Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[b]

On Apr 11, 2:23 pm, inquilaabi <inquilaabi.2ov...@diybanter.com>
wrote:

Hi Ben,

Many thanks for your reply. You say in your reply to replace R406 R407
to 27R and C424 to 470uF. According to the schematic diagram (thanks
for that link, it is a great help!) R406 is 1.5K, R407 is 3.3K and C424
is 82p. Would I replace the components with their original values or
with the values you have suggested?

It's been a few years, so maybe my info is not 100% ...Test the
resistors to check their condition. replace with same values as the
ones on the board now or, if in doubt stick with the schematic
values. let us know how you get on.
good luck!

 

[Nélio Abreu]

If it was a broken cable, lose connection or durty contacts, it didn't cause
the sound to decrease or increase it's volume, which it's what it happens.
In case of a broken cable or durty connector, there would be interruption of
the sound and possibly scratchs sounds. What happens is this...

Imagine that your are listening to music, let's say with the volume at 1/2
level....
Sudenly, I turn the volume knob fast to 1/4 of the level down, leave it
there for, let's say 1 second and then turn it to 3/4 of level fast.

This is what it's happening but with no one touching the knob or cables.

"DaveM" <masondg4499@comcast99.net> wrote in message
news:wcOdnXqeF4QNsIDbnZ2dnUVZ_tunnZ2d@comcast.com...

"Nélio Abreu" <nelio.abreu@sapo.pt> wrote in message
news:461d240c$0$10926$a729d347@news.telepac.pt...
This happens without touching the unit. I just turn it on, set the volume
to 1/2 level or eaven to 1/4 level, initialy it plays Ok....but after a
short while, the sound goes down, like if I had turn the volume to
minimum, it stays low for a few seconds and then comes up, sometimes to
the original level, and sometimes to maximum (almost). When it starts
doing this, it continues to do without stoping. I don't need to touch it
to happen....it simply happens. If it are the capacitors, which ones ones
should be causing this?


pfjw@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1176309366.038713.216280@y80g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 11, 11:46 am, Nélio Abreu <nelio.ab...@sapo.pt> wrote:
Nélio R. C. Abreu
Portugal
nelio.ab...@sapo.pt

Hi there,

I have a Creative DTT2200 6.1 Sound system that I have bought a few
years ago. It have worked fine up until a few weeks ago. Now during
playback, the sound goes up and down sudenly without touching the volume
knob. I have checked the main board and power supply, thinking the
problem could be located in one of the many electrolitic capacitors that
might have been damage (for example liking fluid out or with the top
expanded) but no capacitor is damaged. Does any one have a clue what the
problem is?

Please post reply in this news or send me email to the above adress.

Thanks a lot.

Capacitors can fail without visible damage. But this "sounds" more
like an intermittent and/or aground problem. Try cleaning the controls
and looking hard at any interconnects. You also may have a cold-solder
somewhere. Can you make it happen by tapping the unit from various
angles, or shaking it, or tapping the controls or connections?

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA



You're assuming that the speaker unit is bad. It might not be. Check the
audio cable that connects to your sound card. Might have a broken
connection in the speaker unit or in the plug on the end of the cable.
Check the connection at the output jack on the sound card. Might just be
a loose or dirty connection. Or it might have inadvertently been pulled
loose.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters
in the address)

Life is like a roll of toilet paper; the closer to the end, the faster it
goes.

 

[pfjw@aol.com]

On Apr 11, 4:55 pm, "Nélio Abreu" <nelio.ab...@sapo.pt> wrote:

If it was a broken cable, lose connection or durty contacts, it didn't cause
the sound to decrease or increase it's volume, which it's what it happens.

Unless it is the circuit from the center-tap or wiper. This has every
aspect of a heat-related defect. You need to do a physical series of
tests then use a freeze-spray to test. But I doubt it is a capacitor.
And even if it is, that too would indicate by the freeze spray.

Heat-defects can be mechanical as well as electronic.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

 

[DaveM]

"Nélio Abreu" <nelio.abreu@sapo.pt> wrote in message
news:461d594a$0$12945$a729d347@news.telepac.pt...

