Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

"Gary L. woodruff" <woodruffrepair@frontiernet.net> wrote in message
news:ORLMj.1638$Cn4.394@news02.roc.ny...
Howdy, Thanks again Mark for the advise. Am I going to measure resistance
across E-B? If so, do I have to remove the transistor so I do not seen it
in the circuit?

Thanks, Gary
Click to expand...
The (good) transistor will not affect the measurement of the 220 ohm
resistor.

Mark Z.
 
"hr(bob) hofmann@att.net" <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in message
news:6006085f-cabf-44ce-8d65-9376dc679c70@d1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
SEE THE LAST PARAGRAPH - BAD NEWS

Stating that its results had been "clouded" by adversity in the
television market, Royal Philips Electronics this morning announced
that its core profit for the first quarter fell 28% on sales that
increased just over half a percentage point.

Overall EBITA (earnings before interest, taxes, and amortization) for
the company, which includes healthcare and lighting divisions in
addition to consumer products from electric toothbrushes to
televisions, fell to EURO 265 million ($420 million) from EURO 370 million
($586 million) a year ago. Overall sales ticked up slightly to EURO 5.965
billion ($9.46 billion), compared with EURO 5.930 billion ($9.40 billion)
a year ago. The company noted that first-quarter revenue last year had
enjoyed a EURO 733 million ($1.2 billion) bump from the partial sale of
Philips' stake in TSMC (Taiwan Semiconductor Manufacturing Corp).

The Consumer Lifestyle division, which includes domestic and cosmetic
appliances as well as music players and "connected
displays" (including televisions), turned in grim results, with EBITA
down 45% to EURO 77 million ($122 million) from EURO 141 million ($223
million) in Q1 2007; sales fell 5% from EURO 2.82 billion ($4.5 billion)
to EURO 2.66 billion ($4.2 billion). The company noted that EBITA for
connected displays dropped by EURO 44 million ($70 million).

Philips intends to sign a five-year deal with Japan's Funai, which
will take over sourcing, distribution, marketing, and sales of Philips-
branded televisions in North America effective in September. Last
month, Philips also announced a further reduction of its stake in LG
Display.
Click to expand...
Any bad news for Philips is music to my ears.

Mark Z.
 
"hr(bob) hofmann@att.net" <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in message
news:6006085f-cabf-44ce-8d65-9376dc679c70@d1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
SEE THE LAST PARAGRAPH - BAD NEWS

Stating that its results had been "clouded" by adversity in the
television market, Royal Philips Electronics this morning announced
that its core profit for the first quarter fell 28% on sales that
increased just over half a percentage point.

Overall EBITA (earnings before interest, taxes, and amortization) for
the company, which includes healthcare and lighting divisions in
addition to consumer products from electric toothbrushes to
televisions, fell to EURO 265 million ($420 million) from EURO 370 million
($586 million) a year ago. Overall sales ticked up slightly to EURO 5.965
billion ($9.46 billion), compared with EURO 5.930 billion ($9.40 billion)
a year ago. The company noted that first-quarter revenue last year had
enjoyed a EURO 733 million ($1.2 billion) bump from the partial sale of
Philips' stake in TSMC (Taiwan Semiconductor Manufacturing Corp).

The Consumer Lifestyle division, which includes domestic and cosmetic
appliances as well as music players and "connected
displays" (including televisions), turned in grim results, with EBITA
down 45% to EURO 77 million ($122 million) from EURO 141 million ($223
million) in Q1 2007; sales fell 5% from EURO 2.82 billion ($4.5 billion)
to EURO 2.66 billion ($4.2 billion). The company noted that EBITA for
connected displays dropped by EURO 44 million ($70 million).

Philips intends to sign a five-year deal with Japan's Funai, which
will take over sourcing, distribution, marketing, and sales of Philips-
branded televisions in North America effective in September. Last
month, Philips also announced a further reduction of its stake in LG
Display.
Click to expand...
Any bad news for Philips is music to my ears.

