where can I get a circuit board for a project appearing in R

On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 16:22:00 -0000 (UTC), Don Kuenz <g@crcomp.net>
wrote:

BillyBob <billybob@noemail.net> wrote:
Thanks much, guys. Upon carefully reading the original article, the
author mentions either purchasing the circuit board or using perf board.
I think I'm going to do the latter (perf board) as I still have
leftover pieces unused from many, many years ago.

FR4 universal prototype board, shown in use here:

http://crcomp.net/electronic/mixeramp/5.png

available here:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=fr4+universal+prototype

is an excellent substitute for the through hole PCBs shown in old hobby
magazines. All things considered, universal board offers the quickest,
cheapest, easiest way to build small to medium sized, one of a kind,
through hole, light power, simple circuit boards.
In other words, the type of circuit typically found in a hobby
magazine. There's SMD carrier boards that mate with universal to
accommodate newer component packages. It's also pretty easy to solder
larger SMD resistors and capacitors to universal.

Thank you, 73,

Surface-mount adapters, like the Bellin things, can be stuck to a
piece of copperclad with sticky foam tape. The copperclad is a great
ground plane.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9av93ul8148zdjm/Z356_SN2.JPG?raw=1

One advantage is that all the connections are visible on the top side,
and you can change things without flipping the board over, like if
it's on your bench with a zillion cables connected.




--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

lunatic fringe electronics

 

[Don Kuenz]

mc@uga.edu wrote:

I used to write project articles for that and other magazines. Most of mine
didn't have a PC board design at all. Sometimes a company such as FAR Circuits
would make an arrangement with the magazine to produce and sell a PC board.

Nowadays, if building just one unit, I would use perfboard (probably pad-per-hole)
and simply lay it out as I go. That's the quickest way. The only reason for
wanting a printed circuit board would be if the layout was critical or it was
unusually complicated. In that case, scan the image, clean it up, and do a
toner transfer method using a laser printer, then etch.

Agreed. IIRC, Larkin uses a dental drill on copperclad to carve at least
some critical layouts. As a last resort, prior to etching, you may be
able to mount a carved copperclad critical circuit chunk to a larger
universal motherboard; Manhattan style if you glue it in place or
quasi-Manhattan with standoffs.

Thank you, 73,

--
Don Kuenz KB7RPU
There was a young lady named Bright Whose speed was far faster than light;
She set out one day In a relative way And returned on the previous night.

 

[TTman]

On 13/10/2019 01:30, BillyBob wrote:

On 10/12/19 8:17 PM, Michael Terrell wrote:
On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 7:08:09 PM UTC-4, BillyBob wrote:
I'm trying to find a source that would carry circuit boards for projects
that appeared in Radio Electronics Magazine.  Thank you in advance.

Most of their projects had a layout to make your own boards. Unless
you have a Delorean and a good supply of Flux Capacitors, that is the
only way that you could buy one.

The few articles that listed a suppler wanted to sell a kit of parts
with the board. Most of those kits were sold for a year or two before
they were NLA.


It would cost me more to make a board right now, since I don't have any
boards or the chemicals needed, than it's worth.  Just wondered if
anyone existed out there with perhaps extra boards.  If not, who out
there could take a jpeg (digital cut out from the article) and make it
into a board at reasonable cost?
Can you post a pic up on dropbox ???

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

 

I used to write project articles for that and other magazines. Most of mine didn't have a PC board design at all. Sometimes a company such as FAR Circuits would make an arrangement with the magazine to produce and sell a PC board.

Nowadays, if building just one unit, I would use perfboard (probably pad-per-hole) and simply lay it out as I go. That's the quickest way. The only reason for wanting a printed circuit board would be if the layout was critical or it was unusually complicated. In that case, scan the image, clean it up, and do a toner transfer method using a laser printer, then etch.

 

On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 18:23:29 -0000 (UTC), Don Kuenz <g@crcomp.net>
wrote:

mc@uga.edu wrote:
I used to write project articles for that and other magazines. Most of mine
didn't have a PC board design at all. Sometimes a company such as FAR Circuits
would make an arrangement with the magazine to produce and sell a PC board.

