Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

James Sweet · Nov 25, 2005

Hiya, thanks for your reply. I only have limited knowledge, and no equipment
to test it. I don't really know any decent technicians in our area. None
that I'd trust anyway! I know most would charge a fee just to look at it! I
have to be realistic, and think that I'd only get Ł50 - Ł60 if it was
working. It does seem a shame, but I think it might be going to the dump! My
new TV turns up tomorrow, so I need to make some space!

Matthew Long

See if anyone will take it for free to fix it and use it themself. If
you have no test equipment there's really no hope of fixing it, there's
got to be a decent tech in the area, sure they'll charge to look at it
but they'll fix it too.

~Intruder~ · Nov 25, 2005

Wolfgang Wildeblood wrote:

Broadcasters have their transmitters at unmanned locations miles remote
from where they are controlled. How does the signal get from the studio
to the transmitter? How can I hack into this signal en route and
replace it with an alternative signal of my choosing?

... *hypothetically*.

*hypothetically*

I dont think you need to tap into their signal en route. You just need
a transmitter of your own, (say on the back of a truck), and you
transmit your programme at the same frequencies (channels) the
commercial stations transmit at.

Where ever your signal is stronger than theirs, your programme will
override theirs.

Reginald P · Nov 25, 2005

~Intruder~ wrote:

Wolfgang Wildeblood wrote:

Broadcasters have their transmitters at unmanned locations miles remote
from where they are controlled. How does the signal get from the studio
to the transmitter? How can I hack into this signal en route and
replace it with an alternative signal of my choosing?

... *hypothetically*.

*hypothetically*

I dont think you need to tap into their signal en route. You just need
a transmitter of your own, (say on the back of a truck), and you
transmit your programme at the same frequencies (channels) the
commercial stations transmit at.

Where ever your signal is stronger than theirs, your programme will
override theirs.

wrong .

--- ylferiF --- · Nov 25, 2005

"Reginald P" <Reggy@Hanky-Bannister.co.uk> wrote in message
news:438780f8$0$13320$61c65585@un-2park-reader-01.sydney.pipenetworks.com.au...

~Intruder~ wrote:
Wolfgang Wildeblood wrote:

Broadcasters have their transmitters at unmanned locations miles remote
from where they are controlled. How does the signal get from the studio
to the transmitter? How can I hack into this signal en route and
replace it with an alternative signal of my choosing?

... *hypothetically*.

*hypothetically*

I dont think you need to tap into their signal en route. You just need
a transmitter of your own, (say on the back of a truck), and you
transmit your programme at the same frequencies (channels) the
commercial stations transmit at.

Where ever your signal is stronger than theirs, your programme will
override theirs.

wrong .

Not necessarily. It'd probably work if he had a 1MW Tx.

Winfield Hill · Nov 26, 2005

Jim Thompson wrote...

On 25 Nov 2005 06:12:52 -0800, Winfield Hill
Winfield_member@newsguy.com> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote...

BTW: http://www.repairclinic.com

Hmm, repairing my furnace, but the appliance Repair Clinic
folks don't show those in their list.

My forced-air furnace appears to need a new blower-motor
thermostat, which I've discovered the industry calls a
snap disc fan control. Hah, no wonder I couldn't find it
with Google!

I'm off to explore for a plumbing and heating distributor
that'll sell to the general public, perhaps F. W. Webb?

Win, Google on...

switch OR thermostat "fan limit"

OK, except they reserve the word thermostat for the wall-mounted
unit. Anyway, I had quickly gotten the correct name (fan control),
complete with data sheets from two manufacturers, off the web.
My problem was finding a supplier with one in stock. I finally
settled for a snap disc ($12) rated at a higher temperature, and
installed same.

BTDT back when my previous house had a natural gas furnace.

It turns on the fan when the bonnet temperature warms up, preventing
blowing cold air; and likewise "over-runs" until the bonnet cools.

When mine failed I simply jumpered it until I got the part.

Note: they call it a heat exchanger.

With the new part in place I learned my original one was fine.

