Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Michael Kennedy]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:5P6Zj.24533$_g.5032@trnddc07...

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
James Sweet wrote:
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Gareth Magennis wrote:
"Senin" <senin@inbox.com> wrote in message
news:c69e4436-bf8d-4d0f-bfa2-21d016c6b79d@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
My housekeeper accidentally deleted all the messages (including my 2
year old daughter's) from my Uniden 900 MHz 378 series telephone
answering machine. Any possibible way of getting those messages
back?
Well, it has been shown recently that RAM chips can be read after
removing
them from a switched off computer, and the data retrieved. This is
usually
done by cooling the chips with liquid nitrogen before removal. The
memory
holds the data long enough to be read off the chips, despite current
beliefs/data about how long memory chips keep their data. (often a few
minutes after the machine has shut down - much longer if cooled down).

This has quite serious implications as far as computer security is
concerned, as the RAM often contains copies of any data that was last
used,
and is often not encryted, despite any encryption used in the machine.
(This is an oversight of some encryption systems I believe)

In your case it may be possible to remove the memory chips and copy
them,
then you would need some sort of undelete software, and you may be
able to
get your messages back. But somehow I don't think you are going to
try
that.

Gareth.

The messages are stored in flash memory which is EEROM, not RAM.


Mine uses RAM, there's a 9V battery backp, lose that and all the
incoming and outgoing messages are lost. I finally modified it with a
resistor to charge a 9V NiCd battery.


I've never seen that, but I have salvaged several flash memory chips
form physically damaged units. Any idea when yours was built?




I picked it up for free years ago, it's a fairly early one, if I had to
guess, I'd estimate it to be mid 90s. Flash certainly makes more sense, at
least at modern prices.

I have one from the late 90's and it uses RAM as well. If you unplug it
without a backup battery it looses everything.

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:5P6Zj.24533$_g.5032@trnddc07...

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
James Sweet wrote:
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Gareth Magennis wrote:
"Senin" <senin@inbox.com> wrote in message
news:c69e4436-bf8d-4d0f-bfa2-21d016c6b79d@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
My housekeeper accidentally deleted all the messages (including my 2
year old daughter's) from my Uniden 900 MHz 378 series telephone
answering machine. Any possibible way of getting those messages
back?
Well, it has been shown recently that RAM chips can be read after
removing
them from a switched off computer, and the data retrieved. This is
usually
done by cooling the chips with liquid nitrogen before removal. The
memory
holds the data long enough to be read off the chips, despite current
beliefs/data about how long memory chips keep their data. (often a few
minutes after the machine has shut down - much longer if cooled down).

This has quite serious implications as far as computer security is
concerned, as the RAM often contains copies of any data that was last
used,
and is often not encryted, despite any encryption used in the machine.
(This is an oversight of some encryption systems I believe)

In your case it may be possible to remove the memory chips and copy
them,
then you would need some sort of undelete software, and you may be
able to
get your messages back. But somehow I don't think you are going to
try
that.

Gareth.

The messages are stored in flash memory which is EEROM, not RAM.


Mine uses RAM, there's a 9V battery backp, lose that and all the
incoming and outgoing messages are lost. I finally modified it with a
resistor to charge a 9V NiCd battery.


I've never seen that, but I have salvaged several flash memory chips
form physically damaged units. Any idea when yours was built?




I picked it up for free years ago, it's a fairly early one, if I had to
guess, I'd estimate it to be mid 90s. Flash certainly makes more sense, at
least at modern prices.

I have one from the late 90's and it uses RAM as well. If you unplug it
without a backup battery it looses everything.

 

[dBc]

Greetings -Senin..

Why is your housekeeper even close enough around your answering
machine to 'accidentally' do this?

Solution, make it clear to either stay away from personal electronics
and especially your telephone answering machine or she will be
replaced. Simple as that.. Otherwise, this is likely to happen [yet]
again.

