Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Roy. Just Roy.]

Round-up these third-world cretins

You STILL haven't said how you are going to tell an American Hispanic
from an illegal alien.

http://www.papersplease.org/ Identity Project

" The right of the people to be secure in their persons, houses,
papers, and effects, against unreasonable searches and seizures, shall
not be violated"
-Fourth Amendment, US Constitution

You CANNOT ask someone for his ID simply because he looks Mexican.

/Roy

 

[T]

I find it humorous that we find out near weekly that our civil liberties
are
being further eroded, and all we can do is complain about illegal
immigrants.

The immigration issue is just the shiny object that the Republicans are
using to distract stupid Americans from the corruption and incompetence of
the administration.

 

[Jim Higgins]

"T" <tla@eskimo.com> wrote in message
news:e44obu$cfe$1@eskinews.eskimo.com...

I find it humorous that we find out near weekly that our civil liberties
are
being further eroded, and all we can do is complain about illegal
immigrants.


The immigration issue is just the shiny object that the Republicans are
using to distract stupid Americans from the corruption and incompetence of
the administration.

And the Democrat's Teddy "Chappaquiddick" Kennedy will lead us to
enlightenment? Nancy "Vinegar Face" Pelosi? John "doofus" Kerry? Dems are
real short on credible candidates and this is the party that turned its back
on its base-just like the Republicrats. The late George Meany of the
AFL-CIO (currently the MFL-CIO, "M" for Mexican) is reputed to have said of
the Democratic Party "The party of blood, sweat and tears has become the
party of dope, sex and queers".

The Democrats are no better than the Republicrats.

 

[John McWilliams]

Jim Higgins wrote:

"T" <tla@eskimo.com> wrote in message
news:e44obu$cfe$1@eskinews.eskimo.com...
I find it humorous that we find out near weekly that our civil liberties
are
being further eroded, and all we can do is complain about illegal
immigrants.

The immigration issue is just the shiny object that the Republicans are
using to distract stupid Americans from the corruption and incompetence of
the administration.


And the Democrat's Teddy "Chappaquiddick" Kennedy will lead us to
enlightenment? Nancy "Vinegar Face" Pelosi? John "doofus" Kerry? Dems are
real short on credible candidates and this is the party that turned its back
on its base-just like the Republicrats. The late George Meany of the
AFL-CIO (currently the MFL-CIO, "M" for Mexican) is reputed to have said of
the Democratic Party "The party of blood, sweat and tears has become the
party of dope, sex and queers".

The Democrats are no better than the Republicrats.


Oh, so true. One n da same.

f-u set.

--
lsmft

 

[sigmma]

Hi I have a Sony KV 29SZ1, (Perth Australia) with a ticking or clicking
noise, no picture and no sound. It looks like at this stage the problem
is in a fuse, my question is how can you tell which one it is, I can
hear the thing ticking away but I just can't locate it (I have removed
the TV cover)...


I have a Sony KV 29SZ1 that has a blown HOT. It is owned by my
apprentice who doesn't have a great deal of cash to throw around, so I
told him to bring it into work and we would have a go at fixing it.

The fault was simple, would not turn on. I opened it up and put the
meter across B+ - 0v. I could also hear it ticking. So the first thing
I did was pull out the HOT and test it, sure enough it was SC. I sent
the the young fella out to buy a new HOT which turned out to be AU$30.

So, the question I ask is: Is there in easy way to tell if the LOPT is
the reason the HOT has failed? I don't really want to put the new part
in if it is going to blow straight away. I was thinking about putting
it in and bringing up the power slowly from a variac. Will this help?

TAI,

AP[/i Wrote:

--
sigmma

 

[sofie]

sigmma:
No offence intended, but based on your inquiry you would be best advised to
IMMJEDIATELY replace the TV cover and at the very least TAKE it to a repair
shop for a repair cost estimate by a tech that has actually opened er up and
performed some technical troubleshooting and testing so you can make an
intelligent repair decision with facts instead of wild guesses.
The insides of televisions are a dangerous place.... if you want to research
this further you should go to the website for this newsgroup at
http://www.repairfaq.org/
there with some searching you will find a wealth of repair data and
IMPORTANT SAFETY information.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"sigmma" <sigmma.27wmvv@diybanter.com> wrote in message

Hi I have a Sony KV 29SZ1, (Perth Australia) with a ticking or clicking
noise, no picture and no sound. It looks like at this stage the problem
is in a fuse, my question is how can you tell which one it is, I can
hear the thing ticking away but I just can't locate it (I have removed
the TV cover)...
sigmma

 

[ian field]

"sigmma" <sigmma.27wmvv@diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:sigmma.27wmvv@diybanter.com...

