Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

In article <3373-4823CFD0-216@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net>, cuhulin@webtv.net wrote:
Yesterday, I bought two of them in the sporting goods department at the
Wal Mart store.One of them is an Ozark Trail, LED Hanging Tent Light.It
has 24 LED lights arranged in a circle, runs on four AA batteries which
came with the light.And it is BRIGHT! Because I wear eyeglasses, when I
turn the light on and hold the light in my hand in just such a way,
there is a sort of a ''holography'' image of the 24 LED lights floating
in front of the real LED lights.COOL! I like that.
I bought one at K-Mart. Its a very good item.

greg

The other LED light I bought at the Wal Mart store is an Energizer
Weather Ready Light.3 IN 1 LED Flashlight.100 hour run time.360 area
light with 3 LEDs.Nightlight with amber LED.(four AA baterries included)
I think it is a COOL light too.
cuhulin
 
In article <3373-4823CFD0-216@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net>, cuhulin@webtv.net wrote:
Yesterday, I bought two of them in the sporting goods department at the
Wal Mart store.One of them is an Ozark Trail, LED Hanging Tent Light.It
has 24 LED lights arranged in a circle, runs on four AA batteries which
came with the light.And it is BRIGHT! Because I wear eyeglasses, when I
turn the light on and hold the light in my hand in just such a way,
there is a sort of a ''holography'' image of the 24 LED lights floating
in front of the real LED lights.COOL! I like that.
I bought one at K-Mart. Its a very good item.

greg

The other LED light I bought at the Wal Mart store is an Energizer
Weather Ready Light.3 IN 1 LED Flashlight.100 hour run time.360 area
light with 3 LEDs.Nightlight with amber LED.(four AA baterries included)
I think it is a COOL light too.
cuhulin
 
? "Thomas Tornblom" <thomas@Hax.SE> ?????? ??? ??????
news:x04p97adpr.fsf@Hax.SE...
Residential power in Sweden is 400V 3 phase, main fuses normally 25A
or lower.

Room outlets are wired with one phase, neutral and ground to get 230V.

There is a smallish transformer station in the neighborhood which
probably powers two entire blocks. I would guess somewhere around 20-30
houses.
Absolutely the same here, in Greece we are using only Schuko sockets, from
german Schutzkontakt, security contact. There is a larger substation, maybe
2-3 for a city (in Iraklion we have 3, 180,000 residents) that steps down
from the transmission voltage, 150 kV down to primary distribution voltage,
15 kV that is the distributed with cables buried in earth. Our local power
station has units with 15 kV (older) and newer with 6.6 kV alternators, all
is stepped up to 150 kV even for the ~15 km to Iraklion. In capitals, like
Athens, electricity comes at 400 kV, is stepped down to 150 kV for secondary
transmission, again goes to the areas af the city with underground cables,
stepped down to 15 kV locally, and then distributed again (the main
generation facilities are in Kozani, West Macedonia, and they burn brown
coal. Typical size of a unit is 300 MW, voltage 21 kV and current 10 kA
which is stepped up to 400 kV, 400 A line current for transmission to Athens
and Thessaloniki).



--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
hordad AT otenet DOT gr
 
? "Thomas Tornblom" <thomas@Hax.SE> ?????? ??? ??????
news:x04p97adpr.fsf@Hax.SE...
Residential power in Sweden is 400V 3 phase, main fuses normally 25A
or lower.

Room outlets are wired with one phase, neutral and ground to get 230V.

There is a smallish transformer station in the neighborhood which
probably powers two entire blocks. I would guess somewhere around 20-30
houses.
Absolutely the same here, in Greece we are using only Schuko sockets, from
german Schutzkontakt, security contact. There is a larger substation, maybe
2-3 for a city (in Iraklion we have 3, 180,000 residents) that steps down
from the transmission voltage, 150 kV down to primary distribution voltage,
15 kV that is the distributed with cables buried in earth. Our local power
station has units with 15 kV (older) and newer with 6.6 kV alternators, all
is stepped up to 150 kV even for the ~15 km to Iraklion. In capitals, like
Athens, electricity comes at 400 kV, is stepped down to 150 kV for secondary
transmission, again goes to the areas af the city with underground cables,
stepped down to 15 kV locally, and then distributed again (the main
generation facilities are in Kozani, West Macedonia, and they burn brown
coal. Typical size of a unit is 300 MW, voltage 21 kV and current 10 kA
which is stepped up to 400 kV, 400 A line current for transmission to Athens
and Thessaloniki).



