Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[ROITHNER LASERTECHNIK]

yes, Sam, I understand your needs behind, but sorry I cannot help, so far!
What nice and tricky "high end" application could be created with this
complex optical part - outside a DVD player, of course. Are you sure, Sir,
that this part is yet not blacklisted from the DOD? Actually as a kind of
Laserschurkendevices? Read his lips...!!!

beamit
Andreas Roithner

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> schrieb im Newsbeitrag
news:6wzlr65hnd.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu...

Even a schematic of the area of the optical pickup from the JVC service
manual for the XL-FZ158BK would be helpful. That would at least identify
the pinout of the hologram laser IC.

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above
is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included
in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.


Sam Goldwasser <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> writes:

(Part of this was posted Yesterday to sci.electronics.repair only.)

I'm looking for a datasheet with as much detail as possible on the
optical pickup in the JVC XL-FZ158BK. It's either from Philips or
Sony. The type of pickup is called a "hologram laser" by some
manufacturers as it uses a Holographic Optical Element (HOE) to produce
the 3 beams of the "three beam pickup" and to distribute the return
beams to the focusing and tracking photodiodes. It has 10 pins in a
flat package with the hologram part in the clear cover. What I'm
mainly interested in are the details of the optical arrangement to
identify
the photodiode locations. While conventional optical pickups using
discrete optics generally have a separate PD array with easily
identified
individual photodiodes, these hologram lasers may have the photodiodes
distributed in almost any pattern. And on this one, it's far from
obvous
even where they are, let alone the specific function of each.

It has a normal edge-emitting laser diode with its beam reflected by a
really tiny prism. But I can't visually identify either the monitor
photodiode, or the phodiiodes of the focusing/tracking/RF signal PD
array.

Here is a poor photo:

http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/Diode%20and%20photo-diodes.jpg

13,14,15,16 are pads for the laser diode.

B is the angled mirror face.

A is the flat top of the prism. It is not known what, if anything,
is below this.

Pointers to any Philips or Sony combined laser/photodiode array optical
pickup datasheets would be desirable if this specific one doesn't ring
a bell.

Any info appreciated.

Thanks!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/

 

[Tzortzakakis Dimitrios]

? "Deodiaus" <deodiaus@yahoo.com> ?????? ??? ??????
news:2f85e038-fd1b-4f6c-aa9d-f5327d7a823f@x41g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...

which will cost a bundle to
fix
or repair.
While doing a search on the web, I found the same model (really cheap)
but
wired for 280V, instead of the 230 V load that my wiring is supplies.
Now, I was thinking of buying the cheap 280V model and installing it
instead. Aside from rotating at a different speed and
maybe some power inefficiencies, are there any other drawbacks of
using the 280V model
instead?
Yes-it could be toast in a couple of seconds. While motors with brushes,

like the ones used in short duty appliances, like drills and blenters, will
rotate slower in lower voltages, without problems, Asynchronous motors
(brushless) will really smoke to death if used in voltages significantly
lower than nominal. Can't you find a generic pool motor, if you know the
horsepower, voltage (3 phase? line to line) and intake and outlet gauge? and
maybe rpm?

HTH,


--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
hordad AT otenet DOT gr

 

[Tzortzakakis Dimitrios]

Ď <phil-news-nospam@ipal.net> Ýăńářĺ óôď ěŢíőěá
news:fv5jcl2275i@news2.newsguy.com...

