Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[N_Cook]

NoSp <none@none.none> wrote in message news:483348a5$1@news.broadpark.no...

On 20-05-08 22:01, Andy Cuffe wrote:
On Mon, 19 May 2008 02:28:05 +0200, NoSp <none@none.none> wrote:

Unfortunately the white tape extends beyond the metal frame, so if I
shouldn't remove it what do I do?

You can remove the white tape, but you have to be very careful not to
damage the LCD driver chips and ribbon cables under the tape. These
are the cables that are glued to the LCD glass itself. If one of
these connections is damaged, the LCD will be useless.

I see. So the white tape (which at some sections extends over the metal
frame) doesn't actually have any functionality at all, performance-wise,
but is there just to keep things in place and as an extra protection?

I guess I can cut through the tape with a sharp knife, so I can remove
the metal frame from the LCD panel.
The white tape at the top covers over the edges so I can't really see
what's underneath, but this is where there are some thin, flat ribbon
cables which go to the actual LCD?
What would be the best way to go about removing the white tape so as to
be able to unclip the metal frame from it?


Some LCDs have back lights that are meant to be replaced and just
slide out, but most are not designed to be replaced. It can be done,
but it's difficult. Be sure to work in a clean dust free area since
any dust that gets under the LCD will be visible.

By "dust free" I assume you're not referring to a so-called "Clean
room", which I currently don't have access to ;-)
From what I understand the LCD panel consists of several layers, which
when the metal frame is removed won't keep them in place any longer,
right?
So at that stage I assume it's important to keep the stack of layers
horizontal on the table I'm working at.
If I don't shift the layers around I shouldn't risk getting any dust in
between them either, should I?

Sorry about all the questions, but hopefully I'll understand enough to
get it right the first time.
Thanks.

Generally I warm such tape with a hot air gun set on the lowest setting, but
I've not ever explored such area of a laptop screen.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[N_Cook]

NoSp <none@none.none> wrote in message news:483348a5$1@news.broadpark.no...

On 20-05-08 22:01, Andy Cuffe wrote:
On Mon, 19 May 2008 02:28:05 +0200, NoSp <none@none.none> wrote:

Unfortunately the white tape extends beyond the metal frame, so if I
shouldn't remove it what do I do?

You can remove the white tape, but you have to be very careful not to
damage the LCD driver chips and ribbon cables under the tape. These
are the cables that are glued to the LCD glass itself. If one of
these connections is damaged, the LCD will be useless.

I see. So the white tape (which at some sections extends over the metal
frame) doesn't actually have any functionality at all, performance-wise,
but is there just to keep things in place and as an extra protection?

I guess I can cut through the tape with a sharp knife, so I can remove
the metal frame from the LCD panel.
The white tape at the top covers over the edges so I can't really see
what's underneath, but this is where there are some thin, flat ribbon
cables which go to the actual LCD?
What would be the best way to go about removing the white tape so as to
be able to unclip the metal frame from it?


Some LCDs have back lights that are meant to be replaced and just
slide out, but most are not designed to be replaced. It can be done,
but it's difficult. Be sure to work in a clean dust free area since
any dust that gets under the LCD will be visible.

By "dust free" I assume you're not referring to a so-called "Clean
room", which I currently don't have access to ;-)
From what I understand the LCD panel consists of several layers, which
when the metal frame is removed won't keep them in place any longer,
right?
So at that stage I assume it's important to keep the stack of layers
horizontal on the table I'm working at.
If I don't shift the layers around I shouldn't risk getting any dust in
between them either, should I?

Sorry about all the questions, but hopefully I'll understand enough to
get it right the first time.
Thanks.

Generally I warm such tape with a hot air gun set on the lowest setting, but
I've not ever explored such area of a laptop screen.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Gareth Magennis]

"Senin" <senin@inbox.com> wrote in message
news:c69e4436-bf8d-4d0f-bfa2-21d016c6b79d@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

My housekeeper accidentally deleted all the messages (including my 2
year old daughter's) from my Uniden 900 MHz 378 series telephone
answering machine. Any possibible way of getting those messages back?

Well, it has been shown recently that RAM chips can be read after removing
them from a switched off computer, and the data retrieved. This is usually
done by cooling the chips with liquid nitrogen before removal. The memory
holds the data long enough to be read off the chips, despite current
beliefs/data about how long memory chips keep their data. (often a few
minutes after the machine has shut down - much longer if cooled down).