--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
hordad AT otenet DOT gr
 
In article <48246bdc$0$657$5a6aecb4@news.aaisp.net.uk>,
Andrew Gabriel <andrew@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote:
In article <x04p97adpr.fsf@hax.se>,
Thomas Tornblom <thomas@Hax.SE> writes:
Residential power in Sweden is 400V 3 phase, main fuses normally 25A
or lower.

Room outlets are wired with one phase, neutral and ground to get 230V.

There is a smallish transformer station in the neighborhood which
probably powers two entire blocks. I would guess somewhere around 20-30
houses.

Similar in UK.

In most European countries, there's a single phase current limit,
above which you have to take a 3-phase supply. In the UK, that's
100A, so it's not very common to have a 3-phase supply although
you can ask for one if you want a 3-phase supply. In some other
European countries, the single phase limit is as low as 20A, so
just about everyone has a 3-phase supply.

Residential substation transformers (11kV down to 230/400) are
usually 1MVA, feeding a number of streets. A substation may have
more than one transformer in some cases (although they usually
only start out with one). Obviously, smaller transformers are
used where there aren't so many houses, and these are sometimes
pole mounted if the wiring is overhead.
or, as in the case of the transformer that feeds my house, pole mounted in
field with the output cables going underground immediately.

--
From KT24 - in "Leafy Surrey"

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.11
 
In article <48246bdc$0$657$5a6aecb4@news.aaisp.net.uk>,
Andrew Gabriel <andrew@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote:
In article <x04p97adpr.fsf@hax.se>,
Thomas Tornblom <thomas@Hax.SE> writes:
Residential power in Sweden is 400V 3 phase, main fuses normally 25A
or lower.

Room outlets are wired with one phase, neutral and ground to get 230V.

There is a smallish transformer station in the neighborhood which
probably powers two entire blocks. I would guess somewhere around 20-30
houses.

Similar in UK.

In most European countries, there's a single phase current limit,
above which you have to take a 3-phase supply. In the UK, that's
100A, so it's not very common to have a 3-phase supply although
you can ask for one if you want a 3-phase supply. In some other
European countries, the single phase limit is as low as 20A, so
just about everyone has a 3-phase supply.

Residential substation transformers (11kV down to 230/400) are
usually 1MVA, feeding a number of streets. A substation may have
more than one transformer in some cases (although they usually
only start out with one). Obviously, smaller transformers are
used where there aren't so many houses, and these are sometimes
pole mounted if the wiring is overhead.
or, as in the case of the transformer that feeds my house, pole mounted in
field with the output cables going underground immediately.

--
From KT24 - in "Leafy Surrey"

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.11
 
In alt.engineering.electrical Andrew Gabriel <andrew@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote:
| In article <WMGTj.5083$ch1.2983@trndny09>,
| "James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> writes:
|>
|> It's not 110V, it's 240V, we simply split it with a grounded center tap
|> which gives 120V between each side and neutral, or 240V between the sides..
|
| It's the regulation at 120V which people notice.
| If you want to call it a 240V supply, then you
| need to call EU supplies 400V or 415V. That's
| equally misleading.

The effect of loading and how it affects voltage depends on how well balanced
the TWO 120 volts phases are. If they are in balance, then the effect of the
loading on the voltage works as if you were considering the voltage at 240 volts.

If you get a three phase supply, and keep it balanced with the single phase
line to neutral loads, then the voltage regulation is going to be just like you
had loaded it with line-to-line loads, 208 volts in North America and 400 volts
in Europe.

If your neighborhood transformer is three phase, even if your home gets only
one phase of it (at just 230 volts), you still get advantage because other
homes will be distributed over other phases to keep it in balance.