In alt.engineering.electrical Michael Kennedy
Mikek400@remthis.comcast.net> wrote:
|
| <phil-news-nospam@ipal.net> wrote in message
| news:fv2imt311fm@news4.newsguy.com...
|> In alt.engineering.electrical operator jay <none@none.none> wrote:
|> |
|> | "You" <you@shadow.orgs> wrote in message
|> | news:you-D96DBC.09080227042008@netnews.worldnet.att.net...
|> |> In article <fv1at5128ml@news3.newsguy.com>,
|> |> phil-news-nospam@ipal.net
|> |> wrote:
|> |
|> |>> There are two different flavors of 220/230/240 volts. Some places
|> |>> have a
|> |>> simple system with one wire hot and one wire grounded. Other
|> |>> places have
|> |>> a split system where the voltage is split in half to get
|> |>> 110/115/120 volts
|> |>> relative to ground, by adding a additional "middle" conductor that
|> |>> is the
|> |>> grounded one.
|> |
|> |> Sonny, you need to LEARN the difference between Ground and
|> |> Neutral......
|> |> before you spout any further BS.......
|> |
|> | What he wrote looks reasonable to me in terms of ground and neutral.
|> | Neutral is the grounded conductor where I live. He does not say to
|> | use a ground as a neutral, if that's what you're getting at. I can
|> | only guess that that may be what you're getting at, you haven't
really
|> | said.
|
|> He might be one of those "knows just enough to be really dangerous"
people
|> on the net. I didn't even mention "neutral". My intent was to explain
it
|> in a simpler way for someone to just understand the basic difference.
The
|> term "middle" was to convey a little more information than "neutral"
would
| <SNIP
|
| Well, I understood what he meant, but maybe I took it the wrong way.
When he
| said middle conudctor I was thinking the center lug on the transformer
which
| is grounded and used as the neutral.

That is what I meant when I said middle conductor. I intentionally
avoided
calling it neutral for the person I was responding to. I did quote it to
make it clear (but this apparently was not clear enough for at least one
person) for others that I was using some other term.

--
Nope. LV (low voltage)230-V in Europe is just sufficient for 1 km distance.

MV (medium voltage) 20 kV for 60 km. HV (high voltage) 150 kV for 220 km.
EHV 400kV for 500 km with stability issues. 110 volt is so low you need a
transformer outside each building....



--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
hordad AT otenet DOT gr

 

[Tzortzakakis Dimitrios]

? "Deodiaus" <deodiaus@yahoo.com> ?????? ??? ??????
news:2f85e038-fd1b-4f6c-aa9d-f5327d7a823f@x41g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...

which will cost a bundle to
fix
or repair.
While doing a search on the web, I found the same model (really cheap)
but
wired for 280V, instead of the 230 V load that my wiring is supplies.
Now, I was thinking of buying the cheap 280V model and installing it
instead. Aside from rotating at a different speed and
maybe some power inefficiencies, are there any other drawbacks of
using the 280V model
instead?
Yes-it could be toast in a couple of seconds. While motors with brushes,

like the ones used in short duty appliances, like drills and blenters, will
rotate slower in lower voltages, without problems, Asynchronous motors
(brushless) will really smoke to death if used in voltages significantly
lower than nominal. Can't you find a generic pool motor, if you know the
horsepower, voltage (3 phase? line to line) and intake and outlet gauge? and
maybe rpm?

HTH,


--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
hordad AT otenet DOT gr

 

[James Sweet]

--
Nope. LV (low voltage)230-V in Europe is just sufficient for 1 km
distance. MV (medium voltage) 20 kV for 60 km. HV (high voltage) 150 kV
for 220 km. EHV 400kV for 500 km with stability issues. 110 volt is so low
you need a transformer outside each building....



--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
hordad AT otenet DOT gr

Learn the system before you criticize it.

It's not 110V, it's 240V, we simply split it with a grounded center tap
which gives 120V between each side and neutral, or 240V between the sides..
There's no transformer per house, except rural applications. Generally 5-10
houses are on each transformer, sometimes more. The problem with long runs
is that the voltage fluctuates substantially with large loads such as
central air conditioning. Standard North American residential service is 200
Amps 240V, I gather this is quite a bit larger than typical European
domestic stuff, so stretching it over 1km distance would require
prohibitively large cables or suffer from wide voltage swings. Makes more
sense to run 7200V down the street and locate a smallish transformer near
every half dozen houses.

 

[James Sweet]

--
Nope. LV (low voltage)230-V in Europe is just sufficient for 1 km
distance. MV (medium voltage) 20 kV for 60 km. HV (high voltage) 150 kV
for 220 km. EHV 400kV for 500 km with stability issues. 110 volt is so low
you need a transformer outside each building....