The "oh, sorry about that.." routine doesn't cut it unless she has
been with you for years and this just happened out of the blue. I will
tell you that the housekeepers love to tell stories like this with
other housekeepers about how they do such things for jollies.. Senin,
IF it was truly important to you, then it's time for the bill payer to
be stern, otherwise, she won't consider it any more important than you
do!

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor



"Senin" <senin@inbox.com> wrote in message
news:c69e4436-bf8d-4d0f-bfa2-21d016c6b79d@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
| My housekeeper accidentally deleted all the messages (including my 2
| year old daughter's) from my Uniden 900 MHz 378 series telephone
| answering machine. Any possibible way of getting those messages
back?

 

[dBc]

Greetings -Senin..

Why is your housekeeper even close enough around your answering
machine to 'accidentally' do this?

Solution, make it clear to either stay away from personal electronics
and especially your telephone answering machine or she will be
replaced. Simple as that.. Otherwise, this is likely to happen [yet]
again.

The "oh, sorry about that.." routine doesn't cut it unless she has
been with you for years and this just happened out of the blue. I will
tell you that the housekeepers love to tell stories like this with
other housekeepers about how they do such things for jollies.. Senin,
IF it was truly important to you, then it's time for the bill payer to
be stern, otherwise, she won't consider it any more important than you
do!

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor



"Senin" <senin@inbox.com> wrote in message
news:c69e4436-bf8d-4d0f-bfa2-21d016c6b79d@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
| My housekeeper accidentally deleted all the messages (including my 2
| year old daughter's) from my Uniden 900 MHz 378 series telephone
| answering machine. Any possibible way of getting those messages
back?

 

[dBc]

Greetings..

Regarding:
"Mainly though, I'm interested in ideas in how to control the actual
FM radio/ cd player using the laptop/pda ."

WHY would you want to use a laptop to control car audio? Perhaps a
hand remote control, I could see, but why go to the extent of
deploying a laptop in the car for this? That makes no sense.

The solution is a car stereo that isn't so UN-user friendly that you
consider that it requires a PC to control it! Further, in the long
run, you'll enjoy it more and save yourself a few greenbacks in the
process. Consider the resale value of car electronics (stereos) after
a few months to a year before sinking hundreds (if not more) into car
stereos.

Something to consider and remember..

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor



<SuryaDipta@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:cea34b3d-f464-4856-af17-eef21c1f8347@34g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
| Hello fellow inquisitive beings,
|
| I'm a complete newbie to car electronics and was wondering if there
is
| anyway you could use laptop/pda to control your car audio. Mainly
| though, I'm interested in ideas in how to control the actual FM
radio/
| cd player using the laptop/pda . I DON'T want to play music from my
| laptop using the car speakers. Rather I want to control the car
audio
| using my laptop. Thank you very much for any input or direction that
| anyone could provide.
|
| Cheers.

 

[dBc]

Greetings..

Regarding:
"Mainly though, I'm interested in ideas in how to control the actual
FM radio/ cd player using the laptop/pda ."

WHY would you want to use a laptop to control car audio? Perhaps a
hand remote control, I could see, but why go to the extent of
deploying a laptop in the car for this? That makes no sense.

The solution is a car stereo that isn't so UN-user friendly that you
consider that it requires a PC to control it! Further, in the long
run, you'll enjoy it more and save yourself a few greenbacks in the
process. Consider the resale value of car electronics (stereos) after
a few months to a year before sinking hundreds (if not more) into car
stereos.

Something to consider and remember..

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor



<SuryaDipta@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:cea34b3d-f464-4856-af17-eef21c1f8347@34g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
| Hello fellow inquisitive beings,
|
| I'm a complete newbie to car electronics and was wondering if there
is
| anyway you could use laptop/pda to control your car audio. Mainly
| though, I'm interested in ideas in how to control the actual FM
radio/
| cd player using the laptop/pda . I DON'T want to play music from my
| laptop using the car speakers. Rather I want to control the car
audio
| using my laptop. Thank you very much for any input or direction that
| anyone could provide.
|
| Cheers.

