Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

On 2006-02-28, Adam Funk (aka Bruce)
was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:
On 2006-02-28, TimC <tconnors@no.spam.accepted.here-astro.swin.edu.au> wrote:

Note to Darla: If you can get hold of an old 1.1GB drive from a Cray
YMP um something, then they're great. The drive was about 16 inches
long, 5 inches tall, 8 inches wide, and weighed about 15kg (all going
by memory here), much of it solid metal. I spent about an hour trying
to separate the magnets when they inadvertently came together
(FNARR!).

P.S. If anyone can give me the instructions to wire up the 10-14
connectors of the motor, I would be thouroughly grateful. I too like
big magnets, and would love to see how powerful the drive is when it
spins up to full speed. Mmmmm, angular momentum.

Red +
Black -
is usually a good place to start.
Click to expand...
What about grey grey grey grey grey grey grey grey grey grey -> black
connector?

--
TimC
"Eppur si muove!" (And yet it does move!)
-- Galileo Galilei
 
On 2006-02-28, TimC <tconnors@no.spam.accepted.here-astro.swin.edu.au> wrote:

Red +
Black -
is usually a good place to start.

What about grey grey grey grey grey grey grey grey grey grey -> black
connector?
Click to expand...
Hook those up to any other equal number of loose connectors you find.
Then start swapping them around to reduce the knocking.
 
On 2006-02-28, Adam Funk (aka Bruce)
was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:
On 2006-02-28, TimC <tconnors@no.spam.accepted.here-astro.swin.edu.au> wrote:

Red +
Black -
is usually a good place to start.

What about grey grey grey grey grey grey grey grey grey grey -> black
connector?

Hook those up to any other equal number of loose connectors you find.
Then start swapping them around to reduce the knocking.
Click to expand...
The power socket to the whole thing was proprietry (and I can't even
identify which one was power). No hope of getting the motherboard to
work, so I was hoping the motor might be just a little easier. Alas.

--
TimC
Skywalker> You are either with me, or you are my enemy.
Only a Sith deals in absolutes. -- Obi Wan Kenobi on George Bush Jnr
 
You'll be disappointed. The motors are fast but not all
that powerful.

Adam Funk wrote:

P.S. If anyone can give me the instructions to wire up the 10-14
connectors of the motor, I would be thouroughly grateful. I too like
big magnets, and would love to see how powerful the drive is when it
spins up to full speed. Mmmmm, angular momentum.


Red +
Black -
is usually a good place to start.
Click to expand...
 
Mike Berger wrote:
You'll be disappointed. The motors are fast but not all
that powerful.

Adam Funk wrote:

P.S. If anyone can give me the instructions to wire up the 10-14
connectors of the motor, I would be thouroughly grateful. I too like
big magnets, and would love to see how powerful the drive is when it
spins up to full speed. Mmmmm, angular momentum.



Red +
Black -
is usually a good place to start.
Click to expand...
It's actually kinda problematic because all those wires? Those are
typically controled via the daughterboard on the drive. What normally
would be done via brushes in the moter (energizing the next
electromagnet in series to make the armature turn) is done via that
daughterboard so that the drives speed can be carefully controled.
You'd have to make a similar circuit that would stat each wire with b+
sequentially. Might be fun. :)
 
A synchronizing pulse is fed back from the collector of the HOT
through R511, C511, R512, D508, R513 buffered by Q510, R509, R508
through R514, R520 centering control, R500, C500 to pin 13 of IC270
signal processor. Likely something in this pathway has gone awry.

In article <140083b5fcb7b4134650c4a0498c3fe9
@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com>,
amaverik@nospam.verizon.net says...
Consistent loss of horizontal sync-can't find any adjustment on chassis
related to horizontal other than centering. Anyone have a clue? Thanx!!
Click to expand...
 
Looks like they have some of the idiots from here going over there . I
have seen some good post there by techs buit seems like we may have
Kip and a few others going there and putting in crap in the
responces.
 
can any one suggest me a circuit
with commonly available components...
Click to expand...
No but I can recomend a good hearing specialist
for the damage it will do to you.
 
On 1 Mar 2006 21:06:10 -0800, "krive" <getmehunk@gmail.com> wrote:

hi all,

I need an amplifier for my car's player. Its a 12V 140 Watt (35 X 4) ,
I wan it to give me 240 Watt(40 X 6), can any one suggest me a circuit
with commonly available components...

I am frm INDIA.

pls its urgent.

thanks in advance,
krive.
Click to expand...
You need to amplify yours one cell brain.
 
YOU just dont get it do you ?
kip
"tvguy" <no@spam.invalid> wrote in message
news:zjHNf.152243$5d2.89295@fe12.news.easynews.com...
Looks like they have some of the idiots from here going over there . I
have seen some good post there by techs buit seems like we may have
Kip and a few others going there and putting in crap in the
responces.
Click to expand...
 
hi all,

I need an amplifier for my car's player. Its a 12V 140 Watt (35 X 4) ,
I wan it to give me 240 Watt(40 X 6), can any one suggest me a circuit
with commonly available components...