Nowadays, if building just one unit, I would use perfboard (probably pad-per-hole)
and simply lay it out as I go. That's the quickest way. The only reason for
wanting a printed circuit board would be if the layout was critical or it was
unusually complicated. In that case, scan the image, clean it up, and do a
toner transfer method using a laser printer, then etch.

Agreed. IIRC, Larkin uses a dental drill on copperclad to carve at least
some critical layouts. As a last resort, prior to etching, you may be
able to mount a carved copperclad critical circuit chunk to a larger
universal motherboard; Manhattan style if you glue it in place or
quasi-Manhattan with standoffs.

Thank you, 73,

Etching is slow and messy. It takes weeks to get ferric chloride
stains off fingers.

If you enjoy the process, go for it. If you want to do electronics,
there are easier ways.

Simple circuits can be done on copperclad, maybe with adapters. More
complex stuff deserves a PC board with vias and planes, which is fast
and cheap nowadays, but requires a layout. A home-etched board needs a
layout too, but resolution and adhesion are bad, no silk, no vias, no
mask, no planes, no plating. Yuk.

If you order quick-turn boards, may as well get a few.

This is pulsed high current, hundred amps or two, Manhattan.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5nlhqy7c8mt2xv3/LDP2.JPG?raw=1





--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

lunatic fringe electronics

 

[amdx]

On 10/13/2019 3:22 AM, Martin Brown wrote:

On 13/10/2019 02:02, Michael Terrell wrote:
On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 8:52:16 PM UTC-4, Rick C wrote:
On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 8:30:32 PM UTC-4, BillyBob wrote:
On 10/12/19 8:17 PM, Michael Terrell wrote:
On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 7:08:09 PM UTC-4, BillyBob
wrote:
I'm trying to find a source that would carry circuit boards
for projects that appeared in Radio Electronics Magazine.
Thank you in advance.

Most of their projects had a layout to make your own boards.
Unless you have a Delorean and a good supply of Flux
Capacitors, that is the only way that you could buy one.

The few articles that listed a suppler wanted to sell a kit of
parts with the board. Most of those kits were sold for a year
or two before they were NLA.


It would cost me more to make a board right now, since I don't
have any boards or the chemicals needed, than it's worth.  Just
wondered if anyone existed out there with perhaps extra boards.
If not, who out there could take a jpeg (digital cut out from the
article) and make it into a board at reasonable cost?

You may be in luck... if you can find a Gerber file of the board.
An image in a magazine isn't good enough.  There is an guy who
makes board for a fairly low cost per square inch.  You do have to
buy three of them, but still pretty much better than anyone else
around.

https://oshpark.com/

2 Layer Prototype 3 PCBs $5 per square inch Ships in under 12 days

Oh yeah, you'll need drill file if you want plated through holes.
If you are happy drilling your own, no issue.


It was a hobby magazine that ceased publication in 2003. The articles
were intended to use hand bade boards, like I did in the late '60s. A
blank piece of un-etched single sided board and a resist pen did the
layout. I doubt tat any of those boards ever had Gerbers.

Maybe Don Lancaster could shed some light on this, since he wrote
articles for Hobby Electronics magazines back then.

The classic way to do it as a hobbyist back in the 70's was to trace the
board layout by hand and use a centre pop to transfer all the holes onto
the copper side. Then join the lands up with a suitable thick permanent
marker pen. They sold proper resist pens but trial and error most dense
ones worked OK if they didn't leave thin streaks.

The old copper etch chemistries were simple and still available for
hobbyists being warmed strong ferric chloride solution (reuasble) or the
more dodgy but cleaner cold HCl/H2O2 mix (which you must never store).

The first time I used HCl/H2O2 instead if ferric chloride, I never
went back to ferric chloride. It really worked well and fast.
For my HCL I used muratic acid for swimming pools.


