Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Spurious Response]

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 11:05:44 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
<dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

A 1000 watt kettle would take forever to boil. UK ones are normally
2500/3000 watts.

If you paid California electric rates, you wouldn't use it very many
times a year.

It must be nice to be able to build everything higher output, more
consumptive. We have to conserve here. Miniaturize.

What types of appliances get used in Japan? High wattage? Low?
Other places?

 

[Spurious Response]

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 21:23:06 GMT, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

bz wrote:

Figuring out what fed what was fun.


Try figuring out where 50+ pairs of audio cables go on a large school
intercom system, after some idiot kid rips all the wires loose, AND
removes the tags. It took two full 8 hr days.

Was it a Bogen intercom? They are a division of Lear Sigler. I worked
there at one time, years ago.

Beeping out each line should have been easy.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <468C10A6.908F6FD@earthlink.net>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

They were designed for exactly what they are used for: Portable, low
power equipment.

They first saw the light of day as (in a slightly modified form) a kettle
connector.

--
*I will always cherish the initial misconceptions I had about you

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <qt5o83tgamq9k06bj9if8n940sbihpeom6@4ax.com>,
Spurious Response <SpuriousResponse@cleansignal.org> wrote:

A 1000 watt kettle would take forever to boil. UK ones are normally
2500/3000 watts.

If you paid California electric rates, you wouldn't use it very many
times a year.

I'd be surprised if your electricity prices were higher than the UK.
However, with a kettle, I doubt if the size of element makes much
difference to the cost of boiling a fixed amount of water - only to the
time taken.

It must be nice to be able to build everything higher output, more
consumptive. We have to conserve here. Miniaturize.

Really? ;-)

What types of appliances get used in Japan? High wattage? Low?
Other places?

With any appliance basically heating things it simply does the job quicker
at higher power. May even be cheaper.

--
*If you think this van is dirty, you should try having sex with the driver*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <ng7o83ltvtv9pll9rqprle92i3v4q415ar@4ax.com>,
Spurious Response <SpuriousResponse@cleansignal.org> wrote:

Try figuring out where 50+ pairs of audio cables go on a large school
intercom system, after some idiot kid rips all the wires loose, AND
removes the tags. It took two full 8 hr days.

Was it a Bogen intercom? They are a division of Lear Sigler. I worked
there at one time, years ago.

Beeping out each line should have been easy.

I've yet to see an unmarked multi-pair cable.

--
*He who dies with the most toys is, nonetheless, dead.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Wolfi]

Am 03.07.07 22.52 schrieb Spurious Response:

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 02:31:10 GMT, Eeyore
rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:


Spurious Response wrote:

On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 15:38:29 -0500, Wolfi <publicalfa-ng@yahoo.fr> wrote:

If so, then you surely noticed the lousy Ampčre rating of mere 10A for it,
which is just 2.3kW, rather than the 3.68kW which you have with a 16A
connector system?
If I do not need 16 A power feeds as a result of not having any 16 A
power requisites, then why would I need a 16 A cord and receptacle
system?
The standards aren't set around one person's requirements.

Graham

"I" was a euphemistic "I", idiot.

As in I that represents any joe sixpack homeowner.

One does not need 16 Amp per outlet capacity.

Good luck plugging in a switchable 1200/1500W electric room heater, when 1200W
just don't warm enough or a fix power 1350W type or a decent ľ-wave.with 1kW
or 1.1kW *output* power, sucking about 1.5kW out of the wall.

 

[bz]

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in
news:468C0FBD.3CC7C946@earthlink.net:

bz wrote:

Figuring out what fed what was fun.


Try figuring out where 50+ pairs of audio cables go on a large school
intercom system, after some idiot kid rips all the wires loose, AND
removes the tags. It took two full 8 hr days.

Bet you got a 'buzz' out of that.




--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[James Sweet]

Where, at twice the voltage, you need it even less.

There's plenty of 3kW equipment here.

Graham

How about we quit feeding the troll, and quit crossposting as well.

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 14:04:20 -0700, the renowned Spurious Response
<SpuriousResponse@cleansignal.org> wrote:

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 04:35:47 GMT, Eeyore
rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:



Spurious Response wrote:

Eeyore wrote:
Spurious Response wrote:
Wolfi <publicalfa-ng@yahoo.fr> wrote:

If so, then you surely noticed the lousy Ampčre rating of mere 10A for it,
which is just 2.3kW, rather than the 3.68kW which you have with a 16A
connector system?

