Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 14:21:05 -0800, SMS
<scharf.steven@geemail.com> wrote:

Alan Moorman@visi.com wrote:

Then this is a recent change.

It isn't recent.

"normal" stop and go driving, short trips, etc. are
considered to be severe service by every manufacturer of
every car I've bought. And the recommendation for that is
the shorter oil-change interval.

No, it's the oil change industry, such as companies like Jiffy-Lube,
trying to convince people that nearly all driving qualifies at severe
service. The vehicle manufacturers make it pretty clear what constitutes
severe service, and it isn't stop and go driving by itself. It's solely
short trips, because the moisture in the oil never gets vaporized.

The 3000 mile myth has been passed on from generation to generation,
even as oils have progressed from single-weight non-detergent oils, to
multi-weight detergent oils.
Maybe in your infinite understanding of such things it's a
myth. However it is printed in black and white in every new
car manual I've gotten in the last 20 years with I bought a
new car.

I grant you that there are lots of companies that will make
more money if an owner chooses the shorter intervals, but I
doubt if the automobile manufacturer would keep putting it
in their new car manuals if there wasn't some truth to it!


Alan

==

It's not that I think stupidity should be punishable by death.
I just think we should take the warning labels off of everything
and let the problem take care of itself.

--------------------------------------------------------
 
Madness wrote:

Hey, I still have an IBM Model "M" 101 "clicky" from the original PS/2
line. Has some weight to it and won't slide around while typing (which
the main thing I hate about those modern "cheapies").
Me too. Every once in a while we find one at a yard sale, so we probably
have a lifetime supply. They feel and sound good. What could be better?

Also, a Microsoft
optical mouse which is about 8 or 9 years old and still going strong.
I had a [yard sale, not new] M$ mouse that stopped working, and have used
nothing but the cheap Inland optical mice from Fry's for several years. The
one I used most started responding erratically to wheel-turning, so I
replaced it with a cheap A4Tech equivalent, also from Fry's. So far, so good.

And speaking of Fry's: They sent me a check themselves when the company
weaseled out of the properly-completed rebate. They claimed that the
'Rebate Receipt' was improper and that I should have sent the regular
receipt. Fry's handled it properly. Screw K-World.

--
Cheers,
Bev
*********************************************
Not all cultures are equal. If they were, we
would have a lot more cannibal restaurants.
 
SMS wrote:
clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

I consider about 75-80% of in-town driving (and in-region in our area)
to be "severe service".

You may consider it severe, but the manufacturer doesn't. There is no
evidence that doing twice as many oil changes as the manufacturer
recommends has any effect on engine life. It doesn't really hurt
anything to change the oil at 3000 miles, or 1000 miles for that matter,
but all the independent tests of engine wear versus oil change interval
have proved that there is no advantage to following the severe service
interval for non-severe service.
Hang on. Theres another factor here - total cost of ownership. Given
that a large proportion of "ordinary" vehicle sales are to fleets, then
its a powerful argument for Brand A over Brand B if the Brand A
service interval is 7,000miles instead of 5,000. Given that most cars
are changed over every 2-3 years (or before the warranty expires) then
it wont matter to the original owner if you change the oil AT ALL or
not - even with 50,000 miles on it.

BUT if you keep your vehicles long term, then more regular oil changes
are indeed a good idea.

Crikey - how much is 4 litres of oil and a filter anyway?.......

And for Rod to have a say - I maintain the sun will rise tomorrow - you
disagree, in your experience, of course....

Andrew VK3BFA.
 
Go to the dealer for your car, and get the necessary parts to fix it.

--

JANA
_____


"JRS" <something@f9.co.uk> wrote in message
news:45af9ec1$0$8733$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader02.plus.net...
Hope someone might be able to offer some advice.

I have a tomtom Ipaq cradle with wired GPS receiver that is powered from the
cigarette lighter. The plug that goes into the lighter socket in the car has
disintegrated. I have a separate HP car charger for the Ipaq (5V 2A) that I
don't use and thought I could just chop the jack off the power lead for the
cradle and attach it to the Ipaq lead. However, having chopped both jacks
off and come to join them the Ipaq lead has 3 wires (red, yellow and white)
and the cradle lead has just black and white. I thought I might just be able
to measure the resistance of each wire to determine which part of the plug
each is connected to but they all show reduced resistance. Is it possible to
do what I am attempting and if so how!

Thanks

Jon
 
"Andrew VK3BFA" <ablight@alphalink.com.au> wrote in message
news:1169188639.831767.123860@11g2000cwr.googlegroups.com...

BUT if you keep your vehicles long term, then more regular oil changes
are indeed a good idea.

