Waffle iron light.

[D Yuniskis]

William Sommerwerck wrote:

You need the "hot knife" from HHGTTG! (Now *that* was cool!)

Hot knife? In which episode/book?

I'm not sure it was in the books. It may have been in the "newer"
movie (Tricia shows arthur a knife that toasts bread as it
cuts it). Yeah, come to think of it, the image I have of the
actress is *not* the "little blond" (?) from the original
TV series so it must be the movie.

Does anyone know how to remove smoke stains from glass? I've
tried any number of strong organic solvents (including MEK), and
nothing -- not even citrus solvent -- seems to dissolve it very well.

Try vinegar, water and copious amounts of elbow grease?

Don't have any vinegar, but I might try a bit of Sno Bol -- it's mostly HCl.

At least you won't have to worry about etching the glass (unless
you try HF!)

 

[D Yuniskis]

Andrew Erickson wrote:

In article <hhl8ko$hje$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

While we're on the issue of thermostats... Most (if not all) modern toaster
ovens have dropped the conventional double-thermostat system for making
toast. You now set a mechanical timer of questionable utility. (There are
two toast symbols at the extremes, and no marks between.) I carelessly
burned some bread the other morning; had the sprinkler system gone off, I'd
still be drying out the condo.

Does anyone know how to remove smoke stains from glass? I've tried any
number of strong organic solvents (including MEK), and nothing -- not even
citrus solvent -- seems to dissolve it very well.

Three options I'd try:

1. Oven cleaner -- especially if this is mainly the inside of the
toaster oven door.

2. Powdered cleanser (or baking soda might do) takes a bit of elbow
grease, but can get most stains off of most glass or ceramic things.
(These may cloud the glass a tiny bit by its grinding action, so I
wouldn't suggest it for house windows without checking beforehand, but
it should be fine for appliance door windows which aren't expected to be
crystal clear.)

I'd be careful, there. Many are abrasive. IIRC, something like
Bon Ami may work (I'd still opt for the vinegar if you can stomach
that awful smell! *Here*, I'd do it outdoors but temperatures
may be prohibitive where you are?)

3. Scrubbing bubbles or similar bathroom cleaner works wonders on
tobacco smoke stains; it might work here, too. It's also nice because
it's generally compatible with most plastics, where other solvents and
such are often not usable.

There is a solvent called Awesome (sold in "dollar stores")
that *might* work. It takes the patina off plastic so be wary...

 

[Meat Plow]

On Fri, 1 Jan 2010 07:23:25 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>wrote:

1. Oven cleaner -- especially if this is mainly the inside of the
toaster oven door.

2. Powdered cleanser (or baking soda might do) takes a bit of
elbow grease, but can get most stains off of most glass or ceramic
things. (These may cloud the glass a tiny bit by its grinding action,
so I wouldn't suggest it for house windows without checking beforehand,
but it should be fine for appliance door windows which aren't expected
to be crystal clear.)

3. Scrubbing Bubbles or similar bathroom cleaner works wonders on
tobacco smoke stains; it might work here, too. It's also nice because
it's generally compatible with most plastics, where other solvents and
such are often not usable.


Good suggestions. I'd been thinking of Soft Scrub, because the calcium
carbonate (chalk) in it doesn't scratch. I'll try #1 and #3 if it doesn't
work.

For tobacco tar Clorox Cleanup works wonders. Also products that
contain an 'oxygenator' for lack of a better word work well if it's
just the tar you're cleaning.,

 

[David]

"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:3di4vr.276.17.3@news.alt.net...

On Fri, 1 Jan 2010 07:23:25 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>wrote:

1. Oven cleaner -- especially if this is mainly the
inside of the
toaster oven door.

2. Powdered cleanser (or baking soda might do) takes a
bit of
elbow grease, but can get most stains off of most glass
or ceramic
things. (These may cloud the glass a tiny bit by its
grinding action,
so I wouldn't suggest it for house windows without
checking beforehand,
but it should be fine for appliance door windows which
aren't expected
to be crystal clear.)

