Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

<chase_p_a@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1140710253.469490.183120@e56g2000cwe.googlegroups.com...
http://www.velleman.be/ot/en/product/view/?id=360356

(The description of a "200W" amplifier is marketing BS. It's actually a
70-100W amp, ideal for the Rick which was originally 75W).

Keep in mind, he's using it as a quitar amp, not a hi-fi or PA amp. We don't
mind if it clips, in fact it's a desired effect.
 
Ron(UK) wrote:

chase_p_a@yahoo.co.uk wrote:
http://www.velleman.be/ot/en/product/view/?id=360356

(The description of a "200W" amplifier is marketing BS. It's actually a
70-100W amp, ideal for the Rick which was originally 75W).


Hmm CPC dont seem to stock them, I wonder how they stand up to abuse.
I much regret the discontinuation of the Maplin 150watt Mosfet Amp which
was perfect for resurecting old 70`s H=H and Carlsbro amps. I must have
built well over 50 of those kits.
The Velleman kit is also from Maplin.

I built one of the 150watt MOSFET amps about 15 years ago and it served
me well for 10 years.

I can't give the same recommendation for this Vellman module, as it
just went up in smoke after working (with good undistorted sound coming
out and everything) for 5 minutes. No doubt I did something wrong, but
I'm completely at a loss to know what.

Completely disheartened. Giving up on whole project.
 
testing_h@yahoo.com wrote:
I usually use Chipquik for the stubborn ones. Slowly lifting one lead
(use a temp controlled iron though) then the other alternately seems to
work as well.

-A

I use a vacuum desoldering iron. If it doesn't remove all of the
solder, I refill the PTH with 60/40 solder. The solder used for wave
solder is 80/20, which has a higher melting temperature. The two
solders mix, lowering the required heat to melt all of the solder in the
PTH.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
In article <1140786849.015916.249650@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>,
<chase_p_a@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
The Velleman kit is also from Maplin.
Yes - but not a Maplin kit.

I built one of the 150watt MOSFET amps about 15 years ago and it served
me well for 10 years.
I've still got several in use around the country. ;-)

I really miss the genuine Maplin kits - they seemed to address holes in
the market, although probably only at that time. I dunno what killed them
off - perhaps the cost of CE approval, etc.

--
*Some people are only alive because it is illegal to kill.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
Mike G wrote:

If you need your computer repaired, I'm your guy.

For more questioning,
Email at "mikescomputerrepairservice@gmail.com"
Read what group you're on. Almost everyone here can repair their own
computers, or help each other do it.
 
If you need your computer repaired, I'm your guy.
Anyone who needs to spam like you do is only
going to be yet another bodging idiot.
 
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article <1140786849.015916.249650@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>,
chase_p_a@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

The Velleman kit is also from Maplin.


Yes - but not a Maplin kit.


I built one of the 150watt MOSFET amps about 15 years ago and it served
me well for 10 years.


I've still got several in use around the country. ;-)

I really miss the genuine Maplin kits - they seemed to address holes in
the market, although probably only at that time.

I dunno what killed them off - perhaps the cost of CE approval, etc.

Shortage of the output mosfets I believe, I found a supply of bare
circuit boards at a ham radio fair rally some years ago.

Ron(UK)



--
Lune Valley Audio
Public address system
Hire, Sales, Repairs
www.lunevalleyaudio.com
 
In article <dtpdm4$5qe$2@nwrdmz02.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com>,
Ron(UK) <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote:
I really miss the genuine Maplin kits - they seemed to address holes in
the market, although probably only at that time.

I dunno what killed them off - perhaps the cost of CE approval, etc.

Shortage of the output mosfets I believe, I found a supply of bare
circuit boards at a ham radio fair rally some years ago.
2SK135 and 2SJ50 both in stock at RS components.

--
*Hard work pays off in the future. Laziness pays off now *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article <dtpdm4$5qe$2@nwrdmz02.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com>,
Ron(UK) <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote:

I really miss the genuine Maplin kits - they seemed to address holes in
the market, although probably only at that time.



I dunno what killed them off - perhaps the cost of CE approval, etc.


Shortage of the output mosfets I believe, I found a supply of bare
circuit boards at a ham radio fair rally some years ago.


2SK135 and 2SJ50 both in stock at RS components.
I dunno then, I dont think kits need CE approval especially if they
aren't mains powered, I could be wrong tho.

Some years ago I dismantled an old Studiomaster 1000watt mosfet
amplifier with a burnt out mains tranny, and that furnished me with
enough power mosfets to make about a dozen 150 watt modules up. I made
up some boards of my own with double the number of output devices which
proved quite sucessful too.

That same Hitachi[1] based design turns up in a multitude of guitar and
pa amps from the 80`s and 90`s virtually anything with the words mosfet
on the front. The actual output section rarely gives trouble. (IME)

[1] I believe.

Ron(UK)


--
Lune Valley Audio
Public address system
Hire, Sales, Repairs
www.lunevalleyaudio.com
 
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 19:29:01 -0000, dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)
Gave us:

In article <Xns977263A612FB664A18E@66.250.146.159>,
Zak <duff@nomail.invalid> wrote:

Can I buy something in the UK like a conducting "shim" to insert
between batteries and measure current?

