Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Mark D. Zacharias]

Jim Yanik wrote:

"Dani" <greeben@gmail.com> wrote in
news:1166202238.970293.197790@16g2000cwy.googlegroups.com:

Is there a parts availability law in Canada??


Parts Availability Laws

Can your item be repaired? If parts are required, are they available
to a servicer? In some states, the answer may be "no."

Does your state have a law governing the availability of parts?
Here are the states with such laws:

California:
7 years after date of manufacture for goods with a wholesale value of
$100 or more, 3 years for items valued at $50 to $99.99. This law
covers functional parts only.

Connecticut:
4 years after the date of final sale.

Indiana:
7 years after the date of final sale.

Rhode Island:
4 years after final sale.



Tektronix does not follow any of the above states law on parts
availability,if those are truly law.

Yeah - I think "parts availability laws" are mostly urban legend. Especially
in recent years with everything being made in China or whatever. Often there
aren't even any arrangements made for parts or service when something is
imported. They can just replace it if under warranty, otherwise you're on
your own. That's my experience, anyway.

Mark Z.

 

[Scrim]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ripgh.9691$Z67.6992@trndny02...

Scrim wrote:
meow2222@care2.com> wrote in message
news:1165988563.308387.127980@j72g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Homer J Simpson wrote:

"Scrim" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:Qxzfh.64620$Pk.18615@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk...

Included amongst the components on the small PCB mounted on the end of
the
CRT are (what look exactly like) four wire ended neon lamps. I don't
have
much CRT experience, but still, was surprised to see these. The
service
manual refers to them as SG001 to SG301. For example, "SG001
1-519-422-11
SPARK GAP". Anyway, I haven't seen any light up, but they all have very
dark glass envelopes from internal electrode evaporation.
Can anyone:
Tell me what these Neon Bulbs are for?

They are spark gaps.

Seems a bit strange they all have darkened glass.


NT



Thanks for your thoughts folks.
The service manual is here:
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/17886/Sony_GDM-F520.html

You can see the 'neons' or Spark Gaps at the top right of the diagram on
page 30, located around the CRT base.

Before I took the case off, when I had the intermittent blur problem with
this monitor, occasionally I'd hear an electrical discharge (crack!) and
the focus would recover or at least change.
Googling I've found this, which was posted at this newsgroup earlier this
year:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/d000b23669cfa864/225f9ba99b385945?lnk=st&q=+%22The+device+that+is+sparking+is+a+sealed+glass+bulb.%22&rnum=1&hl=en#225f9ba99b385945

This certainly sounds similar to what I'm describing, although another
model is involved.

Any further advice gratefully received,

Scrim




My G520 loses focus occasionally too and a power cycle fixes it. I got rid
of a similar model last year that would do the same thing, been doing it
for years and hasn't gotten any more frequent. Someone told me it was a
fault within the CRTs.

Thanks for the help so far.
The intermittent fault has finally shown up again, perhaps because of the
colder weather last night.

First it blurred: I started prodding around in the back with a long glass
rod. I tried tapping the tube, tube end pcb, focus leads and the focus
adjust side of flyback transformer unit, to no avail.
The blurred focus cleared itself after a while, but later there were a
series of pops from the back accompanied by momentary collapses of the
screens image. I have no idea where the pops came from. If I knew this was
an insoluble tube problem I'd just give up, but, at best, this is such a
good monitor I'm still holding out for the chance it's reparable.
Any ideas how I could pin down the problem or eliminate any suspects?
Thanks

Scrim

 

[Fastvale]

"umberto" <umberto.viano@gmail.com> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:1166251034.889322.181790@n67g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...

http://www.webalice.it/umbertoweb

Umbe' lassace in pace, fa' il bravo!

 

[Dani]

I think the manual is too big to send easily! Check the tiny pico
fuses. They are likely green in color. They are all over the main
board. Dani.






greg@frontierus.com wrote:

Toshiba TP55F81 Full Service Manual Needed. Have replaced the
convergence IC's and the Tv still goes into protect mode and
shutsdown. Any input on this situation that I am having would
greatly be appreciated. If someone has access to the full service
manual I would be very greatful.



--
--------------------------------- --- -- -
Posted with NewsLeecher v3.8 Beta 6
Web @ http://www.newsleecher.com/?usenet
------------------- ----- ---- -- -

 

[Homer J Simpson]

"Mark D. Zacharias" <spammenot@nonsense.net> wrote in message
newsrRgh.9814$hI.7881@newssvr11.news.prodigy.net...