If I do not need 16 A power feeds as a result of not having any 16 A
power requisites, then why would I need a 16 A cord and receptacle
system?

The standards aren't set around one person's requirements.

"I" was a euphemistic "I", idiot.

As in I that represents any joe sixpack homeowner.

One does not need 16 Amp per outlet capacity.

It's widely used in Europe.

Graham


Where, at twice the voltage, you need it even less.

Who wants to be forced to use a puny 1500W appliance such as an
electric kettle?

3,000W gets the job done fast.


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

 

[Eeyore]

Spurious Response wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

A 1000 watt kettle would take forever to boil. UK ones are normally
2500/3000 watts.

If you paid California electric rates, you wouldn't use it very many
times a year.

What are those rates ?

Graham

 

[Spurious Response]

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 23:55:05 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
<dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

In article <ng7o83ltvtv9pll9rqprle92i3v4q415ar@4ax.com>,
Spurious Response <SpuriousResponse@cleansignal.org> wrote:
Try figuring out where 50+ pairs of audio cables go on a large school
intercom system, after some idiot kid rips all the wires loose, AND
removes the tags. It took two full 8 hr days.


Was it a Bogen intercom? They are a division of Lear Sigler. I worked
there at one time, years ago.

Beeping out each line should have been easy.

I've yet to see an unmarked multi-pair cable.

It may have been individual twisted pair runs to each room.

 

[Thomas Tornblom]

Spurious Response <SpuriousResponse@cleansignal.org> writes:

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 11:05:44 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

A 1000 watt kettle would take forever to boil. UK ones are normally
2500/3000 watts.


If you paid California electric rates, you wouldn't use it very many
times a year.

It takes the same amount of energy to boil a quantity of water whether
you're using a 1 kW or 3 kW kettle. Infact it would probably take less
energy with the 3kW kettle as it gets the job done quicker, which
means less losses.

It must be nice to be able to build everything higher output, more
consumptive. We have to conserve here. Miniaturize.

Agreed, but you can't really save on a kettle, unless you switch to
some alternate energy source.

What types of appliances get used in Japan? High wattage? Low?
Other places?

Not an appliance, and in Sweden, not Japan, but I have lowered my
hosehold energy consumption from 40+ MWh annually to around 18 by
converting from direct electrical heating to a rock heat pump, and
paying attention to the consumption of appliances.

I have a 200 m drilled collector in my back yard that feeds the heat
pump. The collector is also used as a source (drain?) for cooling in
the summer. One only needs to pump the +8° brine coming from the
collector through a few convectors, no need to run any compressor.

I'm currently installing the air conditioning parts of the system,
which when finished will provide about 10 kW of cooling power for about
300 W of input power to run a brine pump and the fans in the
convectors. Theoretically it will also warm up the collector slightly,
which improves winter operation, but that is marginal, if any.

Oh, and while were talking about electrical systems, domestic feeds in
Sweden are almost universally 400V three phase.

My main fuses are 25A. When we bought the house in 1987 it had 20A
fuses, and electrical heating. One of the main fuses would
occasionally trip in the winter when the washer and stove was used,
while the radiators were running on full blast. Switching to 25A fuses
solved that. After the heatpump conversion I can most likely go back
to 20A fuses and save some on the electrical bill.

When we bought the house, the stove, washer, dryer, boiler and sauna
were all wired for three phase 400V operation. The radiators were 400V
two phase. The new washer and dryer are single phase 230V units, and
we've ripped out the sauna and the heatpump produces the hot water, so
the stove and heatpump are the only remaining three phase consumers.

 

[Paul Burke]

Spurious Response wrote:

If you paid California electric rates, you wouldn't use it very many
times a year.

Apart from the fact that the energy used in a more powerful kettle is
slightly less, the rates in California appear to be about 12-15c/kWhr,
compared with my UK rate of 9p (~18c). The big difference in costs here
is that the climate is such that we don't need (and most of us don't
have) air- conditioning.

Paul Burke

 

On 3 Jul, 19:05, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

In article <1183484676.412962.92...@o61g2000hsh.googlegroups.com>,
meow2...@care2.com> wrote:
On 2 Jul, 16:45, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
In article <1183386092.754391.278...@m36g2000hse.googlegroups.com>,
meow2...@care2.com> wrote:

Who cares? I unplug and plug in items that are turned on all the
time, worst case you get a little spark, it doesn't cause any
problems. It's not hot enough to pit the plug prongs or contacts.
Its well known that repeated small sparks make a total mess of the
contact surface. This was one of the problems of our olf round pin
system half a century ago.