But if you are comparing a single phase system, North American 120/240 with
three wires, vs. European 230 with two wires, it works out to be about the
same. The difference is we pay more for the extra wire, but we have a lower
line to ground shock risk (which isn't really much of an issue anymore with
improvements in safety in various ways such as GFI/RCD protection, better
rules on installations, etc).

So if you moved from Europe where you had 400/230 volts three phase in your
home, and came to North American and discovered we really had 480/277 volts
three phase, would that trouble you (assuming all appliances were designed
for that)?

--
|WARNING: Due to extreme spam, I no longer see any articles originating from |
| Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers |
| you will need to find a different place to post on Usenet. |
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (email for humans: first name in lower case at ipal.net) |
 
In alt.engineering.electrical Andrew Gabriel <andrew@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote:
| In article <WMGTj.5083$ch1.2983@trndny09>,
| "James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> writes:
|>
|> It's not 110V, it's 240V, we simply split it with a grounded center tap
|> which gives 120V between each side and neutral, or 240V between the sides..
|
| It's the regulation at 120V which people notice.
| If you want to call it a 240V supply, then you
| need to call EU supplies 400V or 415V. That's
| equally misleading.

The effect of loading and how it affects voltage depends on how well balanced
the TWO 120 volts phases are. If they are in balance, then the effect of the
loading on the voltage works as if you were considering the voltage at 240 volts.

If you get a three phase supply, and keep it balanced with the single phase
line to neutral loads, then the voltage regulation is going to be just like you
had loaded it with line-to-line loads, 208 volts in North America and 400 volts
in Europe.

If your neighborhood transformer is three phase, even if your home gets only
one phase of it (at just 230 volts), you still get advantage because other
homes will be distributed over other phases to keep it in balance.

But if you are comparing a single phase system, North American 120/240 with
three wires, vs. European 230 with two wires, it works out to be about the
same. The difference is we pay more for the extra wire, but we have a lower
line to ground shock risk (which isn't really much of an issue anymore with
improvements in safety in various ways such as GFI/RCD protection, better
rules on installations, etc).

So if you moved from Europe where you had 400/230 volts three phase in your
home, and came to North American and discovered we really had 480/277 volts
three phase, would that trouble you (assuming all appliances were designed
for that)?

--
|WARNING: Due to extreme spam, I no longer see any articles originating from |
| Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers |
| you will need to find a different place to post on Usenet. |
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (email for humans: first name in lower case at ipal.net) |
 
Yesterday, I bought two of them in the sporting goods department at the
Wal Mart store.One of them is an Ozark Trail, LED Hanging Tent Light.It
has 24 LED lights arranged in a circle, runs on four AA batteries which
came with the light.And it is BRIGHT! Because I wear eyeglasses, when I
turn the light on and hold the light in my hand in just such a way,
there is a sort of a ''holography'' image of the 24 LED lights floating
in front of the real LED lights.COOL! I like that.

I bought one at K-Mart. Its a very good item.
That's interesting. Ozark Trail is Wal-Mart's brand for these sorts of
sporting goods.
 
James Sweet <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in
news:fk6Vj.243$lQ1.229@trnddc02:

Brian wrote:
I went to use a Smart-UPS 700 (true sine wave) after letting it sit
for a couple of years, and nothing happened -- plugging it in yielded
no LEDs, sounds, etc. Pressing the power on, off, circuit breaker,
and reset did nothing. The two 120V receptacles (wall plugs) I tried
are good.

I disassembled the unit, and found conductivity through the power
wires, the circuit breaker, and leads to the mainboard. The two 30A
32V fuses to the batteries are fine, but, as expected the batteries
are totally dead after sitting for a couple of years.

I didn't see any obvious damage to the UPS at all -- no hot parts or
connections. There was continuity, separately, through the two
transformer windings. I jiggled all the connectors and reassembled
the unit, and there was no change, even after leaving it plugged in
for a half-hour.

What else could cause absolutely no response from this UPS? Anyone
else had this experience with an APC UPS, and did you overcome it?
Seems like too nice hardware to just trash (after recycling the
batteries).

Thanks in advance.

