Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

On Apr 19, 10:02 am, "Paul D Smith" <paul_d_sm...@hotmail.com> wrote:
"News" <Gra...@nospam.demon.co.uk> wrote in message

news:hY+GiwHLd6jPFwax@nospam.demon.co.uk...

In message <jmnl7g01...@news6.newsguy.com>, Winston
Wins...@Bigbrother.net> writes

This looks interesting from
http://www.techsupportforum.com/forums/f108/toshiba-nb200-wont-boot-4923
91.html:

Thanks for that.  Yes, I followed that advice, upgraded the BIOS and it
has behaved perfectly since then.

Both the solutions (freeze or leave for long time) sound like ways of
clearing the BIOS (freezing car radios used to be a way to clear their
security codes!).

If there is an accessible battery (probably not) then pull it and leave for
a week might do the same job.  Or there may even be a way to force clearing
the BIOS on boot.

Paul DS
Talking bollocks.

The BIOS is in Flash memory. You don't want to clear that.

MBQ
 
On 19/04/2012 11:57, Man at B&Q wrote:
On Apr 19, 10:02 am, "Paul D Smith"<paul_d_sm...@hotmail.com> wrote:
"News"<Gra...@nospam.demon.co.uk> wrote in message

news:hY+GiwHLd6jPFwax@nospam.demon.co.uk...

In message<jmnl7g01...@news6.newsguy.com>, Winston
Wins...@Bigbrother.net> writes

This looks interesting from
http://www.techsupportforum.com/forums/f108/toshiba-nb200-wont-boot-4923
91.html:

Thanks for that. Yes, I followed that advice, upgraded the BIOS and it
has behaved perfectly since then.

Both the solutions (freeze or leave for long time) sound like ways of
clearing the BIOS (freezing car radios used to be a way to clear their
security codes!).

If there is an accessible battery (probably not) then pull it and leave for
a week might do the same job. Or there may even be a way to force clearing
the BIOS on boot.

Paul DS

Talking bollocks.
I don't think he is actually.

The BIOS is in Flash memory. You don't want to clear that.
I think you will find he is referring to the BIOS Data Area data which
are held in a small amount of storage maintained in battery backed CMOS
RAM.

It has nothing to do with the Flash memory used to hold the BIOS program
code itself.

The BIOS Data area is typically copied to main ram (at 0040:0000h)
during system boot. It contains (as well as other stuff) the equipment
list, and configuration of the basic hardware like what drives are
attached, the base address of serial ports etc.



--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/
 
On Apr 19, 3:30 pm, John Rumm <see.my.signat...@nowhere.null> wrote:
On 19/04/2012 11:57, Man at B&Q wrote:









On Apr 19, 10:02 am, "Paul D Smith"<paul_d_sm...@hotmail.com>  wrote:
"News"<Gra...@nospam.demon.co.uk>  wrote in message

news:hY+GiwHLd6jPFwax@nospam.demon.co.uk...

In message<jmnl7g01...@news6.newsguy.com>, Winston
Wins...@Bigbrother.net>  writes

This looks interesting from
http://www.techsupportforum.com/forums/f108/toshiba-nb200-wont-boot-4923
91.html:

Thanks for that.  Yes, I followed that advice, upgraded the BIOS and it
has behaved perfectly since then.

Both the solutions (freeze or leave for long time) sound like ways of
clearing the BIOS (freezing car radios used to be a way to clear their
security codes!).

If there is an accessible battery (probably not) then pull it and leave for
a week might do the same job.  Or there may even be a way to force clearing
the BIOS on boot.

Paul DS

Talking bollocks.

I don't think he is actually.

The BIOS is in Flash memory. You don't want to clear that.

I think you will find he is referring to the BIOS Data Area
I know that. He should refer to things properly.

data which
are held in a small amount of storage maintained in battery backed CMOS
RAM.

It has nothing to do with the Flash memory used to hold the BIOS program
code itself.
The code in the Flash *is* "the BIOS". When you update "the BIOS" you
are updating the code in the Flash, not the contents of the "CMOS" as
it is sometimes referred to.

MBQ
 
On 19/04/2012 16:04, Man at B&Q wrote:
On Apr 19, 3:30 pm, John Rumm<see.my.signat...@nowhere.null> wrote:
On 19/04/2012 11:57, Man at B&Q wrote:









On Apr 19, 10:02 am, "Paul D Smith"<paul_d_sm...@hotmail.com> wrote:
"News"<Gra...@nospam.demon.co.uk> wrote in message

news:hY+GiwHLd6jPFwax@nospam.demon.co.uk...