If it was a broken cable, lose connection or durty contacts, it didn't cause
the sound to decrease or increase it's volume, which it's what it happens. In
case of a broken cable or durty connector, there would be interruption of the
sound and possibly scratchs sounds. What happens is this...

Imagine that your are listening to music, let's say with the volume at 1/2
level....
Sudenly, I turn the volume knob fast to 1/4 of the level down, leave it there
for, let's say 1 second and then turn it to 3/4 of level fast.

This is what it's happening but with no one touching the knob or cables.

"DaveM" <masondg4499@comcast99.net> wrote in message
news:wcOdnXqeF4QNsIDbnZ2dnUVZ_tunnZ2d@comcast.com...
"Nélio Abreu" <nelio.abreu@sapo.pt> wrote in message
news:461d240c$0$10926$a729d347@news.telepac.pt...
This happens without touching the unit. I just turn it on, set the volume to
1/2 level or eaven to 1/4 level, initialy it plays Ok....but after a short
while, the sound goes down, like if I had turn the volume to minimum, it
stays low for a few seconds and then comes up, sometimes to the original
level, and sometimes to maximum (almost). When it starts doing this, it
continues to do without stoping. I don't need to touch it to happen....it
simply happens. If it are the capacitors, which ones ones should be causing
this?


pfjw@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1176309366.038713.216280@y80g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 11, 11:46 am, Nélio Abreu <nelio.ab...@sapo.pt> wrote:
Nélio R. C. Abreu
Portugal
nelio.ab...@sapo.pt

Hi there,

I have a Creative DTT2200 6.1 Sound system that I have bought a few years
ago. It have worked fine up until a few weeks ago. Now during playback, the
sound goes up and down sudenly without touching the volume knob. I have
checked the main board and power supply, thinking the problem could be
located in one of the many electrolitic capacitors that might have been
damage (for example liking fluid out or with the top expanded) but no
capacitor is damaged. Does any one have a clue what the problem is?

Please post reply in this news or send me email to the above adress.

Thanks a lot.

Capacitors can fail without visible damage. But this "sounds" more
like an intermittent and/or aground problem. Try cleaning the controls
and looking hard at any interconnects. You also may have a cold-solder
somewhere. Can you make it happen by tapping the unit from various
angles, or shaking it, or tapping the controls or connections?

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA



You're assuming that the speaker unit is bad. It might not be. Check the
audio cable that connects to your sound card. Might have a broken connection
in the speaker unit or in the plug on the end of the cable. Check the
connection at the output jack on the sound card. Might just be a loose or
dirty connection. Or it might have inadvertently been pulled loose.

Oh, yes.. I've seen it happen all too often. Broken or loose connections in
wiring and broken solder connections very definitely can cause your symptoms.
Inside the speaker enclosure, vibrations are set up by the sound emanating from
the speakers. This vibration can cause the shaky connection to make or break,
sometimes with a higher than normal resistance, which can cause exactly what
you're experiencing.
Mind you, I'm not saying that is your problem... just saying that you shouldn't
dismiss the idea until you eliminate that as the cause.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Life is like a roll of toilet paper; the closer to the end, the faster it goes.

 

[Nélio Abreu]

I have rebuild all soldering in the AMPOP's, the large ones with a heatsink,
but the problem remains. I have also rebuild all soldering in the conectors
but with no result.

"DaveM" <masondg4499@comcast99.net> wrote in message
news:gN6dndQJw5fxBoDbnZ2dnUVZ_ternZ2d@comcast.com...

"Nélio Abreu" <nelio.abreu@sapo.pt> wrote in message
news:461d594a$0$12945$a729d347@news.telepac.pt...
If it was a broken cable, lose connection or durty contacts, it didn't
cause the sound to decrease or increase it's volume, which it's what it
happens. In case of a broken cable or durty connector, there would be
interruption of the sound and possibly scratchs sounds. What happens is
this...

Imagine that your are listening to music, let's say with the volume at
1/2 level....
Sudenly, I turn the volume knob fast to 1/4 of the level down, leave it
there for, let's say 1 second and then turn it to 3/4 of level fast.

This is what it's happening but with no one touching the knob or cables.

