Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

"Mr. Land" <graftonfot@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:4f639594-2cf3-459d-b712-52ab529b33ab@w1g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 24, 12:47 pm, "Gareth Magennis" <sound.serv...@btconnect.com>
wrote:
"Mr. Land" <grafton...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:33963e36-1c90-4b75-88a8-145d4c63aa36@q27g2000prf.googlegroups.com...



Greetings,

When in use, a few of our home theater components heat up the interior
spaces of our entertainment center to a temperature that I feel is too
hot (yes, that's a very subjective statement). The entertainment
center uses tall, mostly glass doors, and they are one-piece,
therefore when they are open they protrude pretty far into the room.
When they are closed, there is little-to-no ventilation inside the
cabinets. One evening, I mustered up some courage and tried simply
leaving the doors open but sure enough, one of my kids came close to
ripping the entire door off of its hinges when she bumped into it.

Now I have a bunch of very quiet 12V computer fans in a box and, being
a long time victim of chronic tinkering disease, I was considering
installing one or two in the cabinet backs to draw hot air out. But I
know that when I am not around, no one in my family is going to take
the extra step to turn on the fans.

So I was thinking of some sort of current sensing switch to energize
the fans when the system was in use, sensing AC current draw over some
adjustable threshold value. I tried a web search and found current
sensing units, but these seemed to be industrial-quality, overkill for
my application, and well, yes, I'll admit it, it'll be more fun to
build it.

I was wondering if anyone had a pointer to a simple circuit I could
build to accomplish this.

Thanks for any help, best wishes.

Apologies if this post doesn't fall under "repair" in folks' opinions
- I suppose it could be considered "repairing" my entertainment
center...

Why not just use a thermal switch such as this?
http://uk.farnell.com/732424/industrial-controls-automation/product.u...

Very cheap, very simple, will only switch on the fan when it is needed.
They come in various temperatures.

Gareth.
Click to expand...
Now why didn't I think of that? I suppose even an el-cheapo furnace
thermostat might work too.
Thanks for that idea.



One thing to watch out for is the hysteresis in these devices. The device I
pointed out will turn the fan on at 30 degrees, but it won't go off again
until the temperature drops to 20. If your room is warmer than that it will
never turn off!


Gareth.
 
One thing to watch out for is the hysteresis in these devices. The device
I pointed out will turn the fan on at 30 degrees, but it won't go off
again until the temperature drops to 20. If your room is warmer than that
it will never turn off!


Gareth.
Click to expand...

Could build something. I recall seeing some temperature controller circuits
that used a diode as the sensing element. Should be easy to adjust the
hysteresis by selecting component values.
 
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Kn4Qj.6369$Mm1.4242@trndny07...
One thing to watch out for is the hysteresis in these devices. The
device I pointed out will turn the fan on at 30 degrees, but it won't go
off again until the temperature drops to 20. If your room is warmer than
that it will never turn off!


Gareth.



Could build something. I recall seeing some temperature controller
circuits that used a diode as the sensing element. Should be easy to
adjust the hysteresis by selecting component values.
Click to expand...

Well this is the range of those devices:

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/level5/module.jsp?moduleId=en/212166.xml


Note that the opening and closing temperatures on some of them are the wrong
way around, but I reckon that the normally open switch that will switch on
the fan at 55 degrees C and turn it off at 35, part no. 1006853, would be
ideal. 55 degrees is not going to cook any electronics and it is unlikely
that room temperature is ever going to get to 35. Case solved, one
component, no design work required, and extremely reliable.



Gareth.
 