I am frm INDIA.

pls its urgent.

thanks in advance,
krive.

<<

I really don't think you want to build. I'm sure its cheaper to find
something.
Used on Ebay or something. The amplifier layout seems strange, maybe
5.1.
I'm seeing strange comments here. I have well over 200 watts in my
truck stereo
and I could definately use more power.
greg
 
Sunn will not sell service information or sell the parts for many of their
models. There are some models for some reason, that they will give out
service information.

Contact Sunn Service for the necessary information about how to have your
system serviced.

Sunn Service
http://www.sunnamps.com/service_centers.html

--

Jerry G.
======


"spankey" <circuit88@specialtymile.com> wrote in message
news:1141249391.072895.270730@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
I know this may seem like the wrong place but these are for a band not
a large theatre and I have seen lots of dimmers come over my audio work
bench. Now I need help withn one that is mine now.

If anyone can, please help me. I am writing from Albuquerque. I am in
search for a schematic or chip identification for a Sunn Spot dimmer
pack. I have an old sunn PSR1208 8 channel 1200 watts per and need the
find the numbers of all the chips on the firing cards. Mine is missing
two chips on each circuit board and without them it won't talk
microplex. There is a jumper inside I assume that has to be moved over
so it talks microplex or 0-10 volts. The 0-10 works fine but I need to
get the MPX working. I don't know it they are the same circuit boards
inside as the 1200 and 600 or 300 dimmer packs but I am suspect that
they are.
Anyway, do you have a schematic I could get a copy of or the numbers
on the chips. I can eliminate the possibilities because all my chips
are there except for two that have different numbers of pins.

Thanks, Spankey
505-277-4409
mailto:spankey@eece.unm.edu
 
It would be cheaper, and a lot more reliable for you to find something from
a dealer. Did
you look for one using Google, or on eBay?

I was wondering... What would you want 240 WATTS in a car for? If you turn
it up loud enough, maybe we will hear it here in Canada! Do you have a good
ear doctor?

A number of years ago, I saw a very serious accident where a car got hit by
an ambulance. Apparently, they said that the driver was listening to very
loud music in the car, and he never heard the ambulance siren. His
passengers were killed!

Listening to loud music, and using a mobile phone while driving is a very
dangerious practice.

--

Jerry G.
======


"krive" <getmehunk@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1141275970.283928.201180@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
hi all,

I need an amplifier for my car's player. Its a 12V 140 Watt (35 X 4) ,
I wan it to give me 240 Watt(40 X 6), can any one suggest me a circuit
with commonly available components...

I am frm INDIA.

pls its urgent.

thanks in advance,
krive.
 
On Thu, 2 Mar 2006 20:45:14 +0800, "fixpc" <fixpc@dotcom.com> put
finger to keyboard and composed:

is CMOS = BIOS in motherboard?
Click to expand...
No. Modern motherboards contain BIOS code in a flash EEPROM. The
realtime clock (RTC) and CMOS RAM are located in a different chip, or
are built into the chipset. CMOS RAM consists of 128 or 256 bytes
which store info such as date and time, chipset register settings,
hard drive geometry, etc. The flash EEPROM stores the compressed BIOS
code and the ESCD table. The latter contains device specific settings
such as lists of allowable IRQ, DMA, and IO addresses for PnP devices.
After exiting BIOS setup, you may see an "updating NVRAM" message
during the POST. This usually indicates that the ESCD table within the
EEPROM is being updated. The same message does not appear after
changing memory timings, for example, because these are determined by
chipset register settings which are written to CMOS RAM.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
 
You should go over to repair world Kip. You`ll fit in just right. All
the good techs there are now leaving for a better place.
 
On 3/2/06 6:06 PM, in article
JwNNf.341383$c31.295863@fe08.news.easynews.com, "tvguy" <no@spam.invalid>
wrote:

You should go over to repair world Kip. You`ll fit in just right. All
the good techs there are now leaving for a better place.
Click to expand...
I guess, given your low opinion of this board and the techs who hang out
here, you must consider yourself a POS or you wouldn't be here. In which
case, I agree you come across as a POS.
 
"fixpc" <fixpc@dotcom.com> wrote in message news:4406e8da$1@127.0.0.1...
is CMOS = BIOS in motherboard?


TIA
Click to expand...
BIOS = software (firmware) for motherboard

CMOS = hardware (memory of specific type)

Windows = Intel in computer (no)
 
I Do respect some of the techs on this site when they use common since
on how they help someone out by trying to find out what type of
experience they have to do a curtain type of repair but when you got
guys like this Kip on here that really don`t give a crap and tells
them to go further than what they should then it is no good. There is
a proper way to help someone and then there is a sloppy way and I find
Kip and a few others use the sloppy way. Thats just my opinion.
 
I Do respect some of the techs on this site when they use common since
on how they help someone out by trying to find out what type of
experience they have to do a curtain type of repair but when you got
guys like this Kip on here that really don`t give a crap and tells
them to go further than what they should then it is no good. There is
a proper way to help someone and then there is a sloppy way and I find
Kip and a few others use the sloppy way. Thats just my opinion.
 
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