Mark Z.
 
"WOLF SLAYER" <hunter@hunted.com> wrote in message
news:l7Kdnb3lvPvmv5nVnZ2dnUVZ_v6rnZ2d@giganews.com...
alcohol and cotton

blackevilweredragon@gmail.com wrote:
I got a VCR that was in a house fire, and it's video drum has smoke
damage.

It doesn't feel smooth, but isn't rough enough to where it seems to be
damaging tapes. Matter of fact, it records and plays just fine.

But I want to clean the drum. How can I clean it?

Here is the condition of the drum:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/Evilweredragon/tapehead.jpg
Click to expand...

It's been a long time since I've worked on a VCR, but I use strips of clean
white paper dipped in alcohol. Press firmly against the drum and rotate,
being careful to hold the paper still so you don't break the head chips.
Repeat with new paper until they quit getting dirty.
 
I got a VCR that was in a house fire, and it's video drum has smoke
damage.

It doesn't feel smooth, but isn't rough enough to where it seems to be
damaging tapes. Matter of fact, it records and plays just fine.

But I want to clean the drum. How can I clean it?

alcohol and cotton
Click to expand...
AACK. Everything I have ever read, warns against attempting to clean
a VCR drum or heads with cotton (*especially* not Q-tips!). There's
far too much chance of snagging the (fragile) head subassemblies with
the cotton, or leaving a few fibers in the space around the heads. A
displaced, ripped-out, or otherwise destroyed head and thus a ruined
drum are all too likely.

The procedure I have seen recommended, and have used successfully, is
to use electronics-grade isopropyl alcohol, and either a flat-head
chamois-tipped swab, or a non-woven electronic cleaning pad such as a
Chempad (these are presaturated with isopropyl). Hold the
alcohol-dampened swab or pad flat against the side of the drum, with
*gentle* pressure, and use one finger of your other hand to *slowly*
rotate the drum in its normal direction of rotation. Rotate it three
or four times, stop, remove the pad or swab, switch to the clean side
of the pad or swap (re-moisten if necessary) and repeat. Do this with
fresh swabs or pads until you get no further residue from the drum or
heads.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
 
"hr(bob) hofmann@att.net" <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in message
news:0d2791ce-c2f4-4613-9291-db691b30c378@e67g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 14, 9:04 pm, "Mark D. Zacharias" <mzachar...@nonsense.net>
wrote:
"hr(bob) hofm...@att.net" <hrhofm...@att.net> wrote in message

news:6006085f-cabf-44ce-8d65-9376dc679c70@d1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...





SEE THE LAST PARAGRAPH - BAD NEWS

Stating that its results had been "clouded" by adversity in the
television market, Royal Philips Electronics this morning announced
that its core profit for the first quarter fell 28% on sales that
increased just over half a percentage point.

Overall EBITA (earnings before interest, taxes, and amortization) for
the company, which includes healthcare and lighting divisions in
addition to consumer products from electric toothbrushes to
televisions, fell to EURO 265 million ($420 million) from EURO 370
million
($586 million) a year ago. Overall sales ticked up slightly to EURO
5.965
billion ($9.46 billion), compared with EURO 5.930 billion ($9.40
billion)
a year ago. The company noted that first-quarter revenue last year had
enjoyed a EURO 733 million ($1.2 billion) bump from the partial sale of
Philips' stake in TSMC (Taiwan Semiconductor Manufacturing Corp).

The Consumer Lifestyle division, which includes domestic and cosmetic
appliances as well as music players and "connected
displays" (including televisions), turned in grim results, with EBITA
down 45% to EURO 77 million ($122 million) from EURO 141 million ($223
million) in Q1 2007; sales fell 5% from EURO 2.82 billion ($4.5 billion)
to EURO 2.66 billion ($4.2 billion). The company noted that EBITA for
connected displays dropped by EURO 44 million ($70 million).

