Voltage regulator?

A

ATS Elect

Guest
I am working on a project that requires a supply 12 volts DC @ 500 ma. I
have been using a wall wart to power it but now would like to find a
minature soulotion that I can integrate onto the board for my next board
run. Is there an minature, low cost component that will rectify and drop the
voltage from 110 v AC to 12 v DC? I already know that I can just use a small
wall wart and get a bigger case but I need something small, low cost &
perferably TH mounted.

Maybe there is a better solution you can share with me. Any would be
appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
 
"ATS Elect" <atss@mchsi.com> wrote in message
news:DERvc.14841$sI.5733@attbi_s52...
I am working on a project that requires a supply 12 volts DC @ 500 ma. I
have been using a wall wart to power it but now would like to find a
minature soulotion that I can integrate onto the board for my next board
run. Is there an minature, low cost component that will rectify and drop
the
voltage from 110 v AC to 12 v DC? I already know that I can just use a
small
wall wart and get a bigger case but I need something small, low cost &
perferably TH mounted.

Maybe there is a better solution you can share with me. Any would be
appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Aren't you going to need all kinds of regulatory approvals if you bring the
Click to expand...
110VAC into the case? Don't undreratand the part about a wall wart requiring
a bigger case.
If you really want it, I think Astrodyne makes what you want.
Tam
 
For a commercial product, the advantage of a wall wart is that it passes
fire safety certifications (UL, etc.) and since it delivers low voltage at
limited current, your product doesn't have to undergo the same tests. At
least that what I've been given to understand.

You can certainly buy ready-made power-supply modules to fit inside your own
device; www.jameco.com has many of them (many of which are surplus
bargains).

As for building your own, see Radio Shack's book, "Building Power Supplies."


"ATS Elect" <atss@mchsi.com> wrote in message
news:DERvc.14841$sI.5733@attbi_s52...
I am working on a project that requires a supply 12 volts DC @ 500 ma. I
have been using a wall wart to power it but now would like to find a
minature soulotion that I can integrate onto the board for my next board
run. Is there an minature, low cost component that will rectify and drop
the
voltage from 110 v AC to 12 v DC? I already know that I can just use a
small
wall wart and get a bigger case but I need something small, low cost &
perferably TH mounted.

Maybe there is a better solution you can share with me. Any would be
appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
 
ATS Elect wrote:
I am working on a project that requires a supply 12 volts DC @ 500
ma. I have been using a wall wart to power it but now would like to
find a minature soulotion that I can integrate onto the board for my
next board run. Is there an minature, low cost component that will
rectify and drop the voltage from 110 v AC to 12 v DC? I already know
that I can just use a small wall wart and get a bigger case but I
need something small, low cost & perferably TH mounted.

Maybe there is a better solution you can share with me. Any would be
appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Do you live in some banana republic, otherwise you should have by now
realized that the US mains voltage is 120V. If this is already an indication
of your knowledge of security measures required, you should better leave it
the way it is, mains on a circuit board is always nasty and you do not want
to end up in jail, do you?
--
ciao Ban
Bordighera, Italy
 
Do you live in some banana republic, otherwise you should have by now
realized that the US mains voltage is 120V. If this is already an
indication
of your knowledge of security measures required, you should better leave
it
the way it is, mains on a circuit board is always nasty and you do not
want
to end up in jail, do you?
--
ciao Ban
Bordighera, Italy
Click to expand...
For your information, the voltage in North America oscillates between 110V
and 120V. If you measure voltage in my house you can have 111V and if you
go by the other side of the street you will get 115V and so on. This is the
reality, I don't think it can be a "Security" issue since once redressed,
the voltage can be properly regulated. You're a little quick to end in
conclusions, you don't know at all how this guy works and you're sending him
to jail only based on an information that you didn't verify... for me this
is a nonsense.

Mortel­.
 
"Ban" <bansuri@web.de> wrote:
ATS Elect wrote:
rectify and drop the voltage from 110 v AC to 12 v DC?

[should have] realized that the US mains voltage is 120V
Click to expand...
Actually, mains voltage can vary from 95 to 135 volts, plus or minus,
so everyone knows what we're talking about whether we call it 110,115,
120, or whatever. No need to be quite as helpful as you were.

--
William Smith
ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc. www.compusmiths.com
 
On Fri, 4 Jun 2004 08:37:21 -0400, the renowned "Mortel"
<No_Spam@spam.com> wrote:

Do you live in some banana republic, otherwise you should have by now
realized that the US mains voltage is 120V. If this is already an
indication
of your knowledge of security measures required, you should better leave
it
the way it is, mains on a circuit board is always nasty and you do not
want
to end up in jail, do you?
--
ciao Ban
Bordighera, Italy

For your information, the voltage in North America oscillates between 110V
and 120V.
Click to expand...
The average mains voltage here is actually zero, but mine tends to
oscillate between about +174V and -174V.

