Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[charles]

In article <MTsXj.145740$Cj7.35522@pd7urf2no>,
Don Kelly <dhky@shaw.ca> wrote:

In the early '50's there were two other units around- the poundal (1/g
pounds force) or a mass called a slug (g pounds mass). Learning
mechanics with these units (don't use them together)is worse than
working in the stone, furlong, fortnight set of units. The poundal was
introduced in 1879 as part of the "english set of units" (Wikipedia is
sometimes useful).

I certainly remember the poundal.

The various old english measures: chain, rod, quarter, peck, etc, were, of
course, very useful to teach children arithmetic since they all came with
different bases.

and of course you can measure viscosity in Acres per year - if you want to.

--
From KT24 - in "Leafy Surrey"

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.11

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article
<ee259986-a06e-40fb-b75d-c91048ced1e0@27g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>,
CharlesBlackstone <charlesblackstone1@hotmail.com> wrote:

Hi, I bought a variable voltage variable amp power supply to use
charging my RC batteries:
http://shop.vendio.com/evan2002/item/857080628/index.html

I don't really understand it much though. First, should I never turn
it on if there is no load?

I will use it with either a nicd/nimh charger or a lipoly charger. In
either case, should I turn the voltage to 12 volts, and the amps to
the maximum (10), then turn on the charger? Should the charger be
hooked up and turned on with a battery connected to be charged, before
I turn on the power supply?

Thanks very much in advance for any guidance.

Seems to be a very expensive way to buy a battery charger. A bench power
supply like this is designed to provide clean stable DC for electronics
use - which you pay dearly for. Nor will it monitor the battery condition
and adjust the charge to suit.

--
*Some people are only alive because it is illegal to kill.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

"CharlesBlackstone" <charlesblackstone1@hotmail.com>
wrote in message
news:ee259986-a06e-40fb-b75d-c91048ced1e0@27g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

Hi, I bought a variable voltage variable amp power supply to use
charging my RC batteries:
http://shop.vendio.com/evan2002/item/857080628/index.html

I don't really understand it much though. First, should I never turn
it on if there is no load?

I will use it with either a nicd/nimh charger or a lipoly charger. In
either case, should I turn the voltage to 12 volts, and the amps to
the maximum (10), then turn on the charger? Should the charger be
hooked up and turned on with a battery connected to be charged,
before I turn on the power supply?

Thanks very much in advance for any guidance.

ARRRGGGHHH! I hope this is a joke!

The cells you're trying to recharge require constant-current charging, not
constant-voltage. And the bench supply you claim to have purchased is not
only wrong for that purpose, but total over-kill. If you connect your
batteries to it, you're likely to destroy them -- not to mention having to
clean up a major mess, perhaps even put out a fire.

You need chargers specifically designed for the batteries you own.

-----

I just re-read what you wrote. If you have the chargers for these batteries,
they should come with their own power supplies. You don't buy a bench supply
to power them.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

"CharlesBlackstone" <charlesblackstone1@hotmail.com>
wrote in message
news:ee259986-a06e-40fb-b75d-c91048ced1e0@27g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

Hi, I bought a variable voltage variable amp power supply to use
charging my RC batteries:
http://shop.vendio.com/evan2002/item/857080628/index.html

I don't really understand it much though. First, should I never turn
it on if there is no load?

I will use it with either a nicd/nimh charger or a lipoly charger. In
either case, should I turn the voltage to 12 volts, and the amps to
the maximum (10), then turn on the charger? Should the charger be
hooked up and turned on with a battery connected to be charged,
before I turn on the power supply?

Thanks very much in advance for any guidance.

ARRRGGGHHH! I hope this is a joke!

The cells you're trying to recharge require constant-current charging, not
constant-voltage. And the bench supply you claim to have purchased is not
only wrong for that purpose, but total over-kill. If you connect your
batteries to it, you're likely to destroy them -- not to mention having to
clean up a major mess, perhaps even put out a fire.

You need chargers specifically designed for the batteries you own.

-----

I just re-read what you wrote. If you have the chargers for these batteries,
they should come with their own power supplies. You don't buy a bench supply
to power them.

 

In alt.engineering.electrical Anthony Matonak <anthonym40@nothing.like.socal.rr.com> wrote:
| charles wrote:
|> krw <krw@att.bizzzzzzzzzz> wrote:
|>> bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu says...
|>>> It is necessary to distinguish between mass and force but they are both
|>>> measured in pounds in the english system.
|>
|>> The "English" system uses the "stone" as the measurement of mass.
|>> The pound ('lb') is the unit of *FORCE*.
|>
|> The 'Stone' is a unit of mass, not "The unit of mass"
|>
|> All the engineering I ever learned in the British (Imperial) system used
|> pounds.
|
| I always thought the British pound was a unit of currency.

