Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

These connectors _look_ as if they should come loose by pulling on the white
side to release them. But the image is badly blurred it's hard to tell. I'm
surprised the camera fired, given how badly out-of-focus the shot is.
 
Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$ <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid>
wrote<PoednY_Ict90aY3VRVnyiwA@bt.com>:

§nühwölf wrote:
"Dr.Hal0nf1r$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> clouded
the waters of pure thought with:
§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 22:19:58 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 20:43:07 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 23:32:32 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 22:15:06 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 15:34:16 -0700
Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 16:09:53 -0500, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, snuhwolf@netscape.net (§ńühw¤Łf) got
double secret probation for writing:

Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> clouded the waters of
pure thought with:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 09:01:56 -0700, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, §ńühw¤Łf <snuhwolf@netscape.net> got
double secret probation for writing:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:35:53 +1000
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com
wrote:

"Aratzio" <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote in message
news:9opi0456deigk7ihd4bq4mq3u9mar9tha3@4ax.com...
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:26:03 +1000, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, "Kadaitcha Man"
nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> got double secret
probation for writing:

"Butch Haynes" <butch@huntsville> wrote in message

news:zbmdnUfjYIjDTZXVnZ2dnUVZ_gWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
radiant_x@outgun.com> wrote in message
news:293e3140-e027-496c-89d8-
27906e8991f7@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

I recently installed a DVD drive into my PC. (2
days ago.) Since then, I get spontaneous power
loss
periodically - sometimes seconds after booting,
other times after hours of operation. I've tried
replacing the power supply, and I've tried
removing all my hardware (other than RAM), so I'm
thinking it must be motherboard related.

Unplug/replug all power and data connections. That
way, the errant loose one will be fixed and your
problem will be resolved.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

Tech support by feng shui.

"I've tried removing all my hardware(other than
RAM)"

Do none of them understand what that entails?


None of them understand anything.

I go toetally on into-ition.
Just do what feels good for a few hours...take out a
few
cables...fondle them...blow out the dust
bunnies...listen to the Grateful Dead live at
Winterland for inspiration. Drink another beer...
Change a bunch of jumpers on the Mobo at random.
Leave shit scattered around on yer workbench and
wander
away. Watch cartoons for another hour...
Come back and put it back together.
Holy Shit! Now it works.
Thats how I do it anyway.
FYI
HTH

Dunno why you geeks muck about with all that crap.

I take em out to the back 40, prop em against the side
of
the gully and show them my Springfield 30-06.

BLINK
BLINK
OMG! I would never shoot a poor defenceless computer!

They always work after that.

I assume you miss...

Works good with the employees, wife and kids too.

Note to self: dont work for 'Ratz.

Never had need to actually fire the damn thing.

Interesting. So you say that pc's respond to threats of
annihilation? I've got a sledge hammer laying about...
Will it solve my booting problems?

Try steel toe caps.

That didnt help at all.

You didn't kick it hard enough.

Now it wont turn on at all.
You owe me a new computer.

You weren't supposed to kick the on/off switch; especially with
steel toe caps!

I kicked the po\/\/3r supp1y.
Smokin!

Now replace the PSU and discover that the old one was the cause
of
the original fault, and now the computer works perfectly -
Problem
solved.

I smoked the rest. Put it in a pipe and smoked it.
I saw ones & zeros for like six hours man!

RS232/i386 wacky backy! Cool.

It was toxic though so I died and now I'm posting from
beyond the grave.

Free ghost image included too: There's value for money!

Norton Ghost haunts my house.
Click to expand...

--
http://www.alternet.org/workplace/83349/
 
"Wiebe Cazemier" <halfgaar@gmx.net> wrote in message
news:dd369$4811b4a7$d4cc82be$19756@cache5.tilbu1.nb.home.nl...
Hi,

My 4 or 5 year old Eizo T766 19" CRT began showing an intermittant fault
yesterday. Sometimes the screen contracts a bit and comes back with wrong
colors. An example is that the screen turns very blue, and you can see the
diagonal vertical retrace lines in blue running over the screen (at least,
I
assume they are the retrace lines). When the screen snaps back, it's often
too
greenish, but turns normal over the course of a few minutes.

