Valve/tube car radio AM to FM conversion ideas?

[N_Cook]

For appearance and modern day use in a vintage vehicle.
That is adding an FM IC inside somewhere rather than RF converter plugged in
aerial socket.
Assuming there is somewhere around the volume control to switch out the AM
and switch in an FM IC o/p audio . How to secrete that switch and a step
through the band switch as channel changer.
Maybe possible to change the LW/MW switch to MW/FM and if some part of the
dial scale is flexible then hide a switch behind that.
Any other ideas without affecting the external appearance of the original?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[DaveM]

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:g29ks9$g3j$1@registered.motzarella.org...

For appearance and modern day use in a vintage vehicle.
That is adding an FM IC inside somewhere rather than RF converter plugged in
aerial socket.
Assuming there is somewhere around the volume control to switch out the AM
and switch in an FM IC o/p audio . How to secrete that switch and a step
through the band switch as channel changer.
Maybe possible to change the LW/MW switch to MW/FM and if some part of the
dial scale is flexible then hide a switch behind that.
Any other ideas without affecting the external appearance of the original?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

I don't think adding a single IC is going to give you what you want... instead,
I'd look at a complete FM receiver. Take a look at the Velleman FM receiver kit
at http://www.vellemanusa.com/us/enu/product/view/?id=351280. There is a link
to the "manual" for the kit that shows the schematic. Considering that an FM
radio needs a few tuned circuits, building your own might be a bit more than you
want to tackle.
There are a few gotchas in this approach... no frequency display is the main
drawback. But since the tuning appears to be via a small pot, you could draw
one and fix it to the dash. Just tap into the appropriate power, volume,
tuning, etc. on the board and bring them out to the dash. You can buy a copy of
this kit at http://www.bgmicro.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=11929.

If you want to go very cheaply, look at the little receiver at
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G15657. It looks very
similar to a little receiver that I was given at a trade show a few years ago.
Major problem with this unit is that there is no tuning... it has a scan button;
it scans the FM band from low end to high end.
Just locate the power connections, volume control and scan button, bring them
out to the dash panel, and you're in business.

Hth,
--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

 

[N_Cook]

DaveM <masondg4499@comcast99.net> wrote in message
news:bJmdndviY63n9NXVnZ2dnUVZ_j2dnZ2d@comcast.com...

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:g29ks9$g3j$1@registered.motzarella.org...
For appearance and modern day use in a vintage vehicle.
That is adding an FM IC inside somewhere rather than RF converter
plugged in
aerial socket.
Assuming there is somewhere around the volume control to switch out the
AM
and switch in an FM IC o/p audio . How to secrete that switch and a step
through the band switch as channel changer.
Maybe possible to change the LW/MW switch to MW/FM and if some part of
the
dial scale is flexible then hide a switch behind that.
Any other ideas without affecting the external appearance of the
original?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



I don't think adding a single IC is going to give you what you want...
instead,
I'd look at a complete FM receiver. Take a look at the Velleman FM
receiver kit
at http://www.vellemanusa.com/us/enu/product/view/?id=351280. There is a
link
to the "manual" for the kit that shows the schematic. Considering that an
FM
radio needs a few tuned circuits, building your own might be a bit more
than you
want to tackle.
There are a few gotchas in this approach... no frequency display is the
main
drawback. But since the tuning appears to be via a small pot, you could
draw
one and fix it to the dash. Just tap into the appropriate power, volume,
tuning, etc. on the board and bring them out to the dash. You can buy a
copy of
this kit at
http://www.bgmicro.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=11929.

If you want to go very cheaply, look at the little receiver at
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G15657. It
looks very
similar to a little receiver that I was given at a trade show a few years
ago.
Major problem with this unit is that there is no tuning... it has a scan
button;
it scans the FM band from low end to high end.
Just locate the power connections, volume control and scan button, bring
them
out to the dash panel, and you're in business.