That's why I never wanted to carry around the British currency. It can be
quite a chore to carry 50 pounds in your pocket

--
|WARNING: Due to extreme spam, googlegroups.com is blocked. Due to ignorance |
| by the abuse department, bellsouth.net is blocked. If you post to |
| Usenet from these places, find another Usenet provider ASAP. |
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (email for humans: first name in lower case at ipal.net) |

 

In alt.engineering.electrical Anthony Matonak <anthonym40@nothing.like.socal.rr.com> wrote:
| charles wrote:
|> krw <krw@att.bizzzzzzzzzz> wrote:
|>> bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu says...
|>>> It is necessary to distinguish between mass and force but they are both
|>>> measured in pounds in the english system.
|>
|>> The "English" system uses the "stone" as the measurement of mass.
|>> The pound ('lb') is the unit of *FORCE*.
|>
|> The 'Stone' is a unit of mass, not "The unit of mass"
|>
|> All the engineering I ever learned in the British (Imperial) system used
|> pounds.
|
| I always thought the British pound was a unit of currency.

That's why I never wanted to carry around the British currency. It can be
quite a chore to carry 50 pounds in your pocket

--
|WARNING: Due to extreme spam, googlegroups.com is blocked. Due to ignorance |
| by the abuse department, bellsouth.net is blocked. If you post to |
| Usenet from these places, find another Usenet provider ASAP. |
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (email for humans: first name in lower case at ipal.net) |

 

[William Sommerwerck]

Okay. This is finally making some sense.

You'd set the power supply to a voltage in the range acceptable for the
charger (say, 12V).

The current setting on the power supply is probably a limit -- the supply
won't put out more than that (just in case you short it). So you'd set it to
a bit more than the maximum you expect the charger to draw.

It's no more complicated than that.

 

[bz]

CharlesBlackstone <charlesblackstone1@hotmail.com> wrote in news:17fdbbc6-
094d-43c6-8636-04ad4453611e@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com:

Thanks for the replies.

I bought this power supply for $300, because I have other uses for it,
such as in my laboratory at work. But in some applications, I will use
it to its max to charger very large battery packs for very large
planes. It is what other people who do what I do buy.

RC battery chargers do not come with power supplies.

This is the charger:

http://www.batteryjunction.com/temilibachwl.html

Thanks for any helpful replies.

Your supply seems to have two kinds of limits.
Voltage and current.

This means that you can regulate the 'open circuit voltage'. You would want
to make sure that never exceeds your battery voltage by more than a few
percent.

The current regulation means you can regulate the 'short circuit current'.
You would want to make sure this never exceeds the safe charging current
for your battery (which should be something on the order of 10% of the
discharge current).

You should look up the charging conditions for your particular battery,
with nothing connected to the supply, set the open circuit voltage.
Then, with an amp meter (perhaps the supply has one built in), short the
output and set the current to less than the max charging current.

NOW, you can connect your battery to be charged.

Since you have a 'dumb charger', you will need to monitor the charging to
make sure you don't overcharge the battery.
If your voltage and current settings are correct, that shouldn't happen,
but .... it is better to be safe than sorry.

What you do NOT want to do with a TRUE current supply (one that could go to
any voltage) would be to open circuit it, because it would go to infinite
voltage.
What you do NOT want to do with a TRUE voltage supply (one that could go to
any current) would be to short the output because the current would be
infinite.
A supply that regulates BOTH, however, is limited in both and thus kind of
the best of both worlds.




--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"CharlesBlackstone" <charlesblackstone1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:17fdbbc6-094d-43c6-8636-04ad4453611e@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...

Thanks for the replies.

I bought this power supply for $300, because I have other uses for it,
such as in my laboratory at work. But in some applications, I will use
it to its max to charger very large battery packs for very large
planes. It is what other people who do what I do buy.

RC battery chargers do not come with power supplies.

This is the charger:

http://www.batteryjunction.com/temilibachwl.html

Thanks for any helpful replies.

From the website you listed

Input voltage: DC 11V~15V. The working electric current is less than 6A
when it is charged

I would have just bought a 10A 12vdc transformer and hooked it up to that
charger or I would have used a car battery charger hooked up to your
electronic charger. The bench supply is the wrong tool for this although it
should work fine. It is just like using a military tank to go buy groceries,
sure it works but it is huge, costs 100 times more and has all sorts of
things you don`t need to get the job done.