"DaveM" <masondg4499@comcast99.net> wrote in message
news:wcOdnXqeF4QNsIDbnZ2dnUVZ_tunnZ2d@comcast.com...
"Nélio Abreu" <nelio.abreu@sapo.pt> wrote in message
news:461d240c$0$10926$a729d347@news.telepac.pt...
This happens without touching the unit. I just turn it on, set the
volume to 1/2 level or eaven to 1/4 level, initialy it plays Ok....but
after a short while, the sound goes down, like if I had turn the volume
to minimum, it stays low for a few seconds and then comes up, sometimes
to the original level, and sometimes to maximum (almost). When it
starts doing this, it continues to do without stoping. I don't need to
touch it to happen....it simply happens. If it are the capacitors,
which ones ones should be causing this?


pfjw@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1176309366.038713.216280@y80g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 11, 11:46 am, Nélio Abreu <nelio.ab...@sapo.pt> wrote:
Nélio R. C. Abreu
Portugal
nelio.ab...@sapo.pt

Hi there,

I have a Creative DTT2200 6.1 Sound system that I have bought a few
years ago. It have worked fine up until a few weeks ago. Now during
playback, the sound goes up and down sudenly without touching the
volume knob. I have checked the main board and power supply, thinking
the problem could be located in one of the many electrolitic
capacitors that might have been damage (for example liking fluid out
or with the top expanded) but no capacitor is damaged. Does any one
have a clue what the problem is?

Please post reply in this news or send me email to the above adress.

Thanks a lot.

Capacitors can fail without visible damage. But this "sounds" more
like an intermittent and/or aground problem. Try cleaning the controls
and looking hard at any interconnects. You also may have a cold-solder
somewhere. Can you make it happen by tapping the unit from various
angles, or shaking it, or tapping the controls or connections?

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA



You're assuming that the speaker unit is bad. It might not be. Check
the audio cable that connects to your sound card. Might have a broken
connection in the speaker unit or in the plug on the end of the cable.
Check the connection at the output jack on the sound card. Might just
be a loose or dirty connection. Or it might have inadvertently been
pulled loose.



Oh, yes.. I've seen it happen all too often. Broken or loose
connections in wiring and broken solder connections very definitely can
cause your symptoms.
Inside the speaker enclosure, vibrations are set up by the sound emanating
from the speakers. This vibration can cause the shaky connection to make
or break, sometimes with a higher than normal resistance, which can cause
exactly what you're experiencing.
Mind you, I'm not saying that is your problem... just saying that you
shouldn't dismiss the idea until you eliminate that as the cause.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters
in the address)

Life is like a roll of toilet paper; the closer to the end, the faster it
goes.

 

[pfjw@aol.com]

On Apr 12, 6:44 am, "Nélio Abreu" <nelio.ab...@sapo.pt> wrote:

I have rebuild all soldering in the AMPOP's, the large ones with a heatsink,
but the problem remains. I have also rebuild all soldering in the conectors
but with no result.

"DaveM" <masondg4...@comcast99.net> wrote in message

news:gN6dndQJw5fxBoDbnZ2dnUVZ_ternZ2d@comcast.com...



"Nélio Abreu" <nelio.ab...@sapo.pt> wrote in message
news:461d594a$0$12945$a729d347@news.telepac.pt...
If it was a broken cable, lose connection or durty contacts, it didn't
cause the sound to decrease or increase it's volume, which it's what it
happens. In case of a broken cable or durty connector, there would be
interruption of the sound and possibly scratchs sounds. What happens is
this...

Imagine that your are listening to music, let's say with the volume at
1/2 level....
Sudenly, I turn the volume knob fast to 1/4 of the level down, leave it
there for, let's say 1 second and then turn it to 3/4 of level fast.

This is what it's happening but with no one touching the knob or cables.