The symptom is first that the blower starts and stops repeatedly
for a few minutes after the burner starts running, before it's
hot enough to go continuously (which can mean the fan thermostat
temp is too high), and second the blower fan blips on four times
in five minutes after the burner stops running, (which can mean
the fan thermostat temp is too low - it should cycle only once).
Obviously it cannot both be too high and too low, but I reasoned
it might have lost its hysteresis. However, after observing the
same symptom with a new thermostat that obviously can't be it.

Now I think the fan blower thermostat is fine, and perhaps the
problem is the heat-exchanger is simply too dirty, despite the
furnace being "cleaned" just a few months ago. The dirt on the
control assembly makes me wonder if this part of the furnace
hasn't been cleaned in years, perhaps has never been cleaned?
But aren't they supposed to check the heat exchanger for leaks?

I'm also eying those nice Honeywell thermostats, er, excuse me,
controls, with independent adjustable high and low temp on/off
setpoints. I'm also thinking of instrumenting the whole mess,
duct and flue temps, etc., to evaluate its performance.

--
Thanks,
- Win

Fred Bloggs · Nov 26, 2005

Winfield Hill wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote...

On 25 Nov 2005 06:12:52 -0800, Winfield Hill
Winfield_member@newsguy.com> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote...

BTW: http://www.repairclinic.com

Hmm, repairing my furnace, but the appliance Repair Clinic
folks don't show those in their list.

My forced-air furnace appears to need a new blower-motor
thermostat, which I've discovered the industry calls a
snap disc fan control. Hah, no wonder I couldn't find it
with Google!

I'm off to explore for a plumbing and heating distributor
that'll sell to the general public, perhaps F. W. Webb?

Win, Google on...

switch OR thermostat "fan limit"

OK, except they reserve the word thermostat for the wall-mounted
unit. Anyway, I had quickly gotten the correct name (fan control),
complete with data sheets from two manufacturers, off the web.
My problem was finding a supplier with one in stock. I finally
settled for a snap disc ($12) rated at a higher temperature, and
installed same.

BTDT back when my previous house had a natural gas furnace.

It turns on the fan when the bonnet temperature warms up, preventing
blowing cold air; and likewise "over-runs" until the bonnet cools.

When mine failed I simply jumpered it until I got the part.

Note: they call it a heat exchanger.

With the new part in place I learned my original one was fine.

The symptom is first that the blower starts and stops repeatedly
for a few minutes after the burner starts running, before it's
hot enough to go continuously (which can mean the fan thermostat
temp is too high), and second the blower fan blips on four times
in five minutes after the burner stops running, (which can mean
the fan thermostat temp is too low - it should cycle only once).
Obviously it cannot both be too high and too low, but I reasoned
it might have lost its hysteresis. However, after observing the
same symptom with a new thermostat that obviously can't be it.

Now I think the fan blower thermostat is fine, and perhaps the
problem is the heat-exchanger is simply too dirty, despite the
furnace being "cleaned" just a few months ago. The dirt on the
control assembly makes me wonder if this part of the furnace
hasn't been cleaned in years, perhaps has never been cleaned?
But aren't they supposed to check the heat exchanger for leaks?

I'm also eying those nice Honeywell thermostats, er, excuse me,
controls, with independent adjustable high and low temp on/off
setpoints. I'm also thinking of instrumenting the whole mess,
duct and flue temps, etc., to evaluate its performance.

It is unlikely the fan control consists of a single snap disc. It sounds
like you replaced the safety cutout, a part that kills the furnace at
excessively high temperatures, usually 60oF above normal, and is not
really designed to be exercised on a regular basis. You want to look for
a fan relay control center type of module, it will have a dial for
cut-in and cut-out temperatures- just follow the wires from the blower.
See the link for some examples:
http://arnoldservice.com/fan_blower_controls.htm . Then you want to copy
down manu name and p/n on the control, call any of these people on the
web and get them to cross it. It is also possible that your blower has
not switched to low speed- for heating in an AC/Heat combo unit- and
this will cause the control to short cycle in some cases.

--user-- · Nov 26, 2005

"Reginald P" <Reggy@Hanky-Bannister.co.uk> wrote in message
news:438780f8$0$13320$61c65585@un-2park-reader-01.sydney.pipenetworks.com.au...