I had it open yesterday, and a couple of times, I could reproduce the
fault by
touching the cathode assembly, so I thought it was a physical error, like
a
loose contact. And just now, when it did it again, the monitor responded
to me
hitting it (gently...). But, I couldn't reproduce it consistently,
yesterday
or now.

I have a couple of questions.

1) A couple of times, the fault caused the monitor to go into off mode. At
least, the power led turned yellow, which it normally does in offmode. Is
it
likely that when the fault is somewhere in a late stage as the cathode
assembly, that the control electronics is aware of it?

2) Should I want to refit the plugs connected to the cathode assembly
(three
big wires; are those the RGB line voltage wires?), I would need to
discharge
the CRT. I've seen a lot of videos of people just sticking a screwdriver
connected to the metal chassis under the anode plug, but is that safe?
I've
never discharged a CRT before, so I'm kind of apprehensive.

3) How vital is it to discharge the power supply caps? If so, how does one
do
that?

Any other insight is welcome, of course.

Thanks in advance,

Wiebe Cazemier
Click to expand...
I would suspect bad solder joints in the area where you can induce the fault
by tapping. It *may* be a short inside the CRT, but don't condemn that yet.
Don't worry about discharging the capacitors, just unplug it for 10 minutes
or so and it should be safe. Even when you're sure everything is dead, treat
it as live just in case.
 
§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$ <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote<PoednY_Ict90aY3VRVnyiwA@bt.com>:

§nühwölf wrote:
"Dr.Hal0nf1r$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> clouded
the waters of pure thought with:
§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 22:19:58 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 20:43:07 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 23:32:32 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 22:15:06 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 15:34:16 -0700
Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 16:09:53 -0500, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, snuhwolf@netscape.net (§ńühw¤Łf) got
double secret probation for writing:

Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> clouded the waters of
pure thought with:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 09:01:56 -0700, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, §ńühw¤Łf <snuhwolf@netscape.net> got
double secret probation for writing:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:35:53 +1000
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com
wrote:

"Aratzio" <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote in message
news:9opi0456deigk7ihd4bq4mq3u9mar9tha3@4ax.com...
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:26:03 +1000, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, "Kadaitcha Man"
nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> got double secret
probation for writing:

"Butch Haynes" <butch@huntsville> wrote in message

news:zbmdnUfjYIjDTZXVnZ2dnUVZ_gWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
radiant_x@outgun.com> wrote in message
news:293e3140-e027-496c-89d8-
27906e8991f7@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

I recently installed a DVD drive into my PC. (2
days ago.) Since then, I get spontaneous power
loss periodically - sometimes seconds after
booting, other times after hours of operation.
I've tried replacing the power supply, and I've
tried removing all my hardware (other than RAM),
so I'm thinking it must be motherboard related.

Unplug/replug all power and data connections. That
way, the errant loose one will be fixed and your
problem will be resolved.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

Tech support by feng shui.

"I've tried removing all my hardware(other than
RAM)"

Do none of them understand what that entails?


None of them understand anything.

I go toetally on into-ition.
Just do what feels good for a few hours...take out a
few cables...fondle them...blow out the dust
bunnies...listen to the Grateful Dead live at
Winterland for inspiration. Drink another beer...
Change a bunch of jumpers on the Mobo at random.
Leave shit scattered around on yer workbench and
wander away. Watch cartoons for another hour...
Come back and put it back together.
Holy Shit! Now it works.
Thats how I do it anyway.
FYI
HTH

Dunno why you geeks muck about with all that crap.

I take em out to the back 40, prop em against the side
of the gully and show them my Springfield 30-06.

BLINK
BLINK
OMG! I would never shoot a poor defenceless computer!

They always work after that.

I assume you miss...

Works good with the employees, wife and kids too.

Note to self: dont work for 'Ratz.

Never had need to actually fire the damn thing.

Interesting. So you say that pc's respond to threats of
annihilation? I've got a sledge hammer laying about...
Will it solve my booting problems?

Try steel toe caps.

That didnt help at all.

You didn't kick it hard enough.

Now it wont turn on at all.
You owe me a new computer.

You weren't supposed to kick the on/off switch; especially with
steel toe caps!

I kicked the po\/\/3r supp1y.
Smokin!