 

[dBc]

Greetings..

Have you considered giving Sony Service a call and asking? In
addition, simply getting a hold the service manual through Sony
Service. These are possible solutions.

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor


"UCLAN" <nomail@thanks.org> wrote in message
news:OFOXj.44607$Fc1.32653@newsfe07.phx...
| Does anyone here know if the Sony SLV-P30HF VCR has SQPB (SVHS Quasi
| playback) circuitry? Thanks.

 

[dBc]

Greetings..

Have you considered giving Sony Service a call and asking? In
addition, simply getting a hold the service manual through Sony
Service. These are possible solutions.

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor


"UCLAN" <nomail@thanks.org> wrote in message
news:OFOXj.44607$Fc1.32653@newsfe07.phx...
| Does anyone here know if the Sony SLV-P30HF VCR has SQPB (SVHS Quasi
| playback) circuitry? Thanks.

 

[dBc]

Greetings TX7123 & others..

Regarding:
"If you decide to replace the transistor, you'll need a source for the
part, and most suppliers have 15.00 to 20.00 minimum orders."

Consider:
http://www.electronix.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/3545
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/content/ProductData/Catalog50/section16.pdf
http://www.rcetronics.com/transist.htm
( "No order is too small." )

For the datasheet on a 2SD613:
http://www.littlediode.com/components/product.php?productid=46727&cat=287&page=209
( click on, Click Here, at the page - make sure you have Adobe
Reader )

Incidentally, Mouser does not have a minimum order however, they do
not show stock on a 2SD613. Needless to say shipping has gone way up
for *everyone.*
http://www.mouser.com/

At 1490 pages, Mouser [typically] has what you need. I don't doubt
that they have an equivalent to the 2SD613 in stock. However, with
the above actual transistors, you have alternatives.

Regarding the 2SC4793:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Ntt=*2SC4793*&N=1323038&Ntx=mode%2bmatchall&Ns=P_SField&OriginalKeyword=2SC4793&Ntk=Mouser_Wildcards

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor




"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzacharias@nonsense.net> wrote in message
news:1cCVj.3272$J16.426@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net...
|
| <tx7123@yahoo.com> wrote in message
|
news:b2fdab22-8f8c-4c93-a720-d79cc0fe3bff@i76g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
| On May 3, 5:19 pm, "Mark D. Zacharias" <mzachar...@nonsense.net>
| wrote:
| >Hi ,
|
| <SNIP>
|
| > I decided to lift the board and look at the solder for the device
| >sanyo 313e.
| >Before I could do anything the V shaped metal (heatsink?) attached

to
| >the

| >device just fell off. The plastic screw holding it had just cracked

in
| >half.

| >There also is a thin piece of plastic between the device and the
| >heatsink.
| >I'm assuming that they do want the device to touch the metal.
| >I could not find a another plastic screw, so I use a metal one
with
| <an
| >insulating washer. I hope that is ok. Why does the device need to

be
| >insulated from the metal heatsink. Is it strictly pecautionary, in

| >case
| >the heatsink comes in contact with something else. Would it be ok
| >to put some cpu grease between the device and the plastic