In message<jmnl7g01...@news6.newsguy.com>, Winston
Wins...@Bigbrother.net> writes

This looks interesting from
http://www.techsupportforum.com/forums/f108/toshiba-nb200-wont-boot-4923
91.html:

Thanks for that. Yes, I followed that advice, upgraded the BIOS and it
has behaved perfectly since then.

Both the solutions (freeze or leave for long time) sound like ways of
clearing the BIOS (freezing car radios used to be a way to clear their
security codes!).

If there is an accessible battery (probably not) then pull it and leave for
a week might do the same job. Or there may even be a way to force clearing
the BIOS on boot.

Paul DS

Talking bollocks.

I don't think he is actually.

The BIOS is in Flash memory. You don't want to clear that.

I think you will find he is referring to the BIOS Data Area

I know that. He should refer to things properly.

data which
are held in a small amount of storage maintained in battery backed CMOS
RAM.

It has nothing to do with the Flash memory used to hold the BIOS program
code itself.

The code in the Flash *is* "the BIOS". When you update "the BIOS" you
are updating the code in the Flash, not the contents of the "CMOS" as
it is sometimes referred to.
Yes I realise all that. However I got the impression (admittedly reading
a little between the lines) that Paul was really referring to the CMOS
battery backed storage rather than the flash, since corrupt CMOS data
can bork a machine on startup... however I will let him confirm one way
or another.



--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/
 
Paul D Smith wrote:
"News" <Graeme@nospam.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:hY+GiwHLd6jPFwax@nospam.demon.co.uk...
In message <jmnl7g0131a@news6.newsguy.com>, Winston
Winston@Bigbrother.net> writes

This looks interesting from
http://www.techsupportforum.com/forums/f108/toshiba-nb200-wont-boot-4923
91.html:

Thanks for that. Yes, I followed that advice, upgraded the BIOS and it
has behaved perfectly since then.

Both the solutions (freeze or leave for long time) sound like ways of
clearing the BIOS (freezing car radios used to be a way to clear their
security codes!).

Then they would be cleared every time they sat outside for fifteen
minutes in some places. -40F was common when I lived in Alaska.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
 
"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

Yes I realise all that. However I got the impression (admittedly reading
a little between the lines) that Paul was really referring to the CMOS
battery backed storage rather than the flash, since corrupt CMOS data
can bork a machine on startup... however I will let him confirm one way
or another.

That would make a lot of sense. The CMOS RAM needs power to retain its
contents and it is likely kept going by a lithium battery. Lithium batteries
put out less power when cold, and if allowed to cool in a freezer will
stop completely causing the memory to reinitalize when restarted.

It makes a lot more sense to remove the lithium cell and short out
the battery holder.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
 
John Rumm wrote:

Yes I realise all that. However I got the impression (admittedly reading
a little between the lines) that Paul was really referring to the CMOS
battery backed storage rather than the flash, since corrupt CMOS data
can bork a machine on startup... however I will let him confirm one way
or another.
That would make a lot of sense. The CMOS RAM needs power to retain its
contents and it is likely kept going by a lithium battery. Lithium batteries
put out less power when cold, and if allowed to cool in a freezer will
stop completely causing the memory to reinitalize when restarted.

Geoff.



--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM/KBUH7245/KBUW5379
In 1969 the US could put a man on the moon, now teenagers just howl at it. :-(
 
On 19/04/2012 19:14, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" wrote:

John Rumm wrote:

Yes I realise all that. However I got the impression (admittedly reading
a little between the lines) that Paul was really referring to the CMOS
battery backed storage rather than the flash, since corrupt CMOS data
can bork a machine on startup... however I will let him confirm one way
or another.

That would make a lot of sense. The CMOS RAM needs power to retain its
contents and it is likely kept going by a lithium battery. Lithium batteries
put out less power when cold, and if allowed to cool in a freezer will
stop completely causing the memory to reinitalize when restarted.


It makes a lot more sense to remove the lithium cell and short out
the battery holder.
Many motherboards have a jumper for doing just this (easier than
removing the cell from its holder). Laptops not always as easy.


--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/
 
["Followup-To:" header set to sci.electronics.repair.]
Michael A. Terrell wrote:

It makes a lot more sense to remove the lithium cell and short out
the battery holder.
There is a difference between an explanation making sense, and doing it.
:)

Besides, that may not be possible, it may be an integrated CMOS chip and
battery.