Yeah - I think "parts availability laws" are mostly urban legend.
Especially in recent years with everything being made in China or
whatever. Often there aren't even any arrangements made for parts or
service when something is imported. They can just replace it if under
warranty, otherwise you're on your own. That's my experience, anyway.

And the crap that is returned to them they resell on in pallet loads where
it all winds up on eBay. "As is" or "I didn't have time to check if it
works" are eBay phrases which mean "If you buy it you're boned".

 

[N Cook]

Nick <nick~newsaccount@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:SridnQYmiOGt0RnYnZ2dnUVZ8tSdnZ2d@bt.com...

My Gould scope has died, it seems that the EHT supply has died. This is a
2.5kV rail supplied from a 950V secondary and a charge pump. The diodes
appear to be blown (I set my variable PSU current limit to 20mA then wound
up the voltage to measure Vf - the PSU goes up to 30V, there can't be THAT
many junctions in a package 10mm long!)

The scope manual lists them as "IJK60TR 6kV"

Some Googling suggests FM50 or SL1200, but I can't find them either. In
fact
diodes with this voltage rating seem quite rare. I know I could stack some
lower voltage diodes (and bleed resistors) but space is a bit limited.

Can anyone suggest a replacement, or supplier in the UK?

Thanks
Nick

Don't replace with seriesed high current diodes, part of the function of
these diodes seems to be a fuse to protect transformer over-windings from
downstream problems.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Baron]

Nick wrote:

My Gould scope has died, it seems that the EHT supply has died. This
is a 2.5kV rail supplied from a 950V secondary and a charge pump.
The diodes appear to be blown (I set my variable PSU current limit
to 20mA then wound up the voltage to measure Vf - the PSU goes up to
30V, there can't be THAT many junctions in a package 10mm long!)

The scope manual lists them as "IJK60TR 6kV"

Some Googling suggests FM50 or SL1200, but I can't find them either.
In fact diodes with this voltage rating seem quite rare. I know I
could stack some lower voltage diodes (and bleed resistors) but
space is a bit limited.

Can anyone suggest a replacement, or supplier in the UK?

Thanks
Nick

That IJK60TR part no: sounds a bit microwave oven'ish.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

 

[t w]

"Nick" <nick~newsaccount@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:SridnQYmiOGt0RnYnZ2dnUVZ8tSdnZ2d@bt.com...

My Gould scope has died, it seems that the EHT supply has died. This is a
2.5kV rail supplied from a 950V secondary and a charge pump. The diodes
appear to be blown (I set my variable PSU current limit to 20mA then wound
up the voltage to measure Vf - the PSU goes up to 30V, there can't be THAT
many junctions in a package 10mm long!)

The scope manual lists them as "IJK60TR 6kV"
Try MARK5

Some Googling suggests FM50 or SL1200, but I can't find them either. In
fact
diodes with this voltage rating seem quite rare. I know I could stack some
lower voltage diodes (and bleed resistors) but space is a bit limited.

Can anyone suggest a replacement, or supplier in the UK?

Thanks
Nick

 

[t w]

"Nick" <nick~newsaccount@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:SridnQYmiOGt0RnYnZ2dnUVZ8tSdnZ2d@bt.com...

My Gould scope has died, it seems that the EHT supply has died. This is a
2.5kV rail supplied from a 950V secondary and a charge pump. The diodes
appear to be blown (I set my variable PSU current limit to 20mA then wound
up the voltage to measure Vf - the PSU goes up to 30V, there can't be THAT
many junctions in a package 10mm long!)

The scope manual lists them as "IJK60TR 6kV"

Some Googling suggests FM50 or SL1200, but I can't find them either. In
fact
diodes with this voltage rating seem quite rare. I know I could stack some
lower voltage diodes (and bleed resistors) but space is a bit limited.

Can anyone suggest a replacement, or supplier in the UK?

Thanks
Nick
Try MARK5

 

[Charles Schuler]

"Steve" <skamego@hotmaill.com> wrote in message
news:9sb6o21mhn7toflq120bc0c13p8a78jepr@4ax.com...