~Intruder~ wrote:
Wolfgang Wildeblood wrote:

Broadcasters have their transmitters at unmanned locations miles remote
from where they are controlled. How does the signal get from the studio
to the transmitter? How can I hack into this signal en route and
replace it with an alternative signal of my choosing?

... *hypothetically*.

*hypothetically*

I dont think you need to tap into their signal en route. You just need
a transmitter of your own, (say on the back of a truck), and you
transmit your programme at the same frequencies (channels) the
commercial stations transmit at.

Where ever your signal is stronger than theirs, your programme will
override theirs.

wrong .

Your wrong, he's right.

David Maynard · Nov 26, 2005

Mxsmanic wrote:

David Maynard writes:

No wonder HAL went a bit loopy

IBM was a good company in its time. Like so many computer companies,
it first developed problems with marketing and management, and these
eventually contaminated engineering departments. It's depressing to
think how many major mistakes in managing computer companies have been
driven by marketing and sales decisions. As one of a trillion
examples, just look at Intel's marketing-driven decision to pursue
inferior microprocessor architectures just so that it could run chips
at faster clock speeds (thereby satisfying clueless marketroids with
higher and higher GHz numbers).

And it's a shame how many companies have been ruined by letting engineering
make the decisions. But those don't usually get large enough to easily notice.

Mxsmanic · Nov 26, 2005

David Maynard writes:

And it's a shame how many companies have been ruined by letting engineering
make the decisions.

Companies like Hewlett-Packard seem to have done well with engineers
at the helm.

--
Transpose mxsmanic and gmail to reach me by e-mail.

Jim Thompson · Nov 26, 2005

On Sat, 26 Nov 2005 02:47:37 GMT, Fred Bloggs <nospam@nospam.com>
wrote:

Winfield Hill wrote:
Jim Thompson wrote...

On 25 Nov 2005 06:12:52 -0800, Winfield Hill
Winfield_member@newsguy.com> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote...

BTW: http://www.repairclinic.com

Hmm, repairing my furnace, but the appliance Repair Clinic
folks don't show those in their list.

My forced-air furnace appears to need a new blower-motor
thermostat, which I've discovered the industry calls a
snap disc fan control. Hah, no wonder I couldn't find it
with Google!

I'm off to explore for a plumbing and heating distributor
that'll sell to the general public, perhaps F. W. Webb?

Win, Google on...

switch OR thermostat "fan limit"

OK, except they reserve the word thermostat for the wall-mounted
unit. Anyway, I had quickly gotten the correct name (fan control),
complete with data sheets from two manufacturers, off the web.
My problem was finding a supplier with one in stock. I finally
settled for a snap disc ($12) rated at a higher temperature, and
installed same.

BTDT back when my previous house had a natural gas furnace.

It turns on the fan when the bonnet temperature warms up, preventing
blowing cold air; and likewise "over-runs" until the bonnet cools.

When mine failed I simply jumpered it until I got the part.

Note: they call it a heat exchanger.

With the new part in place I learned my original one was fine.

The symptom is first that the blower starts and stops repeatedly
for a few minutes after the burner starts running, before it's
hot enough to go continuously (which can mean the fan thermostat
temp is too high), and second the blower fan blips on four times
in five minutes after the burner stops running, (which can mean
the fan thermostat temp is too low - it should cycle only once).
Obviously it cannot both be too high and too low, but I reasoned
it might have lost its hysteresis. However, after observing the
same symptom with a new thermostat that obviously can't be it.

Now I think the fan blower thermostat is fine, and perhaps the
problem is the heat-exchanger is simply too dirty, despite the
furnace being "cleaned" just a few months ago. The dirt on the
control assembly makes me wonder if this part of the furnace
hasn't been cleaned in years, perhaps has never been cleaned?
But aren't they supposed to check the heat exchanger for leaks?

I'm also eying those nice Honeywell thermostats, er, excuse me,
controls, with independent adjustable high and low temp on/off
setpoints. I'm also thinking of instrumenting the whole mess,
duct and flue temps, etc., to evaluate its performance.