--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
hordad AT otenet DOT gr

Learn the system before you criticize it.

It's not 110V, it's 240V, we simply split it with a grounded center tap
which gives 120V between each side and neutral, or 240V between the sides..
There's no transformer per house, except rural applications. Generally 5-10
houses are on each transformer, sometimes more. The problem with long runs
is that the voltage fluctuates substantially with large loads such as
central air conditioning. Standard North American residential service is 200
Amps 240V, I gather this is quite a bit larger than typical European
domestic stuff, so stretching it over 1km distance would require
prohibitively large cables or suffer from wide voltage swings. Makes more
sense to run 7200V down the street and locate a smallish transformer near
every half dozen houses.

 

[James Sweet]

"mike" <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:d7FTj.1442$Ve.1035@trnddc08...

rubenstein.martin@googlemail.com wrote:
Can I use 2 alkaline batteries (3V) in parallel with a (non-
rechargable) lithium cell (3V) as a back up without problem?

Thanks
Short answer is NO!
Since you give ZERO clues as to what size batteries, or what voltages
your unspecificied system can tolerate, or what
you consider a problem, you can't expect even an approximate answer.
But a careful person would still say, NO!
Take out the lithium cell.

--

Or isolate it with a diode.

 

[James Sweet]

"mike" <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:d7FTj.1442$Ve.1035@trnddc08...

rubenstein.martin@googlemail.com wrote:
Can I use 2 alkaline batteries (3V) in parallel with a (non-
rechargable) lithium cell (3V) as a back up without problem?

Thanks
Short answer is NO!
Since you give ZERO clues as to what size batteries, or what voltages
your unspecificied system can tolerate, or what
you consider a problem, you can't expect even an approximate answer.
But a careful person would still say, NO!
Take out the lithium cell.

--

Or isolate it with a diode.

 

[Skywise]

Sam Goldwasser <sam@minus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in
news:6wk5i9j61l.fsf@minus.seas.upenn.edu:

High end? Mayb mount 10,000 of them in a phased array.......

Phased array of visible radiation? hmmmmmmmm......

Brian
--
http://www.skywise711.com - Lasers, Seismology, Astronomy, Skepticism
Seismic FAQ: http://www.skywise711.com/SeismicFAQ/SeismicFAQ.html
Quake "predictions": http://www.skywise711.com/quakes/EQDB/index.html
Sed quis custodiet ipsos Custodes?

 

[Skywise]

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in news:582dnc_-
d_NkUYLVnZ2dnUVZ_sUAAAAA@earthlink.com:

Skywise wrote:

Sam Goldwasser <sam@minus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in
news:6wk5i9j61l.fsf@minus.seas.upenn.edu:

High end? Mayb mount 10,000 of them in a phased array.......

Phased array of visible radiation? hmmmmmmmm......


Sure. It's intended to replace the now obsolete mind control ray
generators, now that all the test subjects have started wearing aluminum
foil hats.

heheheh...but seriously, if it could be done, the possibilities
that would open up.....

Brian
--
http://www.skywise711.com - Lasers, Seismology, Astronomy, Skepticism
Seismic FAQ: http://www.skywise711.com/SeismicFAQ/SeismicFAQ.html
Quake "predictions": http://www.skywise711.com/quakes/EQDB/index.html
Sed quis custodiet ipsos Custodes?

 

[Tzortzakakis Dimitrios]

Ď "James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> Ýăńářĺ óôď ěŢíőěá
news:WMGTj.5083$ch1.2983@trndny09...

--
Nope. LV (low voltage)230-V in Europe is just sufficient for 1 km
distance. MV (medium voltage) 20 kV for 60 km. HV (high voltage) 150 kV
for 220 km. EHV 400kV for 500 km with stability issues. 110 volt is so
low you need a transformer outside each building....



--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
hordad AT otenet DOT gr



Learn the system before you criticize it.