Thanks for the replies. This circuit only uses trimmer caps for the
tuned amplifier (further down the circuit, not for the feedback loop),
and coils for the frequency adjustment. Had this unit used trimmer
caps, could you assume the load capacitance would be close to the
mid-range value of the trimmer cap, or is that a bad assumption?

I guess it just depends on the circuit.

Are there any general accepted values for xtals in terms of load
capacitance specifications?

Typical values are between 9 - 32 pF; with 18 - 20 pF being the most common.



Steve: Have you checked any of these references?

http://www.maxim-ic.com/appnotes.cfm/appnote_number/726/
http://www.raltron.com/cust/tools/appnotes/Crystal%20Mini%20Primer%20-%20Part%201.pdf
http://www.ecliptek.com/crystals/glossary.html
http://rfdesign.com/mag/radio_piercegate_oscillator_crystal/

 

[MikeC]

Folks,

Thanks to all who responded. I read Sam's FAQ (and got pretty interested in
his work on lasers, and will probably order Dr. Shawn's science CD), and
took the "take the cover off and clean it" advice. In fact, I found (going
by the burn marks) that it had been arcing from the top of the waveguide to
the bottom. There is a U-section welded to the top of the oven to form the
box-section waveguide, which is angled down into the oven at about 45
degrees at its end. The end of this 45 degree section meets the far end of
the aperture where the UHF goes into the oven (the aperture that is covered
by the mica plate), and above the leading edge of the aperture, there is a
round bump on the inside top of the waveguide about 1/2" high and with a
diameter of an inch or so. It has been pressed in from the outside of the
waveguide, and presumably, it disperses the microwaves to fill the inside of
the oven. The highest point of the bump is directly above the leading edge
of the aperture, and it appears that the arcing was between those two
points. The mica cover was half-way burned through at the point where the
arc was hitting the edge of the aperture hole.

I've cleaned it up - though there didn't seem to be much to clean. I was
expecting that the arcing would be through a film of muck - but it appears
to have been across half an inch of open space.

Regards to all,

MikeC





"MikeC" <My_address@end.of.post> wrote in message
news:HqBgh.10260$UC.9477@newsfe5-win.ntli.net...

Folks,

I'm not sure if this isn't a bit banale for this group, so please direct
me elsewhere if I'm in the wrong place.

My microwave oven has lasted quite a long time (it must be heading for its
10th birthday). In the top of it, there is what appears to be a mica
window through which the UHF arrives. Intermittently (but getting more
frequently) it produces, on the magnetron side of this window, what looks,
smells and sounds like arcing - like a welding set. The light comes
through the mica window and lights up the inside of the oven quite
brightly. It arcs for two or three seconds then stops, and may start
again after 10 seconds. The problem has been there, then disappeared for
three weeks, but it's back at the moment.

I haven't taken it to bits yet, but can anybody tell me if they have had
the same experience, and whether it is even worth dismantling.
--
Mental decryption required to bamboozle spam robots:

mike_best$ntlworld*com
$ = @
* = dot

 

[Arfa Daily]

<jrgreene1968@suddenlink.net> wrote in message
news:1166295094.094869.311800@j72g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Hello, i have a problem with a 3801 denon receiver, ..I bought this
receiver from a guy on the internet, said to be in exellent shape, when
it arrived, i plugged it in and it will not do anything, no display, no
standby light, no click when you hit power switch nothing. I have
checked all 7 fuses on the receiver with an ohm meter, they are all ok.
checked voltage where power cord plugs into board, shows 120 volts, if
you unplug receiver and checked switched outlet on back of receiver,
the outles show open with ohm meter, unplug yellow and white wire on
transformer to board and now switched outlets are no longer reading
open....does this sound like a power transformer, any way to test?

I don't understand your assertion that the switched outlet reads "open" with
an ohm meter, then doesn't when the white / yellow lead is unplugged. Are
you sure you don't mean that you read a short, or at least a low reading,
when the plug is in, and then an open when it is unplugged ? That situation
works, as the back panel socket, will be connected in parallel with the
power transformer primary, which is itself switched via a relay. The fact
that you do read this low value ( I believe ) would indicate that the
primary of the main tx is ok. As the seller said that the unit was ok, I
would suspect that it might have taken a knock in transport, and you should
be looking for fractured print on the power input board, particularly where
any pins from the transformers are connected. I have seen this many times.
Examine all print around the power input and transformers very carefully
with a magnifying glass if necessary. I'm willing to bet you will find your
problem quickly, if you know what you are looking for.