It is unlikely the fan control consists of a single snap disc. It sounds
like you replaced the safety cutout, a part that kills the furnace at
excessively high temperatures, usually 60oF above normal, and is not
really designed to be exercised on a regular basis. You want to look for
a fan relay control center type of module, it will have a dial for
cut-in and cut-out temperatures- just follow the wires from the blower.
See the link for some examples:
http://arnoldservice.com/fan_blower_controls.htm . Then you want to copy
down manu name and p/n on the control, call any of these people on the
web and get them to cross it. It is also possible that your blower has
not switched to low speed- for heating in an AC/Heat combo unit- and
this will cause the control to short cycle in some cases.

Yep. Sounds like Win hasn't ever had to repair/maintain his furnace
before.

The fan limit switch/thermostat certainly isn't the snap disc.

And he doesn't seem to understand "bonnet" ;-)

Fan speed usually is a relay that switches motor windings and should
be controlled by the "heat/cool" flip-switch on the (wall) thermostat.
Maybe that's defective or mis-wired as well?

He speaks of "dirty". Does he understand that the burners lift right
out for cleaning. Sometimes even the heat exchange baffles do also.

If he has dirty ductwork he has a very hazardous condition on his
hands.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice

480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax

Winfield Hill · Nov 26, 2005

Fred Bloggs wrote...

Winfield Hill wrote:
With the new part in place I learned my original one was fine.

The symptom is first that the blower starts and stops repeatedly
for a few minutes after the burner starts running, before it's
hot enough to go continuously (which can mean the fan thermostat
temp is too high), and second the blower fan blips on four times
in five minutes after the burner stops running, (which can mean
the fan thermostat temp is too low - it should cycle only once).
Obviously it cannot both be too high and too low, but I reasoned
it might have lost its hysteresis. However, after observing the
same symptom with a new thermostat that obviously can't be it.

Now I think the fan blower thermostat is fine, and perhaps the
problem is the heat-exchanger is simply too dirty, despite the
furnace being "cleaned" just a few months ago. The dirt on the
control assembly makes me wonder if this part of the furnace
hasn't been cleaned in years, perhaps has never been cleaned?
But aren't they supposed to check the heat exchanger for leaks?

I'm also eying those nice Honeywell thermostats, er, excuse me,
controls, with independent adjustable high and low temp on/off
setpoints. I'm also thinking of instrumenting the whole mess,
duct and flue temps, etc., to evaluate its performance.

It is unlikely the fan control consists of a single snap disc.
It sounds like you replaced the safety cutout, a part that kills
the furnace at excessively high temperatures, usually 60oF above
normal, and is not really designed to be exercised on a regular
basis.

No, that's the "limit control" (next to the fan control), which
I assume was OK and didn't replace. Indeed, I've never observed
the burner to stop except when the thermostat is satisfied.

Sorry fellows, I did indeed replace the "fan control" - with an
adjustable version, and as a result observed the expected start-up
changes as I adjusted its temperature.

You want to look for a fan relay control center type of module,
it will have a dial for cut-in and cut-out temperatures- just
follow the wires from the blower. See the link for some examples:
http://arnoldservice.com/fan_blower_controls.htm

Hah, I've been admiring those components and others like them on
the web. My poor HVAC system (stupid cheap builders!) has none
of that stuff (plus, what I see and described matches the simple
schematic in the HVAC installation manual). It doesn't sport any
of the nice features offered by the various items on those pages.
No separate blower fan ON and OFF setpoints, no air-handler time
delay, etc., etc. :>(

It is also possible that your blower has not switched to low
speed- for heating in an AC/Heat combo unit- and this will cause
the control to short cycle in some cases.

That's something I hadn't thought of, although the blower sounds
like it did last month before the new problem, etc., IIRC. But
that's certainly worth checking.

--
Thanks,
- Win

James Sweet · Nov 26, 2005

Jim Thompson wrote:

On Sat, 26 Nov 2005 02:47:37 GMT, Fred Bloggs <nospam@nospam.com
wrote:

Winfield Hill wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote...

On 25 Nov 2005 06:12:52 -0800, Winfield Hill
Winfield_member@newsguy.com> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote...

BTW: http://www.repairclinic.com

Hmm, repairing my furnace, but the appliance Repair Clinic
folks don't show those in their list.

