Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[bz]

dannydee@nospammm.com wrote in news:vhmf34l6nrq8jj4akttnsrsm1g9kbq08u9@
4ax.com:

Believe it or not, about 30 years ago I worked in a car stereo
installation shop as well as a CB radio installer. Back then, we had
to manually connect each wire.

Been there, done that.

Times sure have changed, but I'm not sure if this is for the good.
I just bought a factory car radio from a garage sale. It has a built
in radio, tape player, amplifier, equalizer and clock. The sellers
said they bought the car new, and had a CD player installed a few
months later. I can see the radio is nearly new. I did not get the
year or model of chrysler from them.

Did you get the security code with the 'new radio', if not, you may have
problems using it.
I think there are places on line you can 'buy' the security code.

The problem is that these newer radios all have plugins, which are
part of the vehicle. It might be easy to plug them into the proper
vehicle, but not any other vehicle.

I saw on the web that there are adaptors, but how do I know what to
get? Here's what I got. It's from a newer chrysler or unknown model
and year. (Probably the 90's because after that they pretty much
abandoned tape pleyers in favor of CDs).
I want to put it in a 1990 Ford F150 pickup, because the current radio
and clock are dead. I'm not worried about physical mounting, I'll
make it fit. But how to wire it ?????

There are 2 plugs on the rear. Both have SIX pins. One plug is +12V,
GND, Clock, Lights, and ? something else. (It's out in the garage and
I dont feel like going out there). The other plug has all speaker
wires for FOUR speakers (I will only need Two speakers in a pickup).
Each plug pin is labelled.

Failure to properly terminate (with proper impedance) any output could blow
the output circuit.

I could probably solder a wire to each pin and hand wire it into the
truck, and that is likely what I may have to do. But my reason for
posting this is to find out if anyone has any suggestions of an easier
way to do this. I dont want to spend much for this project, but if
they make a direct plug from Chrysler to Ford, and it's not too
costly, that would make the job easier.

From what I can see, I need +12, GND, Clock, and Lights on plug #1
and Left Spkr. Right Spkr, and one speaker common (gnd).
That's 7 out of 12 wires.

Any suggestions, please ???

Good luck.



--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

dannydee@nospammm.com wrote in news:vhmf34l6nrq8jj4akttnsrsm1g9kbq08u9@
4ax.com:

Believe it or not, about 30 years ago I worked in a car stereo
installation shop as well as a CB radio installer. Back then, we had
to manually connect each wire.

Been there, done that.

Times sure have changed, but I'm not sure if this is for the good.
I just bought a factory car radio from a garage sale. It has a built
in radio, tape player, amplifier, equalizer and clock. The sellers
said they bought the car new, and had a CD player installed a few
months later. I can see the radio is nearly new. I did not get the
year or model of chrysler from them.

Did you get the security code with the 'new radio', if not, you may have
problems using it.
I think there are places on line you can 'buy' the security code.

The problem is that these newer radios all have plugins, which are
part of the vehicle. It might be easy to plug them into the proper
vehicle, but not any other vehicle.

I saw on the web that there are adaptors, but how do I know what to
get? Here's what I got. It's from a newer chrysler or unknown model
and year. (Probably the 90's because after that they pretty much
abandoned tape pleyers in favor of CDs).
I want to put it in a 1990 Ford F150 pickup, because the current radio
and clock are dead. I'm not worried about physical mounting, I'll
make it fit. But how to wire it ?????

There are 2 plugs on the rear. Both have SIX pins. One plug is +12V,
GND, Clock, Lights, and ? something else. (It's out in the garage and
I dont feel like going out there). The other plug has all speaker
wires for FOUR speakers (I will only need Two speakers in a pickup).
Each plug pin is labelled.

Failure to properly terminate (with proper impedance) any output could blow
the output circuit.

I could probably solder a wire to each pin and hand wire it into the
truck, and that is likely what I may have to do. But my reason for
posting this is to find out if anyone has any suggestions of an easier
way to do this. I dont want to spend much for this project, but if
they make a direct plug from Chrysler to Ford, and it's not too
costly, that would make the job easier.

From what I can see, I need +12, GND, Clock, and Lights on plug #1
and Left Spkr. Right Spkr, and one speaker common (gnd).
That's 7 out of 12 wires.

Any suggestions, please ???

Good luck.



--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in
news:4837C7E0.C274726D@earthlink.net:

James Sweet wrote:

I'm in the US and I despise spam, more than one email address I've had
has been rendered useless by the enormous volume of spam that makes it
in. I've had much better luck since I switched to gmail and set up a
number of disposable email forwards through trashmail.net, now whenever
I start getting spam from one, I can just drop it and switch to another.


I use 'Mailwasher' to bounce the garbage as undeliverable.

NO!!!!!
NEVER bounce mail unless you can _guarantee_ that it goes to the ACTUAL
sender!!!!