-Brian


The battery is dead. For whatever reason, this causes a lot of UPS's
to behave exactly as described. If it sat for several years, the
battery will not take a charge, it needs to be replaced.
Lead-acid batteries sulfate and then will not take a charge.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 
<cuhulin@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:25213-4824F5AF-352@storefull-3254.bay.webtv.net...
I plug in my land line phone and I phone somebody.How can I record our
phone conversation and play it back so I can listen to what my voice
sounds like on the phone? Of course I know I would need to first ask the
person I phone to agree with our recorded phone onversation, I am pretty
sure the person would agree.
cuhulin
Use a telephone pickup coil. Lots of places used to do them over here. I'm
sure Rat Shack or whoever probably do them over there. It's just a coil with
a lot of turns on it, and a little rubber sucker. You just experiment and
find the best place on the phone body or handset for it. Probably not as
good these days as when phones had dirty great hybrid transformers and such
in them, but I think there is still enough radiation and enough wound
components in there for it to at least work. Some answer machines - some of
the better Panasonic ones from a few years ago, for instance - also had a
conversation recording facility.

Arfa
 
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:epfVj.2093$KQ4.1653@newsfe10.ams2...
cuhulin@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:25213-4824F5AF-352@storefull-3254.bay.webtv.net...

I plug in my land line phone and I phone somebody.How can
I record our phone conversation and play it back so I can listen
to what my voice sounds like on the phone?

Use a telephone pickup coil. Lots of places used to do them over here.
RadioShack also has an adapter that that goes between the handset and the
telephone. A second cable plugs into the recorder's mic input. It's
more-expensive than a coil, but a lot more convenient. The only reauirement
is that the handset have a modular cord (one with connectors that unplug).
 
Try BatteryPlex for replacements. The guy who runs it answers the phone, and
will make sure you get what you need. Highly recommended.
 
? "Andrew Gabriel" <andrew@cucumber.demon.co.uk> ?????? ??? ??????
news:48246da4$0$657$5a6aecb4@news.aaisp.net.uk...
In article <WMGTj.5083$ch1.2983@trndny09>,
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> writes:

It's not 110V, it's 240V, we simply split it with a grounded center tap
which gives 120V between each side and neutral, or 240V between the
sides..

It's the regulation at 120V which people notice.
If you want to call it a 240V supply, then you
need to call EU supplies 400V or 415V. That's
equally misleading.

There's no transformer per house, except rural applications. Generally
5-10
houses are on each transformer, sometimes more. The problem with long
runs
is that the voltage fluctuates substantially with large loads such as
central air conditioning. Standard North American residential service is
200
Amps 240V, I gather this is quite a bit larger than typical European
domestic stuff, so stretching it over 1km distance would require
prohibitively large cables or suffer from wide voltage swings. Makes more
sense to run 7200V down the street and locate a smallish transformer near
every half dozen houses.

The transformers are small in comparison, which gives poor
regulation in comparison (and as I said before, it's the
regulation at 120V which is the primary concern -- regulation
of 240V across 2 hots doesn't matter much for typical US 240V
loads).
The regulation, at least in Europe, is done at 150/15 kV substations and at
the HV side of the transformers, thus at 150 kV. Typical current for 2 x 25
MVA transformers is 150 A, 150 kV and of course secondary at 15 kV, 1500 A.
The regulation is done automatically with tap changers, live. The local
transformers at your neighborhood are fixed tap, 15 kV (they intend to
change everything to 20 kV).



--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
hordad AT otenet DOT gr
 
? "Andrew Gabriel" <andrew@cucumber.demon.co.uk> ?????? ??? ??????
news:48246da4$0$657$5a6aecb4@news.aaisp.net.uk...
In article <WMGTj.5083$ch1.2983@trndny09>,
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> writes:

It's not 110V, it's 240V, we simply split it with a grounded center tap
which gives 120V between each side and neutral, or 240V between the
sides..

It's the regulation at 120V which people notice.
If you want to call it a 240V supply, then you
need to call EU supplies 400V or 415V. That's
equally misleading.

