Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

bz wrote:
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in
news:468C0FBD.3CC7C946@earthlink.net:

bz wrote:

Figuring out what fed what was fun.


Try figuring out where 50+ pairs of audio cables go on a large school
intercom system, after some idiot kid rips all the wires loose, AND
removes the tags. It took two full 8 hr days.


Bet you got a 'buzz' out of that.
Click to expand...


Actually, all the speakers were 25 volt line, so I used a McMartin
background music receiver to find the speakers


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
Spurious Response wrote:
On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 21:23:06 GMT, "Michael A. Terrell"
mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

bz wrote:

Figuring out what fed what was fun.


Try figuring out where 50+ pairs of audio cables go on a large school
intercom system, after some idiot kid rips all the wires loose, AND
removes the tags. It took two full 8 hr days.

Was it a Bogen intercom? They are a division of Lear Sigler. I worked
there at one time, years ago.
Click to expand...

Dukane


Beeping out each line should have been easy.
Click to expand...

Some of the speakers were over 1000' from that junction box and down
multiple turns in the hallways.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article <ng7o83ltvtv9pll9rqprle92i3v4q415ar@4ax.com>,
Spurious Response <SpuriousResponse@cleansignal.org> wrote:
Try figuring out where 50+ pairs of audio cables go on a large school
intercom system, after some idiot kid rips all the wires loose, AND
removes the tags. It took two full 8 hr days.

Was it a Bogen intercom? They are a division of Lear Sigler. I worked
there at one time, years ago.

Beeping out each line should have been easy.

I've yet to see an unmarked multi-pair cable.
Click to expand...

Where did I say it was multi-pair? I said that it was over 50
pairs. Shielded multi-pair audio cables wasn't being used for school
intercoms when this system was built, and the architect's specs called
for stranded 22 AWG Alpha twisted pair, shielded cable with a plastic
jacket. If it was multi-pair, there would be no need to tag the
individual pairs, would there?

I DID use 66 series 25 pair terminal blocks to rewire that cabinet,
so you could flip out a couple bridging clips to troubleshoot the
wiring.
--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
Wolfi wrote:
Good luck plugging in a switchable 1200/1500W electric room heater, when 1200W
just don't warm enough or a fix power 1350W type or a decent ľ-wave.with 1kW
or 1.1kW *output* power, sucking about 1.5kW out of the wall.
Click to expand...

What part of "Dedicated circuit" don't you get?


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
Wolfi <publicalfa-ng@yahoo.fr> wrote in
news:MHDii.10276$%K1.3372@newsfe21.lga:

Because initially we had been talking about wall outlets and according
plugs, with flat (US, UK) or round (most of Central Europe) contacts
and those connectors are rated 15A/130V (US) or 16A/250V (Europe).
So when talking about alternatives, we have to stay in the same
ratings range.
Click to expand...
No, we have been mostly talking of the merits of the UK BS1363 vs the
typical US NEMA 5-15, with a noted tangent on other plugs around the world,
and outside of the typical ones in the US/UK.
 
Spurious Response <SpuriousResponse@cleansignal.org> wrote in
news:qt5o83tgamq9k06bj9if8n940sbihpeom6@4ax.com:

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 11:05:44 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

What types of appliances get used in Japan? High wattage? Low?
Other places?
Click to expand...
Being as they have 100V service (rather than 120V, or 240V), they use lower
wattage appliances. I don't know how they handle high power.
 
On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 07:37:47 GMT, Thomas Tornblom <thomas@Hax.SE> wrote:

It takes the same amount of energy to boil a quantity of water whether
you're using a 1 kW or 3 kW kettle. Infact it would probably take less
energy with the 3kW kettle as it gets the job done quicker, which
means less losses.
Click to expand...

You also have to account for losses at the kettle itself. They do not
transfer 100% of the energy, and the higher wattage units radiate a lot
more, so they are slightly lossy-er.

I'll stick with my infinitely (FAIAP) variable gas, thanks.
 
On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 07:37:47 GMT, Thomas Tornblom <thomas@Hax.SE> wrote:

What types of appliances get used in Japan? High wattage? Low?
Other places?

Not an appliance, and in Sweden, not Japan, but I have...
Click to expand...
It was quite obvious that I was not asking you about you.
 
On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 09:05:33 +0100, Paul Burke <paul@scazon.com> wrote:

Spurious Response wrote:

If you paid California electric rates, you wouldn't use it very many
times a year.