"Dr.Hal0nf1r$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> clouded the waters of pure thought with:
§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 22:19:58 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 20:43:07 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 23:32:32 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 22:15:06 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 15:34:16 -0700
Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 16:09:53 -0500, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, snuhwolf@netscape.net (§ńühw¤Łf) got double
secret probation for writing:

Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> clouded the waters of
pure thought with:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 09:01:56 -0700, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, §ńühw¤Łf <snuhwolf@netscape.net> got
double secret probation for writing:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:35:53 +1000
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> wrote:

"Aratzio" <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote in message
news:9opi0456deigk7ihd4bq4mq3u9mar9tha3@4ax.com...
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:26:03 +1000, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, "Kadaitcha Man"
nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> got double secret
probation for writing:

"Butch Haynes" <butch@huntsville> wrote in message
news:zbmdnUfjYIjDTZXVnZ2dnUVZ_gWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
radiant_x@outgun.com> wrote in message
news:293e3140-e027-496c-89d8-27906e8991f7@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

I recently installed a DVD drive into my PC. (2 days
ago.) Since then, I get spontaneous power loss
periodically - sometimes seconds after booting, other
times after hours of operation. I've tried replacing
the power supply, and I've tried removing all my
hardware (other than RAM), so I'm thinking it must be
motherboard related.

Unplug/replug all power and data connections. That
way, the errant loose one will be fixed and your
problem will be resolved.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

Tech support by feng shui.

"I've tried removing all my hardware(other than RAM)"

Do none of them understand what that entails?


None of them understand anything.

I go toetally on into-ition.
Just do what feels good for a few hours...take out a few
cables...fondle them...blow out the dust bunnies...listen
to the Grateful Dead live at Winterland for inspiration.
Drink another beer...
Change a bunch of jumpers on the Mobo at random.
Leave shit scattered around on yer workbench and wander
away. Watch cartoons for another hour...
Come back and put it back together.
Holy Shit! Now it works.
Thats how I do it anyway.
FYI
HTH

Dunno why you geeks muck about with all that crap.

I take em out to the back 40, prop em against the side of
the gully and show them my Springfield 30-06.

BLINK
BLINK
OMG! I would never shoot a poor defenceless computer!

They always work after that.

I assume you miss...

Works good with the employees, wife and kids too.

Note to self: dont work for 'Ratz.

Never had need to actually fire the damn thing.

Interesting. So you say that pc's respond to threats of
annihilation? I've got a sledge hammer laying about...
Will it solve my booting problems?

Try steel toe caps.

That didnt help at all.

You didn't kick it hard enough.

Now it wont turn on at all.
You owe me a new computer.

You weren't supposed to kick the on/off switch; especially with
steel toe caps!

I kicked the po\/\/3r supp1y.
Smokin!

Now replace the PSU and discover that the old one was the cause of
the original fault, and now the computer works perfectly - Problem
solved.

I smoked the rest. Put it in a pipe and smoked it.
I saw ones & zeros for like six hours man!

RS232/i386 wacky backy! Cool.

It was toxic though so I died and now I'm posting from
Click to expand...
beyond the grave.

--
www.beosmaxfiles.org
 
"Robert LaCasse" <scooter@yamaha.info> wrote in message
news:stq1145dgj7fclbn2603u8c1483snejp3c@4ax.com...
On Thu, 17 Apr 2008 22:13:13 -0700, Dennis Lee Bieber
wlfraed@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

|>> The charging volts are not higher than 12.4 volts on any of the
|>> chargers....
|
|> Under voltage for charging -- even at trickle rates.

I use at least 13.5v+++
Click to expand...
IIRC the Optimate battery conditioner settles back to 13.6V float charge, at
this voltage the battery is maintained ready to go with minimal electrolyte
loss due to gassing over a long soak charge time. Some batteries have a
label "charging voltage not to exceed 14.4V", except for using a higher
voltage to revive a deep discharged/sulphated battery, those two voltage
limits serve as a good guide.
 