"DaveM" <masondg4...@comcast99.net> wrote in message
news:wcOdnXqeF4QNsIDbnZ2dnUVZ_tunnZ2d@comcast.com...
"Nélio Abreu" <nelio.ab...@sapo.pt> wrote in message
news:461d240c$0$10926$a729d347@news.telepac.pt...
This happens without touching the unit. I just turn it on, set the
volume to 1/2 level or eaven to 1/4 level, initialy it plays Ok....but
after a short while, the sound goes down, like if I had turn the volume
to minimum, it stays low for a few seconds and then comes up, sometimes
to the original level, and sometimes to maximum (almost). When it
starts doing this, it continues to do without stoping. I don't need to
touch it to happen....it simply happens. If it are the capacitors,
which ones ones should be causing this?

p...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1176309366.038713.216280@y80g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 11, 11:46 am, Nélio Abreu <nelio.ab...@sapo.pt> wrote:
Nélio R. C. Abreu
Portugal
nelio.ab...@sapo.pt

Hi there,

I have a Creative DTT2200 6.1 Sound system that I have bought a few
years ago. It have worked fine up until a few weeks ago. Now during
playback, the sound goes up and down sudenly without touching the
volume knob. I have checked the main board and power supply, thinking
the problem could be located in one of the many electrolitic
capacitors that might have been damage (for example liking fluid out
or with the top expanded) but no capacitor is damaged. Does any one
have a clue what the problem is?

Please post reply in this news or send me email to the above adress.

Thanks a lot.

Capacitors can fail without visible damage. But this "sounds" more
like an intermittent and/or aground problem. Try cleaning the controls
and looking hard at any interconnects. You also may have a cold-solder
somewhere. Can you make it happen by tapping the unit from various
angles, or shaking it, or tapping the controls or connections?

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

You're assuming that the speaker unit is bad. It might not be. Check
the audio cable that connects to your sound card. Might have a broken
connection in the speaker unit or in the plug on the end of the cable.
Check the connection at the output jack on the sound card. Might just
be a loose or dirty connection. Or it might have inadvertently been
pulled loose.

Oh, yes.. I've seen it happen all too often. Broken or loose
connections in wiring and broken solder connections very definitely can
cause your symptoms.
Inside the speaker enclosure, vibrations are set up by the sound emanating
from the speakers. This vibration can cause the shaky connection to make
or break, sometimes with a higher than normal resistance, which can cause
exactly what you're experiencing.
Mind you, I'm not saying that is your problem... just saying that you
shouldn't dismiss the idea until you eliminate that as the cause.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters
in the address)

Life is like a roll of toilet paper; the closer to the end, the faster it
goes.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

With respect, getting out the clue-stick:

a) have you done the tap-wiggle test?
b) have you done the freeze-spray test?

Please let us know and with detail what you found.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

 

[Kristen Caldwell]

On Apr 13, 8:00 am, "Mark" <MarkWa...@Watts.com> wrote:

"Kristen Caldwell" who doesn't know shit about wiring wrote<fatanduglylikebrittanymar...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:1176409443.377927.174950@y80g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

On Apr 12, 8:23 am, "runde...@mail.win.org" <runde...@mail.win.org
wrote:
After searching high and low I'm coming to the conclusion that an
Aluminum compatible GFCI outlet does not exist.

So I want to install GFCI breakers on the associated circuits as an
alternative to fishing new wire.

How do I know if a GFCI breaker can be used on a circuit that is wired
aluminum?

GFCI breakers will still protect you if you stick a fork in a toaster
even with aluminum wire.

You should never connect a copper only rated device to aluminum wire because
it creates a serious fire hazzard. If you don't know that you shouldn't be
answering questions from people who obviously already know more than you.

I got a jar full of pennies and nickels and dimes?.

How come it hasn't caught on fire yet?

 

[Kristen Caldwell]

On Apr 12, 11:37 pm, "dean" <deanbrow...@yahoo.com> wrote:

I want to be able to walk around my entire house, with no cord or
central vacuum piping. Anyone know of such a thing?

you defintely want one of these, and this one doesn't even have a
cumbersome backpack:

http://tinyurl.com/yryh7v

 

[Kristen Caldwell]

On Apr 13, 1:08 pm, G <G...@G.com> wrote:

I guess the previous owner had an old bathtub/tiles sprayed with some
kind of white enamel paint or something because some of the edges of the
tiles that are hit by water constantly are starting to peel/crack off
exposing the original ugly tile underneath.