Bouncing mail is an abuse of the INTERNET and should NEVER be done.

What if [as is very common] the spammer is using a forged return / senders
address????
You end up clobbering some innocent soul's inbox.

Some spammers purposely use bouncers to 'forward' their spam.

Many viruses use bouncers or even faked bounces to try to get their virus
infected e-mail to someone that will open it.
http://www.spamcop.net/fom-serve/cache/329.html

If they
are expecting to do business with their email address, the more bounced
mail, the better to plug their inbox and prevent real customers from
contacting them.

..... snipped a case where bouncing WAS justified. Such cases are very rare.

Usually it is better to report spammers to their ISP and let the ISP deal
with them. If you do ANYTHING to let the spammer know that your e-mail
address works, you are just inviting them to sell your address to other
spammers.

By the way, spamcop can be used to report spam. Sometimes it helps.


--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+spr@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in
news:4837C7E0.C274726D@earthlink.net:

James Sweet wrote:

I'm in the US and I despise spam, more than one email address I've had
has been rendered useless by the enormous volume of spam that makes it
in. I've had much better luck since I switched to gmail and set up a
number of disposable email forwards through trashmail.net, now whenever
I start getting spam from one, I can just drop it and switch to another.


I use 'Mailwasher' to bounce the garbage as undeliverable.

NO!!!!!
NEVER bounce mail unless you can _guarantee_ that it goes to the ACTUAL
sender!!!!

Bouncing mail is an abuse of the INTERNET and should NEVER be done.

What if [as is very common] the spammer is using a forged return / senders
address????
You end up clobbering some innocent soul's inbox.

Some spammers purposely use bouncers to 'forward' their spam.

Many viruses use bouncers or even faked bounces to try to get their virus
infected e-mail to someone that will open it.
http://www.spamcop.net/fom-serve/cache/329.html

If they
are expecting to do business with their email address, the more bounced
mail, the better to plug their inbox and prevent real customers from
contacting them.

..... snipped a case where bouncing WAS justified. Such cases are very rare.

Usually it is better to report spammers to their ISP and let the ISP deal
with them. If you do ANYTHING to let the spammer know that your e-mail
address works, you are just inviting them to sell your address to other
spammers.

By the way, spamcop can be used to report spam. Sometimes it helps.


--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+spr@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[JANA]

If you get the installation kit, and can find out the equivalent wires
to cross reference them, the radio should normaly work.

Where you will have issues is if there is the requirement of
communications between the computer of the car and the computer of the
radio. This will apply where the radio is dedicated to the car model,
and is computer controlled by the car's computer system.

In most cases the radio should be a simple device. You will have the
antenna in, power in, panel lamp control, memory power, main power, and
then the speaker outputs.

In some car's the speakers are high impedance for their inputs and have
built in power amps, or there are external power amps for the speakers,
and the radio works more like a line level receiver. Most of the time,
the car radio systems are simple, and the radio speaker outputs are 4 or
8 ohms depending on the model, and it drives regular auto type speakers.

Just make sure you have compatibility, and you get the wiring correct
the first time. If not, most likely you will damage the radio, or
something else.

--

JANA
_____


<dannydee@nospammm.com> wrote in message
news:vhmf34l6nrq8jj4akttnsrsm1g9kbq08u9@4ax.com...
Believe it or not, about 30 years ago I worked in a car stereo
installation shop as well as a CB radio installer. Back then, we had
to manually connect each wire.

Times sure have changed, but I'm not sure if this is for the good.
I just bought a factory car radio from a garage sale. It has a built
in radio, tape player, amplifier, equalizer and clock. The sellers
said they bought the car new, and had a CD player installed a few
months later. I can see the radio is nearly new. I did not get the
year or model of chrysler from them.

The problem is that these newer radios all have plugins, which are
part of the vehicle. It might be easy to plug them into the proper
vehicle, but not any other vehicle.

I saw on the web that there are adaptors, but how do I know what to
get? Here's what I got. It's from a newer chrysler or unknown model
and year. (Probably the 90's because after that they pretty much
abandoned tape pleyers in favor of CDs).
I want to put it in a 1990 Ford F150 pickup, because the current radio
and clock are dead. I'm not worried about physical mounting, I'll
make it fit. But how to wire it ?????

There are 2 plugs on the rear. Both have SIX pins. One plug is +12V,
GND, Clock, Lights, and ? something else. (It's out in the garage and
I dont feel like going out there). The other plug has all speaker
wires for FOUR speakers (I will only need Two speakers in a pickup).
Each plug pin is labelled.

I could probably solder a wire to each pin and hand wire it into the
truck, and that is likely what I may have to do. But my reason for
posting this is to find out if anyone has any suggestions of an easier
way to do this. I dont want to spend much for this project, but if
they make a direct plug from Chrysler to Ford, and it's not too
costly, that would make the job easier.