Arfa

 

[ian field]

"MikeC" <My_address@end.of.post> wrote in message

Incidentally, it isn't mica. It's some sort of manufactured material, but
it's grey like Mica.

If the waveguide window is some sort of plastic it shouldn't de-laminate so
take it out and scrub it clean and inspect it for any carbonised points -
these can be scraped off with a sharp blade.

 

[MikeC]

"MikeC" <My_address@end.of.post> wrote in message
news:klZgh.11900$KT2.11894@newsfe2-win.ntli.net...

Folks,

I was expecting that the arcing would be through a film of muck - but it
appears to have been across half an inch of open space.

I've just measured the distance, and in fact, it's a little over an inch.
Would you expect to see an arc over this distance? The top of the bump had
the paint burned off, as had the edge of the aperture hole, so it suggests
an arc between those points. As I said originally, it made a light like a
welding set, though, of course, the mica window was in place, so I didn't
see the arc itself.

Incidentally, it isn't mica. It's some sort of manufactured material, but
it's grey like Mica.

Regards,

MikeC

Regards to all,

MikeC





"MikeC" <My_address@end.of.post> wrote in message
news:HqBgh.10260$UC.9477@newsfe5-win.ntli.net...
Folks,

I'm not sure if this isn't a bit banale for this group, so please direct
me elsewhere if I'm in the wrong place.

My microwave oven has lasted quite a long time (it must be heading for
its 10th birthday). In the top of it, there is what appears to be a mica
window through which the UHF arrives. Intermittently (but getting more
frequently) it produces, on the magnetron side of this window, what
looks, smells and sounds like arcing - like a welding set. The light
comes through the mica window and lights up the inside of the oven quite
brightly. It arcs for two or three seconds then stops, and may start
again after 10 seconds. The problem has been there, then disappeared for
three weeks, but it's back at the moment.

I haven't taken it to bits yet, but can anybody tell me if they have had
the same experience, and whether it is even worth dismantling.
--
Mental decryption required to bamboozle spam robots:

mike_best$ntlworld*com
$ = @
* = dot

 

[JR]

Arfa Daily wrote:

jrgreene1968@suddenlink.net> wrote in message
news:1166295094.094869.311800@j72g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Hello, i have a problem with a 3801 denon receiver, ..I bought this
receiver from a guy on the internet, said to be in exellent shape, when
it arrived, i plugged it in and it will not do anything, no display, no
standby light, no click when you hit power switch nothing. I have
checked all 7 fuses on the receiver with an ohm meter, they are all ok.
checked voltage where power cord plugs into board, shows 120 volts, if
you unplug receiver and checked switched outlet on back of receiver,
the outles show open with ohm meter, unplug yellow and white wire on
transformer to board and now switched outlets are no longer reading
open....does this sound like a power transformer, any way to test?


I don't understand your assertion that the switched outlet reads "open" with
an ohm meter, then doesn't when the white / yellow lead is unplugged. Are
you sure you don't mean that you read a short, or at least a low reading,
when the plug is in, and then an open when it is unplugged ? That situation
works, as the back panel socket, will be connected in parallel with the
power transformer primary, which is itself switched via a relay. The fact
that you do read this low value ( I believe ) would indicate that the
primary of the main tx is ok. As the seller said that the unit was ok, I
would suspect that it might have taken a knock in transport, and you should
be looking for fractured print on the power input board, particularly where
any pins from the transformers are connected. I have seen this many times.
Examine all print around the power input and transformers very carefully
with a magnifying glass if necessary. I'm willing to bet you will find your
problem quickly, if you know what you are looking for.

well i have looked it over some more...still havent found much...looked
for fractured print, no luck yet. I did get the dmm back out, to check
voltages...not getting volatge anywhere on the board exept where the
power cord it plugging into board, checked for voltage at the 2 main
fuses..nothing, checked for voltage on every wire on power transformer,
nothing there either

Thanks in advance
> Arfa

 

[Cheemag]

On Sat, 16 Dec 2006 20:45:34 GMT, "t w" <tw100uk@ntlworld.com> wrote:

"Nick" <nick~newsaccount@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:SridnQYmiOGt0RnYnZ2dnUVZ8tSdnZ2d@bt.com...
My Gould scope has died, it seems that the EHT supply has died. This is a
2.5kV rail supplied from a 950V secondary and a charge pump. The diodes
appear to be blown (I set my variable PSU current limit to 20mA then wound
up the voltage to measure Vf - the PSU goes up to 30V, there can't be THAT
many junctions in a package 10mm long!)