Hth,
--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters
in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

I should have said retaining the original in working order but just adding
in somewhere, the guts from one of those matchbox size fm radios. No display
just 2 buttons on/off and channel step and an earpiece. Maybe requiring some
buffering or something to drop it in the existing (mono of course)
amplifier. Preferably no holes drilled through the front pannel.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <g29ks9$g3j$1@registered.motzarella.org>,
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

For appearance and modern day use in a vintage vehicle. That is adding
an FM IC inside somewhere rather than RF converter plugged in aerial
socket. Assuming there is somewhere around the volume control to switch
out the AM and switch in an FM IC o/p audio . How to secrete that switch
and a step through the band switch as channel changer. Maybe possible to
change the LW/MW switch to MW/FM and if some part of the dial scale is
flexible then hide a switch behind that. Any other ideas without
affecting the external appearance of the original?

There's a UK company that specialises in such work -

The Vintage Wireless Company
0161 973 0438

Think they're a pretty small outfit and it's possible they will give some
help to a fellow trader. ;-)

--
*It is easier to get older than it is to get wiser.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Gary Tayman]

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:g29ks9$g3j$1@registered.motzarella.org...

For appearance and modern day use in a vintage vehicle.
That is adding an FM IC inside somewhere rather than RF converter plugged
in
aerial socket.
Assuming there is somewhere around the volume control to switch out the AM
and switch in an FM IC o/p audio . How to secrete that switch and a step
through the band switch as channel changer.

You have just described the FM Module exactly! Just one fly in the soup --
these haven't been available for several years.

I do stereo conversions on these radios. Vintage Wireless in England
(mentioned elsewhere in this thread) also does these, hopefully quicker and
for less money than it would cost to ship it to me.

All of these products originated at a place called Antique Automobile Radio
in Palm Harbor, Florida. Dan Schulz, the owner, began as simply a dealer
who repaired old car radios. As replacement vibrators became scarce, he
started making solid state replacements. Then, as customers were asking for
FM, he designed an FM Module that would fit inside the radio. Eventually he
designed a stereo PCB, and the popularity of these soared -- to the point
where only two dealers in the entire world were still asking for FM Modules
(me and one other). They were finally discontinued. Now Dan is making
reproduction radios for certain cars -- radios that look exactly like the
original, but are complete new radios with the AM/FM stereo technology.

The FM Module was a neat little device. It was a tiny PCB with an FM tuner
built onto it. Connections were to the antenna (with a 6.8 uH choke for
separation), to the grid of the converter tube (or to the LO coil for
transistor sets), to +12 volt power, and to the top of the volume control --
and the wire going to the volume control is rerouted to the PCB.

Switching is done by turning the radio off and immediately back on. PCB's
could be set up for FM first, or AM first. In AM mode, relay is off and the
AM audio is connected to the top of the volume control. In FM mode, the
relay is energized, and the FM output is fed to the volume control. FM
tuning is performed with the radio's original tuning knob -- it uses the
radio's LO frequency to tune FM.

This Module was actually quite a performer, and a very likeable product.
The one and only "bug" of sorts was the fact that it could drift, and the
amount of drift varied with the radio model. The radio's LO drift is
usually not enough to notice, but when multiplied for the FM frequencies it
could make a difference. Even so, it still was a nice product.

At one time, about a third of the radios sent to me wanted the FM Module
installed. It was also handy for early Bendix, and early Delco AM/FM radios
with awful FM front ends. If repair of these was difficult or impossible, I
would simply disconnect the FM entirely and install an FM Module to the AM
coil. The only thing customers ever noticed was that their radio performed
better than ever in FM!

The day the FM Modules were discontinued, I discontinued offering service on
car radios. I've since offered service again on radios, but not on AM/FM's.



--
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Collector Car Audio
http://www.taymanelectrical.com

 

[Gary Tayman]

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:g29ks9$g3j$1@registered.motzarella.org...

For appearance and modern day use in a vintage vehicle.
That is adding an FM IC inside somewhere rather than RF converter plugged
in
aerial socket.
Assuming there is somewhere around the volume control to switch out the AM
and switch in an FM IC o/p audio . How to secrete that switch and a step
through the band switch as channel changer.

