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Carlos E.R.
Guest
On 2023-02-15 16:50, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Even if it only burns his house, it causes work for the emergency
workers that they don\'t need.
--
Cheers, Carlos.
Even if it only burns his house, it causes work for the emergency
workers that they don\'t need.
--
Cheers, Carlos.
M
Max Demian
Guest
On 18/02/2023 00:29, Commander Kinsey wrote:
No, transformers for AC mains, dropper resistors for DC, HT/LT batteries
for portables and vibrator power packs for car radios. (Or valves with
12V HT and a power transistor for hybrids.)
The low power FM transmitters came later. Recently I bought Thomson
wireless headphones that use UHF and reach out into the car park: much
better than Bluetooth and with no latency.
They used to be very stuffy about home transmitters in the past: If you
learnt Morse code you could become a radio ham. I think you could have a
radio controlled toy running at 27 MHz, though might have needed a
licence. People imported 27 MHz walkie-talkies but they were illegal to
use. I think they eventually made CB radios legal.
--
Max Demian
No, transformers for AC mains, dropper resistors for DC, HT/LT batteries
for portables and vibrator power packs for car radios. (Or valves with
12V HT and a power transistor for hybrids.)
The low power FM transmitters came later. Recently I bought Thomson
wireless headphones that use UHF and reach out into the car park: much
better than Bluetooth and with no latency.
They used to be very stuffy about home transmitters in the past: If you
learnt Morse code you could become a radio ham. I think you could have a
radio controlled toy running at 27 MHz, though might have needed a
licence. People imported 27 MHz walkie-talkies but they were illegal to
use. I think they eventually made CB radios legal.
--
Max Demian
D
Don Y
Guest
On 2/15/2023 10:33 AM, ke...@kjwdesigns.com wrote:
But the number is largely arbitrary.
Let\'s pick the average energy consumed, per capita, during the
Holy Roman Empire -- estimated at 500W. Surely, 500W back then
should be just as acceptable now?
Using an average -- without justifying the actual value -- is
just silly. It could be too high *or* too low (the folks
in Bangladesh exist on 300W)
After all, the average human has one breast and one testicle!
But the number is largely arbitrary.
Let\'s pick the average energy consumed, per capita, during the
Holy Roman Empire -- estimated at 500W. Surely, 500W back then
should be just as acceptable now?
Using an average -- without justifying the actual value -- is
just silly. It could be too high *or* too low (the folks
in Bangladesh exist on 300W)
After all, the average human has one breast and one testicle!
T
The Natural Philosopher
Guest
On 18/02/2023 12:37, Max Demian wrote:
many tons of pull they could generate before the wheels slipped.
That\'s why they had a lot of driving wheels - at least four, generally 6
and up to 8.
At a given slope even the loco alone cant get up it which is where rack
and pinion railways come in.
--
In todays liberal progressive conflict-free education system, everyone
gets full Marx.
Steam locos were not rated in horsepower, but \'tractive effort\' . How
many tons of pull they could generate before the wheels slipped.
That\'s why they had a lot of driving wheels - at least four, generally 6
and up to 8.
At a given slope even the loco alone cant get up it which is where rack
and pinion railways come in.
--
In todays liberal progressive conflict-free education system, everyone
gets full Marx.
C
Carlos E.R.
Guest
On 2023-02-15 16:41, micky wrote:
Ah, of course, you need more amps. The biggest I have is rated 6A. I
don\'t trust those cables and sockets for more than that.
Oh.
Ok, it was a google link to the photo of the next link:
The rationale is that if you put one strand of wire, it will fuse before
the 10 strands of the whole cable
6.25A * 127 â 800W
127 was a standard voltage here some time...
No idea.
Here all houses have circuit breakers.
Makes sense.
--
Cheers, Carlos.
Ah, of course, you need more amps. The biggest I have is rated 6A. I
don\'t trust those cables and sockets for more than that.
Oh.
Ok, it was a google link to the photo of the next link:
The rationale is that if you put one strand of wire, it will fuse before
the 10 strands of the whole cable
6.25A * 127 â 800W
127 was a standard voltage here some time...
No idea.
Here all houses have circuit breakers.
Makes sense.
--
Cheers, Carlos.