insulator?
| > Anyway after all this the solder looked ok, so I did not

resolder.
| >I wonder if my problem all along was that the heatsink
| >was just hanging on by a thread.
| > Anyway it seems to work ok. I'll run it for a while with the case
| >open
| as a precaution.
|
| >Thanks
|
| If the solder is really OK, which I doubt. Then the transistor is
failing.
| On this TO-220 case transistor this most commonly happens from a
| base-emitter junction opening up internally.
|
| If you were to look very closely at the solder connections ( I
recommend a
| magnifying glass) I believe you will see the ring-cracks around the
| transistor leads.
|
| In this particular case the heat sink has no other electrical
connection,
| but you are still going to need another screw and nut. Another mica
| insulator and some silicon grease would be good, although as I say,
in this
| case I think you could dispense with the mica.
|
| Alternatively you could use a newer style TO-220PL plastic case
transistor
| such as a 2SC4793 which requires no insulator.
|
| It's unfortunate in a way that your skills and experience don't seem
to
| quite be up to the task. I don't say that as a put-down, but this
whole
| thing should have been over long ago.
|
| If you decide to replace the transistor, you'll need a source for
the part,
| and most suppliers have 15.00 to 20.00 minimum orders.
|
| You might consider OEQuotefix to fix your problem with Outlook
Express
| making messy looking posts. It's a free download.
|
|
| Mark Z.
|
|

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"D" <tarb@bk.ru> wrote in message
news:1da0dd27-604a-47dc-a759-7635083f9b5d@c58g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
On May 21, 6:18 pm, ransley <Mark_Rans...@yahoo.com> wrote:

On May 21, 7:02 am, D <t...@bk.ru> wrote:





On May 21, 3:54 pm, ransley <Mark_Rans...@yahoo.com> wrote:> On May 21,
5:30 am, D <t...@bk.ru> wrote:

Hello!
Why does a panoramic video (in an evening or inside a building, shot
by Sony HC5E camcorder) look like the frame rate is about 10 fps? My
11-year old JVC VHS-C camcorder never had this problem, the video
was
always fluid.
Best regards,
Dima

Im sure the manual will tell you if you read it, but I guess its a low
light mode and it probably is indicated on the screen

Thanks for replying!
No, it's not the low light mode. I do not enable it and it is not
indicated on the screen.

You said panoramic is that a special wide mode, if its new take it
back, sony manuals are junk, and I found options even Sony support did
not even know that are not in my manual, that I could shoot stills
while taking video on an old unit. They have so much new stuff out its
hard to know all the operating parameters on every model. Keep looking
you will figure it out, but color slow shutter may be automatic and
its on with Night Shot on mine- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks Mark for replying!
Panoramic video means that you turn a camcorder around its axis during
recording.

<snip>

What?? If that is the actual function setting, it makes no sense at all to
have such a setting. You could do the same thing with any video camera. Are
you sure it is not a wide screen setting?

Mike

 

[gareth magennis]

"orange" <orange47@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:40383e7a-402f-4e54-8db2-a043996e19c2@f36g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...

Is it safe to keep the CMOS chips (RAM) in plastic box?
if not, can it be modified to be safe somehow, I just don't have any
alternative..

Wrap some aluminium foil around a small piece of expanded polystyrene, then
you can just push the chips into the sandwich and keep the lot in a plastic
box. The foil shorts all the pins together so there can be no potential
difference between any.


Gareth.

 

[gareth magennis]

"orange" <orange47@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:40383e7a-402f-4e54-8db2-a043996e19c2@f36g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...

Is it safe to keep the CMOS chips (RAM) in plastic box?
if not, can it be modified to be safe somehow, I just don't have any
alternative..

Wrap some aluminium foil around a small piece of expanded polystyrene, then
you can just push the chips into the sandwich and keep the lot in a plastic
box. The foil shorts all the pins together so there can be no potential
difference between any.


Gareth.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Michael" <Temprock@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:45f6bc7c-304c-457e-8286-c7ffcb4c71a0@79g2000hsk.googlegroups.com...

On May 21, 10:36 pm, "hr(bob) hofm...@att.net" <hrhofm...@att.net
wrote:
On May 21, 2:49 pm, Michael <Tempr...@hotmail.com> wrote:


Mr. Cook: Thank you kindly for supplying the links to information. Mr.
Hoffman unfortunately I am not even slightly mechanically inclined.

I guess part of this post was to express surprise (1) that an
important component (the Play button) of a Sony product not abused
didn't last more than 2 1/2 years; and (2) that Sony gives consumers
extremely limited options for repairing these things, a repair that
Mr. Hoffman indicated would be simple for even a moderately skilled
repair person (let alone a Sony factory trained facility that I could
drive to).