Crikey - how much is 4 litres of oil and a filter anyway?.......
We might all be better off if most of us drove Fiat 500s!
 
"The Real Bev" <bashley101+usenet@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:H6Zrh.68$4J5.66@newsfe05.lga...

And speaking of Fry's: They sent me a check themselves when the company
weaseled out of the properly-completed rebate. They claimed that the
'Rebate Receipt' was improper and that I should have sent the regular
receipt. Fry's handled it properly. Screw K-World.
Shades of OfficeMax!
 
Jumpster Jiver wrote:
gerryu21220@gmail.com wrote:
Oh, man... really? Is that the same as the infamous "Skippy"?

I'm curious: if this guy is such bad news, how did he ever get a 1500+
positive feedback rating on eBay? Wouldn't he get a lot more negative
feedback? Not trying to defend him - don't know this person, nor dealt
with him. Just puzzled.

Gerry

It probably means he is a good seller on ebay, especially if he has a
100% (or near that) positive rating.
Bu it also means he does not know the rules about where you may spam
advertisements about your items for sale.
Sonofawhore 66fourdoor at it again. Who'd of thunk!
 
gerryu21220@gmail.com wrote:
Oh, man... really? Is that the same as the infamous "Skippy"?

I'm curious: if this guy is such bad news, how did he ever get a 1500+
positive feedback rating on eBay? Wouldn't he get a lot more negative
feedback? Not trying to defend him - don't know this person, nor dealt
with him. Just puzzled.

Gerry

I still think he's Michael McCarty-alias Ras Mikael Enoch, etc. but
maybe he's an original broken record.

BTW--I was supposed to be Skippy or so a couple had delusions over.
Jeff Angus thought it up after his favorite comic strip about a mental
hospital patient. Having conversed with me for this long do you agree
with it?

Regardless, I thank you as you helped me as much as I may have helped
you.

There is no Skippy, which is why I poke fun back at some.
 
Andrew VK3BFA <ablight@alphalink.com.au> wrote
SMS wrote
clare at snyder.on.ca wrote

I consider about 75-80% of in-town driving
(and in-region in our area) to be "severe service".

You may consider it severe, but the manufacturer doesn't. There is no
evidence that doing twice as many oil changes as the manufacturer
recommends has any effect on engine life. It doesn't really hurt
anything to change the oil at 3000 miles, or 1000 miles for that
matter, but all the independent tests of engine wear versus oil
change interval have proved that there is no advantage to following
the severe service interval for non-severe service.

Hang on. Theres another factor here - total cost of ownership.
Given that a large proportion of "ordinary" vehicle sales are to fleets,
Wrong.

then its a powerful argument for Brand A over Brand B if
the Brand A service interval is 7,000miles instead of 5,000.
Wrong, and you say why its wrong in the next sentence.

Given that most cars are changed over every 2-3 years
(or before the warranty expires) then it wont matter to
the original owner if you change the oil AT ALL or
not - even with 50,000 miles on it.
Great footshot.

BUT if you keep your vehicles long term, then
more regular oil changes are indeed a good idea.
Yes, but you havent established that the
lower rate will see any long term problem.

Crikey - how much is 4 litres of oil and a filter anyway?.......
Quite a bit if you double the frequency and pay someone to do it.

And for Rod to have a say - I maintain the sun will rise
tomorrow - you disagree, in your experience, of course....
You'll end up completely blind if you dont watch out, bludger.
 
On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 22:10:24 -0600, Alan Moorman@visi.com wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 14:21:05 -0800, SMS
scharf.steven@geemail.com> wrote:

Alan Moorman@visi.com wrote:

Then this is a recent change.

It isn't recent.

"normal" stop and go driving, short trips, etc. are
considered to be severe service by every manufacturer of
every car I've bought. And the recommendation for that is
the shorter oil-change interval.

No, it's the oil change industry, such as companies like Jiffy-Lube,
trying to convince people that nearly all driving qualifies at severe
service. The vehicle manufacturers make it pretty clear what constitutes
severe service, and it isn't stop and go driving by itself. It's solely
short trips, because the moisture in the oil never gets vaporized.

The 3000 mile myth has been passed on from generation to generation,
even as oils have progressed from single-weight non-detergent oils, to
multi-weight detergent oils.

Maybe in your infinite understanding of such things it's a
myth. However it is printed in black and white in every new
car manual I've gotten in the last 20 years with I bought a
new car.

I grant you that there are lots of companies that will make
more money if an owner chooses the shorter intervals, but I
doubt if the automobile manufacturer would keep putting it
in their new car manuals if there wasn't some truth to it!


