Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[hallerb@aol.com]

Funny the title of this discussion was quick basic advice and now has
over 160 posts

yep er quick and basic Lots of useful info!!

 

Old water heater tanks can be converted into useful things.B B Q
grills.cookers, air pressure tanks, sand blasting tanks, floatation
things for the water/lakes/ponds, etc.
cuhulin

 

[JW]

On Wed, 5 Mar 2008 02:14:22 -0800 (PST) hollywood154@gmail.com wrote in
Message id:
<279dea57-44d5-49c9-89b8-b5037de55009@i29g2000prf.googlegroups.com>:

do u like me

Not in the slightest.

do u want see my face

Only if it's encased in a 3 mil plastic bag and a tie-wrap is around your
neck.

 

[James Sweet]

<hollywood154@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:279dea57-44d5-49c9-89b8-b5037de55009@i29g2000prf.googlegroups.com...

do u like me
do u want see my face

No.

 

[jakdedert]

James Sweet wrote:

The wage to the technician is just a starting point, since few are
independent contractors. Most work for larger concerns who also must pay
ancillary personnel.


I understand a business has to make money, but I don't, I have a fulltime
job, I do this stuff as a favor for friends, hence the substantially lower
price.

I understand that, in your case. The thread had to do with commercial

installers. If we all had a 'buddy named James' there would be no need
for businesses which do this day in/out. In fact, that's the way most
things were done, 'back when', but it's not the norm anymore.

A cost that nobody seems to have factored in, is removal and disposal of
the old water heater. In some areas of this country, that can be
substantial. In others...well, I've seen a lot of old water heaters
littering the countryside.


Cost? I get money for the old units at the recycler, it's an insignificant
amount, but probably enough to cover the fuel spent getting it there.


That's because you have access to the recycler, know where it is, and

have a vehicle suitable to transport...also the time. I know it's
trivial to many--but monumental to others. I'd be hard-pressed to get a
50 gallon water heater in my old Corolla, although it could be done
(it's a station wagon). I'd want to put in several layers of padding
and some waterproofing. Many would not want to do so in their late
model Whizzmobiles.

Like I said, I've seen a lot of discarded water heaters....

jak

 

[Astriapo]

From my understanding of older microwave ovens (from the 80s, that we
still use in the apartment buildings) the microwave reflector is
called a Stirrer. Very easy to replace. I have read that when a
megatron burns around the hole it protrudes it is because there is
carbon built up and it conducts electricity, therefore causing it to
arc. Simple sanding can fix that. I have also read that some people
rebuild that area with a epoxy putty, but I don't know how true that
is.

Of course you also need to test the case after its been opened for
microwave leaks.

Of course this is useless info since you want to get rid of the oven,
anyway.




On 28 Jul 2003 12:47:50 -0700, gnatgosplat@softhome.net (Shawn Lin)
wrote:

Mine burned out because something is wrong with the magnetron. It
melted the aluminum microwave reflector thing that was mounted behind
the waveguide cover, and also burned all the paint around the hole
that the magnetron protrudes through.

Shawn

(cut)

 

[hallerb@aol.com]

On Feb 15, 1:17�pm, jakdedert <jakded...@bellsouth.net> wrote:

Lou wrote:

snip>> And let's not forget that in order to drive, s/he needs a vehicle, one that
is probably more or less dedicated to the business, and that has to be paid
for also.

According tohttp://www.careeroverview.com/plumbing-careers.htmlthe median
wage for a plumber in 2002 was $19.30/hour. �Assuming a 40 hour work week
for 50 weeks a year, that comes to $38,600/year. �Doesn't sound like a way
to get rich quick.

The wage to the technician is just a starting point, since few are
independent contractors. �Most work for larger concerns who also must
pay ancillary personnel.

A question on the cost of the permit - how much would it cost if you went to
the town office and got the permit yourself?

A cost that nobody seems to have factored in, is removal and disposal of
the old water heater. �In some areas of this country, that can be
substantial. �In others...well, I've seen a lot of old water heaters
littering the countryside.

Also, access is a serious issue in many structures; and this applies
equally to both removal and installation. �I could easily replace the
unit in my basement; but I once had a shop where the heater was mounted
in the attic. �That one would have required a couple of guys for a
couple of hours to replace--involving ropes & pulleys, not to mention a
significant amount of risk--in addition to the normal procedures.

jak

scrap steel has value everywhere, minimial but still a little money.
so you haul the junk heater and get candy bar money. around here trash
takes them but they often get picked up before that

 

[James Sweet]

The wage to the technician is just a starting point, since few are
independent contractors. Most work for larger concerns who also must pay
ancillary personnel.

I understand a business has to make money, but I don't, I have a fulltime
job, I do this stuff as a favor for friends, hence the substantially lower
price.