§nühwölf wrote:
"Dr.Hal0nf1r$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> clouded
the waters of pure thought with:
§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 22:19:58 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 20:43:07 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 23:32:32 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 22:15:06 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 15:34:16 -0700
Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 16:09:53 -0500, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, snuhwolf@netscape.net (§ńühw¤Łf) got
double secret probation for writing:

Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> clouded the waters of
pure thought with:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 09:01:56 -0700, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, §ńühw¤Łf <snuhwolf@netscape.net> got
double secret probation for writing:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:35:53 +1000
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> wrote:

"Aratzio" <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote in message
news:9opi0456deigk7ihd4bq4mq3u9mar9tha3@4ax.com...
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:26:03 +1000, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, "Kadaitcha Man"
nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> got double secret
probation for writing:

"Butch Haynes" <butch@huntsville> wrote in message
news:zbmdnUfjYIjDTZXVnZ2dnUVZ_gWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
radiant_x@outgun.com> wrote in message
news:293e3140-e027-496c-89d8-27906e8991f7@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

I recently installed a DVD drive into my PC. (2
days ago.) Since then, I get spontaneous power loss
periodically - sometimes seconds after booting,
other times after hours of operation. I've tried
replacing the power supply, and I've tried
removing all my hardware (other than RAM), so I'm
thinking it must be motherboard related.

Unplug/replug all power and data connections. That
way, the errant loose one will be fixed and your
problem will be resolved.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

Tech support by feng shui.

"I've tried removing all my hardware(other than RAM)"

Do none of them understand what that entails?


None of them understand anything.

I go toetally on into-ition.
Just do what feels good for a few hours...take out a few
cables...fondle them...blow out the dust
bunnies...listen to the Grateful Dead live at
Winterland for inspiration. Drink another beer...
Change a bunch of jumpers on the Mobo at random.
Leave shit scattered around on yer workbench and wander
away. Watch cartoons for another hour...
Come back and put it back together.
Holy Shit! Now it works.
Thats how I do it anyway.
FYI
HTH

Dunno why you geeks muck about with all that crap.

I take em out to the back 40, prop em against the side of
the gully and show them my Springfield 30-06.

BLINK
BLINK
OMG! I would never shoot a poor defenceless computer!

They always work after that.

I assume you miss...

Works good with the employees, wife and kids too.

Note to self: dont work for 'Ratz.

Never had need to actually fire the damn thing.

Interesting. So you say that pc's respond to threats of
annihilation? I've got a sledge hammer laying about...
Will it solve my booting problems?

Try steel toe caps.

That didnt help at all.

You didn't kick it hard enough.

Now it wont turn on at all.
You owe me a new computer.

You weren't supposed to kick the on/off switch; especially with
steel toe caps!

I kicked the po\/\/3r supp1y.
Smokin!

Now replace the PSU and discover that the old one was the cause of
the original fault, and now the computer works perfectly - Problem
solved.

I smoked the rest. Put it in a pipe and smoked it.
I saw ones & zeros for like six hours man!

RS232/i386 wacky backy! Cool.

It was toxic though so I died and now I'm posting from
beyond the grave.
Click to expand...
Free ghost image included too: There's value for money!

--
http://www.kustomkomputa.co.uk
- Personalised Desktop Computers
 
"EricM" <ew_morr@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:02dfaaf7-fc50-429b-b28b-a9990a805b56@c65g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 22, 11:30 am, Heinz Schmitz <HeinzSchm...@gmx.net> wrote:
EricM wrote:
Forgot to mention that the 'buzzing' only starts after the relay
closes -

Well of course it does, because before that the amp isn't working at
all. A tube amp without anode voltage is just a refined heater.

Do not forget that this is a tube device. Some of the tube cathodes
are heated with 6.3 Volts alternating current of 60 Hz. If there is a
cathode-heater-leak (due to tube age) you get AC into the signal path.

Note that the preamp stages are operated with 400 Volts off the
stabilizer circuit around V9 - V10. So have a look at C20 / C2 - they
should neutralize AC ripple there.

I'm scratching my head about connectors 3 and 4 on TS2 named
regulator filament. Somehow TS2 in the ps-schematic doesn't seem
to be TS2 in the amp schematic.

Regards,
H.

It's a separate 6.3VAC supply for just the 6DR7 tube which is in the
same circuit at the 0A2 voltage regulator, attached to 13 & 14 on the
TS in the amp. I've isolated the problem to the power amp circuit -
preamp section tests fine - and most likely something around the
voltage divider/6DR7/0A2 portion of the circuit. When the biasing pot
(25K unit in that circuit) is adjusted, the pitch of the buzz varies,
which leads me to believe that the problem is somewhere in that
circuit.
snip
Click to expand...