You have just described the FM Module exactly! Just one fly in the soup --
these haven't been available for several years.

I do stereo conversions on these radios. Vintage Wireless in England
(mentioned elsewhere in this thread) also does these, hopefully quicker and
for less money than it would cost to ship it to me.

All of these products originated at a place called Antique Automobile Radio
in Palm Harbor, Florida. Dan Schulz, the owner, began as simply a dealer
who repaired old car radios. As replacement vibrators became scarce, he
started making solid state replacements. Then, as customers were asking for
FM, he designed an FM Module that would fit inside the radio. Eventually he
designed a stereo PCB, and the popularity of these soared -- to the point
where only two dealers in the entire world were still asking for FM Modules
(me and one other). They were finally discontinued. Now Dan is making
reproduction radios for certain cars -- radios that look exactly like the
original, but are complete new radios with the AM/FM stereo technology.

The FM Module was a neat little device. It was a tiny PCB with an FM tuner
built onto it. Connections were to the antenna (with a 6.8 uH choke for
separation), to the grid of the converter tube (or to the LO coil for
transistor sets), to +12 volt power, and to the top of the volume control --
and the wire going to the volume control is rerouted to the PCB.

Switching is done by turning the radio off and immediately back on. PCB's
could be set up for FM first, or AM first. In AM mode, relay is off and the
AM audio is connected to the top of the volume control. In FM mode, the
relay is energized, and the FM output is fed to the volume control. FM
tuning is performed with the radio's original tuning knob -- it uses the
radio's LO frequency to tune FM.

This Module was actually quite a performer, and a very likeable product.
The one and only "bug" of sorts was the fact that it could drift, and the
amount of drift varied with the radio model. The radio's LO drift is
usually not enough to notice, but when multiplied for the FM frequencies it
could make a difference. Even so, it still was a nice product.

At one time, about a third of the radios sent to me wanted the FM Module
installed. It was also handy for early Bendix, and early Delco AM/FM radios
with awful FM front ends. If repair of these was difficult or impossible, I
would simply disconnect the FM entirely and install an FM Module to the AM
coil. The only thing customers ever noticed was that their radio performed
better than ever in FM!

The day the FM Modules were discontinued, I discontinued offering service on
car radios. I've since offered service again on radios, but not on AM/FM's.



--
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Collector Car Audio
http://www.taymanelectrical.com

 

[Gary Tayman]

"Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote in message
news:bjfm44p87okvqcre4thb0jnlidenoe7gpa@4ax.com...

Just curious, would it be possible for you to duplicate those modules
yourself, or did they require that NLA FM IC?

These modules did indeed use specialized IC's, which were part of their

demise.

AAR had just introduced a new version of the Stereo PCB, which had a digital
tuner. It worked fine on the bench but went crazy in the field, so Dan had
to quickly redesign it. It so happens this "quick redesign" was by far the
best version to date, and sales suddenly went through the roof. However
during this time Dan was going through some family problems, and if that
wasn't enough the IC's used in the FM Modules were discontinued. So
suddenly the FM boards became unavailable.

Dan eventually managed to redesign a new FM board, and this was cool as it
was the size of a postage stamp. But it also had a bug. I was given about
three or four to experiment with; I think one actually made it to the field
and worked (in a Mopar 802) but the others are still here. Dan eventually
decided that, with sales of Stereo PCB's going wild, and with waning
interest in the FM boards, he scrapped the project.

The remaining FM Modules went pretty much to experimenters, some of which
installed them in home radios, and they worked. Someday when I have lotsa
time I'll tinker with the ones I have to see what happens. Installation
isn't hard, except it needs 12 volts DC for power, and the radio must have
an oscillator (meaning I can't put one in my AK-60 -- darn).


--
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Collector Car Audio
http://www.taymanelectrical.com

 

[Gary Tayman]

"Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote in message
news:bjfm44p87okvqcre4thb0jnlidenoe7gpa@4ax.com...

Just curious, would it be possible for you to duplicate those modules
yourself, or did they require that NLA FM IC?