A cost that nobody seems to have factored in, is removal and disposal of
the old water heater. In some areas of this country, that can be
substantial. In others...well, I've seen a lot of old water heaters
littering the countryside.

Cost? I get money for the old units at the recycler, it's an insignificant
amount, but probably enough to cover the fuel spent getting it there.

 

[jakdedert]

Lou wrote:
<snip>

And let's not forget that in order to drive, s/he needs a vehicle, one that
is probably more or less dedicated to the business, and that has to be paid
for also.

According to http://www.careeroverview.com/plumbing-careers.html the median
wage for a plumber in 2002 was $19.30/hour. Assuming a 40 hour work week
for 50 weeks a year, that comes to $38,600/year. Doesn't sound like a way
to get rich quick.

The wage to the technician is just a starting point, since few are

independent contractors. Most work for larger concerns who also must
pay ancillary personnel.

A question on the cost of the permit - how much would it cost if you went to
the town office and got the permit yourself?


A cost that nobody seems to have factored in, is removal and disposal of

the old water heater. In some areas of this country, that can be
substantial. In others...well, I've seen a lot of old water heaters
littering the countryside.

Also, access is a serious issue in many structures; and this applies
equally to both removal and installation. I could easily replace the
unit in my basement; but I once had a shop where the heater was mounted
in the attic. That one would have required a couple of guys for a
couple of hours to replace--involving ropes & pulleys, not to mention a
significant amount of risk--in addition to the normal procedures.

jak

 

[Astriapo]

The first thing I would do is check the socket to see if it is getting
power at all. If you do open the case, remember that the capacitor is
high voltage and can kill you even if the thing is unplugged. If you
can find the schematic inside the case, I usually see them near the
internal fan, there should be a set of buttons you can press to test
the control board and door switches.

If the socket IS getting power, pull the center tab out a little so
that you know it is making contact with the bulb. 90% of my bulb
problems are the old bulb was screwed in to far and bent the center
tab. (Even in refrigerators.)

Hope that helped.




On 23 Jul 2003 17:49:23 -0700, sarasotareal@aol.com (Brian) wrote:

Ok folks, heres one for you! I have a General Electric undercounter
(over my stove) microwave (#JVM1430WA01). It has worked great for the
last 4 years... or should I say until the cooktop lights went out
(light inside microwave still works). I thought at first it was the
bulbs and they were bad so I replaced them...$20 each for 2 ...ouch!
They still did not work so I tried the bulbs in another socket...no
problem.

It was suggested to me that it could be the sockets...(getting
smarter) I bought 1 ($32) and replaced it...still no light. I tested
the bulbs again...no problem.

Calling GE they suggested it was the fuse next to the capacitor (but
told me not to attempt to remove it...very dangerous). Of course they
can send out a repair man, I declined the offer to spend more money.
I removed the fuse but decided it can't be that since when I remove
the fuse nothing works.

I checked all the wires and plugs behind the touch panel. Everything
is plugged in and the wires all look good...no problem. By the way,
the touch panel button makes a click and "bleep" noise when I press
the light button.

Now $72 spent but still....NO LIGHTS!

Anyone have any great ideas besides: 1)Junk a perfectly good microwave
2)Spend more than the microwave is worth to have a repairman fix
something I am overlooking?

I could really use some help.

Thanks,
Brian

 

[Astriapo]

Sounds like one of the thermostats inside the case is bad. Could also
be a bad transformer.


On 1 Aug 2003 19:32:50 -0700, beanie_bari@yahoo.com (Beanie) wrote:

Okay, so I've tried everything possible to get a microwave that was
picked up off the street to work. It's a Kenmore 565.8925590, 1300W,
serial 1V7C01490, manufactured September 1991. The magnetron and
controller IC are made by Sanyo, so I imagine that the entire oven
was, too. So, here's the symptoms the microwave exhibits:
The microwave will happily begin to microwave a cup of water. After
about a minute or so, the fan and the turntable will stop. The light
stays on, and the counter keeps going. If I stop the microwave cycle
and let the oven cool down, I can start it up again, for about another
minute. So, I opened it up, and checked the usual suspects (fuse,
interlock switches, etc.) The primary interlock switch was always
open, so I replaced it. That didn't fix anything. All of the
switches appear to be making good contact with the actuators on the
door. There are two thermal protectors. Both offer a resistance of
zero, and according to the schematic (and the actual wire routing) if
either opened, it would kill power to the entire oven--so I know that
they are not at fault here. The magnetron does become hot to the
touch, but it's not _that_ (135 degrees centigrade) hot.
As far as I can tell, the only thing left to be at fault is the
relays, that are located on the controller board. I'm a little leery
of testing the relays on it with the oven live--especially because the
warning labels clearly state that the step-down transformer will give
me a jolt. There is a burn mark on the PCB in the center, but the
resistors, diodes, and caps in that area all test fine.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

--Chris

 

[Astriapo]

NEVER run a microwave with out the cover and after the cover has been
replace it needs to be tested for microwave leaks.