The scope manual lists them as "IJK60TR 6kV"

Some Googling suggests FM50 or SL1200, but I can't find them either. In
fact
diodes with this voltage rating seem quite rare. I know I could stack some
lower voltage diodes (and bleed resistors) but space is a bit limited.

Can anyone suggest a replacement, or supplier in the UK?

Try MARK5

He meant to say: http://www.mark5.co.uk/search.php

Search for 'rectifier'. Pages of 'em; all sorts of voltages .....

--

73,
Jim, G4RGA

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Sat, 16 Dec 2006 19:02:40 GMT, "ian field" <dai.ode@ntlworld.com>
put finger to keyboard and composed:

"Dave" <dspear99ca@yahoo.delete.com> wrote in message
news:ENCgh.66540$YV4.14857@edtnps89...

"MikeC" <My_address@end.of.post> wrote in message
news:HqBgh.10260$UC.9477@newsfe5-win.ntli.net...
Folks,
Intermittently (but getting more frequently)
it produces, on the magnetron side of this window, what looks, smells and
sounds like arcing - like a welding set. The light comes through the
mica window and lights up the inside of the oven quite brightly. It arcs
for two or three seconds then stops, and may start again after 10
seconds. The problem has been there, then disappeared for three weeks,
but it's back at the moment.

The inside of the plastic cover gets dirty over time. When there's enough
gunk built up, arcing can and does occur. Remove, clean, replace.


The OP said its mica, these tend to de-laminate so they're impossible to
clean adequately to prevent future occurrence of arcing.

Often the only solution is to remove the mica and throw it away - then hope
the oven lasts long enough without any food splattering into the waveguide
to save up for a new oven.

Here in Australia we can buy sheets of the stuff:
http://www.wagner.net.au/Catalogue/10_10.pdf

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

 

[t w]

"Cheemag" <cheemag2006@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:gjt8o2hf0utum9dd68de6pq2oevhrq96ee@4ax.com...

On Sat, 16 Dec 2006 20:45:34 GMT, "t w" <tw100uk@ntlworld.com> wrote:


"Nick" <nick~newsaccount@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:SridnQYmiOGt0RnYnZ2dnUVZ8tSdnZ2d@bt.com...
My Gould scope has died, it seems that the EHT supply has died. This is
a
2.5kV rail supplied from a 950V secondary and a charge pump. The diodes
appear to be blown (I set my variable PSU current limit to 20mA then
wound
up the voltage to measure Vf - the PSU goes up to 30V, there can't be
THAT
many junctions in a package 10mm long!)

The scope manual lists them as "IJK60TR 6kV"

Some Googling suggests FM50 or SL1200, but I can't find them either. In
fact
diodes with this voltage rating seem quite rare. I know I could stack
some
lower voltage diodes (and bleed resistors) but space is a bit limited.

Can anyone suggest a replacement, or supplier in the UK?

Try MARK5

He meant to say: http://www.mark5.co.uk/search.php

Search for 'rectifier'. Pages of 'em; all sorts of voltages .....
Sorry & yes. I've found them very helpful

--

73,
Jim, G4RGA

 

[JR]

JR wrote:

Arfa Daily wrote:
jrgreene1968@suddenlink.net> wrote in message
news:1166295094.094869.311800@j72g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Hello, i have a problem with a 3801 denon receiver, ..I bought this
receiver from a guy on the internet, said to be in exellent shape, when
it arrived, i plugged it in and it will not do anything, no display, no
standby light, no click when you hit power switch nothing. I have
checked all 7 fuses on the receiver with an ohm meter, they are all ok.
checked voltage where power cord plugs into board, shows 120 volts, if
you unplug receiver and checked switched outlet on back of receiver,
the outles show open with ohm meter, unplug yellow and white wire on
transformer to board and now switched outlets are no longer reading
open....does this sound like a power transformer, any way to test?


