Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 8:31:56 PM UTC+5:30, Asimov wrote:
"u1061771156" wrote to "All" (20 Jan 03 19:46:00)
--- on the topic of "Lithium Ion battery renovation"

There may be a way but it's an experiment if you care to try...
Instead of charging with a constant voltage, try brute force charging at
a constant rated 3.5A current until the terminal voltage gets above the
normal maximum. Keep a wary eye on the battery's temperature. Drain the
battery and then recharge it with the usual voltage charging method and
see if it accepts a higher current then. You might try to repeat
constant current charging one or two times before giving up.


u1> I have a NI2020 lithium battery back that I was given by a friend as
u1> not working properly. I believe he left it "on the shelf" for a long
u1> time (2 years?) and now can't get much charge into it. Make is
u1> "energizer" and should be around 4Ah capacity.

u1> I found the datasheet on the web. It says charge at 12.3V (current
u1> limited to 3.5A). If I try to charge (from discharged) it will only
u1> accept about 1A at this voltage initially, and within an hour it drops
u1> to around 100mA or less.

u1> If I then discharge (at 2A) it only lasts 110 minutes or so before the
u1> terminal voltage drops to about 9.8V and the internal FETs switch off
u1> to stop further discharge.

u1> Is this a typical failure mode of these LiIon packs? The spec sheet
u1> does imply one should charge once a year or so so stop the cells
u1> discharging completely. Cycling this a few times has not made it any
u1> better.
u1> Is there any "black art" to recovering a LiIon pack, or is it
u1> terminal?
u1> Regards,
u1> Mike.

hi ,
Do you know, what is the relation between charging time, voltage , capacity, charging current in lithium ion rechargeable battery.
suppose how much time it will take 6000mah battery charging with 100mA with 4.2 volts.
 
On Wednesday, January 22, 2003 11:31:21 AM UTC+5:30, Asimov wrote:
"Thomas" wrote to "All" (21 Jan 03 20:09:04)
--- on the topic of "Re: Lithium Ion battery renovation"

Th> From: Thomas <zak@spam.invalid

Th> Asimov wrote:
There may be a way but it's an experiment if you care to try...
Instead of charging with a constant voltage, try brute force charging at
a constant rated 3.5A current

Th> DON'T DO THIS!

Th> Overcharging lithium batteries damages them in the good case. In the
Th> bad case they catch fire in a very spectacular way, rocket motor like.

Th> There have been many problems with early lithium batteries ctahcing
Th> fire. And that was with manufacturers not doing anything very stupid,
Th> but something just a little bit wrong.


Thanks for the warning. I've never had any success reviving dead Li
batteries so the advice to be very careful is gladly accepted.

hi,
Do you know, what is the relation between charging time, voltage , capacity, charging current in lithium ion rechargeable battery.
suppose how much time it will take 6000mah battery charging with 100mA with 4.2 volts.
 
On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 1:49:18 AM UTC+5:30, Thomas wrote:
u1061771156 wrote:

(2 years?) and now can't get much charge into it. Make is "energizer"
and should be around 4Ah capacity.

If I then discharge (at 2A) it only lasts 110 minutes or so before the
terminal voltage drops to about 9.8V and the internal FETs switch off
to stop further discharge.

OK - so it was 4 Ah, and now is 2 x 110 / 60 = 3.67 Ah.

That doesn't sound too broken to me. Just a bit worn out - probably form being
discharged, if I followed Evgenij so far.


Thomas

hi,
Do you know ,
what is the relation between charging time, voltage , capacity, charging current in lithium ion rechargeable battery.
suppose how much time it will take 6000mah battery charging with 100mA with 4.2 volts.
 
On Sunday, April 30, 2000 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, Pickles wrote:
Hello Group,

I just picked up a Advent Videobeam 1000A that appears to have been
well used. I opened the cover and powered it up and the 3 tubes all
fired up. I am utterly comitted and determined to bringing this
machine fully up to its new condition. I would appreciate any info
or service manuals that would guide me in doing this. Also, I would
like hear from anyone who can supply parts for this beast. Please
contact me at "kennyb@kaldalons.com" with any info, suggestions
or anything else you can think of about the Videobeam 1000A.

Cheers,
me

PS: Surprisingly, an Advent Videobeam 1000A barely fits into the back
seat of a Volvo 740T.

This is to post for those looking for parts to these Advent 1000A units. I have at least one chassis in fair condition, needs some cleaning and some TLC, and I may have a second one as well with the big boxy remote. I also have unused RGB tubes, at least one full set. Several new boards and circuitry and a full list of parts in stock. My father had an advent and used to repair it himself. He stocked parts for it like he did it for a living and could probably rebuild the thing entirely a few times over. If you're interested in anything listed above or something specific, let me know. My quick e-mail inbox is Ryan429@juno.com. We can discuss from there on.
 
Attn: Neid Koffe,

Did you ever fix the fault on your sunbeam aroma 12 coffee machine?