> Beginners tend to break the fine drills putting the holes in.

Ya, a dremel drill press helps a whole lot.

> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milescraft-Rotary-Tool-Drill-Press-Stand-for-Woodworking-and-Jewelry-Making-1097/100507168?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories-71700000056728358-58700005290277020-92700046897694916&msclkid=0e5007394e271254ae805a9a38975304&gclid=CLiwqZL4meUCFcEjgQodMy4O7w&gclsrc=ds

OH, try this, > https://tinyurl.com/yyndwda9

Mikek

 

Which sort of brings us back to the original poster's implicit question:

Is there a board making service that will work from a good graphic of the published design rather than Gerber files? Or a way to turn a graphical image into a Gerber file?

 

On Sunday, 13 October 2019 20:38:13 UTC+1, jla...@highlandsniptechnology.com wrote:

Etching is slow and messy. It takes weeks to get ferric chloride
stains off fingers.

If you enjoy the process, go for it. If you want to do electronics,
there are easier ways.

Simple circuits can be done on copperclad, maybe with adapters. More
complex stuff deserves a PC board with vias and planes, which is fast
and cheap nowadays, but requires a layout. A home-etched board needs a
layout too, but resolution and adhesion are bad, no silk, no vias, no
mask, no planes, no plating. Yuk.

If you order quick-turn boards, may as well get a few.

This is pulsed high current, hundred amps or two, Manhattan.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5nlhqy7c8mt2xv3/LDP2.JPG?raw=1

Some metals are easy to plate at home.


NT

 

[BillyBob]

On 10/13/19 2:18 PM, TTman wrote:

Can you post a pic up on dropbox ???

No, but I can on imgur:

https://i.imgur.com/3sydgWn.jpg

 

On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 14:00:44 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:

On Sunday, 13 October 2019 20:38:13 UTC+1, jla...@highlandsniptechnology.com wrote:

Etching is slow and messy. It takes weeks to get ferric chloride
stains off fingers.

If you enjoy the process, go for it. If you want to do electronics,
there are easier ways.

Simple circuits can be done on copperclad, maybe with adapters. More
complex stuff deserves a PC board with vias and planes, which is fast
and cheap nowadays, but requires a layout. A home-etched board needs a
layout too, but resolution and adhesion are bad, no silk, no vias, no
mask, no planes, no plating. Yuk.

If you order quick-turn boards, may as well get a few.

This is pulsed high current, hundred amps or two, Manhattan.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5nlhqy7c8mt2xv3/LDP2.JPG?raw=1

Some metals are easy to plate at home.


NT

PCB fabrication is not electronic design.

There is free PCB software around, and outfits that will make you
several boards for $25 in 5 days.



--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

lunatic fringe electronics

 

[Lasse Langwadt Christense]

mandag den 14. oktober 2019 kl. 00.27.27 UTC+2 skrev BillyBob:

On 10/13/19 2:18 PM, TTman wrote:

Can you post a pic up on dropbox ???

No, but I can on imgur:

https://i.imgur.com/3sydgWn.jpg

you have a picture of the assembled pcb or a component placement
to get the scale right?

it won't take many minutes to do in kicad

 

[BillyBob]

On 10/13/19 6:50 PM, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:

mandag den 14. oktober 2019 kl. 00.27.27 UTC+2 skrev BillyBob:
On 10/13/19 2:18 PM, TTman wrote:

Can you post a pic up on dropbox ???

No, but I can on imgur:

https://i.imgur.com/3sydgWn.jpg

you have a picture of the assembled pcb or a component placement
to get the scale right?

it won't take many minutes to do in kicad

Sorry, I made an error. I think I posted the wrong side/ perspective.
Here it is with scaling:

https://i.imgur.com/p0Zwywp.jpg

 

[Lasse Langwadt Christense]

mandag den 14. oktober 2019 kl. 00.59.26 UTC+2 skrev BillyBob:

On 10/13/19 6:50 PM, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
mandag den 14. oktober 2019 kl. 00.27.27 UTC+2 skrev BillyBob:
On 10/13/19 2:18 PM, TTman wrote:

Can you post a pic up on dropbox ???