Again thanks for the feedback.

Ha ! Would that we still had 'factory' training from *any* manufacturer ...
Most manufacturer training is now at best, a one day seminar in a hotel, and
in some cases, even just a 'virtual' classroom that you log into online.
Many manufacturers don't even offer this rudimentary level of support to the
people who have to mend their kit. Hell, many manufacturers won't even
supply service information, and there's even some who hide their identity
behind badge names, so that there's not even a 'company' you can get in
touch with at all for *any* purpose !

That said, Sony usually have local service agents who are often independants
that take on all-comers, and regional Service Centres that are part financed
by Sony. I am actually really surprised that Sony themselves could not put
you in touch with a service agent within a reasonable distance. In terms of
their service network, they are one of the better companies, although not
what they were even 10 years ago.

There is some validity in what was said in one of the other replies about
whether the cost of a repair is 'worth it', but I readily accept that that
is down to you to decide, as it depends on what the item is worth to you. I
see equipment every single week, that I would consider to be beyond economic
repair, but which the owner goes ahead with, either because they are
'comfortable' with that equipment, or that a similar replacement is no
longer available.

FWIW, problems with Sony buttons failing to latch, or jamming latched, used
to be quite common. Often, it's just down to wear on the profile of the
'shoulder' on the button lever, causing it to fail to engage properly with
the latch bar. This later develops until the latch bar jams, often as a
result of harder and harder presses by the owner, until the button bar gets
bent and the button won't then release. It's a simple fix that just involves
a touch here and there with a rat-tail file to reprofile the latching
surfaces, and a bit of grease. Even if the button itself was damaged, it
should still be available through third party spares agents, so if I were
you, I would just take it in to any repair shop, who should at least be able
to quote you on the repair - they will probably have seen the problem many
times before as I have. You do not have to take it to an 'official' Sony
dealer. Sony spares are, for the most part, available to any repair outfit.

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Michael" <Temprock@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:45f6bc7c-304c-457e-8286-c7ffcb4c71a0@79g2000hsk.googlegroups.com...

On May 21, 10:36 pm, "hr(bob) hofm...@att.net" <hrhofm...@att.net
wrote:
On May 21, 2:49 pm, Michael <Tempr...@hotmail.com> wrote:


Mr. Cook: Thank you kindly for supplying the links to information. Mr.
Hoffman unfortunately I am not even slightly mechanically inclined.

I guess part of this post was to express surprise (1) that an
important component (the Play button) of a Sony product not abused
didn't last more than 2 1/2 years; and (2) that Sony gives consumers
extremely limited options for repairing these things, a repair that
Mr. Hoffman indicated would be simple for even a moderately skilled
repair person (let alone a Sony factory trained facility that I could
drive to).

Again thanks for the feedback.

Ha ! Would that we still had 'factory' training from *any* manufacturer ...
Most manufacturer training is now at best, a one day seminar in a hotel, and
in some cases, even just a 'virtual' classroom that you log into online.
Many manufacturers don't even offer this rudimentary level of support to the
people who have to mend their kit. Hell, many manufacturers won't even
supply service information, and there's even some who hide their identity
behind badge names, so that there's not even a 'company' you can get in
touch with at all for *any* purpose !

That said, Sony usually have local service agents who are often independants
that take on all-comers, and regional Service Centres that are part financed
by Sony. I am actually really surprised that Sony themselves could not put
you in touch with a service agent within a reasonable distance. In terms of
their service network, they are one of the better companies, although not
what they were even 10 years ago.

There is some validity in what was said in one of the other replies about
whether the cost of a repair is 'worth it', but I readily accept that that
is down to you to decide, as it depends on what the item is worth to you. I
see equipment every single week, that I would consider to be beyond economic
repair, but which the owner goes ahead with, either because they are
'comfortable' with that equipment, or that a similar replacement is no
longer available.