T
The Natural Philosopher
Guest
On 18/02/2023 12:43, Max Demian wrote:
Mains was always AC post WWII and probably post the advent of consumer
tube radios and IIRC was always 240VAC post WWII.
\"The Electricity (Supply) Act 1919 merged the 600-odd local generating
companies into area boards, who in turn were centralised into the
Central Electricity Board by the Electricity Supply Act 1925. That is
when the voltage was standardised at 240V, and the National Grid created.
(But DC persisted, in some areas as late as the mid 60s. Refrigerators,
Vacuum Cleaners, Sewing Machines, Electric Drills, Radios and TVs were
available with universal input. They would all work on AC or DC 240V
(one or two DC areas were only 180V, like Dundee or Exeter))\"
--
The theory of Communism may be summed up in one sentence: Abolish all
private property.
Karl Marx
On 18/02/2023 00:29, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Mon, 13 Feb 2023 13:58:47 -0000, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 13 Feb 2023 13:33:36 +0000, Max Demian
max_demian@bigfoot.com> wrote:
On 13/02/2023 03:59, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 13 Feb 2023 00:08:57 +0100, \"Carlos E.R.\"
robin_listas@es.invalid> wrote:
Radios of that era had a setting named \"phone\". And a socket. You
connected the output of the \"electric gramophone\" pickup to the phone
Every mains valve radio had a \"Gram\" or \"PU\" socket with switching,
usually combined with the waveband switch.
Every AC tube radio.... Â
Mains was always AC wasn\'t it?
If course it wasn\'t (in the UK). Mains was AC or DC, and 120V (or so) to
250V (or so).
Mains was always AC post WWII and probably post the advent of consumer
tube radios and IIRC was always 240VAC post WWII.
\"The Electricity (Supply) Act 1919 merged the 600-odd local generating
companies into area boards, who in turn were centralised into the
Central Electricity Board by the Electricity Supply Act 1925. That is
when the voltage was standardised at 240V, and the National Grid created.
(But DC persisted, in some areas as late as the mid 60s. Refrigerators,
Vacuum Cleaners, Sewing Machines, Electric Drills, Radios and TVs were
available with universal input. They would all work on AC or DC 240V
(one or two DC areas were only 180V, like Dundee or Exeter))\"
--
The theory of Communism may be summed up in one sentence: Abolish all
private property.
Karl Marx
C
Carlos E.R.
Guest
On 2023-02-15 18:38, Sam E wrote:
No, with red.
--
Cheers, Carlos.
On 2/15/23 09:39, Carlos E. R. wrote:
On 2023-02-15 16:27, NY wrote:
On 15/02/2023 14:56, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Sun, 12 Feb 2023 20:38:43 -0000, Mark Lloyd <not.email@all.invalid> wrote:
On 2/11/23 04:56, Ian Jackson wrote:
...
What about water taps? Most turn anticlockwise to unscrew the tap so
as to increase the pressure, but a few go the opposite way. And there
seems to be no consensus as to whether the cold or the hot tap should
be on the left: doesn\'t matter as long its separate taps with
coloured inserts, but some modern mixer taps, which rotate to vary
temperature and rock back and forth to vary water flow, have no
indication as to which way to rotate to get hot water - and sometimes
you have to choose a rotation arbitrarily and wait: if the water
remains cold and never runs warm after a while, try the other way
In Spain there are conventions on that. Hot is left. But German taps
(Grohe brand) assume hot is right. They all turn in the same
direction, although modern ones do not have any screw thread.
So when we installed a Grohe on the kitchen, we reversed the tubes.
Hot is left, but red colour.
For the Spanish one, is the hot marked with a C?
No, with red.
--
Cheers, Carlos.
T
The Natural Philosopher
Guest
On 15/02/2023 19:57, John Larkin wrote:
Do you think we should go back to that, too?
And make Gujerati an official language?
--
Itâs easier to fool people than to convince them that they have been fooled.
Mark Twain
Each town also had a separate clock on local time.
Do you think we should go back to that, too?
And make Gujerati an official language?
--
Itâs easier to fool people than to convince them that they have been fooled.