These modules did indeed use specialized IC's, which were part of their

demise.

AAR had just introduced a new version of the Stereo PCB, which had a digital
tuner. It worked fine on the bench but went crazy in the field, so Dan had
to quickly redesign it. It so happens this "quick redesign" was by far the
best version to date, and sales suddenly went through the roof. However
during this time Dan was going through some family problems, and if that
wasn't enough the IC's used in the FM Modules were discontinued. So
suddenly the FM boards became unavailable.

Dan eventually managed to redesign a new FM board, and this was cool as it
was the size of a postage stamp. But it also had a bug. I was given about
three or four to experiment with; I think one actually made it to the field
and worked (in a Mopar 802) but the others are still here. Dan eventually
decided that, with sales of Stereo PCB's going wild, and with waning
interest in the FM boards, he scrapped the project.

The remaining FM Modules went pretty much to experimenters, some of which
installed them in home radios, and they worked. Someday when I have lotsa
time I'll tinker with the ones I have to see what happens. Installation
isn't hard, except it needs 12 volts DC for power, and the radio must have
an oscillator (meaning I can't put one in my AK-60 -- darn).


--
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Collector Car Audio
http://www.taymanelectrical.com

 

[davidlaska]

On Jun 5, 5:06 am, JW <n...@dev.null> wrote:

on Thu, 5 Jun 2008 03:23:45 -0700 (PDT) davidlaska <Davidla...@gmail.com
wrote in Message id:
756b5f94-cb30-4149-a808-f39a2dee4...@x1g2000prh.googlegroups.com>:



On Jun 4, 7:58?pm, "Trevor Wilson"
trevor@_SPAMBLOCK_rageaudio.com.au> wrote:
"davidlaska" <Davidla...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:2bd0e1df-f6de-4f6a-aadf-9cae8e20dadd@b9g2000prh.googlegroups.com...

I have had it for decades but I do not want to give it up because it
works fine withstand the popping and hissing it does in all modes
except off. ?Is it over for it?

**The lack of actual information you've provided is simply breath-taking. At
a very minimum, here's what you need to supply:

Model Number
If the fault is input dependent.
If the fault is volume control level dependent.
If the fault is tone control dependent.
Does it occur after a period of time, or immediately?
Etc.

--
Trevor Wilsonwww.rageaudio.com.au

All answers are 'no' and it is in one channel.

Question 4 is not a yes or no answer, is it?

I will use a set of these made in China for computer speaker needs.
However, I will miss my last receiver ( the Marantz four channel) that
has survived with me ( I am 48).

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

I have been a member in good standing with eBay since 1999. As readers
of Sam's Laser FAQ are probably aware, I have acquired a large number of
lasers and related items on eBay, most at bargain basement prices. All in
all I have been very satisfied with the eBay experience. Until now.

For a blow-by-blow saga of what I'm experiencing now, please go to

http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/ebayhorror1.htm

I will be updating this as it plays out. I expect the outcome to be
satisfactory, but the route it's taking is like one of those nightmares
where you're trapped on a 15 dimensional mobius strip.

Comments welcome!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Engineer]

On Jun 6, 3:05 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

DaveM <masondg4...@comcast99.net> wrote in message

news:bJmdndviY63n9NXVnZ2dnUVZ_j2dnZ2d@comcast.com...



"N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:g29ks9$g3j$1@registered.motzarella.org...
For appearance and modern day use in a vintage vehicle.
That is adding an FM IC inside somewhere rather than RF converter
plugged in
aerial socket.
Assuming there is somewhere around the volume control to switch out the
AM
and switch in an FM IC o/p audio . How to secrete that switch and a step
through the band switch as channel changer.
Maybe possible to change the LW/MW switch to MW/FM and if some part of
the
dial scale is flexible then hide a switch behind that.
Any other ideas without affecting the external appearance of the
original?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

I don't think adding a single IC is going to give you what you want...
instead,
I'd look at a complete FM receiver.  Take a look at the Velleman FM
receiver kit
athttp://www.vellemanusa.com/us/enu/product/view/?id=351280.  There is a
link
to the "manual" for the kit that shows the schematic.  Considering that an
FM
radio needs a few tuned circuits, building your own might be a bit more
than you
want to tackle.
There are a few gotchas in this approach... no frequency display is the
main
drawback.  But since the tuning appears to be via a small pot, you could
draw
one and fix it to the dash.  Just tap into the appropriate power, volume,
tuning, etc. on the board and bring them out to the dash.  You can buy a
copy of
this kit at

http://www.bgmicro.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=11929.







