Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Franc Zabkar]

On 27 Oct 2004 09:58:40 -0700, pcullen@iol.ie (Paul) put finger to
keyboard and composed:

I'm trying to repair an old Denon rotary-wheel tuner. Does anyone know
where I might find the spare part I'm looking for, which is an FM
Decoder IC A3350? Thanks

Try looking for an LA3350. They are available in Australia for about
AU$3.

The (L)A3350 crosses to an NTE1217:
http://www.nteinc.com/specs/1200to1299/pdf/nte1217.pdf


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Colin B.]

CGott <curtgottler@yahoo.com> wrote:

I have many old tubes, and was wondering where to look for what they
are worth. Is there any demand for them?

Check on ebay. If they're common audio amp tubes, you might be able to get
some worthwhile coin for them.

Colin

 

[Phil Nelson]

Depends on the type. Many TV and radio tubes are worth little because
they're still very plentiful. Certain types, such as 1L6 or 45, are in
demand because they're scarce. In the radio market, those two types would go
for a minimum of $20 apiece if NIB. Audiophiles are also on the lookout for
certain types of tubes and will pay a premium for them.

If you make a list, you could send it to Antique Electronic Supply,
http://www.tubesandmore.com/ and see what they would offer you for the lot.

You could also contact the nearest radio collector club and ask for advice.
There's a list of clubs at http://www.antiqueradio.com/clublist.html . Maybe
someone in the club would want to buy the whole lot from you.

Regards,

Phil Nelson

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

KLayton888@aol.com (Ken Layton) writes:

Most of what MCM sold were Gemline (Gem Products). If you have a
Johnstone Supply (www.johnstonesupply.com) branch office in your area
they would probably have those elements.

Thanks to all who replied. I have found several placse that have these
elements at somewhat reasonable prices.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header is ignored.
To contact me, please use the feedback form on the S.E.R FAQ Web sites.

Try also these links:

www.appliancepartsresource.com
www.allapplianceparts.com
www.expertappliance.com
www.appliancemagazine.com
www.american-appliance.com

 

[Lightning]

I read about your problem. I have a 16" green one that is impossible to
find. I called the manufacturer today (Can You Imagine), they no longer
make the size I have nor do they sell just the black box located on the
back of it. I have had mine for about 3 years and it works sporatically. I
believe it is in the switch that turns it on and off, I will be taking it
apart tomorrow to find out. I did find a website that sells the black
boxes for all sizes for $30.00,it is made by the same company that made
ours. If I discover that I can not fix the switch I will be ordering a new
box. Yes they run around $100, the one I have cost the person who gave it
to me $175.00, so I am definately going to fix it. The website that has
the boxes is: www.strattman.com. They have some AWESOME custom made stuff
that I wont even dare to call them and ask for the price. Good luck, I
hope you get yours working becuase they are definately very cool to look
at.

 

[tempus fugit]

Agreed. Especially if they are (or were) used in guitar amps (like old EL34s
or 6L6s). Some guitar players are downright idiotic about the "golden tone"
from older tubes.


"Colin B." <cbigam@somewhereelse.nucleus.com> wrote in message
news:417ffec6_1@news.nucleus.com...

CGott <curtgottler@yahoo.com> wrote:
I have many old tubes, and was wondering where to look for what they
are worth. Is there any demand for them?

Check on ebay. If they're common audio amp tubes, you might be able to get
some worthwhile coin for them.

Colin

---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.783 / Virus Database: 529 - Release Date: 25/10/2004

 

[Fred]

I'm just wondering... if you call this up and get some gal jabbering in
Chinese at you, how do you know she's not just complaining about you not
mowing the lawn or fixing that leaky kitchen faucet -- like you hear at
home?

"Śşźż" <hkconet@tom.com> wrote in message
news:cl8aej$gh4207@imsp212.netvigator.com...
> +86 1368...

 

[Lionel]

Kibo informs me that "Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> stated that:

I'm just wondering... if you call this up and get some gal jabbering in
Chinese at you, how do you know she's not just complaining about you not
mowing the lawn or fixing that leaky kitchen faucet -- like you hear at
home?

The spammer is probably selling the other side of the service to Chinese
women as a 1-900 tech-support service.

--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Deke]

Also, are there any 12V fans running in the area?
They're notoriously noisy, RF wise.

 

[pborkstrom]

Have you ever resolved the issue with the beeps? I have the same beeps,
and I think it has something to do with my expander bar. I actually have
3 different bars, and they ALL beep like that when it's plugged in. I
don't know if I have the wrong model or if I just have a bad port on the
laptop . Please let me know what (if anything you've found!

Regards,

Phil
pborkstrom@fedsig.com

 

[LASERandDVDfan]

Luke Skywalker has badly damaged it, but I think it CAN be repaired.