Alan
Manufacturer's recommended oil change interval for the Peugeot 407 is 20,000
miles.


Mark Rand
RTFM
 
Graham,

I substituted the four 2SC5707's with the BD911's and now the monitor works
fine.

Thanks for all your help.

--
David Farber
David Farber's Service Center
L.A., CA
<grobinso@lycos.co.uk> wrote in message
news:EVwph.32880$RL5.27172@newsfe2-gui.ntli.net...
Hi David, sorry if the last post was a but confusing. What i was trying to
say was that the circuitry seems to be very sensitve to an im-balance in
any
1 channel.

When i was doing some comparitive resistance checks on the 2 channels the
other day i noticed about 700k difference in resistance around the area of
the 2 transistors, this was traced to having different transistor types in
1
channel. I think the PWM detects this difference in current flow in 1
channel and shuts down.

All i would say is replace all 4 2sc5707 transistors (2 per channel) plug
in
the ccfl's and see what happens. If it works , then, as a test unplug 1
of
the ccfl tubes and you will see it shuts down again.

Also, if you replace the trannies and you get the same symptoms try
plugging
in a different pair of ccfl's , you might have a duff tube which is
causing
the imbalance.

Let me know how you get on

Graham






"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote in message
news:12qd45sia0uucd4@corp.supernews.com...
So are you saying that it works fine if you replace all four of the
transistors with the BD911's?

--
David Farber
David Farber's Service Center
L.A., CA

grobinso@lycos.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ztqph.55514$HV6.45054@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...
Just made another interesting observation on this board.

When the board has 2 BD911's fitted in place of the 2sc5707 in 1of the
channels and has 2sc5707's in the other channel then plugging in a pair
of
ccfl tubes gives the same symtoms (works for 3 seconds or so then goes
off).
The 2sc5707 transistors have been removed and metered and appear to be
ok.

If i put BD911's in both channels then the unit works (stays on). If i
unplug one of the CCFL tubes then i get the original fault and the unit
goes
off after 3 secs or so.

I am wondering if the Pulse Width Drive chip that drives the ccfl tubes
is
detecting an im-bablance in the 2 channels and is shutting down.either
that
or the 2 2sc5707 transistors are still defective despite reading ok on
cold
test.

Tricky one this !!

Graham


grobinso@lycos.co.uk> wrote in message
news:b92ph.48049$Qa6.42218@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...
Thanks David, will be interesting to see what happens after you get
the
replacement transistors in. Perhaps my continuing problems are due to
having tried BD911 transistors in place of the 2sc5707.

Let me know how you get on please.

Graham


"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote in message
news:12q87m840j8scdb@corp.supernews.com...
"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote in message
news:enmdu4$e8m$1@aioe.org...
This 17" Dell monitor, model number CN-0M1609-4633-3AG-2DTL,
will
power
on
when AC is first applied. In the middle of the screen appears,
"Dell
Genesis
Display Perfection." Then it disappears after a second. When you
press
the
power button with no input signal, the Dell self test feature
check
illuminates in the bottom left corner of the display. You can see
the
red,
green, blue, and white bars within the self test box. Then, it
starts
to
scroll diagonally up to the right for about a second and then the
display
turns off. The power light remains on. If you hook it up to a PC,
you
do
not
get any display. The boards are in good condition and I reflowed
the
solder
over many of the components with no improvement. Any ideas what
might
be
going on here?

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
David Farber's Service Center
L.A., CA





grobinso@lycos.co.uk> wrote in message
news:txUoh.61045$n36.43746@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net...
Hi David, i believe it should be ok with the trannies out, it just
means
that one channel will not be driven.

Would be interested to know if you still have the same symptom (on
for
2-3
secs and then off) with the trannies out.

I think what is happening is that the PWM chip is detecting
overcurrent
and
shutting down. I found that with BD911 transistors in in place of
the
2sc5707 i am still getting the same problem but i cant find any
more
s/c
devices. As i understand it , with these monitors this is a real
common
problem, even if you manage to get the thing working its likely to
break
down again, with the same devices s/c a day/week/or even months
later.
It
seems its always the same channel (the top lamp) that goes but
no-one
really
knows why. I also understand that the transformers are suspect and
go
s/c
or
arc internally. Dry solder joints are also a major problem as are
poor
quality electrolytic caps.

I am coming to the conclusion that this monitor suffers from a
major
design
fault from new, they seem to just make it out of warranty and then
fail
:)

Apparently many service shops now refuse to handle them, they are a
warranty
claim waiting to happen.

I am going to continue working on it though as i hate to give up on
things
like this, its my own monitor so cost isnt an issue but for repair
shops
it
well cold be.