Geoff.


--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM/KBUH7245/KBUW5379
In 1969 the US could put a man on the moon, now teenagers just howl at it. :-(
 
"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" wrote:
["Followup-To:" header set to sci.electronics.repair.]
Michael A. Terrell wrote:

It makes a lot more sense to remove the lithium cell and short out
the battery holder.

There is a difference between an explanation making sense, and doing it.
:)

Besides, that may not be possible, it may be an integrated CMOS chip and
battery.

I haven't seen them since the early Pentium days. (Late '90s) In
fact, I have pulled the cover off some of those old Dallas RTC modules
to remove the dead cell and installed an external socket for the new
cell. It was mounted on a small piece of perf board and screwed to one
of the blank filler plates. That was over 10 years ago and I don't
remember seeing any, since then.

I used CapStore RAM to replace those annoying battery backed 2k*8
modules. It had flash RAM, Static RAM and a supercap to allow it to
write the contents of the static RAM to the Flash RAM when power was
lost. On powerup, it wrote the contents back to the Static RAM. That
was for a communications system we built for the space station. Those
lithium cells were banned from all aerospace equipment built for NASA.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
 
John Rumm wrote:
On 19/04/2012 19:14, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" wrote:

John Rumm wrote:

Yes I realise all that. However I got the impression (admittedly reading
a little between the lines) that Paul was really referring to the CMOS
battery backed storage rather than the flash, since corrupt CMOS data
can bork a machine on startup... however I will let him confirm one way
or another.

That would make a lot of sense. The CMOS RAM needs power to retain its
contents and it is likely kept going by a lithium battery. Lithium batteries
put out less power when cold, and if allowed to cool in a freezer will
stop completely causing the memory to reinitalize when restarted.


It makes a lot more sense to remove the lithium cell and short out
the battery holder.

Many motherboards have a jumper for doing just this (easier than
removing the cell from its holder). Laptops not always as easy.

I've repaired hundereds of desktop computers. :)

I have a fairly new Dell laptop with a bad cell. You have to take
the damn thing into over 20 pieces to get to it, when it would have been
simple to put it under one of the covers on the bottom, or under the
battery pack.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
 
On 20/04/2012 14:44, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

On 19/04/2012 19:14, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" wrote:

John Rumm wrote:

Yes I realise all that. However I got the impression (admittedly reading
a little between the lines) that Paul was really referring to the CMOS
battery backed storage rather than the flash, since corrupt CMOS data
can bork a machine on startup... however I will let him confirm one way
or another.

That would make a lot of sense. The CMOS RAM needs power to retain its
contents and it is likely kept going by a lithium battery. Lithium batteries
put out less power when cold, and if allowed to cool in a freezer will
stop completely causing the memory to reinitalize when restarted.


It makes a lot more sense to remove the lithium cell and short out
the battery holder.

Many motherboards have a jumper for doing just this (easier than
removing the cell from its holder). Laptops not always as easy.


I've repaired hundereds of desktop computers. :)

I have a fairly new Dell laptop with a bad cell. You have to take
the damn thing into over 20 pieces to get to it, when it would have been
simple to put it under one of the covers on the bottom, or under the
battery pack.
There seems to be a *huge* variety of the serviceability of laptops
these days... I had a couple recently where the CPU cooler was choked
with dust and the fan running poorly. On one (IIRC a stinkpad) you had
the have the whole thing to bits in order to get at the right side of
the motherboard. On the other (a dell I think) you could take a flap off
the bottom, release 4 screws and the whole cooler assembly and heatpipes
etc just lifted clear.


--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/
 
"gowthaman ramaraj" <spider.degree@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:493a9aa0-c2f8-4558-bf02-ea6ce1816439@s10g2000pbc.googlegroups.com...
http://yellow937.webs.com/

Can you?
 
On 4/20/2012 2:59 PM, Gareth Magennis wrote:
"gowthaman ramaraj" <spider.degree@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:493a9aa0-c2f8-4558-bf02-ea6ce1816439@s10g2000pbc.googlegroups.com...
http://yellow937.webs.com/



Can you?
I really tried, but I don't see anything. Maybe I forgot my glasses! -Š^ŠŹ
 
John Rumm wrote:
On 20/04/2012 14:44, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

John Rumm wrote:

On 19/04/2012 19:14, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" wrote:

John Rumm wrote:

Yes I realise all that. However I got the impression (admittedly reading
a little between the lines) that Paul was really referring to the CMOS
battery backed storage rather than the flash, since corrupt CMOS data
can bork a machine on startup... however I will let him confirm one way
or another.

