Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[JakTheHammer]

On Feb 25, 3:33�am, Michae� A. Terrell <mike.temr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:

"Phil Allison" <philalli...@tpg.com.au> wrote in messagenews:62ec42F237c9dU1@mid.individual.net...

"Jak The Fuckwit Retard "

200MA sounds like a lot of continuous current for AA batteries.

** �Not true at all.

The common Energizer E91 alkalines will run 6 to 8 hours at 200mA ďż˝-
depending on what end voltage is OK.

NiMH AA cells could bring that up to 12 hours or more.

Maybe �you need a NICAD or NIMH rechargeable to maintain the operation
while changing batteries.

** One could switch over to a 9 volt battery to hold up the supply while
replacing in AAs.

But then how do you know that the primary batteries are ready to go?

** �Bout the only way to do that reliably is to use NiMH AA cells and
have a
strict routine of replacing them with a freshly recharged set every 8 to
10
hours.

You too have a funny sound.

** �LOL �- � this asinine prick sounds like a

STEAMING ďż˝ GREAT ďż˝ FUCKWIT ďż˝!!!

Battery doesn't dictate the current draw,

** �Err �- �where did I say otherwise �???

ďż˝ FUCKWIT ďż˝!!!!!!

....... ďż˝ Phil

JakTheHammer ID maybe forged, watch out when the real JackTheHammer comes in, you all will be wiped out. �He's a real tiger!

--
�Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

�Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's FUN kicking your Mizerable Ass, GregoryMorrow at
earthlink.net............You've been Impostering Hundreds of
Identities all over Usenet...........Now the REAL JakTheHammer is
going to HAMMER your Sick Ass.........Donchaknow............You
Demented, Insane Bastard...........

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

"JakTheHammer" <jakthhmmr@aol.com> wrote in message
news:74df0779-f772-48fc-8cfd-b537f874e5fc@e23g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
On Feb 25, 3:33?am, Michae? A. Terrell <mike.temr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:

"Phil Allison" <philalli...@tpg.com.au> wrote in
messagenews:62ec42F237c9dU1@mid.individual.net...

"Jak The Fuckwit Retard "

200MA sounds like a lot of continuous current for AA batteries.

** ?Not true at all.

The common Energizer E91 alkalines will run 6 to 8 hours at 200mA
?-
depending on what end voltage is OK.

NiMH AA cells could bring that up to 12 hours or more.

Maybe ?you need a NICAD or NIMH rechargeable to maintain the
operation
while changing batteries.

** One could switch over to a 9 volt battery to hold up the
supply while
replacing in AAs.

But then how do you know that the primary batteries are ready to
go?

** ?Bout the only way to do that reliably is to use NiMH AA cells
and
have a
strict routine of replacing them with a freshly recharged set
every 8 to
10
hours.

You too have a funny sound.

** ?LOL ?- ? this asinine prick sounds like a

STEAMING ? GREAT ? FUCKWIT ?!!!

Battery doesn't dictate the current draw,

** ?Err ?- ?where did I say otherwise ????

? FUCKWIT ?!!!!!!

....... ? Phil

JakTheHammer ID maybe forged, watch out when the real JackTheHammer
comes in, you all will be wiped out. ?He's a real tiger!

--
?Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214
to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

?Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's FUN kicking your Mizerable Ass, GregoryMorrow at
earthlink.net............You've been Impostering Hundreds of
Identities all over Usenet...........Now the REAL JakTheHammer is
going to HAMMER your Sick Ass.........Donchaknow............You
Demented, Insane Bastard...........



Oh JakTheHumburger.... Who is really Mizerable butt? Have your check
your end lately? Little Yak?



--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
disprove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[John]

On Sat 16 Feb 2008 23:08:42, Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
<donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

On Sat, 16 Feb 2008 22:57:32 GMT, Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer
Coordinator wrote:
I would guess any engineer should be able to tell us what this
41,045 magic number really is.

I'm surprised a chemist or engineer isn't on this group.

