TV

[Grid Leak]

So what we have here is a TV with a blown aliminium fuse wanting to be used
by a pommie on the London underground to watch Yankee soap operas.
However someone who knows bugger all about anything wants to fix it himself
but cannot remove the back cover. Neither does he want to purchase a new TV
as he is certain it is only a small fault caused be a 10 cent component.
He wants someone in this NG to tell him which component is faulty and where
to buy the component - although he is certain it is really only a fuse, so
that the TV Tech who pays big rental along with other high overheads so as
to earn a meagre living, should actually take in the TV and repair it for a
pitance, as the diagnosis of a blown fuse has already been carried out by
our learned friend. Never mind the reason for the 'blown' fuse and the time
it takes to locate the faulty components that caused the fuse to 'blow'.
Then of course, once the $10.00 repair that took 2 hours is complete, the
entire set must be warantied for at least a year or two against anything.
Oh, and of course, he wants the set to be collected and delivered all as
part of his10 bucks.
Big Spender - Big Prick!

 

[ian field]

"TG'sFM" <suvvdj@yahoo.fr> wrote in message
news:a5ac7533-aa99-485a-b184-0c3f451f2885@g1g2000pra.googlegroups.com...
On Jul 8, 6:26 am, "ian field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com> wrote:

"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelati...@notcoldmail.com> wrote in message

news:0097eb18$0$7764$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com...





ian field wrote:

"Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote
"Tron"

Buying a new set would not be an easy fix.

Surely there would be a fuse near the power supply to handle power
surges.

** Go find it and replace it, should be rated between 2 to 5 amps.

Be sure to buy a "slow blow" type - will have the letter " T " in
front
of the amp rating.

..... Phil

Most resourceful bodgers just wrap the old fuse with aluminium foil.

Just ensure your fire insurance is good.

When I made my living repairing TVs, pulling the back off to check for
"tin-foil fuses" was always the first task with every TV!

Is there good money in taking the back of TV's to check for tin foil
fuses?

Not anymore!

 

[ian field]

"TG'sFM" <suvvdj@yahoo.fr> wrote in message
news:ba557095-c9f0-4dd2-a55f-d7c11a9e7360@r15g2000pra.googlegroups.com...
On Jul 8, 6:44 am, "ian field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com> wrote:

"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelati...@notcoldmail.com> wrote in message

news:0097ea16$0$7764$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com...





Tron wrote:

Have a TV that suddently won't turn on anymore. I press the power
button
and
nothing happens, as though there is no power supply. Doesn't seem like
the
tube has gone or anything like that. What is the likely cause? Blown
fuse?

Such things have been known to happen !

Easy to fix?

A bugger on my JVC to get at the fuse. I finally fixed the problem by
adding a
surge arrester across the incoming mains.

Graham

Had a real strange one not long ago from a neighbour, the set was OK
except
the mains fuse was sticking up in one end of the fuse clip like a
tombstone.

It turned out the real problem was with the handset, which (when it had
fresh batteries) was sending all the time. As it was filthy I stripped it
down and chucked the plastic parts in the ultrasonic cleaner while I went
over the soldering on the PCB. It was only when I put it back together, I
noticed that the left/right buttons aren't interchangeable with the
up/down
buttons and if put back wrong 1 or 2 of the buttons are permanently
pressed.

That's a lovely story. Do you have any others you could share?

Not really, I quit TV repairs many years ago - that was just a one-off I got
pestered into doing.

There is a funny story from my monitor days, I was getting a large
percentage of monitors coming in with poisoned CRT cathodes, running over
night with a plain white screen and the vol/cont controls full up would
produce varying degrees of recovery.

By chance I remembered having seen a memo slipped between the pages of the
Philips CRT data book so I searched it out and had a look. Apparently some
'genius' at Philips had decreed that since modern TVs had precisely
regulated SMPSUs that didn't sag under varying brightness, the heater
voltage should be adjusted down from 6.3V to 6.15V - with predictable
results!

It seems that many monitor manufacturers had acted on this dubious
information as measurements of heater circuits on a variety of monitors
consistently read less than 6.3V.

The solution I devised was to firstly check/replace the heater rail
reservoir electrolytic and re-check the voltage, next if the heater
rectifier wasn't already a Shottky barrier type, then fit one. This usually
requires using the removed fast-soft recovery rectifier to make a reverse
voltage snubber, an expensive and rare high voltage SB rectifier can be
fitted temporarily while the diode/resistor/capacitor components are
selected by trial & error to damp the reverse peaks to what a readily
available 30 or 40V SB diode can handle, finally a high value polyester
capacitor can be added in parallel with the reservoir electrolytic to
compensate for the higher junction capacitance of a SB rectifier.