Hi I have a Sony KV 29SZ1, (Perth Australia) with a ticking or clicking
noise, no picture and no sound. It looks like at this stage the problem
is in a fuse, my question is how can you tell which one it is, I can
hear the thing ticking away but I just can't locate it (I have removed
the TV cover)...


I have a Sony KV 29SZ1 that has a blown HOT. It is owned by my
apprentice who doesn't have a great deal of cash to throw around, so I
told him to bring it into work and we would have a go at fixing it.

The fault was simple, would not turn on. I opened it up and put the
meter across B+ - 0v. I could also hear it ticking. So the first thing
I did was pull out the HOT and test it, sure enough it was SC. I sent
the the young fella out to buy a new HOT which turned out to be AU$30.

So, the question I ask is: Is there in easy way to tell if the LOPT is
the reason the HOT has failed? I don't really want to put the new part
in if it is going to blow straight away. I was thinking about putting
it in and bringing up the power slowly from a variac. Will this help?

TAI,

AP[/i Wrote:
[/color]


--
sigmma

Replace the H-transistor, but do not solder the collector terminal - route
this via a 60W bulb which will limit the current if the LOPT has shorted
turns. If this arrangement fails to develop a voltage across the LOPT
primary - don't despair, it could be a S/C rectifier for a scan derived
supply, just follow the tracks away from the LOPT and look for diodes to
test. Another common cause of H-transistor failure is the flybak tuning
capacitor - this is often a disc-ceramic type (normally go S/C and
split/burn!) the regular high voltage wound foil types commonly fail O/C and
allow the peak flyback voltage to exceed the H-transistor's Vceo!

Caution - examine the flyback tuning caps first - the current limiting lamp
won't protect the transistor from excessive flyback if it fires up!!!

 

[nkm490]

Mark D. Zacharias Wrote:

"Mark D. Zacharias" spammenot@nonsense.net wrote in message news:...

"tvguy" no@spam.invalid wrote in message
newsmdMf.248293$c31.218947@fe08.news.easynews.com...
I really don`t think sony is going to fix this for free. They can be
a real pain to try to get something from them. You will need to pay
the shipping on this both ways and they will try to sell you a
reconditioned one and take yours as a trade in. I would sugest to try
to find a repairshop in your area where you can take it in to have it
serviced.


Problem is, and I say this as an authorized Sony servicer, the
HCD-GX250
and 450 models are so bad

snip

Update:

It is beginning to appear that cleaning / reseating the front panel
connectors -mainly the big one- may fix these units for their variety
of
unusual problems (no power, front LED blinking, tray cycling, no
audio,
etc). Seems to have fixed a couple lately - but of course they could
still
come back for re-do's. Recommend Caig Red (non-aerosol) - I think it's
the
D-100 - for treating the contacts. Blows my mind that new units with
new,
really, really tight connectors could have these problems, but there
you
are. Requires a major dissassembly to access the connector at the
front
panel side.


Mark Z.

Sorry, but before I start taking the player apart to clean the front
connectors I just wanted to make sure what the front connectors are.
Just to be sure: The front conectors are the RCA ports (yellow, red,
white) where I would plug a gaming system in?

My particular problem is the system quitting while playing and then the
power LED blinks. After I unplug it and plug it back in it works again
for a random amount of time. Sony's website would lead me to believe
that the system is overheating.

One thing that I have done with this system is extend the speaker wires
so that I can place the speakers on both sides of my basement. The left
speaker wire is about 30 ft long and the right one about 15 ft long.
It's worked fine for a year and now this happens about 3 weeks after
the extended warranty ends!

Thanks for any further clarification you can provide and any other tips
that might be useful for a beginner.