From what I can see, I need +12, GND, Clock, and Lights on plug #1
and Left Spkr. Right Spkr, and one speaker common (gnd).
That's 7 out of 12 wires.

Any suggestions, please ???

Thanks

 

[JANA]

If you get the installation kit, and can find out the equivalent wires
to cross reference them, the radio should normaly work.

Where you will have issues is if there is the requirement of
communications between the computer of the car and the computer of the
radio. This will apply where the radio is dedicated to the car model,
and is computer controlled by the car's computer system.

In most cases the radio should be a simple device. You will have the
antenna in, power in, panel lamp control, memory power, main power, and
then the speaker outputs.

In some car's the speakers are high impedance for their inputs and have
built in power amps, or there are external power amps for the speakers,
and the radio works more like a line level receiver. Most of the time,
the car radio systems are simple, and the radio speaker outputs are 4 or
8 ohms depending on the model, and it drives regular auto type speakers.

Just make sure you have compatibility, and you get the wiring correct
the first time. If not, most likely you will damage the radio, or
something else.

--

JANA
_____


<dannydee@nospammm.com> wrote in message
news:vhmf34l6nrq8jj4akttnsrsm1g9kbq08u9@4ax.com...
Believe it or not, about 30 years ago I worked in a car stereo
installation shop as well as a CB radio installer. Back then, we had
to manually connect each wire.

Times sure have changed, but I'm not sure if this is for the good.
I just bought a factory car radio from a garage sale. It has a built
in radio, tape player, amplifier, equalizer and clock. The sellers
said they bought the car new, and had a CD player installed a few
months later. I can see the radio is nearly new. I did not get the
year or model of chrysler from them.

The problem is that these newer radios all have plugins, which are
part of the vehicle. It might be easy to plug them into the proper
vehicle, but not any other vehicle.

I saw on the web that there are adaptors, but how do I know what to
get? Here's what I got. It's from a newer chrysler or unknown model
and year. (Probably the 90's because after that they pretty much
abandoned tape pleyers in favor of CDs).
I want to put it in a 1990 Ford F150 pickup, because the current radio
and clock are dead. I'm not worried about physical mounting, I'll
make it fit. But how to wire it ?????

There are 2 plugs on the rear. Both have SIX pins. One plug is +12V,
GND, Clock, Lights, and ? something else. (It's out in the garage and
I dont feel like going out there). The other plug has all speaker
wires for FOUR speakers (I will only need Two speakers in a pickup).
Each plug pin is labelled.

I could probably solder a wire to each pin and hand wire it into the
truck, and that is likely what I may have to do. But my reason for
posting this is to find out if anyone has any suggestions of an easier
way to do this. I dont want to spend much for this project, but if
they make a direct plug from Chrysler to Ford, and it's not too
costly, that would make the job easier.

From what I can see, I need +12, GND, Clock, and Lights on plug #1
and Left Spkr. Right Spkr, and one speaker common (gnd).
That's 7 out of 12 wires.

Any suggestions, please ???

Thanks

 

[Deke]

<dannydee@nospammm.com> wrote in message
news:3u5g34pgvv2s9adjrn8nj0vggddvpnu0sk@4ax.com...

On Sat, 24 May 2008 10:27:28 +0000 (UTC), bz
bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote:

dannydee@nospammm.com wrote in news:vhmf34l6nrq8jj4akttnsrsm1g9kbq08u9@
4ax.com:

Believe it or not, about 30 years ago I worked in a car stereo
installation shop as well as a CB radio installer. Back then, we had
to manually connect each wire.

Been there, done that.


Times sure have changed, but I'm not sure if this is for the good.
I just bought a factory car radio from a garage sale. It has a built
in radio, tape player, amplifier, equalizer and clock. The sellers
said they bought the car new, and had a CD player installed a few
months later. I can see the radio is nearly new. I did not get the
year or model of chrysler from them.

Did you get the security code with the 'new radio', if not, you may have
problems using it.
I think there are places on line you can 'buy' the security code.


Security code ????? WTF are you talking about. This is a radio, not
a bank safe. Are you serious about this? I have not dealt with any
of the new stuff like this. Why is a security code needed and where
is it entered?

The problem is that these newer radios all have plugins, which are
part of the vehicle. It might be easy to plug them into the proper
vehicle, but not any other vehicle.

I saw on the web that there are adaptors, but how do I know what to
get? Here's what I got. It's from a newer chrysler or unknown model
and year. (Probably the 90's because after that they pretty much
abandoned tape pleyers in favor of CDs).
I want to put it in a 1990 Ford F150 pickup, because the current radio
and clock are dead. I'm not worried about physical mounting, I'll
make it fit. But how to wire it ?????

There are 2 plugs on the rear. Both have SIX pins. One plug is +12V,
GND, Clock, Lights, and ? something else. (It's out in the garage and
I dont feel like going out there). The other plug has all speaker
wires for FOUR speakers (I will only need Two speakers in a pickup).
Each plug pin is labelled.