No, but I can on imgur:

https://i.imgur.com/3sydgWn.jpg

you have a picture of the assembled pcb or a component placement
to get the scale right?

it won't take many minutes to do in kicad


Sorry, I made an error. I think I posted the wrong side/ perspective.
Here it is with scaling:

https://i.imgur.com/p0Zwywp.jpg

the other one was better, but a component placement would help

 

[BillyBob]

On 10/13/19 7:06 PM, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:

mandag den 14. oktober 2019 kl. 00.59.26 UTC+2 skrev BillyBob:
On 10/13/19 6:50 PM, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
mandag den 14. oktober 2019 kl. 00.27.27 UTC+2 skrev BillyBob:
On 10/13/19 2:18 PM, TTman wrote:

Can you post a pic up on dropbox ???

No, but I can on imgur:

https://i.imgur.com/3sydgWn.jpg

you have a picture of the assembled pcb or a component placement
to get the scale right?

it won't take many minutes to do in kicad


Sorry, I made an error. I think I posted the wrong side/ perspective.
Here it is with scaling:

https://i.imgur.com/p0Zwywp.jpg

the other one was better, but a component placement would help

Ok, here's all I have from the article:

https://i.imgur.com/xDbL5rv.jpg

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2019-10-13, BillyBob <billybob@noemail.net> wrote:

On 10/12/19 8:17 PM, Michael Terrell wrote:
On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 7:08:09 PM UTC-4, BillyBob wrote:
I'm trying to find a source that would carry circuit boards for projects
that appeared in Radio Electronics Magazine. Thank you in advance.

Most of their projects had a layout to make your own boards. Unless you have a Delorean and a good supply of Flux Capacitors, that is the only way that you could buy one.

The few articles that listed a suppler wanted to sell a kit of parts with the board. Most of those kits were sold for a year or two before they were NLA.


It would cost me more to make a board right now, since I don't have any
boards or the chemicals needed, than it's worth. Just wondered if
anyone existed out there with perhaps extra boards. If not, who out
there could take a jpeg (digital cut out from the article) and make it
into a board at reasonable cost?

You could scan the image and convert it to a gerber and send it to
SEEED or one of the other low-quantity board makers.

--
When I tried casting out nines I made a hash of it.

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2019-10-13, mc@uga.edu <mc@uga.edu> wrote:

Which sort of brings us back to the original poster's implicit question:

Is there a board making service that will work from a good graphic of the published design rather than Gerber files? Or a way to turn a graphical image into a Gerber file?

Easyeda.com can import images into the copper layer of its PCB
designer, other software probably can too, but I have tried with it.

--
When I tried casting out nines I made a hash of it.

 

[Rick C]

On Sunday, October 13, 2019 at 3:14:52 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:

On 10/13/2019 3:22 AM, Martin Brown wrote:
On 13/10/2019 02:02, Michael Terrell wrote:
On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 8:52:16 PM UTC-4, Rick C wrote:
On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 8:30:32 PM UTC-4, BillyBob wrote:
On 10/12/19 8:17 PM, Michael Terrell wrote:
On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 7:08:09 PM UTC-4, BillyBob
wrote:
I'm trying to find a source that would carry circuit boards
for projects that appeared in Radio Electronics Magazine.
Thank you in advance.

Most of their projects had a layout to make your own boards.
Unless you have a Delorean and a good supply of Flux
Capacitors, that is the only way that you could buy one.

The few articles that listed a suppler wanted to sell a kit of
parts with the board. Most of those kits were sold for a year
or two before they were NLA.


It would cost me more to make a board right now, since I don't
have any boards or the chemicals needed, than it's worth.  Just
wondered if anyone existed out there with perhaps extra boards.
If not, who out there could take a jpeg (digital cut out from the
article) and make it into a board at reasonable cost?