3. Scrubbing Bubbles or similar bathroom cleaner works
wonders on
tobacco smoke stains; it might work here, too. It's also
nice because
it's generally compatible with most plastics, where
other solvents and
such are often not usable.


Good suggestions. I'd been thinking of Soft Scrub, because
the calcium
carbonate (chalk) in it doesn't scratch. I'll try #1 and
#3 if it doesn't
work.


For tobacco tar Clorox Cleanup works wonders. Also
products that
contain an 'oxygenator' for lack of a better word work
well if it's
just the tar you're cleaning.,

One thing that has not been mentioned (except as an
ingredient in oven cleaner): Potassium Hydroxide e.g. liquid
Draino. I use it all of the time to clean the smoke off of
glass fireplace doors.

David

 

[Meat Plow]

On Fri, 1 Jan 2010 12:51:17 -0600, "David"
<someone@somewhere.com>wrote:

"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:3di4vr.276.17.3@news.alt.net...
On Fri, 1 Jan 2010 07:23:25 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>wrote:

1. Oven cleaner -- especially if this is mainly the
inside of the
toaster oven door.

2. Powdered cleanser (or baking soda might do) takes a
bit of
elbow grease, but can get most stains off of most glass
or ceramic
things. (These may cloud the glass a tiny bit by its
grinding action,
so I wouldn't suggest it for house windows without
checking beforehand,
but it should be fine for appliance door windows which
aren't expected
to be crystal clear.)

3. Scrubbing Bubbles or similar bathroom cleaner works
wonders on
tobacco smoke stains; it might work here, too. It's also
nice because
it's generally compatible with most plastics, where
other solvents and
such are often not usable.


Good suggestions. I'd been thinking of Soft Scrub, because
the calcium
carbonate (chalk) in it doesn't scratch. I'll try #1 and
#3 if it doesn't
work.


For tobacco tar Clorox Cleanup works wonders. Also
products that
contain an 'oxygenator' for lack of a better word work
well if it's
just the tar you're cleaning.,

One thing that has not been mentioned (except as an
ingredient in oven cleaner): Potassium Hydroxide e.g. liquid
Draino. I use it all of the time to clean the smoke off of
glass fireplace doors.

David

Yeah that works but is very toxic and would destroy any surface
besides glass.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

One thing that has not been mentioned (except as an
ingredient in oven cleaner): Potassium Hydroxide e.g.
liquid Draino.

Sodium, not potassium.

I use it all of the time to clean the smoke off glass
fireplace doors.

Yeah that works but is very toxic and would destroy any surface
besides glass.

It's not that toxic, and there are many plastics lye doesn't attack -- such
as ABS, which many bathtubs are made of. I spray Mr Muscle in the tub to get
rid of the soap scum. Works fine.

Mr Muscle was the winner in the "remove the smoke from the toaster oven
door" contest. I put a very small amount on a paper and rubbed firmly. You
can't do it in one sitting, as the lye starts to attack your fingers! But it
works.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

William Sommerwerck wrote:

No one has addressed at length (I've only covered it briefly)
the basic issue -- the counter-intuitiveness of the way
waffles are cooked while the grill is /returning/ to its "correct"
temperature. Most forms of cooking are normally done at
constant temperature.

But, is that *intentional* or just a consequence of the way the
device was hysterically made?

I don't know!!! You tell me!!! Why would anyone get upset over making
waffles??? There's really no need for it!!! You don't want to go running
around the kitchen like a chicken with its head cut off!!! (Unless you're
making chicken and waffles!!!) It would be too, too dangerous!!!

Waffles are one of the few quick-cooking foods that cannot be seen while
they're cooking, so some quasi-automated cooking system seems necessary. If
the grill has a sufficiently low thermal mass to cool quickly when the
batter falls on it, and the heating elements deliver the right amount of
heat to restore the temperature and cook the waffles by the time the
thermostat kicks out again, you have, in effect, a timing mechanism that
adds nothing to the cost of the unit.