If you want to go very cheaply, look at the little receiver at
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G15657.  It
looks very
similar to a little receiver that I was given at a trade show a few years
ago.
Major problem with this unit is that there is no tuning... it has a scan
button;
it scans the FM band from low end to high end.
Just locate the power connections, volume control and scan button, bring
them
out to the dash panel, and you're in business.

Hth,
--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net  (Just substitute the appropriate characters
in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

I should have said retaining the original in working order but just adding
in somewhere, the guts from one of those matchbox size fm radios. No display
just 2 buttons on/off and channel step and an earpiece. Maybe requiring some
buffering or something to drop it in the existing (mono of course)
amplifier. Preferably no holes drilled through the front pannel.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list onhttp://home..graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Surely the real fun is to use the FM to AM converter Rx so that yiou
can listen to the "old 'un". I use my AMT3000 Tx the same way at
home. Feed it with a s/s FM tuner and listen on one of several
refurbished AA5's and AC-only sets to "exercise" them - the converter
tube, IF amp and det/AF and OP tube all a-pumpin' away! <g>
Cheers,
Roger

 

[Meat Plow]

On Fri, 06 Jun 2008 16:08:03 +0100, Tim Phipps wrote:

Eeyore wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

Besides, I can buy a 2000 watt amp brand new also made in China for around
$300 US.

I wouldn't expect it to work for very long.

Graham


Seems to me that you have a problem with anything made in China. We all
know that you get some crap made there but sometimes some good stuff
comes from there. Most of my amps are British made (Matrix) but I have
a couple of Chinese made amps, one Audiohead and the other T.amp brand
from thomann.de which look like the same amp to me, both have been in
service on the road for about 3 years now without trouble.

You might also remember some time ago when I posted for help with a dead
Studiomaster 700D. The fault turned out to be a bad power transformer
which was not economical to replace even by substitution with off the
shelf parts. That amp got replaced with another Chinese made T.amp from
Thomann which has also given me no problems.

Do you remember looking at the 4-63 volt, 3300uf caps in your 700D? I just
replaced the banana jack on mine and those 4 caps looked like the tops
were puffed. I pulled the top off one and there is a convexed steel cap
over the actual can under the heat shrink that makes these look domed. And
they appear also to run pretty warm discoloring the white glue used to
bond them to the pcb. The amp works fine otherwise and I've never had any
problems with it. It was formerly used to power A/V sub-woofers and had
been left on continuously for a couple years. Next trip to the electronics
shop will probably yield a new set just for my piece of mind.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> writes:

Sam Goldwasser wrote:

I have been a member in good standing with eBay since 1999. As readers
of Sam's Laser FAQ are probably aware, I have acquired a large number of
lasers and related items on eBay, most at bargain basement prices. All in
all I have been very satisfied with the eBay experience. Until now.

For a blow-by-blow saga of what I'm experiencing now, please go to

http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/ebayhorror1.htm

I will be updating this as it plays out. I expect the outcome to be
satisfactory, but the route it's taking is like one of those nightmares
where you're trapped on a 15 dimensional mobius strip.

Just be happy that you aren't trapped in a Klein bottle!

That would be more intersting though.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"anorton" <anorton@removethis.ix.netcom.com> writes:

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6w63smarx0.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu...
I have been a member in good standing with eBay since 1999. As readers
of Sam's Laser FAQ are probably aware, I have acquired a large number of
lasers and related items on eBay, most at bargain basement prices. All in
all I have been very satisfied with the eBay experience. Until now.