I think this is the fundamental answer!

page 11, Water Heating Calculations
http://www.green-trust.org/2000/solar/solar.pdf
43,302 kJ/day is 41,045 Btu/day is the energy delivered to the hot
water load per day

And, this one says most plumbers don't understand the efficiency
factor for home water heaters

Residential Gas Water Heating:
Program Design & Specification Considerations, page 6
http://www.cee1.org/cee/mtg/09-07ppt/Tuesday/6%20Residential%
20%20Gas%20water%20heating.ppt
Annual Savings (Therms/year) is based on
the DOE Test Procedure: (41,045 Btu/EF*365)/100,000

Boing!! Payoff.

You tell 'em Donna. Show them you knew the answer all along.

Poor "58plumbers@gmail.com" and others like him now don't know what's
hit them.

Nothing like reeling in a very long fishing line that you've
carefully laid out. Good one!!

 

[John]

On Mon 18 Feb 2008 15:16:55, Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
<donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 05:29:11 -0800 (PST), N8N wrote:
I just replaced the anodes ... on two ancient (80's) water heaters
it turns out that they were both still in good shape

Hi Nate,

That brings up the first (of many) questions that arose when we
replaced our hot water heater (with your help) yesterday ...

1. I agree, while replacing the altruistic anode is a "good thing"
...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2086/2274079124_f60ec145cf.
jpg?v=0

The problem I found is ...

2. Even Superman couldn't would have a tough time removing mine ...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2033/2274085498_52c3b7d618.jpg
?v=0

Given it took a pipe wrench plus a huge cheater bar to remove the
anode with the water heater removed and blocked on the ground ...
and given that any in-place plumbing and vent ducts would have
severely hampered access ... and given that a water heater isn't
rigidly "mounted" ... I wonder ...

Can anyone really expect to remove the anode when it needs
inspection? Why don't they provide TWO HOLES so you can add a
second anode when needed?

Donna
http://www.flickr.com/donnaohl

Hello Donna, you seem to have learnt quite a surprsing amount for
someone who has was a novice just a few weeks ago and who does not
have a background in mechanical engineering.

I'm impressed.

Or i would be impressed if I could believe it but I am afrain I can't
beleieve it.

What did you say was your line of work?

If you have time when you're not posting extended posts to a "quick
and basic" question?

 

[John]

On Thu 21 Feb 2008 15:01:43, Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
<donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

Following is a idealized anatomy of a hot water heater replacement
and recommended maintenance performed, basically, on the Internet,
in real time, with the help of everyone here.

This procedure, which combines the best found on the Internet and
which takes into account *every* single of the hundreds of replies
in this newsgroup, is posted with the hope that the next amateur
replacing their natural gas galvanized pipe home hot water heater
prints this out and follows it to their delight and benefit!

A complete set of photos of every step below is available at
http://www.flickr.com/donnaohl

Here it is... this is an idealized version of my experience last
week!

If you have old galvanized pipes, consider these preventive steps:
- Remove all debris screens from faucets, & tubs to prevent
clogging - Shut water to dishwaswher to prevent clogging of
dishwasher screens - Remove tub valves (I think) to prevent
clogging of tubs

Remove the hot-water heater:
- Shut off the natural gas at the main gas meter (optional)
- Shut off the natural gas at the local hot-water heater
(mandatory) - Wait for the pilot light to go out to ensure no gas
is left in the line - Turn the thermostat on the hot-water heater
to the off position - Wait overnight, if possible, to allow the hot
water in the tank to cool - Or run 10 or 20 gallons of hot water in
the house to dilute the tank - You will be very glad you cooled the
water in the tank: Trust me! - Shut off the main household cold
water (if replacing the gate valve) - Shut the cold-water
gate-valve right-side inlet to the hot-water heater - Open at least
one hot-water faucet in the house to drain off pressure - Open the
temperature and pressure valve as a safety measure (optional) -
Unscrew the cold-water inlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Unscrew the hot-water outlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Use two wrenches on flex connectors or they twist like a phone
cord! - Unscrew the natural gas inlet to the water-heater
thermostat - Cap the newly disconnected natural gas line to prevent
contamination - Connect a garden hose to the plastic
hot-water-heater drain valve - Open drain valve to drain hot water
where it will not damage anything - If 40/50 gallons doesn't come
out something is clogged (very common) - Shake and prod and push to
get the water out (it happened to me) - Otherwise you'll be moving
a full tank which can tip (it happened to me) - Disconnect garden
hose and close drain valve when done (40 or 50 gallons) - Unscrew
the sheet-metal screw holding the vent pipe to the draft hood -
Separate the vent pipe from the draft hood (the hat on top middle)
- Unscrew sheet-metal screws holding gas-flue hat onto the vent
pipe - Separate the vent pipe from the gas-flue hat on top center
of your heater - Unscrew the seismic straps (if any) as the last
thing before removal - Remove old heater off the elevated base with
two people and a handtruck - Remove all water plumbing up to and
including the old shut-off valve - Remove all gas plumbing up to
and including the old shut-off valve