Anyway, let me know what you find with the voltages, should be
interesting.

Regards

Graham

Hi Graham,

I checked the voltage at pin 9 of the TL1451A chip and have come up
with
the
same results that you found in your monitor. The voltage swings from
14
to
18 volts after shutdown.
--
David Farber
David Farber's Service Center
L.A., CA
 
<Alan Moorman@visi.com> wrote in message
The 3000 mile myth has been passed on from generation to generation,
even as oils have progressed from single-weight non-detergent oils, to
multi-weight detergent oils.

Maybe in your infinite understanding of such things it's a
myth. However it is printed in black and white in every new
car manual I've gotten in the last 20 years with I bought a
new car.
Most new cars recommend 3000 miles under severe conditions. For normal
use, 7500 is typical today as stated in my GM and Hyundai manuals. I've
been doing that in my cars for years. Works well for my driving conditions.
The oil change places give you that little sticker for 3000 miles under any
condition because they want to sell oil changes.

The manual also states that you should use genuine GM washer fluid too. Do
you?
 
Rod Speed wrote:
Andrew VK3BFA <ablight@alphalink.com.au> wrote
SMS wrote
clare at snyder.on.ca wrote
Sadly, I do despair at the lack of basic intellectual ability and
elementary social skills of some of my own countrymen - fortunately,
Rod is a special case and beyond being irritating is of no real
consequence in any society. Its like wrestling with a bagful of snakes
- interesting at first as a challenge, but eventually tiring.

Rod has achieved notoriety - his "insults" have been immortalized in
its own website at

http://www.sensationbot.com/chat-rodspeed.html

where you can type in a phrase and get a "Roddism" in return. Saves
time replying to his ravings.

Rod, some stats. According to your profile, you have

posted to 150 groups
total of 13666 messages
in the period Feb 2006 Jan 2007 - and this is just for Google groups!.
- an average of 37 per day, and thats assuming there is no down
time.....You spend too much time in front of your PC - DO try and get
out a bit more....

Perusal of these groups reveals you are an expert (or at least have a
strong "opinion" ) in every subject you choose to pursue. And you
manage to annoy an enormous number of people. Most of your posts are
late at night, or early morning. Do you have a job? - I did ask this
before, but as usual you never answer a direct question, or provide
any references to back up your "assertions."

Argument/Debate is more than saying "Your wrong", "no it isnt" , and
being abusive, - it is expected that you provide some referenced
confirmation of your claims.

I am thankful that, due to your obvious lack of social skills, you will
not get the chance to breed and thus pollute the gene pool any further.
At your end, its already too shallow to have long term viability.

Andrew VK3BFA.
 
Andrew VK3BFA <ablight@alphalink.com.au> desperately
attempted to bullshit its way out of its predicament and
fooled absolutely no one at all, as always.

No surprise that it got the bums rush, right out the door.

Even Telstra had noticed what a completely unemployable dud it was.
 
doc@sympatico.ca wrote in news:1169348263.349379.159780@
51g2000cwl.googlegroups.com:

While attempting a home-charge of a set of NiCd batteries, they were
left unattended and consequently exploded (relatively high current was
flowing through them). The basement area in which the explosion took
place is currently being ventilated overnight.

Does anyone have any recommendations for further safety precautions or
clean-up procedures?
The chemicals you're dealing with in a typical Ni-Cad battery are:

Nickel & Nickel Hydroxide
Cadmium & Cadmium Hydroxide
Sodium Hydroxide
Potassium Hydroxide
Cobalt Hydroxide

I would wear rubber gloves when cleaning this stuff up! Wipe down all
surfaces and rinse with water. Dispose of all cleaning materials.
 
"Jim Land" <RrrrFfffTttt(NO)@(SPAM)hotmail.com> wrote in message news:Xns98BEDAD02E333RrrrFfffTttt4396hotm@216.168.3.44...
doc@sympatico.ca wrote in news:1169348263.349379.159780@
51g2000cwl.googlegroups.com:

While attempting a home-charge of a set of NiCd batteries, they were
left unattended and consequently exploded (relatively high current was
flowing through them). The basement area in which the explosion took
place is currently being ventilated overnight.

Does anyone have any recommendations for further safety precautions or
clean-up procedures?

The chemicals you're dealing with in a typical Ni-Cad battery are:

Nickel & Nickel Hydroxide
Cadmium & Cadmium Hydroxide
Sodium Hydroxide
Potassium Hydroxide
Cobalt Hydroxide

I would wear rubber gloves when cleaning this stuff up! Wipe down all
surfaces and rinse with water. Dispose of all cleaning materials.
The potassium hydroxide (35%) is the worst component
in NiCd batteries. Rinse splattered areas with as much
water as you can.
 