Philips intends to sign a five-year deal with Japan's Funai, which
will take over sourcing, distribution, marketing, and sales of Philips-
branded televisions in North America effective in September. Last
month, Philips also announced a further reduction of its stake in LG
Display.

Any bad news for Philips is music to my ears.

Mark Z.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Mark:

Ok - But it means a good product is going to be even harder to find,
Philips was not great, but better than Funai.

Bob H
Click to expand...

This is almost TOO easy...

Much of what we consider to be the poor state of the consumer electronics
industry, at least insofar as poor serviceability, cost-effectiveness of
repair, poor customer service, manufacturing in China using children and
political prisoners, shoddy manufacture, and a generally complete disregard
for the customer and servicers alike, was largely because of companies like
Philips in the first place.

Figuratively speaking, they should be hunted down around the globe like
terrorists.

In my view any good products they may have occasionally made are cancelled
out by their virtually criminal lack of support.


Mark Z.
 
<blackevilweredragon@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:7c4dbf4a-2135-4c42-bdb1-f8ecf63d7a21@24g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 15, 1:07 am, dpl...@radagast.org (Dave Platt) wrote:
I got a VCR that was in a house fire, and it's video drum has smoke
damage.

It doesn't feel smooth, but isn't rough enough to where it seems to be
damaging tapes. Matter of fact, it records and plays just fine.

But I want to clean the drum. How can I clean it?
alcohol and cotton

AACK. Everything I have ever read, warns against attempting to clean
a VCR drum or heads with cotton (*especially* not Q-tips!). There's
far too much chance of snagging the (fragile) head subassemblies with
the cotton, or leaving a few fibers in the space around the heads. A
displaced, ripped-out, or otherwise destroyed head and thus a ruined
drum are all too likely.

The procedure I have seen recommended, and have used successfully, is
to use electronics-grade isopropyl alcohol, and either a flat-head
chamois-tipped swab, or a non-woven electronic cleaning pad such as a
Chempad (these are presaturated with isopropyl). Hold the
alcohol-dampened swab or pad flat against the side of the drum, with
*gentle* pressure, and use one finger of your other hand to *slowly*
rotate the drum in its normal direction of rotation. Rotate it three
or four times, stop, remove the pad or swab, switch to the clean side
of the pad or swap (re-moisten if necessary) and repeat. Do this with
fresh swabs or pads until you get no further residue from the drum or
heads.

--
Dave Platt <dpl...@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
Click to expand...
I've tried to clean it, but nothing is coming off.. Not even the
slightest bit.

It's as if it's caked on there pretty good.,

reply:

I've found kitchen oven-cleaner very effective at removing heavy tobacco
smoke staining from parts.
Go sparingly, squirt onto copier-paper, and then use that on a test area
first, below the tape path and don't use near the tape-heads as it may be
too corrosive on the winding enamel etc, no need as by your account not
affected there anyway. Remove any remainder with some meths or alcohol,
again soaked into paper.
No cotton buds/balls at any stage, chamois is ok.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
 
<blackevilweredragon@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:7c4dbf4a-2135-4c42-bdb1-f8ecf63d7a21@24g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 15, 1:07 am, dpl...@radagast.org (Dave Platt) wrote:
I got a VCR that was in a house fire, and it's video drum has smoke
damage.

It doesn't feel smooth, but isn't rough enough to where it seems to be
damaging tapes. Matter of fact, it records and plays just fine.

But I want to clean the drum. How can I clean it?
alcohol and cotton

AACK. Everything I have ever read, warns against attempting to clean
a VCR drum or heads with cotton (*especially* not Q-tips!). There's
far too much chance of snagging the (fragile) head subassemblies with
the cotton, or leaving a few fibers in the space around the heads. A
displaced, ripped-out, or otherwise destroyed head and thus a ruined
drum are all too likely.