Apart from the fact that the energy used in a more powerful kettle is
slightly less, the rates in California appear to be about 12-15c/kWhr,
compared with my UK rate of 9p (~18c). The big difference in costs here
is that the climate is such that we don't need (and most of us don't
have) air- conditioning.

Paul Burke
Click to expand...
I do not have, nor do I need AC here, near the shore. Inland becomes a
different story.
 
"Gary Tait" <classicsat@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:Xns996499126C1E9wonkynillmailnil@142.77.1.194...
Spurious Response <SpuriousResponse@cleansignal.org> wrote in
news:qt5o83tgamq9k06bj9if8n940sbihpeom6@4ax.com:

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 11:05:44 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

What types of appliances get used in Japan? High wattage? Low?
Other places?


Being as they have 100V service (rather than 120V, or 240V), they use
lower
wattage appliances. I don't know how they handle high power.
Click to expand...
Do they only have 100V or is it a split 100/200V system more similar to the
US arrangement? I had assumed the latter, but I've never looked into it.
 
Am 03.07.07 19.58 schrieb Spurious Response:
On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 15:45:34 -0500, Wolfi <publicalfa-ng@yahoo.fr> wrote:

And, If I plug in that forementioned air compressors power cord and it comes
out of the socket again just by the weight of the cable pulling on it, which
spec applies for it then?


If you are plugging some bent up plug into a power socket, you are an
idiot for not servicing the plug before using the product it was attached
to. Oh, and if you are seeing perfectly normal plugs coming out of an
outlet, YOU need to service the outlet.
Click to expand...
I never said, that the compressor plug was bent at all. It is still in
original condition, so is the power outlet as well.
But it is mounted to a column inside a shop at about 1.20m height and the
shitty power connector system just isn't capable of supporting the relatively
thick, rubber insulated cables weight until it hits the floor, without letting
the plug slip out over time, until at least one spade starts losing contact.
As an additional hint: in this case, the ground pin is at the bottom, the 2
spades on top.
I'm simply reporting first hand experiences with the U.S. system, and compare
them to others with connector systems, where the removable part dives with its
housing into the receptacle to some degree.
 
On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 21:51:20 -0500, Wolfi <publicalfa-ng@yahoo.fr>
wrote:

Am 03.07.07 19.58 schrieb Spurious Response:
On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 15:45:34 -0500, Wolfi <publicalfa-ng@yahoo.fr> wrote:

And, If I plug in that forementioned air compressors power cord and it comes
out of the socket again just by the weight of the cable pulling on it, which
spec applies for it then?


If you are plugging some bent up plug into a power socket, you are an
idiot for not servicing the plug before using the product it was attached
to. Oh, and if you are seeing perfectly normal plugs coming out of an
outlet, YOU need to service the outlet.

I never said, that the compressor plug was bent at all. It is still in
original condition, so is the power outlet as well.
But it is mounted to a column inside a shop at about 1.20m height and the
shitty power connector system just isn't capable of supporting the relatively
thick, rubber insulated cables weight until it hits the floor, without letting
the plug slip out over time, until at least one spade starts losing contact.
As an additional hint: in this case, the ground pin is at the bottom, the 2
spades on top.
I'm simply reporting first hand experiences with the U.S. system, and compare
them to others with connector systems, where the removable part dives with its
housing into the receptacle to some degree.
Click to expand...
For serious stuff, use a twist-lok.

John
 
Wolfi wrote:
Am 03.07.07 19.58 schrieb Spurious Response:
On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 15:45:34 -0500, Wolfi <publicalfa-ng@yahoo.fr> wrote:

And, If I plug in that forementioned air compressors power cord and it comes
out of the socket again just by the weight of the cable pulling on it, which
spec applies for it then?


If you are plugging some bent up plug into a power socket, you are an
idiot for not servicing the plug before using the product it was attached
to. Oh, and if you are seeing perfectly normal plugs coming out of an
outlet, YOU need to service the outlet.

I never said, that the compressor plug was bent at all. It is still in
original condition, so is the power outlet as well.
But it is mounted to a column inside a shop at about 1.20m height and the
shitty power connector system just isn't capable of supporting the relatively
thick, rubber insulated cables weight until it hits the floor, without letting
the plug slip out over time, until at least one spade starts losing contact.
As an additional hint: in this case, the ground pin is at the bottom, the 2
spades on top.
I'm simply reporting first hand experiences with the U.S. system, and compare
them to others with connector systems, where the removable part dives with its
housing into the receptacle to some degree.
Click to expand...