I have the exact same issue. These aren't worth taking to a repair shop but if it was something simple i'll sort it myself...

Really appreciate an answer either way ;-)

Cheers

peter

On Friday, March 25, 2011 11:37:43 PM UTC+13, Neid Koffe wrote:
Att: Frank

Got given this coffee machine.
Aroma Coffee(tm) 12 Digital (PC4700)

Fault:

When powering it on (digital panel) it turns straight off and the
element never gets to heats up.

This digital panel I assume control the usage etc. But also
controls the On/Off. The buttons themselves seem functional.
I can hear a relay trip once when it turns it self off again.

I've pulled to bits to check for obvious problems.
I'm thinking I'm looking at a round Thermistor (see below links)
that attaches directly to the element and it appears wired to the
mains voltage (230-240v here) on the power/relay board on the
right
side of the photo.

That's a thermal switch, not a thermistor. It should be closed.
- Franc Zabkar

Thanks for the reply...

So that is normally closed at all times unless it hits the temp
threshold? Even in a no power state?

How would it be acting if faulty?
 
On Tue, 13 May 2014 16:16:01 -0700 (PDT), pjrcrawford@gmail.com wrote:
Really appreciate an answer either way ;-)

From a posting over three years ago? Not likely either way.
 
This link is a photo of a test page printed by a Canon 490 after a pretty hefty paper jam. Horizontal printing is fine. The vertical lines are straight when printing in one direction, left or right. But the left pass lines don't line up with the right pass.

My first thought was that there was some play in the connection of the print head to whatever moves it back and forth. But everything seem tight. I went through the auto-alignment software steps, not expecting it to help, and I was right - no improvement.

I replaced the black ink cartridge. Had been refilling. Now, not only is the alignment problem still there, it's printing really poorly. Fuzzy and skipping lines. Just about ready to trash this one and replace.

Any ideas how this might be corrected?

Here the top part of a test sheet:
http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/y496/sammybob1/CANON490_zps18966e1b.jpg

Thanks in advance!

Bob
 
On Wed, 14 May 2014 21:37:26 -0800, "Guv Bob"
<guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote:

This link is a photo of a test page printed by a Canon 490
after a pretty hefty paper jam. Horizontal printing is
fine.

Did you do the print head alignment?
<http://kbsupport.cusa.canon.com/system/selfservice.controller?CONFIGURATION=1011&PARTITION_ID=1&secureFlag=false&TIMEZONE_OFFSET=&CMD=VIEW_ARTICLE&ARTICLE_ID=29969>

If, as you say, that failed, try adjusting it manually. See the blue
colored "notes" in the above URL for the well hidden manual print head
adjustment instructions.

Check that the tension on the rubber band that moves the print head it
reasonably tight. It doesn't take much backlash in the head to cause
problems.

Drip a few drops of oil on the head traveler mechanism to reduce
friction. Move the head back and forth (with the power off) to see if
there's any excessive friction.

There is also a cover on the head assembly over the scanner optics.
Power off, look inside for debris or dust. Clean.

Note: I recycled a Canon MP495 (similar to an MP490) last month
because it was a perpetual print quality nightmare. I could make it
work, but it would screwup again after several hours of operation.
Something was loose, but I never was able to find it.

Also, try searching here:
<http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/forums/inkjet>
for MP490 and see if someone else has had a similar problem.

I hate (most) inkjet printers. Good luck.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message news:t8can91su76q34cfpo18h0vnj4e7482lkc@4ax.com...
On Wed, 14 May 2014 21:37:26 -0800, "Guv Bob"
guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote:

This link is a photo of a test page printed by a Canon 490
after a pretty hefty paper jam. Horizontal printing is
fine.

Did you do the print head alignment?
http://kbsupport.cusa.canon.com/system/selfservice.controller?CONFIGURATION=1011&PARTITION_ID=1&secureFlag=false&TIMEZONE_OFFSET=&CMD=VIEW_ARTICLE&ARTICLE_ID=29969

If, as you say, that failed, try adjusting it manually. See the blue
colored "notes" in the above URL for the well hidden manual print head
adjustment instructions.

Check that the tension on the rubber band that moves the print head it
reasonably tight. It doesn't take much backlash in the head to cause
problems.

Drip a few drops of oil on the head traveler mechanism to reduce
friction. Move the head back and forth (with the power off) to see if
there's any excessive friction.

There is also a cover on the head assembly over the scanner optics.
Power off, look inside for debris or dust. Clean.

Note: I recycled a Canon MP495 (similar to an MP490) last month
because it was a perpetual print quality nightmare. I could make it
work, but it would screwup again after several hours of operation.
Something was loose, but I never was able to find it.

Also, try searching here:
http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/forums/inkjet
for MP490 and see if someone else has had a similar problem.