The procedure I have seen recommended, and have used successfully, is
to use electronics-grade isopropyl alcohol, and either a flat-head
chamois-tipped swab, or a non-woven electronic cleaning pad such as a
Chempad (these are presaturated with isopropyl). Hold the
alcohol-dampened swab or pad flat against the side of the drum, with
*gentle* pressure, and use one finger of your other hand to *slowly*
rotate the drum in its normal direction of rotation. Rotate it three
or four times, stop, remove the pad or swab, switch to the clean side
of the pad or swap (re-moisten if necessary) and repeat. Do this with
fresh swabs or pads until you get no further residue from the drum or
heads.

--
Dave Platt <dpl...@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
Click to expand...
I've tried to clean it, but nothing is coming off.. Not even the
slightest bit.

It's as if it's caked on there pretty good.,

reply:

I've found kitchen oven-cleaner very effective at removing heavy tobacco
smoke staining from parts.
Go sparingly, squirt onto copier-paper, and then use that on a test area
first, below the tape path and don't use near the tape-heads as it may be
too corrosive on the winding enamel etc, no need as by your account not
affected there anyway. Remove any remainder with some meths or alcohol,
again soaked into paper.
No cotton buds/balls at any stage, chamois is ok.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
 
<robert.janczak@poczta.fm> wrote in message
news:e80a7949-cf6c-41f6-98c1-990e85bb784d@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
Hello

I have a little problem. I've got a private firm, the area which is
surrounded by a fence. I would like to light this area with twelve
500W lamps. Could one of those wind power plants
http://www.solarus.pl/cenniki.php
handle it? Best regards.
Click to expand...



What do you mean by 500 Watt lamps? If you want to use wind power you
really want to be looking for the most efficient form of lighting first.

Gareth.
 
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:38mdnUryfM8D-ZjVnZ2dnUVZ_qelnZ2d@earthlink.com...
ChrisCoaster wrote:

It's like trying to pick out a conversation in an AIR-RAID SIREN
FACTORY!!!

Google should have some filter options so we can eliminate at least
some of these advertisements for fake Swiss watches, "Pleather"
suitases and other crap!


You just don't get it. Google is the source of all that crap, and the
longer it takes you to wade through the crap, the more money they get
for their paid advertising that is on every page you go to. If you want
to get rid of the crap dump Google groups and get an account on a real
news server.
Click to expand...
You may as well preach that to a pile of rocks, I doubt many people who are
still using google groups are ever gonna figure it out.
 
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:38mdnUryfM8D-ZjVnZ2dnUVZ_qelnZ2d@earthlink.com...
ChrisCoaster wrote:

It's like trying to pick out a conversation in an AIR-RAID SIREN
FACTORY!!!

Google should have some filter options so we can eliminate at least
some of these advertisements for fake Swiss watches, "Pleather"
suitases and other crap!


You just don't get it. Google is the source of all that crap, and the
longer it takes you to wade through the crap, the more money they get
for their paid advertising that is on every page you go to. If you want
to get rid of the crap dump Google groups and get an account on a real
news server.
Click to expand...
You may as well preach that to a pile of rocks, I doubt many people who are
still using google groups are ever gonna figure it out.
 
In article <ZIqdnev5k91T7ZjVnZ2dnUVZ_gWdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

They will, when everyone killfilkes everything from google groups.
Click to expand...
Then DO IT! Replying to them is adding to the problem.
 
"David" <someone@some-where.com> wrote in message
news:fh9Nj.1810$I55.1514@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net...
"EricM" <ew_morr@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:9c8d5b36-5f33-4ca1-9490-e28801bb9c4d@m73g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 14, 9:27 am, "David" <some...@some-where.com> wrote:
I also forgot to mention that the unit in question was
originally 6 -
1 inch square pieces in the stack, but only two
connections. The
other unit that I replaced with the 10A 600V units was
four pieces
about 1 1/8" (or just slightly larger) square, but had
three
connections. This particular unit was on the 15V side of
the supply
(filament supply for several 12 volt filament tubes) and
the 600V 10A
silicons seem to work fine. The other part of the supply
circuit -
the 600V plate supply - is where I used one of the 600V
10A jobs to
replace the 6-stack 1" square two-lead unit. Smaller but
more in the
stack must have equaled more PIV handling than the 600V
10A silicon I
put where it was (with no dropping resistor). Don't know
why it's so
hard to find info on these older rectifier units. They
hadn't gone
bad either, I'm just replacing them to prevent filling the
cutting
room with toxic stink if they should decide to fail...

