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If any of you know of a way other than Google Groups to access usenetYou may as well preach that to a pile of rocks, I doubt many people who are
still using google groups are ever gonna figure it out.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Yes, the weird part about this is that before doing any work on theOn 4/16/08 9:59 AM, in article
71f00565-740c-45b5-affc-93fc02458...@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com, "EricM"
ew_m...@hotmail.com> wrote:
On Apr 16, 7:25 am, Heinz Schmitz <HeinzSchm...@gmx.net> wrote:
EricM wrote:
Here's a link to the schematic; after replacing CR1 and CR2A/B with
10 amp 600 V silicon diodes, when the relay closes to enable the 600V
plate voltage, the main power fuse F1 blows. I'm not sure I need
dropping resistors, because the output voltage on the 12.6 and -38
terminals is very close to what it should be. Is there something I'm
missing? http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/4691/1567pscb9.jpg
I'd disconnect the relay (S-1 and VS3) and comfortably check all other
voltages (value, polarity, ripple). If ok, I'd power off and check the
electrolytics in the 600 V circuitry (otoh, if they do not look
exploded, they are probably ok). Then the fault is somewhere else in
the device.
BTW, what is connectors 2 on CR4 and CR5?
Does somebody switch from 8 to 2 at some point?
Regards,
H.
This is also a problem. The original 1N1239 rectifiers only have
three pins on the bottom at locations 4, 6, and 8, and the 'key'.
There is no pin on the device at #2, but the two wires from the relay
switch pole that is NC (until the coil is powered) are tied to #2 the
socket. (It's not connected to chassis ground either, which might be
inferred by the schematic - they're just meaning that two wires are
tied to #2 on the socket, even though there is no pin on the 1N1239 at
that location.) I ordered newer replacements for these from
americanmicrosemiconductor.com - they were the only place on the
internet that had exact replacements for the '1N1239' Sarkes Tarzian
center tapped rectifier. HOWEVER, when the new replacements - that
look much more like a metal envelope vacuum tube than the originals -
they have all pins and are shorter, there's no 600V on the output.
Just a few millivolts of nothing. The newer units must be wired
differently than the originals. The 1N1239 was a replacement for the
5R4 vacuum tube rectifier; I also located another online vendor that
sells 'C-Cap' rectifier replacements and he states that his 5R4
replacement should work. I'm debating whether or not to order some to
test though, since the originals seem to be oddballs of some type.
And essentially what the relay does, is shunt resistor R5, as pins 2
and 8 seem to be looped no matter what position the relay is in. This
one is really a pain - I've never encountered a PS like this one...
All the "relay" does is to complete a low resistance path from the 600 V
voltage source, to the filter caps AFTER a time delay has (gently via 15k)
pre-charged the filter caps.
Disconnect the 600V lead from the PS to the Amp and see which way the
problem is. If the fuse still blows, trouble shoot the PS. You do have a
voltmeter?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ap0-SCwi89UDiscuss
If the site has utility power available, you can use that for times whenIts a bit more complicated than just hooking a generator up to a lamp and
waiting for wind. Uunless you want unreliable variable brightness whenever
mother nature feels like giving it to you.
Think of it this way. You want to operate a 6000W load for say 8 hours,
thats 48kWh of energy you need to store and deliver on demand. So now you
need a battery pack that can hold that much energy and a power converter to
charge it and convert it back to whatever your lamps need (wise to use 12VDC
lamps and avoid an inverter alltogether). If all you wanted was one hour of
12V lighting then that 6000W will need a 500Ah battery and for 8 hours you
need 2000Ah of battery capacity. Thats probably what 2-4 car batteries to
be safe (my guess).
Now you need to be able to charge that battery during the daytime before you
turn the lamps on and any more wind you get at night can reduce that
requirement by a fraction. a 5KW generator running at peak power (quite
breezy) will charge that battery bank in 9.6 hours of continuous wind. a
10kW generator in half the time but requiring more wind force.
I managed to download Grabit beta 1.7.1 and have configured it to readChrisCoaster wrote:
I have a degree in Managment Information Systems - I don't know how to
set up one once I've downloaded it!
What did you download? Each one is different. They all are similar
to what follows:
I still like the old Netscape 4.78 mail and news reader software, AKA
Netscape Communicator, 4.78. It is easy to configure, threads well, and
you can archive messages into folders for future reference. Once you
install and open the program you select 'Edit', 'Preferences' and a new
window opens. You select 'News servers' and 'add'. Type in the name of
the news server and click ok. Then click on 'file' 'subscribe'. A
window will open for your email address from your ISP. Then another
will open for the password for that account.