Replace hot-water heater:
WHILE THE NEW TANK IS SITTING (DRY) ON THE GARAGE FLOOR:
- Remove the heater from the box by cutting the box completely
open - Replace the plastic drain valve with a brass ball valve
(optional) - Install the new temperature and pressure (T&P) relief
valve (if needed) - Note: The brass T&P relief valve may already be
installed on your tank - Install the cold water dialectric
check-valve nipple (on the top right) - Install the hot water
dialectric ckeck-valve nipple (on the top left) - Note: The 2
check-valve nipples may already be installed on your tank. - Wrap
three layers of teflon tape on each dialectric check-valve nipple
- Remember: Always use 2 wrenches when screwing & unscrewing pipe
fittings!

MOUNT THE TANK & POSITION THE VENT AND HOOD:
- Mount and level the new hot water heater on the 18-inch elevated
base - Ensure at least six inches of clear space all around the new
heater - Hacksaw the old gas vent so that it fits the new larger
water heater - Ensure the gas vent aligns with the center of the
hot-water heater - Insert legs of the draft hood into the holes in
the top of the heater - Drill a 1/8 inch hole into the draft hood
and 3-inch vent pipe - Screw in at least 1 sheet-metal screw from
the vent hood to the vent pipe

ATTACH THE COLD WATER INLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the
tank - Insert a blue heat-trap fitting (arrow down) into the
cold-water inlet - Ensure the last two threads are never covered
with Teflon tape - Look end-on through all fittings to ensure no
Teflon tape overlap - Do not use pipe dope on any threads where
Teflon tape is noted below - Screw the cold-water inlet male:male
nipple into the top of the tank - Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of
the galvanized 3/4" water-inlet pipe - Screw a dialectric union on
the 3/4" galvanized cold-water inlet pipe - Check for Teflon tape
on the threads of each male:male brass nipple - Screw the brass
male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union - Screw a
new ball-valve shutoff onto this vertical cold-water inlet pipe -
Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the cold-water inlet brass
nipples

ATTACH THE HOT WATER OUTLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the
tank - Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon
tape - Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is
noted below - Insert a red heat-trap fitting (arrow up) into the
tank hot-water outlet - Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the
galvanized 3/4" water-outlet pipe - Screw a dialectric union on the
3/4" galvanized hot-water outlet pipe - Wrap Teflon tape on the
threads of each male:male brass nipple - Screw the brass male:male
nipple on the female:female dialectric union - Screw a new one-way
check-valve onto this vertical hot-water outlet pipe - Wrap Teflon
tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple - Screw this
male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff - Screw the copper
flex pipe onto the hot-water inlet brass nipples - Bend the copper
flex pipe into an S shape to further inhibit heat loss

ATTACH THE T&P SAFETY PIPE:
- Screw on rigid high-temperature water pipe to the T&P valve
- The open outlet must be six inches (no more, no less) from the
floor - The open outlet must not be threaded; no valves or traps
are allowed - Place a bowl or bucket at the outlet of this open
overflow pipe - Test the T&P valve & plumbing by flipping the
little aluminum lever - Scalding hot water should sputter out of
the pipe outlet

TURN ON THE WATER SUPPLY:
- Optionally, remove all the screens from your water faucets
- Optionally, shut off the water to your dishwasher to prevent
clogging - Optionally, remove the shower heads to prevent clogging
- I'm not sure what to remove yet to prevent your tub from clogging
- Open at least one hot-water faucet in the house to bleed out air
- Slowly open the main cold-water input to the house
- Open the new ball-valve cold-water input to the hot-water heater
- Check for leaks in the plumbing as the tank fills
- Place a pan or bowl at the T&P overflow tube & test the T&P valve