I admit I am very confused at this point. The three leaded
rectifier was actually twoseleniumdiodes with a common
cathode or anode. Your replacement here should work fine but
check the filament voltage since it will be higher than
before by one or two volts. 12.6 volt tubes will not like 14
volts over a long time period.

There is no way a single 6 plate (stack)seleniumrectifier
can be a half wave rectifier for a 600 volt supply. Each
rectifier plate can withstand only about 50 reverse volts
and as others have said, you need at least three times that
for a PIV rating.

David

Here's a link to the schematic; after replacing CR1 and CR2A/B with
10 amp 600 V silicon diodes, when the relay closes to enable the 600V
plate voltage, the main power fuse F1 blows. I'm not sure I need
dropping resistors, because the output voltage on the 12.6 and -38
terminals is very close to what it should be. Is there something I'm
missing? http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/4691/1567pscb9.jpg
Thanks.

I looked at the schematic and as I suspected, none of the selenium
rectifiers are not involved in the 600 volt supply. CR2 A&B generate the
12.6 volt filament voltage and can be adjusted with R1. No problem there.
The other selenium rectifier CR1 is to generate a negative bias
supply.which is also adjustable and further clamped by Zener CR3. The high
voltage is rectified by CR4 and CR5 which, I assume are silicon diodes
that you have not touched. The diodes you used for the selenium
replacement are an overkill but should not be related to your problem. Are
you sure the -38 is really there and is in fact a minus voltage? If so, at
this point I would check the CR4 and CR5 diodes and other parts of the 600
volt circuitry to see if you blew something else when working on this
unit.

David
Click to expand...
I wonder where exactly the 600v next goes ? I see that there is a further
1:1 transformer-isolated supply to the "regulator filament". As they've gone
to this much trouble to isolate it, could it be a regulator for the 600v
maybe ??

Arfa
 
"David" <someone@some-where.com> wrote in message
news:fh9Nj.1810$I55.1514@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net...
"EricM" <ew_morr@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:9c8d5b36-5f33-4ca1-9490-e28801bb9c4d@m73g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 14, 9:27 am, "David" <some...@some-where.com> wrote:
I also forgot to mention that the unit in question was
originally 6 -
1 inch square pieces in the stack, but only two
connections. The
other unit that I replaced with the 10A 600V units was
four pieces
about 1 1/8" (or just slightly larger) square, but had
three
connections. This particular unit was on the 15V side of
the supply
(filament supply for several 12 volt filament tubes) and
the 600V 10A
silicons seem to work fine. The other part of the supply
circuit -
the 600V plate supply - is where I used one of the 600V
10A jobs to
replace the 6-stack 1" square two-lead unit. Smaller but
more in the
stack must have equaled more PIV handling than the 600V
10A silicon I
put where it was (with no dropping resistor). Don't know
why it's so
hard to find info on these older rectifier units. They
hadn't gone
bad either, I'm just replacing them to prevent filling the
cutting
room with toxic stink if they should decide to fail...

I admit I am very confused at this point. The three leaded
rectifier was actually twoseleniumdiodes with a common
cathode or anode. Your replacement here should work fine but
check the filament voltage since it will be higher than
before by one or two volts. 12.6 volt tubes will not like 14
volts over a long time period.

There is no way a single 6 plate (stack)seleniumrectifier
can be a half wave rectifier for a 600 volt supply. Each
rectifier plate can withstand only about 50 reverse volts
and as others have said, you need at least three times that
for a PIV rating.