Altering the bias changes the standing current in the output tubes. If this
changes the *level* of the buzz, then that indicates a power supply problem,
most probably - but not necessarily, given the on-going work that's been
done around the rectifier circuitry - to do with the filter caps. If
altering the bias pot actually does affect *pitch* - ie frequency - of the
buzz, then you've got a problem, as this would indicate that something is
oscillating at low frequency ...

Arfa
 
"EricM" <ew_morr@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:02dfaaf7-fc50-429b-b28b-a9990a805b56@c65g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 22, 11:30 am, Heinz Schmitz <HeinzSchm...@gmx.net> wrote:
EricM wrote:
Forgot to mention that the 'buzzing' only starts after the relay
closes -

Well of course it does, because before that the amp isn't working at
all. A tube amp without anode voltage is just a refined heater.

Do not forget that this is a tube device. Some of the tube cathodes
are heated with 6.3 Volts alternating current of 60 Hz. If there is a
cathode-heater-leak (due to tube age) you get AC into the signal path.

Note that the preamp stages are operated with 400 Volts off the
stabilizer circuit around V9 - V10. So have a look at C20 / C2 - they
should neutralize AC ripple there.

I'm scratching my head about connectors 3 and 4 on TS2 named
regulator filament. Somehow TS2 in the ps-schematic doesn't seem
to be TS2 in the amp schematic.

Regards,
H.

It's a separate 6.3VAC supply for just the 6DR7 tube which is in the
same circuit at the 0A2 voltage regulator, attached to 13 & 14 on the
TS in the amp. I've isolated the problem to the power amp circuit -
preamp section tests fine - and most likely something around the
voltage divider/6DR7/0A2 portion of the circuit. When the biasing pot
(25K unit in that circuit) is adjusted, the pitch of the buzz varies,
which leads me to believe that the problem is somewhere in that
circuit.
snip
Click to expand...

Altering the bias changes the standing current in the output tubes. If this
changes the *level* of the buzz, then that indicates a power supply problem,
most probably - but not necessarily, given the on-going work that's been
done around the rectifier circuitry - to do with the filter caps. If
altering the bias pot actually does affect *pitch* - ie frequency - of the
buzz, then you've got a problem, as this would indicate that something is
oscillating at low frequency ...

Arfa
 
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http://www.southwestslutbags.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=dynamicalbum.UpdatesAlbum&g2_albumId=7&g2_itemId=3991

Time and time again, Amtrak and it seems other United States railroads
go for complicated redesigns or building from scratch, when proven
examples of what they mainly want are already on the shelves so to
speak.

Are US RRs that much safer than say those in France or Germany because
of the above, or is it just another attempt by the government to promote
US manufacturing?
Click to expand...
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What flickr.com doesn't want, we do! You're welcome to enjoy these
collections of images located on a public-domain website which is totally
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"Doug Smith W9WI" <w9wi@invalid.nospam> wrote in message
news:pan.2008.04.21.02.20.44.588449@invalid.nospam...
On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 16:19:10 -0400, Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 10:05:17 -0500, Doug Smith W9WI wrote:

I'm trying to repair a balky piece of ham gear... trying to check some
suspect solder connections on the back side of a board... can't figure
out how to get the board loose so I can access the back side

How about taking a picture and uploading to tinypic.com then posting the
link so I can have a look. I'm going on my 3rd decade of being a ham and
I've done a lot of repair. I think I know what you're trying to do but
would like to see before I advise.

http://www.w9wi.com/ham/ft1000mp_local_unit.JPG

A bit fuzzy but I think it's clear enough to show what kind of connector
I'm talking about.

I've seen these in Panasonic professional video gear as well but luckily
have never had to disassemble the video stuff.
Click to expand...
Here is a tip for taking close up pictures. Look for a setting called macro
on your camera. Many times they use a picture of a flower on your camera to
represent this function. It allows your camera to take clear pictures at
very close range. Your image would be more informative with a clear picture.

Mike
 
Greetings Eric..

