Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 06:26:26 +1100, "Rod Speed" <rod_speed@yahoo.com>
wrote:

Some pathetic little wanker claiming to be
Tom MacIntyre <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> wrote in
message news:668rs0ds541c7tmicjmjcr69hmc88vu1st@4ax.com...
just the puerile silly shit thats all it can ever manage.
You misspelled that's...

Keep them coming...you're bound to get one right from top to bottom at
some point.

Tom
 
Some pathetic little wanker claiming to be
Tom MacIntyre <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> wrote in
message news:nekrs01bhrhho8it18e3m9nbss4d5ri80n@4ax.com...
just the puerile silly shit thats all it can ever manage.
 
Some pathetic little wanker claiming to be
Tom MacIntyre <tom_macintyre@hotmail.com> wrote in
message news:tqors0tn8tj5el8o1gk44p8pbo0u6cs35t@4ax.com...
just the puerile silly shit thats all it can ever manage.
 
On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 09:18:16 +1100, "Rod Speed" <rod_speed@yahoo.com>
wrote:

Some pathetic little wanker claiming to be
Tom MacIntyre <tom_macintyre@hotmail.com> wrote in
message news:tqors0tn8tj5el8o1gk44p8pbo0u6cs35t@4ax.com...
just the puerile silly shit thats all it can ever manage.
Rod must be sound asleep now in Aussie-land, and his bot is dealing
with replies.

Tom
 
Some pathetic little wanker claiming to be
Tom MacIntyre <tom_macintyre@hotmail.com> wrote in
message news:06qrs0hsorq4usf5h0dusjletjs6bbsctg@4ax.com...
just the puerile silly shit thats all it can ever manage.
 
I missed half the thread, and the intended subject, but the fact is it there is
no way in the world reversing the polarity of an AC plug can ever cause voltage
differential between two pieces of equipment. Nope, unless one or most likely
both are hot chassis and both have been tampered with in some way to compromise
the hot chassis safety features such as jumping caps etc. There's a minimum of
about 1meg resistance between hot chassis and any jacks, catv input ect. 1meg
sure isn't going to cause lights to dim or damage regardless of the polarity of
the cords.
 
"David Gersic" <dgersic_@_niu.edu> wrote in message
news:cqla4c$54r$1@usenet.cso.niu.edu...
| On Fri, 24 Dec 2004 13:36:29 -0500, Avi Frier <avi@noemail.com> wrote:
| > I want to rig a standard boom box as follows:
| >
| > - Concealed inside the boom-box, I need to have a microcassette player
that
| > is not noticeable when someone makes a cursory examination of the
boombox.

....

| It's uncertain whether this, and its potential intended use(s) are legal.
| I think I'll pass on the project.

Why doesn't he just go to the local Spy Shop?

N
 
"nilknarf" <oy@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1104042902.762491.198560@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
| I have a Pioneer VSX-3600 A/V receiver. It has two voltage selectors,

....

| I was thinking about randomly connecting wires to see what would
| happen, but am a bit hesitant to connect two hot wires together.
| Any ideas?

Yes. Don't randomly connect wires to see what will happen. You will need a
voltmeter (AC, multimeter is fine) and a transformer which puts out any
voltage between 6 and 30 volts approximately. Connect to secondary of this
to two of the wires that go to the transformer, then measure all transformer
voltages.

N
 
Here's what I currently have at the transformer

Brown: 67V
Red (leads to voltage selector switch): 67V
White(leads to voltage selector switch): 67V
Grey (leads to voltage selector switch): 123V
Yellow (leads to voltage selector switch): 123V
Black (leads to voltage selector switch): 123V
Purple: 123V
 
"nilknarf" <oy@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1104044114.286012.273640@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
| Here's what I currently have at the transformer
|
| Brown: 67V
| Red (leads to voltage selector switch): 67V
| White(leads to voltage selector switch): 67V
| Grey (leads to voltage selector switch): 123V
| Yellow (leads to voltage selector switch): 123V
| Black (leads to voltage selector switch): 123V
| Purple: 123V

If I had to guess I would imagine that the device is set for 220 VAC and is
being powered by 110 VAC. However I am concerned at the groups of identical
voltages. That is worrying.

N
 
Did anyone consider that sometimes electrical outlets are wired improperly. Yes
it happens!
 
Yes wiring defects and how to identify those defects were
one of the first posts in this thread. That post on 20 Dec
2004 started:
A few technically more informed posters have provided the
responsible posts. For example, a defective neutral wire
could cause excessive voltages on
PawlRevere2 wrote:
Did anyone consider that sometimes electrical outlets are wired
improperly. Yes it happens!
 