David

Here's a link to the schematic; after replacing CR1 and CR2A/B with
10 amp 600 V silicon diodes, when the relay closes to enable the 600V
plate voltage, the main power fuse F1 blows. I'm not sure I need
dropping resistors, because the output voltage on the 12.6 and -38
terminals is very close to what it should be. Is there something I'm
missing? http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/4691/1567pscb9.jpg
Thanks.

I looked at the schematic and as I suspected, none of the selenium
rectifiers are not involved in the 600 volt supply. CR2 A&B generate the
12.6 volt filament voltage and can be adjusted with R1. No problem there.
The other selenium rectifier CR1 is to generate a negative bias
supply.which is also adjustable and further clamped by Zener CR3. The high
voltage is rectified by CR4 and CR5 which, I assume are silicon diodes
that you have not touched. The diodes you used for the selenium
replacement are an overkill but should not be related to your problem. Are
you sure the -38 is really there and is in fact a minus voltage? If so, at
this point I would check the CR4 and CR5 diodes and other parts of the 600
volt circuitry to see if you blew something else when working on this
unit.

David
Click to expand...
I wonder where exactly the 600v next goes ? I see that there is a further
1:1 transformer-isolated supply to the "regulator filament". As they've gone
to this much trouble to isolate it, could it be a regulator for the 600v
maybe ??

Arfa
 
<robert.janczak@poczta.fm> wrote in message
news:e80a7949-cf6c-41f6-98c1-990e85bb784d@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
Hello

I have a little problem. I've got a private firm, the area which is
surrounded by a fence. I would like to light this area with twelve
500W lamps. Could one of those wind power plants
http://www.solarus.pl/cenniki.php
handle it? Best regards.
Click to expand...
Well, I guess that the 10kW one could, with a bit to spare, assuming that
it's going to be located on top of a mountain in Scotland ... :)

Arfa
 
<robert.janczak@poczta.fm> wrote in message
news:e80a7949-cf6c-41f6-98c1-990e85bb784d@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
Hello

I have a little problem. I've got a private firm, the area which is
surrounded by a fence. I would like to light this area with twelve
500W lamps. Could one of those wind power plants
http://www.solarus.pl/cenniki.php
handle it? Best regards.
Click to expand...
Well, I guess that the 10kW one could, with a bit to spare, assuming that
it's going to be located on top of a mountain in Scotland ... :)

Arfa
 
Its a bit more complicated than just hooking a generator up to a lamp and
waiting for wind. Uunless you want unreliable variable brightness whenever
mother nature feels like giving it to you.

Think of it this way. You want to operate a 6000W load for say 8 hours,
thats 48kWh of energy you need to store and deliver on demand. So now you
need a battery pack that can hold that much energy and a power converter to
charge it and convert it back to whatever your lamps need (wise to use 12VDC
lamps and avoid an inverter alltogether). If all you wanted was one hour of
12V lighting then that 6000W will need a 500Ah battery and for 8 hours you
need 2000Ah of battery capacity. Thats probably what 2-4 car batteries to
be safe (my guess).

Now you need to be able to charge that battery during the daytime before you
turn the lamps on and any more wind you get at night can reduce that
requirement by a fraction. a 5KW generator running at peak power (quite
breezy) will charge that battery bank in 9.6 hours of continuous wind. a
10kW generator in half the time but requiring more wind force.

Derate that whole calculation by the reliability of your wind. or that
fraction of the average day when enough wind is present to operate the
windmill at peak power.

So it all depends on how long you want the lights on and how reliable the
wind is at that location. If it is unreliable and you want 12 hours of
light, you will need a 15kW generator for par. A bigger battery pack and a
fair start with a full charge will extend lighting time for occasional
windless days and nights but on average you need to replenish 110% of the
power you deliver to the load with newly generated power (10% estimated for
losses in conversion). A similar process is used to evaluate PV as well.