On 20 Jan 2007 18:48:19 -0800, in misc.consumers.frugal-living "scenario_dave"
<scenario_dave@yahoo.com> wrote:

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
Alan Moorman@visi.com> wrote in message
The 3000 mile myth has been passed on from generation to generation,
even as oils have progressed from single-weight non-detergent oils, to
multi-weight detergent oils.

Maybe in your infinite understanding of such things it's a
myth. However it is printed in black and white in every new
car manual I've gotten in the last 20 years with I bought a
new car.

Most new cars recommend 3000 miles under severe conditions. For normal
use, 7500 is typical today as stated in my GM and Hyundai manuals. I've
been doing that in my cars for years. Works well for my driving conditions.
The oil change places give you that little sticker for 3000 miles under any
condition because they want to sell oil changes.


If you tell people 3000, a lot of them will start thinking about it at
3500 and get around to doing it at 5000 or 6000. If you say 7500, they
get around to it at 10,000 to 12,000. So if the ideal is to change it
at 7,500, your better off saying 3000, so most of the people will
change it before 7,500. Saves a lot of hasle in the long run.

I think 5000 cuz it's easy to see on the odometer but usually procrastinate till
about 7000.
 
Andrew VK3BFA ha escrito:
Rod Speed wrote:
Andrew VK3BFA <ablight@alphalink.com.au> wrote
SMS wrote
clare at snyder.on.ca wrote


Sadly, I do despair at the lack of basic intellectual ability and
elementary social skills of some of my own countrymen - fortunately,
Rod is a special case and beyond being irritating is of no real
consequence in any society. Its like wrestling with a bagful of snakes
- interesting at first as a challenge, but eventually tiring.

Rod has achieved notoriety - his "insults" have been immortalized in
its own website at

http://www.sensationbot.com/chat-rodspeed.html

where you can type in a phrase and get a "Roddism" in return. Saves
time replying to his ravings.
Don´t forget this other website:

http://www.ozdebate.net/rod.html

seems like the guy is a legend. I wonder if he speaks other languages
besides english... if he can annoy the english speaker world, I guess
he will have the talent to show his "gifted skills" in other languages
too.
 
lsmartino <luismartino76@gmail.com> wrote:
Andrew VK3BFA ha escrito:
Rod Speed wrote:
Andrew VK3BFA <ablight@alphalink.com.au> wrote
SMS wrote
clare at snyder.on.ca wrote


Sadly, I do despair at the lack of basic intellectual ability and
elementary social skills of some of my own countrymen - fortunately,
Rod is a special case and beyond being irritating is of no real
consequence in any society. Its like wrestling with a bagful of
snakes - interesting at first as a challenge, but eventually tiring.

Rod has achieved notoriety - his "insults" have been immortalized in
its own website at

http://www.sensationbot.com/chat-rodspeed.html

where you can type in a phrase and get a "Roddism" in return. Saves
time replying to his ravings.


Don´t forget this other website:

http://www.ozdebate.net/rod.html

seems like the guy is a legend.
I am indeed. Eat your heart out, wogchild.

I wonder if he speaks other languages besides english...
Nope, never bothered with the babble you stupid wogs get up to.

if he can annoy the english speaker world,
Just another of your pathetic little drug crazed fantasys, wogchild.

I guess he will have the talent to show his "gifted skills" in other languages too.
Guess again, wogchild.
 
In addition to the other suggestions, if the USB port are V1.0, and the
printer/drivers req USB V2.0, They won't work properly.
JR
moonlite wrote:

Ok, I know this is an old computer but it has been upgraded not long
ago and I use it for very basic stuff like reading discs only. It comes
on and seems to work just fine but the problem I'm having with it is: I
can't get it to work with my printer to print.

Computer: HP Pavilion (has been upgraded with intel chip)
Operating System: Windows 98
Printer: Lexmark Z600

I installed the driver several times so that's not the problem. When I
try to print, I always get a message that printer is not connected to
the correct port...or something like that. The printer's literature
says it must be connected via a USB cable. It is connected just fine
and I have two USB ports on the back of my computer. I tried them both.
When I go into my Device Manager to see to which port the printer is
set to print, I can only find ports COM1 and LPT1. I do not see the USB
port option listed there so I can't choose it and that's where my
problem is - I think. Why isn't the computer seeing my two USB ports ?
What can I do to fix this problem ? I hate to throw away this thing as
it is working just fine otherwise and I use it very little. Thank you
so much for any help.

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
 

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