The pitch change means nothing but a slight loading of that circuit, or
loss of incoming sync. If the flyback was not working you would have no
raster, which you have because of snow, plus the high voltage is okay.
The presence of snow, and white noise in the audio indicates everything
after the tuner is working, that the IF circuits are working full gain
with no AGC from incoming signal. You are probably right in your first
thoughts, it is in the RF selector, the tuner. Check supply voltage to
it, also, if possible, remove it as a unit and carefully solder all board
connections with a quality iron... you might fix a bad solder joint, not
an unusual fix for that kind of problem. If possible, flex the board when
the problem is there and see if it produces any change. If so, go after
with the iron.
 
Could a surface mount solder joint be bad and if so, how do I resolder
them?
with a special iron tool? At what wattage?
Or could a circuit board trace be broken? And if so, how do I locate it
and
fix.
Yes, but it's more likely you missed a through-hole one. Try a can of freeze
spray with a straw attachment and see if you can narrow it down a bit, good
luck.
 
"G" <skiffingNOSPAM@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote in message
news:01c4eb4f$bb030ea0$45fca68e@ve1ajf...
Howdy all..........As it seems there's a lot of fine TV (and other!) techs
on here I thought I'd ask a question thats been bugging me for years. On
my 22+ year old RCA I've noticed for years a faint, approx 2-1/2" wide
horizontal "bar" in the background....just as if the picture was
at-a-different-depth while the bar slowly scrolls up the screen. Picture
isn't otherwise distorted and, most times is not very noticeable. I just

This sounds like a "hum bar" and is usually caused by dried up electrolytic
capacitors in the power supply.
 
rpbc wrote:
The pitch change means nothing but a slight loading of that circuit, or
loss of incoming sync. If the flyback was not working
snip

.... a possibility nobody has suggested.


--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.
 
Hello. A couple of months ago, I bought a Sony VCR.
The model is SLV-N750.
::
I bought the same model a couple of month ago with a similar problem.
Lots of "sparkling" interference on many channels, and squiggly lines
on and off. Returned the SLV-N750 for another unit, which also had
the "sparkling" snow-like interference (not as bad as the first one),
though it did not have the lines. The problem seems to improve a bit
once the VCR heats up.

Phoned Sony, and they said that they were not aware of any defects
with that particular model.
Seems like the previous Sony VCRs with the mechanical Ch3/4 switch
at the back were ok, but this one is changed via the menu, and maybe
that introduced some circuit defect.

I'll probably phone Sony again in the new year to see whether they
have come up with a fix in the meantime for that model.

Regards, Ron
 
Well, Rod, let me charge up one of the RCA's in my shop and you can remove the
anode lead bare handed while I watch from beyond arm's length away...
 
Ron wrote:

Returned the SLV-N750 for another unit, which also had
the "sparkling" snow-like interference (not as bad as the first one),
though it did not have the lines. The problem seems to improve a bit
once the VCR heats up
In one instance, I experienced the three-second static on the vcr tuner
when I first turned on the vcr.

However, in other instances, the problem occurs after the vcr has been on for
some time.


Phoned Sony, and they said that they were not aware of any defects
with that particular model.
Seems like the previous Sony VCRs with the mechanical Ch3/4 switch
at the back were ok, but this one is changed via the menu, and maybe
that introduced some circuit defect.

Some of my relatives have a sony vcr model slv-478.

This model has a mechanical ch. 3/4 switch on the back. As far as I know, this
model has never experienced the three-second static that I mention. However,
this vcr has never been connected to cable tv. Also, this vcr is very noisy.

These relatives have offered to let me have their vcr. However, I would have to
connect the vcr to the cable and run a test. Also, the noise of the vcr motor
can be very bad. The noise on the slv-n750 is very minimal.


I have to make a decision soon because the deadline for returning the slv-n750
is January 5, 2005.


Regards,

Alex K.
 
Jerry G. wrote:

I would suggest to try another piece of cable wire to see if that makes a
difference. To keep things simple, the RF signals are critical to handle,
and some devices may react a little different to the same signal for many
complicated reasons.

I only have one cable wire that comes into the home from the outside and that
goes into the vcr.

However, I have several wires that can be used to connect the vcr to the tv.
Currently, I am using the wire that came with the vcr. However, I could try
using a different wire I have, a wire I used to connect my old vcr to the tv.

By the way, what are RF signals?


If you want to see a descent Sony consumer VCR of good quality, then visit
this site. http://www.dvnation.com/10k.html

I checked this website and the others you mentioned. These websites showcase
vcrs that cost at least $1000. That is WAY more than what I wanted to spend.

I was thinking of spending no more than $150 to $250 for a pure vcr.

I can even get a dvd recorder/vcr combination for $400.


Regards,

Alex K.
 

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