Unsolderable wire?

B

Bob E.

Guest
I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the
dielectric insulation.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this
before.

Thanks.
 
"Bob E." wrote:
Yes it's that crap.

I suppose you could try an aluminum flux, but can't you just unravel
and gather enough of the shield to crimp into a ring terminal or
something?

Yeah, that's my next move. I just couldn't believe that something couldn't be
soldered. I guess REALLY agressive flux is required, as you say.

When it comes to broadcast TV I try to solder every connection possible.
Every crimp is one more dB lost.
Click to expand...

You must do lousy crimping, if you lose a dB.

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
 
On 01/18/2014 10:50 PM, Bob E. wrote:
Yes it's that crap.

I suppose you could try an aluminum flux, but can't you just unravel
and gather enough of the shield to crimp into a ring terminal or
something?

Yeah, that's my next move. I just couldn't believe that something couldn't be
soldered. I guess REALLY agressive flux is required, as you say.

When it comes to broadcast TV I try to solder every connection possible.
Every crimp is one more dB lost.

Thanks.

Crimps in hand...

I would have thought every soldered joint is one more reflection.
Click to expand...
 
When it comes to broadcast TV I try to solder every connection possible.
Every crimp is one more dB lost.
Click to expand...

I'm no RF expert, just my impression--possibly mistaken.

Thanks.
 
On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 20:50:34 -0800, the renowned Bob E.
<bespoke@invalid.tv> wrote:

Yes it's that crap.

I suppose you could try an aluminum flux, but can't you just unravel
and gather enough of the shield to crimp into a ring terminal or
something?

Yeah, that's my next move. I just couldn't believe that something couldn't be
soldered. I guess REALLY agressive flux is required, as you say.

When it comes to broadcast TV I try to solder every connection possible.
Every crimp is one more dB lost.

Thanks.

Crimps in hand...
Click to expand...

I guess there's always better stuff like this:-

http://nordencommunication.com/download?file=1460-RG_6u.pdf



Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
 
Yes it's that crap.

I suppose you could try an aluminum flux, but can't you just unravel
and gather enough of the shield to crimp into a ring terminal or
something?
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's my next move. I just couldn't believe that something couldn't be
soldered. I guess REALLY agressive flux is required, as you say.

When it comes to broadcast TV I try to solder every connection possible.
Every crimp is one more dB lost.

Thanks.

Crimps in hand...
 
On 1/18/2014 11:22 PM, Bob E. wrote:
I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the
dielectric insulation.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this
before.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Twist the braid into a wire and butt splice on a copper wire. Heat
shrink over it.
 
"Bob E." wrote:
I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the
dielectric insulation.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this
before.
Click to expand...

It's not made to be soldered. It's CATV cable that's made for crimp
on 'F' fittings.

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
 
On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 20:22:18 -0800, the renowned Bob E.
<bespoke@invalid.tv> wrote:

I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the
dielectric insulation.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this
before.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

If it's like this cr*p they sell at Home Despot, it's copper clad
steel core with an _aluminum_ braid shield:-

http://www.cerrowire.com/files/file/49223_CERRO_CoaxialCable_6U_QUADLR.pdf

That would explain the copper-like heat conduction that you're
observing.

I suppose you could try an aluminum flux, but can't you just unravel
and gather enough of the shield to crimp into a ring terminal or
something?



Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
 
"Bob E."

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum.
Click to expand...

** A magnet will pick up steel wire - but no Aluminium.


What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder?
Click to expand...

** Unplated steel or Aluminium wires are not solderable by ordinary means.




..... Phil
 
On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 20:22:18 -0800, Bob E. <bespoke@invalid.tv>
wrote:

I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the
dielectric insulation.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this
before.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

---
Use crimp ferrules.

http://www.te.com/catalog/feat/en/c/10028

11.5 at:

http://snebulos.mit.edu/projects/reference/NASA-Generic/NASA-STD-8739-4.pdf

JF
 
On 2014-01-19, Bob E <bespoke@invalid.tv> wrote:
I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.
Click to expand...

yeah stainless steel braid, aluminium shield and a copper-plated steel
core. most of the RG6 I've used is like that.

a solderable F connector socket is probably the best way to terminate it.

> What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder?

Give up! If you can't give up spot weld it to some tinned copper.