What do I need?

You need some self-sealing stembolts, an anti-matter phase inducer, some
motivation from tribbles, and a Genesis torpedo.

In other words, get inspired to troll with some Star Trek instead. (Not a
knock on Star Wars. SW is cool, too.) - Reinhart

 

[Mike Diack]

Luke Skywalker has badly damaged it, but I think it CAN be repaired.

What do I need?

Duct tape (has a light side, a dark side & holds the universe together)
M

 

[Asimov]

"James Sweet" bravely wrote to "All" (26 Oct 04 05:20:19)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: Testing solder joint"

JS> From: "James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com>

JS> "Grant" <grogers@lineone.net> wrote in message
JS> news:1098712984.902953.21220@c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Hi all,

I have done some soldering on my gameboy advance and have created a dry
joint, I would like to know if is possible to test a solder joint using
a multimeter if so how and what make is recommended (I don't need
anything fancy).

Thanks
Grant

JS> Just look at it, if it's dry it'll look dull. Don't use lead-free
JS> solder if you can help it, that stuff is crap, even after years of
JS> soldering I still can't make a nice joint with it.

It is possible to test the resistivity of the joint using a milli-ohm
meter. It's may be a hard to find gadget though so one could
alternately inject 1 ampere of current and measure the voltage drop
using the 200mV scale of a dmm. i.e. a 7mV reading equals 7milli-ohms.

The acceptable resistivity of the joint would depend on the amount of
expected current. Generally speaking anything below 50 milli-ohms
would be okay. However, for large currents I'd want less than 10
milli-ohms. i.e. 10 amperes at 10 milli-ohms is 100 milli watt.
An ideal 1 milli-ohm or less might not be easily achieved. However if
the component lead is bent flat over the conductive trace it may be
much closer to zero ohms than if left floating in solder as is common.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... Power is obtained by current meeting resistance

 

[Tom MacIntyre]

On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 00:17:41 GMT, Ken <user@domain.invalid> wrote:

I recently struggled with recovering data from a HD that would not run
CHKDSK from another Win XP boot drive. After having tried many things,
I placed the drive into the freezer for a couple of hours and found that
I could copy some of the data I wished to recover and store it on the
master HD while it was attached as a slave drive. Once the drive warmed
up, I encountered more difficulty in readying additional data.

Encouraged by the data I had been able to recover, I placed the HD back
in the freezer. When I took it out, and this time while insulated by a
plastic bag so that it did not short the electronics, I packed it in ice
and attached it as a slave drive again. This kept the drive cold
longer, and I was able to recover even more data and for a longer period
than the first effort.

To make a long story short, I was able to retrieve 700 MB of data and I
deemed the effort a success. My question is: Why was data able to be
read when the HD was cold and not once it warmed up? Some articles I
have read seemed to attribute this to mechanical reasons related to the
application of cold. I was wondering if it was not more related to the
effect that the cold temperature might have on the semiconductors. That
is it might reduce the internal resistance enough to cause a signal to
be detected where one would not be detected if warm.

Any comments???

I don't know exactly why, but it is an often-recommended method in
cases like yours. It is a common failure type, apparently.

Tom

 

[Jerry G.]

You do not have enough details to even have a clue to what is going on.
The powersupply outputs must be verified. There must also be
verification if the scan generator is putting out, and that there are
the proper supply voltages to the horiz output stage. This is only the
beginning. You will need the proper tools, and some test instruments to
work on the set.

It would be very difficult to troubleshoot the set over emails.

If you or your brother are not experienced at TV servicing, it would be
better for you to give the set out to a repair centre to have it
properly serviced. There are also some very serious safety issues that
must be regarded with servicing TV sets.

--

Jerry G.
======

"digger:" <dgys15397@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:93fb548d.0410230838.28c74eb9@posting.google.com...
Hi Folks,
I have a Sony KV-x2552U which has developed a problem and won't switch
on. When the power switch is depressed there is a loud thump but no
picture. When switching the unit off there is a flash of colour as it
does so.
I do not have any knowledge of tv repair but do have a brother who is
into electronics who could solder etc safely and do the repair for me.
What I need to know if anyone has any experience out there is:

a. is this a common or simple to repair fault or should I just scrap
the unit?

b. If repairable any instructions would be useful.

nb. I do have the schematic diagram of the chassis

Cheers

Wardy

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

<William P.N. Smith> wrote in message
news:4p3ln058j0n4ept11i778t4hig192mg6ur@4ax.com...

"keepcold" <keepcold@comcast.net> wrote:
I have a about 100 different bags of sony factory sealed circuits
used for
repair of tv's dvd players...ect
Most of these bags have like 4 or 5 of the same part..
There are too many part #s to post but if anyone is intrested i will
post
them.... Make me an offer

I'll give you a dollar for all of them.