Thanks.


--
nkm490

 

[Ray Fischer]

Jim Higgins <gordian238@hotmail.com> wrote:

"T" <tla@eskimo.com> wrote in message

The immigration issue is just the shiny object that the Republicans are
using to distract stupid Americans from the corruption and incompetence of
the administration.

And the Democrat's Teddy "Chappaquiddick" Kennedy will lead us to

Typical neocon bigot - whines about events that happened decades ago
to justify the corruption and incompetance of his own cult.

--
Ray Fischer
rfischer@sonic.net

 

[Art]

Also resolder theconnections of the LOPT, H-Driver Transformer, and Driver
Transistor. Seen way too many of their sets with funky solder conections
around those areas. Loss of drive can cause the output to blow.
"ian field" <dai.ode@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:8Ssag.493$kc6.427@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...

"sigmma" <sigmma.27wmvv@diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:sigmma.27wmvv@diybanter.com...

Hi I have a Sony KV 29SZ1, (Perth Australia) with a ticking or clicking
noise, no picture and no sound. It looks like at this stage the problem
is in a fuse, my question is how can you tell which one it is, I can
hear the thing ticking away but I just can't locate it (I have removed
the TV cover)...


I have a Sony KV 29SZ1 that has a blown HOT. It is owned by my
apprentice who doesn't have a great deal of cash to throw around, so I
told him to bring it into work and we would have a go at fixing it.

The fault was simple, would not turn on. I opened it up and put the
meter across B+ - 0v. I could also hear it ticking. So the first thing
I did was pull out the HOT and test it, sure enough it was SC. I sent
the the young fella out to buy a new HOT which turned out to be AU$30.

So, the question I ask is: Is there in easy way to tell if the LOPT is
the reason the HOT has failed? I don't really want to put the new part
in if it is going to blow straight away. I was thinking about putting
it in and bringing up the power slowly from a variac. Will this help?

TAI,

AP[/i Wrote:
[/color]


--
sigmma

Replace the H-transistor, but do not solder the collector terminal - route
this via a 60W bulb which will limit the current if the LOPT has shorted
turns. If this arrangement fails to develop a voltage across the LOPT
primary - don't despair, it could be a S/C rectifier for a scan derived
supply, just follow the tracks away from the LOPT and look for diodes to
test. Another common cause of H-transistor failure is the flybak tuning
capacitor - this is often a disc-ceramic type (normally go S/C and
split/burn!) the regular high voltage wound foil types commonly fail O/C
and allow the peak flyback voltage to exceed the H-transistor's Vceo!

Caution - examine the flyback tuning caps first - the current limiting
lamp won't protect the transistor from excessive flyback if it fires up!!!

 

[Jason D.]

On Tue, 16 May 2006 23:02:28 GMT, "ian field" <dai.ode@ntlworld.com>
wrote:

"sigmma" <sigmma.27wmvv@diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:sigmma.27wmvv@diybanter.com...

sigmma

Replace the H-transistor, but do not solder the collector terminal - route
this via a 60W bulb which will limit the current if the LOPT has shorted
turns. If this arrangement fails to develop a voltage across the LOPT
primary - don't despair, it could be a S/C rectifier for a scan derived
supply, just follow the tracks away from the LOPT and look for diodes to
test. Another common cause of H-transistor failure is the flybak tuning
capacitor - this is often a disc-ceramic type (normally go S/C and
split/burn!) the regular high voltage wound foil types commonly fail O/C and
allow the peak flyback voltage to exceed the H-transistor's Vceo!

Caution - examine the flyback tuning caps first - the current limiting lamp
won't protect the transistor from excessive flyback if it fires up!!!


Good question on that HV caps in horizontal circuit, what is the

method of checking them? I have capacitance meter but I know better
not to trust that, cap could fail under load (even instantly) and pass
a cap meter test?