I hate (most) inkjet printers. Good luck.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Thanks, Jeff. I swapped to a laser printer for the time being. Will look at the 490 this weekend. You might know this also... I replaced a MP190 with the 490. 190 has been excellent. But it showed ink absorber full error. I tried resetting using various pushbutton, plug in/out procedures but still got the error.

I would like to replace or clean the absorber. Lots of opinions and pointers, but not what I need. I don't even know where the absorber is or whether to access it from top, side or bottom. I don't mind even cutting open a panel to get to it if necessary, but I don't want to open the top and then find out its accessible only from the bottom.

Long story I know. A decent exploded diagram or even a photo with someone pointing to the absorber would be great.
 
On Wed, 21 May 2014 11:59:08 -0800, "Guv Bob"
<guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote:

You might know this also... I replaced a MP190 with the 490.
190 has been excellent. But it showed ink absorber full error.
I tried resetting using various pushbutton, plug in/out procedures
but still got the error.

The typical reset ceremony will not work unless you also clean the
absorber. I replace it with a new felt pad, which I cut to size with
an Exacto knife.
<http://mariostroger.blogspot.com/2012/04/canon-mp1908-error-e27-ink-absorber-is.html>

You can also try the $10 software reset:
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/161204178280>
I have no clue if it actually works.

I would like to replace or clean the absorber. Lots of opinions
and pointers, but not what I need. I don't even know where the absorber
is or whether to access it from top, side or bottom.

This might help:
<http://smallbusiness.chron.com/clean-canon-ink-absorber-57609.html>
I usually have to tear apart the printer in order to gain access to
the absorber sponge. Sometimes, I get luck and get access through the
bottom of the printer. I don't recall how to do an MP190. Once the
mechanism is exposed, I wash it with a mix of warm water, a little
ammonia cleaner, and maybe a little kerosene (to slow down the drying
of the ink). I apply it initially with an old paint brush, and wipe
with a rag or towel paper. Try not to get it on the rubber parts or
they might dry out and later crumble.

For the pad, it's just warm water and some dishwashing soap in a bowl.
I'm undecided if squeezing the absorber does any damage.

I dry the pads in a toaster oven (also used for reflowing badly
soldered BGA chips). Random temperature and times so far. Just make
sure they're dry before reinserting.

I don't mind even cutting open a panel to get to it if necessary,
but I don't want to open the top and then find out its accessible
only from the bottom.

That has happened to me once on an Epson inkjet. Now you know why I
detest inkjet printers.

A decent exploded diagram or even a photo with someone pointing
to the absorber would be great.

You should know better. Inkjet printers are NOT made to be repaired.
Supplying repair information and parts is techno heresy and in direct
opposition to the manufacturers bottom line. You are expected to
recycle the printer, and buy a new one if the absorber fills (usually
because of leaky cartridges).

Anyway, this should work:
<http://www.fixya.com/support/t9171473-ink_absorber_full_canon_mp190>
I think it's fairly simple on the MP190 (and a major project on
others).


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
Ditto what Jeff posted.
I've usually had to take the printer entirely apart to get the inkpad
out---which is indeed at the bottom, underneath the rear paper tray in
the innards of the device.
I've never created a new pad, just washed the old one and let it dry.
--
NNTP on Emacs 24.3 from Windows 7
 
Got an M7850 - Do you have scanned the manual?
my e mail is jatalam@gmail.com

I think is dirty heads.
 
On 5/27/2014 11:54 AM, jatalam@gmail.com wrote:
Got an M7850 - Do you have scanned the manual?
my e mail is jatalam@gmail.com

I think is dirty heads.
You don't need a service manual to clean the video heads.
Is the symptom a snowy picture with some of the picture showing
in the snow?

Mikek
 
On Tue, 27 May 2014, jatalam@gmail.com wrote:

Got an M7850 - Do you have scanned the manual?
my e mail is jatalam@gmail.com

I think is dirty heads.

This thread is from 2002, and isn't about your model.

So why in the world are you replying to a 12 year old message?

If you have something to say, start a proper thread.

Michael
 
Well at least this thread reminded me that UI have forgotten what WBF means. the W stands for White something, and it was part of the HW system to enhance VHS recording to make it closer to as good as beta.
 
"Gernot Hassenpflug" <gernot@coda.ocn.ne.jp> wrote in message news:yolr43li8vf.fsf@asahi-net.or.jp...
Ditto what Jeff posted.
I've usually had to take the printer entirely apart to get the inkpad
out---which is indeed at the bottom, underneath the rear paper tray in
the innards of the device.
I've never created a new pad, just washed the old one and let it dry.
--
NNTP on Emacs 24.3 from Windows 7

Thanks, guys. I'll take a look at it this weekend if I can hide from the lovely wife long enough... I put the MP490 to the side for now and am using a Samslung laser. It's fine but it's just a printer - not a copier.

Anyone need slightly used printer collection?
 
Many printers used to guess the absorver status incrementing an internal counter each cleaning cycle. Do these Canon series have an actual sensor in the pad?
 

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