That would make a lot of sense. The CMOS RAM needs power to retain its
contents and it is likely kept going by a lithium battery. Lithium batteries
put out less power when cold, and if allowed to cool in a freezer will
stop completely causing the memory to reinitalize when restarted.


It makes a lot more sense to remove the lithium cell and short out
the battery holder.

Many motherboards have a jumper for doing just this (easier than
removing the cell from its holder). Laptops not always as easy.


I've repaired hundereds of desktop computers. :)

I have a fairly new Dell laptop with a bad cell. You have to take
the damn thing into over 20 pieces to get to it, when it would have been
simple to put it under one of the covers on the bottom, or under the
battery pack.

There seems to be a *huge* variety of the serviceability of laptops
these days... I had a couple recently where the CPU cooler was choked
with dust and the fan running poorly. On one (IIRC a stinkpad) you had
the have the whole thing to bits in order to get at the right side of
the motherboard. On the other (a dell I think) you could take a flap off
the bottom, release 4 screws and the whole cooler assembly and heatpipes
etc just lifted clear.

It's annoying, after manufacturing commercial equipment that was
designed to be serviced. A philips screwdriver was all you needed to
open the case and remove any module to repair locally or return to the
factory. I talked a Ph.D. in Antarctica through a repair, over the
internet in 2000. It was a telemetry receiver needed to continue their
experiments. They damaged it in shipment, and it would have taken a
year to return it to the factory for us to repair it, then send it back
on their next supply ship.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
 
On Thu, 03 May 2012 15:09:03 -0700, Jim Thompson
<To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

OT: Universal Remotes & Projection TV's...

Our 18 year-old rear projection TV (55" Letter-box) has finally failed... or
not quite... the blue sweep only, dips dramatically in the upper middle of the
screen making for some garish looking pictures... particularly on old B&W
Hitchcock re-runs (playing here w/o commercials ;-)

So I bought a 55" LCD (LED-backlit) at 1/4 the price of the original.

So the first perennial question: Is there a truly universal remote available
that actually works easily, in a darkened room?

Second question: The new set weighs 40#, the old one is so heavy I can barely
lift one end. I had visions of throwing it on my pick-up truck and taking it
to this weekend's hazardous waste at the local park. But I'd need a couple of
moving-company-strength assistants.

Anyone here in Arizona want it?

If not I'll bust it up and dispose in liftable chunks.

...Jim Thompson
See it on CraigsList...

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/ele/2994884637.html

...Jim Thompson
--

| James E.Thompson, CTO | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona 85048 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
 
"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote in message news:_8ednfsicqU02RvSnZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
I know this sounds stupid........ but I can't find this thing to save my life.

When I turn the ignition 'on' there is clearly a solenoid chattering in the middle of the engine, between the engine and firewall. Best I can tell it's coming from about 6-12 inches down from the top of the engine. Normally I can use a tube to find these things but this time can't locate the sucker.

A problem I have this time is I'm just learning this car and can't find any diagrams showing solenoids. Haynes and Chiltons aren't much help this time.

I know it's not coming from near the starter solenoid. Anyone know what other solenoids would be in that area?

1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse.

Thanks in advance.

Bob

==
Found it - the idle speed stepper motor was chattering. Had to drill out 3 screws to get it apart. Cleaned it off and seems to work but not sure. The shop manual says to apply 6vdc to some of the connector pins and see if it if moves or vibrates. I can barely feel it move every time I hit a pin with 6v, but no vibration or continuous movement. Same when terminals swithed. Does this right? I'm guessing that one 6v pulse from the control unit causes one step in the motor - can't find that out anywhere and the Mitsubishi place here won't say anything except "bring it in and we'll test everything for $150".

It would also be nice to know how many steps there are in the motor. No info from anywhere I could find about this.
 
"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote:
"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote in message
news:_8ednfsicqU02RvSnZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
I know this sounds stupid........ but I can't find this thing to save my life.

When I turn the ignition 'on' there is clearly a solenoid chattering in
the middle of the engine, between the engine and firewall. Best I can
tell it's coming from about 6-12 inches down from the top of the engine.
Normally I can use a tube to find these things but this time can't locate the sucker.

A problem I have this time is I'm just learning this car and can't find
any diagrams showing solenoids. Haynes and Chiltons aren't much help this time.