I bought "porc-a-fix" at home depot and was going to give that a try to
prevent water from getting into the tiles and peeling it inside out, but
is there a more common way to touch-up the tiles treated with such an
overcoat? Are there spray-on glossy white enamel paints I should use
instead?

Any tips/suggestions much appreciated!

Go back to home repo and get a new bathtub instead.

 

On 14 Apr, 07:30, "Kristen Caldwell"
<fatanduglylikebrittanymar...@yahoo.com> wrote:

On Apr 13, 8:00 am, "Mark" <MarkWa...@Watts.com> wrote:
"Kristen Caldwell" who doesn't know shit about wiring wrote<fatanduglylikebrittanymar...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1176409443.377927.174950@y80g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 12, 8:23 am, "runde...@mail.win.org" <runde...@mail.win.org
wrote:

After searching high and low I'm coming to the conclusion that an
Aluminum compatible GFCI outlet does not exist.

So I want to install GFCI breakers on the associated circuits as an
alternative to fishing new wire.

GFCIs protect against L-E shocks and shorts, which have nothing to do
with the risk that ali wiring posts. Al oxidises at joints, heats up &
catches fire. A gfci doesnt make the remotest difference to that. An
AFCI however would.

How do I know if a GFCI breaker can be used on a circuit that is wired
aluminum?

I'm not that familiar with US practices, but I dont expect many modern
electrical parts will have al compatible connections.

GFCI breakers will still protect you if you stick a fork in a toaster
even with aluminum wire.

You should never connect a copper only rated device to aluminum wire because
it creates a serious fire hazzard.

yup. If you need to put an AFCI in each circuit, the AFCI can have a
copper tail leading to a purpose designed cu to al connector. Follow
the proper procedure in the instructions, al behaves differently to
cu.

AFCIs arent perfect, but they do reduce risk quite a lot.


NT

 

[Sam E]

On 13 Apr 2007 23:30:11 -0700, "Kristen Caldwell"
<fatanduglylikebrittanymartin@yahoo.com> wrote:

On Apr 13, 8:00 am, "Mark" <MarkWa...@Watts.com> wrote:
"Kristen Caldwell" who doesn't know shit about wiring wrote<fatanduglylikebrittanymar...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:1176409443.377927.174950@y80g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

On Apr 12, 8:23 am, "runde...@mail.win.org" <runde...@mail.win.org
wrote:
After searching high and low I'm coming to the conclusion that an
Aluminum compatible GFCI outlet does not exist.

So I want to install GFCI breakers on the associated circuits as an
alternative to fishing new wire.

How do I know if a GFCI breaker can be used on a circuit that is wired
aluminum?

GFCI breakers will still protect you if you stick a fork in a toaster
even with aluminum wire.

You should never connect a copper only rated device to aluminum wire because
it creates a serious fire hazzard. If you don't know that you shouldn't be
answering questions from people who obviously already know more than you.

I got a jar full of pennies and nickels and dimes?.

How come it hasn't caught on fire yet?

How much current passes through your pennies and dimes? Are they
protected by an AFCI?

 

On 13 Apr 2007 23:55:04 -0700, meow2222@care2.com wrote:

GFCIs protect against L-E shocks and shorts, which have nothing to do
with the risk that ali wiring posts. Al oxidises at joints, heats up &
catches fire. A gfci doesnt make the remotest difference to that. An
AFCI however would.

Not any AFCI actually being sold today. They only detect parallel arcs
(short duration spikes of around 60-70a). AFCIs called "combination"
devices refer to the ability to detect a parallel arc in building
wiring plus arcs in plugged in equipment.
The typical aluminum wiring failure, oxidized connections, is a series
fault.
There is supposed to be the magic "series arc" device out there in
white lab coat land but you will not find it at the BORG.

 

[Nélio Abreu]

Not yet....first I have to bought the freeze spray

<pfjw@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1176401507.577300.234160@w1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 12, 6:44 am, "Nélio Abreu" <nelio.ab...@sapo.pt> wrote:

I have rebuild all soldering in the AMPOP's, the large ones with a
heatsink,
but the problem remains. I have also rebuild all soldering in the
conectors
but with no result.