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
 
ATS Elect wrote:
I am working on a project that requires a supply 12 volts DC @ 500 ma. I
have been using a wall wart to power it but now would like to find a
minature soulotion that I can integrate onto the board for my next board
run. Is there an minature, low cost component that will rectify and drop the
voltage from 110 v AC to 12 v DC? I already know that I can just use a small
wall wart and get a bigger case but I need something small, low cost &
perferably TH mounted.

Maybe there is a better solution you can share with me. Any would be
appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Have at it - hee-hee:

http://www.powerint.com/tiny2product.htm
 
"Mortel" <No_Spam@spam.com> wrote in message
news:42_vc.115713$tb4.4629552@news20.bellglobal.com...
For your information, the voltage in North America oscillates between 110V
and 120V. If you measure voltage in my house you can have 111V and if you
go by the other side of the street you will get 115V and so on. This is
the
reality, I don't think it can be a "Security" issue since once redressed,
the voltage can be properly regulated. You're a little quick to end in
conclusions, you don't know at all how this guy works and you're sending
him
to jail only based on an information that you didn't verify... for me this
is a nonsense.

Mortel­.

If you look at a US light bulb or appliance, it says 120V. Years ago, the
Click to expand...
standard was 117. If I see less than 120, it is a brownout. Usually runs
123 -126.

Tam
 
<William P.N. Smith> wrote in message
news:q7s0c05duf4c23oun5iatghpr7t0fff9hf@4ax.com...
"Ban" <bansuri@web.de> wrote:
ATS Elect wrote:
rectify and drop the voltage from 110 v AC to 12 v DC?

[should have] realized that the US mains voltage is 120V

Actually, mains voltage can vary from 95 to 135 volts, plus or minus,
so everyone knows what we're talking about whether we call it 110,115,
120, or whatever. No need to be quite as helpful as you were.
Click to expand...
To be ultra-pedantic, the nominal voltage has been 110, 115, 117, and 120 at
different times during the 20th century. I don't know what it is now, but
the voltage at my house is about 128, and we buy 130-volt light bulbs.

Traditional-minded people still refer to it as "110."

I'm told that in Japan, it's nominally 100 volts.
 
On Fri, 4 Jun 2004 10:12:28 -0400, the renowned "Michael A. Covington"
<look@www.covingtoninnovations.com.for.address> wrote:

William P.N. Smith> wrote in message
news:q7s0c05duf4c23oun5iatghpr7t0fff9hf@4ax.com...
"Ban" <bansuri@web.de> wrote:
ATS Elect wrote:
rectify and drop the voltage from 110 v AC to 12 v DC?

[should have] realized that the US mains voltage is 120V

Actually, mains voltage can vary from 95 to 135 volts, plus or minus,
so everyone knows what we're talking about whether we call it 110,115,
120, or whatever. No need to be quite as helpful as you were.

To be ultra-pedantic, the nominal voltage has been 110, 115, 117, and 120 at
different times during the 20th century. I don't know what it is now, but
the voltage at my house is about 128, and we buy 130-volt light bulbs.

Traditional-minded people still refer to it as "110."

I'm told that in Japan, it's nominally 100 volts.
Click to expand...
Yes, and I suppose allowing for the 100VAC nominal @ 50Hz that half of
Japan uses adds a tiny bit of cost to millions of switching power
supplies.

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
 
On a sunny day (Fri, 04 Jun 2004 13:31:18 GMT) it happened Spehro Pefhany
<speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote in
<psu0c0dffocbro0qqt914al0ja0qus76up@4ax.com>:>>
For your information, the voltage in North America oscillates between 110V
and 120V.

The average mains voltage here is actually zero, but mine tends to
oscillate between about +174V and -174V.
Try a low pass.
Click to expand...
JP
 
Tam/WB2TT wrote:

"Mortel" <No_Spam@spam.com> wrote in message
news:42_vc.115713$tb4.4629552@news20.bellglobal.com...

For your information, the voltage in North America oscillates between 110V
and 120V. If you measure voltage in my house you can have 111V and if you
go by the other side of the street you will get 115V and so on. This is

the

reality, I don't think it can be a "Security" issue since once redressed,
the voltage can be properly regulated. You're a little quick to end in
conclusions, you don't know at all how this guy works and you're sending

him

to jail only based on an information that you didn't verify... for me this
is a nonsense.

Mortel­.


If you look at a US light bulb or appliance, it says 120V. Years ago, the
standard was 117. If I see less than 120, it is a brownout. Usually runs
123 -126.