 

[geoff]

Phil Allison wrote:

"geoff"
Phil Allison wrote:
"Tron"


Buying a new set would not be an easy fix.

Surely there would be a fuse near the power supply to handle power
surges.


** Go find it and replace it, should be rated between 2 to 5 amps.

Be sure to buy a "slow blow" type - will have the letter " T " in
front of the amp rating.


Eeek. I'd be more inclined to replace it with the exact specified
type.


** Which, if you can read, is what my post says to do.

Fuckwit.


..... Phil

Hi Fuckwit ....Phil (hey , great sig !).

So the label on the back of the chassis says "Fuse spec, between 2 and 5
amps, slow-blow" ?

geoff

 

[Trevor Wilson]

"Grid Leak" <grid@leak.g1> wrote in message
news:xi_4m.3482$ze1.1528@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

So what we have here is a TV with a blown aliminium fuse wanting to be
used by a pommie on the London underground to watch Yankee soap operas.
However someone who knows bugger all about anything wants to fix it
himself but cannot remove the back cover. Neither does he want to purchase
a new TV as he is certain it is only a small fault caused be a 10 cent
component.
He wants someone in this NG to tell him which component is faulty and
where to buy the component - although he is certain it is really only a
fuse, so that the TV Tech who pays big rental along with other high
overheads so as to earn a meagre living, should actually take in the TV
and repair it for a pitance, as the diagnosis of a blown fuse has already
been carried out by our learned friend. Never mind the reason for the
'blown' fuse and the time it takes to locate the faulty components that
caused the fuse to 'blow'.
Then of course, once the $10.00 repair that took 2 hours is complete, the
entire set must be warantied for at least a year or two against anything.
Oh, and of course, he wants the set to be collected and delivered all as
part of his10 bucks.
Big Spender - Big Prick!

**Touche'.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

 

[Tron]

"Grid Leak" <grid@leak.g1> wrote in message
news:xi_4m.3482$ze1.1528@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

So what we have here is a TV with a blown aliminium fuse wanting to be
used by a pommie on the London underground to watch Yankee soap operas.
However someone who knows bugger all about anything wants to fix it
himself but cannot remove the back cover. Neither does he want to purchase
a new TV as he is certain it is only a small fault caused be a 10 cent
component.
He wants someone in this NG to tell him which component is faulty and
where to buy the component - although he is certain it is really only a
fuse, so that the TV Tech who pays big rental along with other high
overheads so as to earn a meagre living, should actually take in the TV
and repair it for a pitance, as the diagnosis of a blown fuse has already
been carried out by our learned friend. Never mind the reason for the
'blown' fuse and the time it takes to locate the faulty components that
caused the fuse to 'blow'.
Then of course, once the $10.00 repair that took 2 hours is complete, the
entire set must be warantied for at least a year or two against anything.
Oh, and of course, he wants the set to be collected and delivered all as
part of his10 bucks.
Big Spender - Big Prick!

I would definitely be expecting collection and delivery as part of the
service, and if there is just the slightest scratch on the surface of the
set I would be executing a citizen's arrest and calling the police on
account of the criminal damage.

 

[Zappy]

On Jul 9, 10:24 am, "Tron" <t...@movie.net> wrote:

"Grid Leak" <g...@leak.g1> wrote in message

news:xi_4m.3482$ze1.1528@news-server.bigpond.net.au...



So what we have here is a TV with a blown aliminium fuse wanting to be
used by a pommie on the London underground to watch Yankee soap operas.
However someone who knows bugger all about anything wants to fix it
himself but cannot remove the back cover. Neither does he want to purchase
a new TV as he is certain it is only a small fault caused be a 10 cent
component.
He wants someone in this NG to tell him which component is faulty and
where to buy the component - although he is certain it is really only a
fuse, so that the TV Tech who pays big rental along with other high
overheads so as to earn a meagre living, should actually take in the TV
and repair it for a pitance, as the diagnosis of a blown fuse has already
been carried out by our learned friend. Never mind the reason for the
'blown' fuse and the time it takes to locate the faulty components that
caused the fuse to 'blow'.
Then of course, once the $10.00 repair that took 2 hours is complete, the
entire set must be warantied for at least a year or two against anything.
Oh, and of course, he wants the set to be collected and delivered all as
part of his10 bucks.
Big Spender - Big Prick!

I would definitely be expecting collection and delivery as part of the
service, and if there is just the slightest scratch on the surface of the
set I would be executing a citizen's arrest and calling the police on
account of the criminal damage.

"citizen's arrest"?

What's that?

This isn't Peoria you know.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Tron wrote:

I would definitely be expecting collection and delivery as part of the
service, and if there is just the slightest scratch on the surface of the
set I would be executing a citizen's arrest and calling the police on
account of the criminal damage.