You'd have to explain that. Most of the old round pin sockets were
switched - unswitched was a short lived fashion with 13 amp stuff. At
least in my experience.

The old round pin sockets were far more likely to be overloaded,
though.
Round pin systems did not consistently have good contact arrangement,
leading to frequent bad connections between plug & socket, producing
the same type of damage as occurs with unswitched sockets.

I'd say it depended on the quality of the fitting

The problem is transmittable, thus only one bad socket was needed for
the problem to occur and spread to the others. So good sockets went
down too.

The way it occurs is one bad contact occurs, the plug pins get
damaged, and when damaged pins are inserted into a good socket, bad
contact occurs due to copper oxide and a rough surface. So the good
socket is damaged. Plug something else into it, that plug gets damaged
etc.

Slow process, but have seen it happen. AFAIK its the only electrically
transmissible disease

- given most plug/socket
arrangements have round pins. Including the heavy duty BS4343 type.

Nowt wrong with round pins. The problem is that some of the older
sockets didnt implement contact springing, either at all or
effectively. Sometimes the split plug pin was the only sprung part,
which is no good at all on 15A 3 pin plugs.


NT

 

On 4 Jul, 22:59, Spurious Response <SpuriousRespo...@cleansignal.org>
wrote:

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 11:05:44 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
d...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
A 1000 watt kettle would take forever to boil. UK ones are normally
2500/3000 watts.

If you paid California electric rates, you wouldn't use it very many
times a year.

It must be nice to be able to build everything higher output, more
consumptive. We have to conserve here. Miniaturize.

Wrong way round. A 3kW kettle takes less energy to boil a given amount
of water, not more. The energy required to heat the water (and nothing
else) is the same regardless of power, but the heat losses are larger
with a 1kW kettle, since it takes apx 3x as long, losing about 3x as
much heat to the air.


NT

 

On Jul 4, 12:12 pm, Yappinwolf <dli41...@yahoo.com> wrote:

We didn't do that....

Uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.......

That was other kids...

Uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.... yeah....

That was other kids....

-YW-

You dont have any kids, lezzies like you, do not have kids
butch.....You gotta get porked, to have kids.

 

On Jul 4, 12:12 pm, Yappinwolf <dli41...@yahoo.com> wrote:

We didn't do that....

Uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.......

That was other kids...

Uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.... yeah....

That was other kids....

-YW-

You dont have any kids, lezzies like you, do not have kids
butch.....You gotta get porked, to have kids.

 

[bz]

Thomas Tornblom <thomas@Hax.SE> wrote in news:x0d4z7e1x4.fsf@Hax.SE:

Switching to 25A fuses
solved that. After the heatpump conversion I can most likely go back
to 20A fuses and save some on the electrical bill.

How would going to 20A fuses save some on the electric bill?



--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[Thomas Tornblom]

bz <bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> writes:

Thomas Tornblom <thomas@Hax.SE> wrote in news:x0d4z7e1x4.fsf@Hax.SE:

Switching to 25A fuses
solved that. After the heatpump conversion I can most likely go back
to 20A fuses and save some on the electrical bill.


How would going to 20A fuses save some on the electric bill?

There are two parts to the bill, one consumption part, which obviosuly
is not affected by this, and then a fixed part, which is dependent on
the installed main fuse. The weaker the fuse, the less the fixed part
is.

When we moved in there was different tariffs for 16, 20, 25, 35A, but
after a few years they dropped the 16 and 20 A tariffs. Now they are
reinstating them.

It will increase the fixed part by about $150 a year, which is not
enough for me to bother. I rather not have to get out and replace
blown fuses.

--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

Thomas

 

[John Larkin]

On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 09:05:33 +0100, Paul Burke <paul@scazon.com>
wrote:

Spurious Response wrote:

If you paid California electric rates, you wouldn't use it very many
times a year.

Apart from the fact that the energy used in a more powerful kettle is
slightly less, the rates in California appear to be about 12-15c/kWhr,
compared with my UK rate of 9p (~18c). The big difference in costs here
is that the climate is such that we don't need (and most of us don't
have) air- conditioning.

Paul Burke

We pay a sliding scale for electricity here in San Francisco, from
about 10 cents to as much as 22, nonlinear on consumption, to
encourage saving. But we gat our heat and cooking from natural gas,
and don't have a/c. At 7 AM, July 5, the forced-air heat is on. We pay
more for gas than for electricity, maybe $200 a month total for both.

John