Now replace the PSU and discover that the old one was the cause
of the original fault, and now the computer works perfectly -
Problem solved.

I smoked the rest. Put it in a pipe and smoked it.
I saw ones & zeros for like six hours man!

RS232/i386 wacky backy! Cool.

It was toxic though so I died and now I'm posting from
beyond the grave.

Free ghost image included too: There's value for money!

Norton Ghost haunts my house.
Click to expand...
If you have an image of your house on the second drive it makes you look
much more wealthy.

--
http://www.kustomkomputa.co.uk
- Personalised Desktop Computers
 
§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$ <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote<PoednY_Ict90aY3VRVnyiwA@bt.com>:

§nühwölf wrote:
"Dr.Hal0nf1r$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> clouded
the waters of pure thought with:
§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 22:19:58 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 20:43:07 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 23:32:32 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 22:15:06 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 15:34:16 -0700
Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 16:09:53 -0500, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, snuhwolf@netscape.net (§ńühw¤Łf) got
double secret probation for writing:

Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> clouded the waters of
pure thought with:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 09:01:56 -0700, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, §ńühw¤Łf <snuhwolf@netscape.net> got
double secret probation for writing:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:35:53 +1000
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com
wrote:

"Aratzio" <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote in message
news:9opi0456deigk7ihd4bq4mq3u9mar9tha3@4ax.com...
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:26:03 +1000, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, "Kadaitcha Man"
nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> got double secret
probation for writing:

"Butch Haynes" <butch@huntsville> wrote in message

news:zbmdnUfjYIjDTZXVnZ2dnUVZ_gWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
radiant_x@outgun.com> wrote in message
news:293e3140-e027-496c-89d8-
27906e8991f7@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

I recently installed a DVD drive into my PC. (2
days ago.) Since then, I get spontaneous power
loss periodically - sometimes seconds after
booting, other times after hours of operation.
I've tried replacing the power supply, and I've
tried removing all my hardware (other than RAM),
so I'm thinking it must be motherboard related.

Unplug/replug all power and data connections. That
way, the errant loose one will be fixed and your
problem will be resolved.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

Tech support by feng shui.

"I've tried removing all my hardware(other than
RAM)"

Do none of them understand what that entails?


None of them understand anything.

I go toetally on into-ition.
Just do what feels good for a few hours...take out a
few cables...fondle them...blow out the dust
bunnies...listen to the Grateful Dead live at
Winterland for inspiration. Drink another beer...
Change a bunch of jumpers on the Mobo at random.
Leave shit scattered around on yer workbench and
wander away. Watch cartoons for another hour...
Come back and put it back together.
Holy Shit! Now it works.
Thats how I do it anyway.
FYI
HTH

Dunno why you geeks muck about with all that crap.

I take em out to the back 40, prop em against the side
of the gully and show them my Springfield 30-06.

BLINK
BLINK
OMG! I would never shoot a poor defenceless computer!

They always work after that.

I assume you miss...

Works good with the employees, wife and kids too.

Note to self: dont work for 'Ratz.

Never had need to actually fire the damn thing.

Interesting. So you say that pc's respond to threats of
annihilation? I've got a sledge hammer laying about...
Will it solve my booting problems?

Try steel toe caps.

That didnt help at all.

You didn't kick it hard enough.

Now it wont turn on at all.
You owe me a new computer.

You weren't supposed to kick the on/off switch; especially with
steel toe caps!

I kicked the po\/\/3r supp1y.
Smokin!

Now replace the PSU and discover that the old one was the cause
of the original fault, and now the computer works perfectly -
Problem solved.

I smoked the rest. Put it in a pipe and smoked it.
I saw ones & zeros for like six hours man!

RS232/i386 wacky backy! Cool.

It was toxic though so I died and now I'm posting from
beyond the grave.

Free ghost image included too: There's value for money!

Norton Ghost haunts my house.
Click to expand...
If you have an image of your house on the second drive it makes you look
much more wealthy.

--
http://www.kustomkomputa.co.uk
- Personalised Desktop Computers
 
"Mr. Land" <graftonfot@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:26c1aa54-52b3-4bf9-bc96-aef84a50b0d6@l64g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 25, 5:49 am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
"Gareth Magennis" <sound.serv...@btconnect.com> wrote in message

news:Bw5Qj.15740$244.6022@newsfe1-win.ntli.net...