I was wrong. Now that I dragged it into the house, there are SEVEN
(not six) pins on each plug. Doing a google of the model number
brought it up as a 2000 Dodge Dakota OEM radio.

Here is the labelling of the pins.

FEED CONNECTOR PLUG

BAT
ACC
ILL
PARK
RF-
LF-
MUTE

SPEAKER CONNECTOR

RR-
LR-
RF+
LF+
RR+
LR+
ANT

OK, battery, accessory power, the LF- and RF- must be speakers
But what the heck is "ILL"

Illumination. It hooks up to the lighting circuit, when energized, it
reduced the brightness of the display.

What is PARK for
and while I know what MUTE does on a tv or whatever, why would this
radio have a MUTE wire? Would there be a mute button somewhere else
in the car, or what?

On the steering wheel controls, along with volume controls and controls for
changing stations.

And why is there both a pin labelled ANT and a standard push in
antenna jack?

For power antenna.

This radio was used for more than one model, and not just pickup trucks..
Does it have the three band, or five band equalizer with joy stick? The
five band was used in the high end models, like the Imperial.

Failure to properly terminate (with proper impedance) any output could
blow
the output circuit.

I'll have to check on this. It would be pretty easy to do with some
resistors..


I could probably solder a wire to each pin and hand wire it into the
truck, and that is likely what I may have to do. But my reason for
posting this is to find out if anyone has any suggestions of an easier
way to do this. I dont want to spend much for this project, but if
they make a direct plug from Chrysler to Ford, and it's not too
costly, that would make the job easier.

From what I can see, I need +12, GND, Clock, and Lights on plug #1
and Left Spkr. Right Spkr, and one speaker common (gnd).
That's 7 out of 12 wires.

Any suggestions, please ???

Good luck.

Thanks. I found the following website and it has an exact photo of
the rear of this radio. HERE:
http://www.river-oaks-car-stereo.com/cars/chrysler.html
It says "Radio Pictures" above the picture.

It appears they have the plugs with short wires. I will have to
contact them and see if that is the right ones.

This webpage lead me to this website link where I was seriously
distracted by the photo on the page. HOT DAMN !!!!
http://www.installer.com/howto.html
I'd hire her in a second, but I'd help while she was under the dash,
by laying on top of her to hold the flashlight.......
I totally forgot about the radio and looked at that picture for
awhile......

OK, getting back to the radio, I think that website can help, but I'm
still worried about that security code now that you said it....

I think I'll just connect a 12V source via alligator clips and a few
speakers and see what happens.

Why the F**K do they have to make everything so complicated these
days. Please, someone take me back to the 1960s and 70s.... When
life was simple !!!!

 

[Deke]

<dannydee@nospammm.com> wrote in message
news:3u5g34pgvv2s9adjrn8nj0vggddvpnu0sk@4ax.com...

On Sat, 24 May 2008 10:27:28 +0000 (UTC), bz
bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote:

dannydee@nospammm.com wrote in news:vhmf34l6nrq8jj4akttnsrsm1g9kbq08u9@
4ax.com:

Believe it or not, about 30 years ago I worked in a car stereo
installation shop as well as a CB radio installer. Back then, we had
to manually connect each wire.

Been there, done that.


Times sure have changed, but I'm not sure if this is for the good.
I just bought a factory car radio from a garage sale. It has a built
in radio, tape player, amplifier, equalizer and clock. The sellers
said they bought the car new, and had a CD player installed a few
months later. I can see the radio is nearly new. I did not get the
year or model of chrysler from them.

Did you get the security code with the 'new radio', if not, you may have
problems using it.
I think there are places on line you can 'buy' the security code.


Security code ????? WTF are you talking about. This is a radio, not
a bank safe. Are you serious about this? I have not dealt with any
of the new stuff like this. Why is a security code needed and where
is it entered?

The problem is that these newer radios all have plugins, which are
part of the vehicle. It might be easy to plug them into the proper
vehicle, but not any other vehicle.

I saw on the web that there are adaptors, but how do I know what to
get? Here's what I got. It's from a newer chrysler or unknown model
and year. (Probably the 90's because after that they pretty much
abandoned tape pleyers in favor of CDs).
I want to put it in a 1990 Ford F150 pickup, because the current radio
and clock are dead. I'm not worried about physical mounting, I'll
make it fit. But how to wire it ?????

There are 2 plugs on the rear. Both have SIX pins. One plug is +12V,
GND, Clock, Lights, and ? something else. (It's out in the garage and
I dont feel like going out there). The other plug has all speaker
wires for FOUR speakers (I will only need Two speakers in a pickup).
Each plug pin is labelled.

I was wrong. Now that I dragged it into the house, there are SEVEN
(not six) pins on each plug. Doing a google of the model number
brought it up as a 2000 Dodge Dakota OEM radio.

Here is the labelling of the pins.