500W of incandescent or halogen lighting is inefficient, ballasted halide or
fluorescent lighting (anything called high efficiency or HE) will put out as
many lumens for less watts. When evaluating the best type of lamp consider
the lumens par watt, bulb lifetime and compatibility of the bulb voltage
with your system voltage. Some lighting has a turn on surge current rating
you need to account for at some level of the design






<robert.janczak@poczta.fm> wrote in message
news:e80a7949-cf6c-41f6-98c1-990e85bb784d@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
Hello

I have a little problem. I've got a private firm, the area which is
surrounded by a fence. I would like to light this area with twelve
500W lamps. Could one of those wind power plants
http://www.solarus.pl/cenniki.php
handle it? Best regards.
Click to expand...
 
"pipedown" <pipedown@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:%vsNj.1821$pS4.1264@newssvr13.news.prodigy.net...
Its a bit more complicated than just hooking a generator up to a lamp and
waiting for wind. Uunless you want unreliable variable brightness
whenever mother nature feels like giving it to you.

Think of it this way. You want to operate a 6000W load for say 8 hours,
thats 48kWh of energy you need to store and deliver on demand. So now you
need a battery pack that can hold that much energy and a power converter
to charge it and convert it back to whatever your lamps need (wise to use
12VDC lamps and avoid an inverter alltogether). If all you wanted was one
hour of 12V lighting then that 6000W will need a 500Ah battery and for 8
hours you need 2000Ah of battery capacity. Thats probably what 2-4 car
batteries to be safe (my guess).
Click to expand...
It's a lot more than that. A typical deep cycle marine/RV battery is about
80Ah. Fortunately the battery only needs to have enough capacity to carry
over during times when there isn't adequate wind.



500W of incandescent or halogen lighting is inefficient, ballasted halide
or fluorescent lighting (anything called high efficiency or HE) will put
out as many lumens for less watts. When evaluating the best type of lamp
consider the lumens par watt, bulb lifetime and compatibility of the bulb
voltage with your system voltage. Some lighting has a turn on surge
current rating you need to account for at some level of the design
Click to expand...

Usage pattern also needs to be taken into consideration. HID lamps (of which
metal halide is one) don't like to be power cycled. They take several
minutes to warm up, and if shut off, need several minutes to cool down
before they will restart.
 
"pipedown" <pipedown@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:%vsNj.1821$pS4.1264@newssvr13.news.prodigy.net...
Its a bit more complicated than just hooking a generator up to a lamp and
waiting for wind. Uunless you want unreliable variable brightness
whenever mother nature feels like giving it to you.

Think of it this way. You want to operate a 6000W load for say 8 hours,
thats 48kWh of energy you need to store and deliver on demand. So now you
need a battery pack that can hold that much energy and a power converter
to charge it and convert it back to whatever your lamps need (wise to use
12VDC lamps and avoid an inverter alltogether). If all you wanted was one
hour of 12V lighting then that 6000W will need a 500Ah battery and for 8
hours you need 2000Ah of battery capacity. Thats probably what 2-4 car
batteries to be safe (my guess).
Click to expand...
It's a lot more than that. A typical deep cycle marine/RV battery is about
80Ah. Fortunately the battery only needs to have enough capacity to carry
over during times when there isn't adequate wind.



500W of incandescent or halogen lighting is inefficient, ballasted halide
or fluorescent lighting (anything called high efficiency or HE) will put
out as many lumens for less watts. When evaluating the best type of lamp
consider the lumens par watt, bulb lifetime and compatibility of the bulb
voltage with your system voltage. Some lighting has a turn on surge
current rating you need to account for at some level of the design
Click to expand...

Usage pattern also needs to be taken into consideration. HID lamps (of which
metal halide is one) don't like to be power cycled. They take several
minutes to warm up, and if shut off, need several minutes to cool down
before they will restart.
 
"EricM" <ew_morr@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:d7b5a135-5453-4ec4-8324-436416d0cc20@d1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 16, 4:01 am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
"David" <some...@some-where.com> wrote in message

news:fh9Nj.1810$I55.1514@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net...