"James Sweet" <jamessw...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Kn4Qj.6369$Mm1.4242@trndny07...

One thing to watch out for is the hysteresis in these devices. The
device I pointed out will turn the fan on at 30 degrees, but it won't
go
off again until the temperature drops to 20. If your room is warmer
than that it will never turn off!

Gareth.

Could build something. I recall seeing some temperature controller
circuits that used a diode as the sensing element. Should be easy to
adjust the hysteresis by selecting component values.

Well this is the range of those devices:

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/level5/module.jsp?moduleId=en/212166.xml

Note that the opening and closing temperatures on some of them are the
wrong way around, but I reckon that the normally open switch that will
switch on the fan at 55 degrees C and turn it off at 35, part no.
1006853,
would be ideal. 55 degrees is not going to cook any electronics and it
is
unlikely that room temperature is ever going to get to 35. Case solved,
one component, no design work required, and extremely reliable.

Gareth.

If you do go down that route, I think that the sensor needs to be inside
whichever piece of your equipment generates the most heat (with the
attendant potential electrical safety issues which that may cause on a
piece
of kit with a switch-mode power supply ...) because if the temperature is
going to reach 55 deg inside the glass-doored cabinet, then it's going to
be
a whole bunch hotter than that inside the equipment, and trust me, that
*is*
electronics 'cooking' temperature. Sort of electrolytics on toast if you
like ... :)

For me, your original power slave switch idea was the better option.

Arfa
Click to expand...
Yes, I think I agree - when I first saw pictures of those thermal
switches, the first thought that occurred to me was: "Now where am I
going to bolt one of these onto my components..." A bit too invasive,
I think, at least for me, but it is a great idea otherwise.




You don't need to bolt them on any of your equipment, you want them to react
to the air temperature. As the air gets hot, so does the switch, you can put
them wherever in the cabinet you like.



Gareth.
 
"KC" <kohemp@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:cf9a9e38-8bee-4f5f-a9ec-f2ecf254e0e5@n1g2000prb.googlegroups.com...
Just upgraded from an old analog tv to a Samsung DTV. The first
problem I noticed is the lip sync audio-to-video time delay on NBC's
national digital programs. While analog broadcast has some small time
delay, digital has 2x-3x more delay, making it almost impossible to
watch. Local station in-house digital programming does not have any
more delay than analog, but as soon as they switch to national
programming, the delay goes to hell. ABC & CBS does not have nearly
the delay that NBC has. I brought the problem to the attention of the
local NBC station, but they said & did nothing.
Does anyone else notice the problem, or is it generated by my local
station?

KC
Click to expand...
You didnt mention what your A/V setup is, but what source are you using for
your video/audio?

D
 
"Wiebe Cazemier" <wiebe@halfgaar.net> wrote in message
news:39465$4812624c$d4cc82be$1248@cache3.tilbu1.nb.home.nl...
On Friday 25 April 2008 18:38, James Sweet wrote:

I would suspect bad solder joints in the area where you can induce the
fault
by tapping. It *may* be a short inside the CRT, but don't condemn that
yet.
Don't worry about discharging the capacitors, just unplug it for 10
minutes
or so and it should be safe. Even when you're sure everything is dead,
treat
it as live just in case.

And what about the CRT? Is discharging as I described safe?

When the fault is in the CRT, I assume nothing can be done? Well, let's
just
hope it's not that; those Sony Trinitron tubes are pretty good, so I guess
the
chance is small. But on the other hand, because after a fault, the screen
is
greenish, which turns OK over the course of about 30-60 minutes, heating
cathodes may very well be it. The cathode assembly itself doesn't heat up
that
fast.
Click to expand...


You shouldn't have to discharge the CRT, that's only necessary if you have
to remove the anode lead, even then it usually discharges itself through the
focus divider on color monitors.

The 22" flat trinitron tubes commonly have intermittant focus issues, mine
acts up occasionally but has behaved pretty well lately. Haven't run into
that with the 19" tubes.
 