FEED CONNECTOR PLUG

BAT
ACC
ILL
PARK
RF-
LF-
MUTE

SPEAKER CONNECTOR

RR-
LR-
RF+
LF+
RR+
LR+
ANT

OK, battery, accessory power, the LF- and RF- must be speakers
But what the heck is "ILL"

Illumination. It hooks up to the lighting circuit, when energized, it
reduced the brightness of the display.

What is PARK for
and while I know what MUTE does on a tv or whatever, why would this
radio have a MUTE wire? Would there be a mute button somewhere else
in the car, or what?

On the steering wheel controls, along with volume controls and controls for
changing stations.

And why is there both a pin labelled ANT and a standard push in
antenna jack?

For power antenna.

This radio was used for more than one model, and not just pickup trucks..
Does it have the three band, or five band equalizer with joy stick? The
five band was used in the high end models, like the Imperial.

Failure to properly terminate (with proper impedance) any output could
blow
the output circuit.

I'll have to check on this. It would be pretty easy to do with some
resistors..


I could probably solder a wire to each pin and hand wire it into the
truck, and that is likely what I may have to do. But my reason for
posting this is to find out if anyone has any suggestions of an easier
way to do this. I dont want to spend much for this project, but if
they make a direct plug from Chrysler to Ford, and it's not too
costly, that would make the job easier.

From what I can see, I need +12, GND, Clock, and Lights on plug #1
and Left Spkr. Right Spkr, and one speaker common (gnd).
That's 7 out of 12 wires.

Any suggestions, please ???

Good luck.

Thanks. I found the following website and it has an exact photo of
the rear of this radio. HERE:
http://www.river-oaks-car-stereo.com/cars/chrysler.html
It says "Radio Pictures" above the picture.

It appears they have the plugs with short wires. I will have to
contact them and see if that is the right ones.

This webpage lead me to this website link where I was seriously
distracted by the photo on the page. HOT DAMN !!!!
http://www.installer.com/howto.html
I'd hire her in a second, but I'd help while she was under the dash,
by laying on top of her to hold the flashlight.......
I totally forgot about the radio and looked at that picture for
awhile......

OK, getting back to the radio, I think that website can help, but I'm
still worried about that security code now that you said it....

I think I'll just connect a 12V source via alligator clips and a few
speakers and see what happens.

Why the F**K do they have to make everything so complicated these
days. Please, someone take me back to the 1960s and 70s.... When
life was simple !!!!

 

[bz]

"ctops.legal" <ctops.legal@gmail.com> wrote in news:20fd4783-628b-4d91-
bcd2-ec50bbb72787@c65g2000hsa.googlegroups.com:

Yea by coincidence I was discussing in another group Spamcop, and
Carnivore, aka DCS1000 which is a hardware gaget that any honorable
ISP would not allow, but do you guys know of a computer based software
retail/custom that will extract the header information from emails ?

I use thunderbird to read my e-mails.
I do a ctrl-U to view the source, which includes the headers.
Other programs have ways also. Takes some practice to understand the
headers.
http://www.spamcop.net/fom-serve/cache/19.html




--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

"ctops.legal" <ctops.legal@gmail.com> wrote in news:20fd4783-628b-4d91-
bcd2-ec50bbb72787@c65g2000hsa.googlegroups.com:

Yea by coincidence I was discussing in another group Spamcop, and
Carnivore, aka DCS1000 which is a hardware gaget that any honorable
ISP would not allow, but do you guys know of a computer based software
retail/custom that will extract the header information from emails ?

I use thunderbird to read my e-mails.
I do a ctrl-U to view the source, which includes the headers.
Other programs have ways also. Takes some practice to understand the
headers.
http://www.spamcop.net/fom-serve/cache/19.html




--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

dannydee@nospammm.com wrote in news:3u5g34pgvv2s9adjrn8nj0vggddvpnu0sk@
4ax.com:

Security code ????? WTF are you talking about. This is a radio, not
a bank safe. Are you serious about this?

Yep. The radio in my wifes 93 Honda isn't working right now because we need
to go to the dealer and get the code. We had to pull a fuse to check
something and have lost the code.

I have not dealt with any
of the new stuff like this. Why is a security code needed and where
is it entered?

Most car radios/stereos now have a factory programmed security code.
If the power is disconnected, you need to key the code in through the
channel buttons before the radio will work.

This is to discourage thieves from ripping out your dash to steal your
radio.
They can't use or sell it (or that is the theory) because it can't be used
without the code.



--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

dannydee@nospammm.com wrote in news:3u5g34pgvv2s9adjrn8nj0vggddvpnu0sk@
4ax.com:

Security code ????? WTF are you talking about. This is a radio, not
a bank safe. Are you serious about this?

Yep. The radio in my wifes 93 Honda isn't working right now because we need
to go to the dealer and get the code. We had to pull a fuse to check
something and have lost the code.

I have not dealt with any
of the new stuff like this. Why is a security code needed and where
is it entered?