I'd look around for a scrap piece of the thinnest double-sided
PC-board copperclad that I could find. A few years ago I picked up a
few sheets of a very flexible double-sided copperclad - maybe .5 mm
thick - at a local surplus store. Quite useful stuff to have around.
Measuring a rechargeable battery is one thing, but if one is
attempting to measure non rechargeable batteries this way, one will
deplete the batteries with each and every measurement cycle.
 
Roy L. Fuchs wrote:
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 19:29:01 -0000, dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)
Gave us:


In article <Xns977263A612FB664A18E@66.250.146.159>,
Zak <duff@nomail.invalid> wrote:


Can I buy something in the UK like a conducting "shim" to insert
between batteries and measure current?

I'd look around for a scrap piece of the thinnest double-sided
PC-board copperclad that I could find. A few years ago I picked up a
few sheets of a very flexible double-sided copperclad - maybe .5 mm
thick - at a local surplus store. Quite useful stuff to have around.


Measuring a rechargeable battery is one thing, but if one is
attempting to measure non rechargeable batteries this way, one will
deplete the batteries with each and every measurement cycle.
Hi...

But only by the amount that the device it in uses; and only for
the duration of the test...

Or is there something here I'm not seeing?

Ken
 
In article <fbq102t06vgk861bduqq8hstrnuabdk9i3@4ax.com>,
Roy L. Fuchs <roylfuchs@urfargingicehole.org> wrote:

Can I buy something in the UK like a conducting "shim" to insert
between batteries and measure current?

I'd look around for a scrap piece of the thinnest double-sided
PC-board copperclad that I could find. A few years ago I picked up a
few sheets of a very flexible double-sided copperclad - maybe .5 mm
thick - at a local surplus store. Quite useful stuff to have around.

Measuring a rechargeable battery is one thing, but if one is
attempting to measure non rechargeable batteries this way, one will
deplete the batteries with each and every measurement cycle.
I don't see that at all, if the device is used in the way that I
think the original poster had intended. The "conducting shim" has
contacts on both sides. The two sides are connected together
electrically through a current meter of some sort. To measure the
current drawn from a battery, one would insert the shim in between two
cells in a battery (breaking the normal connection between the cells'
contacts with the shim) and then turn on the load for a few seconds.
The normal flow of current to the load would go from one cell, along
one side of the shim, out into the current meter, back into the other
side of the shim, and out into the other cell of the battery.

There would be no additional losses except for the slight resistive
loss in the shim and the current meter. If the load is switched off,
no current will flow and no battery power/capacity will be depleted.
The shim doesn't create a _new_ load for the battery - it just
provides a convenient way to insert a current meter into the current
path for measurement.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
 
"Roy L. Fuchs" <roylfuchs@urfargingicehole.org> wrote in message
news:fbq102t06vgk861bduqq8hstrnuabdk9i3@4ax.com...
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 19:29:01 -0000, dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)
Gave us:

In article <Xns977263A612FB664A18E@66.250.146.159>,
Zak <duff@nomail.invalid> wrote:

Can I buy something in the UK like a conducting "shim" to insert
between batteries and measure current?

I'd look around for a scrap piece of the thinnest double-sided
PC-board copperclad that I could find. A few years ago I picked up a
few sheets of a very flexible double-sided copperclad - maybe .5 mm
thick - at a local surplus store. Quite useful stuff to have around.

Measuring a rechargeable battery is one thing, but if one is
attempting to measure non rechargeable batteries this way, one will
deplete the batteries with each and every measurement cycle.
Indeed. I use a 3v lithium battery in my PZMs; I've never had to replace
them.

Norm Strong
 
So what you're saying is that I need the identical original remote.
The one that I bought was stated as such, or as a replacement as such.
it is identical but without the "light-up" button features. Does
anyone know if the original remote for my tv works on any other current
models? Maybe I should take it toCircuit city and start zpping big
screens to see if I get a response. Hmmm....any ideas? Thanks
 
skatehouse@cox.net wrote:
So what you're saying is that I need the identical original remote.
The one that I bought was stated as such, or as a replacement as such.
it is identical but without the "light-up" button features. Does
anyone know if the original remote for my tv works on any other current
models? Maybe I should take it toCircuit city and start zpping big
screens to see if I get a response. Hmmm....any ideas? Thanks


This is really getting to be a major PITA. I just cycled through three
universal remotes unsuccessfully trying to find one which would access
menu functions on an old Sharp 27". I've been using it in 'monitor'
mode, but need to move it, to replace another standalone set in the
house which has developed a sound fault.

I need to reprogram channels...can get in 'program' mode, but with that
one remote, I can't find an 'enter' button which works. The other two:
one offers no 'menu' button whatever...one doesn't access the menu
(despite each of the two Sharp TV codes).

At least with only two code schemes, I (maybe) have a 50/50 chance of
picking up a second-hand Sharp original which will work.