It's not 110V, it's 240V, we simply split it with a grounded center tap
which gives 120V between each side and neutral, or 240V between the sides.
I'm perfectly aware of this, only in theory, though, as I've never been in

USA. I have worked, though in the decommisioned US base in Gournes, really
impressive your distribution systems
And in Europe we have 400 V (3 phase) line to line voltage. It's 230 line to
earth. Large motors and conditioners use 3 phase. Normal residence is 40 A
230 V single phase, or for energy hogs 400 V 3 X 40 A 3 phase..

There's no transformer per house, except rural applications. Generally
5-10 houses are on each transformer, sometimes more. The problem with long
runs is that the voltage fluctuates substantially with large loads such as
central air conditioning. Standard North American residential service is
200 Amps 240V, I gather this is quite a bit larger than typical European
domestic stuff, so stretching it over 1km distance would require
prohibitively large cables or suffer from wide voltage swings. Makes more
sense to run 7200V down the street and locate a smallish transformer near
every half dozen houses.

 

[Tzortzakakis Dimitrios]

Ď "James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> Ýăńářĺ óôď ěŢíőěá
news:WMGTj.5083$ch1.2983@trndny09...

--
Nope. LV (low voltage)230-V in Europe is just sufficient for 1 km
distance. MV (medium voltage) 20 kV for 60 km. HV (high voltage) 150 kV
for 220 km. EHV 400kV for 500 km with stability issues. 110 volt is so
low you need a transformer outside each building....



--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
hordad AT otenet DOT gr



Learn the system before you criticize it.

It's not 110V, it's 240V, we simply split it with a grounded center tap
which gives 120V between each side and neutral, or 240V between the sides.
I'm perfectly aware of this, only in theory, though, as I've never been in

USA. I have worked, though in the decommisioned US base in Gournes, really
impressive your distribution systems
And in Europe we have 400 V (3 phase) line to line voltage. It's 230 line to
earth. Large motors and conditioners use 3 phase. Normal residence is 40 A
230 V single phase, or for energy hogs 400 V 3 X 40 A 3 phase..

There's no transformer per house, except rural applications. Generally
5-10 houses are on each transformer, sometimes more. The problem with long
runs is that the voltage fluctuates substantially with large loads such as
central air conditioning. Standard North American residential service is
200 Amps 240V, I gather this is quite a bit larger than typical European
domestic stuff, so stretching it over 1km distance would require
prohibitively large cables or suffer from wide voltage swings. Makes more
sense to run 7200V down the street and locate a smallish transformer near
every half dozen houses.

 

[William R. Walsh]

Hi!

Yes. +5v. But only after all monitored voltages are within specification.
Are they?

Yes. All the other voltages are right where they should be and are stable
even when approaching the maximum rating of the PSU. I've never seen
anything like it before.

The power good line isn't completely dead--it has a fraction of a volt on it
all the time.

William

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article
<b6dbccef-08fe-40c3-9df8-485baa00f0dc@f63g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>,
<wm_walsh@hotmail.com> wrote:

I just need to confirm that +5VDC is what should appear on the power
good line. Googling around hasn't provided any good info on this.

http://www.helpwithpcs.com/courses/power-supply-basics-inc-pinouts.htm

--
*Reality is a crutch for people who can't handle drugs.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article
<b6dbccef-08fe-40c3-9df8-485baa00f0dc@f63g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>,
<wm_walsh@hotmail.com> wrote:

I just need to confirm that +5VDC is what should appear on the power
good line. Googling around hasn't provided any good info on this.

http://www.helpwithpcs.com/courses/power-supply-basics-inc-pinouts.htm

--
*Reality is a crutch for people who can't handle drugs.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Arfa Daily]

<aaronep@pacbell.net> wrote in message
news:e72a60a2-8357-4176-aa79-d5032250671b@b9g2000prh.googlegroups.com...

I have a Toshiba DVD player, model #SD-K760SU that is approx 1 year
old.
It is not playing properly in that scenes freeze on the screen, images
are distorted, and
Disks do not start from the beginning, but from other parts of the
disk.