My forced-air furnace appears to need a new blower-motor
thermostat, which I've discovered the industry calls a
snap disc fan control. Hah, no wonder I couldn't find it
with Google!

I'm off to explore for a plumbing and heating distributor
that'll sell to the general public, perhaps F. W. Webb?

Win, Google on...

switch OR thermostat "fan limit"

OK, except they reserve the word thermostat for the wall-mounted
unit. Anyway, I had quickly gotten the correct name (fan control),
complete with data sheets from two manufacturers, off the web.
My problem was finding a supplier with one in stock. I finally
settled for a snap disc ($12) rated at a higher temperature, and
installed same.

BTDT back when my previous house had a natural gas furnace.

It turns on the fan when the bonnet temperature warms up, preventing
blowing cold air; and likewise "over-runs" until the bonnet cools.

When mine failed I simply jumpered it until I got the part.

Note: they call it a heat exchanger.

With the new part in place I learned my original one was fine.

The symptom is first that the blower starts and stops repeatedly
for a few minutes after the burner starts running, before it's
hot enough to go continuously (which can mean the fan thermostat
temp is too high), and second the blower fan blips on four times
in five minutes after the burner stops running, (which can mean
the fan thermostat temp is too low - it should cycle only once).
Obviously it cannot both be too high and too low, but I reasoned
it might have lost its hysteresis. However, after observing the
same symptom with a new thermostat that obviously can't be it.

Now I think the fan blower thermostat is fine, and perhaps the
problem is the heat-exchanger is simply too dirty, despite the
furnace being "cleaned" just a few months ago. The dirt on the
control assembly makes me wonder if this part of the furnace
hasn't been cleaned in years, perhaps has never been cleaned?
But aren't they supposed to check the heat exchanger for leaks?

I'm also eying those nice Honeywell thermostats, er, excuse me,
controls, with independent adjustable high and low temp on/off
setpoints. I'm also thinking of instrumenting the whole mess,
duct and flue temps, etc., to evaluate its performance.

It is unlikely the fan control consists of a single snap disc. It sounds
like you replaced the safety cutout, a part that kills the furnace at
excessively high temperatures, usually 60oF above normal, and is not
really designed to be exercised on a regular basis. You want to look for
a fan relay control center type of module, it will have a dial for
cut-in and cut-out temperatures- just follow the wires from the blower.
See the link for some examples:
http://arnoldservice.com/fan_blower_controls.htm . Then you want to copy
down manu name and p/n on the control, call any of these people on the
web and get them to cross it. It is also possible that your blower has
not switched to low speed- for heating in an AC/Heat combo unit- and
this will cause the control to short cycle in some cases.

My old furnace was setup that way, it had a Klixon thermostat disc on
the heat exchanger that controlled the fan, and then a thermal fuse a
bit higher up that would open if it got too hot and shut down the whole
unit. It was built in 1977 so things may have changed, I haven't done a
lot of poking around in my new one but it's substantially more complex.

Fred Bloggs · Nov 26, 2005

James Sweet wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:

On Sat, 26 Nov 2005 02:47:37 GMT, Fred Bloggs <nospam@nospam.com
wrote:

Winfield Hill wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote...

On 25 Nov 2005 06:12:52 -0800, Winfield Hill
Winfield_member@newsguy.com> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote...

BTW: http://www.repairclinic.com

Hmm, repairing my furnace, but the appliance Repair Clinic
folks don't show those in their list.
My forced-air furnace appears to need a new blower-motor
thermostat, which I've discovered the industry calls a
snap disc fan control. Hah, no wonder I couldn't find it
with Google!
I'm off to explore for a plumbing and heating distributor
that'll sell to the general public, perhaps F. W. Webb?

Win, Google on...

switch OR thermostat "fan limit"

OK, except they reserve the word thermostat for the wall-mounted
unit. Anyway, I had quickly gotten the correct name (fan control),
complete with data sheets from two manufacturers, off the web. My
problem was finding a supplier with one in stock. I finally
settled for a snap disc ($12) rated at a higher temperature, and
installed same.

BTDT back when my previous house had a natural gas furnace.