As I look, it appears that Mouser has them all the way up to
800WVDC.

http://www.mouser.com/search/Refine.aspx?Ne=2203862+1447464&N=2203862+1323038&Ns=P_SField

In any event, even if they don't have exactly what you're looking
for, give them a call and they'll know who does OR the
manufacturer to contact.

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor



"EricM" <ew_morr@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:e5f2d728-dbf9-4360-a7db-91a8a1b494cf@c65g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
|
| Does anyone know of a good source for HV electrolytics (600 or
| above)? Or are "NOS" or eBay the only options any more? Are
any
| companies still making them in small runs for those of us who
(in
| growing numbers) are still using and preferring tube audio?
Most
| values can be found in up to 450V or 500V ranges, but most tube
setups
| use voltages around 600V and I've blown 500V units attempting
to use
| them as suitable replacements. Been able to find various
values at
| many different suppliers, but does anyone know of a good 'one
stop
| shop' for these beasts?
 
Greetings Eric..

As I look, it appears that Mouser has them all the way up to
800WVDC.

http://www.mouser.com/search/Refine.aspx?Ne=2203862+1447464&N=2203862+1323038&Ns=P_SField

In any event, even if they don't have exactly what you're looking
for, give them a call and they'll know who does OR the
manufacturer to contact.

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor



"EricM" <ew_morr@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:e5f2d728-dbf9-4360-a7db-91a8a1b494cf@c65g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
|
| Does anyone know of a good source for HV electrolytics (600 or
| above)? Or are "NOS" or eBay the only options any more? Are
any
| companies still making them in small runs for those of us who
(in
| growing numbers) are still using and preferring tube audio?
Most
| values can be found in up to 450V or 500V ranges, but most tube
setups
| use voltages around 600V and I've blown 500V units attempting
to use
| them as suitable replacements. Been able to find various
values at
| many different suppliers, but does anyone know of a good 'one
stop
| shop' for these beasts?
 
Greetings..

On the older models there is usually a mechanism to physically
open the door. I state that since some of the top of the line
more expensive (and thus exclusive) models had a servo to even
open the cassette door - however, that wasn't all that common.

Simply put, without pulling out the trusty Xcelite phillips-1
head screw driver and removing the top to actually reveal what's
going on - it's merely a guessing event. Sooner or later, you, or
someone else, is going to have to actually take a look to see
what the issue is inside the deck.

I will state that if you're not used to doing this type of work
and don't have the tools or experience to do this, save yourself
a great deal of heartache and take it to someone that HAS done
this type of work before. If it's an acquaintance, there's
nothing stating that you can't watch them as they reveal the
problem and determine the necessary steps to "fix" the anomaly.

You are correct about one thing here though, it's never a good
idea to force anything regarding an audio cassette deck.

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor



<fdmor1967@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:7099e134-a266-4f93-8911-3426976e0a7b@b1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
| Hi there,
| recently I was given a vintage Hitachi D-E65 cassette deck that
seems
| to be in pretty good shape. However once powered up in I have
found
| that I cannot get the eject button to work on the deck - it
simply
| will not open, and I do not wish to force it. There isn't a
tape
| stuck or anything like that, but the door refuses to open. Any
ideas
| what may be causing this?
| thank you!
 
Greetings "ctops.legal" et. al...

I couldn't agree with Jerry more! Even if configured for data
transfer, USB is bandwidth limited for data of any substantial
size. This is why our networks have notoriously been Ethernet
based. The good thing about two computers that sport an Ethernet
connection is you don't require a hub or a switch if you merely
want to connect the two together.

In front of me right now is a Belkin package for a CAT5e
Crossover cable M/N: T3532G/A. Many other companies are making
the same type of cable - probably for less money. Connect this
cable between two computers having an Ethernet port and you'll
typically have 10 or 100MBit/sec. connection and something less
than that regarding the actual data transfer, considering the
overhead, but it will usually be more than adequate for PC use.
This is the way to establish data transfer at a better bandwidth
with a protocol that was established for broadband reliable data
transfer.