On Mon, 4 Aug 2003 18:15:27 -0400, Madloot303 <madloot303@aol.com>
wrote:

After repairing a microwave oven should I plug it in and test it to make sure
everythings in working order before I reassemble it?

 

[dpb]

hallerb@aol.com wrote:
....

well everyone knew the old tests werent valid yet it took many years
to get them changed

Which old tests weren't valid, specifically? And why?

That they weren't necessarily representative of average driving doesn't
mean they were "invalid tests"; it simply means they were of value only
as comparative to each other for those circumstances. Assuming you're
talking of the previous EPA Standard tests, that's no different than the
current tests--only the test conditions have changed, nothing about the
administration or control of the test data, etc.

--

 

[hallerb@aol.com]

On Feb 15, 10:33 am, trad...@optonline.net wrote:

On Feb 15, 8:43 am, "hall...@aol.com" <hall...@aol.com> wrote:

-

The tests are performed by independent labs to the EPA test procedures
and standards. ďż˝ It's not up to the maufacturers to decide how to
test, nor can they manipulate the results for the cars. ďż˝ Same thing
for the water heaters.- Hide quoted text -

no the manufactuers knowing the test procedures tweak the product to
look as good as possible

Yes, some of that can certainly be going on.   But trying to change
the design of the product slightly to come out better in the standard
EPA test is a lot different than claiming the tests themselves are not
uniform because the manufacturer gets to decide the test method, how
the test is done, etc, and then manipulates the results they publish.

well everyone knew the old tests werent valid yet it took many years
to get them changed

 

On Feb 15, 8:43 am, "hall...@aol.com" <hall...@aol.com> wrote:

-



The tests are performed by independent labs to the EPA test procedures
and standards. ďż˝ It's not up to the maufacturers to decide how to
test, nor can they manipulate the results for the cars. ďż˝ Same thing
for the water heaters.- Hide quoted text -

no the manufactuers knowing the test procedures tweak the product to
look as good as possible

Yes, some of that can certainly be going on. But trying to change
the design of the product slightly to come out better in the standard
EPA test is a lot different than claiming the tests themselves are not
uniform because the manufacturer gets to decide the test method, how
the test is done, etc, and then manipulates the results they publish.

 

[JeffM]

LDLong wrote:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics/msg/13651a897337a7a9?q=Charters+misc.industry.electronics.marketplace+Discussions+Advertisement-*-*+only.advertise+Techniques-for-*-*-*+sci.electronics.repair-Fixing-*-*+Annecdotes-*-*+*.rec.hierarchy+*.*.not.a.forsale.group+zz-zz+Discussion

Groups where advertisements are welcome are easy to spot.
They have words in their names like
ads forsale marketplace biz

....and MULTI-POSTING on Usenet is really STUPID.

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Sun, 10 Feb 2008 15:58:35 -0600, L D'Bonnie wrote:

Is it down the basement on a concrete floor with no possibility of
water damage?

It's in a concrete-floored garage on a wooden pedestal so there's not much
by way of water damage that can occur if the leak were to exascerbate in
the next few days.

The safe bet is to call a plumber and replace the tank as soon as
possible. The labor to replace the tank with a similar unit will
likely be less than that of a tankless.
I've since given up on tankless for the retrofit costs. The labor at Home

Depot seems to be $309 to hook up the new hot water heater and haul away
the old one; plus $55 for earthquake straps; plus $50 for permits; plus
taxes of roughly 9% on the parts and service.

Bite the bullet and take your lumps, the joys of being a home owner.
Here are the comparisons I can generate so far, based on what Home Depot

says at their Bronx New York Water Heater Servicing Center.

The prices below are installed but sans earthquake straps, permits, &
taxes. Note that the Home Depot water heater servicing center had no
figures for the BTUs (they said they weren't important). They mostly pushed
warranty but I did my comparison by cost per First Hour Rating.