This has quite serious implications as far as computer security is
concerned, as the RAM often contains copies of any data that was last used,
and is often not encryted, despite any encryption used in the machine.
(This is an oversight of some encryption systems I believe)

In your case it may be possible to remove the memory chips and copy them,
then you would need some sort of undelete software, and you may be able to
get your messages back. But somehow I don't think you are going to try
that.




Gareth.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article
<e4fe7d1b-3c7c-4d68-9a57-18103527780f@j22g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>,
<schnide@btinternet.com> wrote:

I have a Nokia 6500 Classic mobile/cellular phone. It has a mini USB
connector to plug in both the charger or accessories such as a stereo
headset. The supplied Nokia headset works fine, but is simply not a
very good design.

I tried eBay for several different third party connectors and have now
tried four, including eventually Nokia's own AD-55 mini USB adapter
and none of them work. When you plug headphones into them, they all
say "Connected device takes too much power - please disconnect".

Only guessing, but USB spec doesn't include analogue signals - just digits
and DC. So again I'd guess the Nokia unit includes electronics.

--
*Cover me. I'm changing lanes.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article
<e4fe7d1b-3c7c-4d68-9a57-18103527780f@j22g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>,
<schnide@btinternet.com> wrote:

I have a Nokia 6500 Classic mobile/cellular phone. It has a mini USB
connector to plug in both the charger or accessories such as a stereo
headset. The supplied Nokia headset works fine, but is simply not a
very good design.

I tried eBay for several different third party connectors and have now
tried four, including eventually Nokia's own AD-55 mini USB adapter
and none of them work. When you plug headphones into them, they all
say "Connected device takes too much power - please disconnect".

Only guessing, but USB spec doesn't include analogue signals - just digits
and DC. So again I'd guess the Nokia unit includes electronics.

--
*Cover me. I'm changing lanes.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[bz]

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in
news:ePudnVcYbLCuL67VnZ2dnUVZ_u-dnZ2d@earthlink.com:

Allodoxaphobia wrote:

On Tue, 20 May 2008 19:03:57 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
James Sweet wrote:

Is that legal?

Mine is on the wall in the garage, I've also seen them in closets,
never seen one in the attic.

Most of the ones I've seen are on the side of a breaker box or
fuse
box. Some mounted right to the box, while others are on a 4" square
plate and mounted to a square steel box for fire safety.

Every one I've ever encountered in the last 40 years around Colorado
have been mounted on a rafter in the attic.

But, I'm also sure that the hodge-podge of electrical codes across the
U.S.A. could dictate that it be mounted almost ANYWHERE.


Most of the houses I've seen with attics were finished space, and the
others usually didn't have an attic. This was in Ohio, and Florida.
Homes with no attic or basement are common in Florida. In SW Ohio the
building inspectors wanted to see any power transformer, for doorbells
alarm systems or anything else near the main power disconnect.

Three houses I have owned in Baton Rouge, Louisiana all had the doorbell
transformer in the unfinished attic.





--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+spr@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in
news:ePudnVcYbLCuL67VnZ2dnUVZ_u-dnZ2d@earthlink.com:

Allodoxaphobia wrote:

On Tue, 20 May 2008 19:03:57 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
James Sweet wrote:

Is that legal?

Mine is on the wall in the garage, I've also seen them in closets,
never seen one in the attic.

Most of the ones I've seen are on the side of a breaker box or
fuse
box. Some mounted right to the box, while others are on a 4" square
plate and mounted to a square steel box for fire safety.

Every one I've ever encountered in the last 40 years around Colorado
have been mounted on a rafter in the attic.

But, I'm also sure that the hodge-podge of electrical codes across the
U.S.A. could dictate that it be mounted almost ANYWHERE.


Most of the houses I've seen with attics were finished space, and the
others usually didn't have an attic. This was in Ohio, and Florida.
Homes with no attic or basement are common in Florida. In SW Ohio the
building inspectors wanted to see any power transformer, for doorbells
alarm systems or anything else near the main power disconnect.

Three houses I have owned in Baton Rouge, Louisiana all had the doorbell
transformer in the unfinished attic.