It turns on the fan when the bonnet temperature warms up, preventing
blowing cold air; and likewise "over-runs" until the bonnet cools.

When mine failed I simply jumpered it until I got the part.

Note: they call it a heat exchanger.
With the new part in place I learned my original one was fine.

The symptom is first that the blower starts and stops repeatedly
for a few minutes after the burner starts running, before it's
hot enough to go continuously (which can mean the fan thermostat
temp is too high), and second the blower fan blips on four times
in five minutes after the burner stops running, (which can mean
the fan thermostat temp is too low - it should cycle only once).
Obviously it cannot both be too high and too low, but I reasoned
it might have lost its hysteresis. However, after observing the
same symptom with a new thermostat that obviously can't be it.

Now I think the fan blower thermostat is fine, and perhaps the
problem is the heat-exchanger is simply too dirty, despite the
furnace being "cleaned" just a few months ago. The dirt on the
control assembly makes me wonder if this part of the furnace
hasn't been cleaned in years, perhaps has never been cleaned?
But aren't they supposed to check the heat exchanger for leaks?

I'm also eying those nice Honeywell thermostats, er, excuse me,
controls, with independent adjustable high and low temp on/off
setpoints. I'm also thinking of instrumenting the whole mess, duct
and flue temps, etc., to evaluate its performance.

It is unlikely the fan control consists of a single snap disc. It
sounds like you replaced the safety cutout, a part that kills the
furnace at excessively high temperatures, usually 60oF above normal,
and is not really designed to be exercised on a regular basis. You
want to look for a fan relay control center type of module, it will
have a dial for cut-in and cut-out temperatures- just follow the
wires from the blower. See the link for some examples:
http://arnoldservice.com/fan_blower_controls.htm . Then you want to
copy down manu name and p/n on the control, call any of these people
on the web and get them to cross it. It is also possible that your
blower has not switched to low speed- for heating in an AC/Heat combo
unit- and this will cause the control to short cycle in some cases.

My old furnace was setup that way, it had a Klixon thermostat disc on
the heat exchanger that controlled the fan, and then a thermal fuse a
bit higher up that would open if it got too hot and shut down the whole
unit. It was built in 1977 so things may have changed, I haven't done a
lot of poking around in my new one but it's substantially more complex.

KLIXON!!!!!! That's when TI had the market cornered on bimetal snap
discs for every imaginable application- you could even call them for a
special run of *one* if necessary and at no extra charge.

Fred Bloggs · Nov 26, 2005

Winfield Hill wrote:

Fred Bloggs wrote...

Winfield Hill wrote:

With the new part in place I learned my original one was fine.

The symptom is first that the blower starts and stops repeatedly
for a few minutes after the burner starts running, before it's
hot enough to go continuously (which can mean the fan thermostat
temp is too high), and second the blower fan blips on four times
in five minutes after the burner stops running, (which can mean
the fan thermostat temp is too low - it should cycle only once).
Obviously it cannot both be too high and too low, but I reasoned
it might have lost its hysteresis. However, after observing the
same symptom with a new thermostat that obviously can't be it.

Now I think the fan blower thermostat is fine, and perhaps the
problem is the heat-exchanger is simply too dirty, despite the
furnace being "cleaned" just a few months ago. The dirt on the
control assembly makes me wonder if this part of the furnace
hasn't been cleaned in years, perhaps has never been cleaned?
But aren't they supposed to check the heat exchanger for leaks?

I'm also eying those nice Honeywell thermostats, er, excuse me,
controls, with independent adjustable high and low temp on/off
setpoints. I'm also thinking of instrumenting the whole mess,
duct and flue temps, etc., to evaluate its performance.

It is unlikely the fan control consists of a single snap disc.
It sounds like you replaced the safety cutout, a part that kills
the furnace at excessively high temperatures, usually 60oF above
normal, and is not really designed to be exercised on a regular
basis.

No, that's the "limit control" (next to the fan control), which
I assume was OK and didn't replace. Indeed, I've never observed
the burner to stop except when the thermostat is satisfied.

Sorry fellows, I did indeed replace the "fan control" - with an
adjustable version, and as a result observed the expected start-up
changes as I adjusted its temperature.