Firsthand experience of someone who is unable to anchor a heavy cord?


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
Spurious Response <SpuriousResponse@cleansignal.org> writes:

On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 07:37:47 GMT, Thomas Tornblom <thomas@Hax.SE> wrote:

It takes the same amount of energy to boil a quantity of water whether
you're using a 1 kW or 3 kW kettle. Infact it would probably take less
energy with the 3kW kettle as it gets the job done quicker, which
means less losses.


You also have to account for losses at the kettle itself. They do not
transfer 100% of the energy, and the higher wattage units radiate a lot
more, so they are slightly lossy-er.
Click to expand...
So where does the energy that is not transfered go?

Radiant heat losses is exactly why a more powerful kettle would
consume *less*. It gets the job done quicker and the time it will
radiate heat is shorter, which makes it more efficient.
 
In article <rg6r83paabrfhfrun7t3evntg5o7tf08jg@4ax.com>,
Spurious Response <SpuriousResponse@cleansignal.org> wrote:
You also have to account for losses at the kettle itself. They do not
transfer 100% of the energy, and the higher wattage units radiate a lot
more, so they are slightly lossy-er.
Click to expand...
Where does the 'spare' energy go? Pretty well all of the energy is
transferred to the water. Of course a lack of insulation means some of
this is wasted.

I'll stick with my infinitely (FAIAP) variable gas, thanks.
Click to expand...
A gas burner definitely doesn't transmit 100% of the energy to the water.

I'd say you've no experience of a 3kW electric kettle. They boil faster
than using a gas ring and of course cut off automatically. Gas also
produces moisture as it burns so makes more mess in the kitchen.

--
*When everything's coming your way, you're in the wrong lane *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
Spurious Response wrote:

You also have to account for losses at the kettle itself. They do not
transfer 100% of the energy, and the higher wattage units radiate a lot
more, so they are slightly lossy-er.

I'll stick with my infinitely (FAIAP) variable gas, thanks.
Click to expand...
Work it out. The element is entirely surrounded by the water you want to
heat. So all the energy, apart from that conducted bak into the cable,
passes into the water. Most electric kettles these days are plastic, so
not much gets throgh the sides. Rather more escapes through the top,
especially while the kettle is actually boiling- I use this energy to
preheat the teapot. So efficiency is pretty good. A more powerful kettle
is better because there is less heat lost through the top and sides when
you are heating it.

As for gas, most of the energy simply wafts round the outside of the
kettle, and never heats the water at all- it just heats the universe.
Which isn't to say that it's not generally the best way to cook.

Paul Burke
 
John Larkin wrote:

We pay a sliding scale for electricity here in San Francisco, from
about 10 cents to as much as 22, nonlinear on consumption, to
encourage saving
Click to expand...
Oy! It's the other way round here, you pay 22p/kWhr for the first N
units, then about 15p thereafter. It's supposed to cover fixed costs
like the meter (which was there years ago and must have payed for itself
many times over at that rate).
 
On Fri, 06 Jul 2007 09:58:41 +0100, the renowned "Dave Plowman (News)"
<dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

In article <rg6r83paabrfhfrun7t3evntg5o7tf08jg@4ax.com>,
Spurious Response <SpuriousResponse@cleansignal.org> wrote:
You also have to account for losses at the kettle itself. They do not
transfer 100% of the energy, and the higher wattage units radiate a lot
more, so they are slightly lossy-er.

Where does the 'spare' energy go? Pretty well all of the energy is
transferred to the water. Of course a lack of insulation means some of
this is wasted.

I'll stick with my infinitely (FAIAP) variable gas, thanks.

A gas burner definitely doesn't transmit 100% of the energy to the water.

I'd say you've no experience of a 3kW electric kettle. They boil faster
than using a gas ring and of course cut off automatically. Gas also
produces moisture as it burns so makes more mess in the kitchen.
Click to expand...
Modern auto-shutoff 'cordless' electric kettles are a great
convenience.


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
 
In article <659s83hpfrksd6gcogqutddf9l622nhho3@4ax.com>,
Spehro Pefhany <speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote:
Modern auto-shutoff 'cordless' electric kettles are a great
convenience.
Click to expand...
Crikey - they're hardly new. ;-)

--
*I'm already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
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