Mike

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"CharlesBlackstone" <charlesblackstone1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:17fdbbc6-094d-43c6-8636-04ad4453611e@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...

Thanks for the replies.

I bought this power supply for $300, because I have other uses for it,
such as in my laboratory at work. But in some applications, I will use
it to its max to charger very large battery packs for very large
planes. It is what other people who do what I do buy.

RC battery chargers do not come with power supplies.

This is the charger:

http://www.batteryjunction.com/temilibachwl.html

Thanks for any helpful replies.

From the website you listed

Input voltage: DC 11V~15V. The working electric current is less than 6A
when it is charged

I would have just bought a 10A 12vdc transformer and hooked it up to that
charger or I would have used a car battery charger hooked up to your
electronic charger. The bench supply is the wrong tool for this although it
should work fine. It is just like using a military tank to go buy groceries,
sure it works but it is huge, costs 100 times more and has all sorts of
things you don`t need to get the job done.

Mike

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <Xns9AA1BC2E27A24WQAHBGMXSZHVspammote@130.39.198.139>,
bz <bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote:

This means that you can regulate the 'open circuit voltage'. You would
want to make sure that never exceeds your battery voltage by more than
a few percent.

IMHO the charge voltage is pretty irrelevant. It's the current that
matters.

--
*I took an IQ test and the results were negative.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <Xns9AA1BC2E27A24WQAHBGMXSZHVspammote@130.39.198.139>,
bz <bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote:

This means that you can regulate the 'open circuit voltage'. You would
want to make sure that never exceeds your battery voltage by more than
a few percent.

IMHO the charge voltage is pretty irrelevant. It's the current that
matters.

--
*I took an IQ test and the results were negative.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[charles]

In article <482fb24f$0$87070$815e3792@news.qwest.net>,
Morris Dovey <mrdovey@iedu.com> wrote:

Well, if it's true that "A pint's a pound the world around" then you
don't need to carry it all in your pocket. :-D

that saying must be some years old.

A pint's now about three pounds ;-(

--
From KT24 - in "Leafy Surrey"

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.11

 

[charles]

In article <482fb24f$0$87070$815e3792@news.qwest.net>,
Morris Dovey <mrdovey@iedu.com> wrote:

Well, if it's true that "A pint's a pound the world around" then you
don't need to carry it all in your pocket. :-D

that saying must be some years old.

A pint's now about three pounds ;-(

--
From KT24 - in "Leafy Surrey"

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.11

 

[bz]

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in
news:4fa14a16d7dave@davenoise.co.uk:

In article <Xns9AA1BC2E27A24WQAHBGMXSZHVspammote@130.39.198.139>,
bz <bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote:
This means that you can regulate the 'open circuit voltage'. You would
want to make sure that never exceeds your battery voltage by more than
a few percent.

IMHO the charge voltage is pretty irrelevant. It's the current that
matters.

I agree that the current IS the most relevant parameter.

The voltage is relevant if there is a cell that is failing or if you want
to safely charge different kinds of batteries and avoid overcharging.

There is no harm to limiting the voltage.






--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in
news:4fa14a16d7dave@davenoise.co.uk:

In article <Xns9AA1BC2E27A24WQAHBGMXSZHVspammote@130.39.198.139>,
bz <bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote:
This means that you can regulate the 'open circuit voltage'. You would
want to make sure that never exceeds your battery voltage by more than
a few percent.

IMHO the charge voltage is pretty irrelevant. It's the current that
matters.

I agree that the current IS the most relevant parameter.

The voltage is relevant if there is a cell that is failing or if you want
to safely charge different kinds of batteries and avoid overcharging.

There is no harm to limiting the voltage.






--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[Arfa Daily]

<verdons@tpgi.com.au> wrote in message
news:03fd7b9a-f5e3-4f44-b8ba-f38ace9d0ed2@h1g2000prh.googlegroups.com...

I am repairing a TEAC CT M805SR tv from the kerbside...dry joints
fixed but now it looks like the EEPROM is corrupt. Anyone have a dump
of IC104 from this set?
Thanks
Russell

I think that there are many dumps on eserviceinfo.com. (A colleague tells me
he regularly gets them from there). Might be worth taking a look there for a
start maybe ?

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Jack00" <SPal508596@aol.com> wrote in message
news:7c52f788-3187-450a-8615-5be93ceb7c37@24g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...