Mark Twain
D
Don Y
Guest
On 2/18/2023 2:46 AM, Martin Brown wrote:
When one discards a refrigerator/freezer, here, you remove the doors to
keep overly-curious kids from becoming trapped inside (think: hide-n-seek)
Yikes! 4 cu ft is more like a (larger) \"dormitory room\" appliance.
Our freezer (*in* the refrigerator) is bigger than that!
We have a separate \"chest freezer\" (door is the *lid*) in the
garage that\'s about 16 cu ft (our previous one was ~20 cu ft).
We freeze about 100 qts of orange juice from each harvest. As
that is consumed, the released space gets re-appropriated for
other things (spaghetti sauce, baked goods, meats, etc.)
People tend to buy in larger quantities -- esp if they have
extra freezer capacity. I\'m unsure if the savings on the
products justify the increased energy required to preserve them
but it is considerably more convenient to be able to \"visit the
freezer\" than to have to \"visit the store\"!
At least 20% of US homes have two (or more) \"refrigeration appliances\".
A neighbor has a full-size refrigerator w/freezer in his kitchen;
another in his garage; and an under-counter unit in his *other*
garage/man-cave (for beer, of course).
I know folks with refrigerators *without* freezer compartments that
are larger than our 23 cu ft (ours is limited to 23 cu ft as it is
only as deep as the countertops; others protrude farther into the room
for additional capacity). AND, a separate *freezer* (without a
refrigerator compartment) to go alongside! But, this is usually
just a sign of extravagance as most homes wouldn\'t need that sort
of capacity.
A trend in the past few years has been to support multiple
evaporators in the refrigerator/freezer. This allows the user
to determine the temperature range for different compartments
independently of the others (many refrigerators have a single
evaporator in the freezer compartment and \"gate\" airflow into the
refrigerator to \"chill\" that compartment).
And, newer refrigerators are WiFi enabled, some with cameras to
let you view their contents (remotely or on an LCD display
mounted to the front of a door), etc. It\'s really quite
silly -- though *somewhat* practical (if you are the type of
shopper who doesn\'t PLAN their shopping trip and needs to
question what they have, on hand, while out at a store!)
[Ours has a little control panel INSIDE the refrigerator compartment
with a graphic (monochrome) display that lets you control which
features are enabled, temperature setpoints, etc. But, the more
*useful* feature -- a heated butter compartment -- has been
elided (wasteful of energy?)]
No. The \"feed\" from the breaker (for that branch circuit) can fork
as often as seems appropriate for the routing of that circuit. The
electrician will often choose to run the line in a \"connect-the-dots\"
fashion as the architect will likely have indicated outlet placements
with that in mind on the plans. But, if a more effective use of wire
would require multiple forks, then so be it.
[The mains distribution to homes -- below grade -- is in the form of
an interrupted loop. Power feeds to the first (pad mounted) transformer.
Then, from there, to the next one (on a separate cable). Etc.
The last transformer in the series has a separate feed cable to
the mains -- at a different geographical location -- but it is
not connected. In the event that one of the \"daisy chains\" fails
(isolating the homes that are downstream from that failure), the
utility company will connect this other feed to restore power to
the downstream homes \"from the other end\", after completely
disconnecting the faulted cable segment.]
Keep in mind that most lighting circuits are only ~1800W (and are typically
derated to 1440W). This is also the norm for most (\"non-kitchen\") outlet
circuits.
Our code requires two circuits for (kitchen) countertop use rated at 20A
(~2400W again, typ. derated to 80%) as that\'s where most of the power
hungry appliances are connected (electric frying pan/wok, toaster,
microwave oven, mixer, blender, etc.). I arranged for ours to be
\"interleaved\" so you could determine which circuit fed each outlet
just by casual examination (odds vs. evens). It\'s usually prudent to
feed the two branch circuits from opposite \"legs\" of the mains.
[Technically, one should use receptacles that are tailored to individual
20A loads (a 20A plug has the neutral blade perpendicular -- instead of
parallel -- to the hot blade).]
I\'ve often encountered 4 conductor cable (instead of 3 -- hot, neutral, earth)
used to feed a set of physically contiguous loads (like countertop circuits).
It runs from one outlet to the next, allowing the installer to determine
which \"line\" connection to use for each load.