"DaveM" <masondg4...@comcast99.net> wrote in message

news:gN6dndQJw5fxBoDbnZ2dnUVZ_ternZ2d@comcast.com...



"Nélio Abreu" <nelio.ab...@sapo.pt> wrote in message
news:461d594a$0$12945$a729d347@news.telepac.pt...
If it was a broken cable, lose connection or durty contacts, it didn't
cause the sound to decrease or increase it's volume, which it's what it
happens. In case of a broken cable or durty connector, there would be
interruption of the sound and possibly scratchs sounds. What happens is
this...

Imagine that your are listening to music, let's say with the volume at
1/2 level....
Sudenly, I turn the volume knob fast to 1/4 of the level down, leave it
there for, let's say 1 second and then turn it to 3/4 of level fast.

This is what it's happening but with no one touching the knob or
cables.

"DaveM" <masondg4...@comcast99.net> wrote in message
news:wcOdnXqeF4QNsIDbnZ2dnUVZ_tunnZ2d@comcast.com...
"Nélio Abreu" <nelio.ab...@sapo.pt> wrote in message
news:461d240c$0$10926$a729d347@news.telepac.pt...
This happens without touching the unit. I just turn it on, set the
volume to 1/2 level or eaven to 1/4 level, initialy it plays
Ok....but
after a short while, the sound goes down, like if I had turn the
volume
to minimum, it stays low for a few seconds and then comes up,
sometimes
to the original level, and sometimes to maximum (almost). When it
starts doing this, it continues to do without stoping. I don't need
to
touch it to happen....it simply happens. If it are the capacitors,
which ones ones should be causing this?

p...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1176309366.038713.216280@y80g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 11, 11:46 am, Nélio Abreu <nelio.ab...@sapo.pt> wrote:
Nélio R. C. Abreu
Portugal
nelio.ab...@sapo.pt

Hi there,

I have a Creative DTT2200 6.1 Sound system that I have bought a few
years ago. It have worked fine up until a few weeks ago. Now during
playback, the sound goes up and down sudenly without touching the
volume knob. I have checked the main board and power supply,
thinking
the problem could be located in one of the many electrolitic
capacitors that might have been damage (for example liking fluid out
or with the top expanded) but no capacitor is damaged. Does any one
have a clue what the problem is?

Please post reply in this news or send me email to the above adress.

Thanks a lot.

Capacitors can fail without visible damage. But this "sounds" more
like an intermittent and/or aground problem. Try cleaning the
controls
and looking hard at any interconnects. You also may have a
cold-solder
somewhere. Can you make it happen by tapping the unit from various
angles, or shaking it, or tapping the controls or connections?

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

You're assuming that the speaker unit is bad. It might not be. Check
the audio cable that connects to your sound card. Might have a broken
connection in the speaker unit or in the plug on the end of the cable.
Check the connection at the output jack on the sound card. Might just
be a loose or dirty connection. Or it might have inadvertently been
pulled loose.

Oh, yes.. I've seen it happen all too often. Broken or loose
connections in wiring and broken solder connections very definitely can
cause your symptoms.
Inside the speaker enclosure, vibrations are set up by the sound
emanating
from the speakers. This vibration can cause the shaky connection to
make
or break, sometimes with a higher than normal resistance, which can
cause
exactly what you're experiencing.
Mind you, I'm not saying that is your problem... just saying that you
shouldn't dismiss the idea until you eliminate that as the cause.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate
characters
in the address)

Life is like a roll of toilet paper; the closer to the end, the faster
it
goes.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

With respect, getting out the clue-stick:

a) have you done the tap-wiggle test?
b) have you done the freeze-spray test?

Please let us know and with detail what you found.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

 

[inquilaabi]

Hi Ben,

I’m having a few problems with the schematic diagram and the actual
circuit itself; they seem to be different! The schematic diagram does
not seen to relate to the circuitry of the tape deck. I have got hold
of the full service manual for the RS-TR373 and its not the same as the
actual circuit either... it is so confusing the PCB circuits/layouts
are completely different from what’s stated in the service manual.
This may explain the difference in the component values you quoted
earlier. The tape deck is definitely RS-TR373; it says it all over!!