You may be in luck... if you can find a Gerber file of the board.
An image in a magazine isn't good enough.  There is an guy who
makes board for a fairly low cost per square inch.  You do have to
buy three of them, but still pretty much better than anyone else
around.

https://oshpark.com/

2 Layer Prototype 3 PCBs $5 per square inch Ships in under 12 days

Oh yeah, you'll need drill file if you want plated through holes.
If you are happy drilling your own, no issue.


It was a hobby magazine that ceased publication in 2003. The articles
were intended to use hand bade boards, like I did in the late '60s. A
blank piece of un-etched single sided board and a resist pen did the
layout. I doubt tat any of those boards ever had Gerbers.

Maybe Don Lancaster could shed some light on this, since he wrote
articles for Hobby Electronics magazines back then.

The classic way to do it as a hobbyist back in the 70's was to trace the
board layout by hand and use a centre pop to transfer all the holes onto
the copper side. Then join the lands up with a suitable thick permanent
marker pen. They sold proper resist pens but trial and error most dense
ones worked OK if they didn't leave thin streaks.

The old copper etch chemistries were simple and still available for
hobbyists being warmed strong ferric chloride solution (reuasble) or the
more dodgy but cleaner cold HCl/H2O2 mix (which you must never store).


The first time I used HCl/H2O2 instead if ferric chloride, I never
went back to ferric chloride. It really worked well and fast.
For my HCL I used muratic acid for swimming pools.

What percentage is that? I use HCl on my toilet to clean rust stains and that's 20%. It's available in smaller bottles, about 20 oz I think.

Beginners tend to break the fine drills putting the holes in.

Ya, a dremel drill press helps a whole lot.

I bought one of those and it's a piece of crap. It's all plastic and bends when it shouldn't. Totally worthless. I ended up buying a full size floor drill press and have never regretted it, $200 from Costco many years ago.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milescraft-Rotary-Tool-Drill-Press-Stand-for-Woodworking-and-Jewelry-Making-1097/100507168?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories-71700000056728358-58700005290277020-92700046897694916&msclkid=0e5007394e271254ae805a9a38975304&gclid=CLiwqZL4meUCFcEjgQodMy4O7w&gclsrc=ds

OH, try this, > https://tinyurl.com/yyndwda9

That looks much better than the Dremel stand. Cheaper too!

I may need to pick up one!

--

Rick C.

-+ Get 2,000 miles of free Supercharging
-+ Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209

 

[amdx]

On 10/14/2019 3:54 AM, Rick C wrote:

On Sunday, October 13, 2019 at 3:14:52 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:
On 10/13/2019 3:22 AM, Martin Brown wrote:
On 13/10/2019 02:02, Michael Terrell wrote:
On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 8:52:16 PM UTC-4, Rick C wrote:
On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 8:30:32 PM UTC-4, BillyBob wrote:
On 10/12/19 8:17 PM, Michael Terrell wrote:
On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 7:08:09 PM UTC-4, BillyBob
wrote:
I'm trying to find a source that would carry circuit boards
for projects that appeared in Radio Electronics Magazine.
Thank you in advance.

Most of their projects had a layout to make your own boards.
Unless you have a Delorean and a good supply of Flux
Capacitors, that is the only way that you could buy one.

The few articles that listed a suppler wanted to sell a kit of
parts with the board. Most of those kits were sold for a year
or two before they were NLA.


It would cost me more to make a board right now, since I don't
have any boards or the chemicals needed, than it's worth.  Just
wondered if anyone existed out there with perhaps extra boards.
If not, who out there could take a jpeg (digital cut out from the
article) and make it into a board at reasonable cost?

You may be in luck... if you can find a Gerber file of the board.
An image in a magazine isn't good enough.  There is an guy who
makes board for a fairly low cost per square inch.  You do have to
buy three of them, but still pretty much better than anyone else
around.

https://oshpark.com/

2 Layer Prototype 3 PCBs $5 per square inch Ships in under 12 days

Oh yeah, you'll need drill file if you want plated through holes.
If you are happy drilling your own, no issue.