[Encountered one such site where an outlet had been wired to Hot1, Hot2,
Neutral & Earth (instead of Hot*, Neutral and Earth)... made for some
interesting \"connections\" :< ]
I\'m not sure that one can connect two conductors under a single
screw (e.g., at the circuit breaker).
The heavier use circuits (clothes dryer, water heater?, oven, central
air conditioning compressor, etc.) are rated at higher loads (e.g., 12KW?
for the air conditioner\'s compressor, 7KW? for the electric dryer, etc.)
and must ONLY feed those single appliances. Most operate from two \"line\"
connections (i.e., 240VAC)
It is good practice (may even be part of the Code, now) to power
your refrigerator from a single 1800W (120VAC) circuit as well as your
furnace (120VAC blower) on yet another.
And, of course, loads near water require ground fault protection
(bathrooms, garage, basement?, outdoor -- unless overhead, etc.).
I think there is now a requirement for arc-fault protectors
(on bedroom circuits?). And, all are now \"tamper resistant\"
(to keep kids from sticking things into the openings)
[But, the Code tolerates using different *devices* to get that
functionality. E.g., one can buy a GFCI receptacle that can
be wired in series with the other receptacles that need GFCI
protection. In that case, the GFCI receptacle provides it
to its \"slaves\". This, of course, requires the other
receptacles to have been wired \"downstream\" from the chosen
one. This encourages retrofitting that capability to a
home -- a homeowner can make such a change themselves, in
many jurisdictions, without necessitating the involvement of
a licensed electrician (sadly, many homeowners are more frugal
than technically savvy!)
Alternatively, you can install a GFCI circuit breaker and
have all loads on the branch circuit protected -- but this
is a more expensive option (though one I prefer as it makes for
cleaner looking receptacles -- no annoying \"test\" and \"reset\"
buttons!)]
When one discards a refrigerator/freezer, here, you remove the doors to
keep overly-curious kids from becoming trapped inside (think: hide-n-seek)
Yikes! 4 cu ft is more like a (larger) \"dormitory room\" appliance.
Our freezer (*in* the refrigerator) is bigger than that!
We have a separate \"chest freezer\" (door is the *lid*) in the
garage that\'s about 16 cu ft (our previous one was ~20 cu ft).
We freeze about 100 qts of orange juice from each harvest. As
that is consumed, the released space gets re-appropriated for
other things (spaghetti sauce, baked goods, meats, etc.)
People tend to buy in larger quantities -- esp if they have
extra freezer capacity. I\'m unsure if the savings on the
products justify the increased energy required to preserve them
but it is considerably more convenient to be able to \"visit the
freezer\" than to have to \"visit the store\"!
At least 20% of US homes have two (or more) \"refrigeration appliances\".
A neighbor has a full-size refrigerator w/freezer in his kitchen;
another in his garage; and an under-counter unit in his *other*
garage/man-cave (for beer, of course).
I know folks with refrigerators *without* freezer compartments that
are larger than our 23 cu ft (ours is limited to 23 cu ft as it is
only as deep as the countertops; others protrude farther into the room
for additional capacity). AND, a separate *freezer* (without a
refrigerator compartment) to go alongside! But, this is usually
just a sign of extravagance as most homes wouldn\'t need that sort
of capacity.
A trend in the past few years has been to support multiple
evaporators in the refrigerator/freezer. This allows the user
to determine the temperature range for different compartments
independently of the others (many refrigerators have a single
evaporator in the freezer compartment and \"gate\" airflow into the
refrigerator to \"chill\" that compartment).
And, newer refrigerators are WiFi enabled, some with cameras to
let you view their contents (remotely or on an LCD display
mounted to the front of a door), etc. It\'s really quite
silly -- though *somewhat* practical (if you are the type of
shopper who doesn\'t PLAN their shopping trip and needs to
question what they have, on hand, while out at a store!)
[Ours has a little control panel INSIDE the refrigerator compartment
with a graphic (monochrome) display that lets you control which
features are enabled, temperature setpoints, etc. But, the more
*useful* feature -- a heated butter compartment -- has been
elided (wasteful of energy?)]