ATTACH THE NATURAL GAS INLET:
- Always connect the natural gas line as the very last step in this
process - Set the thermostat on the hot-water heater to the off
position - Coat male natural gas line threads with stick pipe dope
(no teflon) - Ensure the last two threads are not covered with any
pipe dope - Connect the new (yellow) natural gas flex pipe to the
thermostat - Turn on natural gas at the main switch (if it was
turned off) - Turn on natural gas at the local inlet to the water
heater - Test for leaks by toothbrushing a solution of dish
detergent and water - Read and carefully follow the manufacturer's
lighting instructions

INSULATION:
- Wrap additional insulation around your hot-water heater, if
desired - Wrap insulation around your hot-water outlet pipe, if
desired

DISPOSAL:
- Perform an autopsy on the old water heater by removing all
plumbing - Remove & inspect the 1 1/16 inch 3-foot 8-inch
sacrificial anode - Remove & inspect the T&P valve
- Call the local garbage or recycling to haul away the old water
heater

Twice a year:
- Clint combusion-air lint screens (at the bottom inch of the water
heater) - Place a pan or bowl at the temperature & pressure valve
overflow tube - Test the T&P valve by flipping the lever as water
violently sputters out - Turn the natural gas to the PILOT setting
(or shut it off completely) - Leave the cold-water intake valve
open at the top right of the heater - Open at least one hot-water
faucet on any level above the water heater - Gently connect a
garden hose to your hot water heater drain valve - Route the open
end of the garden hose where hot water won't damage things - Open
the lower drain valve to empty a few gallons of muddy hot water -
Shut the drain valve when that water runs clear (approx 10 gallons)
- Once every three years, remove the 1 1/16-inch sacrificial anode
- Replace the 3'8" sacrificial anode if corroded or calcium
passivated - To replace, bend the magnesium anode or replace with
sausage links - Turn the natural gas back on and ensure the burner
is working properly

Donna, do you think the other people who have posted to help you
actually suspect what is going on?

Some must have realized it by now. Do you think they are just
keeping quiet?

 

[John]

On Tue 19 Feb 2008 16:33:27, Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
<donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 16:06:39 GMT, John wrote:
Nice start. "Quick". "Basic".
Good words to reel in the punters.

Dear John,

Did you actually *read* the thread?

Hello Donna, yes I read the thread with interest. It's a great one.
You must make room for it in your scrap book as this thread is one of
your better victories.

If you did, you'll note that this group moved a novice from a leaky
water heater to someone who became rather knowledgeable in how to
purchase a water heater, how to calculate costs and tradeoffs, what
to modify on the new water heater, what the warranty does and does
not offer, what materiel is required and how much it costs, what
are some of the pitfalls of installing a water heater on your own,
an autopsy of the old water heater, detailed complete photos (I
took hundreds and posted more than 50 for all to see) for a public
assessment of the work performed, and I posted dozens of PDFs and
links to key literature explaining things like how teflon doesn't
affect the electrical connection, how the government calculates
average household usage, how much a tenth of an EF point really
means in dollars (about $5/year), how to adjust seismic straps,
etc.

I find it very strange that a simple thread took such a long convoluted
route as you describe. You start off by knowing nothing and you end up
by telling specialists what various things are after you have asked them
several times (like the origin of 41,045).

Lovely. Alleged "little old lady" ends up telling the engineers the
information they do not know.

You outclass many of these guys so where was the fun in stringing them
along?

I asked. I responded. I was courteous. I was timely.
We took your advice. We did the work. I posted pictures of the
results. I responded to each and every comment that suggested a
response.

Yes, I love the photos. Thet're a very, very nice touch. They kind of
add a whole new false realism to your claim to who you are and your
sincerity.

Well, almost anyway.

Makes them believe more and more that you are Donna just as you state
you are. Nice.

And I plan on redoing some of the work as a result (e.g. the
flexible gas line and the drain bib and the overflow pipe, etc.).

If I received help, I thank the group for that. If I sound
knowledgeable, and if that offends you, it's only because of the
kind help from this group and from my research.

Let's do a sanity check. What is all this about?

Er, well now it seems to have mysteriously morphed from what it started
out as until it has become unrecognisable.