With all the government interference with TV manufacturers, you'd think
there'd be some kind of rule mandating full functionality from the
panel...even if it was some arcane combo of button punches.

jak
 
Roy L. Fuchs wrote:
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 19:29:01 -0000, dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)
Gave us:


In article <Xns977263A612FB664A18E@66.250.146.159>,
Zak <duff@nomail.invalid> wrote:


Can I buy something in the UK like a conducting "shim" to insert
between batteries and measure current?

I'd look around for a scrap piece of the thinnest double-sided
PC-board copperclad that I could find. A few years ago I picked up a
few sheets of a very flexible double-sided copperclad - maybe .5 mm
thick - at a local surplus store. Quite useful stuff to have around.


Measuring a rechargeable battery is one thing, but if one is
attempting to measure non rechargeable batteries this way, one will
deplete the batteries with each and every measurement cycle.
I'm sorry....how can this be? Anything inserted in series with the
battery will only raise the load resistance causing less current to
flow, not more.

Jim
 
On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 13:35:57 -0800, the renowned Jim Poore
<jpoore3@earthlink.net> wrote:

Roy L. Fuchs wrote:
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 19:29:01 -0000, dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)
Gave us:


In article <Xns977263A612FB664A18E@66.250.146.159>,
Zak <duff@nomail.invalid> wrote:


Can I buy something in the UK like a conducting "shim" to insert
between batteries and measure current?

I'd look around for a scrap piece of the thinnest double-sided
PC-board copperclad that I could find. A few years ago I picked up a
few sheets of a very flexible double-sided copperclad - maybe .5 mm
thick - at a local surplus store. Quite useful stuff to have around.


Measuring a rechargeable battery is one thing, but if one is
attempting to measure non rechargeable batteries this way, one will
deplete the batteries with each and every measurement cycle.
I'm sorry....how can this be? Anything inserted in series with the
battery will only raise the load resistance causing less current to
flow, not more.

Jim
Maybe. If there's a switching regulator, then inserting a voltage drop
will cause more current to be drawn from the batteries.



Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
 
Jim Poore <jpoore3@earthlink.net> wrote in news:2hKMf.817$%F5.553@fe03.lga:

Roy L. Fuchs wrote:
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 19:29:01 -0000, dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)
Gave us:


In article <Xns977263A612FB664A18E@66.250.146.159>,
Zak <duff@nomail.invalid> wrote:


Can I buy something in the UK like a conducting "shim" to insert
between batteries and measure current?

I'd look around for a scrap piece of the thinnest double-sided
PC-board copperclad that I could find. A few years ago I picked up a
few sheets of a very flexible double-sided copperclad - maybe .5 mm
thick - at a local surplus store. Quite useful stuff to have around.


Measuring a rechargeable battery is one thing, but if one is
attempting to measure non rechargeable batteries this way, one will
deplete the batteries with each and every measurement cycle.

I'm sorry....how can this be? Anything inserted in series with the
battery will only raise the load resistance causing less current to
flow, not more.

Jim
Use a TEK AM503/P6302 or other DC current probe and a wire loop;the added
resistance would be negligible.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 
Spehro Pefhany <speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote in
news:7q1702tr4gsck96mdbadg6cgg14u6o6pa5@4ax.com:

On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 13:35:57 -0800, the renowned Jim Poore
jpoore3@earthlink.net> wrote:

Roy L. Fuchs wrote:
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 19:29:01 -0000, dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)
Gave us:


In article <Xns977263A612FB664A18E@66.250.146.159>,
Zak <duff@nomail.invalid> wrote:


Can I buy something in the UK like a conducting "shim" to insert
between batteries and measure current?

I'd look around for a scrap piece of the thinnest double-sided
PC-board copperclad that I could find. A few years ago I picked up a
few sheets of a very flexible double-sided copperclad - maybe .5 mm
thick - at a local surplus store. Quite useful stuff to have around.


Measuring a rechargeable battery is one thing, but if one is
attempting to measure non rechargeable batteries this way, one will
deplete the batteries with each and every measurement cycle.
I'm sorry....how can this be? Anything inserted in series with the
battery will only raise the load resistance causing less current to
flow, not more.

Jim

Maybe. If there's a switching regulator, then inserting a voltage drop
will cause more current to be drawn from the batteries.



Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
What do you expect that voltage drop from a DMM in current mode to be?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 
On 2006-02-28, TimC <tconnors@no.spam.accepted.here-astro.swin.edu.au> wrote:

Note to Darla: If you can get hold of an old 1.1GB drive from a Cray
YMP um something, then they're great. The drive was about 16 inches
long, 5 inches tall, 8 inches wide, and weighed about 15kg (all going
by memory here), much of it solid metal. I spent about an hour trying
to separate the magnets when they inadvertently came together
(FNARR!).

P.S. If anyone can give me the instructions to wire up the 10-14
connectors of the motor, I would be thouroughly grateful. I too like
big magnets, and would love to see how powerful the drive is when it
spins up to full speed. Mmmmm, angular momentum.
Red +
Black -
is usually a good place to start.
 

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