While we're on the issue of thermostats... Most (if not all) modern toaster
ovens have dropped the conventional double-thermostat system for making
toast. You now set a mechanical timer of questionable utility. (There are
two toast symbols at the extremes, and no marks between.) I carelessly
burned some bread the other morning; had the sprinkler system gone off, I'd
still be drying out the condo.

Does anyone know how to remove smoke stains from glass? I've tried any
number of strong organic solvents (including MEK), and nothing -- not even
citrus solvent -- seems to dissolve it very well.

Automotive polishing compound and water. I've had to use it to clean
glass in fire restorations.


--
Greed is the root of all eBay.

 

[Meat Plow]

On Fri, 1 Jan 2010 11:23:07 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>wrote:

One thing that has not been mentioned (except as an
ingredient in oven cleaner): Potassium Hydroxide e.g.
liquid Draino.

Sodium, not potassium.

I use it all of the time to clean the smoke off glass
fireplace doors.

Yeah that works but is very toxic and would destroy any surface
besides glass.

It's not that toxic, and there are many plastics lye doesn't attack -- such
as ABS, which many bathtubs are made of. I spray Mr Muscle in the tub to get
rid of the soap scum. Works fine.

Mr Muscle was the winner in the "remove the smoke from the toaster oven
door" contest. I put a very small amount on a paper and rubbed firmly. You
can't do it in one sitting, as the lye starts to attack your fingers! But it
works.

I use oven cleaner with lye on my stoneware (outside surfaces),
porcelain stovetop and minimally inside my self-cleaning oven.

 

[bz]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in news:hhlp3i$2cl$1
@news.eternal-september.org:

You
can't do it in one sitting, as the lye starts to attack your fingers

use gloves! (and safety glasses! because lye and other bases will diffuse
into tissues and can continue to cause damage, even if you rinse the exposed
area with water[and you SHOULD flush exposed tissue with PLENTY of water. )



--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

You can't do it in one sitting, as the lye starts to attack your fingers

Use gloves! (and safety glasses! because lye and other bases will
diffuse into tissues and can continue to cause damage, even if you
rinse the exposed area with water (and you SHOULD flush exposed
tissue with PLENTY of water).

Oh my God! My fingers are starting to fall off! ARRRGGGHHH!

In college chem lab I spilled a lot of NaOH on my right hand. The skin
became all rubbery, even after I poured a lot of hydrochloric acid on it.
There was no permanent damage.

 

[D Yuniskis]

William Sommerwerck wrote:

You can't do it in one sitting, as the lye starts to attack your fingers

Use gloves! (and safety glasses! because lye and other bases will
diffuse into tissues and can continue to cause damage, even if you
rinse the exposed area with water (and you SHOULD flush exposed
tissue with PLENTY of water).

Oh my God! My fingers are starting to fall off! ARRRGGGHHH!

In college chem lab I spilled a lot of NaOH on my right hand. The skin
became all rubbery, even after I poured a lot of hydrochloric acid on it.
There was no permanent damage.

And the HOOK is nice and shiney!

 

[bz]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in news:hi3dj1$1cp$1
@news.eternal-september.org:

You can't do it in one sitting, as the lye starts to attack your fingers

Use gloves! (and safety glasses! because lye and other bases will
diffuse into tissues and can continue to cause damage, even if you
rinse the exposed area with water (and you SHOULD flush exposed
tissue with PLENTY of water).

Oh my God! My fingers are starting to fall off! ARRRGGGHHH!

In college chem lab I spilled a lot of NaOH on my right hand. The skin
became all rubbery, even after I poured a lot of hydrochloric acid on it.
There was no permanent damage.

Non the less, the advice to use gloves and safety glasses is good advice.


--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.