I don't understand your assertion that the switched outlet reads "open" with
an ohm meter, then doesn't when the white / yellow lead is unplugged. Are
you sure you don't mean that you read a short, or at least a low reading,
when the plug is in, and then an open when it is unplugged ? That situation
works, as the back panel socket, will be connected in parallel with the
power transformer primary, which is itself switched via a relay. The fact
that you do read this low value ( I believe ) would indicate that the
primary of the main tx is ok. As the seller said that the unit was ok, I
would suspect that it might have taken a knock in transport, and you should
be looking for fractured print on the power input board, particularly where
any pins from the transformers are connected. I have seen this many times.
Examine all print around the power input and transformers very carefully
with a magnifying glass if necessary. I'm willing to bet you will find your
problem quickly, if you know what you are looking for.






well i have looked it over some more...still havent found much...looked
for fractured print, no luck yet. I did get the dmm back out, to check
voltages...not getting volatge anywhere on the board exept where the
power cord it plugging into board, checked for voltage at the 2 main
fuses..nothing, checked for voltage on every wire on power transformer,
nothing there either

Thanks in advance
Arfa

if i unplug the yellow and white wires from transformer, i then have
voltage at main fuses, plug the connector back in, no voltage at fuses,
also there is 2 red and 1 black wires on transformer...checking between
the red and black shows shorted, the guy i bought it from said he heard
a pop when it quit, and he supposedly replaced fuses....

 

[Arfa Daily]

"JR" <jrgreene1968@suddenlink.net> wrote in message
news:1166313262.291432.119880@80g2000cwy.googlegroups.com...

JR wrote:
Arfa Daily wrote:
jrgreene1968@suddenlink.net> wrote in message
news:1166295094.094869.311800@j72g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Hello, i have a problem with a 3801 denon receiver, ..I bought this
receiver from a guy on the internet, said to be in exellent shape,
when
it arrived, i plugged it in and it will not do anything, no display,
no
standby light, no click when you hit power switch nothing. I have
checked all 7 fuses on the receiver with an ohm meter, they are all
ok.
checked voltage where power cord plugs into board, shows 120 volts,
if
you unplug receiver and checked switched outlet on back of receiver,
the outles show open with ohm meter, unplug yellow and white wire on
transformer to board and now switched outlets are no longer reading
open....does this sound like a power transformer, any way to test?


I don't understand your assertion that the switched outlet reads "open"
with
an ohm meter, then doesn't when the white / yellow lead is unplugged.
Are
you sure you don't mean that you read a short, or at least a low
reading,
when the plug is in, and then an open when it is unplugged ? That
situation
works, as the back panel socket, will be connected in parallel with the
power transformer primary, which is itself switched via a relay. The
fact
that you do read this low value ( I believe ) would indicate that the
primary of the main tx is ok. As the seller said that the unit was ok,
I
would suspect that it might have taken a knock in transport, and you
should
be looking for fractured print on the power input board, particularly
where
any pins from the transformers are connected. I have seen this many
times.
Examine all print around the power input and transformers very
carefully
with a magnifying glass if necessary. I'm willing to bet you will find
your
problem quickly, if you know what you are looking for.






well i have looked it over some more...still havent found much...looked
for fractured print, no luck yet. I did get the dmm back out, to check
voltages...not getting volatge anywhere on the board exept where the
power cord it plugging into board, checked for voltage at the 2 main
fuses..nothing, checked for voltage on every wire on power transformer,
nothing there either

Thanks in advance
Arfa


if i unplug the yellow and white wires from transformer, i then have
voltage at main fuses, plug the connector back in, no voltage at fuses,
also there is 2 red and 1 black wires on transformer...checking between
the red and black shows shorted, the guy i bought it from said he heard
a pop when it quit, and he supposedly replaced fuses....

Ah, then it's not quite as straightforward as you originally implied. I got
the impression that the guy who sold it was saying that it was working when
it left him. I am not liking the sound of popping coming from it. I can make
no sense of the voltage readings you appear to be getting. The system is
straightforward enough if it's the model I think it is. As far as I
remember, there is a standby supply which powers the system micro, and
provides a supply for a relay, which is driven by a power on signal from
said micro. The relay switches power to the primary of the main power
transformer. It is quite common for the thermal fuse in the primary of the
main power transformer to fail, but the symptoms of that are that the unit
powers on, in as much as the relay will click, but nothing else happens, no
display, no sound, nothing. You need to determine if the standby supply is
established, and if not, why not. The incoming power lead should be
connected almost directly to the standby tx primary.

Arfa