The NNTP server will give you a list of all the available newsgroups,
in alphabetical order. You can scroll down through the thousands of
names, or use the search feature with 'electronics' to see any newsgroup
with that as part of it's name. Click on the ones you want to use, then
click on 'OK'. After that, all you have to do is select the group you
want to read from the list of groups you are subscribed to, and enjoy.
You can select view: messages: Unread to hide everything you've read.
You can create kill filters per newsgroup, or install Newsproxy to
filter the losers from every newsgroup you read.
--http://improve-usenet.org/index.html
Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
with porn and junk commercial SPAM
If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account:http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm
___________________
Go to the link below and install newsproxy.Michael A. Terrell wrote:
snip
I still like the old Netscape 4.78 mail and news reader software, AKA
Netscape Communicator, 4.78.
snip
You can create kill filters per newsgroup, or install Newsproxy to
filter the losers from every newsgroup you read.
I liked 4.78 too but had to migrate to 7.2 for browser features.
How did you get the filters to do useful work for newsgroups?
The filters in 7.2 only work on 'sender' (not a canonical field),
'subject' and 'date' headers and are essentially useless for
the current state of affairs.
"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:fu6se7$mmk$1@registered.motzarella.org...
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in message
news:a0ac74e4-41e6-480c-a103-51af4bc1d803@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 16, 5:29 pm, "Eric" <nos...@nospam.nnn> wrote:
I am not familiar with "dinked", can you be a bit more specific in
more common English usage.
seconded
I've never heard the word, but context says nicked, dented, dinged,
damaged...
Concur....
It's like trying to pick out a conversation in an AIR-RAID SIREN
FACTORY!!!
Google should have some filter options so we can eliminate at least
some of these advertisements for fake Swiss watches, "Pleather"
suitases and other crap!
-ChrisCoaster
Ken:On Apr 15, 6:16 pm,ChrisCoaster<ckozi...@snet.net> wrote:
It's like trying to pick out a conversation in an AIR-RAID SIREN
FACTORY!!!
Google should have some filter options so we can eliminate at least
some of these advertisements for fake Swiss watches, "Pleather"
suitases and other crap!
-ChrisCoaster
I use the free "Trollkiller" program for Google groups:
http://www.source9.com/trollkiller.html
Works very well for me.
Ken Layton
Olympia, Wash.
______________________________-
I recently installed a DVD drive into my PC. (2 days ago.) Since then,
I get spontaneous power loss periodically - sometimes seconds after
booting, other times after hours of operation. I've tried replacing
the power supply, and I've tried removing all my hardware (other than
RAM), so I'm thinking it must be motherboard related.
Interestingly, trying to turn the machine back on does nothing.
HOWEVER...if I physically unplug the PC, and leave it off for a few
seconds, I then *can* reboot it. Looking inside the case, I notice a
green LED. When this goes out (after unplugging) it signals that I can
now successfully reboot. If I try to reboot before the light goes out
(about a 2 second wait) the reboot fails. I'm assuming the LED is
showing power remaining on the motherboard due to capacitors. I don't
know if that's a hint towards a solution?
Also, when I reboot, most (but not all) of the time the bios has been
reset as well.
Now the questions I've got are:
1) Why? I've installed drives dozens of times, and never had anything
like this.
2) How do I fix it? Presumably a new motherboard will do the trick,
though I'd like to a) confirm that's the cause and b) fix the existing
MB, if at all possible. (Historically, every time I've tried to
replace a MB I've ended up having to replace the entire PC. Apparently
my skills don't lie in that direction!)
Is there any chance I can salvage this board? I have no idea if
replacing the onboard battery, flashing the bios, or any of these
arcane things will do anything to help, or if it's physically broken
and needs a part replaced? A electrician friend tells me he thinks a
capacitor may have gone, but looking at the MB, none of them appear to
be swollen or leaking.
thanks a lot! any advice is appreciated!
you maybe able to tap it in deeper if you can get to it.Anywhere from 9 to 15 volts. At 9 it will run in every other position,
at 15 vdc in the face down position it will still need a nudge.
UCLAN wrote:
Bennett Price > wrote:
I've got a small 12V DC .9 Watt 'muffin' fan (1.75"x1.75"x3/8").
It was the cooler for a video card's processor chip and was
frozen up.
I put a drop of oil into its sleeve bearing and it now runs
reliably - almost. It will start every time as long as it is
not oriented with the open 'face' down. (The open face is the
side in which you can see the bearing). If the open bearing is
down, it sometimes starts and sometimes needs a slight nudge to
get it going.
What's going on? How come? TIA
What voltage are you applying to it?
chances are you have a pressed in race for the bearing.
It's like trying to pick out a conversation in an AIR-RAID SIREN
FACTORY!!!
Google should have some filter options so we can eliminate at least
some of these advertisements for fake Swiss watches, "Pleather"
suitases and other crap!