You want to look for a fan relay control center type of module,
it will have a dial for cut-in and cut-out temperatures- just
follow the wires from the blower. See the link for some examples:
http://arnoldservice.com/fan_blower_controls.htm

Hah, I've been admiring those components and others like them on
the web. My poor HVAC system (stupid cheap builders!) has none
of that stuff (plus, what I see and described matches the simple
schematic in the HVAC installation manual). It doesn't sport any
of the nice features offered by the various items on those pages.
No separate blower fan ON and OFF setpoints, no air-handler time
delay, etc., etc. :>(

It is also possible that your blower has not switched to low
speed- for heating in an AC/Heat combo unit- and this will cause
the control to short cycle in some cases.

That's something I hadn't thought of, although the blower sounds
like it did last month before the new problem, etc., IIRC. But
that's certainly worth checking.

You can clip a voltmeter across the snap disc and verify that is or is
not opening the circuit causing the blips- and if so then you have a
heat exchange problem. If not then the next thing is to clip the
voltmeter on the HEAT ON 24VAC coming back from the thermostat (on the
wall)- this can be jittering but the gas burner valve is too slow of a
response to notice. If you don't have the Fluke type that catches MINs
and MAXs then you can buy a cheap 24VAC panel lamp at home improvement
store- and clip across the circuit to COM- working from where tstat
comes in forward to output side of fan control. You should be able to
see the lamp blip.

bearjuice · Nov 26, 2005

Did you find out what was wrong with your tv. Im having the same problem
with mine. Same kind of tv and its doing the same problem. Please send a
reply so I know what is wrong or how much i might be paying in parts.
thanx

Travis Jordan · Nov 26, 2005

bearjuice wrote:

Did you find out what was wrong with your tv. Im having the same
problem with mine. Same kind of tv and its doing the same problem.
Please send a reply so I know what is wrong or how much i might be
paying in parts. thanx

By any chance was this posted in reply to a message dated sometime in
1996?

I don't think the OP is likely to be waiting around.....

Jasen Betts · Nov 26, 2005

["Followup-To:" header set to sci.electronics.basics.]
On 2005-11-25, Mxsmanic <mxsmanic@gmail.com> wrote:

David Maynard writes:

Ever notice that all the letters in HAL are just one off of IBM?
HAL
IBM

About 35 years ago.

However, nobody has found a way to transform HAL into Microsoft, so
the conspiracy theories died out with the decline of IBM.

The same trick can turn VMS int WNT (Windows NT)....

the way I heard it MS got a bunch of
ex-DEC people who had worked on VMS

Bye.
Jasen

RonKZ650 · Nov 26, 2005

Bad picture tube.

Ray L. Volts · Nov 27, 2005

"Terry Pinnell" <terrypinDELETE@THESEdial.pipex.com> wrote in message
news:st8jo1pq2gp3dsjtsnvv4dpn4fj4son5fp@4ax.com...

My MESH Athlon 1800 PC has a CPU fan and it badly needs replacing.
It's a common 3-pin 12V, 60mm type. Its depth (which BTW never seems
to be included in specs) is about 12mm. That's considerably thinner
than 60mm case fans, and the screw holes are much smaller diameter
too.

After much googling I've so far still not found a replacement UK
source. Can anyone help please?

Neither my nerves nor skills are up to replacing the *heat sink*. I
want to replace only the fan.

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

Fan/sink combinations are pretty cheap lately. To get the fan size you
want, you may have to buy a new combo and use the fan from it. Dunno bout
UK distributors, but Cofan offers a fan by itself that matches your
dimensions:

http://www.cofan-usa.com/New/fans/dc_fans/coreless/60coreless.htm

Terry Pinnell · Nov 27, 2005

"Ray L. Volts" <raylvolts@REMOVECAPSgmail.com> wrote:

Fan/sink combinations are pretty cheap lately. To get the fan size you
want, you may have to buy a new combo and use the fan from it. Dunno bout
UK distributors, but Cofan offers a fan by itself that matches your
dimensions:

http://www.cofan-usa.com/New/fans/dc_fans/coreless/60coreless.htm

That looks perfect, thanks. Now, if only I could find a UK equivalent!

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

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