"JR North" <junkjasonrnorth@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:pu6dndEA2Lxyxo_VnZ2dnUVZ_jidnZ2d@seanet.com...
Pyle PLRG23
I had the unit out, on the bench, troubleshooting no FM lock. AM was fine.
I had power/ground connected to the plug, which also carries the speaker
circuits. These are female connectors.The radio was on, at min volume. I
did not have speakers connected. During initial testing with a logic probe
in the tuner section, the radio shut off. I found high current draw in the
power supply, and turned it off immediately. On checking, the radio would
not power up, and drew 10A from the supply. I determined the monolithic
stereo output chip (TDA-burn) was dead short to ground. The heatsink was
quite hot.
Q:
Could the chip fry from no load connected? I'm certain I didn't short it
at the plug, and wasn't even in the output stage with my tests.
JR
Click to expand...
Under normal circumstances, I would have said absolutely not, but strangely,
today, I was discussing exactly this with a colleague, who installs and
repairs car entertainment kit for a living. I was picking up a large Sony AV
amp from his shop for repair, and he said that it had symptoms of output
failure, and he thought that this was most likely because the owner did not
use the front channels on it, only the surround ones, so did not have any
load connected to those fronts. I expressed doubt at this, telling him that
the general rule of thumb was that semiconductor outputs didn't like shorts,
and valve outputs didn't like opens. but then he told me that he sees car
radios all the time, that have the sides blown out of the output ICs, caused
by the speaker connections being left open, when the owners use external
blaster amps, driven from low-level line outputs, rather than from the
speakers.

So, based on that, and the fact that he is generally good at what he does,
and knows what he's talking about, I would have to revise my opinion of your
question, and say "yes, very possibly ... "

Arfa
 
E"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:90vQj.50$5X.10@trndny08:

You shouldn't have to discharge the CRT, that's only necessary if you
have to remove the anode lead, even then it usually discharges itself
through the focus divider on color monitors.
Click to expand...
Caution: even if you discharge the CRT, if the anode lead is disconnected,
as the dielectric (glass in this case) 'relaxes from the stresses of being
charged', a charge can build back up.

I can remember drawing a nice arc many minutes after discharging the tube
the first time.

This can be a bit of a surprise, especially if you are removing the CRT to
replace it. Shocking, one might say.

Also, the comment about letting it sit for 10 minutes so all the capacitors
will be discharged is good, assuming that there are no open bleeder
resistors, etc. But, it might NOT be good to 'bet your life' on the
bleeders doing their job. Occasionally, they do open, so your caution to
treat them as if they might be 'live' is a good one for those that want a
long life.

--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap
 
"bz" <bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote in message
news:Xns9A8BDA027CCDCWQAHBGMXSZHVspammote@130.39.198.139...
E"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:90vQj.50$5X.10@trndny08:

You shouldn't have to discharge the CRT, that's only necessary if you
have to remove the anode lead, even then it usually discharges itself
through the focus divider on color monitors.

Caution: even if you discharge the CRT, if the anode lead is disconnected,
as the dielectric (glass in this case) 'relaxes from the stresses of being
charged', a charge can build back up.

I can remember drawing a nice arc many minutes after discharging the tube
the first time.

This can be a bit of a surprise, especially if you are removing the CRT to
replace it. Shocking, one might say.

Also, the comment about letting it sit for 10 minutes so all the
capacitors
will be discharged is good, assuming that there are no open bleeder
resistors, etc. But, it might NOT be good to 'bet your life' on the
bleeders doing their job. Occasionally, they do open, so your caution to
treat them as if they might be 'live' is a good one for those that want a
long life.
Click to expand...

Yes if you disconnect the anode, you should definitely discharge it again
before you touch it, I usually leave a clip lead connecting it to the ground
strap so that doesn't happen. The zap won't hurt you, but it's enough of a
surprise to drop the thing or cut your hand open. In this case he shouldn't
have to disconnect the anode though.
 