--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+spr@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in
news:l-2dneNt27wtc67VnZ2dnUVZ8sijnZ2d@bt.com:

"Senin" <senin@inbox.com> wrote in message
news:c69e4436-bf8d-4d0f-bfa2-21d016c6b79d@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
My housekeeper accidentally deleted all the messages (including my 2
year old daughter's) from my Uniden 900 MHz 378 series telephone
answering machine. Any possibible way of getting those messages back?





Well, it has been shown recently that RAM chips can be read after
removing them from a switched off computer, and the data retrieved.
This is usually done by cooling the chips with liquid nitrogen before
removal. The memory holds the data long enough to be read off the
chips, despite current beliefs/data about how long memory chips keep
their data. (often a few minutes after the machine has shut down - much
longer if cooled down).

This has quite serious implications as far as computer security is
concerned, as the RAM often contains copies of any data that was last
used, and is often not encryted, despite any encryption used in the
machine. (This is an oversight of some encryption systems I believe)

Not so much an oversight as a necessity. In order to VIEW or [in most
cases]manipulate encrypted data, it MUST be decrypted.
That is done [usually] in RAM.

The 'oversight' is that most operating systems don't clear that data when
normal shutdown is down.

In the case of an abnormal shutdown, the hardware would have to be
specially designed to wipe itself.

Considering the number of bugs that have been found in hardware and
software, I suspect that the chances of a 'completely foolproof' protection
system are very small.
*** a small thermite charge triggered by ANY abnormal shutdown WOULD
probably ensure security but would also ensure very short computer
lifetime.

In your case it may be possible to remove the memory chips and copy
them, then you would need some sort of undelete software, and you may be
able to get your messages back. But somehow I don't think you are going
to try that.

I suspect that by the time the erasure was discovered, it was much too late
for such.





--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+spr@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in
news:l-2dneNt27wtc67VnZ2dnUVZ8sijnZ2d@bt.com:

"Senin" <senin@inbox.com> wrote in message
news:c69e4436-bf8d-4d0f-bfa2-21d016c6b79d@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
My housekeeper accidentally deleted all the messages (including my 2
year old daughter's) from my Uniden 900 MHz 378 series telephone
answering machine. Any possibible way of getting those messages back?





Well, it has been shown recently that RAM chips can be read after
removing them from a switched off computer, and the data retrieved.
This is usually done by cooling the chips with liquid nitrogen before
removal. The memory holds the data long enough to be read off the
chips, despite current beliefs/data about how long memory chips keep
their data. (often a few minutes after the machine has shut down - much
longer if cooled down).

This has quite serious implications as far as computer security is
concerned, as the RAM often contains copies of any data that was last
used, and is often not encryted, despite any encryption used in the
machine. (This is an oversight of some encryption systems I believe)

Not so much an oversight as a necessity. In order to VIEW or [in most
cases]manipulate encrypted data, it MUST be decrypted.
That is done [usually] in RAM.

The 'oversight' is that most operating systems don't clear that data when
normal shutdown is down.

In the case of an abnormal shutdown, the hardware would have to be
specially designed to wipe itself.

Considering the number of bugs that have been found in hardware and
software, I suspect that the chances of a 'completely foolproof' protection
system are very small.
*** a small thermite charge triggered by ANY abnormal shutdown WOULD
probably ensure security but would also ensure very short computer
lifetime.

In your case it may be possible to remove the memory chips and copy
them, then you would need some sort of undelete software, and you may be
able to get your messages back. But somehow I don't think you are going
to try that.

I suspect that by the time the erasure was discovered, it was much too late
for such.





--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+spr@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[GregS]

In article <H%JYj.28633$ie5.3749@newsfe05.ams2>, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

"GregS" <zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com> wrote in message
news:g0uvro$ee2$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...
In article <p7ednbcf8_qQTK_VnZ2dnUVZ_ozinZ2d@kans.com>, Brian
standingwaterDELETETHIS@networksplus.net> wrote:
clifto wrote:
Brian wrote:
clifto wrote:
I buy through local alarm companies. Call two or three and at least
one
will
sell over the counter.
Just got 'em (via eBay) -- "Rhino" brand; about US$16 each, including
shipping. Look good, and hopefully will work well! Best retail price
I
saw, plus shipping, was about $32 each.

I'll check next time. My last set was local and in between those prices.


Good! There's only one batteries-only dealer here in town, and it is
about a 15 mile round trip. So add ~$3 for gas ...

Installed the new batteries yesterday. As warned, the lugs were
smaller, so I had to crimp-down one connector slightly to get a tighter
fit.