It was a hobby magazine that ceased publication in 2003. The articles
were intended to use hand bade boards, like I did in the late '60s. A
blank piece of un-etched single sided board and a resist pen did the
layout. I doubt tat any of those boards ever had Gerbers.

Maybe Don Lancaster could shed some light on this, since he wrote
articles for Hobby Electronics magazines back then.

The classic way to do it as a hobbyist back in the 70's was to trace the
board layout by hand and use a centre pop to transfer all the holes onto
the copper side. Then join the lands up with a suitable thick permanent
marker pen. They sold proper resist pens but trial and error most dense
ones worked OK if they didn't leave thin streaks.

The old copper etch chemistries were simple and still available for
hobbyists being warmed strong ferric chloride solution (reuasble) or the
more dodgy but cleaner cold HCl/H2O2 mix (which you must never store).


The first time I used HCl/H2O2 instead if ferric chloride, I never
went back to ferric chloride. It really worked well and fast.
For my HCL I used muratic acid for swimming pools.

What percentage is that? I use HCl on my toilet to clean rust stains and that's 20%. It's available in smaller bottles, about 20 oz I think.

I just looked, the bottle says 31.45% Hydrochloric acid.
I don't remember the ratio of H2O2 I used. I found the ratio on
someone's webpage.

Beginners tend to break the fine drills putting the holes in.

Ya, a dremel drill press helps a whole lot.

I bought one of those and it's a piece of crap. It's all plastic and bends when it shouldn't. Totally worthless. I ended up buying a full size floor drill press and have never regretted it, $200 from Costco many years ago.

Maybe they have cheapened it, the one I have is a least 30 years old.
After reading your next line I see I didn't post the dremel drill press
you were thinking of. But it holds a dremel drill.
The one I use is at least 30 years old, so probably not built the
same anymore.
Mikek

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milescraft-Rotary-Tool-Drill-Press-Stand-for-Woodworking-and-Jewelry-Making-1097/100507168?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories-71700000056728358-58700005290277020-92700046897694916&msclkid=0e5007394e271254ae805a9a38975304&gclid=CLiwqZL4meUCFcEjgQodMy4O7w&gclsrc=ds

OH, try this, > https://tinyurl.com/yyndwda9

That looks much better than the Dremel stand. Cheaper too!

I may need to pick up one!

 

[TTman]

Sorry, I made an error.  I think I posted the wrong side/ perspective.
Here it is with scaling:

   https://i.imgur.com/p0Zwywp.jpg

the other one was better, but a component placement would help


Ok, here's all I have from the article:

https://i.imgur.com/xDbL5rv.jpg

That would be trivial to assemble it on veroboard.... A few track cuts,
a few wire links... barely worth the effort to lay out a PCB.
However... Seed studio ( China) will give you 10 off for around $15 all
in, inc post.BUT you have to give them gerbers. Their PCB size is 100mm
x 100mm so will easily acomodate your design. Make top and bottom layers
the same so you get the benefit of the strength of PTH holes for the
components.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

 

[Rick C]

On Sunday, October 13, 2019 at 5:03:47 PM UTC-4, m...@uga.edu wrote:

Which sort of brings us back to the original poster's implicit question:

Is there a board making service that will work from a good graphic of the published design rather than Gerber files? Or a way to turn a graphical image into a Gerber file?

I don't know of any board houses who will use an image. You may find some who will work with a DXF file (I think that is the suffix for Autocad files). Otherwise you can just layout your own. It's actually very, very easy if you use an easy to use layout package like FreePCB. Normally designers start with a schematic in some other layout package and import the netlist to the layout program. But with FreePCB you don't need that. You can manually add components and then add nets to connect the pins the way you want. This builds the netlist internally and voila you have a layout!!!
Click the menu to make the Gerber files and there isn't much more to it than that.

--

Rick C.

-+ Get 2,000 miles of free Supercharging
-+ Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209