For a blow-by-blow saga of what I'm experiencing now, please go to

http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/ebayhorror1.htm

I will be updating this as it plays out. I expect the outcome to be
satisfactory, but the route it's taking is like one of those nightmares
where you're trapped on a 15 dimensional mobius strip.

Comments welcome!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/

Interesting. I was in the middle of a (small) transaction with a longtime
reputable seller whose account was then suspended the same day as yours.
Maybe a hacker has figured out how to fool their screening program to create
havoc. For example, If he creates an account using your address, then is
suspended for behaving badly, his account would be linked to yours because
of the same address.

That's sort of along the lines of what I'm thinking as well. Assuming it isn't
a typo on someone's part entering eBay IDs, then I'm sure there is
something legitimate to the investigation. But some elementary
Web and directory searches would quickly reveal who has the real
addresses and other contact information. This is like a bad Hitchcock
script!

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Don Bowey]

On 6/6/08 7:40 PM, in article 6w63smarx0.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu, "Sam
Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote:

I have been a member in good standing with eBay since 1999. As readers
of Sam's Laser FAQ are probably aware, I have acquired a large number of
lasers and related items on eBay, most at bargain basement prices. All in
all I have been very satisfied with the eBay experience. Until now.

For a blow-by-blow saga of what I'm experiencing now, please go to

http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/ebayhorror1.htm

I will be updating this as it plays out. I expect the outcome to be
satisfactory, but the route it's taking is like one of those nightmares
where you're trapped on a 15 dimensional mobius strip.

Comments welcome!

I've not had a problem of that kind with the idiots, but I have attempted to
do a problem resolution with them and find them useless droids.

To minimize contact with them I even quit using Paypal, as they wanted too
much personal information such as checking account, etc. I don't trust them
and never will.

Were I you, I'd talk with my attorney about the bad experience.

Good luck; you'll need it.;

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

Don Bowey <dbowey@comcast.net> writes:

On 6/6/08 7:40 PM, in article 6w63smarx0.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu, "Sam
Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote:

I have been a member in good standing with eBay since 1999. As readers
of Sam's Laser FAQ are probably aware, I have acquired a large number of
lasers and related items on eBay, most at bargain basement prices. All in
all I have been very satisfied with the eBay experience. Until now.

For a blow-by-blow saga of what I'm experiencing now, please go to

http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/ebayhorror1.htm

I will be updating this as it plays out. I expect the outcome to be
satisfactory, but the route it's taking is like one of those nightmares
where you're trapped on a 15 dimensional mobius strip.

Comments welcome!

I've not had a problem of that kind with the idiots, but I have attempted to
do a problem resolution with them and find them useless droids.

To minimize contact with them I even quit using Paypal, as they wanted too
much personal information such as checking account, etc. I don't trust them
and never will.

Were I you, I'd talk with my attorney about the bad experience.

Good luck; you'll need it.;

For me, I do eBay for fun. It's not like a day job so being kicked off
for a few days may be a good thing. Other than the time I've spent
trying to communicate with the droids and writing up the saga, it gives
me more time for other things. Perhaps they will have done me a favor
if I never get back on!

But I could just imagine if this happened to someone whose business
was selling on eBay.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Tim Phipps]

Meat Plow wrote:

Do you remember looking at the 4-63 volt, 3300uf caps in your 700D? I just
replaced the banana jack on mine and those 4 caps looked like the tops
were puffed. I pulled the top off one and there is a convexed steel cap
over the actual can under the heat shrink that makes these look domed. And
they appear also to run pretty warm discoloring the white glue used to
bond them to the pcb. The amp works fine otherwise and I've never had any
problems with it. It was formerly used to power A/V sub-woofers and had
been left on continuously for a couple years. Next trip to the electronics
shop will probably yield a new set just for my piece of mind.

I was beginning to think my posts were not making it out there until I
saw your reply (Arfa was right about the Virgin Media news server being
troublesome!)

