the CPSC.
Use of antioxide pastes is generally recommended.

The best connectors are
http://www.kinginnovation.com/products/electrical-products/alumiconn/
They have a screw connection that likely breaks through surface oxides.
(Connections for large wires also deform the wire.)
 
AND THE WIRE IS...

Consolidated

14(41)UL 1007/1569 105C CSA TR64 30C FT1 BLUE


for example, other spools state differently but same batch MO
 
On Tuesday, January 10, 2017 at 11:38:54 AM UTC-8, Jon Elson wrote:
> isw wrote:

[about aluminum house wiring]

ISTR that the problem was mostly that electricians couldn't be bothered
to learn the new techniques and so on that were mandatory to install the
stuff safely.

If the wrong wire terminal combination is installed, then your house WILL
burn down, guaranteed! If you use the right CO/ALR fittings EVERYWHERE,
then over time you will STILL develop poor connections.

Covering the aluminum leads with anti-corrosive material (noalox) before attaching to copper or brass terminals helps.
 
In article <92111d01-b7f6-4fd9-abc9-2dbf7bf37469@googlegroups.com>,
avagadro7@gmail.com says...
AND THE WIRE IS...

Consolidated

14(41)UL 1007/1569 105C CSA TR64 30C FT1 BLUE


for example, other spools state differently but same batch MO

PLL lock just out of reach ?

jamie
 
On Monday, February 6, 2017 at 6:51:49 PM UTC-5, M Philbrook wrote:
In article <92111d01-b7f6-4fd9-abc9-2dbf7bf37469@googlegroups.com>,
avagadro7@gmail.com says...

AND THE WIRE IS...

Consolidated

14(41)UL 1007/1569 105C CSA TR64 30C FT1 BLUE


for example, other spools state differently but same batch MO

PLL lock just out of reach ?

jamie

? Phase loop lock ? no bolt n chain .....then figure. is this ur answer ?

a poster asked what wire ....took a while to get to it.

I'm trying to supply 12VDC over a few feet without loss. The new wire was unknown but not yielding what I wanted at the end, a halogen bulb. I'm increasing Gauge.
 

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