Main thing is how much time from others it has taken. Lovely. Greatest
shaggy dog thread I have seen in a while.

 

[cavedweller]

On Feb 27, 4:56 pm, John <n...@email.com> wrote:

Donna, do you think the other people who have posted to help you
actually suspect what is going on?

Some must have realized ...

Maybe, maybe not...but John, you're quite late with this post. Please
do try to keep up. Bill does.

 

[Ron(UK)]

TomFred wrote:
<some compressed pink spiced meat product>

Shirley an 'edge cutting laser' would make holes in the screen?


Ron(UK)

 

[PeterD]

On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 11:58:19 +0000, "Ron(UK)"
<ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote:

TomFred wrote:
some compressed pink spiced meat product

Shirley an 'edge cutting laser' would make holes in the screen?


Ron(UK)

Only along the edges...

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"PeterD" <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in message
news:tohds399sqkh3s4bvlh9rvfk704age1l8n@4ax.com...

On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 11:58:19 +0000, "Ron(UK)"
ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote:

TomFred wrote:
some compressed pink spiced meat product

Shirley an 'edge cutting laser' would make holes in the screen?


Ron(UK)

Only along the edges...

Thtas great.

 

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[Allodoxaphobia]

On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 11:58:19 +0000, Ron(UK) wrote:

TomFred wrote:
some compressed pink spiced meat product

Shirley an 'edge cutting laser' would make holes in the screen?

I don't believe the spammer's name is Shirley.

 

[Ron(UK)]

Allodoxaphobia wrote:

On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 11:58:19 +0000, Ron(UK) wrote:
TomFred wrote:
some compressed pink spiced meat product

Shirley an 'edge cutting laser' would make holes in the screen?

I don't believe the spammer's name is Shirley.

Roger on that

 

[gonzo]

Ron(UK) wrote:

Allodoxaphobia wrote:
On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 11:58:19 +0000, Ron(UK) wrote:
TomFred wrote:
some compressed pink spiced meat product

Shirley an 'edge cutting laser' would make holes in the screen?

I don't believe the spammer's name is Shirley.

Roger on that

........and don't call me Shirley.......

 

[PeterD]

On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 22:14:46 -0000, "gonzo"
<youmustbejoking@bite.my.ass.net> wrote:

Ron(UK) wrote:
Allodoxaphobia wrote:
On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 11:58:19 +0000, Ron(UK) wrote:
TomFred wrote:
some compressed pink spiced meat product

Shirley an 'edge cutting laser' would make holes in the screen?

I don't believe the spammer's name is Shirley.

Roger on that

.......and don't call me Shirley.......

Roger that.

 

[Jim Thompson]

<mad.scientist.jr@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:822b2e22-260a-4ed7-ad34-3232bb35e76e@e25g2000prg.googlegroups.com...

I need to display the numbers 0-255 in decimal on a 3-digit LED
display for a microcontroller project (it would need to be visible in
the dark). Ideally the display would be inexpensive and not take up
too many uC outputs, but what I am finding is expensive ($30 or more).
Does anyone make an inexpensive 3-digit 7-segment LED module that
accepts serial input from say, a PICAXE or a BASIC Stamp 2? Also I
haven't done anything using serial i/o yet but I saw some displays
that had a "clock" pin (so the controller can sync up the data stream
with the module). Would I need to get a clock module for the basic
stamp to talk to the display module? What would a good one be? Can you
build a reliable clock for less using a 555 timer? I as thinking about
how such a device might work without a clock and thought of a way to
do it with 2 lines output, 0-0 would mean no data, 0-1 would mean here
comes some data, 1-0 would mean low, 1-1 would mean high. The display
module would consist of a microcontroller with 2 inputs and 12 outputs
(3 groups of 4 outputs going to a 7-segment encoder IC to drive each
digit). Is this a decent solution or unnecessary? Any advice or links
to a good example would be appreciated... Thanks.

Save your cash, forget electronic toys, you will be starved.. Only buy what
you need. Take me for example, I am out of job, I have to post my fancy ad
at the bottom of my post every time. Go figure.



...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et moi
|
|
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASICK's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Rat Bastard |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

America: Land of the Freedom Abusers, Because of the Bastards.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

"Jim Thompson" wrote in message news:fq7gu2$f6j$2@aioe.org...>
<mad.scientist.jr@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:822b2e22-260a-4ed7-ad34-3232bb35e76e@e25g2000prg.googlegroups.com...

I need to display the numbers 0-255 in decimal on a 3-digit LED
display for a microcontroller project (it would need to be visible in
the dark). Ideally the display would be inexpensive and not take up
too many uC outputs, but what I am finding is expensive ($30 or more).
Does anyone make an inexpensive 3-digit 7-segment LED module that
accepts serial input from say, a PICAXE or a BASIC Stamp 2? Also I
haven't done anything using serial i/o yet but I saw some displays
that had a "clock" pin (so the controller can sync up the data stream
with the module). Would I need to get a clock module for the basic
stamp to talk to the display module? What would a good one be? Can you
build a reliable clock for less using a 555 timer? I as thinking about
how such a device might work without a clock and thought of a way to
do it with 2 lines output, 0-0 would mean no data, 0-1 would mean here
comes some data, 1-0 would mean low, 1-1 would mean high. The display
module would consist of a microcontroller with 2 inputs and 12 outputs
(3 groups of 4 outputs going to a 7-segment encoder IC to drive each
digit). Is this a decent solution or unnecessary? Any advice or links
to a good example would be appreciated... Thanks.

You sure ask a lot of questions for someone from New Jersey.

Save your cash, forget electronic toys, you will be starved. Only buy what
you need. Take me for example, I am out of job, I have to post my fancy ad
at the bottom of my post every time. Go figure.

Analog/Mixed-Signal ASICK's and Discrete Systems

Is that a joke?

Why has no one ever pointed out that ASICs are actually AN-SICs?

 

[MooseFET]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:a76dnQoItejRzFranZ2dnUVZ_ternZ2d@comcast.com...

"Jim Thompson" wrote in message news:fq7gu2$f6j$2@aioe.org...
mad.scientist.jr@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:822b2e22-260a-4ed7-ad34-3232bb35e76e@e25g2000prg.googlegroups.com...

I need to display the numbers 0-255 in decimal on a 3-digit LED
display for a microcontroller project (it would need to be visible in
the dark). Ideally the display would be inexpensive and not take up
too many uC outputs, but what I am finding is expensive ($30 or more).
Does anyone make an inexpensive 3-digit 7-segment LED module that
accepts serial input from say, a PICAXE or a BASIC Stamp 2? Also I
haven't done anything using serial i/o yet but I saw some displays
that had a "clock" pin (so the controller can sync up the data stream
with the module). Would I need to get a clock module for the basic
stamp to talk to the display module? What would a good one be? Can you
build a reliable clock for less using a 555 timer? I as thinking about
how such a device might work without a clock and thought of a way to
do it with 2 lines output, 0-0 would mean no data, 0-1 would mean here
comes some data, 1-0 would mean low, 1-1 would mean high. The display
module would consist of a microcontroller with 2 inputs and 12 outputs
(3 groups of 4 outputs going to a 7-segment encoder IC to drive each
digit). Is this a decent solution or unnecessary? Any advice or links
to a good example would be appreciated... Thanks.

You sure ask a lot of questions for someone from New Jersey.


Save your cash, forget electronic toys, you will be starved. Only buy
what
you need. Take me for example, I am out of job, I have to post my fancy
ad
at the bottom of my post every time. Go figure.

Analog/Mixed-Signal ASICK's and Discrete Systems

Is that a joke?

Why has no one ever pointed out that ASICs are actually AN-SICs?

Because Jim and I are retarded bastards. Your definition sounds to close to
ANSI C definition. There are million ways to name a thing.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

William Sommerwerck wrote:

"Jim Thompson" wrote in message news:fq7gu2$f6j$2@aioe.org...
mad.scientist.jr@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:822b2e22-260a-4ed7-ad34-3232bb35e76e@e25g2000prg.googlegroups.com...

