Guest
Crossposted to sci.electronics.repair; it gets more traffic.
John Doe <always.look@message.header> wrote:
Sometimes if you scroll waaaay down and read the fine print, it will say
"compatible replacement", or some other words that mean that you're not
actually getting what is in the big picture at the top of the page.
Depends on what kind of battery it is. I am in the US so I look at US
suppliers.
For gel cells - the things that go in most every "computer" UPS under
1000 VA or so, house alarm systems, etc - I order from Digi-Key or
Mouser, either Panasonic or Power-Sonic brand. I've been unhappy with
every other brand of these that I've tried.
For NiMH AAs, the only online shopping I've done is a pack of Eneloops
from Amazon. As far as I can tell, I got genuine cells, and their
performance has been as expected. Make sure it says "sold by and ships
from Amazon.com" in the listing; I think there's a check box for that,
which you can use when searching.
For a Li-ion battery for an older cell phone, I sighed deeply and bought
from the seller with the most sales and best feedback who stocked that
particular battery on eBay. I'm pretty sure I got a genuine battery,
but it had an old date code; it had probably been sitting on the shelf
for a couple of years. It took a few charge cycles to wake back up, but
it is doing as well as can be expected.
I don't think I've ever bought alkaline / carbon-zinc primary batteries
online. I've checked prices from online-only sellers, but in the small
quantities of AAA, AA, C, D that I use, it's usually just about the same
as going to the local discount store. For coin or button batteries, the
local prices seem to be vastly inflated vs. online, but then the minimum
shipping charge cuts in. If I happened to be ordering something else
from Digi-Key or Mouser, then it might pay to order a coin cell from
them.
For NiCd power tool batteries, I had my existing packs rebuilt by a
local Batteries Plus store. I don't know what kind of cells they used,
but they work a lot better than the worn-out original ones, and the
rebuild price of about $35 was better than the new-pack price of $50+.
The last time I was involved with buying lead-acid traction batteries
several years ago, I think the place where I worked got them directly
from the manufacturer (Enersys, nee Hawker, nee Gates). That seemed to
work OK.
Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration
from any companies mentioned.
Matt Roberds
John Doe <always.look@message.header> wrote:
Sometimes if you scroll waaaay down and read the fine print, it will say
"compatible replacement", or some other words that mean that you're not
actually getting what is in the big picture at the top of the page.
Depends on what kind of battery it is. I am in the US so I look at US
suppliers.
For gel cells - the things that go in most every "computer" UPS under
1000 VA or so, house alarm systems, etc - I order from Digi-Key or
Mouser, either Panasonic or Power-Sonic brand. I've been unhappy with
every other brand of these that I've tried.
For NiMH AAs, the only online shopping I've done is a pack of Eneloops
from Amazon. As far as I can tell, I got genuine cells, and their
performance has been as expected. Make sure it says "sold by and ships
from Amazon.com" in the listing; I think there's a check box for that,
which you can use when searching.
For a Li-ion battery for an older cell phone, I sighed deeply and bought
from the seller with the most sales and best feedback who stocked that
particular battery on eBay. I'm pretty sure I got a genuine battery,
but it had an old date code; it had probably been sitting on the shelf
for a couple of years. It took a few charge cycles to wake back up, but
it is doing as well as can be expected.
I don't think I've ever bought alkaline / carbon-zinc primary batteries
online. I've checked prices from online-only sellers, but in the small
quantities of AAA, AA, C, D that I use, it's usually just about the same
as going to the local discount store. For coin or button batteries, the
local prices seem to be vastly inflated vs. online, but then the minimum
shipping charge cuts in. If I happened to be ordering something else
from Digi-Key or Mouser, then it might pay to order a coin cell from
them.
For NiCd power tool batteries, I had my existing packs rebuilt by a
local Batteries Plus store. I don't know what kind of cells they used,
but they work a lot better than the worn-out original ones, and the
rebuild price of about $35 was better than the new-pack price of $50+.
The last time I was involved with buying lead-acid traction batteries
several years ago, I think the place where I worked got them directly
from the manufacturer (Enersys, nee Hawker, nee Gates). That seemed to
work OK.
Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration
from any companies mentioned.
Matt Roberds