In article
<cf9a9e38-8bee-4f5f-a9ec-f2ecf254e0e5@n1g2000prb.googlegroups.com>,
KC <kohemp@hotmail.com> wrote:
Just upgraded from an old analog tv to a Samsung DTV. The first
problem I noticed is the lip sync audio-to-video time delay on NBC's
national digital programs. While analog broadcast has some small time
delay, digital has 2x-3x more delay, making it almost impossible to
watch. Local station in-house digital programming does not have any
more delay than analog, but as soon as they switch to national
programming, the delay goes to hell. ABC & CBS does not have nearly
the delay that NBC has. I brought the problem to the attention of the
local NBC station, but they said & did nothing.
Does anyone else notice the problem, or is it generated by my local
station?
Click to expand...
Analogue should have no noticeable delay in its basic form. If it has it's
down to some extra processing, usually in the video. And the broadcaster
*should* compensate for this.

However, most modern TVs add in some video processing or have an inherent
video delay by their nature. Better ones delay the audio to retain sync.
Can be a problem where a CRT set used mainly as a monitor with an AV
system is replaced with a newer type - as I discovered with my DLP setup.
Ie the sound came direct from the AV setup which also switched the picture
source.

However, you appear to have a problem with only one channel which rules
out this. I'd suggest you ask neighbours if they have the same problem as
it could be a funny with the tuner in your set. The reason I say this is I
have several DTV tuners here and they all produce slightly different
delays to the sound (ignoring that produced by the TV itself) so it is
just possible for this sort of fault on just the one channel - or rather
group of channels.

--
*24 hours in a day ... 24 beers in a case ... coincidence? *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
Greetings..

Just a crazy question but, WHY were you in there with a "logic
probe" in the first place?

Granted, after repairing HF, VHF and UHF radios for years in the
amateur service I realize the computerization of radios these
days, but I'm just curious.

Do you have electrical schematics for this unit? Ultimately a
service manual for this type of situation?

No?

Simple solution, IF you want to pay for correcting the issue -
back to the certified manufacturer repair depot. Otherwise, scrap
or shotgun guesswork (and associated expense) without schematics,
voltage levels, waveform diagrams and alignment procedures.

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor



"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:1qrd4q.p9q.19.1@news.alt.net...
| On Fri, 25 Apr 2008 15:32:05 -0700, JR North wrote:
|
| > Pyle PLRG23
| > I had the unit out, on the bench, troubleshooting no FM lock.
AM was
| > fine. I had power/ground connected to the plug, which also
carries the
| > speaker circuits. These are female connectors.The radio was
on, at min
| > volume. I did not have speakers connected. During initial
testing with a
| > logic probe in the tuner section, the radio shut off. I found
high
| > current draw in the power supply, and turned it off
immediately. On
| > checking, the radio would not power up, and drew 10A from the
supply. I
| > determined the monolithic stereo output chip (TDA-burn) was
dead short
| > to ground. The heatsink was quite hot.
| > Q:
| > Could the chip fry from no load connected? I'm certain I
didn't short it
| > at the plug, and wasn't even in the output stage with my
tests.
| > JR
|
| Getting my start in mobile audio some seeming centuries ago, I
would say
| yes it is possible. I was taught to always load the outputs
regardless.
| I feel for you. I've spent many hours righting accidental
wrongs and
| wrongs that in your case appeared secondary to the cause for
repair and
| weren't justified as billable.
 
Greetings Mr. Frank & others..

Regarding:
"4.7uf 25v non-polarized electrolytic capacitor of handy t.v.,"

Never ad-hock something together when you can get the equivalent
OEM part from a multitude of suppliers. For example:

http://www.mouser.com/search/Refine.aspx?Ne=2203862+1447464&N=2203862+1323038&Ns=P_SField

Note the far left-hand side of the window:

Bi-Polar/Non-Polar Electrolytic Capacitors

Literally, pull the menu selection down as to what you need and
presto, see if they've got it in stock and sell in single
quantities.

Incidentally, Mouser is a premier components supplier for the
entire U.S. If they don't have it, they can get it, if they can't
get it, they'll [typically] tell you a manufacture to contact.

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor

Their catalog is about the thickness of the yellow pages for a
large city. When you call them, request that they send you one.
They also offer that catalog now days on CD ROM. Your choice.