Most car radios/stereos now have a factory programmed security code.
If the power is disconnected, you need to key the code in through the
channel buttons before the radio will work.

This is to discourage thieves from ripping out your dash to steal your
radio.
They can't use or sell it (or that is the theory) because it can't be used
without the code.



--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:48381168.9C164D3F@hotmail.com:

bz wrote:

Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in

Those 'tiny' currents can be quite large
when discharging a significant charge.

Yes, but you can not 'have a significant charge' on a chip without
having a high voltage differential between the chip and the conductor!

You can certainly have a charge that does not exceed the breakdown
potential of the IC oxide layer yet results in probably several AMPS of
instantaneous current when shorted into close to zero ohms through an
aluminium foil sheet.

Why do you NITWITS feel the need to argue about the BLEEDING OBVIOUS ?

Why do you feel the need to insult someone that is trying to help you
understand something?

A half amp is .5 coul/sec. This represents about 3.121 x10^18 electrons.
A penny (1950 vintage) weighs about 3.1 gm and contains about 2.9 x 10^22
atoms.
There are clearly quite a few electrons in that penny, but NOT a huge excess
of electrons, normally.

Most chips have very small amounts of metal in them. Lets say the gate in
question holds 1 mg of metal.
(it is almost certainly MUCH less than that, but lets go with that for the
moment)
If it were copper, there would be about 9.3x10^18 atoms, so out of every
three atoms, we would need to have 1 excess electron in order to have a
charge of .5 coul.

The electric field is proportional to the charge and inversely proportional
to the square of the distance between the charge centers(the dielectric
thickness in this case)

A volt is a joule per coulomb.

For a parallel plate capacitor, V = q/C. so, what is the value of the
capacitor we have charged inside that chip?

Lets say it is 1 pf. To charge the cap with .5 coul of electrons what voltage
do we need?
My calculations show 5x10^11 volts. That seems a bit over any gate rating I
can imagine for any normal chips.

Even if the gate were 10 uF, a charge of half a coulomb would require 50 kV.

As I said before, current from charge on the chip is NOT a significant
factor.
VOLTAGE from charges on the chip ARE the hazard.

Do your own calculations and stop calling people names.



--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[dBc]

Greetings Bob..

Regarding:
"The symptoms I saw were enough to convince me the problem was 1)
video processor or, 2) combination of failures, either of which would
be excessively expensive and time consuming for me to repair."

So.. what's your conclusion? Are you going to have some else look at
it or are you going to give up and purchase something else? I'm only
curious since a few here may be wondering what you are going to end up
doing, especially after the initial post.

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor



"Robert Swinney" <judybob@tx.rr.com> wrote in message
news:48357ebe$0$3395$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
| Mr. Mentor,
|
| Thanx for your reply. No, I did not test the receiver on separate
OTA signals, although I have an
| AB switch and antenna in the attic. The symptoms I saw were enough
to convince me the problem was
| 1) video processor or, 2) combination of failures, either of which
would be excessively expensive
| and time consuming for me to repair.
|
| Bob Swinney
| "dBc" <not_necessary@thanks.com> wrote in message
news:917Zj.119$oJ4.3503220@petpeeve.ziplink.net...
| Greetings Bob..
|
| Regarding:
| "In general, chips pretty much work, or don't. It's rare to get the
| sort of fault that you're describing from any kind of semiconductor
| failure. My money would be on caps."
|
| While I generally agree with this above rationale, if the
| semiconductor or IC naturally runs hot or very hot, there can be
| situations where the heat sink compound has dried out and the solder
| is getting so hot as to make intermittent electrical contact with
the
| PC board or wiring. In such a case, applying fresh heat sink
compound,
| re-mounting the component and sucking up the old solder from the
pins
| and re-soldering with fresh solder connections can lead to a return
of
| reliable operation. I've had experience with this very same
situation
| where the output IC was electrically just fine, but it was getting
too
| hot not being adequately heat sunk. Result was cold solder
connections
| to the PC board due to repeated excessive heating then later
cooling.
|
| Have you tested your Sony on VHF reception vs. UHF reception? Are
the
| symptoms the same with either band? What happens if you feed the set
| video from a DVD drive or alternate source, is the video then fine
or
| still distorted? By doing these things, you can end up eliminating a
| great deal of the circuitry involved in the set. This also tends to
| isolate what areas could be of concern. The slick part of this is
you
| can do this without removing a single screw.
|
| My reasoning, I have a little Sony KV-1380R sitting right in front
of
| me. This set a few years ago started losing UHF reception which
ended
| up resulting in the 'snow' type display. The first thing I did is
move
| over to VHF to see if the same symptoms existed with intermittent
lose
| of video reception - it didn't. I then fed it a signal from an old
VHS
| recorder. In fact, I used the tuner in the VHS recorder - again, all
| was well and reliable since it used either channel 3 or 4 (VHF).
This
| pointed to the UHF tuner before I removed one screw from the
cabinet.
| Sure enough, one of the multi-pins extruding from the metal enclosed
| UHF tuner through the main PC board had become electrically
| disconnected with heat. Kind of looked like a volcano with a smaller
| lead sticking up through the middle of the volcano. Under
| magnification, you could see the black ring around the lead sticking
| through. I took my thumb nail and nudged the lead and it freely
moved.
| I sucked up the old solder, re-soldered that pin, cleaned up the
| residual flux, re-assembled the set and it's been working fine for 7
| years now on VHF or UHF.
|
| Cheers,
| Mr. Mentor
|
|
|
|
| "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
| news:sWJYj.28632$ie5.16660@newsfe05.ams2...
||
|| "Robert Swinney" <judybob@tx.rr.com> wrote in message
|| news:4832d9e5$0$20189$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
|| > My 3 or 4 year-old 27 in. Sony went belly up. I've replaced it
| with a
|| > digi-ready Samsung and am
|| > thinking
|| > about repairing the Sony and relegating it to the bedroom. Sony
| symptoms
|| > seem to indicate the video
|| > processor is at fault; ragged, torn but identifyable B&W pix;
|| > picture-in-picture is OK and in color.
|| > In my opinion, these symptoms are consistent with a failed video
|| > processor. Does anyone have
|| > experience replacing the video processor in a Sony TV ? Is it a
| SM chip,
|| > etc, etc. Please advise,
|| > Thanx.
|| >
|| > Bob Swinney
|| >
||
|| In general, chips pretty much work, or don't. It's rare to get the
| sort of
|| fault that you're describing from any kind of semiconductor
failure.
| My
|| money would be on caps.
||
|| Arfa
||
||
|
|