Cheers, Wizard

 

[Jaycotoy]

Con Saris Wrote:

Can any body help me witha strange fault in a Sharp TV Austalian Model
SX68E7. This set was given to me to keep and I wouod like to fix it if
possible. My background is in Audio repair and I have dabbled in TV
repairs
as well.
The Chassis is a Sharp type 25A
The fault is that the picture including the on screen display is blurry
and
out of focus. I have tried adjusting the focus pot on the Flyback Tx
but
that would be too easy and it made no difference.
Has anyone seen this fault before? Does it require a replacement
Flyback Tx
or can you help me with the repair?
I appreciate any help you can give me

Thanks
Con

Hi Con,
Your enquiry was dated Dec 2003 so by now it is probably ancient
history but the fault sounds file poor filtering of the focus grid
control voltage. I don't know how to fix though without a circuit. The
reason for contacting you is to ask if you still have the user manual.
We accidentally threw ours out with the old newspapers recently and I
can't remember how to tune in new channels so when I did a Google
search your post came up. Can you help with instructions on tuning new
channels or perhaps scan the relevant pages and email to me at
creativetouch@satcom.net.au
Thanks, Bob.


--
Jaycotoy

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

nkm490 wrote:

Mark D. Zacharias Wrote:
"Mark D. Zacharias" spammenot@nonsense.net wrote in message news:...

"tvguy" no@spam.invalid wrote in message
newsmdMf.248293$c31.218947@fe08.news.easynews.com...
I really don`t think sony is going to fix this for free. They can be
a real pain to try to get something from them. You will need to pay
the shipping on this both ways and they will try to sell you a
reconditioned one and take yours as a trade in. I would sugest to try
to find a repairshop in your area where you can take it in to have it
serviced.


Problem is, and I say this as an authorized Sony servicer, the
HCD-GX250
and 450 models are so bad

snip

Update:

It is beginning to appear that cleaning / reseating the front panel
connectors -mainly the big one- may fix these units for their variety
of
unusual problems (no power, front LED blinking, tray cycling, no
audio,
etc). Seems to have fixed a couple lately - but of course they could
still
come back for re-do's. Recommend Caig Red (non-aerosol) - I think
it's the
D-100 - for treating the contacts. Blows my mind that new units with
new,
really, really tight connectors could have these problems, but there
you
are. Requires a major dissassembly to access the connector at the
front
panel side.


Mark Z.

Sorry, but before I start taking the player apart to clean the front
connectors I just wanted to make sure what the front connectors are.
Just to be sure: The front conectors are the RCA ports (yellow, red,
white) where I would plug a gaming system in?

My particular problem is the system quitting while playing and then
the power LED blinks. After I unplug it and plug it back in it works
again for a random amount of time. Sony's website would lead me to
believe that the system is overheating.

One thing that I have done with this system is extend the speaker
wires so that I can place the speakers on both sides of my basement.
The left speaker wire is about 30 ft long and the right one about 15
ft long. It's worked fine for a year and now this happens about 3
weeks after the extended warranty ends!

Thanks for any further clarification you can provide and any other
tips that might be useful for a beginner.

Thanks.

Disassembly of one of these is probably not for most beginners. The
connectors I'm talking about are for a fairly large white flat cable, about
2 1/2 to 3 inches wide and about the thickness of a couple sheets of paper.
It connects the logic functions etc from the front pc board to the "main" pc
board on the right side of the unit.

Mark Z.

 

[ian field]

"Art" <plotsligt@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:7Oqdna6B4dW2XvbZnZ2dnUVZ_tednZ2d@comcast.com...

Also resolder theconnections of the LOPT, H-Driver Transformer, and Driver
Transistor. Seen way too many of their sets with funky solder conections
around those areas. Loss of drive can cause the output to blow.

That's lead free solder for you! Since its introduction reliability has
plummeted so far that some 5x as much electrical equipment is going into
landfill!!!

Lead was mined from the earth in the first place, and that's eventually
where itends up back. Just like the run off rain and the weather washes from
lead roofing and the pellets from 12bore guns used for bloodsports - which
the brain-dead beaurocrats seem to have overlooked!!!

 

[ian field]

"Jason D." <sparklemagicdust@aim.com> wrote in message
news:446bdc8e.702733578@news1.on.sympatico.ca...