No. The \"feed\" from the breaker (for that branch circuit) can fork
as often as seems appropriate for the routing of that circuit. The
electrician will often choose to run the line in a \"connect-the-dots\"
fashion as the architect will likely have indicated outlet placements
with that in mind on the plans. But, if a more effective use of wire
would require multiple forks, then so be it.
[The mains distribution to homes -- below grade -- is in the form of
an interrupted loop. Power feeds to the first (pad mounted) transformer.
Then, from there, to the next one (on a separate cable). Etc.
The last transformer in the series has a separate feed cable to
the mains -- at a different geographical location -- but it is
not connected. In the event that one of the \"daisy chains\" fails
(isolating the homes that are downstream from that failure), the
utility company will connect this other feed to restore power to
the downstream homes \"from the other end\", after completely
disconnecting the faulted cable segment.]
Keep in mind that most lighting circuits are only ~1800W (and are typically
derated to 1440W). This is also the norm for most (\"non-kitchen\") outlet
circuits.
Our code requires two circuits for (kitchen) countertop use rated at 20A
(~2400W again, typ. derated to 80%) as that\'s where most of the power
hungry appliances are connected (electric frying pan/wok, toaster,
microwave oven, mixer, blender, etc.). I arranged for ours to be
\"interleaved\" so you could determine which circuit fed each outlet
just by casual examination (odds vs. evens). It\'s usually prudent to
feed the two branch circuits from opposite \"legs\" of the mains.
[Technically, one should use receptacles that are tailored to individual
20A loads (a 20A plug has the neutral blade perpendicular -- instead of
parallel -- to the hot blade).]
I\'ve often encountered 4 conductor cable (instead of 3 -- hot, neutral, earth)
used to feed a set of physically contiguous loads (like countertop circuits).
It runs from one outlet to the next, allowing the installer to determine
which \"line\" connection to use for each load.
[Encountered one such site where an outlet had been wired to Hot1, Hot2,
Neutral & Earth (instead of Hot*, Neutral and Earth)... made for some
interesting \"connections\" :< ]
I\'m not sure that one can connect two conductors under a single
screw (e.g., at the circuit breaker).
The heavier use circuits (clothes dryer, water heater?, oven, central
air conditioning compressor, etc.) are rated at higher loads (e.g., 12KW?
for the air conditioner\'s compressor, 7KW? for the electric dryer, etc.)
and must ONLY feed those single appliances. Most operate from two \"line\"
connections (i.e., 240VAC)
It is good practice (may even be part of the Code, now) to power
your refrigerator from a single 1800W (120VAC) circuit as well as your
furnace (120VAC blower) on yet another.
And, of course, loads near water require ground fault protection
(bathrooms, garage, basement?, outdoor -- unless overhead, etc.).
I think there is now a requirement for arc-fault protectors
(on bedroom circuits?). And, all are now \"tamper resistant\"
(to keep kids from sticking things into the openings)
[But, the Code tolerates using different *devices* to get that
functionality. E.g., one can buy a GFCI receptacle that can
be wired in series with the other receptacles that need GFCI
protection. In that case, the GFCI receptacle provides it
to its \"slaves\". This, of course, requires the other
receptacles to have been wired \"downstream\" from the chosen
one. This encourages retrofitting that capability to a
home -- a homeowner can make such a change themselves, in
many jurisdictions, without necessitating the involvement of
a licensed electrician (sadly, many homeowners are more frugal
than technically savvy!)
Alternatively, you can install a GFCI circuit breaker and
have all loads on the branch circuit protected -- but this
is a more expensive option (though one I prefer as it makes for
cleaner looking receptacles -- no annoying \"test\" and \"reset\"
buttons!)]
D
Don Y
Guest
On 2/18/2023 6:35 AM, Don Y wrote:
Code requires outlets every ~12 ft (IIRC). But, countertop outlets
are spaced at *4* ft intervals. Kitchen appliances often have very
short power cords (to encourage being unplugged when moved -- not
in use -- as well as eliminate service loops)
Code requires outlets every ~12 ft (IIRC). But, countertop outlets
are spaced at *4* ft intervals. Kitchen appliances often have very
short power cords (to encourage being unplugged when moved -- not
in use -- as well as eliminate service loops)
S
SteveW
Guest
On 18/02/2023 12:58, Max Demian wrote:
There were at least two classes of licence - you needed to learn morse
for the higher licence that permitted more options and made for long
range communications.