Tam
Click to expand...
I generally design for a minimum of 105V to 110V, to avoid those brown
out problems.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com
 
On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 08:53:35 -0700, Tim Wescott
<tim@wescottnospamdesign.com> wrote:

[snip]
I generally design for a minimum of 105V to 110V, to avoid those brown
out problems.
Click to expand...
Back when I did off-line designs I designed for a range of 88-132VAC.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
 
Jim Thompson wrote:
On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 08:53:35 -0700, Tim Wescott
tim@wescottnospamdesign.com> wrote:

[snip]

I generally design for a minimum of 105V to 110V, to avoid those brown
out problems.


Back when I did off-line designs I designed for a range of 88-132VAC.

...Jim Thompson
Click to expand...
I'll adjust my thinking -- but isn't the 88V to account for brown-out
conditions when your equipment is being used in Japan (60Hz, with
nominal 100V line)?

I didn't know that ECL would work off-line -- don't those chips have a
5.5V maximum supply limit?

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com
 
On a sunny day (Fri, 4 Jun 2004 10:12:28 -0400) it happened "Michael A.
Covington" <look@www.covingtoninnovations.com.for.address> wrote in
<VuadndpQw4rQHl3dRVn-hA@speedfactory.net>:


To be ultra-pedantic, the nominal voltage has been 110, 115, 117, and 120 at
different times during the 20th century. I don't know what it is now, but
the voltage at my house is about 128, and we buy 130-volt light bulbs.
You will finally reach 240 as we have ;-)
Click to expand...
JP
 
On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 09:25:10 -0700, Tim Wescott
<tim@wescottnospamdesign.com> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:
On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 08:53:35 -0700, Tim Wescott
tim@wescottnospamdesign.com> wrote:

[snip]

I generally design for a minimum of 105V to 110V, to avoid those brown
out problems.


Back when I did off-line designs I designed for a range of 88-132VAC.

...Jim Thompson

I'll adjust my thinking -- but isn't the 88V to account for brown-out
conditions when your equipment is being used in Japan (60Hz, with
nominal 100V line)?
Click to expand...
Yep... universal equipment... also had auto-switch to Euro voltages.

I didn't know that ECL would work off-line -- don't those chips have a
5.5V maximum supply limit?
Click to expand...
Toggle once, smoke mostly ;-)

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
 
In article <loednVtzqdV14V3dRVn-tA@comcast.com>,
Tam/WB2TT <t-tammaru@c0mca$t.net> wrote:
[........]
If you look at a US light bulb or appliance, it says 120V. Years ago, the
standard was 117. If I see less than 120, it is a brownout. Usually runs
123 -126.
Click to expand...
Oh my gawd! San Jose California is having a brown out; Stop the presses.
The mains voltage is only 118.92V.

Measured with a Fluke 45 with up to date calibration.

--
--
kensmith@rahul.net forging knowledge
 
On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 09:25:10 -0700, the renowned Tim Wescott
<tim@wescottnospamdesign.com> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:
On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 08:53:35 -0700, Tim Wescott
tim@wescottnospamdesign.com> wrote:

[snip]

I generally design for a minimum of 105V to 110V, to avoid those brown
out problems.


Back when I did off-line designs I designed for a range of 88-132VAC.

...Jim Thompson

I'll adjust my thinking -- but isn't the 88V to account for brown-out
conditions when your equipment is being used in Japan (60Hz, with
nominal 100V line)?
Click to expand...
Part of Japan is 50Hz and part is 60Hz. I don't remember which part is
which. They, like Taiwan, generally use a two-pin North American-style
plug for residential.

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
 
"Tim Wescott" <tim@wescottnospamdesign.com> wrote in message
news:10c16ns86qd4j5f@corp.supernews.com...
Tam/WB2TT wrote:

"Mortel" <No_Spam@spam.com> wrote in message
news:42_vc.115713$tb4.4629552@news20.bellglobal.com...

For your information, the voltage in North America oscillates between
110V
and 120V. If you measure voltage in my house you can have 111V and if
you
go by the other side of the street you will get 115V and so on. This is

the

reality, I don't think it can be a "Security" issue since once
redressed,
the voltage can be properly regulated. You're a little quick to end in
conclusions, you don't know at all how this guy works and you're sending

him

to jail only based on an information that you didn't verify... for me
this
is a nonsense.

Mortel­.


If you look at a US light bulb or appliance, it says 120V. Years ago,
the
standard was 117. If I see less than 120, it is a brownout. Usually runs
123 -126.

Tam



I generally design for a minimum of 105V to 110V, to avoid those brown
out problems.

--
I have had to do 95 to 135. I see the Astrodyne supplies are 85 to 265. I
Click to expand...
saw a power company statement somewhere that they try to keep it just above
120 at the meter. Yes, I have (gulp) First Energy, but we didn't go down
when the rest of the NE did. Argument here seems to be what do you call the
nominal voltage.

Tam
Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com
Click to expand...
 
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