Also, the last connection was shocking! Actually sparking -- one huge
bolt, and I'm glad I wasn't in its way. There's a good-sized capacitor
internally to the UPS, and my guess is that the batteries needed to
recharge it upon connection.

The UPS then worked normally! So yes, as the early responders answered,
it was simply dead batteries. Will recycle the old ones, and keep the
UPS plugged-in continuously so that hopefully these new batteries will
last a long time.

I just replaced the batteries in a non responding SMART UPS. What a stupid
UPS.
The batteies were for a 1500 watt unit, heavy.

greg

I don't think I'm quite following that ...

What, that a smart ups can't say the battery is ka putt.

greg

 

[Sky]

What I always do is memorise all the information that I'm likely to be asked
in the exam....works a treat!



<secretexamsuccess@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:a343077a-eb5a-4327-8abe-92696c6ad179@u36g2000prf.googlegroups.com...

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[bz]

Wiebe Cazemier <wiebe@halfgaar.net> wrote in
news:1b384$48341d0e$d4cc82be$20634@cache5.tilbu1.nb.home.nl:

Hi,

Because all else failed, I want to go to the extreme in blowing out the
cathode-G1 short, from which my Eizo T766 19" CRT suffers. After the
capacitor discharge, the short has gone from 1K ohm, to 0.0 Ohm, and I
can make the internal wiring of the tube red hot by running 3A of
current through it...

The repair FAQ mentions using a Tesla coil. The nearest thing to a Tesla
coil I used, was the 750V G2 of another (scrap) monitor, but that can
only be sustained for a fraction of a second before the monitor shuts
off; nowhere near the 10 seconds the repair FAQ states.

My question is this: can I use the anode and ground wire of another
monitor to act as my Tesla coil? How do I prevent breakdown of air
and/or vacuum around the CRT pins and such (I don't want arcing in the
wrong place). And, very importantly, can the flyback sustain such an
arc? I've seen videos on the internet in which they use the anode of a
monitor to create a sustainable arc between anode and probably ground,
but I don't know if it needs to be modified for that (because an arc is
basically a short).

I think you will need a LARGEr value capacitor, charged up with plenty of
coulombs of electrons.

Keep your wires thick and short.

With the dead short, you don't need high voltage, you need high current but
only for a short time.
You want to try to blow out the weakest point in the circuit and to hope it
is the recently created short.

It is too late for the Tesla coil. That might have been useful when there
was not a dead short.

















--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[N_Cook]

Michael <Temprock@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:975723c7-da8d-4c18-a988-f0863662f24d@b1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

One button on an otherwise descent cassette/radio/CD Player is broken
(first it wouldn't stay "down" to Play cassette, now it's jammed
down).

Called Sony with what I thought was a simple question: give me a local
(South Jersey) Sony authorized repair place.

No such thing according to Sony--either ship it to them in Texas for
repair or refurbish (either way at a cost of close to $100 including
shipping) or buy the new model.

I hope this is the right group to ask: is the (mechanical?) repair of
one button on a cassette player feasible? Approx cost? And how the
heck do I find a local facility where I can walk in with the box, show
them the broken play button problem problem, get a price and then get
it repaired at a reasonable cost?

Or must I buy the "new" model?

The rest of the device and its other functions work fine. This
happened after only 2 1/2 years of average/moderate use.

Thanks for any guidance or even empathy!!!


Michael

Cherry Hill, New Jersey (near Philly)

Some cassette repair fixes including jammed button symptom on my file
http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/repair3.htm

--
General electronic repairs, most things repaired, other than TVs and PCs
http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/repairs.htm

Diverse Devices, Southampton, England

 

[gareth magennis]

"Michael" <Temprock@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:975723c7-da8d-4c18-a988-f0863662f24d@b1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

One button on an otherwise descent cassette/radio/CD Player is broken
(first it wouldn't stay "down" to Play cassette, now it's jammed
down).

Called Sony with what I thought was a simple question: give me a local
(South Jersey) Sony authorized repair place.

No such thing according to Sony--either ship it to them in Texas for
repair or refurbish (either way at a cost of close to $100 including
shipping) or buy the new model.

I hope this is the right group to ask: is the (mechanical?) repair of
one button on a cassette player feasible? Approx cost? And how the
heck do I find a local facility where I can walk in with the box, show
them the broken play button problem problem, get a price and then get
it repaired at a reasonable cost?