 

[dBc]

UCLAN..

Another possible solution is after describing exactly what you wish to
be asked, let someone ELSE make the phone call for you.. It would
probably be much more productive than e-mail or a news group combined.
This solution is all based on how important or not this information is
to you..

Good luck!

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor


"UCLAN" <nomail@thanks.org> wrote in message
news:m%hZj.1807$7k1.756@newsfe24.lga...
| (1) I have a paralyzed vocal cord and cannot communicate well over
the phone.
| (2) I do not have the VCR in question, but was inquiring because a
distant
| relative wanted to "borrow" some of my SVHS recordings.
|
| I thought the question was pretty clear. I don't want/need the
service
| manuals, I just wanted to know if it had SQPB. But thanks for your
interest.
|
| dBc wrote:
|
| > Greetings..
| >
| > Have you considered giving Sony Service a call and asking? In
| > addition, simply getting a hold the service manual through Sony
| > Service. These are possible solutions.
| >
| > Cheers,
| > Mr. Mentor
| >
| >
| > "UCLAN" <nomail@thanks.org> wrote in message
| > news:OFOXj.44607$Fc1.32653@newsfe07.phx...
| > | Does anyone here know if the Sony SLV-P30HF VCR has SQPB (SVHS
Quasi
| > | playback) circuitry? Thanks.

 

[dBc]

Greetings Michael..

Regarding:
| Thompson?
| <http://www.zenith.com/index.asp?url=./sub_about/about_index.asp>

I'm not really sure what this URL has to do with schematics or the
source for service manuals..

Yes, it would appear that Thomson (ends up no "p"), is now defunct
according to Wikipedia. Now, I'm glad that I got those schematics when
I did. I state this knowing that it may now be possible to download
those schematics, these days, for free.

http://www.user-manuals.com/index.php

http://fileshare.eshop.bg/most_popular/list_400.html

Now days it's:
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/service_manual/datasheets_z_0.html

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor



"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:4837CB3C.9A76C9DA@earthlink.net...
| dBc wrote:
| >
| > Greetings Bill..
| >
| > The service manual & schematics aren't all that expensive to
| > purchase..
| >
| > Something to consider. Personally, I don't hesitate picking up the
| > 'official' schematics from the manufacturer. How much work they
put
| > into them reveals whether I'll be interested in purchasing any
future
| > products from that same manufacturer.
| >
| > I had a Zenith 25" stereo color TV given to me that needed some
| > attention. The first thing I did was to find out who carried the
| > schematics and later, in fact, called Thompson and ordered them.
For
| > the information I needed, they were worth every penny I spent. To
this
| > day I don't regret purchasing those schematics!
|
|
| Thompson?
| <http://www.zenith.com/index.asp?url=./sub_about/about_index.asp>
|
| --
| Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214
to
| prove it.
| Member of DAV #85.
|
| Michael A. Terrell
| Central Florida

 

[dBc]

Greetings Michael..

Regarding:
| Thompson?
| <http://www.zenith.com/index.asp?url=./sub_about/about_index.asp>

I'm not really sure what this URL has to do with schematics or the
source for service manuals..