Pig in a poke, eh? "If you can guess how many chickens I've got in
this bag, I'll give you all five of them."

Why din'tcha say "I'll give you 100 cents for them" and give the guy a
conniption fit when he thought you meant dollars... Or offer him forty
thousand quatloos.

I've got a bunch of 100k full-size pots with a SPST pn/off switch on the
back that I'll trade for them. I have a couple bags, must be over a
hundred. Problem is they're lin, not log taper. What kind of circuit
uses a lin pot with an on/off switch? Tone control? Squelch? What
else?

 

[Ken]

Jim wrote:

2 jobs ago I used to have to repair HD's & sometimes I'd see something like
this.
I would say it's most likely an overheating IC. All you'd need is Freeze
spray (or a can of compressed air upside down) to find the specific chip.
Or if you were like me, just pull a duplicate PCB out of the bin from a
drive that did fail mechanically & try swapping it. Bios chip must be the
same though

(Yes we replaced Lots of dead drives.)

Typically if it's the mechanicalls failing, you get High Pitched noise, or
the Aluminum Case would get Real Hot from the bearings failing.


jim

Jim,

I appreciate your comments, thanks. Perhaps I should have elaborated
more in my original post, but I wanted to keep the post short so as not
to lose readers. Part of the story I did NOT state was that I did
acquire a like drive with the same firmware and substituted the logic
board in an effort to retrieve the data. In this case the logic board
swap made NO difference. The problem was apparently related to the disk
unit which of course has one IC and the mechanics. This leaves us with
the question as to whether it is the impact of the cold on the mechanics
or electronics that caused the temporary improvement? Any opinion??

P.S. No excessive noise made by this HD.

"Ken" <user@domain.invalid> wrote in message
news:Fqhed.748819$Gx4.273692@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...

I recently struggled with recovering data from a HD that would not run
CHKDSK from another Win XP boot drive. After having tried many things,
I placed the drive into the freezer for a couple of hours and found that
I could copy some of the data I wished to recover and store it on the
master HD while it was attached as a slave drive. Once the drive warmed
up, I encountered more difficulty in readying additional data.

Encouraged by the data I had been able to recover, I placed the HD back
in the freezer. When I took it out, and this time while insulated by a
plastic bag so that it did not short the electronics, I packed it in ice
and attached it as a slave drive again. This kept the drive cold
longer, and I was able to recover even more data and for a longer period
than the first effort.

To make a long story short, I was able to retrieve 700 MB of data and I
deemed the effort a success. My question is: Why was data able to be
read when the HD was cold and not once it warmed up? Some articles I
have read seemed to attribute this to mechanical reasons related to the
application of cold. I was wondering if it was not more related to the
effect that the cold temperature might have on the semiconductors. That
is it might reduce the internal resistance enough to cause a signal to
be detected where one would not be detected if warm.

Any comments???

 

[someone]

"Ken" <user@domain.invalid> wrote in message
news:MlZed.26328$OD2.4067@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...

t.hoehler wrote:
Myself, I tend to agree that some connection or the IC inside the disk
was being effected by the cold enough to allow an otherwise weak signal
to be read. It is hard to understand how a mechanical function could be
effected by the cold that would give the same results. However, I am
always willing to learn new things.


Last time I opened a bad hard drive, there was an IC right on the flex
ribbon that goes to the heads. If that is the read / write amplifier,
that's
one component you cannot swap out by changing the pcb. Maybe it was a
thermal problem in that IC. Since you have recovered the data, tear the
cover off that bad boy and take a look see.
Regards,
Tom


I have already done so, and I did not see anything that could be
construed as a bad solder connection. After having listened to all the
postings so far, I tend to lean in the direction of the temperature
having an impact on the conductivity of the IC you mentioned. However,
I am still open to theories as to what the impact of cold has on a HD.
What I think is happening, is that the reading of the disk is improved
by the fact that some analog signals that would not reach the level of
the read amplifier are now accepted where they would not be if at a
higher temp. Just a theory however.

My associate indicated he was one of the first to use this technique. His
theory was the cooling tightened the bearings allowing better
alignment of the RW heads.

someone2

 

[John Fields]

On 29 Oct 2004 08:31:55 -0700, Searcher7@mail.con2.com (Darren Harris)
wrote:

Okay.

Since there doesn't seem to be another way, can anyone refer me to
someone who may be able to build something like what I'm after?

---
What's a "split"?

--
John Fields

 

[NSM]

"Team Goon" <teamgoon@ilovespam.comcast.net> wrote in message
news:S9mdnefjEZZ-HB_cRVn-oA@comcast.com...
| The idiot who was whining about top posting.
| Top posting is the deault.

It's not loved except by the blind who have to listen to pages of crap to
get to the new stuff.

N