Or must I buy the "new" model?

The rest of the device and its other functions work fine. This
happened after only 2 1/2 years of average/moderate use.

Thanks for any guidance or even empathy!!!


Michael

Cherry Hill, New Jersey (near Philly)

No empathy I'm afraid, these things are disposable.

3 questions:

1. How much do you think it's worth, as a used item, if it was working?

2. What is the most you would pay to have it repaired?

3. If you were in the business of repairing these things, how much would you
need to charge for (at least) the hours labour it would take and still make
a little profit? Bearing in mind you have to pay for premises, insurance,
staff if you have any, tax, phone bills, internet fees, bad debts, punters
who don't bother collecting their Sony Cassette Boomboxes after you have
just spent an hour on the phone sourcing parts and an hour fixing the thing,
because it wasn't worth fixing in the first place ........



Wake up, this is the modern world.



Gareth.

 

[gareth magennis]

"Michael" <Temprock@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:975723c7-da8d-4c18-a988-f0863662f24d@b1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

One button on an otherwise descent cassette/radio/CD Player is broken
(first it wouldn't stay "down" to Play cassette, now it's jammed
down).

Called Sony with what I thought was a simple question: give me a local
(South Jersey) Sony authorized repair place.

No such thing according to Sony--either ship it to them in Texas for
repair or refurbish (either way at a cost of close to $100 including
shipping) or buy the new model.

I hope this is the right group to ask: is the (mechanical?) repair of
one button on a cassette player feasible? Approx cost? And how the
heck do I find a local facility where I can walk in with the box, show
them the broken play button problem problem, get a price and then get
it repaired at a reasonable cost?

Or must I buy the "new" model?

The rest of the device and its other functions work fine. This
happened after only 2 1/2 years of average/moderate use.

Thanks for any guidance or even empathy!!!


Michael

Cherry Hill, New Jersey (near Philly)

No empathy I'm afraid, these things are disposable.

3 questions:

1. How much do you think it's worth, as a used item, if it was working?

2. What is the most you would pay to have it repaired?

3. If you were in the business of repairing these things, how much would you
need to charge for (at least) the hours labour it would take and still make
a little profit? Bearing in mind you have to pay for premises, insurance,
staff if you have any, tax, phone bills, internet fees, bad debts, punters
who don't bother collecting their Sony Cassette Boomboxes after you have
just spent an hour on the phone sourcing parts and an hour fixing the thing,
because it wasn't worth fixing in the first place ........



Wake up, this is the modern world.



Gareth.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"GregS" <zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com> wrote in message
news:g116f4$hk$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...

In article <H%JYj.28633$ie5.3749@newsfe05.ams2>, "Arfa Daily"
arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

"GregS" <zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com> wrote in message
news:g0uvro$ee2$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...
In article <p7ednbcf8_qQTK_VnZ2dnUVZ_ozinZ2d@kans.com>, Brian
standingwaterDELETETHIS@networksplus.net> wrote:
clifto wrote:
Brian wrote:
clifto wrote:
I buy through local alarm companies. Call two or three and at least
one
will
sell over the counter.
Just got 'em (via eBay) -- "Rhino" brand; about US$16 each, including
shipping. Look good, and hopefully will work well! Best retail
price
I
saw, plus shipping, was about $32 each.

I'll check next time. My last set was local and in between those
prices.


Good! There's only one batteries-only dealer here in town, and it is
about a 15 mile round trip. So add ~$3 for gas ...

Installed the new batteries yesterday. As warned, the lugs were
smaller, so I had to crimp-down one connector slightly to get a tighter
fit.

Also, the last connection was shocking! Actually sparking -- one huge
bolt, and I'm glad I wasn't in its way. There's a good-sized capacitor
internally to the UPS, and my guess is that the batteries needed to
recharge it upon connection.

The UPS then worked normally! So yes, as the early responders answered,
it was simply dead batteries. Will recycle the old ones, and keep the
UPS plugged-in continuously so that hopefully these new batteries will
last a long time.

I just replaced the batteries in a non responding SMART UPS. What a
stupid
UPS.
The batteies were for a 1500 watt unit, heavy.

greg

I don't think I'm quite following that ...

What, that a smart ups can't say the battery is ka putt.

greg

Well my Smart-UPS 700 can tell me that the batteries are kaput. Third row of
lights left to right. Bottom one is the "Battery Kaput" light ... In fact
the diagnostic lights tell me a lot about what it's doing, so I wouldn't
describe that particular model as "stupid".