Yes, it would appear that Thomson (ends up no "p"), is now defunct
according to Wikipedia. Now, I'm glad that I got those schematics when
I did. I state this knowing that it may now be possible to download
those schematics, these days, for free.

http://www.user-manuals.com/index.php

http://fileshare.eshop.bg/most_popular/list_400.html

Now days it's:
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/service_manual/datasheets_z_0.html

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor



"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:4837CB3C.9A76C9DA@earthlink.net...
| dBc wrote:
| >
| > Greetings Bill..
| >
| > The service manual & schematics aren't all that expensive to
| > purchase..
| >
| > Something to consider. Personally, I don't hesitate picking up the
| > 'official' schematics from the manufacturer. How much work they
put
| > into them reveals whether I'll be interested in purchasing any
future
| > products from that same manufacturer.
| >
| > I had a Zenith 25" stereo color TV given to me that needed some
| > attention. The first thing I did was to find out who carried the
| > schematics and later, in fact, called Thompson and ordered them.
For
| > the information I needed, they were worth every penny I spent. To
this
| > day I don't regret purchasing those schematics!
|
|
| Thompson?
| <http://www.zenith.com/index.asp?url=./sub_about/about_index.asp>
|
| --
| Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214
to
| prove it.
| Member of DAV #85.
|
| Michael A. Terrell
| Central Florida

 

[Arfa Daily]

"dBc" <not_necessary@thanks.com> wrote in message
news:B1YZj.129$oJ4.3503523@petpeeve.ziplink.net...

Greetings Bob..

Regarding:
"The symptoms I saw were enough to convince me the problem was 1)
video processor or, 2) combination of failures, either of which would
be excessively expensive and time consuming for me to repair."

So.. what's your conclusion? Are you going to have some else look at
it or are you going to give up and purchase something else? I'm only
curious since a few here may be wondering what you are going to end up
doing, especially after the initial post.

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor

I know this pops up fairly regularly, and that some people have very strong
views on it, but top posts on newsgroup threads can often make it hard to
follow the thread chronologically, and to see exactly what it is that the
top poster is replying to ...

Arfa

 

[JANA]

A very common problem is that the cookies privacy is set too high. Yahoo
requires to load cookies. Set the cookies privacy to medium.

--

JANA
_____


<captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:cc34e6fa-a5d1-4699-8751-841e936bfb5d@m73g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
Recently I have found it impossible to sign into my Yahoo email
account from my computer. I get an invalid ID message. It asks me if
my Caps lock or A light is on and they're not. Nothing else seems to
be different. I can't figure this out. I have no problems signing in
from any other computer. Does anyone know why this could be happening?
Also, unless anyone knows differently trying to contact Yahoo tech
support is an excercise in futility. Thanks for any help. Lenny.

 

[JANA]

If you need a few amps of current to blow out a direct short, get a good
5 Amp or heavier 12 volt supply. Get enough capacitors that you can put
in parallel to build up at least 60,000 uF or more. Put a 3 or 4 ohm 10
Watt resistor in series with the caps to the power supply. This way,
when switching on to charge the caps, you don't blow the "@ss" off the
power supply.

After about 20 to 30 seconds or so, connect your clip leads directly
from the caps to whatever you want to blow the short out of.

If the above does not work, and you want to feel like a really weird mad
scientist (I am serious), get a few fully charged 120 Amp automobile
batteries. Connect them in parallel. The peak full load output should be
more than 1200 Amps. If this does not blow out the short, then you know
that probably nothing will.

With a few automobile batteries in parallel the peak output can exceed
14 kW. Just take care that you don't injure yourself or start an
electrical fire with this!

--

JANA
_____


"Wiebe Cazemier" <wiebe@halfgaar.net> wrote in message
news:1b384$48341d0e$d4cc82be$20634@cache5.tilbu1.nb.home.nl...
Hi,

Because all else failed, I want to go to the extreme in blowing out the
cathode-G1 short, from which my Eizo T766 19" CRT suffers. After the
capacitor
discharge, the short has gone from 1K ohm, to 0.0 Ohm, and I can make
the
internal wiring of the tube red hot by running 3A of current through
it...

The repair FAQ mentions using a Tesla coil. The nearest thing to a Tesla
coil I
used, was the 750V G2 of another (scrap) monitor, but that can only be
sustained for a fraction of a second before the monitor shuts off;
nowhere
near the 10 seconds the repair FAQ states.

My question is this: can I use the anode and ground wire of another
monitor to
act as my Tesla coil? How do I prevent breakdown of air and/or vacuum
around
the CRT pins and such (I don't want arcing in the wrong place). And,
very
importantly, can the flyback sustain such an arc? I've seen videos on
the
internet in which they use the anode of a monitor to create a
sustainable arc
between anode and probably ground, but I don't know if it needs to be
modified
for that (because an arc is basically a short).

I am aware of the dangers BTW; when I do this, I will take proper safety
measures.

Regards,

Wiebe Cazemier