On Tue, 16 May 2006 23:02:28 GMT, "ian field" <dai.ode@ntlworld.com
wrote:


"sigmma" <sigmma.27wmvv@diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:sigmma.27wmvv@diybanter.com...

sigmma

Replace the H-transistor, but do not solder the collector terminal - route
this via a 60W bulb which will limit the current if the LOPT has shorted
turns. If this arrangement fails to develop a voltage across the LOPT
primary - don't despair, it could be a S/C rectifier for a scan derived
supply, just follow the tracks away from the LOPT and look for diodes to
test. Another common cause of H-transistor failure is the flybak tuning
capacitor - this is often a disc-ceramic type (normally go S/C and
split/burn!) the regular high voltage wound foil types commonly fail O/C
and
allow the peak flyback voltage to exceed the H-transistor's Vceo!

Caution - examine the flyback tuning caps first - the current limiting
lamp
won't protect the transistor from excessive flyback if it fires up!!!


Good question on that HV caps in horizontal circuit, what is the
method of checking them? I have capacitance meter but I know better
not to trust that, cap could fail under load (even instantly) and pass
a cap meter test?

Cheers, Wizard

Given the cost of the H-transistor, test by replacement is probably the
safer option.

 

[Tim Auton]

"ian field" <dai.ode@ntlworld.com> wrote:

"Art" <plotsligt@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:7Oqdna6B4dW2XvbZnZ2dnUVZ_tednZ2d@comcast.com...
Also resolder theconnections of the LOPT, H-Driver Transformer, and Driver
Transistor. Seen way too many of their sets with funky solder conections
around those areas. Loss of drive can cause the output to blow.


That's lead free solder for you! Since its introduction reliability has
plummeted so far that some 5x as much electrical equipment is going into
landfill!!!

Do you have a reference for that figure?


Tim
--
Did I really still have that sig?

 

[Travis Jordan]

Elbeva wrote:

I found this on a bulletin board and decided to try it. A little while

What is a bulletin board?

 

[ian field]

"Tim Auton" <tim.auton@uton.groupSexWithoutTheY> wrote in message
news:f2ap62djjt0f9loc6mu99gcoffofl9oikm@4ax.com...

"ian field" <dai.ode@ntlworld.com> wrote:
"Art" <plotsligt@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:7Oqdna6B4dW2XvbZnZ2dnUVZ_tednZ2d@comcast.com...
Also resolder theconnections of the LOPT, H-Driver Transformer, and
Driver
Transistor. Seen way too many of their sets with funky solder conections
around those areas. Loss of drive can cause the output to blow.


That's lead free solder for you! Since its introduction reliability has
plummeted so far that some 5x as much electrical equipment is going into
landfill!!!

Do you have a reference for that figure?


Tim
--
Did I really still have that sig?

Its just a guess - but I've just been to a refuse container site to get some
salvage parts, they have great steel cages lined up in rows full of scrap
TVs, monitors and other electrical goods, and this is only a small town!!!

 

[nkm490]

Mark D. Zacharias Wrote:

nkm490 wrote:
Mark D. Zacharias Wrote:
"Mark D. Zacharias" spammenot@nonsense.net wrote in message news:...

"tvguy" no@spam.invalid wrote in message
newsmdMf.248293$c31.218947@fe08.news.easynews.com...
I really don`t think sony is going to fix this for free. They can be
a real pain to try to get something from them. You will need to pay
the shipping on this both ways and they will try to sell you a
reconditioned one and take yours as a trade in. I would sugest to try
to find a repairshop in your area where you can take it in to have it
serviced.


Problem is, and I say this as an authorized Sony servicer, the
HCD-GX250
and 450 models are so bad

snip

Update:

It is beginning to appear that cleaning / reseating the front panel
connectors -mainly the big one- may fix these units for their variety
of
unusual problems (no power, front LED blinking, tray cycling, no
audio,
etc). Seems to have fixed a couple lately - but of course they could
still
come back for re-do's. Recommend Caig Red (non-aerosol) - I think
it's the
D-100 - for treating the contacts. Blows my mind that new units with
new,
really, really tight connectors could have these problems, but there
you
are. Requires a major dissassembly to access the connector at the
front
panel side.


Mark Z.

Sorry, but before I start taking the player apart to clean the front
connectors I just wanted to make sure what the front connectors are.
Just to be su The front conectors are the RCA ports (yellow, red,
white) where I would plug a gaming system in?