Home Depot Water Heater Servicing Center (877-467-0542)
by price (installed), SKU, FHR, EF, BTU, volume, and warranty:
$608 SG40T12AVH/182-755 72galFHR 0.59EF ??KBTU 40gal 6-yr(drain 2x/year)
$658 SG50T12AVH/183-717 80galFHR 0.58EF ??KBTU 50gal 6-yr(drain 2x/year)
$677 SG40T12AVH/182-786 72galFHR 0.59EF ??KBTU 40gal 9-yr(self cleaning)
$718 SG50T12AVH/184-076 80galFHR 0.58EF ??KBTU 50gal 9-yr(self cleaning)
$728 SG40T12AVH/182-953 68galFHR 0.59EF ??KBTU 40gal 12-yr(self cleaning)
$783 SG50T12AVH/185-191 83galFHR 0.58EF ??KBTU 50gal 12-yr(self cleaning)

Here are the best numbers I could find by going to the local Home Depot.
Notice the only way to get the all-important First Hour Rating was to open
each and every box which the floorperson balked at so I don't know that or
the Energy Factor.

Here is what was at the store by price, UPC, FHR, ER, BTU, volume, &
warranty:
$280, 514017, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 34K, 40gal, 3yr
$290, 509501, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 36K, 40gal, 6yr
$350, 519005, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 38K, 40gal, 9yr
$350, 431048, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 38K, 50gal, 6yr
$360, 494272, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 40K, 40gal, 6yr
$370, 551821, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 40K, 40gal, 9yr
$380, 569840, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 34K, 40gal, 6yr
$410, 431055, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 38K, 50gal, 9yr
$420, 518411, ??gal FHR, .59EF, 40K, 40gal, 12yr
$420, 494302, 68gal FHR, .??EF, 40K, 50gal, 6yr
$440, 518435, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 40K, 50gal, 12yr

Do any of these choices seem most reasonable to replace my existing 65
gallon First Hour Rating, ??EF, 40 gallon, 35,000 BTU 50" tall by 18"
diameter gas-fired shelf-mounted earthquake-strapped hot water heater?

Donna

 

[Gary Heston]

In article <TuNrj.4853$uE.1057@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net>,
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
[ ... ]

Here is what was at the store by price, UPC, FHR, ER, BTU, volume, &
warranty:
[ ... ]
$350, 519005, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 38K, 40gal, 9yr
[ ... ]
$370, 551821, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 40K, 40gal, 9yr
[ ... ]

Do any of these choices seem most reasonable to replace my existing 65
gallon First Hour Rating, ??EF, 40 gallon, 35,000 BTU 50" tall by 18"
diameter gas-fired shelf-mounted earthquake-strapped hot water heater?

The two above should equal or exceed the FHR of your existing heater.
That's mainly a function of BTUs, so the second of the two above will
be slightly better; of course, it'll burn a bit more gas. If that's a
concern, go with the first.


Gary

--
Gary Heston gheston@hiwaay.net http://www.thebreastcancersite.com/

We live in amazing times, when one person can invent both the Internet
and global warming, then get awarded a "peace prize".

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 02:26:24 -0000, Gary Heston wrote:

That's mainly a function of BTUs, so the second of the two above will
be slightly better; of course, it'll burn a bit more gas. If that's a
concern, go with the first.

I'm still looking up ways to make a smart decision.
One thing I've noticed is that the efficiency factors I've been quoted from
Home Depot stink (basically 58 to 59 percent).

I called PG&E and they pointed me to a $30 rebate but only for residential
gas water heaters of an EF of 62% or greater.
http://www.pge.com/res/rebates/gas_electric_storage/

Does anyone know where to find a 40gallon or 50gallon hot water heater with
that efficiency rating at a major chain (sears or home depot or ???).
http://www.pge.com/res/rebates/

Donna

 

[James Sweet]

Here is what was at the store by price, UPC, FHR, ER, BTU, volume, &
warranty:
$280, 514017, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 34K, 40gal, 3yr
$290, 509501, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 36K, 40gal, 6yr
$350, 519005, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 38K, 40gal, 9yr
$350, 431048, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 38K, 50gal, 6yr
$360, 494272, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 40K, 40gal, 6yr
$370, 551821, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 40K, 40gal, 9yr
$380, 569840, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 34K, 40gal, 6yr
$410, 431055, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 38K, 50gal, 9yr
$420, 518411, ??gal FHR, .59EF, 40K, 40gal, 12yr
$420, 494302, 68gal FHR, .??EF, 40K, 50gal, 6yr
$440, 518435, ??gal FHR, .??EF, 40K, 50gal, 12yr

Do any of these choices seem most reasonable to replace my existing 65
gallon First Hour Rating, ??EF, 40 gallon, 35,000 BTU 50" tall by 18"
diameter gas-fired shelf-mounted earthquake-strapped hot water heater?

The only number that really matters to you is the capacity, get one close to
the original capacity and assuming you were happy with the performance
before, you should be with the new one. I recently replaced the water heater
in my mom's house with the last one on the list there, it was 20 bucks more
for double the warranty, seems like a no brainer. Can't advise much on the
labor cost as I've always done all that stuff myself.