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor


"Jerry G." <jerryg50@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ea926490-52e1-4a16-850a-f47193e799c2@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
I would not advise USB to USB to transfer files. USB was not
designed
for this.

It is best done through the Ethernet port. There is a lot of
information available about how to make a simple network between
two
computers for transfering files.


Jerry G.
-----------



On Apr 18, 2:41 pm, "ctops.legal" <ctops.le...@gmail.com> wrote:
I have a need for a site that describes this procedure, thanks
in
advance.

ctops.legal
Click to expand...
 
"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:Bw5Qj.15740$244.6022@newsfe1-win.ntli.net...
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Kn4Qj.6369$Mm1.4242@trndny07...



One thing to watch out for is the hysteresis in these devices. The
device I pointed out will turn the fan on at 30 degrees, but it won't go
off again until the temperature drops to 20. If your room is warmer
than that it will never turn off!


Gareth.



Could build something. I recall seeing some temperature controller
circuits that used a diode as the sensing element. Should be easy to
adjust the hysteresis by selecting component values.



Well this is the range of those devices:

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/level5/module.jsp?moduleId=en/212166.xml


Note that the opening and closing temperatures on some of them are the
wrong way around, but I reckon that the normally open switch that will
switch on the fan at 55 degrees C and turn it off at 35, part no. 1006853,
would be ideal. 55 degrees is not going to cook any electronics and it is
unlikely that room temperature is ever going to get to 35. Case solved,
one component, no design work required, and extremely reliable.



Gareth.
Click to expand...
If you do go down that route, I think that the sensor needs to be inside
whichever piece of your equipment generates the most heat (with the
attendant potential electrical safety issues which that may cause on a piece
of kit with a switch-mode power supply ...) because if the temperature is
going to reach 55 deg inside the glass-doored cabinet, then it's going to be
a whole bunch hotter than that inside the equipment, and trust me, that *is*
electronics 'cooking' temperature. Sort of electrolytics on toast if you
like ... :)

For me, your original power slave switch idea was the better option.

Arfa
 
"Mr. Land" <graftonfot@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:33963e36-1c90-4b75-88a8-145d4c63aa36@q27g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
Greetings,

When in use, a few of our home theater components heat up the interior
spaces of our entertainment center to a temperature that I feel is too
hot (yes, that's a very subjective statement). The entertainment
center uses tall, mostly glass doors, and they are one-piece,
therefore when they are open they protrude pretty far into the room.
When they are closed, there is little-to-no ventilation inside the
cabinets. One evening, I mustered up some courage and tried simply
leaving the doors open but sure enough, one of my kids came close to
ripping the entire door off of its hinges when she bumped into it.

Now I have a bunch of very quiet 12V computer fans in a box and, being
a long time victim of chronic tinkering disease, I was considering
installing one or two in the cabinet backs to draw hot air out. But I
know that when I am not around, no one in my family is going to take
the extra step to turn on the fans.

So I was thinking of some sort of current sensing switch to energize
the fans when the system was in use, sensing AC current draw over some
adjustable threshold value. I tried a web search and found current
sensing units, but these seemed to be industrial-quality, overkill for
my application, and well, yes, I'll admit it, it'll be more fun to
build it.

I was wondering if anyone had a pointer to a simple circuit I could
build to accomplish this.

Thanks for any help, best wishes.

Apologies if this post doesn't fall under "repair" in folks' opinions
- I suppose it could be considered "repairing" my entertainment
center...
Click to expand...
Why not just use a USB port to energise a relay or FET or whatever to turn
on the fans. The thermostat idea is better but more complicated, I guess it
comes down to your expertise or lack thereof :)

--
Cheers ............. Rheilly
 
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:4PhQj.90777$4f4.48690@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:Bw5Qj.15740$244.6022@newsfe1-win.ntli.net...

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Kn4Qj.6369$Mm1.4242@trndny07...



One thing to watch out for is the hysteresis in these devices. The
device I pointed out will turn the fan on at 30 degrees, but it won't
go off again until the temperature drops to 20. If your room is warmer
than that it will never turn off!


Gareth.