FWIW, problems with Sony buttons failing to latch, or jamming latched, used
to be quite common. Often, it's just down to wear on the profile of the
'shoulder' on the button lever, causing it to fail to engage properly with
the latch bar. This later develops until the latch bar jams, often as a
result of harder and harder presses by the owner, until the button bar gets
bent and the button won't then release. It's a simple fix that just involves
a touch here and there with a rat-tail file to reprofile the latching
surfaces, and a bit of grease. Even if the button itself was damaged, it
should still be available through third party spares agents, so if I were
you, I would just take it in to any repair shop, who should at least be able
to quote you on the repair - they will probably have seen the problem many
times before as I have. You do not have to take it to an 'official' Sony
dealer. Sony spares are, for the most part, available to any repair outfit.

Arfa

 

[Gareth Magennis]

"Michael" <Temprock@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:45f6bc7c-304c-457e-8286-c7ffcb4c71a0@79g2000hsk.googlegroups.com...

On May 21, 10:36 pm, "hr(bob) hofm...@att.net" <hrhofm...@att.net
wrote:
On May 21, 2:49 pm, Michael <Tempr...@hotmail.com> wrote:


Mr. Cook: Thank you kindly for supplying the links to information. Mr.
Hoffman unfortunately I am not even slightly mechanically inclined.

I guess part of this post was to express surprise (1) that an
important component (the Play button) of a Sony product not abused
didn't last more than 2 1/2 years; and (2) that Sony gives consumers
extremely limited options for repairing these things, a repair that
Mr. Hoffman indicated would be simple for even a moderately skilled
repair person (let alone a Sony factory trained facility that I could
drive to).

Again thanks for the feedback.

The main criterion now for producing these sort of goods is a low retail
price. These things are actually really cheap now. I can go into Tesco on
my way home and pick up a DVD player or Sattelite box with a years warranty
for Ł20.
But with the cheap price comes the drawback of little or no service. If you
want your goods to last longer or to come with good service backup, you will
have to pay a lot more for them. Service is a very expensive thing for a
company to provide and generally makes no income, so generally you won't
find much of it. Instead, they will have the stuff made in China for a very
low price, and then you can go and buy your stuff for a very low price, and
it will last for a while. If you took it to China to have it repaired you
may be able to get it done for a reasonable percentage of its value, but not
in the Western world where wages and the cost of running a business is a
magnitude higher.

Unfortunately you cannot have your cake and eat it. You do have a choice of
buying much better quality goods at much higher prices though, with the
possibility of having it repaired should it go wrong outside of warranty, if
you are prepared to pay what it actually costs to repair it.

Having said that, Sony does or did have a network of Sony Service Centres,
but the prices were very high, probably in line with what they actually cost
to provide. I don't remember seeing any other maufacturer doing anything
similar.




Gareth.

 

[Gareth Magennis]

"Michael" <Temprock@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:45f6bc7c-304c-457e-8286-c7ffcb4c71a0@79g2000hsk.googlegroups.com...

On May 21, 10:36 pm, "hr(bob) hofm...@att.net" <hrhofm...@att.net
wrote:
On May 21, 2:49 pm, Michael <Tempr...@hotmail.com> wrote:


Mr. Cook: Thank you kindly for supplying the links to information. Mr.
Hoffman unfortunately I am not even slightly mechanically inclined.

I guess part of this post was to express surprise (1) that an
important component (the Play button) of a Sony product not abused
didn't last more than 2 1/2 years; and (2) that Sony gives consumers
extremely limited options for repairing these things, a repair that
Mr. Hoffman indicated would be simple for even a moderately skilled
repair person (let alone a Sony factory trained facility that I could
drive to).

Again thanks for the feedback.