My particular problem is the system quitting while playing and then
the power LED blinks. After I unplug it and plug it back in it works
again for a random amount of time. Sony's website would lead me to
believe that the system is overheating.

One thing that I have done with this system is extend the speaker
wires so that I can place the speakers on both sides of my basement.
The left speaker wire is about 30 ft long and the right one about 15
ft long. It's worked fine for a year and now this happens about 3
weeks after the extended warranty ends!

Thanks for any further clarification you can provide and any other
tips that might be useful for a beginner.

Thanks.

Disassembly of one of these is probably not for most beginners. The
connectors I'm talking about are for a fairly large white flat cable,
about
2 1/2 to 3 inches wide and about the thickness of a couple sheets of
paper.
It connects the logic functions etc from the front pc board to the
"main" pc
board on the right side of the unit.

Mark Z.

Thanks Mark.

It turns out that the place where I connected the stock speaker wire to
the wire that I bought was not insulated. I soldered it but I didn't
wrap it in electrical tape. When those wires touch and enough power
was getting sent through the lines, the system shorted out and stopped
working. Problem resolved.

Thanks again.
nkm490


--
nkm490

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

nkm490 wrote:

Mark D. Zacharias Wrote:
nkm490 wrote:
Mark D. Zacharias Wrote:
"Mark D. Zacharias" spammenot@nonsense.net wrote in message news:...

"tvguy" no@spam.invalid wrote in message
newsmdMf.248293$c31.218947@fe08.news.easynews.com...
I really don`t think sony is going to fix this for free. They can be
a real pain to try to get something from them. You will need to pay
the shipping on this both ways and they will try to sell you a
reconditioned one and take yours as a trade in. I would sugest to try
to find a repairshop in your area where you can take it in to have it
serviced.


Problem is, and I say this as an authorized Sony servicer, the
HCD-GX250
and 450 models are so bad

snip

Update:

It is beginning to appear that cleaning / reseating the front panel
connectors -mainly the big one- may fix these units for their variety
of
unusual problems (no power, front LED blinking, tray cycling, no
audio,
etc). Seems to have fixed a couple lately - but of course they could
still
come back for re-do's. Recommend Caig Red (non-aerosol) - I think
it's the
D-100 - for treating the contacts. Blows my mind that new units with
new,
really, really tight connectors could have these problems, but there
you
are. Requires a major dissassembly to access the connector at the
front
panel side.


Mark Z.

Sorry, but before I start taking the player apart to clean the front
connectors I just wanted to make sure what the front connectors are.
Just to be su The front conectors are the RCA ports (yellow, red,
white) where I would plug a gaming system in?

My particular problem is the system quitting while playing and then
the power LED blinks. After I unplug it and plug it back in it works
again for a random amount of time. Sony's website would lead me to
believe that the system is overheating.

One thing that I have done with this system is extend the speaker
wires so that I can place the speakers on both sides of my basement.
The left speaker wire is about 30 ft long and the right one about 15
ft long. It's worked fine for a year and now this happens about 3
weeks after the extended warranty ends!

Thanks for any further clarification you can provide and any other
tips that might be useful for a beginner.

Thanks.

Disassembly of one of these is probably not for most beginners. The
connectors I'm talking about are for a fairly large white flat cable,
about
2 1/2 to 3 inches wide and about the thickness of a couple sheets of
paper.
It connects the logic functions etc from the front pc board to the
"main" pc
board on the right side of the unit.

Mark Z.

Thanks Mark.

It turns out that the place where I connected the stock speaker wire
to the wire that I bought was not insulated. I soldered it but I
didn't wrap it in electrical tape. When those wires touch and enough
power was getting sent through the lines, the system shorted out and
stopped working. Problem resolved.

Thanks again.
nkm490

End of problem indeed.
I suppose this is where I'm supposed to make some comment about newbies -
but we've all been there. Best of luck to you in the future. I recommend
component receivers by Yamaha, Onkyo, Sony, Denon. All-in one tabletop type
systems are mostly disposable junk. Do make sure the DVD player is also a
separate unit, so that when it dies you can just replace it separately.


Mark Z.