I know it's not coming from near the starter solenoid. Anyone know what
other solenoids would be in that area?

1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse.

Thanks in advance.

Bob

==
Found it - the idle speed stepper motor was chattering. Had to drill
out 3 screws to get it apart. Cleaned it off and seems to work but not
sure. The shop manual says to apply 6vdc to some of the connector pins
and see if it if moves or vibrates. I can barely feel it move every time
I hit a pin with 6v, but no vibration or continuous movement. Same when
terminals swithed. Does this right? I'm guessing that one 6v pulse from
the control unit causes one step in the motor - can't find that out
anywhere and the Mitsubishi place here won't say anything except "bring
it in and we'll test everything for $150".

It would also be nice to know how many steps there are in the motor. No
info from anywhere I could find about this.
I checked one on truck by operating off engine still connected. Just see if
it has resistance on all leads, assuming the same ohms. Lubricate.

Greg
 
"gregz" <zekor@comcast.net> wrote in message news:1064846718358309953.000333zekor-comcast.net@news.eternal-september.org...
"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote:
"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote in message
news:_8ednfsicqU02RvSnZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
I know this sounds stupid........ but I can't find this thing to save my life.

When I turn the ignition 'on' there is clearly a solenoid chattering in
the middle of the engine, between the engine and firewall. Best I can
tell it's coming from about 6-12 inches down from the top of the engine.
Normally I can use a tube to find these things but this time can't locate the sucker.

A problem I have this time is I'm just learning this car and can't find
any diagrams showing solenoids. Haynes and Chiltons aren't much help this time.

I know it's not coming from near the starter solenoid. Anyone know what
other solenoids would be in that area?

1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse.

Thanks in advance.

Bob

=> > Found it - the idle speed stepper motor was chattering. Had to drill
out 3 screws to get it apart. Cleaned it off and seems to work but not
sure. The shop manual says to apply 6vdc to some of the connector pins
and see if it if moves or vibrates. I can barely feel it move every time
I hit a pin with 6v, but no vibration or continuous movement. Same when
terminals swithed. Does this right? I'm guessing that one 6v pulse from
the control unit causes one step in the motor - can't find that out
anywhere and the Mitsubishi place here won't say anything except "bring
it in and we'll test everything for $150".

It would also be nice to know how many steps there are in the motor. No
info from anywhere I could find about this.

I checked one on truck by operating off engine still connected. Just see if
it has resistance on all leads, assuming the same ohms. Lubricate.

Greg
Thanks Greg. Coil resistance is 30 ohms, which is within spec. I need a refresher on stepper motors..... Does it turn once step with each 6v pulse?
 
"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote:
"gregz" <zekor@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1064846718358309953.000333zekor-comcast.net@news.eternal-september.org...
"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote:
"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote in message
news:_8ednfsicqU02RvSnZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
I know this sounds stupid........ but I can't find this thing to save my life.

When I turn the ignition 'on' there is clearly a solenoid chattering in
the middle of the engine, between the engine and firewall. Best I can
tell it's coming from about 6-12 inches down from the top of the engine.
Normally I can use a tube to find these things but this time can't locate the sucker.

A problem I have this time is I'm just learning this car and can't find
any diagrams showing solenoids. Haynes and Chiltons aren't much help this time.

I know it's not coming from near the starter solenoid. Anyone know what
other solenoids would be in that area?

1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse.

Thanks in advance.

Bob

=> > Found it - the idle speed stepper motor was chattering. Had to drill
out 3 screws to get it apart. Cleaned it off and seems to work but not
sure. The shop manual says to apply 6vdc to some of the connector pins
and see if it if moves or vibrates. I can barely feel it move every time
I hit a pin with 6v, but no vibration or continuous movement. Same when
terminals swithed. Does this right? I'm guessing that one 6v pulse from
the control unit causes one step in the motor - can't find that out
anywhere and the Mitsubishi place here won't say anything except "bring
it in and we'll test everything for $150".

It would also be nice to know how many steps there are in the motor. No
info from anywhere I could find about this.

I checked one on truck by operating off engine still connected. Just see if
it has resistance on all leads, assuming the same ohms. Lubricate.

Greg

Thanks Greg. Coil resistance is 30 ohms, which is within spec. I need a
refresher on stepper motors..... Does it turn once step with each 6v pulse?
That's what happens, but voltage or ground occurs on all leads, not open.

Greg
 

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