<Mr.Frank263@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:58868fa4-24b3-4d8d-9a2a-818aedee6c36@c58g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
| with which type and value to replace the below capacitor, I
tried my
| best to find a new one but could not
| 4.7uf 25v non-polarized electrolytic capacitor of handy t.v.,
two
| and a half inch, made in Taiwan
 
Wiebe Cazemier <wiebe@halfgaar.net> wrote in
news:a1268$48130a2f$d4cc82be$16529@cache1.tilbu1.nb.home.nl:

On Saturday 26 April 2008 04:25, bz wrote:

Also, the comment about letting it sit for 10 minutes so all the
capacitors will be discharged is good, assuming that there are no open
bleeder resistors, etc. But, it might NOT be good to 'bet your life' on
the bleeders doing their job. Occasionally, they do open, so your
caution to treat them as if they might be 'live' is a good one for
those that want a long life.


OK, but since I will need to solder and/or refit plugs, I can't consider
it to be 'live' at all time. Will it be sufficient to measure the
voltage between the RGB line wires, for example, and ground, to give me
an idea of whether it's safe?
Click to expand...
Yes.




--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+spr@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap
 
Wiebe Cazemier <wiebe@halfgaar.net> wrote in
news:b2c19$48130a86$d4cc82be$17029@cache1.tilbu1.nb.home.nl:

On Saturday 26 April 2008 02:51, James Sweet wrote:

You shouldn't have to discharge the CRT, that's only necessary if you
have to remove the anode lead, even then it usually discharges itself
through the focus divider on color monitors.

So discharge through the cathode assembly won't happen?


The 22" flat trinitron tubes commonly have intermittant focus issues,
mine acts up occasionally but has behaved pretty well lately. Haven't
run into that with the 19" tubes.

Focus issues are not my problem. When there is a fault, the screen
flashes a couple of times, contracts, expands (like an old TV) and
sometimes it shuts itself off.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you might have an intermittent short to ground on a power
supply line, perhaps inside a bad capacitor.
Or an intermittent connection in the voltage sensing circuits, or the AC
line into the power supply.

Intermittents are difficult to localize and fix.

Perhaps you can narrow down the problem by monitoring voltages at various
points while it is acting up.



--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap
 
Can you open up one of the switches and try cleaning the contacts? If not
working now, what do you have to lose?

Bob



"rogaining keith" <k_stewart@ozemail.com.au> wrote in message
news:bafe3b04-1a9e-4b41-93c2-f215eb648fd1@s33g2000pri.googlegroups.com...
I have a Cotter Pre-amp circa 1982 that is in need of repair. The
interlocking push-button switches are failing. Does anyone know of
either 1) a place that repairs Cotter amps or 2) a supplier of the
switches used in the cotter pre-amp?
Click to expand...
 
Sounds like something is intermittent in the radio section (assumes
amplifier/auxiliary input/tape/etc. all are still working fine). I'd start
by looking for cold/broken solder connections under a magnifying. Or
alternatively, if that does not work and you can get at the board safely
while the unit is powered up, you can try pushing at various points with a
wooden dowel or similar non-conductive item. This may help you isolate the
area to take a closer look.

If these do not help, then you'll either need a schematic, a volt meter,
scope, and some troubleshooting skills to check the power supply voltages at
key points and then follow the signal through the radio section or take it
to someone to do the work for you.

Bob

<tx7123@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:facbbdcd-1b25-4648-a91b-6c409b7924d8@56g2000hsm.googlegroups.com...
I have a pioneer sx-727 receiver, I'm the original owner (33 years).
Recently the radio stopped working.
Everything else works great.
FM, AM no difference does NOT work.
The tuning meter does not move as I turn the tuning dial.
If I turn the volume up, I can hear some static thru the speakers.
Occasionally the radio will spontaneously work for a while,
and then return to this dead mode.
All the other inputs cd, turntable work fine.
Any ideas what the problem might be?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
Sounds like something is intermittent in the radio section (assumes
amplifier/auxiliary input/tape/etc. all are still working fine). I'd start
by looking for cold/broken solder connections under a magnifying. Or
alternatively, if that does not work and you can get at the board safely
while the unit is powered up, you can try pushing at various points with a
wooden dowel or similar non-conductive item. This may help you isolate the
area to take a closer look.

If these do not help, then you'll either need a schematic, a volt meter,
scope, and some troubleshooting skills to check the power supply voltages at
key points and then follow the signal through the radio section or take it
to someone to do the work for you.