The main criterion now for producing these sort of goods is a low retail
price. These things are actually really cheap now. I can go into Tesco on
my way home and pick up a DVD player or Sattelite box with a years warranty
for Ł20.
But with the cheap price comes the drawback of little or no service. If you
want your goods to last longer or to come with good service backup, you will
have to pay a lot more for them. Service is a very expensive thing for a
company to provide and generally makes no income, so generally you won't
find much of it. Instead, they will have the stuff made in China for a very
low price, and then you can go and buy your stuff for a very low price, and
it will last for a while. If you took it to China to have it repaired you
may be able to get it done for a reasonable percentage of its value, but not
in the Western world where wages and the cost of running a business is a
magnitude higher.

Unfortunately you cannot have your cake and eat it. You do have a choice of
buying much better quality goods at much higher prices though, with the
possibility of having it repaired should it go wrong outside of warranty, if
you are prepared to pay what it actually costs to repair it.

Having said that, Sony does or did have a network of Sony Service Centres,
but the prices were very high, probably in line with what they actually cost
to provide. I don't remember seeing any other maufacturer doing anything
similar.




Gareth.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <483537EF.A19D7C3F@hotmail.com>,
Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

Wrap some aluminium foil around a small piece of expanded polystyrene,
then you can just push the chips into the sandwich and keep the lot in
a plastic box. The foil shorts all the pins together so there can be
no potential difference between any.

Aluminium foil is a BAD idea. In the event that there is any appreciable
charge on a given pin, pushing it into aluminium foil will discharge it
*quickly* and the resulting current may kill it.

I've just received some kits from Jaycar where they've used this very
method. I must admit to being surprised - everyone else seems to use the
correct foam.

--
*We are born naked, wet, and hungry. Then things get worse.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <483537EF.A19D7C3F@hotmail.com>,
Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

Wrap some aluminium foil around a small piece of expanded polystyrene,
then you can just push the chips into the sandwich and keep the lot in
a plastic box. The foil shorts all the pins together so there can be
no potential difference between any.

Aluminium foil is a BAD idea. In the event that there is any appreciable
charge on a given pin, pushing it into aluminium foil will discharge it
*quickly* and the resulting current may kill it.

I've just received some kits from Jaycar where they've used this very
method. I must admit to being surprised - everyone else seems to use the
correct foam.

--
*We are born naked, wet, and hungry. Then things get worse.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Gareth Magennis]

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4fa3679717dave@davenoise.co.uk...

In article <483537EF.A19D7C3F@hotmail.com>,
Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:
Wrap some aluminium foil around a small piece of expanded polystyrene,
then you can just push the chips into the sandwich and keep the lot in
a plastic box. The foil shorts all the pins together so there can be
no potential difference between any.

Aluminium foil is a BAD idea. In the event that there is any appreciable
charge on a given pin, pushing it into aluminium foil will discharge it
*quickly* and the resulting current may kill it.

I've just received some kits from Jaycar where they've used this very
method. I must admit to being surprised - everyone else seems to use the
correct foam.

Are there any Data to show the actual risk involved using this method? I
accept that best practice is always best, but what do we know about the
reality of the situation?
Don't forget we are discussing the storage of small numbers of IC's in
somebodys workshop.



Gareth.

 

[Gareth Magennis]

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4fa3679717dave@davenoise.co.uk...

In article <483537EF.A19D7C3F@hotmail.com>,
Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:
Wrap some aluminium foil around a small piece of expanded polystyrene,
then you can just push the chips into the sandwich and keep the lot in
a plastic box. The foil shorts all the pins together so there can be
no potential difference between any.

Aluminium foil is a BAD idea. In the event that there is any appreciable
charge on a given pin, pushing it into aluminium foil will discharge it
*quickly* and the resulting current may kill it.

I've just received some kits from Jaycar where they've used this very
method. I must admit to being surprised - everyone else seems to use the
correct foam.

Are there any Data to show the actual risk involved using this method? I
accept that best practice is always best, but what do we know about the
reality of the situation?
Don't forget we are discussing the storage of small numbers of IC's in
somebodys workshop.



Gareth.