Is this a situation where the lens needs cleaning, or might it be
another matter? If the lens does need cleaning, how can I access
the lens, OR, are there lens cleaning kits available?

Any suggestions on how to rectify the situation would be appreciated.

Aaron

For reasons quoted many times on here, DVD players do not generally suffer
from dirty lenses like CD players do. Exceptions to this are if the player
is located in a country or area that is very dry, or if the player is
located in a heavy smoking environment. Playability problems are most often
associated with a worn laser, although one year does seem a little on the
'young' side. That said, if the player gets heavy use, it is by no means
unheard of for a laser of just one year to be showing signs of wear, and of
course, none of this precludes the possibility of the laser being defective.
Other causes of playability problems include mechanical defects on the deck,
iffy spindle motors and 'marginal' caps on the power supply.

Do your freezes tend to occur late in the disc ? If so, that is usually a
good indicator of laser trouble, as it is much more difficult for it to read
layer two through layer one. A further test that you can run is to try
playing some full-length commercially pressed CDs. If these play without
problem, this pretty much verifies the mechanics, and is another pointer for
laser trouble.

By all means try cleaning the lens, but do not use a lens cleaner disc, as
this is unlikely to help, and can on some machines, cause physical damage to
the laser assembly. Access is usually available once the optical block has
been slid down its tracks towards the back of the deck, which brings it out
from under the disc clamp. The lens should be cleaned carefully with a
cotton bud (Q-Tip) moistened (not wet) with electronics grade isopropyl
alcohol. The lens suspension is fairly delicate, so don't be 'brutal' with
it, but by the same token, it is not so delicate that it is easily damaged.
Just use common sense. When the alcohol has evaporated, polish the lens with
a new clean and dry cotton bud.

The only symptom that you describe, which is a little 'odd' is that discs
seem to start from odd places rather than the beginning, although that might
just be being caused by the laser having trouble getting a good error-free
data stream off the disc.

Arfa

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:rK6Uj.367$JK1.79@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...

aaronep@pacbell.net> wrote in message
news:e72a60a2-8357-4176-aa79-d5032250671b@b9g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
I have a Toshiba DVD player, model #SD-K760SU that is approx 1 year
old.
It is not playing properly in that scenes freeze on the screen, images
are distorted, and
Disks do not start from the beginning, but from other parts of the
disk.

Is this a situation where the lens needs cleaning, or might it be
another matter? If the lens does need cleaning, how can I access
the lens, OR, are there lens cleaning kits available?

Any suggestions on how to rectify the situation would be appreciated.

Aaron

For reasons quoted many times on here, DVD players do not generally suffer
from dirty lenses like CD players do. Exceptions to this are if the player
is located in a country or area that is very dry, or if the player is
located in a heavy smoking environment. Playability problems are most
often associated with a worn laser, although one year does seem a little
on the 'young' side. That said, if the player gets heavy use, it is by no
means unheard of for a laser of just one year to be showing signs of wear,
and of course, none of this precludes the possibility of the laser being
defective. Other causes of playability problems include mechanical defects
on the deck, iffy spindle motors and 'marginal' caps on the power supply.

Do your freezes tend to occur late in the disc ? If so, that is usually a
good indicator of laser trouble, as it is much more difficult for it to
read layer two through layer one. A further test that you can run is to
try playing some full-length commercially pressed CDs. If these play
without problem, this pretty much verifies the mechanics, and is another
pointer for laser trouble.

By all means try cleaning the lens, but do not use a lens cleaner disc, as
this is unlikely to help, and can on some machines, cause physical damage
to the laser assembly. Access is usually available once the optical block
has been slid down its tracks towards the back of the deck, which brings
it out from under the disc clamp. The lens should be cleaned carefully
with a cotton bud (Q-Tip) moistened (not wet) with electronics grade
isopropyl alcohol. The lens suspension is fairly delicate, so don't be
'brutal' with it, but by the same token, it is not so delicate that it is
easily damaged. Just use common sense. When the alcohol has evaporated,
polish the lens with a new clean and dry cotton bud.