Could build something. I recall seeing some temperature controller
circuits that used a diode as the sensing element. Should be easy to
adjust the hysteresis by selecting component values.



Well this is the range of those devices:

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/level5/module.jsp?moduleId=en/212166.xml


Note that the opening and closing temperatures on some of them are the
wrong way around, but I reckon that the normally open switch that will
switch on the fan at 55 degrees C and turn it off at 35, part no.
1006853, would be ideal. 55 degrees is not going to cook any electronics
and it is unlikely that room temperature is ever going to get to 35.
Case solved, one component, no design work required, and extremely
reliable.



Gareth.


If you do go down that route, I think that the sensor needs to be inside
whichever piece of your equipment generates the most heat (with the
attendant potential electrical safety issues which that may cause on a
piece of kit with a switch-mode power supply ...) because if the
temperature is going to reach 55 deg inside the glass-doored cabinet, then
it's going to be a whole bunch hotter than that inside the equipment, and
trust me, that *is* electronics 'cooking' temperature. Sort of
electrolytics on toast if you like ... :)

For me, your original power slave switch idea was the better option.

Arfa
Click to expand...
There are probably other temperature switches without such a wide
hysteresis, like central heating room thermostats for example, or one from
an old room heater / electric fire.

I am very much of the opinion that the best solution to a problem is the
simplest, most reliable, and cheapest. A single switch fulfills all these
requirements admirably. That is all you need. There is not even the need for
a clean power supply for any electronics - the fan could just use a cheap
Wall Wart - that is a grand total of 3 components and a bit of wire.

Finding a much more complex solution, building, debugging, testing, and
re-designing it may well be a lot more fun but will ultimately always be the
second best solution to a really very simple problem.


Gareth.
 
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:4PhQj.90777$4f4.48690@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:Bw5Qj.15740$244.6022@newsfe1-win.ntli.net...

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Kn4Qj.6369$Mm1.4242@trndny07...



One thing to watch out for is the hysteresis in these devices. The
device I pointed out will turn the fan on at 30 degrees, but it won't
go off again until the temperature drops to 20. If your room is warmer
than that it will never turn off!


Gareth.



Could build something. I recall seeing some temperature controller
circuits that used a diode as the sensing element. Should be easy to
adjust the hysteresis by selecting component values.



Well this is the range of those devices:

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/level5/module.jsp?moduleId=en/212166.xml


Note that the opening and closing temperatures on some of them are the
wrong way around, but I reckon that the normally open switch that will
switch on the fan at 55 degrees C and turn it off at 35, part no.
1006853, would be ideal. 55 degrees is not going to cook any electronics
and it is unlikely that room temperature is ever going to get to 35.
Case solved, one component, no design work required, and extremely
reliable.



Gareth.


If you do go down that route, I think that the sensor needs to be inside
whichever piece of your equipment generates the most heat (with the
attendant potential electrical safety issues which that may cause on a
piece of kit with a switch-mode power supply ...) because if the
temperature is going to reach 55 deg inside the glass-doored cabinet, then
it's going to be a whole bunch hotter than that inside the equipment, and
trust me, that *is* electronics 'cooking' temperature. Sort of
electrolytics on toast if you like ... :)

For me, your original power slave switch idea was the better option.

Arfa
Click to expand...
There are probably other temperature switches without such a wide
hysteresis, like central heating room thermostats for example, or one from
an old room heater / electric fire.

I am very much of the opinion that the best solution to a problem is the
simplest, most reliable, and cheapest. A single switch fulfills all these
requirements admirably. That is all you need. There is not even the need for
a clean power supply for any electronics - the fan could just use a cheap
Wall Wart - that is a grand total of 3 components and a bit of wire.

Finding a much more complex solution, building, debugging, testing, and
re-designing it may well be a lot more fun but will ultimately always be the
second best solution to a really very simple problem.


Gareth.
 
These connectors _look_ as if they should come loose by pulling on the white
side to release them. But the image is badly blurred it's hard to tell. I'm
surprised the camera fired, given how badly out-of-focus the shot is.
 
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