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"GregS" <zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com> wrote in message
news:g116f4$hk$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...

In article <H%JYj.28633$ie5.3749@newsfe05.ams2>, "Arfa Daily"
arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

"GregS" <zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com> wrote in message
news:g0uvro$ee2$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...
In article <p7ednbcf8_qQTK_VnZ2dnUVZ_ozinZ2d@kans.com>, Brian
standingwaterDELETETHIS@networksplus.net> wrote:
clifto wrote:
Brian wrote:
clifto wrote:
I buy through local alarm companies. Call two or three and at least
one
will
sell over the counter.
Just got 'em (via eBay) -- "Rhino" brand; about US$16 each, including
shipping. Look good, and hopefully will work well! Best retail
price
I
saw, plus shipping, was about $32 each.

I'll check next time. My last set was local and in between those
prices.


Good! There's only one batteries-only dealer here in town, and it is
about a 15 mile round trip. So add ~$3 for gas ...

Installed the new batteries yesterday. As warned, the lugs were
smaller, so I had to crimp-down one connector slightly to get a tighter
fit.

Also, the last connection was shocking! Actually sparking -- one huge
bolt, and I'm glad I wasn't in its way. There's a good-sized capacitor
internally to the UPS, and my guess is that the batteries needed to
recharge it upon connection.

The UPS then worked normally! So yes, as the early responders answered,
it was simply dead batteries. Will recycle the old ones, and keep the
UPS plugged-in continuously so that hopefully these new batteries will
last a long time.

I just replaced the batteries in a non responding SMART UPS. What a
stupid
UPS.
The batteies were for a 1500 watt unit, heavy.

greg

I don't think I'm quite following that ...

What, that a smart ups can't say the battery is ka putt.

greg

Well my Smart-UPS 700 can tell me that the batteries are kaput. Third row of
lights left to right. Bottom one is the "Battery Kaput" light ... In fact
the diagnostic lights tell me a lot about what it's doing, so I wouldn't
describe that particular model as "stupid".

Arfa

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"jango2" <crow_slapper@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:44e8f201-b91f-4882-8ca3-bd0d3d4e6b7c@z16g2000prn.googlegroups.com...

FREE TIBET !

Just how do you propose I do that. I don't own Tibet or an extremely larger
army. Free them yourself or complain to China.

 

[dBc]

Greetings Bob..

Regarding:
"In general, chips pretty much work, or don't. It's rare to get the
sort of fault that you're describing from any kind of semiconductor
failure. My money would be on caps."

While I generally agree with this above rationale, if the
semiconductor or IC naturally runs hot or very hot, there can be
situations where the heat sink compound has dried out and the solder
is getting so hot as to make intermittent electrical contact with the
PC board or wiring. In such a case, applying fresh heat sink compound,
re-mounting the component and sucking up the old solder from the pins
and re-soldering with fresh solder connections can lead to a return of
reliable operation. I've had experience with this very same situation
where the output IC was electrically just fine, but it was getting too
hot not being adequately heat sunk. Result was cold solder connections
to the PC board due to repeated excessive heating then later cooling.

Have you tested your Sony on VHF reception vs. UHF reception? Are the
symptoms the same with either band? What happens if you feed the set
video from a DVD drive or alternate source, is the video then fine or
still distorted? By doing these things, you can end up eliminating a
great deal of the circuitry involved in the set. This also tends to
isolate what areas could be of concern. The slick part of this is you
can do this without removing a single screw.

My reasoning, I have a little Sony KV-1380R sitting right in front of
me. This set a few years ago started losing UHF reception which ended
up resulting in the 'snow' type display. The first thing I did is move
over to VHF to see if the same symptoms existed with intermittent lose
of video reception - it didn't. I then fed it a signal from an old VHS
recorder. In fact, I used the tuner in the VHS recorder - again, all
was well and reliable since it used either channel 3 or 4 (VHF). This
pointed to the UHF tuner before I removed one screw from the cabinet.
Sure enough, one of the multi-pins extruding from the metal enclosed
UHF tuner through the main PC board had become electrically
disconnected with heat. Kind of looked like a volcano with a smaller
lead sticking up through the middle of the volcano. Under
magnification, you could see the black ring around the lead sticking
through. I took my thumb nail and nudged the lead and it freely moved.
I sucked up the old solder, re-soldered that pin, cleaned up the
residual flux, re-assembled the set and it's been working fine for 7
years now on VHF or UHF.