The only symptom that you describe, which is a little 'odd' is that discs
seem to start from odd places rather than the beginning, although that
might just be being caused by the laser having trouble getting a good
error-free data stream off the disc.

Arfa

As usual, Geoff has more patience than I have. Bottom line: buy a new
player. A Pioneer would probably last longer.

Mark Z.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"billccm" <billccm@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:909000d2-0527-45bf-80fc-c5cb0100d948@a1g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...

Hello All:

A coworker has an RCA rear projection TV that sizzled and shut down.
If someone has a schematic they could forward, I would be grateful.

Thanks for any help, and have a nice day,

Bill

Good luck with that...

Mark Z.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzacharias@nonsense.net> wrote in message
news:Mk7Uj.15987$2g1.5987@nlpi068.nbdc.sbc.com...

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:rK6Uj.367$JK1.79@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...

aaronep@pacbell.net> wrote in message
news:e72a60a2-8357-4176-aa79-d5032250671b@b9g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
I have a Toshiba DVD player, model #SD-K760SU that is approx 1 year
old.
It is not playing properly in that scenes freeze on the screen, images
are distorted, and
Disks do not start from the beginning, but from other parts of the
disk.

Is this a situation where the lens needs cleaning, or might it be
another matter? If the lens does need cleaning, how can I access
the lens, OR, are there lens cleaning kits available?

Any suggestions on how to rectify the situation would be appreciated.

Aaron

For reasons quoted many times on here, DVD players do not generally
suffer from dirty lenses like CD players do. Exceptions to this are if
the player is located in a country or area that is very dry, or if the
player is located in a heavy smoking environment. Playability problems
are most often associated with a worn laser, although one year does seem
a little on the 'young' side. That said, if the player gets heavy use, it
is by no means unheard of for a laser of just one year to be showing
signs of wear, and of course, none of this precludes the possibility of
the laser being defective. Other causes of playability problems include
mechanical defects on the deck, iffy spindle motors and 'marginal' caps
on the power supply.

Do your freezes tend to occur late in the disc ? If so, that is usually a
good indicator of laser trouble, as it is much more difficult for it to
read layer two through layer one. A further test that you can run is to
try playing some full-length commercially pressed CDs. If these play
without problem, this pretty much verifies the mechanics, and is another
pointer for laser trouble.

By all means try cleaning the lens, but do not use a lens cleaner disc,
as this is unlikely to help, and can on some machines, cause physical
damage to the laser assembly. Access is usually available once the
optical block has been slid down its tracks towards the back of the deck,
which brings it out from under the disc clamp. The lens should be cleaned
carefully with a cotton bud (Q-Tip) moistened (not wet) with electronics
grade isopropyl alcohol. The lens suspension is fairly delicate, so don't
be 'brutal' with it, but by the same token, it is not so delicate that it
is easily damaged. Just use common sense. When the alcohol has
evaporated, polish the lens with a new clean and dry cotton bud.

The only symptom that you describe, which is a little 'odd' is that discs
seem to start from odd places rather than the beginning, although that
might just be being caused by the laser having trouble getting a good
error-free data stream off the disc.

Arfa


As usual, Geoff has more patience than I have. Bottom line: buy a new
player. A Pioneer would probably last longer.

Mark Z.

You're probably right Mark but hey, we gotta try, don't we ? d;~}

Arfa

 

[DaveM]

<wm_walsh@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:728a86a4-13c3-4173-8eae-5533f35e498d@m44g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...

Hi!

http://www.helpwithpcs.com/courses/power-supply-basics-inc-pinouts.htm

Thanks for the link. I already saw it though, and unless there is
something I missed, it does not give a voltage for the Power Good pin.
The only identification I saw there was "PWR_OK" with no further
explanation offered.

William

Take a look at the page at http://www.pavouk.org/hw/en_atxps.html. It gives you
a sample ATX power supply schematic, plus a decent description of the operation,
including the "Power_Good" circuit.

HTH,
--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for anything, but they bring a
smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.