The cd lens on this unit trys to focus on the disc but there is no
beam from the lens. How do I check the lens?

Thanks

The laser in a CD operates at near-infrared, so emits little visible light.
With the lens area shaded, and looking across the top of it at an oblique
angle, you should just be able to see a little 'sparkling' red light in
there, whilst the focus search is taking place. If you do see the light, and
the lens is clean, but the disc either never spins up, or spins endlessly
without ever reading the TOC, or stops with a "NO DISC" message, then it's
very likely that the laser is faulty. The only 'real' test for a defective
laser is to try a replacement. If you cannot see any red light at all in the
lens, then it's not burning, and the commonest causes of that are either a
defective laser diode within the optical block, or a bad cable to the
optical block. The flat white flexiprint type has a habit of fracturing
across one or more tracks, right by the blue reinforcing strip at one end or
the other. Types using conventional wires tend to fracture inside the wire's
plastic sleeve, close to where it is crimped into the connector pin in the
plug body.

Although the output power of a CD laser is in the 'eye safe' category, I
still would not recommend looking straight down into the lens ...

Arfa

 

[bz]

NoSp <none@none.none> wrote in news:4830c997@news.broadpark.no:

My laptop's display backlight has been fading since I bought it a few
years ago, so I think it's about time I exchange the CCFL backlight with
a new one. The LCD in question is a Samsung LTN152W6-L01.

I've been trying to follow the instructions at sites such as
lcdparts.net, but there aren't any instructions for my particular LCD.
I've never disassembled an LCD before, so I'm a little worried that I'll
do something wrong.
Here are a couple of photos I've taken of my LCD:

http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=samsung1sr9.jpg
http://img88.imageshack.us/my.php?image=samsung2gc1.jpg

There's a warning at the top saying I shouldn't touch the white tape.
Does this mean the white tape shouldn't be *removed*?

That 'white tape' appears to contain multiple conductors and possibly
active elements that drive the LCD.
Any damage to the 'white tape' could cause parts of the screen to be
'dead'.

I've read somewhere that if you apply pressure unevenly to the LCD panel
you'll get lines and other abnomalities in the display (I assume the
white tape has been applied for even pressure all across the LCD panel).

I doubt that your assumption is correct.

The problem is that it seems (at least according to what I've read
online) that I need to remove the metal frame around the LCD panel in
order to expose the CCFL backlight -is this correct?
Unfortunately the white tape extends beyond the metal frame, so if I
shouldn't remove it what do I do?

The second photo shows the metal bracket removed. It's the only one I
could remove without removing the white tape as well, and the backlight
is found underneath. Is there a neat way to remove the CCFL without
removing the whole frame?

I can't tell from the pictures whether that silver band across the
'bottom' of the screen is removable or not.

Good luck.



--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+spr@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

NoSp <none@none.none> wrote in news:4830c997@news.broadpark.no:

My laptop's display backlight has been fading since I bought it a few
years ago, so I think it's about time I exchange the CCFL backlight with
a new one. The LCD in question is a Samsung LTN152W6-L01.

I've been trying to follow the instructions at sites such as
lcdparts.net, but there aren't any instructions for my particular LCD.
I've never disassembled an LCD before, so I'm a little worried that I'll
do something wrong.
Here are a couple of photos I've taken of my LCD:

http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=samsung1sr9.jpg
http://img88.imageshack.us/my.php?image=samsung2gc1.jpg

There's a warning at the top saying I shouldn't touch the white tape.
Does this mean the white tape shouldn't be *removed*?

That 'white tape' appears to contain multiple conductors and possibly
active elements that drive the LCD.
Any damage to the 'white tape' could cause parts of the screen to be
'dead'.

I've read somewhere that if you apply pressure unevenly to the LCD panel
you'll get lines and other abnomalities in the display (I assume the
white tape has been applied for even pressure all across the LCD panel).

I doubt that your assumption is correct.

The problem is that it seems (at least according to what I've read
online) that I need to remove the metal frame around the LCD panel in
order to expose the CCFL backlight -is this correct?
Unfortunately the white tape extends beyond the metal frame, so if I
shouldn't remove it what do I do?

The second photo shows the metal bracket removed. It's the only one I
could remove without removing the white tape as well, and the backlight
is found underneath. Is there a neat way to remove the CCFL without
removing the whole frame?

I can't tell from the pictures whether that silver band across the
'bottom' of the screen is removable or not.

Good luck.



--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+spr@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap