Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Fred Kruger]

On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 23:38:00 -0800 (PST) pushparaj62@gmail.com wrote in
Message id:
<0ec47870-7b9f-40e7-b7a9-af8033b93a15@j28g2000hsj.googlegroups.com>:

hai

do u like me

No. Now go away you sack of shit.

(Fucking Google...)

 

[hallerb@aol.com]

On Feb 21, 2:20�am, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
<donna....@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 01:41:13 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
� �I always open an outside faucet wide open for about five minutes any
time the water is turned off to blow as much crap out of the lines
before using anything inside the house.

Hi Michael,
This is a GREAT idea! (if it works).

What I don't get is WHY there was all that sandy stuff after I replaced my
wagter heater. If anything, there should be LESS sediment in the lines, not
more (way more).

Where did all that sandy sediment that clogged every single faucet in our
tiny house come from?

Is this common that sediment blocks everything in one quick pass after
replacing a water heater?

If so, why did NONE of the tutorials I read mention that simple hint you
just gave us?

Donna

ahh when you turn off the water, drain the lines, and turn the water
back on. did you note the shuddering the first time you used water?
thats normal but you have galvanized lines full of crud which broke
loose and clogged stuff.

PEX and copper have smooth insides which dont collect crud.

sorry donna you need all your water lines replaced.

incidently water companies have the same trouble, and this is whu they
flush fire hydrants a couple times a year. confirms the hydrant works
and moves along dirt in lines.

thats why flushing sometimes causes brown or cruddy water

 

[hallerb@aol.com]

On Feb 21, 7:15 am, "hall...@aol.com" <hall...@aol.com> wrote:

On Feb 21, 2:20�am, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"





donna....@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 01:41:13 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
� �I always open an outside faucet wide open for about five minutes any
time the water is turned off to blow as much crap out of the lines
before using anything inside the house.

Hi Michael,
This is a GREAT idea! (if it works).

What I don't get is WHY there was all that sandy stuff after I replaced my
wagter heater. If anything, there should be LESS sediment in the lines, not
more (way more).

Where did all that sandy sediment that clogged every single faucet in our
tiny house come from?

Is this common that sediment blocks everything in one quick pass after
replacing a water heater?

If so, why did NONE of the tutorials I read mention that simple hint you
just gave us?

Donna

ahh when you turn off the water, drain the lines, and turn the water
back on. did you note the shuddering the first time you used water?
thats normal but you have galvanized lines full of crud which broke
loose and clogged stuff.

PEX and copper have smooth insides which dont collect crud.

sorry donna you need all your water lines replaced.

incidently water companies have the same trouble, and this is whu they
flush fire hydrants a couple times a year. confirms the hydrant works
and moves along dirt in lines.

thats why flushing sometimes causes brown or cruddy water- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

with copper of plastic lines its a non issue, and few today have
galvanized.

my neighbor got severly burnt at work after a water outage. when it
was turned back on the hot tea machine sprayed scalding water all over
her hand. she has permanent nerve damage

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 04:15:10 -0800 (PST), hallerb@aol.com wrote:

thats why flushing sometimes causes brown or cruddy wate

Hi Hallerb,

Ah. Yes. When the water was turned back on, there was a lot of sputtering
and shuddering going on, mostly sputtering. I thought it had to do with the
new burner.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2276890136/

But, this shaking & flushing of the pipes must have shaken loose sandy
grainy "crud" as every galvanized pipe I replaced was almost clogged
completely with what you called "scale".
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273250265/

The water *was* brownish for a long while (you can see that in this photo
even after cleaning out the showerheads, so the crud was *still* coming
through the lines even ten minutes after initially turning the water back
on!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279233720/

I guess all that brownish was sandy grainy stuff that caught in the filters
of *all* my faucets, showerheads, and dishwashers!

Nobody warned me about that so I'm *adding* it to the how to that I wrote
up!

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

Following is a idealized anatomy of a hot water heater replacement and
recommended maintenance performed, basically, on the Internet, in real
time, with the help of everyone here.

This procedure, which combines the best found on the Internet and which
takes into account *every* single of the hundreds of replies in this
newsgroup, is posted with the hope that the next amateur replacing their
natural gas galvanized pipe home hot water heater prints this out and
follows it to their delight and benefit!

A complete set of photos of every step below is available at
http://www.flickr.com/donnaohl

Here it is... this is an idealized version of my experience last week!

If you have old galvanized pipes, consider these preventive steps:
- Remove all debris screens from faucets, & tubs to prevent clogging
- Shut water to dishwaswher to prevent clogging of dishwasher screens
- Remove tub valves (I think) to prevent clogging of tubs

Remove the hot-water heater:
- Shut off the natural gas at the main gas meter (optional)
- Shut off the natural gas at the local hot-water heater (mandatory)
- Wait for the pilot light to go out to ensure no gas is left in the line
- Turn the thermostat on the hot-water heater to the off position
- Wait overnight, if possible, to allow the hot water in the tank to cool
- Or run 10 or 20 gallons of hot water in the house to dilute the tank
- You will be very glad you cooled the water in the tank: Trust me!
- Shut off the main household cold water (if replacing the gate valve)
- Shut the cold-water gate-valve right-side inlet to the hot-water heater
- Open at least one hot-water faucet in the house to drain off pressure
- Open the temperature and pressure valve as a safety measure (optional)
- Unscrew the cold-water inlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Unscrew the hot-water outlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Use two wrenches on flex connectors or they twist like a phone cord!
- Unscrew the natural gas inlet to the water-heater thermostat
- Cap the newly disconnected natural gas line to prevent contamination
- Connect a garden hose to the plastic hot-water-heater drain valve
- Open drain valve to drain hot water where it will not damage anything
- If 40/50 gallons doesn't come out something is clogged (very common)
- Shake and prod and push to get the water out (it happened to me)
- Otherwise you'll be moving a full tank which can tip (it happened to me)
- Disconnect garden hose and close drain valve when done (40 or 50 gallons)
- Unscrew the sheet-metal screw holding the vent pipe to the draft hood
- Separate the vent pipe from the draft hood (the hat on top middle)
- Unscrew sheet-metal screws holding gas-flue hat onto the vent pipe
- Separate the vent pipe from the gas-flue hat on top center of your heater
- Unscrew the seismic straps (if any) as the last thing before removal
- Remove old heater off the elevated base with two people and a handtruck
- Remove all water plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve
- Remove all gas plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve

Replace hot-water heater:
WHILE THE NEW TANK IS SITTING (DRY) ON THE GARAGE FLOOR:
- Remove the heater from the box by cutting the box completely open
- Replace the plastic drain valve with a brass ball valve (optional)
- Install the new temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve (if needed)
- Note: The brass T&P relief valve may already be installed on your tank
- Install the cold water dialectric check-valve nipple (on the top right)
- Install the hot water dialectric ckeck-valve nipple (on the top left)
- Note: The 2 check-valve nipples may already be installed on your tank.
- Wrap three layers of teflon tape on each dialectric check-valve nipple
- Remember: Always use 2 wrenches when screwing & unscrewing pipe fittings!

MOUNT THE TANK & POSITION THE VENT AND HOOD:
- Mount and level the new hot water heater on the 18-inch elevated base
- Ensure at least six inches of clear space all around the new heater
- Hacksaw the old gas vent so that it fits the new larger water heater
- Ensure the gas vent aligns with the center of the hot-water heater
- Insert legs of the draft hood into the holes in the top of the heater
- Drill a 1/8 inch hole into the draft hood and 3-inch vent pipe
- Screw in at least 1 sheet-metal screw from the vent hood to the vent pipe

ATTACH THE COLD WATER INLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Insert a blue heat-trap fitting (arrow down) into the cold-water inlet
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Look end-on through all fittings to ensure no Teflon tape overlap
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Screw the cold-water inlet male:male nipple into the top of the tank
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-inlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized cold-water inlet pipe
- Check for Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new ball-valve shutoff onto this vertical cold-water inlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the cold-water inlet brass nipples

ATTACH THE HOT WATER OUTLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Insert a red heat-trap fitting (arrow up) into the tank hot-water outlet
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-outlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new one-way check-valve onto this vertical hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the hot-water inlet brass nipples
- Bend the copper flex pipe into an S shape to further inhibit heat loss

ATTACH THE T&P SAFETY PIPE:
- Screw on rigid high-temperature water pipe to the T&P valve
- The open outlet must be six inches (no more, no less) from the floor
- The open outlet must not be threaded; no valves or traps are allowed
- Place a bowl or bucket at the outlet of this open overflow pipe
- Test the T&P valve & plumbing by flipping the little aluminum lever
- Scalding hot water should sputter out of the pipe outlet

TURN ON THE WATER SUPPLY:
- Optionally, remove all the screens from your water faucets
- Optionally, shut off the water to your dishwasher to prevent clogging
- Optionally, remove the shower heads to prevent clogging
- I'm not sure what to remove yet to prevent your tub from clogging
- Open at least one hot-water faucet in the house to bleed out air
- Slowly open the main cold-water input to the house
- Open the new ball-valve cold-water input to the hot-water heater
- Check for leaks in the plumbing as the tank fills
- Place a pan or bowl at the T&P overflow tube & test the T&P valve

ATTACH THE NATURAL GAS INLET:
- Always connect the natural gas line as the very last step in this process
- Set the thermostat on the hot-water heater to the off position
- Coat male natural gas line threads with stick pipe dope (no teflon)
- Ensure the last two threads are not covered with any pipe dope
- Connect the new (yellow) natural gas flex pipe to the thermostat
- Turn on natural gas at the main switch (if it was turned off)
- Turn on natural gas at the local inlet to the water heater
- Test for leaks by toothbrushing a solution of dish detergent and water
- Read and carefully follow the manufacturer's lighting instructions

INSULATION:
- Wrap additional insulation around your hot-water heater, if desired
- Wrap insulation around your hot-water outlet pipe, if desired

DISPOSAL:
- Perform an autopsy on the old water heater by removing all plumbing
- Remove & inspect the 1 1/16 inch 3-foot 8-inch sacrificial anode
- Remove & inspect the T&P valve
- Call the local garbage or recycling to haul away the old water heater

Twice a year:
- Clint combusion-air lint screens (at the bottom inch of the water heater)
- Place a pan or bowl at the temperature & pressure valve overflow tube
- Test the T&P valve by flipping the lever as water violently sputters out
- Turn the natural gas to the PILOT setting (or shut it off completely)
- Leave the cold-water intake valve open at the top right of the heater
- Open at least one hot-water faucet on any level above the water heater
- Gently connect a garden hose to your hot water heater drain valve
- Route the open end of the garden hose where hot water won't damage things
- Open the lower drain valve to empty a few gallons of muddy hot water
- Shut the drain valve when that water runs clear (approx 10 gallons)
- Once every three years, remove the 1 1/16-inch sacrificial anode
- Replace the 3'8" sacrificial anode if corroded or calcium passivated
- To replace, bend the magnesium anode or replace with sausage links
- Turn the natural gas back on and ensure the burner is working properly

 

On Mar 3, 3:25 am, francesco.messi...@gmail.com wrote:

On 2 Mar, 22:23, "N Cook" <diver...@gazeta.pl> wrote:
If 1995 unlikely Ge 2N1215
Could it be a Russian Cyrillic "N" ?
Definitely low power transistor casing ? eg < 1A

definitely low power, looks like japanese, all other components in the
car radio are japanese.
Might be a RN1215 but I wasn't able to find a datasheet to confirm.

How about a UN1215? It has an internal 10K base resistor.
http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf/3535073.pdf

TM

 

[James Sweet]

Hi Hallerb,

Ah. Yes. When the water was turned back on, there was a lot of sputtering
and shuddering going on, mostly sputtering. I thought it had to do with
the
new burner.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2276890136/

But, this shaking & flushing of the pipes must have shaken loose sandy
grainy "crud" as every galvanized pipe I replaced was almost clogged
completely with what you called "scale".
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273250265/

The water *was* brownish for a long while (you can see that in this photo
even after cleaning out the showerheads, so the crud was *still* coming
through the lines even ten minutes after initially turning the water back
on!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279233720/

I guess all that brownish was sandy grainy stuff that caught in the
filters
of *all* my faucets, showerheads, and dishwashers!

Nobody warned me about that so I'm *adding* it to the how to that I wrote
up!

The sputtering is due to air in the lines, it gets trapped in all sorts of
places and sputters and spurts out when a tap is opened.

I've only ever seen a couple houses that had galvanized pipes, and in one
case they were all being replaced. The sediment problem is something mostly
specific to galvanized, so it's not on the radar for most people.

 

[GregS]

In article <rngvj.12726$0w.4723@newssvr27.news.prodigy.net>, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

Following is a idealized anatomy of a hot water heater replacement and
recommended maintenance performed, basically, on the Internet, in real
time, with the help of everyone here.

This procedure, which combines the best found on the Internet and which
takes into account *every* single of the hundreds of replies in this
newsgroup, is posted with the hope that the next amateur replacing their
natural gas galvanized pipe home hot water heater prints this out and
follows it to their delight and benefit!

A complete set of photos of every step below is available at
http://www.flickr.com/donnaohl

Here it is... this is an idealized version of my experience last week!

If you have old galvanized pipes, consider these preventive steps:
- Remove all debris screens from faucets, & tubs to prevent clogging
- Shut water to dishwaswher to prevent clogging of dishwasher screens
- Remove tub valves (I think) to prevent clogging of tubs

Remove the hot-water heater:
- Shut off the natural gas at the main gas meter (optional)
- Shut off the natural gas at the local hot-water heater (mandatory)
- Wait for the pilot light to go out to ensure no gas is left in the line
- Turn the thermostat on the hot-water heater to the off position
- Wait overnight, if possible, to allow the hot water in the tank to cool
- Or run 10 or 20 gallons of hot water in the house to dilute the tank
- You will be very glad you cooled the water in the tank: Trust me!
- Shut off the main household cold water (if replacing the gate valve)
- Shut the cold-water gate-valve right-side inlet to the hot-water heater
- Open at least one hot-water faucet in the house to drain off pressure
- Open the temperature and pressure valve as a safety measure (optional)
- Unscrew the cold-water inlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Unscrew the hot-water outlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Use two wrenches on flex connectors or they twist like a phone cord!
- Unscrew the natural gas inlet to the water-heater thermostat
- Cap the newly disconnected natural gas line to prevent contamination
- Connect a garden hose to the plastic hot-water-heater drain valve
- Open drain valve to drain hot water where it will not damage anything
- If 40/50 gallons doesn't come out something is clogged (very common)
- Shake and prod and push to get the water out (it happened to me)
- Otherwise you'll be moving a full tank which can tip (it happened to me)
- Disconnect garden hose and close drain valve when done (40 or 50 gallons)
- Unscrew the sheet-metal screw holding the vent pipe to the draft hood
- Separate the vent pipe from the draft hood (the hat on top middle)
- Unscrew sheet-metal screws holding gas-flue hat onto the vent pipe
- Separate the vent pipe from the gas-flue hat on top center of your heater
- Unscrew the seismic straps (if any) as the last thing before removal
- Remove old heater off the elevated base with two people and a handtruck
- Remove all water plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve
- Remove all gas plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve

Replace hot-water heater:
WHILE THE NEW TANK IS SITTING (DRY) ON THE GARAGE FLOOR:
- Remove the heater from the box by cutting the box completely open
- Replace the plastic drain valve with a brass ball valve (optional)
- Install the new temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve (if needed)
- Note: The brass T&P relief valve may already be installed on your tank
- Install the cold water dialectric check-valve nipple (on the top right)
- Install the hot water dialectric ckeck-valve nipple (on the top left)
- Note: The 2 check-valve nipples may already be installed on your tank.
- Wrap three layers of teflon tape on each dialectric check-valve nipple
- Remember: Always use 2 wrenches when screwing & unscrewing pipe fittings!

MOUNT THE TANK & POSITION THE VENT AND HOOD:
- Mount and level the new hot water heater on the 18-inch elevated base
- Ensure at least six inches of clear space all around the new heater
- Hacksaw the old gas vent so that it fits the new larger water heater
- Ensure the gas vent aligns with the center of the hot-water heater
- Insert legs of the draft hood into the holes in the top of the heater
- Drill a 1/8 inch hole into the draft hood and 3-inch vent pipe
- Screw in at least 1 sheet-metal screw from the vent hood to the vent pipe

ATTACH THE COLD WATER INLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Insert a blue heat-trap fitting (arrow down) into the cold-water inlet
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Look end-on through all fittings to ensure no Teflon tape overlap
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Screw the cold-water inlet male:male nipple into the top of the tank
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-inlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized cold-water inlet pipe
- Check for Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new ball-valve shutoff onto this vertical cold-water inlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the cold-water inlet brass nipples

ATTACH THE HOT WATER OUTLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Insert a red heat-trap fitting (arrow up) into the tank hot-water outlet
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-outlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new one-way check-valve onto this vertical hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the hot-water inlet brass nipples
- Bend the copper flex pipe into an S shape to further inhibit heat loss

ATTACH THE T&P SAFETY PIPE:
- Screw on rigid high-temperature water pipe to the T&P valve
- The open outlet must be six inches (no more, no less) from the floor
- The open outlet must not be threaded; no valves or traps are allowed
- Place a bowl or bucket at the outlet of this open overflow pipe
- Test the T&P valve & plumbing by flipping the little aluminum lever
- Scalding hot water should sputter out of the pipe outlet

TURN ON THE WATER SUPPLY:
- Optionally, remove all the screens from your water faucets
- Optionally, shut off the water to your dishwasher to prevent clogging
- Optionally, remove the shower heads to prevent clogging
- I'm not sure what to remove yet to prevent your tub from clogging
- Open at least one hot-water faucet in the house to bleed out air
- Slowly open the main cold-water input to the house
- Open the new ball-valve cold-water input to the hot-water heater
- Check for leaks in the plumbing as the tank fills
- Place a pan or bowl at the T&P overflow tube & test the T&P valve

ATTACH THE NATURAL GAS INLET:
- Always connect the natural gas line as the very last step in this process
- Set the thermostat on the hot-water heater to the off position
- Coat male natural gas line threads with stick pipe dope (no teflon)
- Ensure the last two threads are not covered with any pipe dope
- Connect the new (yellow) natural gas flex pipe to the thermostat
- Turn on natural gas at the main switch (if it was turned off)
- Turn on natural gas at the local inlet to the water heater
- Test for leaks by toothbrushing a solution of dish detergent and water
- Read and carefully follow the manufacturer's lighting instructions

INSULATION:
- Wrap additional insulation around your hot-water heater, if desired
- Wrap insulation around your hot-water outlet pipe, if desired

DISPOSAL:
- Perform an autopsy on the old water heater by removing all plumbing
- Remove & inspect the 1 1/16 inch 3-foot 8-inch sacrificial anode
- Remove & inspect the T&P valve
- Call the local garbage or recycling to haul away the old water heater

Twice a year:
- Clint combusion-air lint screens (at the bottom inch of the water heater)
- Place a pan or bowl at the temperature & pressure valve overflow tube
- Test the T&P valve by flipping the lever as water violently sputters out
- Turn the natural gas to the PILOT setting (or shut it off completely)
- Leave the cold-water intake valve open at the top right of the heater
- Open at least one hot-water faucet on any level above the water heater
- Gently connect a garden hose to your hot water heater drain valve
- Route the open end of the garden hose where hot water won't damage things
- Open the lower drain valve to empty a few gallons of muddy hot water
- Shut the drain valve when that water runs clear (approx 10 gallons)
- Once every three years, remove the 1 1/16-inch sacrificial anode
- Replace the 3'8" sacrificial anode if corroded or calcium passivated
- To replace, bend the magnesium anode or replace with sausage links
- Turn the natural gas back on and ensure the burner is working properly

Insulation wrapping the hot water pipe, all the way to common fixtures is
desirable. Also wrap the cold water intake near the hot water heater.
It gets hot and looses heat when there is no inflow.

It especially desirable to better insulate the heater when its
not in the living area. Inside the living area, the loss is added to the room
temperature, and most of the year you need extra heat anyway.

greg

 

[msg]

James Sweet wrote:

<snip>

I've only ever seen a couple houses that had galvanized pipes, and in one
case they were all being replaced. The sediment problem is something mostly
specific to galvanized, so it's not on the radar for most people.

Huh? Look most anywhere in the 'rust belt' or in areas where the housing
stock is largely greater than 80 years old ;-) Too bad that 'tutorials'
aren't directed at those situations to which they are most needed.

Michael

 

[James Sweet]

Huh? Look most anywhere in the 'rust belt' or in areas where the housing
stock is largely greater than 80 years old ;-) Too bad that 'tutorials'
aren't directed at those situations to which they are most needed.

I'm not anywhere near the rust belt.

I know several people with old houses that originally had galvanized, but
they're all copper now.

 

Awww, come on,,,, buying and installing a new water heater is hardly any
different than buying and and installing any other kind of a home
apppliance.There is nothing to it but to do it.A city permit? Forget it!
cuhulin

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

"hallerb@aol.com" wrote:

with copper of plastic lines its a non issue, and few today have
galvanized.

my neighbor got severly burnt at work after a water outage. when it
was turned back on the hot tea machine sprayed scalding water all over
her hand. she has permanent nerve damage

All my plumbing is PVC, except the well casing. The people I bought
the place from waited till the old well was totally useless, and there
is 1/8" of rust on the walls of the PVC. Every time the system, is
deperssurized, I get VERY rusty water, unless I flush it, as described.

--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" wrote:

On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 01:41:13 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
I always open an outside faucet wide open for about five minutes any
time the water is turned off to blow as much crap out of the lines
before using anything inside the house.

Hi Michael,
This is a GREAT idea! (if it works).

What I don't get is WHY there was all that sandy stuff after I replaced my
wagter heater. If anything, there should be LESS sediment in the lines, not
more (way more).

Where did all that sandy sediment that clogged every single faucet in our
tiny house come from?

Is this common that sediment blocks everything in one quick pass after
replacing a water heater?

If so, why did NONE of the tutorials I read mention that simple hint you
just gave us?

Who knows? They probably overlook it, thinking that everyone already
knows about it. People who are too close ot any subject tend to mitt
important details, because they think everyone knows THAT about the
job. I rewrote a lot of test procedures where I worked, because of the
engineering department doing the same thing. You had to train each tech
on each job, because so much stuff was left out, or just plain wrong.
Eventually, the system was changed to peer review the documents on the
test floor before changes were approved.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

GregS wrote:

It especially desirable to better insulate the heater when its
not in the living area. Inside the living area, the loss is added to the room
temperature, and most of the year you need extra heat anyway.

Not in sunny Florida, where you run the AC almost year round.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[GregS]

In article <47BDD2E0.56FE0E34@earthlink.net>, mike.terrell@earthlink.net wrote:

GregS wrote:

It especially desirable to better insulate the heater when its
not in the living area. Inside the living area, the loss is added to the room
temperature, and most of the year you need extra heat anyway.


Not in sunny Florida, where you run the AC almost year round.

Are geothermal heat pumps becoming poplar there ?
I think I could have saved gas bills by using the underground pipes
and heat pump. My electricity is cheap.


greg

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

GregS wrote:

In article <47BDD2E0.56FE0E34@earthlink.net>, mike.terrell@earthlink.net wrote:
GregS wrote:

It especially desirable to better insulate the heater when its
not in the living area. Inside the living area, the loss is added to the room
temperature, and most of the year you need extra heat anyway.


Not in sunny Florida, where you run the AC almost year round.

Are geothermal heat pumps becoming poplar there ?
I think I could have saved gas bills by using the underground pipes
and heat pump. My electricity is cheap.

greg

Higher property taxes tend to wipe out any savings. I do know one
thing though: If this 'Global Warming' keeps up, I'll have to buy a
furnace.


--
My sig file can beat up your sig file!

 

[hallerb@aol.com]

even if you knew this would occur it would be impossible to completely
prevent or flush the junk.......

first not every valve can be opened, like the dishwasher

second the junk will be disturbed and contuue coming off to a lesser
degree for some time

and even if you open valves slowly it will still occur.

might be time to drain the new tank to get out what you can

 

On Feb 21, 2:48 pm, "hall...@aol.com" <hall...@aol.com> wrote:

even if you knew this would occur it would be impossible to completely
prevent or flush the junk.......

Donna,
You forgot to add the hint about opening the outside water faucets!
Please add that to the tutorial!

 

[Joe Kappus]

On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 18:43:16 -0800, susie wrote:

The release of software from a firm run by a notorious Norwegian hacker
is likely to cause waves in the music and film download world.

Yeah, DVD Jon has created waves in the past, thought I doubt this will.

Reason being:

From what I gathered, all this software does is read the itunesdb and
transcode the music to another format. (big deal?) Not to mention,
transcodes sound like crap, tools that break DRM are somewhat useful,
this is not. And it's not a new idea, other software exists for similar
purposes.

Joe

 

On 3 Mar, 11:40, "N Cook" <diver...@gazeta.pl> wrote:

francesco.messi...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:3df8a2c7-7a6b-41b8-87e1-b9fdf22d2a9f@d21g2000prf.googlegroups.com...> On 3 Mar, 09:51, "N Cook" <diver...@gazeta.pl> wrote:
francesco.messi...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:fe835cd4-fe1b-4c3e-acb8-d4d44c27da1a@h25g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

....
And no, no possible other characters, the case is clean, the marking
very sharp and the code begins right on the edge of the case. There's
a dot under the N, not sure if it helps.
I can also send a picture if it helps.
Regards

Francesco IZ8DWF

put the pic on some site and place the URL here

I have the pic and can send to anyone, just contact me via email. I
wouldn't know where tu put it anyway. Looks like it's likely an
RN1215 but without a datasheet it's kind of difficult to guess the
resistor value just for example.

Thanks
Francesco