I don't remember looking closely but I don't think they were
particularly domed. It was at least 2 years ago when it died. I do
remember that everything looked very clean in there. The amp had an
easy life in a church install but for some reason the power transformer
got shorted on the primary thus blowing the mains fuse every time.
Since it was a custom part I enquired with Toroid International about
purchasing a replacement but it would have cost about ÂŁ150 as I guess
they were not making these in volume any more. When I saw that I could
just replace the whole amp for the same money it was a no-brainer.

--
Tim Phipps

replace "invalid" with "uk" to reply by email

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

James Sweet <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> writes:

Sam Goldwasser wrote:
I have been a member in good standing with eBay since 1999. As readers
of Sam's Laser FAQ are probably aware, I have acquired a large number of
lasers and related items on eBay, most at bargain basement prices. All in
all I have been very satisfied with the eBay experience. Until now.
For a blow-by-blow saga of what I'm experiencing now, please go to
http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/ebayhorror1.htm
I will be updating this as it plays out. I expect the outcome to be
satisfactory, but the route it's taking is like one of those nightmares
where you're trapped on a 15 dimensional mobius strip.
Comments welcome!

Maybe wrapping your letter around a brick and tossing it through the
window of their headquarters would get someone to actually read it.

You must be the eternal optimist.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzacharias@nonsense.net> writes:

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6w3anpyjsr.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu...
Don Bowey <dbowey@comcast.net> writes:

On 6/6/08 7:40 PM, in article 6w63smarx0.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu, "Sam
Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote:

I have been a member in good standing with eBay since 1999. As readers
of Sam's Laser FAQ are probably aware, I have acquired a large number
of
lasers and related items on eBay, most at bargain basement prices. All
in
all I have been very satisfied with the eBay experience. Until now.

For a blow-by-blow saga of what I'm experiencing now, please go to

http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/ebayhorror1.htm

I will be updating this as it plays out. I expect the outcome to be
satisfactory, but the route it's taking is like one of those nightmares
where you're trapped on a 15 dimensional mobius strip.

Comments welcome!

I've not had a problem of that kind with the idiots, but I have attempted
to
do a problem resolution with them and find them useless droids.

To minimize contact with them I even quit using Paypal, as they wanted
too
much personal information such as checking account, etc. I don't trust
them
and never will.

Were I you, I'd talk with my attorney about the bad experience.

Good luck; you'll need it.;

For me, I do eBay for fun. It's not like a day job so being kicked off
for a few days may be a good thing. Other than the time I've spent
trying to communicate with the droids and writing up the saga, it gives
me more time for other things. Perhaps they will have done me a favor
if I never get back on!

But I could just imagine if this happened to someone whose business
was selling on eBay.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above
is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included
in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.


Very possibly a phishing e-mail. Any time you get a suspicious e-mail from
"Ebay" you should NOT respond to any link in the suspect e-mail. Go directly
to Ebay's security center and give them the details, including the source
code of the suspect e-mail.

Since you clicked on the link contained in the e-mail it is important you do
virus and malware scans IMMEDIATELY.

I read email in Mutt (a text program) on unix. For me to follow a link
requires copying and pasting, which I will only do IF the URL contains
the primary domain of the supposed sender. This I only do rarely.
And with eBay, there is always the duplicate copy in the "My Messages",
which isn't blocked by being suspended. And don't forgate that those
bid cancellation emails had to have originated from within the eBay system.

Thanks for your thoughts though.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

> Mark Z.

 

[msg]

Jim Adney wrote:

<snip>

In the meantime, I have a tube settings booklet from Heath dated 1976,
which I suspect is their latest version. If anyone has a later version
let me know. Mine is getting a bit shopworn, so I'm thinking about
scanning it and getting copies made. In the process of doing that, I
could also add in any extra tubes that Heath added in some supplements
that I also have.

Please consider scanning it instead, make a PDF (or just a tarball of
the images) and post it to the files section in the Heathkit Yahoo
group, or provide an url for download instead. This would help
a lot of folks down the road. There are a number of scans of versions
of this data, but yours may be more inclusive or of better visual
quality.

Michael