"EricM" <ew_m...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:9c8d5b36-5f33-4ca1-9490-e28801bb9c4d@m73g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 14, 9:27 am, "David" <some...@some-where.com> wrote:
I also forgot to mention that the unit in question was
originally 6 -
1 inch square pieces in the stack, but only two
connections. The
other unit that I replaced with the 10A 600V units was
four pieces
about 1 1/8" (or just slightly larger) square, but had
three
connections. This particular unit was on the 15V side of
the supply
(filament supply for several 12 volt filament tubes) and
the 600V 10A
silicons seem to work fine. The other part of the supply
circuit -
the 600V plate supply - is where I used one of the 600V
10A jobs to
replace the 6-stack 1" square two-lead unit. Smaller but
more in the
stack must have equaled more PIV handling than the 600V
10A silicon I
put where it was (with no dropping resistor). Don't know
why it's so
hard to find info on these older rectifier units. They
hadn't gone
bad either, I'm just replacing them to prevent filling the
cutting
room with toxic stink if they should decide to fail...

I admit I am very confused at this point. The three leaded
rectifier was actually twoseleniumdiodes with a common
cathode or anode. Your replacement here should work fine but
check the filament voltage since it will be higher than
before by one or two volts. 12.6 volt tubes will not like 14
volts over a long time period.

There is no way a single 6 plate (stack)seleniumrectifier
can be a half wave rectifier for a 600 volt supply. Each
rectifier plate can withstand only about 50 reverse volts
and as others have said, you need at least three times that
for a PIV rating.

David

Here's a link to the schematic; after replacing CR1 and CR2A/B with
10 amp 600 V silicon diodes, when the relay closes to enable the 600V
plate voltage, the main power fuse F1 blows. I'm not sure I need
dropping resistors, because the output voltage on the 12.6 and -38
terminals is very close to what it should be. Is there something I'm
missing?http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/4691/1567pscb9.jpg
Thanks.

I looked at the schematic and as I suspected, none of theselenium
rectifiers are not involved in the 600 volt supply. CR2 A&B generate
the
12.6 volt filament voltage and can be adjusted with R1. No problem
there.
The otherseleniumrectifier CR1 is to generate a negative bias
supply.which is also adjustable and further clamped by Zener CR3. The
high
voltage is rectified by CR4 and CR5 which, I assume are silicon diodes
that you have not touched. The diodes you used for theselenium
replacement are an overkill but should not be related to your problem.
Are
you sure the -38 is really there and is in fact a minus voltage? If so,
at
this point I would check the CR4 and CR5 diodes and other parts of the
600
volt circuitry to see if you blew something else when working on this
unit.

David

I wonder where exactly the 600v next goes ? I see that there is a further
1:1 transformer-isolated supply to the "regulator filament". As they've
gone
to this much trouble to isolate it, could it be a regulator for the 600v
maybe ??

Arfa

Here's a link to the rest of the device; the vacuum tube amplifier
http://www.mediafire.com/?zdmyygvyfxn It's a large image in order to
be able to scale it so you can see what's what so I needed to do
a .pdf.
Click to expand...
Assuming that the power supply runs without blowing the fuse, when it is
disconnected from the power amp, then looking at the schematic, it seems to
me that tracking down the problem will be relatively simple. But before
going any further down that route, can we get a bit clearer on how exactly
you have gotten to the point that you are at now? First, did the psu / amp
combination ever work before you started work on it, or has it been blowing
fuses all along ? The LT selenium reccies that you replaced just for
reliability's sake can be discounted I think. What was the reasoning behind
replacing the HT rectifier packs ? As you imply that these are differently
wired from the originals, could this be anything to do with the current
problems ? I'm sure that you have described some of this reasoning elsewhere
in the thread in odd bits, but it would be helpful if you could just go
through the whole of how you have reached the point you are now at, all in
one go.

Arfa
 
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