I need to display the numbers 0-255 in decimal on a 3-digit LED
display for a microcontroller project (it would need to be visible in
the dark). Ideally the display would be inexpensive and not take up
too many uC outputs, but what I am finding is expensive ($30 or more).
Does anyone make an inexpensive 3-digit 7-segment LED module that
accepts serial input from say, a PICAXE or a BASIC Stamp 2? Also I
haven't done anything using serial i/o yet but I saw some displays
that had a "clock" pin (so the controller can sync up the data stream
with the module). Would I need to get a clock module for the basic
stamp to talk to the display module? What would a good one be? Can you
build a reliable clock for less using a 555 timer? I as thinking about
how such a device might work without a clock and thought of a way to
do it with 2 lines output, 0-0 would mean no data, 0-1 would mean here
comes some data, 1-0 would mean low, 1-1 would mean high. The display
module would consist of a microcontroller with 2 inputs and 12 outputs
(3 groups of 4 outputs going to a 7-segment encoder IC to drive each
digit). Is this a decent solution or unnecessary? Any advice or links
to a good example would be appreciated... Thanks.

You sure ask a lot of questions for someone from New Jersey.

Save your cash, forget electronic toys, you will be starved. Only buy what
you need. Take me for example, I am out of job, I have to post my fancy ad
at the bottom of my post every time. Go figure.

Analog/Mixed-Signal ASICK's and Discrete Systems

Is that a joke?

Why has no one ever pointed out that ASICs are actually AN-SICs?

Becasue ahe troll forging post as Jim thompson doesn't know what
you're talking about.


Jim post though cox, not aioe.org.

Xref:
sn-us sci.electronics.components:138775
sci.electronics.design:803965 sci.electronics.repair:473092
Path:

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From:
"Jim Thompson"
<To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@My-Web-Site.com>
Newsgroups:
sci.electronics.components, sci.electronics.design,
sci.electronics.repair
Subject:
Re: looking to build or find inexpensive 3-digit 7-segment
LED display
Date:
Thu, 28 Feb 2008 15:42:34 -0800
Organization:
Forte Inc. http://www.forteinc.com/apn/
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50
Message-ID:
<fq7gu2$f6j$2@aioe.org>
References:

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--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[MooseFET]

"MooseFET" <kensmith@rahul.net> wrote in message
news:fq88io$k14$1@aioe.org...

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:a76dnQoItejRzFranZ2dnUVZ_ternZ2d@comcast.com...
"Jim Thompson" wrote in message news:fq7gu2$f6j$2@aioe.org...
mad.scientist.jr@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:822b2e22-260a-4ed7-ad34-3232bb35e76e@e25g2000prg.googlegroups.com...

I need to display the numbers 0-255 in decimal on a 3-digit LED
display for a microcontroller project (it would need to be visible in
the dark). Ideally the display would be inexpensive and not take up
too many uC outputs, but what I am finding is expensive ($30 or more).
Does anyone make an inexpensive 3-digit 7-segment LED module that
accepts serial input from say, a PICAXE or a BASIC Stamp 2? Also I
haven't done anything using serial i/o yet but I saw some displays
that had a "clock" pin (so the controller can sync up the data stream
with the module). Would I need to get a clock module for the basic
stamp to talk to the display module? What would a good one be? Can you
build a reliable clock for less using a 555 timer? I as thinking about
how such a device might work without a clock and thought of a way to
do it with 2 lines output, 0-0 would mean no data, 0-1 would mean here
comes some data, 1-0 would mean low, 1-1 would mean high. The display
module would consist of a microcontroller with 2 inputs and 12 outputs
(3 groups of 4 outputs going to a 7-segment encoder IC to drive each
digit). Is this a decent solution or unnecessary? Any advice or links
to a good example would be appreciated... Thanks.

You sure ask a lot of questions for someone from New Jersey.


Save your cash, forget electronic toys, you will be starved. Only buy
what
you need. Take me for example, I am out of job, I have to post my fancy
ad
at the bottom of my post every time. Go figure.

Analog/Mixed-Signal ASICK's and Discrete Systems

Is that a joke?

Why has no one ever pointed out that ASICs are actually AN-SICs?



Because Jim and I are retarded bastards. Your definition sounds to close
to
ANSI C definition. There are million ways to name a thing.

I forgot to mention Michael A. TerribleIl, he's a super-retarded soldier who
went with the idiots to war, they claimed they did it for Iraq, then claimed
it's for us, then claimed it's for the world. It's funny to no end.