27MHz AM radio control had been around for a long time and I don\'t think
a licence was required. 35MHz FM came in later, again no licence required.
Imported CBs were 27MHz AM and caused problems with ambulance service
communications IIRC. When CBs were legalised, it was on 27MHz FM, with
the AM sets remaining illegal and the FM sets being limited to 4 Watts.
Only 40 channels were legal, although some imported sets could access 80.
There were at least two classes of licence - you needed to learn morse
for the higher licence that permitted more options and made for long
range communications.
27MHz AM radio control had been around for a long time and I don\'t think
a licence was required. 35MHz FM came in later, again no licence required.
Imported CBs were 27MHz AM and caused problems with ambulance service
communications IIRC. When CBs were legalised, it was on 27MHz FM, with
the AM sets remaining illegal and the FM sets being limited to 4 Watts.
Only 40 channels were legal, although some imported sets could access 80.
P
Phil Hobbs
Guest
On 2023-02-08 19:35, Phil Hobbs wrote:
We just got the first batch of ten rail splitter boards in from JLCPCB.
<https://electrooptical.net/www/sed/wallwartsplitter.pdf>
They work great--if you short either side of the wart to ground, the
FETs open up and latch that way until you cycle the power. It\'s also
polarity-protected, of course.
These ones get clamped to a metal baseplate with a thermal gap pad to
cool the TCA0372.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
We just got the first batch of ten rail splitter boards in from JLCPCB.
<https://electrooptical.net/www/sed/wallwartsplitter.pdf>
They work great--if you short either side of the wart to ground, the
FETs open up and latch that way until you cycle the power. It\'s also
polarity-protected, of course.
These ones get clamped to a metal baseplate with a thermal gap pad to
cool the TCA0372.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
C
Commander Kinsey
Guest
On Sun, 12 Feb 2023 21:29:14 -0000, Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net> wrote:
That\'s because of your stupid 120 volt obsession.
That\'s because of your stupid 120 volt obsession.
M
Max Demian
Guest
On 18/02/2023 13:14, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
And then the EU stole ten of our good, English volts!
Have we got them back yet?
That rather contradicts your first para.
--
Max Demian
And then the EU stole ten of our good, English volts!
Have we got them back yet?
That rather contradicts your first para.
--
Max Demian
L
Lasse Langwadt Christensen
Guest
tirsdag den 21. februar 2023 kl. 00.42.41 UTC+1 skrev Phil Hobbs:
who not use both sections of the opamp?
who not use both sections of the opamp?
C
Commander Kinsey
Guest
On Sun, 12 Feb 2023 23:14:48 -0000, <hubops@ccanoemail.com> wrote:
Probably against the USA\'s precious little code to turn it round. You\'ll be put in jail.
Probably against the USA\'s precious little code to turn it round. You\'ll be put in jail.
M
Max Demian
Guest
On 18/02/2023 00:21, Commander Kinsey wrote:
You were usually recommended to use each needle only once. Gramophones
often had a little caddy to put the used needle into.
Shellac is very hard. Before I could get proper needles for an electric
record deck I inherited I use panel pins without any trouble.
--
Max Demian
You were usually recommended to use each needle only once. Gramophones
often had a little caddy to put the used needle into.
Shellac is very hard. Before I could get proper needles for an electric
record deck I inherited I use panel pins without any trouble.
--
Max Demian
P
Phil Hobbs
Guest
On 2023-02-20 19:00, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
Because their DC offsets will in general be different. That means
they\'ll fight, unless we put resistors in series with the outputs.
The silicon hardly contributes to the overall thermal resistance.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
Because their DC offsets will in general be different. That means
they\'ll fight, unless we put resistors in series with the outputs.
The silicon hardly contributes to the overall thermal resistance.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
C
Commander Kinsey
Guest
On Mon, 13 Feb 2023 01:31:06 -0000, Scott Lurndal <scott@slp53.sl.home> wrote:
Cut it out with the double negatives. You could have said \"that\'s common\". Don\'t make us cancel things out to work out what you mean.
Cut it out with the double negatives. You could have said \"that\'s common\". Don\'t make us cancel things out to work out what you mean.