Bob

<tx7123@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:facbbdcd-1b25-4648-a91b-6c409b7924d8@56g2000hsm.googlegroups.com...
I have a pioneer sx-727 receiver, I'm the original owner (33 years).
Recently the radio stopped working.
Everything else works great.
FM, AM no difference does NOT work.
The tuning meter does not move as I turn the tuning dial.
If I turn the volume up, I can hear some static thru the speakers.
Occasionally the radio will spontaneously work for a while,
and then return to this dead mode.
All the other inputs cd, turntable work fine.
Any ideas what the problem might be?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Fri, 25 Apr 2008 17:46:44 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$ <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote<PoednY_Ict90aY3VRVnyiwA@bt.com>:

§nühwölf wrote:
"Dr.Hal0nf1r$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
clouded the waters of pure thought with:
§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 22:19:58 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 20:43:07 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 23:32:32 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 22:15:06 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$"
femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 15:34:16 -0700
Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 16:09:53 -0500, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, snuhwolf@netscape.net (§ńühw¤Łf) got
double secret probation for writing:

Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> clouded the waters
of pure thought with:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 09:01:56 -0700, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, §ńühw¤Łf <snuhwolf@netscape.net
got double secret probation for writing:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:35:53 +1000
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com
wrote:

"Aratzio" <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote in
message
news:9opi0456deigk7ihd4bq4mq3u9mar9tha3@4ax.com...
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:26:03 +1000, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, "Kadaitcha Man"
nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> got double secret
probation for writing:

"Butch Haynes" <butch@huntsville> wrote in
message

news:zbmdnUfjYIjDTZXVnZ2dnUVZ_gWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
radiant_x@outgun.com> wrote in message
news:293e3140-e027-496c-89d8-
27906e8991f7@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

I recently installed a DVD drive into my PC. (2
days ago.) Since then, I get spontaneous power
loss periodically - sometimes seconds after
booting, other times after hours of operation.
I've tried replacing the power supply, and I've
tried removing all my hardware (other than
RAM), so I'm thinking it must be motherboard
related.

Unplug/replug all power and data connections.
That way, the errant loose one will be fixed
and your problem will be resolved.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

Tech support by feng shui.

"I've tried removing all my hardware(other than
RAM)"

Do none of them understand what that entails?


None of them understand anything.

I go toetally on into-ition.
Just do what feels good for a few hours...take out a
few cables...fondle them...blow out the dust
bunnies...listen to the Grateful Dead live at
Winterland for inspiration. Drink another beer...
Change a bunch of jumpers on the Mobo at random.
Leave shit scattered around on yer workbench and
wander away. Watch cartoons for another hour...
Come back and put it back together.
Holy Shit! Now it works.
Thats how I do it anyway.
FYI
HTH

Dunno why you geeks muck about with all that crap.

I take em out to the back 40, prop em against the
side of the gully and show them my Springfield 30-06.

BLINK
BLINK
OMG! I would never shoot a poor defenceless computer!

They always work after that.

I assume you miss...

Works good with the employees, wife and kids too.

Note to self: dont work for 'Ratz.

Never had need to actually fire the damn thing.

Interesting. So you say that pc's respond to threats of
annihilation? I've got a sledge hammer laying about...
Will it solve my booting problems?

Try steel toe caps.

That didnt help at all.

You didn't kick it hard enough.

Now it wont turn on at all.
You owe me a new computer.

You weren't supposed to kick the on/off switch; especially
with steel toe caps!

I kicked the po\/\/3r supp1y.
Smokin!

Now replace the PSU and discover that the old one was the cause
of the original fault, and now the computer works perfectly -
Problem solved.

I smoked the rest. Put it in a pipe and smoked it.
I saw ones & zeros for like six hours man!

RS232/i386 wacky backy! Cool.

It was toxic though so I died and now I'm posting from
beyond the grave.

Free ghost image included too: There's value for money!

Norton Ghost haunts my house.

If you have an image of your house on the second drive it makes you
look much more wealthy.

I repartitioned it to give myself more rooms!
Click to expand...
ROHS compliant? Recycled houses could soon be all the rage with the current
world financial slump.

--
http://www.kustomkomputa.co.uk
- Personalised Desktop Computers
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Welcome to EDABoard.com

Sponsor

Back
Top