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor




"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:sWJYj.28632$ie5.16660@newsfe05.ams2...
|
| "Robert Swinney" <judybob@tx.rr.com> wrote in message
| news:4832d9e5$0$20189$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
| > My 3 or 4 year-old 27 in. Sony went belly up. I've replaced it
with a
| > digi-ready Samsung and am
| > thinking
| > about repairing the Sony and relegating it to the bedroom. Sony
symptoms
| > seem to indicate the video
| > processor is at fault; ragged, torn but identifyable B&W pix;
| > picture-in-picture is OK and in color.
| > In my opinion, these symptoms are consistent with a failed video
| > processor. Does anyone have
| > experience replacing the video processor in a Sony TV ? Is it a
SM chip,
| > etc, etc. Please advise,
| > Thanx.
| >
| > Bob Swinney
| >
|
| In general, chips pretty much work, or don't. It's rare to get the
sort of
| fault that you're describing from any kind of semiconductor failure.
My
| money would be on caps.
|
| Arfa
|
|

 

[dBc]

Greetings Bob..

Regarding:
"In general, chips pretty much work, or don't. It's rare to get the
sort of fault that you're describing from any kind of semiconductor
failure. My money would be on caps."

While I generally agree with this above rationale, if the
semiconductor or IC naturally runs hot or very hot, there can be
situations where the heat sink compound has dried out and the solder
is getting so hot as to make intermittent electrical contact with the
PC board or wiring. In such a case, applying fresh heat sink compound,
re-mounting the component and sucking up the old solder from the pins
and re-soldering with fresh solder connections can lead to a return of
reliable operation. I've had experience with this very same situation
where the output IC was electrically just fine, but it was getting too
hot not being adequately heat sunk. Result was cold solder connections
to the PC board due to repeated excessive heating then later cooling.

Have you tested your Sony on VHF reception vs. UHF reception? Are the
symptoms the same with either band? What happens if you feed the set
video from a DVD drive or alternate source, is the video then fine or
still distorted? By doing these things, you can end up eliminating a
great deal of the circuitry involved in the set. This also tends to
isolate what areas could be of concern. The slick part of this is you
can do this without removing a single screw.

My reasoning, I have a little Sony KV-1380R sitting right in front of
me. This set a few years ago started losing UHF reception which ended
up resulting in the 'snow' type display. The first thing I did is move
over to VHF to see if the same symptoms existed with intermittent lose
of video reception - it didn't. I then fed it a signal from an old VHS
recorder. In fact, I used the tuner in the VHS recorder - again, all
was well and reliable since it used either channel 3 or 4 (VHF). This
pointed to the UHF tuner before I removed one screw from the cabinet.
Sure enough, one of the multi-pins extruding from the metal enclosed
UHF tuner through the main PC board had become electrically
disconnected with heat. Kind of looked like a volcano with a smaller
lead sticking up through the middle of the volcano. Under
magnification, you could see the black ring around the lead sticking
through. I took my thumb nail and nudged the lead and it freely moved.
I sucked up the old solder, re-soldered that pin, cleaned up the
residual flux, re-assembled the set and it's been working fine for 7
years now on VHF or UHF.

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor




"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:sWJYj.28632$ie5.16660@newsfe05.ams2...
|
| "Robert Swinney" <judybob@tx.rr.com> wrote in message
| news:4832d9e5$0$20189$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
| > My 3 or 4 year-old 27 in. Sony went belly up. I've replaced it
with a
| > digi-ready Samsung and am
| > thinking
| > about repairing the Sony and relegating it to the bedroom. Sony
symptoms
| > seem to indicate the video
| > processor is at fault; ragged, torn but identifyable B&W pix;
| > picture-in-picture is OK and in color.
| > In my opinion, these symptoms are consistent with a failed video
| > processor. Does anyone have
| > experience replacing the video processor in a Sony TV ? Is it a
SM chip,
| > etc, etc. Please advise,
| > Thanx.
| >
| > Bob Swinney
| >
|
| In general, chips pretty much work, or don't. It's rare to get the
sort of
| fault that you're describing from any kind of semiconductor failure.
My
| money would be on caps.
|
| Arfa
|
|