Is there any light you can shed on this??

Kind regards,

inquilaabi




--
inquilaabi

 

[Coyote]

"Kristen Caldwell" <fatanduglylikebrittanymartin@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1176532210.972474.183140@y80g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

On Apr 13, 8:00 am, "Mark" <MarkWa...@Watts.com> wrote:
"Kristen Caldwell" who doesn't know shit about wiring
wrote<fatanduglylikebrittanymar...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:1176409443.377927.174950@y80g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

On Apr 12, 8:23 am, "runde...@mail.win.org" <runde...@mail.win.org
wrote:
After searching high and low I'm coming to the conclusion that an
Aluminum compatible GFCI outlet does not exist.

So I want to install GFCI breakers on the associated circuits as an
alternative to fishing new wire.

How do I know if a GFCI breaker can be used on a circuit that is
wired
aluminum?

GFCI breakers will still protect you if you stick a fork in a toaster
even with aluminum wire.

You should never connect a copper only rated device to aluminum wire
because
it creates a serious fire hazzard. If you don't know that you shouldn't
be
answering questions from people who obviously already know more than you.

I got a jar full of pennies and nickels and dimes?.

How come it hasn't caught on fire yet?

All wiring devices like receptacles, switches, GFCI breakers etc. are marked
for Alum. and or copper usage.
Some are copper only some are will work with both.

If in doubt you could make a short jumper. If your circuit conductor is #
12 or #10 alum. use a copper
#12 conductor spliced to the circuit conductor using a copper/alum. butt
splice A compound such as peremetx
could also be used to coat the conductors. Permitex is a paste like
compound that contains both copper and
aluminum metals.

 

[Malissa Baldwin]

On Apr 14, 10:37 am, Radio Matthew <matthew...@googlemail.com> wrote:

...my messages are going to four newsgroups?

Because Sitre Magana is a fat piece of shit.

 

[Malissa Baldwin]

On Apr 12, 7:02 pm, rag...@oaklandsyda.org wrote:

Our landlord has agreed to let us upgrade ourkitchen- probably
hasn't been done for twenty five years. He says we can spend "at about
the Home Depot level". Anybody got ideas on how we can get more bang
for our buck than Home Depot? And if Home Depot is the way to go, what
should we be looking for in - a stove, frig, cabinets and floor
covering?

Thanks so much for any ideas.

Mike

Here's another idea -- Instead of letting your food go to waste, call
Sitre Magana at 1-800-Corpulent-Cum-Guzzler.

 

[Malissa Baldwin]

On Apr 14, 7:53 pm, "RBM" <rbm2(remove this)@optonline.net> wrote:

Since there are millions of homes that don't have GFCI protected outlets in
all the required by current code areas, you decide

Just because Sitre Magana is in a wheelchair from stuffing his face
with doughnuts and making himself fat doesn't mean you have to as well.

 

[Malissa Baldwin]

On Apr 14, 7:58 pm, "Steve Barker" <ichasetra...@some.yahoo.com>
wrote:

We made it nearly a hundred years without them. I'd not worry about it.

--

But we've made it millions of years without doughnuts but Sitre Magana
literally can't stop stuffing his fat face with them.

 

[Malissa Baldwin]

On Apr 15, 7:49 am, "tmur...@juno.com" <tmur...@juno.com> wrote:

On Apr 14, 10:42 pm, Tim Smith <reply_in_gr...@mouse-potato.com
wrote:

I've got a GFCI outlet in a bathroom. If I test it by inserting one of
those 3-light testers that has a GFCI test button, it works fine. I
press the button, and *blam*, it trips right away.

However, if I test by using the test button built into the GFCI, the
light on the GFCI goes out while the button is pressed, but it does not
trip, and the light comes back on as soon as I release the test button.

Is this a serious "don't use that outlet until it is fixed" issue, or a
"go ahead and use it, but replace the GFCI at your convenience" issue?

--
--Tim Smith

It can mean the difference between getting a shock and getting fried
to death, but on the other hand you could save $8 to $10 bucks.

What's $8 to $10 dollars these days.

Sitre Magana can go through more than that in doughnuts in under an
hour.