I would expect that the orderly will be around soon with your
medication, and a fresh straight jacket for you..


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense!

 

[ian field]

"geoff" <geoff@nospam-paf.co.nz> wrote in message
news:mp-dnT56cZmvt8jXnZ2dnVY3goWdnZ2d@giganews.com...

Phil Allison wrote:
"geoff"
Phil Allison wrote:
"Tron"


Buying a new set would not be an easy fix.

Surely there would be a fuse near the power supply to handle power
surges.


** Go find it and replace it, should be rated between 2 to 5 amps.

Be sure to buy a "slow blow" type - will have the letter " T " in
front of the amp rating.


Eeek. I'd be more inclined to replace it with the exact specified
type.


** Which, if you can read, is what my post says to do.

Fuckwit.


..... Phil

Hi Fuckwit ....Phil (hey , great sig !).

So the label on the back of the chassis says "Fuse spec, between 2 and 5
amps, slow-blow" ?

geoff

Phil's not having one of his lucid moments!

 

[Tron]

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...

"Tron"


Buying a new set would not be an easy fix.

Surely there would be a fuse near the power supply to handle power
surges.


** Go find it and replace it, should be rated between 2 to 5 amps.

Be sure to buy a "slow blow" type - will have the letter " T " in front
of the amp rating.

I've finally got round to doing this. I've seen the warning on the back of
the TV that says "Do not remove cover. Electric shock."

Two questions:

1. If I have the TV unplugged, is there no risk of electric shock?

2. Do I need to take off the whole back half of the TV just to look at the
fuses near the power supply?

 

[Tron]

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...

"Tron"


Buying a new set would not be an easy fix.

Surely there would be a fuse near the power supply to handle power
surges.


** Go find it and replace it, should be rated between 2 to 5 amps.

Be sure to buy a "slow blow" type - will have the letter " T " in front
of the amp rating.

I've finally got round to doing this. I've seen the warning on the back of
the TV that says "Do not remove cover. Electric shock."

Two questions:

1. If I have the TV unplugged, is there no risk of electric shock?

2. Do I need to take off the whole back half of the TV just to look at the
fuses near the power supply?

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2009-08-01, Tron <tron@movie.net> wrote:

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...

"Tron"


Buying a new set would not be an easy fix.

Surely there would be a fuse near the power supply to handle power
surges.


** Go find it and replace it, should be rated between 2 to 5 amps.

Be sure to buy a "slow blow" type - will have the letter " T " in front
of the amp rating.

I've finally got round to doing this. I've seen the warning on the back of
the TV that says "Do not remove cover. Electric shock."

Two questions:

1. If I have the TV unplugged, is there no risk of electric shock?

there is often still a risk of electric shock. best practice is to
stand on an insulating surface and only touch the internals of TV with
one hand (and no other body part)

large electric charges may be stored in the capacitors near the power
section and in the CRT itself.

2. Do I need to take off the whole back half of the TV just to look at the
fuses near the power supply?

Usually, yes. in most cases the fuse will not blow unless some other
part of the TV is faulty, so the makers have no incentive to make the
fuse easily accessible,

 

[ian field]

"Jasen Betts" <jasen@xnet.co.nz> wrote in message
news:h514sb$546$3@reversiblemaps.ath.cx...

On 2009-08-01, Tron <tron@movie.net> wrote:

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...

"Tron"


Buying a new set would not be an easy fix.

Surely there would be a fuse near the power supply to handle power
surges.


** Go find it and replace it, should be rated between 2 to 5 amps.

Be sure to buy a "slow blow" type - will have the letter " T " in
front
of the amp rating.

I've finally got round to doing this. I've seen the warning on the back
of
the TV that says "Do not remove cover. Electric shock."

Two questions:

1. If I have the TV unplugged, is there no risk of electric shock?

there is often still a risk of electric shock. best practice is to
stand on an insulating surface and only touch the internals of TV with
one hand (and no other body part)

large electric charges may be stored in the capacitors near the power
section and in the CRT itself.

2. Do I need to take off the whole back half of the TV just to look at
the
fuses near the power supply?

Usually, yes. in most cases the fuse will not blow unless some other
part of the TV is faulty, so the makers have no incentive to make the
fuse easily accessible,

Repair tech's that know what they're doing sometimes bridge blown fuses with
a 60W light bulb, this limits the current to a safe value and allows voltage
measurements to be taken on the SMPSU to determine which part is causing the
overload.

For safety's sake wear thick rubber soled shoes, make sure no part of your
body is touching anything earthed and work with one hand in your pocket so
you can't complete a circuit across your chest.