--
For a good time: install ntp

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
 
On 19/01/2014 04:22, Bob E. wrote:
I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the
dielectric insulation.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this
before.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

If it's for personal use, tightly wrap a dozen turns of tinned copper
wire (or silver plated) around the braid, twist the end together and
solder to these.

Cheers
--
Syd
 
"Spehro Pefhany" wrote in message
news:v8lmd9tfpopj1kuv72m95aouolvlduj539@4ax.com...

If it's like this cr*p they sell at Home Despot, it's copper-
clad steel core with an _aluminum_ braid shield.
Click to expand...

Aluminum is a poor choice for a crimped connection. Remember the problems with
household aluminum wiring -- even when it was screwed down?
 
In article <0001HW.CF0092FA036D6B77B01029BF@news.eternal-september.org>,
bespoke@invalid.tv says...
I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the
dielectric insulation.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this
before.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Electroplated wire, most likely nickel.

Jamie
 
Well, what does it feel like?

Steel wire feels very stiff. Grab a leaded component out of the box and
ponder the leads; they're probably tin plated steel (check with a magnet).
Most resistors, capacitors and diodes are. Some smaller ceramic caps have
thicker, softer copper leads; find some if you can.

Aluminum wire is very soft, floppy stuff. It is much softer than copper,
than copper is of steel. If that's what it is... oh well.

As for soldering practice... the old saw about "apply solder to the
opposite side of the joint" is complete BS. Forget about it. Don't try
soldering as you were told, make the solder happy and good joints will
follow. First goal, get the part hot: hold the iron on the part, and
apply solder right beside the iron, or to it, so the iron heats and wets
what it's touching. On a braid, solder will spread and soon the joint
will accept solder from all sides.

Tim

--
Seven Transistor Labs
Electrical Engineering Consultation
Website: http://seventransistorlabs.com

"Bob E." <bespoke@invalid.tv> wrote in message
news:0001HW.CF0092FA036D6B77B01029BF@news.eternal-september.org...
I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin.
It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With
both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I
finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite
the
iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid
against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting
the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted
the
dielectric insulation.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is
tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed
that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen
this
before.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
On 01/18/2014 08:22 PM, Bob E. wrote:
I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a
temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally
tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the
iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against
the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the
2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the
dielectric insulation.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned
copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not
aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that
back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this
before.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

A solder pot is preferred. Otherwise burn all the non-metallic weirdness
away with your trusty Zippo.
 
Michael A. Terrell scribbled thus:

"Bob E." wrote:

Yes it's that crap.

I suppose you could try an aluminum flux, but can't you just
unravel and gather enough of the shield to crimp into a ring
terminal or something?

Yeah, that's my next move. I just couldn't believe that something
couldn't be soldered. I guess REALLY agressive flux is required, as
you say.

When it comes to broadcast TV I try to solder every connection
possible. Every crimp is one more dB lost.


You must do lousy crimping, if you lose a dB.
Click to expand...

I agree ! A good crimp is at least as good as the best solder joint.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.
 
On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 20:22:18 -0800, Bob E. wrote:

I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's
almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With
both a temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I
finally tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid
opposite the iron.

I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester
60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid
against the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with
melting the 2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later.

My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted
the dielectric insulation.
Click to expand...

Its virtually impossible to tin polyethylene coax braid without softening
the dielectric. It will re-solidify. PTFE (Teflon) is better in that
respect.

The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is
tinned copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly
not aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've
trimmed that back and it's not part of this frustrating process right
now.
Click to expand...

If you think the braid is steel, try it with a magnet.

From a quick look at Belden specs, they, at least, don't make any RG6
types with steel braid. There are some versions with aluminum braid.

What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen
this before.
Click to expand...

If it's aluminum, you can't. Either get some cable with tinned or silver
plated copper braid, or put a BNC socket on the PCB, and a crimp BNC on
the cable. (I don't trust crimping to aluminum, BTW, there's a
metallurgical creep problem)

--
"Design is the reverse of analysis"
(R.D. Middlebrook)
 
On 1/19/2014 2:30 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
"Bob E." wrote:

When it comes to broadcast TV I try to solder every connection possible.
Every crimp is one more dB lost.

I'm no RF expert, just my impression--possibly mistaken.


The loss should be under .1 dB for a good F connector,
Click to expand...
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Jumbo shrimp alert. ;)

Cheers

Phil Hobbs


--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
 
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