There's no transformer per house, except rural applications. Generally
5-10
houses are on each transformer, sometimes more. The problem with long
runs
is that the voltage fluctuates substantially with large loads such as
central air conditioning. Standard North American residential service is
200
Amps 240V, I gather this is quite a bit larger than typical European
domestic stuff, so stretching it over 1km distance would require
prohibitively large cables or suffer from wide voltage swings. Makes more
sense to run 7200V down the street and locate a smallish transformer near
every half dozen houses.

The transformers are small in comparison, which gives poor
regulation in comparison (and as I said before, it's the
regulation at 120V which is the primary concern -- regulation
of 240V across 2 hots doesn't matter much for typical US 240V
loads).
The regulation, at least in Europe, is done at 150/15 kV substations and at
the HV side of the transformers, thus at 150 kV. Typical current for 2 x 25
MVA transformers is 150 A, 150 kV and of course secondary at 15 kV, 1500 A.
The regulation is done automatically with tap changers, live. The local
transformers at your neighborhood are fixed tap, 15 kV (they intend to
change everything to 20 kV).



--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
hordad AT otenet DOT gr
 
Brian <standingwaterDELETETHIS@networksplus.net> wrote in
news:C4WdnU4GYrfKBbjVnZ2dnUVZ_o_inZ2d@kans.com:

James Sweet wrote:


The battery is dead. For whatever reason, this causes a lot of UPS's to
behave exactly as described. If it sat for several years, the battery
will not take a charge, it needs to be replaced.

Thanks for the responses.

Really? Absolutely nothing -- no attempts at all to recharge, not even
flicker of the lights or a hum of the transformer? Dead as a
doornail ...

-Brian
when a LeadAcid battery's plates are sulfated,the battery will not accept a
charge. It's like they have been insulated from the electrolyte.
there's a lot on the 'Net about sulfation,just Google it.

FWIW,Wal-Mart will accept the old batteries for recycling. see the auto
department.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 
Brian <standingwaterDELETETHIS@networksplus.net> wrote in
news:C4WdnU4GYrfKBbjVnZ2dnUVZ_o_inZ2d@kans.com:

James Sweet wrote:


The battery is dead. For whatever reason, this causes a lot of UPS's to
behave exactly as described. If it sat for several years, the battery
will not take a charge, it needs to be replaced.

Thanks for the responses.

Really? Absolutely nothing -- no attempts at all to recharge, not even
flicker of the lights or a hum of the transformer? Dead as a
doornail ...

-Brian
when a LeadAcid battery's plates are sulfated,the battery will not accept a
charge. It's like they have been insulated from the electrolyte.
there's a lot on the 'Net about sulfation,just Google it.

FWIW,Wal-Mart will accept the old batteries for recycling. see the auto
department.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 
In alt.engineering.electrical Andrew Gabriel <andrew@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote:

| I'm referring to the transformer regulation (and also the LV
| supply cable voltage drop) response to load changes. E.g. if
| I switch on my 10kW shower, that's a 0.1% change against the
| max load of my 1MVA substation transformer and therefore
| makes no perceivable difference to the voltage in my house.
| If I were to try that on a US 50kVA transformer, that load
| is going to trigger a change of 20% of the transformer
| regulation, which is much more significant and would
| certainly be visible as a brightness change in light bulbs.

What is the available fault current in these situations?

--
|WARNING: Due to extreme spam, googlegroups.com is blocked. Due to ignorance |
| by the abuse department, bellsouth.net is blocked. If you post to |
| Usenet from these places, find another Usenet provider ASAP. |
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (email for humans: first name in lower case at ipal.net) |
 
In article <KridndAr1fGpnLvVnZ2dnUVZ_jSdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

So they have developed 100% efficient transformers?
Yep, their called Super Conducting Transformers, and they have been
around the LABS, for about 15 years now. Only one BIG problem with them.
They only work at 20 Degrees Kevin or lower in temperature.
 
In alt.engineering.electrical Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

| The central air kicks on without my lights dimming, and I am in North
| Central Florica.

I bet it's on its own branch circuit, too.

--
|WARNING: Due to extreme spam, googlegroups.com is blocked. Due to ignorance |
| by the abuse department, bellsouth.net is blocked. If you post to |
| Usenet from these places, find another Usenet provider ASAP. |
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (email for humans: first name in lower case at ipal.net) |
 

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